Author Topic: Pre-Ranger 2007 Chevy Silverado truck build (Read 5681 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 30, 2021, 07:48:22 AM »

Quote from: Nate on June 29, 2021, 08:56:52 PM

Thats the younger pre rangers right? Cause i thought you got the older one a colorado or something like that?

Korrekt

Flyin6 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 02, 2021, 11:46:48 AM »

So, today was the next project.

The truck will lose oil pressure after a short warm up followed by a short drive of approximately one mile.

Whereas it idles when cold at around 40 psi, the pressure will slowly decrease, eventually touching zero.

And I know I have written about this before.

So thinking it was the oil pressure sender oil screen, we went after that and that turned out to be more than just unscrewing the oil pressure sensor in the back of the top of the block, beneath the cowl, and the sound proofing, and the wiring harness, and of course the intake manifold and the fuel lines...:Let me see, did I leave anything out???

So we pulled the alternator, and the intake along with the air inlet pipe and disconnected parts of the wiring harness and the fuel line, oh and the injector manifold on the passenger side.

Then and only then, could I get a glimpse of the suspect oil pressure switch. Using a deep well 1 1/16" (27mm) socket, and a bunch of wobble extensions and a swivel, I got that out. Then I used a pic to fish out the little oil screen. It fell into a parallel universe somewhere forward of my FOV and I never did get a look at it.

But Haleigh, We got the darned thing replaced and the motor pulled back together.

After starting up, it did perform better with respect to oil pressure. After warming and driving it never fell below 5-7psi and could be revved to get about 19psi.

So what I think is that the screen on this 265K LS L76 engine was suffering from a clogged oil screen, but, alas, I think the oil pump pickup tube O-ring is also defective mandating a future visit to the inside of the motor...Ya...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 02, 2021, 11:48:27 AM »

Pre-Ranger is considering a plan involving a DOD delete, that old torque cam of mine, redoing the heads and so forth...

Meanwhile, he found a leaking PS line which is the focus today, to get that replaced.

Cam specs:
DUR @ .050" 210*/218*
LIFT .552 / .552
LSA 114*
4A

More, much more to come...

JR · « **Reply #53 on:** July 02, 2021, 02:04:56 PM »

Put a mech gauge on the oil to check before you rip into it more. GMs are known for gauges to be way off.

KensAuto · « **Reply #54 on:** July 02, 2021, 07:26:49 PM »

I would bet on the o-ring, but being a DOD/AFM engine, it makes it extremely difficult to know for sure, but, I always start with the cheapest and the o-ring job is that. Be sure to replace the pressure release valve while you have the pan off. (Little thingy above the oil filter, inside the pan). I've seen a couple of those hung open. ... even if it tests good with a blow gun replace it.

It's part of the AFM system so you can plug it off if he deletes it.

..but if he doesn't delete it, find a screen and put it back under the sender if you don't want to cause a stuck lifter! (It's not just a filter for the sender)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #55 on:** July 03, 2021, 11:50:17 AM »

Thanks Ken!

So plan is do the full delete

Will be ordering:
Z06 lifters
Pushrods
Timing set
gaskets
delete metal plugs
Oil pump
head bolts
Did I say headers...??? ;-))
and we will send those rectangle port heads off to the shop to get the valves reground, new guides/seals and new valve springs.
He will clean up and repaint everything in the engine bay before reassembly
That should make for a good semi-rebuild of the engine and a good start to getting the truck reliable

Flyin6 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 03, 2021, 11:53:04 AM »

Yesterday, we searched and found the power steering fluid leak, a defective line. We replaced that, flushed the system and power washed everything out.

Cool part: I had those caliper cores from the recent rear brake job which I took back to Kentucky motors. e purchased a new federated parts PS pressure line, fluid and some JB weld and they gave me all that and credited my account $63!

Pre-Ranger was ecstatic!

