We had been ordering most of my steel from ShootingTargets7 along with their rubber straps to hang everything.  Lately we have been going with something like the JC Steel targets slotted targets with AR500 hangers.  They are more expensive but are a lot nicer if you are moving stuff around from time to time.  Also, no hardware or straps to worry about to brake or maintain.  I just put an order in to get a full 5x10 sheet of AR500 cut up for more targets and hanger posts for the club.

I had been looking at this exact kit.  At some point I still plan to get it. Without the stops the bags could be damaged if they were ran empty. The bags with the stops allow you to run them empty and protect the bag from damage should they be ran empty. 

Tex, have you heard of the Mammoth Sniper Challenge?  I would like to do it some year.  Maybe once the kids get a bit older and I could possibly dedicate more time for training but before I get to old, slow and soar.

I'm surprised 6.5 Grendal isn't more prevalent.  It seems like it would be a great hunting round for most anything up to and including deer beyond a distance most people are taking shots at. 

We wrap our venison in some pretty heavy waxed paper type stuff we can get from the local paper mills.  It is a good bit heavier then the normal freezer paper you can buy.  With my folks being empty nesters now they don't go through it like they used too.  They gave me some stuff that was wrapped and froze 3 years ago.  No freezer burn and it was all perfectly fine for eating.  Every once in a while you might come across a corner or something where the paper wasn't wrapped quite right.  Just trim a bit of that edge and toss it to the dog.

I could be wrong but it looks like the hangers might be to far apart.  The links look a bit to horizontal.  I thought mine were more vertical.

So are you just shortening it up a bit to reduce trailer weight?  Doesn't seem to me that you will be trimming off that much weight and it sounds like your intended cargo would keep you under 10,000.  Will the shortened trailer cause any concern for weight distribution when loading?

What projectiles are you running?  I got stuck on lapua scenars a few years ago and need to expand my horizons. 

I have some Berger 175 VLD that I need to develop a load for but just haven’t found the time


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Mostly I use the Hornady ELD-M.  I have never had an issue getting them to shoot and they are cheap enough.   I am not real stuck on super tiny groups or single digits SDs.  The targets are large enough at any given distance that any points I miss in a match are due to me not reading the wind right or just not making a good shot.  That was the main driver for going with a 6mm this time and adding some weight.  I want to better be able to spot my misses.

A lot of guys swear by the Berger Hybrids.  I've heard the A-tips don't seem to make much difference in the smaller stuff but really shine for the larger bullets.  They are spendy though.

So 94" is from outside to outside?  What does that give you for width between the wheels/ fenders?  If I was doing my trailer project again I would be finding some spare tubing to splice into the axles to widen them closer to the max.  To many times I have found an extra couple of inches would have helped a lot with loading.

I've got a couple hundred bullets and primers at home and enough powder on hand to make some test loads.  Brass should be on my door step tomorrow and the new 6GT dies by Thursday.  With any luck I might be able to hit the range on Sunday.

What kind of reticle do you want and what magnification range are you thinking.  That will help narrow the field of options down some.

What are you thinking for budget?  To some people my $1000 optic is really expensive while others consider it a cheap budget friendly optic.

Around here I believe they are actually growing marijuana plants to harvest.  The plants need to be harvested before the THC level gets to high.  A sample is sent in to be tested when it is harvested.  If the THC level comes back to high, the entire field is destroyed.

I have a little experience in the residential mowing arena..

It sounds like your lawn would be well suited for a zero turn.  Contrary to common belief, zero turns are not always the best for trimming around lots of objects like trees etc...  With a tractor the open diff prevents the lawn from getting torn up when turning.  With a zero turn it is very common to see a ring of dirt around a tree trunk.  This is because the inside tire is always getting dragged/ pivoting about and tearing the lawn up. 

