You didn't transpose that right, 23 spline not 32 because i have 1350 and 1410 32 spline output yokes.
You didn't transpose that right, 23 spline not 32 because i have 1350 and 1410 32 spline output yokes.
sorry.. should have been more specific. 23 spline input shaft to the t case. they are male to male, and the trans has a 23 spline output with a female to female spline coupler between the two male shafts
You're brand new here, what, 1 day old and already have two project trucks going!
WHOA
I can just imagine what your contributions will look like in a year.
Guess I had better go buy a bigger web site!
Welcome to the fray!
I'm banning myself- I deleted your sign-up yesterday cause your IP address was from Africa, Carribien and/or Middle East............sorry........glad you resigned-up! Going to my corner now and putting on my pointy cap! :(
Many who have done this use a OEM Dodge 4x4 engine mount cross-member. It fits very well....keep in mind that picture is with a spring over.That barn of yours is more like a museum!
(http://i.imgur.com/3MMLuev.jpg)
Wish we were closer, I probably have a half dozen of those transfer cases in stock somewhere in the barn LoL
Looks like a fun project to watch...
Many who have done this use a OEM Dodge 4x4 engine mount cross-member. It fits very well....keep in mind that picture is with a spring over.
(http://i.imgur.com/3MMLuev.jpg)
Wish we were closer, I probably have a half dozen of those transfer cases in stock somewhere in the barn LoL
Looks like a fun project to watch...
We were going to clean the barn out.... but after looking at the project we decided maybe we will add on a 20x30' section instead. That seems simpler....
That design type keeps showing up. I guess the early mounts are the way to go for most.
Never seen with a slot for drop in though, hmmm.
I would venture to guess that the civilian market took the military product and modified it to their needs.....
Very nice work.
You going to add a cross member under the motor mounts? From the end that frame looks thin and would want the 12v to twist it.
Coming along nicely.
Great project. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.
Good looking project! I always liked the look of the M715!
That could be pretty cool!
I expect to see you at the Yukon booth for SEMA 2016.
What a waste of Willys sheet metal,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Dyna matt, turbo from the hood. To lang for anything but maybe mud drags. TO each their own.
It's cool and all, but I am much more intrigued/excited about your build.
To me, it seems like a waste. I don't like using something vintage for something like that. But to each there own as I was a little short up there.
Then you might not like his one even though it does have a 12V Cummins.
1950 Chevy 4x4
http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/5394688184.html
I like it.
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Your 12 valve has a vacuum pump in front of the p/s pump, right? Wipers...bam
thanks for the compliments. he has many hours in the intake alone.. but hearing that kind of feedback helps. haha
thinking of something like this for the under hood air filter/box. anyone here happen to know the CFM requirements for an HX35.. Norm..??
600 CFM seems like plenty.. especially since it's forcibly being sucked in and not just passively pulled by cylinder suction.
would like to have a SqD type pre filter on it as well.. where did you source yours from Don?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9831?seid=srese1&gclid=CKqNiP2VsMsCFQusaQodWiIFgA (http://m.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9831?seid=srese1&gclid=CKqNiP2VsMsCFQusaQodWiIFgA)
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/SPT9832.htm (http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/SPT9832.htm)
and possibly.. but less likely just based on space:
https://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/8821/17-2516-air-filter-housing-aluminum-12-body-4-in-4-out-left-side-empi/ (https://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/8821/17-2516-air-filter-housing-aluminum-12-body-4-in-4-out-left-side-empi/)
I have a small K&N cone filter (3.5" inlet or so) on my 1st gen 12 valve with HX35 and 2nd gen IC and I still make ~30ish psi in 2nd.. ??? maybe it will be roughly the same.. not entirely sure though. I suppose I can always go bigger if needed..??And let's remember, overall PSI isn't what is making the horsepower, it's the volume.
the cobra makes 15ish psi on stock intake and SC.. so maybe quality of air filter is more important than surface area..?
i think I found the pre cleaner you were talking about Don. think it's gonna be en route in the next few days.That's not it
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/5564E518-0EEB-4E41-84E4-3017162BA09A.jpg)
you should write a book.. ??? hahahwell you'll have to purchase a BDPPVMD (Big Don Pipe Pressure and volume measurin' device)
the next question would be, how could/would one test the VOLUME as it relates to PRESSURE once all gauges are hooked up? say I see 35 psi on autometer.. how do I know I'm getting good, solid volume and boost in the intake manifold?
