REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => What are you building? => Topic started by: Flyin6 on February 15, 2024, 06:26:12 PM
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I continue to refine the capability of my Jeep Gladiator (JT)
Last year we did two big trips in the thing to five different locations and a dozen states.
It was the first time we used the thing to both travel in and live out of. The system we used was to mount a frig in the back seat, then stack things in plastic tubs. It was a workable system but akward at best. You would have to essentially, download the back end of the truck to get to sleeping bags in one packer, a stove in another, and camp tools in yet another.
It worked, but that was the last time I planned to do it that way. This time I will build two large multi-level and compartment drawers. I will mount the Lithium atop the flat deck and give myself a slide out kitchen setup. I will keep clothing and sleeping gear in the back seat area and everything else in those drawers or in one or two bins which will be atop the new platform.
I am creating a 13" deep drawer with a frame constructed of 3/4" plywood.
I will pay close attention to weight, so I will be "Ghosting" a lot of the panels and using thinner materials where I can. I will lose the weight of the bins but pick up the weight from the drawer system.
So here we go, starting with some ACX 3/4" pine plywood.
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I still have this assembly table that I built my overland camper on. I sanded the top to give myself a good flat surface to assemble the frame of the drawer system.
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I squared up every cut with a wallboard square I trust. Using my Makita track saw, everything came out dead on!
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These five pieces are all there is to the bottom of the monocoque construction.
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The end pieces are 6" wide and the longitudinal pieces are 4"
I will attach them end to end in a butt-joint connection using Kreg screws and glue.
Each connection gets two screws, which will yield a strong connection with the glue.
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The Kreg system is excellent. I have long used it and recently upgraded to this clamp fixture which clamps the stock in place while you drill the screw holes.
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The drill guides are hardened and accept a specific drill with an adjustable collar that you set up for the thickness of the material you are using. The drill fixture/clamp base houses all the parts of the system:
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I set the collar up for 3/4" material and I will use a 1 1/4" special screw.
The depth is engraved on the drill bit and there is also a guide built into the drill fixture.
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I drilled a test hole to join two pieces of wasted stock to test the setup.
It was perfect.
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Next I assembled the bottom of the cabinet:
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Next, I cut the back panel:
I drilled holes through the bottom and used 2" wood screws and glue
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The center divider went in next. I used two through the bottom 2" screws and a bunch of Kreg screws from above and wood glue as well.
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Next either side went on with 2" screws through the bottom and back and wood glue.
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It is dead-nuts on and square. I will give it the evening for the glue to set up before building the next step.
I have not sourced the slides yet since the length is an odd length at 59 1/2" deep. A 60" slide will be too long, so I am wondering if I can just cut one down???
Have to solve that part of the puzzle tomorrow...
Inside detail of Kreg screws used to hold the center support to the bottom.
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Nice start. I have seen the system used many times and looks great to hide screw heads.
I really need to build something for the Tahoe. I have stuff rolling all around.
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Nice start. I have seen the system used many times and looks great to hide screw heads.
I really need to build something for the Tahoe. I have stuff rolling all around.
I also love the Kreg system.
Chief. Cut out the far end a hole for the end of the slide to slide into.
You’ve got 3/4” there and the 60” will then fit.
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This should help to keep all of your gear easily accessible. Looking forward to seeing it in person.
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Nice start. I have seen the system used many times and looks great to hide screw heads.
I really need to build something for the Tahoe. I have stuff rolling all around.
I also love the Kreg system.
Chief. Cut out the far end a hole for the end of the slide to slide into.
You’ve got 3/4” there and the 60” will then fit.
Good idea Sam, let me check that out.
Now the whole footprint is 59 1/2. Subtract 3/4" from that for the back panel and I now have 58 3/4"
I am going to ghost all those vertical panels to save weight so what's two more holes, right?
First I want to see if I can cut down the slide hinge by 1.5". Might be an easy thing, dunno yet
Off to Menards...
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I started the second assembly day with parts ordering.