Zero turns work great on larger tracts also.  You can really take advantage of the faster speeds and can spin it back around on itself to maximize the amount of time you are actually mowing and not turning around at the end of each pass.  Is your lawn smooth enough to take advantage of the faster speeds? 

How steep is the incline?  Side mowing with a zero turn can be an issue. If it is to steep to side mow, can you mow up and down and have space to turn around at the top or bottom of the hill?

Zero turns typically cost much less to mow the same amount of lawn.  A tractor of sorts with a 48" mower deck will cost much more then a zero turn with a 48" mower deck.  1 acre isn't that much to mow.  I think a 48" mower would be more then enough.  I mow just shy of 2 acres with a 48" and am fine.  Also consider what your landscaping looks like and determine what the maximum vehicle width is that still allows you to pass between whatever obstacle you might have.

If looking at a tractor, what size would you be considering?  Would you want to do anything it other then mow and possible pull a little yard cart?  What about snow removal?

How important is cut quality to you?  Do you just go out there and make tall grass short for another week or are you the type that really takes pride in having a well manicured lawn?

I take it you are the owner or somehow affiliated to Foundation Stocks?  I was thinking there might be a connection with between your handle and the rifle pic, But just putting a rifle together with those specs kind of sealed it.  Travis Stevens tried talking me into a Foundation when I ordered my barreled action a little over 2 years ago now.  I think they were just starting to become available at that time.  Unfortunately it was not in my budget at the time.  A couple of the guys I shoot some of the local matches with have them though and it is definitely on the list of things I want to upgrade to.

So she dumped it into the coolant resivor. When I took a look it still looked the same color blue as the fluid so I don't think it mixed with the coolant in the cooling system much.  I pumped everything out of the resivor and topped back off with coolant.  I think it should be fine for a while until I have time to do a full flush.  It is a 2015 nearing 100,000 miles anyway so it could use a flush and new fluid anyway.

Putting the thing up on blocks and the 2ton jack wouldn't cut it. Relief valves said no.

Front is on blocks to drain/refill the chain oil so only lifting the back. Of course that is where the engine and all the fluids are on the 7k machine.

Ran down to HF and got the 4ton Daytona Floor jack which will end up at the Ridge.

Always seems to be the one not on sale I need or no coupon like several of the 3 tons.

There should have been a 25% off one item coupon you could have capitalized on yesterday.  I just purchased a new 3500 lb winch for the atv Tuesday.  The first one worked for 5 years of snow plowing before it failed.  After the tear down I am wondering if my install may have been the root cause of failure.  If I can get another 5 years out of the next one I will be happy. 

Definitely worth $1200.  If it has a quality barrel and bolt carrier group he certainly could have that much stick into it.
The question is what you would do with it and if it's worth it for you.

Spending quality time with the wife. Not sure if this counts as a date. I'm afraid to ask.

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Only if she is in the cab with you.  The majority of the first dates with my wife were spent in the cab of the haybine or the pack tractor when we first started dating.

Quote from: Bear9350 on October 23, 2019, 11:55:06 AM

Burris XTR II 5-25 optic with a mil-dot reticle.  I am wanting to upgrade the optic to a little better glass and different reticle over the winter also. 

So....

So...what???

The Burris served me well for going on 3 years.   It tracks great, and for a $1000 scope at the time the glass is pretty good.  I can tell a noticeable difference though in some of the harsher conditions though.  On a hot day it doesn't handle mirage as well as some of the better optics I've had to look through.  Also in wet, rainy conditions it's not as great as some of the better optics. 
The reticle is also just a mil-dot reticle.  Again, it worked great for the first few years but now that I have some experience I have a better idea of what I want.  Something like the 7c the Razor offers would be just about ideal I think.  I like that it has .2 mil increments instead of just .5 mil.  A little more precise for both making holds and measuring misses.  I want some amount of a Christmas tree style reticle to allow me to hold for both windage and elevation at the same time but not super busy like the Horus (I think that's what it's called).  Also every other mil is numbered on the 7c.  Currently mine isn't numbered.  It doesn't seem like a big deal but it's easy to miscount and get flustered when you are trying to make your shot on the clock. 

