Author Topic: Power steering leak? (Read 9271 times)

Sammconn · « **on:** August 25, 2015, 08:18:51 PM »

My truck is starting to show her age. 196xxx miles on the clock now.
I've developed a power steering leak.
Replaced the hoses a while back as they were done.
The last couple weeks been noticing little puddles.
So while I'm out in the land of parts a plenty (the city) I figgered I'd have a look.
Did a couple glow plugs while everything was out.

Thought it was a loose line fitting, nope. Now it's been leaking so long the layer of mud is pretty thick. Fittings were all nice and tight, looks like it may be the steering box?

I'm going to have to clean it all up when I get home and track it down, but is there a seal that goes?
Ken or someone may know, or new steering box time? I've accepted the fact I'm going to need to throw money at this to keep it on the road, and that is not the issue, just don't need to throw good money away if a $5 seal will fix it.

I'll post up some pics later on. Didn't have phone handy when buried in grease and muck.

KensAuto · « **Reply #1 on:** August 25, 2015, 08:51:23 PM »

The pitman seal is the first to go, but the top (sector shaft) is usually right behind. A reman box might be the smart move.
...then start saving for a new hydroboost. It seems like when one thing starts leakin, it dominos.

Sammconn · « **Reply #2 on:** August 25, 2015, 10:31:06 PM »

Been looking at both Ken. The pitman seal still looked ok.
With the intercooler tube out I could see the sector shaft, which was wet.
Now I had a big ole spill the other day filling back up, so I need to make clean and dry to find he source.
Thanks for the heads up on the HB as well.
How about PS pump life?

KensAuto · « **Reply #3 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:29:45 AM »

They tend to start leaking at about 150k+. I've also seen quite a few just shear the shaft with no warning.

Sammconn · « **Reply #4 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:49:56 AM »

Well then I guess I need to gather some parts.

EL TATE · « **Reply #5 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:58:41 AM »

Lots of horror story posts on the dmax forum about power steering pump issues. sudden loss of power steering and breaks due to shearing of pump shafts. I would inspect very carefully, as it doesn't seem to take much.

KensAuto · « **Reply #6 on:** August 26, 2015, 12:15:09 PM »

The ones I've seen shear, have been internal....no previous noise, usually no rattle, just failed all at once. Weird...the older versions of that pump (pre 99) never seemed to have shearing issues (in my experience anyways).

Sammconn · « **Reply #7 on:** August 26, 2015, 01:03:13 PM »

Well I lived the loss of power steering and brakes on day on the 'road'.
Mustn't have tightened one of the new lines enough. Loosened up dumped the oil and there I was.
This was where the oils addition to Don's supplies post came from.

So the pump has been stressed with the no oil situation.
Is one brand better than another?
I read of all kinds of issues with replacements too.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 26, 2015, 01:45:32 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 26, 2015, 12:15:09 PM

The ones I've seen shear, have been internal....no previous noise, usually no rattle, just failed all at once. Weird...the older versions of that pump (pre 99) never seemed to have shearing issues (in my experience anyways).

Later versions sourced from the new plant in the China???

EL TATE · « **Reply #9 on:** September 16, 2015, 10:26:38 AM »

looks like all this power steering talk has a viral effect. i'll be replacing my low pressure line this weekend. started leaking last weekend on our camping trip but I had some trouble backing up the trailer and thought I had over-cranked the steering and made it burp. Nope, it's at the factory crimp on the driver's side line coming from the hydroboost unit to the pump.

Nate · « **Reply #10 on:** September 16, 2015, 10:57:55 AM »

if your gonna replace 1, you may want to replace the other one as well and do a complete flush of the system?

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/9081-how-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html

and just for S&G

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/149770-how-hydroboost-rebuild-leak-fix-discussion.html

EL TATE · « **Reply #11 on:** September 16, 2015, 12:05:22 PM »

thanks Nate, read them both yesterday when looking up my parts:-) other line was done right before I bought the truck. I guess the other line wasn't rusted "enough" to warrant replacement.

Sammconn · « **Reply #12 on:** May 02, 2016, 09:37:30 PM »

So, since I started this wayyyy back whenever, seems like a fitting place to conclude this saga.

We'll start by playing parts!

Here we have two boxes and a pail full of undersized Napa junk.
Got the wrong one first, then had another wrong one shipped. Grrrr.