I saw the top spin models. do you see any issue with what i posted? my dad likes the look of the clear sided model.. hhahWell, I have one on my CASE and the darned thing gets all fuzzed up and cloudy lookin'!
the next question would be, how could/would one test the VOLUME as it relates to PRESSURE once all gauges are hooked up? say I see 35 psi on autometer.. how do I know I'm getting good, solid volume and boost in the intake manifold?
I saw the top spin models. do you see any issue with what i posted? my dad likes the look of the clear sided model.. hhahWell, I have one on my CASE and the darned thing gets all fuzzed up and cloudy lookin'!
Cheap junk if you ask me. Now mine atop Square D says "This guy here who owns me, why, he's intelligent...or legitimate, or something like that. People see that truck and their eyes quickly go to the top spin, which I like to call my "Top Hat" and I can just read their minds "This guy here is intelligent...I can see it in that top thingy!"
That's what I have to say about that!
I drag folks in there all the time. Then use the snow shovel to remove the dust so they can make out the outline of a truckI saw the top spin models. do you see any issue with what i posted? my dad likes the look of the clear sided model.. hhahWell, I have one on my CASE and the darned thing gets all fuzzed up and cloudy lookin'!
Cheap junk if you ask me. Now mine atop Square D says "This guy here who owns me, why, he's intelligent...or legitimate, or something like that. People see that truck and their eyes quickly go to the top spin, which I like to call my "Top Hat" and I can just read their minds "This guy here is intelligent...I can see it in that top thingy!"
That's what I have to say about that!
Question, how does anyone see the top hat on sq d? You carrying a picture of it around taped to your forehead or was this possibly on the way to the diesel mechanics shop on the trailer behind C-max as you were stuck in a mall mulch bed again? ::)
I drag folks in there all the time. Then use the snow shovel to remove the dust so they can make out the outline of a truckI saw the top spin models. do you see any issue with what i posted? my dad likes the look of the clear sided model.. hhahWell, I have one on my CASE and the darned thing gets all fuzzed up and cloudy lookin'!
Cheap junk if you ask me. Now mine atop Square D says "This guy here who owns me, why, he's intelligent...or legitimate, or something like that. People see that truck and their eyes quickly go to the top spin, which I like to call my "Top Hat" and I can just read their minds "This guy here is intelligent...I can see it in that top thingy!"
That's what I have to say about that!
Question, how does anyone see the top hat on sq d? You carrying a picture of it around taped to your forehead or was this possibly on the way to the diesel mechanics shop on the trailer behind C-max as you were stuck in a mall mulch bed again? ::)
I'm guessing trn's shop by the back of a trailer.....
Man that's going to look good when you are done. Lets just hope it doesnt turn into a paperweight like SQ D
Where's all the smoke at? The last one of those that ran on here made a lot of smoke inside a garage and it looked all foggy and such......
I was amazed when we knocked off the grime and degreased it. shot it with cummins beige and aircraft paint remover on the valve covers, intake and turbo compressor housing. my dad wanted to make it look like a machine, so we did. lol
Cool! you thinkin' about having an EGT probe? ...now would be the time!
...nevermind. duh
...only about 400 degrees difference under load!!
I personally think running post turbo is a waste. It doesn't give you accurate cylinder temps (I wanna know how hot the piston is when towing) JMO
Those look just retro enough fit in but have modern gauges.
makes sense. I guess I wasn't taking into account the thermal insulating properties of the cast exhaust housing.
d44 vs d60 identification:I see it now...My bad!
1/2" cover bolts = d44
9/16" cover bolts = d60
And what JR said. he's got a 60.
c'mon Don.. there's not even any dust on it! hahahSo you're saying it is still serviceable?
c'mon Don.. there's not even any dust on it! hahahSo you're saying it is still serviceable?
