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Messages - wyorunner
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1301
« on: February 02, 2016, 05:27:43 PM »
From what I've seen, they're pretty decent. You have to relocate the fuel module to keep it cool...pretty easy. I've done a couple pumps, and seen a timing chain break (or maybe it was the key way, icr) and bend all the valves/push rods on one, but rarely anything major.
The relocation of the fuel module was the first thing I found, and suggested it be done immediately upon purchase if they chose to purchase it. In digging around a bit more it does seem they have a few tendencies of badness. But so does everything. One issue that seems common is block issues, whether it be cracking or the starter breaking off, seems as though they must have had a bad batch or just poor design obviously this is what is in the web, so she could buy this truck and have zero issues with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1302
« on: February 02, 2016, 04:51:08 PM »
The 6.5L turbo diesel is supposed to be a pretty reliable engine, if underpowered. It is the same powerplant that is in the M1151 up armored HMMWV. From what I understand, they'll last a long time, as long as they aren't run too hard. Apparently they are prone to blowing head gaskets and headbolts when abused (much like any other diesel engine, this seems to be the weak point). I've got no experience with them outside of the HMMWV, and I just drove/rode in them. All info I've gotten is from the interweb. Good luck!
Cj7, I never worked on them either, just drove them, and just found out the issue I had when running in a convoy once. The dang pump mounted driver over heats. Seems to be easy enough to fix though. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1303
« on: February 02, 2016, 04:09:41 PM »
Hey folks, A friend of mine is looking at buying a 95 Chevy Silverado with the 6.5l diesel. Only experience I have with this engine I believe is in the hmmwv while in the service, unless that was the older 6.2. Any and all info and heads up is greatly appreciated. Here's the link: http://sierravista.craigslist.org/cto/5408710456.htmlThey are currently scheduled to go look at it tomorrow. I will most likely go with them. Thanks for the input in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1304
« on: January 30, 2016, 02:09:20 PM »
Yes. 5.75 backspace. 9 inch wide. Others were 4.25 backspace and 10 inch wide. Will need 1 1/2 spacers in the back. 
On the alignment rack. Need to go get new lugs. The old ones stick out a tad too far for the cap to cover.
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TRN, How did you go from chrome on the rims to red? Is it a replaceable insert or did you have them powdered before install? Looks good on your truck though! After looking closer it appears they are replaceable, if you covered this further back in the thread my apologies, I have been following but very well could have missed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1305
« on: January 26, 2016, 11:50:40 AM »
I get to spend the day standing in line at veterans benefit administration just to get my VA claim turned in.
YAY ME!
Can't you do it online? Vonapp or something? I know that's where I did mine, I don't remember if I had to turn paperwork in or if I did all online, but may be worth a look so you don't have sit there all day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1306
« on: December 24, 2015, 04:51:28 PM »
Being in hell paso id imagine any missing gear can be replaced from some mil surplus store??
CIF/Ta50 was all in the same place in lejuene, is it that way there?
And yes that is probably one of the worst parts of checking out of a unit..
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1307
« on: December 23, 2015, 01:50:21 PM »
I have used a LEM some years back and was very impressed with it, very solid feel to it. only thing with electric grinders is that they are a bit loud............
When I was using the one that decided to leave me with about 5 lbs to grind and no grinder, I asked my wife if it was too loud, as I was grinding in the kitchen and our son was napping. She said it's no different than the vitamix. However, that's means they are both loud! Best option is in the open garage. Good to know. I'm hoping our ag store has some discount coming up and I may go buy that big bite they have in store. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1308
« on: December 23, 2015, 01:44:47 PM »
It's just called M-vac because that's the environment it operates in.
Thanks. I thought for some reason that it was something ...uhh....else. lol
So you are a part of this whole spacex thang?
Where the name M-Vac comes from is Merlin(name of engine) and Vac (vacuum of space). Yes I am a part of SpaceX I am the grandpa in my group and I'm considered young in Aerospace years.
So by grandpa you're the oldest by probably ten years or so, possibly even less because college grads today seem confused about age and wisdom. But youngest in aerospace years meaning you're somewhat new to the industry? Because when I first read it I was confused as how you can be a young grandpa. Fascinating accomplishment for space x and all involved though, even if somehow or another you have managed to be old and young all at the same time :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1309
« on: December 22, 2015, 11:48:15 PM »
Some of the #32 size hand units come with, or can be outfitted with a pully, and add a suitable electric motor. I think it is the LEM that I have seen that with. No idea on motor size required, if I were to guess, 1/2-1 hp. Thing with that grinder, ye oylde fingers are real close to the auger.