Buddy said give up on them and get it from gmparts online.

So I did. They showed up today.

And for several hundred less, new steering stabilizer as well.

Now, here's the comparo shot. Seems like our dear friends at Napa are trying to pass half ton parts off for the 2500's.

I think it speaks for itself which is which...

To be continued soon.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 03, 2016, 07:57:45 AM »

The difference is HUGE!

Sammconn · « **Reply #14 on:** May 04, 2016, 11:48:36 PM »

Ok, so it's supposed to snow again tomorrow, so it was time to get off my butt and change out that steering box, again.

Jacked up stands in and skid plates off.

Then wheel off fender liner stripped and intercooler pipe out of the way.

Next split the steering shaft off the intermediate shaft and removed from the box.

Sammconn · « **Reply #15 on:** May 04, 2016, 11:54:02 PM »

Then loosened and removed the lines from the box. Tomane the required real estate for removal of the box I took the clip off the crossmember and undid the clip on the fan shroud to get the lines outside the frame.

Then split the pitman arm off of the steering. My pickle fork was too small and a big hammer came to the party.

Out with the three steering box bolts and its loose.

Holding your tongue the right way and eating four pounds of oil impregnated muck the box and arm will come out together.

Sammconn · « **Reply #16 on:** May 04, 2016, 11:57:58 PM »

One super oily mess. It was the sector shaft seal that was the culprit on this one.
A lot of the oil was from me topping up also, aim was not good and the mess was there so oh well happened a few times.

Hey look at this...the parts are right this time!

Sammconn · « **Reply #17 on:** May 05, 2016, 12:00:36 AM »

For the record the pitman arm nut is 1 5/16", and I had to go to work to do it. Set in garage only goes to 1 1/4" and 32mm.

So arm installed with a road trip.

Added some undercoating to the bare metal of the pitman arm.

Sammconn · « **Reply #18 on:** May 05, 2016, 12:05:52 AM »

I let the undercoating set up while I tried to get the steering stabilizer off.
I need a better pickle fork or another method. Couldn't budge the dang thing.

So I moved to some grease removal. Two cans of engine degreaser later and I might get a bit of the mess gone. It's pretty thick.

Pushed the new box up and in and reconnected the pitman arm and mount bolts.
Then even tough I replaced them a few days ago, I replaced the O-rings on the power steering lines.

Slapped everything else back on topped up the PS oil and did a bleed on the jack stands.
Hopefully I am done with this for a while.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 05, 2016, 08:45:34 AM »

Good how-to going on here Sam

I like how you are maintaining this well used example of a modern truck and operating it in one of the most extreme environments of anyone on this site.

My truck sees weekly off road antics down at "The Farm", but with that the undercarriage has never been that dirty. Yours shows the conditions you operate in and a good testament to the durability of the design

Sammconn · « **Reply #20 on:** May 05, 2016, 11:04:43 AM »

Yeah it's pretty ugly under there in spots.
As ugly and messy as it all is, it's seemingly surface rust at most.

I have this delusion to pull the box and lift the cab a bit to do some PM and dirt removal.
The engine degreaser is going to sit a bit and with any luck next wash will have that area clean and I'll slather some undercoating back on.

I'm truly amazed that I still have paint on the underside of the cab.

Farmer Jon · « **Reply #21 on:** May 14, 2016, 06:44:24 AM »

Quote from: nmeyer414 on September 16, 2015, 10:57:55 AM

if your gonna replace 1, you may want to replace the other one as well and do a complete flush of the system?

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/9081-how-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html

and just for S&G

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/149770-how-hydroboost-rebuild-leak-fix-discussion.html

A complete flush of the system is very good advice for anyone reading this. I did mine at 100k I could not believe how dirty the power steering fluid was. It's really easy. Get a gallon of ps fluid and it only takes a half hour or 2 beers with of time.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk

Sammconn · « **Reply #22 on:** May 14, 2016, 01:22:12 PM »

Very true words Jon.

I couldn't believe the difference the first time I changed it.
This time it was all new oil in the system anyway. Lol.

Sammconn · « **Reply #23 on:** May 15, 2017, 09:19:30 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 26, 2015, 12:15:09 PM

The ones I've seen shear, have been internal....no previous noise, usually no rattle, just failed all at once. Weird...the older versions of that pump (pre 99) never seemed to have shearing issues (in my experience anyways).