Inbound now are several sets of drawer slides including four of the big 60" ones which I will have to modify to fit the slightly shorter dimensions.
Then I added two small pieces to the unsupported drawer open end to keep things square:
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Due to the nature of the entire structure gaining strength strictly due to its monocoque structure, a lot of material can be removed to lighten the structure.
Today that is what was on the agenda.
After deciding on a uniform size, I fashioned a template to cut all the lightening holes exactly the same.
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I used that to remove two generous holes in the back plate.
You could just cut the opening with a jig saw, but with using the template and a router, everything is neat and uniform.
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Using the same technique, I removed two picture windows in each of the longitudinal sections.
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The weight savings at this point was an easy 10 pounds.
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Then I removed more material in the central support column with a 5" hole saw.
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Enough material removal for now. Next I'll route the edges and fashion a top plate that will key in on dowels.
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Looking good boss, I think (at some point & as if I need more on my plate) I’d like to design a system for my f250 so it levels the bed to the same height as the front 40 gal auxiliary tank and give me some storage along with keeping access in the summer when cap is off and doing gooseneck duty. So without the cap it’ll need to be water resistant too. This would allow me in winter months to still haul long objects like a skid of axles in the back area.
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Waterproofing is necessary for me too. Interior surfaces will get several coats of spar urethane, and the bottom and exterior will get bed liner coating. I used that system in other places and it works to keep water out.
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Want to see what you do for the top since you need load bearing there. Just ply or a laminate setup?
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Want to see what you do for the top since you need load bearing there. Just ply or a laminate setup?
Here's what I was thinking...
Use a sheet of 1/2" ply for weight savings over the entire top. Then for half or the top have a sheet of 3'4" on a full extension base mount slide out. THat way I could load bins of things I use, like, say clothing, and just slide it out to access.
Haven't decided yet, and that is why I haven't purchased more plywood.
So far, the thing is very light. Probably weighs about what half a sheet of plywood weighs.
If I build the drawers out of 1/2" with a 1/4" or maybe 3/8" bottom, I can save a bunch there too.
I have to decide as tomorrow is the day I am off to buy the ply for the rest of the project. Everything else should be coming in shortly in the brown truck.
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Don't skimp on the bottoms, do holes along the sides. If you leave items in containers your could leave that way or just a door skin to close it up. In fact 3/8 and a thin skin might be stronger?
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I cut the pieces for both drawers
One of the drawers is going to get all chopped up with coffee table lids, a couple of pull-outs and a lower work area for a stove.
For now the sides will be 3/4" plywood with 1/2" bottoms, front and back
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I cut 1/2" rabbits into the bottom and back of the side pieces so that I could get two glue edges for the 1/2" ply
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I measured everything three times, then measured again, recorded the numbers, then checked again!
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I used a good percentage of all my wood clamps on that single drawer.
No nails are holding any of that together except that when I fastened the back, I did drop in some 1" #8 wood screws to prevent the back from blowing out with heavy stuff slamming into it.
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The frame is all dried up now. Next up for it is a through sanding, routing of the edges to get a 1/4 round, then several coats of Spar Urethane.
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Here is the slide-out that will hold the collapsible sink.
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It had a nice carving knife located in its bottom. I think it doubles as a cutting board, but something is counter intuitive about cutting on your sink that is supposed to hold water...
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I glued in the inner panel for the front. I will have a larger panel affixed to that one once the drawers are fitted.
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Cutting board about to be cut up itself!
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Working on it a few hours every day, I am now in the fourth day of construction. It is getting fun as I start to plade drawers and shelves, nooks and crannies.
First off I added a drawer for the sink
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It would have been easier to figure all the picture windows I had to cut today to fit the items, but I am just sort of doing a design as I go.
So I cut in a letter-sized aperture. and I fitted the sink. I did a ghosted, double 3/4" panel that weighed three ounces less than zero to hold it.
I placed it on a 14" drawer slide and made the washtub removable.
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Probably not going to over-complicate and add any running water to this, but a bin is better than nothing to clean up pots and pans after dinner.