;-)
I think the reason they don't brace the 205 is due to rotational force. When that cummins twists it all up, the 518's aluminum case has to take the stress if the case is anchored vs able to twist. Frame twist (and it will) and drive-train movement are not a linear movement if that makes sense.
ohh man! no idea how I missed that. did you have to add/change the output bearing housing to accept the smooth round mount? I like that. hoping mine won't cause any harm to the driveline.. but would love to use that style on the next oneNo, it just bolts right on. Not sure if it is designed to allow rotation, with chaffing and all that, but it certainly could.
also, getting fluid today in preparation for cranking the engine sitting in the frame. dextron 3 or 4 ATF for the 47rh should be fine, right? im sure a quick Google search will confirm that, but figured I'd stop here first with some real life experience. hahah along with fluid capacity. I know a 700r4 is 11 quarts bone dry, or about 6-7 with. just a service. there was fluid in the torque converter when it went it, but don't think it was as full as it could be.
Make sure you build those transmission lines 1/2" That's OEM size on the CTD 518's. Don't skimp on the cooler, those transmissions can make amazing amounts of heat with a CTD.
looking forward to seeing it running.
JD fluid for diffs and tcase? I'll keep that in mind when I go to service the rest of my first gen. any recommendation on the cooler? or will one from Napa/O'Reilly's work just fine? oil compatible soft line will work, will it not? I've always heard that the valve body in those trucks won't flow fluid in park.. so you set the e brake and put in neutral to move some fluid.
I don't have a heat exchanger on this one, it came out of a manual. but another guy I know said he's removed them completely and just run a cooler on his 96 auto.
JD fluid for diffs and tcase? I'll keep that in mind when I go to service the rest of my first gen. any recommendation on the cooler? or will one from Napa/O'Reilly's work just fine? oil compatible soft line will work, will it not? I've always heard that the valve body in those trucks won't flow fluid in park.. so you set the e brake and put in neutral to move some fluid.
I don't have a heat exchanger on this one, it came out of a manual. but another guy I know said he's removed them completely and just run a cooler on his 96 auto.
No just the transmission.
also, will the JD fluid need any additive?
I think the OEM heat exchanger system woks fine until you tow. Then it needs assistance.... Dodge offered a additional bed mounted cooler on HD towing options actually.
I am a cooler snob, I tend to only run plate type coolers, usually setrab. Size is dependent on how heavy you tow/use the truck.
I'd run the cooler lines in 1/2 steel tube..it's simple, durable, and the steel tube helps shed heat also, much better than rubber hose.
Also a note on the TP cable... proper adjustment is extremely important to the transmissions health. That Cummins will eat the 518 alive in just a few miles, if it's not adjusted correctly.
Nice! Now can you stop by Don's house and do that for his??
Nice! Now can you stop by Don's house and do that for his??
it should be noted that the 3/8" fuel line is stuck in a 1 gal ATF jug and 5/16" return line going back to the same..
Don..
What was that strange sound after you engaged the starter?
Boy, that seems like a really simple process....... :D
That sounded great, Even Don likes it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Don't helis and diesel run about the same fuel?
so.. on the 47rh, relaxed is in the forward postion (just like 727 and 518) the cable attaches in a bracket at the rear of the transmission case on the drivers side.
there is a bit of slop/play in the first maybe 20* of rotation (from front to back) when it feels like it hits a springed lever in the trans, at which point resistance begins. (not a lot.. but noticeable)
is the transition point betwee completely free slop and the springed lever the point at which it should be at idle.. and as soon as the throttle moves, immediately begins pulling against 'resistance'
or should be from the forward most postion, pulling a through slack and then to resistance
(the first makes more sense so me..)
This one.
Those IC pipes look good. Did you buy some pre-bent tubing, or do it yourself? just curious
I want to use something for mine that I can get anywhere if need be. I have had really good luck with Ebay stuff but if I need a cooler or radiator down the road somewhere, I want to say give me something for a ford 7.3 or dodge 12v.
My next one will be built with no IC because I am odd like that LoL
Thats one sweet square body build in that link. I wish I had that kind of time
Finding a Dodge crew is easy.... finding one for a reasonable price, not so much. I might get mine done one day LoL
Thats one sweet square body build in that link. I wish I had that kind of time
Thats one sweet square body build in that link. I wish I had that kind of time
I'd be VERY careful of a crew especially with a rusty floor. 75% of them have bad roofs and it's very hard to tell by looking at them. But rusty floors is a common sign, especially on the DS. I have seen Arizona crews with bad roofs. It's a byproduct of poor assembly seam sealing and the fact on a crews larger roof, they will literally makes water during temp cycles. So use a screwdriver under the seam sealer and look for softness on every square inch of the roof seam. Also the pillars behind the front doors...in the pinch welds.