So Ken, does it make a noise when it breaks?

Had to replace the steering gear again yesterday.
Went for a rip to circulate water for a coolant flush.

Had the steering and brakes purged and working good in the driveway.
After about an hour of not heating up enough went for a drive.

All good, so I thought, then a few miles down the road no power steering and brakes.

I'm going to crack the hydroboost fitting to check if the pump is pumping, but it seems to not be.

Arrgh...

Sammconn · « **Reply #24 on:** May 15, 2017, 06:45:40 PM »

So here's what I know now...

I cracked the high pressure lines in and out of the hydroboost.
It wept oil slowly.
Not sure what to make of that...
I don't much feel like tearing it all down if that's a weak pump.
Now is it possible for the valve to be partially stuck?

Pump is warranty, should I just order another.

Ken, what say ye?

Sammconn · « **Reply #25 on:** May 15, 2017, 07:09:03 PM »

So, not letting the dust settle. Well I didn't have to totally remove the fender liner.

Took line off.
Finally found a wrench to get on the valve.
Well the port.

No valve came out or spring.
I'll assume that is stuck.

Replace pump still the question.

KensAuto · « **Reply #26 on:** May 16, 2017, 02:51:19 PM »

Just seen this Sam...the valve won't come out by itself, but if you put a pinky or small screwdriver in there, it should just be sitting there..you should be able to press on it and feel the spring. If it doesn't feel loose, it's stuck...pressing it in farther will usually free up the piece of debris (unless it's gauled then get a new pump)

Sammconn · « **Reply #27 on:** May 16, 2017, 03:34:37 PM »

I'm thinking it's stuck.
I had a small screwdriver 2" long, didn't feel anything.
Not deep enough maybe?

I'll try again tonight.

Sammconn · « **Reply #28 on:** May 16, 2017, 10:28:43 PM »

Whelp, I have power steering and brakes again.

The flow control valve was stuck. Very stuck.
I tried in the truck again, and couldn't reach it.
So I pulled the pump, and lo and behold there it was, bottomed out.
It took a fair amount of coaxing but it finally moved up.

I then got it free and emptied the pump out good and began cleaning it up.

This is said valve location.

Here are the three parts hat make up the flow control.

And here is he valve in question.
If you zoom in on it, you'll see the slight scratching.
It's actually fairly significant, and as such I'll be ordering a new pump.

I can't afford to have his happen on a trip out, let alone towing 10k.
So I'll get good at R&R on the pump.

Thanks Ken, I have my truck back!

Bob Smith · « **Reply #29 on:** May 16, 2017, 11:16:32 PM »

When Ken speaks, we need to listen, except about reading novels.

KensAuto · « **Reply #30 on:** May 17, 2017, 12:16:40 AM »

Nice!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

stlaser · « **Reply #31 on:** May 17, 2017, 09:20:24 AM »

All H jokes aside, Ken definitely earns his keep around here & is a great wealth of auto knowledge among others things.

JR · « **Reply #32 on:** May 17, 2017, 07:17:36 PM »

Did you replace the lines already?

Sammconn · « **Reply #33 on:** May 17, 2017, 07:45:26 PM »

Lines...2 attempts OEM, 1 attempt NAPA, currently, hydraulic hoses with AN fittings to Swaged fittings on the steel lines.
So no less than 3 times personally. Lol.
Don't remember if they were warranty waaay bac when.

I think on the first page of this somewhere I have pictures of he last set...(so I believe).

Sammconn · « **Reply #34 on:** May 17, 2017, 07:47:40 PM »

Ok, pics are somewhere else. Here is the current lines.

Same same as the upgraded trans lines. Only difference is the original fittings are retained.

KensAuto · « **Reply #35 on:** May 17, 2017, 07:53:56 PM »

Those have to last way longer than the aftermarket/stock type. I've had to warranty more than a couple GM hoses in the last 30 years. ...you'd think that I would learn!

Sammconn · « **Reply #36 on:** May 17, 2017, 08:03:13 PM »

Yeah, it took me a few times...

Our local garage small place, he makes them in house.
Cuts and crimps the AN fittings, then Swages the appropriate size on the tube, and voila.