Nate · « **Reply #57 on:** July 03, 2021, 01:20:17 PM »

If your going that far, why not do the pump rub fix on the x-case....(that is if its a 2007 old bidy style)?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 03, 2021, 01:30:04 PM »

Quote from: Nate on July 03, 2021, 01:20:17 PM

If your going that far, why not do the pump rub fix on the x-case....(that is if its a 2007 old bidy style)?

Maybe later...What we are addressing is all engine centric.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #59 on:** July 03, 2021, 04:52:27 PM »

Here's a couple pics I took today of the new line installed, and the modified air intake pipe. I simply took the stock one, cut off the three bulbous echo chambers that trash stuff up, epoxied in some block off plates and reinstalled. Still need to attach PCV tube

Flyin6 · « **Reply #60 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:16:30 PM »

Well, pre-ranger said he may not be up for doing the cam and heads. Fears it may not be reliable and that it will cost him all his hard earned $$$. After three weeks of hard work washing trucks he had added $1100ish to his account. When he realized it will likely cost him north of that to get all this done, he shied away, and I do not blame him.

He asked me if I could just help him replace the O-ring on the oil pump and he would try just driving it. So for the past two days we have been dropping a front differential, Steering rack, sway bar, cross-member, and unbolting things that are buried under a half inch of sludge...No fun at all.

But today, we did manage to get the pan off and got the O-ring replaced. Small victory. He cleaned up the pan but had to leave for football practice before we could bolt it back on

Flyin6 · « **Reply #61 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:18:37 PM »

I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars

But

I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him

JR · « **Reply #62 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:22:56 PM »

That is a lot of coin. If it drives and has the power he likes, fine.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #63 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:28:38 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 13, 2021, 05:22:56 PM

That is a lot of coin. If it drives and has the power he likes, fine.

I agree. And I do not want him to have 400+HP under his foot just yet

Oil pan cleaned and ready to reassemble. I guess I'll rivet the pan gasket on there just like Chevy did

I did give the oil filter pressure relief valve two taps like is recommended in the build threads. Raises oil pressure 10 psi or so.

EL TATE · « **Reply #64 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:30:31 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 13, 2021, 05:18:37 PM

I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars

But

I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him

Hear hear! I usually run them to the pay-n-spray and power wash what I can 1st. spending time with the boy does make up for it though. especially w/ the other'n off doing Armee stuff.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #65 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:31:27 PM »

Quote from: EL TATE on July 13, 2021, 05:30:31 PM

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 13, 2021, 05:18:37 PM
I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars

But

I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him

Hear hear! I usually run them to the pay-n-spray and power wash what I can 1st. spending time with the boy does make up for it though. especially w/ the other'n off doing Armee stuff.

Copy that!

oklawall · « **Reply #66 on:** July 13, 2021, 05:52:07 PM »

Spending time with kids is the best time spent

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #67 on:** July 16, 2021, 12:44:33 PM »

Well, that didn't work!

This kid is getting beat up! First the oil screen and all that work did nothing to fix the issue.

Next, we did quite a bit of work replacing this oil ring. We had to drop the diff, the steering rack and the sway bar. Two of the bolts on the sway bar broke and we are in the process of drilling them out, and that sucks.

With six fresh quarts and a start and warm up this was the story:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 16, 2021, 12:49:56 PM »

So, we have several ways to go on this.

First it may be the pressure sending unit, although I have never seen one act in this manner

Second, we could have a gage problem. We check that with a cheapo oil pressure gage

Next, it gets ugly, but it could be an oil pressure pump.

As the oil gets hot (and thinner) the pressure falls away. No longer to zero, but down to 5-6psi at idle, hot.

Now one of the arguments against that is that by tapping the oil filter pressure relief valve, I should have increased pressure everywhere, but it behaved almost exactly like it did before the O-ring replacement.

Finally we could have something inside the engine, like a cam bearing. These motors will wear out a cam bearing and that will bleed off oil pressure to be sure.

