REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Maintenance, How to/DIY projects => Topic started by: EL TATE on October 03, 2016, 11:48:52 AM
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Yesterday I was leaving to go watch my Hawks thump the Jets, and while leaving the driveway I got frustrated because the new battery I just put in the clicker must have been junk because the garage door wouldn't close. Jumped out to hit the button on the external keypad and huh, same deal. Maybe the battery fairy visited me this week. Didn't think much of it so I just hit the wall control which closed it then grabbed a 9volt on the way home from the game. It would not open with the clicker or the keypad.
Here's the next steps rundown:
Replaced all batteries
Re-set all codes individually
Master re-set all codes, unplugged motor and started from scratch
Ran out to Lowes and bought a replacement universal keypad
Determined that the old keypad, new keypad and all the clickers worked just fine... when standing directly beneath the motor!
Now I'm faced with a dilemma; 10 years on the craftsman 1/2hp unit, I'm sure warranty is up, so do I take it apart and try to find out what's the source of the problem? I'm not familiar with electronic logic boards, but I can read and learn and use a soldering iron. Has anyone run into situations like these before with simple solutions, or do I go get the new 3/4hp Genie unit for $198, or do I hire someone that knows what they're doing for probably close to a couple hundred to come evaluate it?
Any help, experience, insight and/or advice is welcomed and appreciated.
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So the remote openers work when in close proximity to the opener, but not when moved farther away? Sounds like you might have an issue with the antenna or it's connection to the main board.
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I'm going to take the cover off tonight when I get home for a visual, but that seems to be the consensus. it just hangs down and could have been caught on roof racks multiple times. just a little purple wire hanging out like a stereo antenna. my plan was to chase that thing back to eliminate the obvious, but if someone on here's experienced coding problems I'm trying to avoid spending a lot of time an effort in this to wind up replacing it anyway.
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So the remote openers work when in close proximity to the opener, but not when moved farther away? Sounds like you might have an issue with the antenna or it's connection to the main board.
I've found that there can be RF interference in the power supply, so I'm going to run an extension cord to a dedicated outlet to power the unit, and see if I can get extended range on the clicker and the keypad. if that doesn't change anything, I'm going to probably replace the logic board. $89 on Amazon. that saves me the time and trouble of re-setting up the whole system. I'll throw some pics up in case this ever comes up again and keep you posted.
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In my opinion you've spent too much on it already. If obvious issue is not antenna I'd bail on it and replace. Anything more than 25% of the cost of a new one is probably too much to invest.
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How close to a military res are you? Our car door lock fob would not work nor would the garage door opener. Later in the day everything was working once again. When talking with others in the area we were not the only ones with non working stuff. Talked with neighbor who works on the base and he said if the navy was operating some of its toys our remotes could be jammed. I think there jamming stuff worked quite well that day.
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Sounds like one of the safety infrared sensors is misaligned, or blocked by something.
On mine, at certain times of day the sun shines just right at one of the sensors and it doesn't close. I have to get out of the truck and stand in front of the sun to shade the sensor, and hit the remote, get back in and drive off. lol
On one at my old house, the load side of the circuit board burned when a torsion spring broke. Took it apart and soldered it, been fine ever sense.
...but in your case, I'm thinkin' one of the safeties is "trippin".
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In my opinion you've spent too much on it already. If obvious issue is not antenna I'd bail on it and replace. Anything more than 25% of the cost of a new one is probably too much to invest.
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X2
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I'm near Whidbey naval air station, in their flight path. no activity from them sunday or yesterday, and I was able to replicate the issue and got some minor changes. I ran an extension to an outlet that was not on the same breaker as the garage and got about 3 more feet of distance from the unit where the keypad and clicker would actuate the door, but once closed it would not receive signal through the door. I have found on a couple forums that the logic boards often go out due to the constant vibrations and they are about $85 bucks and simple plug and play replacement. at half the cost of a new unit and 1/4 of the time for installation, am I taking the smart, or easy way out?
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Easy & potentially less or more expensive if it fixes the problem. With me I have bad luck so I figure if I spent the $85 it won't fix the problem. Then I'll spend another couple hundred probably just buying a new one at that point. Or let's say you fix it & a month later another hundred dollar part goes out. At that point you would have been ahead with new unit. But that's my logic & for the record I have a new motor in a jeep going into a shop to get fixed today so what do I know.... ::)
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Didn't want to pour salt on the wound Shawn. Hope they get that straightened out for you. I'm going to risk it and order up the logic board. i'll post up the results, good or bad. I have your luck too; last year it was the door spring that I custom ordered based on their requirements but still wound up with the wrong spring.
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Correct, so the right answer is whatever you decide on that day at that time.
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The last time I had issues with a garage door opener, I bought a new one that was the same brand as the existing one. Installed only the main "box" component. I reused the old track, belt and sensors. So my install time was pretty minimal and I still have the spare new extra parts. If your new replacement unit is $200 and your new circuit board is $85. Then you have to decide if it's worth $125 for the risk of it not working. Whereas the entire new unit should have some sort of warranty.
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ugh~stop making sense already!
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The last time I had issues with a garage door opener, I bought a new one that was the same brand as the existing one. Installed only the main "box" component. I reused the old track, belt and sensors. So my install time was pretty minimal and I still have the spare new extra parts. If your new replacement unit is $200 and your new circuit board is $85. Then you have to decide if it's worth $125 for the risk of it not working. Whereas the entire new unit should have some sort of warranty.
Dunno if you already ordered the board or not but I really like THIS^^^^ answer....spare parts are good to have
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Liftmaster 8500,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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oooooh!
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I think we're going that route JR. can tie it into our security system too. good find!
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They are a little cheaper on ebay plus you get battery backup!
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So you're saying the P-3's on final still have their hammers on?
;)
Now how would I know anything about that...?
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how about a translation, pilot??
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Why would the Orion come up on this?
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how about because it suddenly started working again, without any issues. half a block away I'm opening with the clicker in the car. making sure everyone has door keys, but for now, status quo
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don is talking about the electronic counter measures that are used on aircraft
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So "hammer" equals counter measures. Makes more sense now. Thanks Nate
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Thank you Nate. At least one of you Army guys knows English.
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no worries guys.
those things are nasty when turned on
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Yes countermeasures which include jammers, not hammers (spell checker was in auto!!)
Will shut down anything not heavily shielded and grounded
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This is what I'm up against, direct flight line overhead.
"NAS Whidbey Island is the premier naval aviation installation in the Pacific Northwest and home of all Navy tactical electronic attack squadrons flying the EA-18G Growler. Adding to the depth and capability of the air station are four P-3 Orion Maritime Patrol squadrons and two Fleet Reconnaissance squadrons flying the EP-3E Aries."
Oh, and found out they were doing electronic warfare training oct 6 the the 9th...
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There ya go!