Had an interesting moment in life years ago that fractured the end piece of bone and had to have 11 stitches. I think had I not had gloves of some kind on, probably would have lost it. So it really does only take once! Wasn't a meat grinder but something that spun none the less. pressure doesn't release when the equipment is off. Was a sad moment of stupidity in my life, but what you do. I've never used one but I'm watching closely. I like the hand crank capability but the convenience of electric. May look into an electric but have a manual as backup
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This was kind of my thought. Have both! The manual ones can be had from a number of places too, garage sales. Auctions, antique stores, and of course new. Has anybody used or own an LEM? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1310
« on: December 21, 2015, 10:21:00 PM »
We made history tonight
Glad I got to watch it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1312
« on: December 21, 2015, 08:41:29 PM »
Not sure where you were involved but a congratulations is in order I believe. That was pretty cool.
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1313
« on: December 21, 2015, 07:07:46 PM »
When I was a kid my Mom had a hand crank one like this with different attachments for meat, grains, etc. :
This one is at Lehman's
https://www.lehmans.com/p-2-chop-rite-clamp-down-meat-grinders.aspx
I see the ones at Cabelas and the attachments for the Kitchen Aid mixers but they all seem to have about 50% good an 50% bad reviews so am not sure if those make sense. This isn't power so gives you a work out while you're working it!
My neighbors when I was a kid had something like this. It worked well but took a lot of energy at least that what my recessed filing cabinet of the brain bucket says. I did get a little time on it, but that was the last time I used one. I've cranked many hours on the manual ones.
I've also used cobbled together electrified manuals.
Many years ago 10-15, I bought the 1 hp cabelas unit.
Never looked back. It is an angry beast wanting to be fed.
I don't have any of the attachments for them, but the jerky slicer and tenderizer have been told to me to be "ok" by a buddy. I debated bigger when I purchased it and there is no need for the typical use of a 'normal' individual. Moose, beef, whatever, the big critters it is sufficient for.
The newer ones come with better stuffing bits than mine did, I also have a dedicated stuffer.
To cobble one together, usually entails about the same money investment, and a lot more space
The one cabelas one I used when I was processing with a friend back in 2012 was only a 3/4horse, but was similar to what you are describing. Simply a meat eating machine that would eat it as fast as you could feed it. They work great when your grinding and elk or some other sizeable animal, or numerous antelope deer at the same time. I like this thread already.......
couple of questions.......
1. how often is this grinder going to be used? It'll get used frequently by my thought, perhaps once a month. Or heavily ever 3-6 months.
2. how much are you looking at grinding with this grinder at one time? Depending on the time of year, it'll be anywhere from 30-75 lbs, then during hunting season and when we buy a cow it'll be 100-200 Id imagine.
3. is this grinder going to be an outside unit or used inside? Don't know, haven't really thought about that. Probably outside simply because its cooler.
4. are you wanting to have attachments to go with it or just straight meat grinding? I do like the idea of attachments, especially if it allows me to get rid of one or more of my other kitchen tools. But Attachments are secondary, I want a quality grinder first, the others will come later if at all.
5. what kind of $$$ is your budget? After briefly looking at Cabelas new carnivore line, I'd say 4-500 would probably meet my demand. That's grinder only though. Haven't thought about budget for attachments.
6. are you wanting a manual or an electric model? In a perfect world, a manual one that was primarily ran by electric so if there was a time we lost power I could finish the task. Also, like the idea of manual because of its usability in grid down scenarios.
as you answer, I will put another post together with options.
Wife and I are looking at beginning to raise all our own meat. A guy from church raised our pig for us, and I processed it. I am thinking I want to do it myself this coming spring. Have talked about raising other meat animals too, sheep, cow, goat, ostrich. Just depends on where life takes us really. In a few years raising animals for our family will be the norm, and we will be raising animals for us and each of my brothers and parents. That being said, I will probably process them all as it will save everyone a bunch of money. Then there is the fact that all my brothers and parents hunt, and pay exorbitant amounts to have them processed. I feel I could do the processing for the wild game as well. Thank you in advance and I look forward to your response.
1314
« on: December 21, 2015, 06:50:16 PM »
I heard this on the radio, thanks for the link. We will be watching!
1315
« on: December 21, 2015, 12:00:32 PM »
The cheap meat grinder my old man gave me last time I was in WY hunting officially gave up the ghost. Now I'm in need of a new one. What's everybody using? Reasons you like it? What do you dislike? Attachments it can use such as mixer, or tomato puree maker, any you use? Seems there are numerous options out there. Anyone using a manual grinder hooked up to an electric motor via a V belt? Pics too if you've got em.
1316
« on: December 19, 2015, 11:45:04 PM »
We use our bread machine most of the time. But do love the bread it produces. Just the simple recipes that are in the book it came with, or from the bread books her grandmother gave us. We make banana bread about ever couple of weeks, and zucchini bread when we have zucchini from the garden. Those are both of course simple and in the oven.