Also while your at it the crews are bad for cracking the rear body mounting areas, check those also carefully.
I'd be VERY careful of a crew especially with a rusty floor. 75% of them have bad roofs and it's very hard to tell by looking at them. But rusty floors is a common sign, especially on the DS. I have seen Arizona crews with bad roofs. It's a byproduct of poor assembly seam sealing and the fact on a crews larger roof, they will literally makes water during temp cycles. So use a screwdriver under the seam sealer and look for softness on every square inch of the roof seam. Also the pillars behind the front doors...in the pinch welds.
Also while your at it the crews are bad for cracking the rear body mounting areas, check those also carefully.
Is someone paying you to do this?
You are moving so fast an doing so great work.
I do know the feeling when working on something and getting really "into it"
and speaking of getting back 'in to it'.. when do you get vertical again and able to work on the 12 valve 'burb?
So, I'm sure you have posted what liner you are using, but I seemed to have missed/don't recall what it is. Sure looks good and would be nice to do on our crew when I replace the floor. Did you or dad spray it on or is it all rolled?
If you want to get some practice on a crew come down to southeast AZ, I'd love some help and the expertise. I can manage but I am by no means good at it.
Thanks for the info on your liner.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Who knows I am a long ways from that stage yet LoL I still have to find a passenger side rear door that's nice....and come up with a plan on how to build it.
My next one will be built with no IC because I am odd like that LoLCome on Norm, you're odd in lots more ways than just that! ;-)
You swapping that 14 Bolt to 1410 also? Now is the time LoL
You swapping that 14 Bolt to 1410 also? Now is the time LoL
wasn't going to.. think I should?
I have been eyeing those GLO straps/girdles myself. I was trying to decide in my farmer engineering mind why those wouldn't be stronger than the u-bolt style retention. I decided they almost have to be stronger. Only draw back is I already have all U-bolt style yokes in 1350 LoL
I need to make a move if I'm going to do it since both shafts are at the machine shop getting prepped. I can call the guy today and get him to put 1350s on both ends, but I may just let it ride (literally) and see which goes first.. if ever.
the guy is going to inspect the Chevy slip yoke shaft to see if it's able to be used. he said there were 3 different sizes it could be and wouldn't know without cutting it open. the front will be easy, since it's a 4 bolt flange to a yoke on the axle. just needs to be lengthened. the rear is the tricky part. hahah
vote for changing the 205 yoke to 1350
-OR-
just leave it and see what happens..
Shots fired!
I'm not entirely convinced he even knows that there IS a brake pedal in that truck. hahah
Shouldn't hurt the sender... people do it all the time on auxiliary tanks that are bed mounted. I'd probably seal up the connections well but otherwise it should be fine.
Just spray them with a marine sealer or battery sealer. Actually that is good for any connection not sealed up.
Think you can let Don borrow that custom tank for SQ D? :D
Looks good but it does need bigger tires.
Why would SD need a fuel tank???
Looks good but it does need bigger tires.Ya know!!!!
Why would SD need a fuel tank???
Looks good but it does need bigger tires.Ya know!!!!
Why would SD need a fuel tank???
I'm gonna stick the fuel line in a bucket of diesel tomorrow and see if it starts...I'm tired of all this fussin'
Looks good but it does need bigger tires.Ya know!!!!
Why would SD need a fuel tank???
I'm gonna stick the fuel line in a bucket of diesel tomorrow and see if it starts...I'm tired of all this fussin'
That's the same da&^*&** tires I took off my 73 gmc...those things were miserable!!!!! the "original" Humvee tires.
Yah Ken those tires are "special" to drive above 30 mph LoL
Hey, a day is actually 24 whole hours!
That's the same da&^*&** tires I took off my 73 gmc...those things were miserable!!!!! the "original" Humvee tires.
believe me.. not my first or second choice. but.. they were free and at least give us a better idea of how it will sit. ultimately, I'd love to see some 18" bullethole rims with 37-40" terra grapplers or open countries. or.. possibly a set of patriots that the diesel brothers now have..
US Dodge guys we have to do tings all on our own LoL
LoL I didn't say I was going to part it out. I have a standing offer or three for the truck complete, if I decide I will part with it.
Nice work, looks so uncluttered with the bezels removed.
Clear coating?