I had an internship at a company that made laminate beams for covered bridges.  We were gluing 2x6 and 2x8 lumber together to make very large beams.  I would cut the laminated beams up and break the joints in shear using a hydraulic press.  Then grade the joint based on how much of the wood failed compared to the glue.  Most of the failure was always in the wood and not the glue.

I am shooting a Lone Peak Arms Fuzion action with a 26" Benchmark barrel chambered in 6.5CM.  The gunsmithing work was done by TS Customs.  I will be ordering a new barrel from him this winter as the current one is just about shot out and would recomend him to anybody looking for a custom bolt gun.  The rest of the setup is pretty budget friendly.  A KRG Bravo chassis/ stock and a Burris XTR II 5-25 optic with a mil-dot reticle.  I am wanting to upgrade the optic to a little better glass and different reticle over the winter also.  Ideally I would get a Tangent Theta but at this point the budget isn't going to allow a $4,000+ optic.  Will likely end up with a Razor or Steiner 5, maybe a Kahles.  I also picked up a Thunder Beast Arms certificate off a prize table a few weeks ago so planning on ordering a TBAC Ultra 7.  With the TBACs factory lead times and the nearly 12 month wait I am hoping to actually receive the suppressor for spring 2021 if I order this fall.





I shoot prone, modified prone, off a table or in any other position or off any other barricade the COF calls for.  Usually in a 9 or 10 stage match I am some sort of prone position for on average 3 stages.  If I am in a truly prone position I often times put the front legs out as in the pic below.  The lower the gun is to the ground the more stable the position, as long as you can get in behind it comfortably.



Here I am shooting off the "boat" stage.  The platform is suspended from cables and chains.  When you get on the platform it starts to swing and move.  Also the recoil from the shoot and working the bolt will cause the platform to swing.  Again I have the legs at a 45 to improve gun stability.



In some stages where real estate is at a minimum I will fold the legs back at a 45.  Here is an example where I should have done that.  If the legs would have been angled back I would have been able to get them on the barrel while moving the gun forward several inches.  This would have allowed me to get a bag or something under the rear of the gun to better support it for a better shot.



Just a standard prone position with the legs straight out but fully collapsed.  That is a 10 round mag.



Here is an example of a stage where some people would choose to deploy a bipod and others like myself use a bag.  I feel I am able to create a more stable position with the bag.  The downside to this is it is another piece of equipment I need to pick-up, move and position on the clock.  The bag I am using under the gun here is a Tacky Sack.  It's pretty versatile as both a bag under the gun as I am using here or as a rear bag when I have the bipod deployed out front.

These guys are selling refurbed/ blem Steiner t5x's for a decent discount.  Likely will save you a couple bills.  Might take a while to get to you from what I understand though.

http://www.libertyoptics.com/

What do you mean by pic mount?  Atlas bipods mount to a picatany rail.  You have the option for one that will mount with bolted fasteners very similar to mounting scope rings to a rail.  The other option is the lever mount.  This will allow you to quickly remove the bipod and re install it.

I have the fastener style and wish I had the lever option.  On occasion there is a tight barricade stage in a shoot that I wish I could quickly remove the bipod.  It probably cost me a point or two on a stage this weekend where I would have removed it if it would have been easier.  For your use you probably don't need that option.  Unless you have other rifle that you want to use it on.

Nice choice on the bipod.  When I bought mine I wish I would have spent a bit more for the PSR version.

For rings I would look at Hawkins Precision.

Curious, do they ship free? With the deal I got at optics and free shipping think I got the same price.

When ordering from Optics Planet you can almost always call them up and ask them what the best price is.  It seems like they can almost always knock an additional 10% off.  I've even convinced them to take an additional 10% off an already killer sale price.