I will say, the bread machine cannot make 100% wheat bread with fresh ground flour. I've got to figure out how to make it but it seems most recipes call for wheat bread to have some kind of bread flour or white flour added. The loaves i have made of fresh ground flour have always turned out good, but small and VERY dense. Half the size of a normal loaf with same amount of ingredients to give you an idea.
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1317
« on: December 19, 2015, 11:37:12 PM »
Dig the camp chef. Tell me about the pressure canner
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Its an All American 931 by the looks of it. I have one myself as well as a mirro. The coin that the all American retrieves is well worth it. If you look they can be had at times for about 190. Can hold 7 qt jars, 16 or 18 pints can't remember at current. Heavy, well built last a life time or two, no rubber seal to replace as it is a metal on metal seal. Coat it with olive oil every now and again. It's a work horse that's for sure. There is I think two more sizes bigger than this one, a 941 and on other but can't remember. It can hold 16 qts I believe, and 28 pints. Comparing the all American to the mirro.... All American is significantly better built, appears to be milled but not certain, where as the mirro seems to be pressed. All American holds pressure better and comes to pressure faster. Has 6 screw down latches versus the two in the handles that the mirro has, and sadly takes up a lot of space. However I couldn't imagine not having one. Ours both get used often as we can as much as possible, including meats. If your thinking about a pressure canner, find the all American that suits your needs whether it be large batches once or twice a year, or a small one, they have them. And you can cook in them too, wife did 10cups of rice in each one for some church dinner we helped out with. Oh and of course as you see with what sideways is doing they double as a water bath canner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1318
« on: December 14, 2015, 01:27:20 AM »
We don't have a smoker yet, but the simplicity and assumed low cost of this one and ease of obtaining 55gal barrels, makes this tempting. Look forward to seeing the food that comes off it. Nicely done on the build though, nothing fancy, but effective none the less.
1319
« on: December 14, 2015, 01:17:24 AM »
Lard is something I do think I am going to do, then can it. nmeyer, these pigs were HEALTHY, and there is lots of left over fat after the sausage. When we were skinning these things we left good amount of fat on the hide in hopes to make trimming them up a bit easier... still tons of fat, its a bit ridiculous, real good looking meat though. I did know about putting it with deer, elk or antelope. However, I won't be shooting one until next fall (if I draw), and by then we will be on our next round of piggly wiggly raising and processing. Thinking about getting one in a month or so to start raising so that way when this one is eaten and gone I'll have one ready to go into the freezer. It seems rendering into lard is the most commonly done option though. I searched google a bit before posting here, just figured there would be someone here who has used it for x y or z for years now.
TRN, that is the best option yet! Should have kept the feet and taken pickled pigs feet with it.
1320
« on: December 13, 2015, 07:50:44 PM »
This is the one we own, the peanut butter plus option is newer and something I don't have... But will soon enough. http://countrylivinggrainmills.comAmerican made, and versatile as it can be used to grind bean flour, corn flour or wheat flour, and apparently peanut butter! Spendy yes, but in comparison to the cheap Chinese crap that's out there it's worth the money. I did a good bit of research before I bout mine. Looked at electric and manual. And this one won out because it is manual but can be adapted to be driven by an electric motor or a bicycle with a little ingenuity and a a v-belt. One thing about manual vs electric is temperature. Electric ones make the wheat hotter which supposedly kills some of the nutrients, don't understand that to be honest but that's what my research found. Grinding with this one in comparison to the cheapie a seemed to be that it was easier because of the quality of the product and the size of the wheel and length of handle that it uses. I can attest to its ease of use but cannot personally provide comparisons as this is the only one I have. I have also done flour in the vita mix though. Temperature also seems to affect the effectiveness of milling, so cooler is better, or so it seems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1321
« on: December 13, 2015, 07:32:02 PM »
So I just butchered my pig and now I've got an excess amount of fat. What are my options to use it and not simply throw it away? I have never done anything with fat before so detailed information would be greatly appreciated.
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1322
« on: December 12, 2015, 05:12:54 PM »
Yep that was fantastic.
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1323
« on: December 12, 2015, 01:07:22 AM »
That is wyorunners 4 door "Hank" . He has a build thread here. http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=1312.0
i saw it earlier, going to be a cool truck. love a first gen crew cab
One day maybe! Our current goal is get it running and safely drivable. So everything off my donor is going on the crew cab. Nothing fancy just part for part. Once it's good to go, then will come the fancy. Too much going on right now to have two non running trucks around, one which will eventually be sold off as bones to the scrap yard. Sure do love the crew cab though, it's ginormous in side. Had me, my wife and our son in the front seat, and our dogs moose Millie and monstro in the back seat. Moose is the smallest at 80lbs, Millie is about 100, and I'm guessing monstro is currently about 130-140. They're all Danes. I mention this nonsense just to kind of put a comfortable size perspective on the back seat! Should be fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1324
« on: December 11, 2015, 10:16:59 AM »
Well, the toyotas will fetch a premium price and I don't have that now. I think an 90's jeep or blazer will be the way to go.