95% certain I have fixed the fuel leaks on #3 and #5 injectors. need to grab some carb cleaner to get it fully dried to double check. but it wasn't pouring out like it was. (I think there were paint chips down in the line flare.. but I also replaced return line washers on those 2 as well)That's a hydraulic control valve
cranked it up and the tires immediately turned all the way left, PS pump and gear box worked. hahah. but.. why would it push it all the way left. and, when I grabbed and turned the steering shaft right, it was dead.. it bumped and then pushed itself all the way right with no input. I grabbed it again and pulled it center where it stayed. shut the engine off, turned it back on and it stayed the next 2 or so cranks. maybe it just needed to be worked both ways alittle..?
mocked up.. notice the straps suspending it. hahahAnd while using weld quality precision wooden blocks!
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/D0F0B6BD-9E42-4F02-8A81-4C7F6F8C5C3A.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/24E91ECB-B4B3-4BAE-A343-0202C8DDFDDF.jpg)
Brown Santa is on my "bad list" this week... they keep running two-3 days late on delivery. Why the tank sealer? Guarding against welding pin holes or?
Brown Santa is on my "bad list" this week... they keep running two-3 days late on delivery. Why the tank sealer? Guarding against welding pin holes or?
Thought the red was for the inside?
Are those other tanks for,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?
This thing is just beautiful!
got a visit from brown Santa yesterday.
I have to admit, talking to SquareD the other day, it admitted to me that "It" was a bit jealous of this M715.9 thing...
I'm thinking of gettin' it some counseling.
Anything is legal today. Not right, but legal.
Good idea! Maybe some Lycoming gray will wear off on the Armee Jeep!
I have to admit, talking to SquareD the other day, it admitted to me that "It" was a bit jealous of this M715.9 thing...
I'm thinking of gettin' it some counseling.
maybe let em move in together. I have a stepdeck I can come get it ;D
Good idea! Maybe some Lycoming gray will wear off on the Armee Jeep!
I have to admit, talking to SquareD the other day, it admitted to me that "It" was a bit jealous of this M715.9 thing...
I'm thinking of gettin' it some counseling.
maybe let em move in together. I have a stepdeck I can come get it ;D
Looking good.....I should build a snorkel for the Circus Wagon...hmmmm
Me too. Like that white paint without the red drops all over it. Amazing how much can leak out of a tiny little fitting
Me too. Like that white paint without the red drops all over it. Amazing how much can leak out of a tiny little fitting
I'm hoping my leak is from the trans pan gasket. it has the hydraulic fluid recommended to me from folks on here, so o guess we will see what my trans guy says about it. hahah.
that lycoming (sp?) may just very well end up as engine paint on the next cummins I aquire. hahah.
I am fond of the industrial teal green though..
Me too. Like that white paint without the red drops all over it. Amazing how much can leak out of a tiny little fitting
I'm hoping my leak is from the trans pan gasket. it has the hydraulic fluid recommended to me from folks on here, so o guess we will see what my trans guy says about it. hahah.
that lycoming (sp?) may just very well end up as engine paint on the next cummins I aquire. hahah.
I am fond of the industrial teal green though..
I just drained my entire tranny system for my flex plate issue, the tranny looked like new inside a very very small amount of metal on the magnet and that is after 45K miles the hyd fluid still looked and smelled good. The only draw back is if it's really cold the tranny will "whine" until the fluid gets warmed up. I am very happy with the JD fluid.
Me too. Like that white paint without the red drops all over it. Amazing how much can leak out of a tiny little fitting
I'm hoping my leak is from the trans pan gasket. it has the hydraulic fluid recommended to me from folks on here, so o guess we will see what my trans guy says about it. hahah.
that lycoming (sp?) may just very well end up as engine paint on the next cummins I aquire. hahah.
I am fond of the industrial teal green though..