Next, I added a bulkhead directly above the washtub drawer.
Some places were hard to get to, to clamp freshly glued surfaces, so I pulled out the handy stapler and got right to it.
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Next up, I built a cutting board. The bottom is made from a ghosted (For lightness) 3/4" ply and a surround for the plastic cutting board of 1/2" ply.
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^^^^^^^^^That stuff also weighed less than nothing!
I cut another slot for the cutting board and fitted that sucker into the scheme of operations.
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I placed a floor above the cutting board as well to help divide the roaches from the mud daubers next summer.
Next, I built a vertical bulkhead from 3/4" ply to create a space for the cookware of a pantry, or who knows what she's gonna shove in there, sort of place.
Before I just cut a heavy piece of 3/4 and glued it in place. I ghosted more than half of it which cut down the weight significantly. I have dust floaties in my eyeballs and found enough dust in the shower to clog the plumbing. I'll call a plumber in the morning, but first, I'll give the Mountain Dog a chance to spread it all over the bathroom! :-0
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That first pantry is pretty spacious. It can hold a six-pack of hammers and a coke, or a bunch of cokes and a hammer, your choice!
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And with so much dust in my lungs, I am hoping to catch Covid so I can breathe a little better (than now), I tossed the dust rag in for the evening.
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Like the design so far, off the cuff works!
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Looking like a smart design there, chief.
For weather resistance, I wonder if starboard would be as effective as the ply?
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Looking like a smart design there, chief.
For weather resistance, I wonder if starboard would be as effective as the ply?
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Dunno Tex.
I have had good success with a multiple-coating strategy using inexpensive plywood.
The camper I built has been outdoors for a year with zero leaks...
Admittedly sometimes it ends with a sabre saw and a bonfire, but I have learned with time ;-)
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Well at least when you get where you are going you can order the burning of the ships….
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Oooof, tac topper….. :tongue:
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When do the rangers come home? Keep the sawsall hidden!!
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When do the rangers come home? Keep the sawsall hidden!!
Now they use rifles, pistols, shotguns, swords, and axes
Did I mention they collect Viking battle stuff and actually train with it?
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Only spending a couple of hours on it here and there.
Today I ran out of 1/2" ply, but I did get the other drawer mostly glued/clamped and screwed together.
First off I cut the 24.5" X 5" opening for the stove drawer.
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Here's where I didn't have a piece of 1/2" ply big enough to add a top to that opening. Neither did I have anything to build the drawer out of.
The frame will support the floor for the next compartment going up.
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This part of the drawer will have a "coffee table" top. It will rest on the gas-charged hinges and will rise when the drawer is open to expose the storage below and give us a small bit of counter space.
I ghosted the underside significantly lightening the tray.
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The section above the cutting board got a small divider to help with organization.
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The largest part second drawer was assembled and clamped up while the glue sets up overnight.
That front side shows one of the sides kicked in. This is due to clamp pressure and the fact that there is no front section in place to square it up at the moment.
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Nice. You have really thought a lot of this through.
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Nice. You have really thought a lot of this through.
I got a lot of ideas from other people. Not taking any credit for creativity here. The design is unique but came from a hodgepodge of other builds.
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Here is the top and the other drawer
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After cutting a deck for the space above the stove drawer, I cut a divider and gave it a relief to not mask the deep drawer space behind it.
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Then I installed the coffee table lid hinges. This will provide a little more work space around the cooking area
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And here is what I am working with so far:
Next up is the cook top drawer, then finishing can begin.
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Looking better. I have seen similar units selling for several k.
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I fitted the final drawer today. This one will fit the two-burner cook top.
I built it with tapered sides, then decided to just cut the sides down.
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Here it is all opened up and closed for travel.
Next up is sanding followed by sanding, then interior water proofing.
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Do they lock closed?
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Do they lock closed?
No. Side drawers are captured by the cabinet sides, and pull-out end is captured by the tailgate. I plan for a foam pad to be inserted between the drawer front and tailgate at closure to push them closed.