Yea they usually do. Good deals can be had but they don't come around too often. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1325
« on: December 10, 2015, 10:57:17 PM »
Having driven every generation of 4Runner a 500 or so miles (parents have owned the new ones drove em when we fly in), owned a 93, a 96 and still own our 02 they are worth a look. The 4cyl in the early 90s gets great mileage and last forever. The 3.0l v6 is known to have head gasket issues, no big deal just replace the original one and run it another 100k. The third generation (96-02) with the 3.4l also lasts for ever. I know many that have 250k plus. I personally think they are easy to work on. And I've broken my fair share of crap on my truck to know this. They get 16-18mpg, parts are mostly available in store some might take an extra day. You can pull with them with no real issues, and they are pretty comfortable to ride in. The only thing you may not like is they may be a little higher to get into the seat than the others, but never compared them side by side so can't confirm or deny that. There are plenty of them available too, they just might cost a little more than the other two.
I have been fond of 4runners since I was 14 and first started looking and owned one for about 12 years now, I'm not an expert on anything just personal experience with them.
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1326
« on: December 07, 2015, 12:51:00 PM »
Looks a little rough, but nothing a good mig or tig (and a bunch of time) won't fix.
p.s. A thick layer of undercoating will cover unsightly welds! lol
Ken, funny you should mention that..... The previous owner lined the whole cab floor. Makes me wonder what I'll find when it gets removed. Things may be taking an unexpected turn though, and we may just get it road worthy for the time being, and then in a few months it'll get torn down to bare. We'll know soon enough I suppose. Certainly not what I want to do but some other unforeseen circumstances have reared their not so pretty head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1327
« on: December 06, 2015, 01:17:09 AM »
Outside the frame rail passenger side under the front door.  Front of the transmission tunnel just where the cab curves back, passenger side.  Showing how the previous owner attached the two floor pans, these rivets are a common sight.  Drivers side transmission tunnel just as the cab curves back under the firewall.  Under the drivers feet.  Drivers seat area, right above transmission mount, used pieces of the original fenders or the bed. The fenders on this truck are probably from LMC or someone like them.  Outside the frame rail, drivers side, B pillar area.  Outside the frame rail, drivers side, directly below drivers door, this piece is huge. You might be able to see the attempt to remove the bad rust where it was cut just at edge of the door and then re-floorpanned, guessing that was the intent. Again, more fender or bed was use in conjunction with one of them floor pans from LMC or someone like them (is there anybody besides LMC that sells body parts like this?).  Close up of the new floor pan that was riveted, caulked, and foamed in.  These kind of give you an idea of what I am working with. When I push the truck back out of the garage to wash some of it, I'll get under there and wash the dirt off and maybe get some more/better pictures. Or I might just wait until I have the cab off and stripped, then we will be able to see the true ugliness. Didn't think it was this bad when I purchased it, but I also wanted to just get back on the road. Serves me right for rushing through the sale I suppose. Oh well, lots will be learned. Hopefully, Ill be able to get my wife involved in some of the cutting and pasting, then a WHOLE LOT will be learned, as she has only ever taken things apart with me, never put them back together. Shoot, it is going to be her daily driver after its done anyways, would be good for her to get her hands dirty and involved, oh and its always awesome getting the household boss involved in the project!
1328
« on: December 05, 2015, 12:36:09 AM »
Bummer on the floor rust....the crew cab floors are a bit different than standard cab floors.
By a bit do you mean won't fit without lots of work or just needs a little extra love?
The 445 was a optional close ratio 4 spd in the early 70's. It was often ordered for snow plowing and camper hauling. The ratio splits made all 4 gears more useful in a largely "empty" truck. Ie you could use first, and 3rd gear was highway friendly when climbing hills. Gear ratios are 1st 4.56, 2nd 2.28, 3rd 1.31, 4th 1:1. If you had a big block powered Dodge with a slide in camper and did much hill climbing, this was the transmission to use.
It is a bit "rare" although I guess in all honesty most people don't have much use for them LoL Especially given the divorced mounting issue, it's range of applications is limited.
Works well as a pallet anchor or dirt desk ornament.
On a Dodge I think I did mention to you the wisdom of front clip removal before engine yanking. Do make sure to do this on your Cummins truck. Also remove the wiper motor, and the brake line clip on the engine cross-member under the oil pan.
You did, sadly I'm an idiot and did not listen or remember, so I made it more difficult that it needed to be. Got it out without breaking anything though, thankfully.
Gasket info: Buy a Fel Pro bottom end kit, they work fine with proper installation. In fact, I could argue they work better in so far as the pan gasket/front seal. Anything attached to the head area, buy it from Case-IH/Cummins. Case being much more thrifty BTW. Exception to this rule are the "blue" Fel-pro valve cover gaskets...I use these instead of the Cummins gaskets on my builds with great luck.