I just drained my entire tranny system for my flex plate issue, the tranny looked like new inside a very very small amount of metal on the magnet and that is after 45K miles the hyd fluid still looked and smelled good. The only draw back is if it's really cold the tranny will "whine" until the fluid gets warmed up. I am very happy with the JD fluid.
this is great to hear. I still have a small leak, I believe from the pan gasket. but since it's not a crucial piece to finish the truck, it will be addressed once it's driving.. and it'll end up with a B&M deep pan with temp sensor port eventually. it's the only gauge I have that doesn't do anything at the moment, but wanted it there when I wired it all in so I knew what I was working with and could make the wiring as neat as possible. I'll just wait until the deep pan goes on to fix the gasket unless it looks like that might take awhile..
also, it never really gets 'really cold' here. hahah. so I might be in decent shape so far as that goes. there's a brake fluid leak on the pass caliper that needs to be addressed.. but other than that I think the 'stopping' is just about buttoned up. id like to put a line lock in for the rear brake/parking brake. that'll do away with the cable and foot pedal for the Ebrake as well. I have a place for it once we get it going, just plumb it in after the fact.
next hurdle is bolting the top down, finishing up work on the bed and painting that. then mating the two back together for the first time in 8-10 months.
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/5079EC47-C8E1-431F-A647-71C838E251CA.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/F8FC6585-F46B-44D2-841D-0050B135EA54.jpg)
the open stake pockets have been capped with sheet metal to prevent water from entering and rusting the inside. some more tie down points will be welded in place before it gets line-x'd. we will also be adding a 5th wheel mount that bolts to the frame and is accessible through a cubby hole in the bed. (I believe that is still his plan) not that it'll tow all the time, but would be nice to have the option to hook a trailer with my moms CJ on it and cruise to the beach for the week
This is a sweet build. Was kind of hoping it would go up for sale, jus sayin :-)
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I totally enjoy watching this build!
We have to have a pic of that thing sitting next to SquareD and Sarge...Kinda like a reunion of long lost cousins!
I totally enjoy watching this build!
We have to have a pic of that thing sitting next to SquareD and Sarge...Kinda like a reunion of long lost cousins!
Who's going to tow Square D to the photo site?
;D
I totally enjoy watching this build!
We have to have a pic of that thing sitting next to SquareD and Sarge...Kinda like a reunion of long lost cousins!
Who's going to tow Square D to the photo site?
;D
Oh no, you just didn't go there, Airborne!
So you and your dad don't do this kind of fabrication work professionally?
Isn't the battery in the driver's foot well going to make things a little cramped? :o
;)
Well, RMTWS is happy to promote you right along. I/we appreciate good craftsmanship.So you and your dad don't do this kind of fabrication work professionally?
no sir.
at least.. not yet. hoping this turns in to sort of a rolling billboard of sorts. we shall see
nice touchx2!
got some work done on the truck this weekendThat is
new 'black out' light.. hahah
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/08005D65-FFC9-41E6-99B1-22383AB70294.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/6D2B6722-0ACB-4A48-9988-B1D3457C3B2C.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/81FACF44-EB12-4738-B2C5-45BBE9CB6C6C.jpg)
I am jealous for sure. Maybe a little heat shrink on the cables?
How much did you pay for them batteries. I asked on Friday and they said I'd be $ 189 for the red tops
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Up front, be different.
You probably stated already but what size tires are going to fill up those fender wells again?
No emblems. Just me but I hate emblems. Stealth mode
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$2k for toyos, what rim size??
I could see that with no emblems. Would look good.
Keep the tire thin for that classic look.
Not even a cool decal for improved aerodynamics???
Tom McIntyre at Acsco. There company has made several custom emblems for SEMA builds, and are in CA. 818-953-2247 is his direct line. Tell him Tate at Yukon Gear & Axle recommended him. They can do CAD examples, one offs, you name it. http://www.acsco.net/emblem/inner/Productsemblem.shtml
Not even a cool decal for improved aerodynamics???Don wants racing stripes I think
Not even a cool decal for improved aerodynamics???Don wants racing stripes I think
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Not even a cool decal for improved aerodynamics???Don wants racing stripes I think
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Like my fav car, the 70' SS 454 Chevelle?
Like those?
I could see it...
Well, not really
For SEMA, all you really need to do is talk to one of the vendors of the diesel products you have on the motor. Your build is SEMA quality thus far, and I've been every year since 2008, so I have a good perspective. it's the details.
i had no idea. i really appreciate the kind words and votes of confidence. it really would be a dream come true to be there. maybe not with this truck (as cool as it would be) but one of the next. i guess i just need to put some feelers out there and/or change some parts on the cummins. hahah.
y'all really don't know what this means.. just to hear it from someone. gratifying and humbling..
These are true statements. Anything built and showcased on this forum for example as well.
Except SQ D, that build turned into a rolling parts bin...... ::)
Shawn, I think you're going to get fired again!These are true statements. Anything built and showcased on this forum for example as well.