This is great news, thanks!
Kill that KDP, lock tight yr timing cover bolts behind the gears, and toss it in.
On the list.
I'd contact Hungry Diesel in Idaho and buy one of his low pressure lift pump kits. Go back to Case/IH buy a "nipple" Case IH part #J925954 this will allow you to use a OEM fuel filter, and eliminate the fuel heater you no longer can buy parts for, and always leaks at the worse possible time. (if this hasn't already been done)
Thanks for the heads up will add to the list.
If looking for something to do while stalled on other aspects of the project... rebuild the OEM starter (if its still on there) and use a "upgrade" http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html read some on that page, you'll get the idea. I highly advise doing this BEFORE it craps. If it doesn't have a OEM starter.... find one LoL
Don't know if it is the OEM, will investigate and make note of it.
Other little tidbits: The oil seal between the vac pump and the P/S pump usually leaks. Or it will soon....LoL I'd prolly replace that if your keeping the vac boosted brakes. Also label your motor mount brackets/mounts L or R side so you don't confuse them somehow if you remove them...you have no idea how many do this LoL
Going to save the vac boost for the time being, once its driving, ill be upgrading to hydroboost.
Oh yeah... tappet cover seal, replace this using a OEM Case/Cummins gasket. This will also leak...and anger you to no end if you don't replace it now.
that should keep you busy for a while....
On your rust issues...I warned you about this =P Ok... that said, Do yourself a fav now and consider your facilities and skill levels and equipment. If you are ambitious you can use the front half of the floors and firewall from the club cab. A few spot weld cutters, some patience and a lot of grunt work and you'd have a nice solid fix. Another point of interest...IF you also find roof rust....the front half of that club cab roof is the same as the crews...I would first thing...remove every stitch of seam sealer from the roof seams and look close for corrosion. This will fubar your paint...but your in this deep. LoL Roof seam leaks are the #1 cause of floor rust in these trucks, cowl cracks being the second reason... many have both.
What sucks about this, is the rust that I found, and small cowl cracks I couldn't have found without taking it apart, sadly. Now, facilities not enough room right now for half cab mating, skills, yea I'd probably make it through it... But it would not look factory I'm afraid. Floor/firewall will be doing the floor for sure, fire wall, have to think about this one. May go the route the orange crew cab did and cut the entire thing out and replace it with 16ga. Seem sealer, Haven't gotten to this yet (cab is getting stripped in the next week or so), but the previous owner said he cleaned it all up when he first got it and re sealed it. Do I believe this, not fully but there is no paint cracking or flaking from the rust in the gutter so its very possible that all my floor problems came from the hidden cowl cracks. I am currently trying to figure out how to juggle two pallets of parts that are being stored on the flat bed, then take the truck out of the garage, cab off then back in garage then everything in its respective spots will be taken down to bare metal to find all issues, issues fixed, then painted. Honestly, wife and I did not want to go this far into it yet, really just wanted to get it running, But the floor is just too much of a cobbled together mess and needs to be fixed correctly, not with rivets and expanding foam. Still have faith in the truck, just have to create a cut and dry fixing plan.
What I am saying is..... you may want to hang onto that club cab a while yet. It may turn out to be exactly the parts truck you needed.
This is the second time I heard this today, and am most certainly heeding this advice.
Norm, as always, thank you for your input it is much appreciated, as I am just a new kid in town with the basic know how of how to be dangerous with a vehicle. Maybe an ambitious project, but when it is wanted by you and your wife, you find a way to make it happen, and that is what I will be doing.
1329
« on: December 03, 2015, 11:32:55 PM »
I missed this sorry man.....been dumb busy. I have not made up my mind what I am doing with the two 5speed combos I have. I have been trying to get time to piece my daily driver together again after a tranny line failure and a slight accident involving a missing door. I have no idea if the broken line hurt the 518 or not....I was plowing snow and it stopped moving, out of fluid.
Norm, Let me know. It may not be needed for a bit anyways, seems wife and I have decided to try and do this once and have a newish truck, which means the entire floor board of the crew has to be removed and replaced. So I'll collect parts while that is happening. And things are kind of slow right now anyways, I'm in my last two weeks of my masters program so that has owned the majority of my time. Still have the 92 body if you or your son want it. Was thinking about Parting it out, taking what I think I'll need, and drilling out the spot welds in the floor board to use it as a one piece replacement, well almost one piece. Hope you guys are doing alright. Turner Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1330
« on: November 30, 2015, 10:13:10 PM »
Here are a couple of pretty good articles on the move itself. Secondary to that, research the 10k swing kettle bell workout!
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Much appreciated. May have to add this as it is seems to be an easily added and painfully good workout. Thanks.