Except SQ D, that build turned into a rolling parts bin...... ::)
Shawn, I think you're going to get fired again!These are true statements. Anything built and showcased on this forum for example as well.
Except SQ D, that build turned into a rolling parts bin...... ::)
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah
but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah
but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah
but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
Why not just recenter the Humvee wheels to get back spacing you desire?
I did it on the Square D threadmost recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah
but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
Why not just recenter the Humvee wheels to get back spacing you desire?
id love to do that. just not sure where around me does that sort of thing..
that.. and in a year or so i want to go to 17/18s so i can get some 37-40" toyos or nittos for a better ride. the hummer stuff is just to hold us over until then. make sure it all runs correctly
think you could post which section you did it in? i feel like i remember seeing it now.. just can't remember which of the 200 pages it's on! hahaha.It's in Part 3, in around post 156 or so.
I am still in the air about re-centering mine. Got to see how it looks with balancing versatility.
I like the idea of no PCM for the 47rh. Read up on it and it looks simple with kits to do the whole thing. I have a 46r right now.
i just read a couple guys breaking input shafts shifting into OD locked up.. but i wanted to make sure that the OD didn't need the extra pressure from the LU to operate. the PATC system also has a $10 cole hersee normally closed pull switch to act as a TPS to kick it out of LU (which i can make work to drive a relay to kick it out..)
you don't want a 47rh do you? i have one in trying to get rid of to swap in that getrag. hahah
but now.. i have to find a speedo cable for this bad boy to work. anybody.. anybody..? hahah
but now.. i have to find a speedo cable for this bad boy to work. anybody.. anybody..? hahah
Unless you need the cable for a speedo or wan to remote mount the sender you can use the supplied jumper that comes with that kit.
but now.. i have to find a speedo cable for this bad boy to work. anybody.. anybody..? hahah
Unless you need the cable for a speedo or wan to remote mount the sender you can use the supplied jumper that comes with that kit.
^^^ See that
Something no one under the age of 50 has ever seen
Room under the dash!!!!!!!!!!!!
^^^ See that
Something no one under the age of 50 has ever seen
Room under the dash!!!!!!!!!!!!
there's enough room to stuff MULTIPLE cats under the dash.. not that i've tried or done any sort of scientific research to confirm a number. but will if there is enough interest in it.. ;D hahah
That light bar is growing on me.
thank you sir. it's going to have the least dark (50-75%) window tint that i can find just to knock down on that sliver/white glare and make it disappear alittle (don't want to look too modern..) and some red film for the 4" round light on the hood for good night vision when riding down farm paths..
thank you sir. it's going to have the least dark (50-75%) window tint that i can find just to knock down on that sliver/white glare and make it disappear alittle (don't want to look too modern..) and some red film for the 4" round light on the hood for good night vision when riding down farm paths..
Adding a red filter isn't going to help guide the way. It'll help you from losing your natural night vision (yes Chief I know fancy pilots like blue-green or cornflower blue or something fancy like that), but won't give you much advance warning.. Unless that light is ridiculously bright then disregard.
this will be for very low speed travel <15mph. and just to look cool. the 40" bar and LED headlights should throw a significant enough beam when traveling at warp speed. hahah
front demo vid (rear one is being slow and won't upload before bedtime and quack hunting in the AM..)
http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/4EF8FF17-BB7F-42F0-A5FE-F0AA81BE7628.mp4.html (http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/4EF8FF17-BB7F-42F0-A5FE-F0AA81BE7628.mp4.html)
and trying to be cool like all the heli-kopter peeps..
switches for days
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/89CC31F5-05AB-4D43-95C3-AF7D9178D70B.jpg)
front demo vid (rear one is being slow and won't upload before bedtime and quack hunting in the AM..)
http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/4EF8FF17-BB7F-42F0-A5FE-F0AA81BE7628.mp4.html (http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/4EF8FF17-BB7F-42F0-A5FE-F0AA81BE7628.mp4.html)
and trying to be cool like all the heli-kopter peeps..
switches for days
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/89CC31F5-05AB-4D43-95C3-AF7D9178D70B.jpg)
Looks awesome! More importantly, did you get any ducks??
maybe this one will work..
http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/E05EF980-9BF3-4BBE-8038-3EED5470B984.mp4.html (http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/E05EF980-9BF3-4BBE-8038-3EED5470B984.mp4.html)
thanks. those corner marker/turn lights were a bit tricky.. but i think more than worth it.