1331
« on: November 30, 2015, 11:36:47 AM »
I have to ask, and please forgive my ignorance as all we do is train to run (wife and I), and by train I mean go out and run 4-8 during the week day runs and 8-20 weekend runs. Some sort of long distance thing were training for. What is it that you do with a kettle bell? We're always looking to improve and that seems it could be an easy addition. I know, most of your are probably laughing that I don't know how to use such a thing, but I've never needed to lift weights as I have always been able to do what life has asked of me. Thanks in advance.
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1332
« on: November 29, 2015, 12:51:48 AM »
Made some more progress this week, was able to get the 440 and so I thought NP435 out. Turns out its not an NP435, its a 4530 also seen it as a 445. No idea what its worth or it compatibility so if you have any info on this please let me know, or if you want it that would be good to. All I know is it has a 4.56 first according to tag and some research.  Pretty close to being ready to come out here.  In the process of getting there I found all this sadness   The bolts holding the front core support on, one of them was not even attached, the others just pulled through the clips. The bottom three are from the passenger side and were still removable.  None of that was a huge cause for concern, because the front clip is going to have to be modified anyways, or maybe just have a custom radiator and intercooler built...Yea Ill probably modify the front clip. In further workings what I found was what made me concerned.  This pile of sadness here is in the rocker panel on the passenger side, any suggestions on how to be able to cut that inside chunk out and repair it? Looking at it seems there are two layers in this tunnel, the outside piece closest to the frame, then this middle section that is completely rusted through. Also realized the magnitude of the entire floorboard needing to be replaced. Moving along came this positive moment,    Lastly there was this findings when I was done loading moving and jockeying everything around.  Hopefully somebody smarter than can give me the skinny on this four speed. Sorry theres nothing technical for you to learn. Should come down the road.
1333
« on: November 26, 2015, 12:42:08 AM »
In my pursuit of my Cummins Crew I have much left over. As it currently stands I have: 1992 Club Cab with a couple bad spots but no rust. It has been primed for paint and the frame has been painted, can't tell you anymore than that because that how I bought it. It does not have a driveline as that is going into my 74 Crew. I will leave the axles underneath at full price or else it can be negotiated to have the axles from the 74. I still need axles for the 74. I would like 3000 for the rolling chassis and body, not sure what its truly worth so if this is ridiculous show me comparable rolling chassis' and body and I will work with you. The engine in the 74 which needs a new home is a 440 and has been rebuilt, I have the bills for the rebuild that I have yet to scan in but will provide to interested buyers. I would like to have 2500 for the 440 and NP435. The 440 alone 2200 and 500 for the NP435. The engine was running before I pulled it. I also have the factory radiator for this truck that I will sell at 100. Divorced 205, I would like 300. The axles under the 74 could also use a home, but unlikely anyone needs them. The rear is a D70 with 4.10 according to badging, the front is a closed knuckle 70 with 4.10 according to badging. I will confirm if it seems odd, just let me know. 750 for the set. If you want Everything 5500 for it all, 5000 without the axles underneath the Club Cab. Again, I have never sold these kinds of parts so I don't honestly know average prices. PM me with questions or comments, include you phone number and request for pictures if you can and want to receive them that way. I will ship or deliver if your willing to pay for it. I will consider partial trade for a D80, 14bolt, NV4500 and 205, NV5600 and 205, or Getrag 360 and 205, and possibly guns depending on what it is.    Drivers Door.  Passenger Door  Dog not included ;D      No idea why this hole is here. Just showing you one of the two bad spots.
1334
« on: November 19, 2015, 01:25:07 AM »
I only purchased a turnover ball system from them, but it was unquestionably pleasant dealings. Even helped me find a shop near me to have it installed. Glad to see you had a good experience with them. Like yourself I find it a pleasant surprise to be able to deal with someone who is both knowledgable and able to be understood, their really are not many companies left it seems.