Looks good.
I would love to see a how to on the tranny rebuild. (or a good link)
Oof! That's got to be hard on your fuel mileage.
Wow. Sorry to hear.
Looks like the motor mount was too tight. :-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't worry JR, had me going too. Better go get the metal stretcher and fill that blinker fluid :knucklehead:Blinkers have fluid???
Perhaps the antenna didn't have enough RF grease.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't worry JR, had me going too. Better go get the metal stretcher and fill that blinker fluid :knucklehead:Blinkers have fluid???
;-)
Blown motor and still faster than me or SD,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just sayin!!!!
You people thrive on:
1. The suspense
2. Gossipin'
3. DOTn'
4. Pokin on SD or its builder... :undecided:
littering and.. littering and..
... it's terribly agonizing. hahah
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/72CFED1E-30AA-478B-B890-27F5D872ECB2.jpg)
if photobucket was being a little B id have one up.. :angry:
hey.. i wouldn't mind doing that. provided i was supplied with sufficient amounts of bacon and booze. anything is possible!!
Can't you just do it for the sake of all the viewers here? And for the future ones to come? And maybe a bottle of good bourbon?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where? Well it's sitting right where it's been since they discovered dirt! :popcorn:
UNDER THE SURFACE DUST OFNearFlorence KY
Hey you still Alive??? Any updates???
i’m not dead and neither is the kaiser!!
hopefully this works..
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0uF5-m_Jl16yio6N2wPDcJ2hQ#Downtown_Wilson,_NC (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0uF5-m_Jl16yio6N2wPDcJ2hQ#Downtown_Wilson,_NC)
if anyone would kindly inform me of how to post directly here.. i’ll be more than happy to post as many as you’d like. hah
send me a PM I might have a use.
4500 is an iron case right?
47, is that electronic like the 48 or in between?
next big ticket (hard to find) item i’m searching for is is a cummins bell housing for a 4500 (and not spending an arm and leg for it)
i got a factory cummins input shaft for the 4500 and a new (well.. better condition) 23 spline input shaft for the 205) will show comparison pics when it gets here.
twin stick shift rails showed up yesterday. waiting on pinion brake..
Looks pretty good for used, wonder what mine is?
Have the stock driveline setup for my 6BT, R46, w/205. Drive flanges on both sides,
Also have 2 bell housing adapters, think one in for auto, other for man I hope.
jb on the shift rails? Who's e-brake?
I have a set of those jb ss rails, you think the adjustable detents are needed?
I have a set of those jb ss rails, you think the adjustable detents are needed?
I have a set of those jb ss rails, you think the adjustable detents are needed?
I’m sure glad we had them on ours, made things a lot easier during the two times of him under the truck adjusting and me moving the sticks back and forth. Found that mix of what works well!
very nice, does it turn.
So, I should install something like that on my Suburban.
I am using captured hydraulic pressure at the moment as a parking brake, which doubles as a solid wheel lock should I have to winch, but this seems more, well, "Normal" (And pretty darned kool!)
OK then!So, I should install something like that on my Suburban.
I am using captured hydraulic pressure at the moment as a parking brake, which doubles as a solid wheel lock should I have to winch, but this seems more, well, "Normal" (And pretty darned kool!)
https://www.highangledriveline.com/np231&241.html (https://www.highangledriveline.com/np231&241.html)
i think this is what you’d need..? NP241 in the burb i’m thinking?
Very nice. Who has dibs on the old unit?
got the wilwood e brake cable installed on pinion brake. after adjusting.. man is it strong. parked it on a +/-20° hill at my parents house and it held. i’ll try and get a pic of it in place that’s as accurate to portraying ‘level’ as possible. but it’s strong. tires actually slid on wet grass a bit but weren’t rolling. lolI very well may be going to that setup myself in the burb
got the wilwood e brake cable installed on pinion brake. after adjusting.. man is it strong. parked it on a +/-20° hill at my parents house and it held. i’ll try and get a pic of it in place that’s as accurate to portraying ‘level’ as possible. but it’s strong. tires actually slid on wet grass a bit but weren’t rolling. lolI very well may be going to that setup myself in the burb