1335
« on: November 14, 2015, 12:48:13 AM »
Not to add to the severe bloodletting d.o.t. BUT last year around this time I felt the need to allow the ax to slip off the log it was splitting and bound into my pinky toe. Was one of those "huny, I think we might need to go to the emergency room...." Two hours later no emergency room, just essential oil and a band aid as the toe wasn't hanging just a cut. Samm, I am like you overall general abuse to the body have been most of my life and don't foresee a slow down anytime soon. Now for the update, I want to start by sharing a bit of a learning lesson for those who may not have ever pulled an engine, maybe help someone save time or damage to something. Over the last couple days I have worked on this I have found my self wanting it out more and more, and the closer it gets the more its desired. Why do I tell you all this, because as many of you are aware this can create problems and accidents. Thankfully it only cost me time...Oh and a small flesh wound, no biggy really. However, the time I spent taking things further apart mid way through when things were in a bind could have entirely been alleviated had I done EVERYTHING before attempting removal. The point here is remove as much as possible before attempting removal, it will save time and possibly stress. Things to remember, there are a bajillion little connections on an engine make sure they are all unplugged and bungy corded out of the way. Be sure to remove the transmission dipstick before you attempt removal, it will just make everything easier. Think about your lifting apparatus if it doesn't have any other movement than up and down try to plan your chain hook up accordingly so the engine will come out as close to level as possible. Or, simply remove the front clip and fenders, a little more time, but no concern about squeezing things through. On that same note, if this is done you can remove engine and transmission as one whole unit, look around on here you'll see it be done. Lastly DO NOT hurry, especially when your lifting apparatus is diesel powered hydraulics. Thankfully I did not have any issues, but the hydraulics can make quick mince meat of any number of ATF lines, electrical connections, front clip, firewall, WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR (watch this one if your pulling a 6bt from a dodge, its a lovely tight squeeze). Also, if you've never done one before, be sure to ask any and all questions to someone or a group of someones that will probably have the answer. I know pride may get in the way, but it could save you money in sheet metal or any other number of things. I would also recommend an extra set of hands if you can find them, if not go slow and always pay close attention to where the motor is at in regards to the body of your rig. Now, here is from today!     The tractor made slick work of the removal! Now who wants this body? I would love to have it gone. Next steps are minor things to the 12 valve, such as valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, valve adjustment, killer dowel pin fix, thorough washing, fluid change :) possibly rear main seal, what else do you all recommend? Also, reputable source for such parts? I know, there all over the internet but yous guys have purchased from a number of them and know the good and the bad. While that is going on the crew cab will begun its gutting, mainly get the engine, transmission, and transfer case out, so I can get the Cummins back in there. Also, anybody have a getrag or NV4500 with transfer case they would like to part with?
1336
« on: November 12, 2015, 11:08:48 PM »
quit crying, put some GAA on it, wrap it with 100mph tape, take some motrin and move out and draw fire..........;D
Ya see, you forgot two things change your socks and make sure you drink enough water. Crying... Just have to learn to work through it!
Butterfly or super glue, then 100 MPH tape
Superglue, that's my go to for most things, and essential oil.
CM
rub some dirt on it and keep moving, bro. Jus sayin....
ATF, Gravel and a general coating of grease, it's good! It seemed fitting to share or maybe somewhat common place when the bloodletting is from a rig. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1337
« on: November 12, 2015, 05:19:06 PM »
So I'm waiting on getting engine hoist to the house (read tractor with forks) but in the mean time i managed this....  That picture does not do it justice. I showed my wife when she got home and she said "oh wow you can see inside flesh" Here's a better one  Now does anybody need an air conditioning system from a 92 dodge, a 92 adventure cab with long bed, a rebuilt 7.2l 440, an np435 or a divorced 205 transfer case? If you are interested in any or all please let me know, and depending on where you live well work out delivery arrangements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1338
« on: November 10, 2015, 01:11:37 AM »
Long over do update, I finally got some time to be able to work on this project. The Cummins is all but two transmission cooler lines and the AC lines ready to come out, should be in the next couple days. While in there I found a couple interesting things;  This was in the bottom of the radiator. While I didn't get a picture of it, I feel as though this truck went a period without anything in the cooling system because the inlet port on the top of the block was anything but smooth, there was a significant amount of build up as well as rust. At this point, it doesn't worry me to much. While this thing is not a new find, what it is connected to I only just found out and I don't understand why it is attached.  It is located under the middle passenger side of the bed and has two hoses running to the Automatic transmission. I understand it is obviously some kind of ATF cooler, but with the two that were already factory on the truck what point does this serve? Possibly to combat heat from heavy towing? It is cobbled together to boot. I am unsure if it is factory or not but I think it is not. Any info on it sure would be neat, but I am not keeping it whatever it is. Sorry I didn't take a picture of the parts pile that is continually growing. What is the preferred method of AC removal for a system that is not going to be re-used, but possibly sold? My concern is the charge that is in the system, dismantling it and removing the hoses is not that big of a deal really, just not sure how to evac the system.
1339
« on: November 09, 2015, 05:36:37 PM »
Would like to sell the NV4500/np205 out of Anvil? Or any other manual trans and transfer case pair you have lying around?
1340
« on: October 20, 2015, 06:25:58 PM »
I just put a set of duratracs on our Sierra, ran em on our Chevy before this too. Have found them to be capable in all things I do with my truck. KNew a guy who wheeled them on his 4Runner and also loves them. That being said, the shop I worked at in Wyoming sells the the M55s by the truck load it seems. Lots of oilfield trucks, electric company trucks and a handful of ranch trucks. It's a small town shop but the only reliable place to buy tires in that town, and every time I stop by there he's got a set waiting to be installed... For what it's worth.
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1341
« on: October 18, 2015, 06:30:48 PM »
One step a head of you..He cannot have baked eggs or milk. Yet. Dr is confident that he will be able to some time. I never thought about amazon. Great idea! I'm going on there right now. Thanks.
Well bummer to hear about the baked eggs or milk. All in time I believe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1342
« on: October 17, 2015, 02:23:35 PM »
Jon,
We are familiar to what you are dealing with. Two things I would ask/suggest the first is have they tested to see if he can have baked eggs or baked milk, like you would get in a muffin or cake. Many people who are allergic to eggs and dairy, can consume baked goods that have milk and eggs, it changes the protein structure of them when they bond with the other ingredients. If he hasn't been tested for it I would suggest it, because if they can consume it and do, they have a better chance at kicking the allergies.
Second thing, check Amazon for his favorite treats. Cheaper than whole foods can set up a monthly delivery subscription and they have a large number of items available. Pm me if you have questions about anything.
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1343
« on: October 08, 2015, 12:28:34 AM »
Did I miss the information on the tank builder? Wouldn't be surprised if I did, but if not I would sure be interested in knowing his contact information for a number of projects I don't seem to have time for.
1344
« on: September 12, 2015, 01:49:03 AM »
but when you have been hailed as the grand master ninja you wont mind pulling duty every once in a while.
so how is everybodys wonderful friday night going?!
Ok well in reading this thread from back in June It seemed more common, but yea twice isn't bad. I love the title grand master ninja. Those are big shoes to fill! I know my Friday night has been just another night, about ready to turn in. I would guess many others have already. Any update on your retirement packet? I'd assume it's at the last desks of authorization? Many congrats by the way. I wish I could say we were there but nope not for another several years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1345
« on: September 12, 2015, 01:13:53 AM »
Nmeyer414, did you pee in the wrong persons Cheerios? Especially for being on the way out you seemed to have been selected for SDO more than I did in 5.5 years and my wife's 13 and still going.
I am currently in the thought process of getting back in too. What's your take?
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1346
« on: September 03, 2015, 02:54:18 PM »
Norm,
I too am glad to see Anvil has "Dodged" the scalpel at this time. However, I know a good home for the parts that are removed ;D If you would, PM me your email please. Lovely piece of Nebraska you have there, sure wish my old man would have stayed in that area and farmed, especially considering both of my parents are from those parts.
Turner
Turner...I fixed your comment ;-))
1347
« on: September 03, 2015, 12:02:21 PM »
Norm,
That sure is a beautiful place you've got there. If you do decide to part and sell pieces of anvil, I know of a good home for them ;D PM your email if you would. Also, good choice on not parting Anvil as of yet, that thing sure is a beaut.
1348
« on: August 30, 2015, 11:56:01 AM »
There is a wire on old Dodges that carries all the ALT voltage through the firewall bulkhead up to the Amp meter, through it, and back into the harness. If I was to guess at a no charge situation I'd be looking at that wire. If it has not been removed/replaced I sure would do so ASAP. It burns down a lot of nice old Dodge trucks. They go bad at the bulkhead or at the Amp Meter it's self usually.
Also it could be any one of a half dozen fusible links. The usual fix for this can be found in a Google search....it's a common issue.
The amp meter wire is the one that I would say has a significant choke point in it. It is a 4ga wire from alt to meter and the PO had placed a fusible link that was on 10ga in the middle of it, blew that fuse, I then pulled the fusible link. In hopes to get me to town. The wire from alt to meter and the meter were both new. I'll be out there fiddling today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1349
« on: August 29, 2015, 11:51:17 PM »
I'm not sure if this should go here or in the financial section but I'm curious what experiences everyone has had insuring an expedition vehicle or highly modified vehicle? I'm thinking of Square D and how much Don has invested in it....it would suck if he got t-boned by some meth head (in more ways than one!) And the insurance company said "okay here ya go....here's your check for a 25 yo truck with 170K miles"!! >:(
So just wondering how it went for other folks and what experiences you had good or bad. And while I cited SD I'm sure it would be the same for any old muscle car etc. Is it simply getting a specific appraisal and insuring to that? ???
USAA, who insures me, will cover the vehicle for options. You simply need to document them. I usually send them a photo and a itemized list of the modifications. That way they know they are insuring a 100K truck, not a 1K one!
Is this something each person we speak with should know, and they should offer? I ask because that was not offered, but at this time I'd be hard pressed to insure the truck for what I have in it. Still curious though, because they seems as though it would be the best way to go about insurance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1350
« on: August 29, 2015, 07:18:30 PM »
I just called Our insurance company on Thursday for Hank. Being a 74, they said full coverage would be something like 2k if declared a total loss, I'm already into it for more than that. So I said jut give me liability (11$ a month) and let me talk to the collector car insurance company. Talked to them and it ended up being a waste of time. But each company has different requirements such as only 500miles a month, kept in a garage and other prohibitive measures for what they cover. If you only plan on driving it once or twice a month yea that might be the way to go, but still not cheap. I think the company I spoke with was American classic cars. I'll have to reach out to my insurance friend and get his take.
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