EL TATE · « **Reply #69 on:** July 16, 2021, 12:59:19 PM »

without a garage to do my own work in, i dropped 1200 at a shop on the wifes Yukon 6.0 only to find the cam bearing was the issue and the motor was smoked. hope that's not the case here sir.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #70 on:** July 16, 2021, 01:04:55 PM »

What weight of oil are you using?

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JR · « **Reply #71 on:** July 16, 2021, 03:18:53 PM »

Put a manual gauge on it, only way to know for sure.

If you code reader, many will let you see the oil pressure. Don't you have a CST on your truck? Might work to check this?

KensAuto · « **Reply #72 on:** July 16, 2021, 08:47:18 PM »

Thought you changed the sender?
Did you at least blow through the relief valve to make sure it wasn't stuck open?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #73 on:** July 17, 2021, 09:16:07 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 16, 2021, 08:47:18 PM

Thought you changed the sender?
Did you at least blow through the relief valve to make sure it wasn't stuck open?

I sprayed brake cleaner all through it Ken.

But the pressure slowly lowers from near 40 to near zero over maybe 10 minutes of run time...Not right away like something that failed. I am starting to think it is the cam bearings thing. Oil thins as it warms up and starts to slip out of the bigger clearances between the cam and bushing.
Did a dive into this. Chevy opened up the clearances of the cam bushings...Has to do with freeing up HP. I noticed one can purchase cam bushings in a +1 sizing, for .001" smaller ID to account for this additional clearance.
I'll take my HP tuners app and pull the codes from this truck to see if there are any voltage issues with the oil press sending unit. Lacking that, options are getting thin.
Tex: 10W-30
JR: No scanner. Kids truck, not mine. But a hard plumbed oil press gage is a looming possibility

KensAuto · « **Reply #74 on:** July 17, 2021, 10:30:42 AM »

Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.

dave945 · « **Reply #75 on:** July 17, 2021, 11:15:01 AM »

Isn’t there a screen behind the oil pressure sender? Could that be getting clogged up as it warms up reducing the measured pressure too,? If you are going to check the sensor, could check that at the same time.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #76 on:** July 17, 2021, 01:08:15 PM »

Quote from: dave945 on July 17, 2021, 11:15:01 AM

Isn’t there a screen behind the oil pressure sender? Could that be getting clogged up as it warms up reducing the measured pressure too,? If you are going to check the sensor, could check that at the same time.

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Replaced it already (in an earlier posting)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #77 on:** July 17, 2021, 01:11:25 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 17, 2021, 10:30:42 AM

Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.

AFM mani...hmmm
Kind of like filtered cigarettes...Filter doesn't matter because the cigs kill you anyway
Ya, not going there
But what if I just plug all the oil ports in those pedestals? Someone makes some steel plugs you just hammer in that blocks off oil flow. Would that work?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #78 on:** July 17, 2021, 02:46:01 PM »

20-50. On a high mileage engine. Jus sayin

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #79 on:** July 17, 2021, 04:33:00 PM »

Might have to, but, if those cam bushings are shot, that will not help.

Just went out and picked up a new oil pressure sending unit. Guess I'll try that next.

JR · « **Reply #80 on:** July 17, 2021, 04:46:41 PM »

I hear they are known for going bad, hopefully!

KensAuto · « **Reply #81 on:** July 17, 2021, 08:53:59 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 17, 2021, 01:11:25 PM

Quote from: KensAuto on July 17, 2021, 10:30:42 AM
Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.
AFM mani...hmmm
Kind of like filtered cigarettes...Filter doesn't matter because the cigs kill you anyway
Ya, not going there
But what if I just plug all the oil ports in those pedestals? Someone makes some steel plugs you just hammer in that blocks off oil flow. Would that work?

Don't know. I've never tried that. I have only disabled one AFM truck (6.0 max) and bought a kit from Texas Speed that came with a blank aluminum plate that blocked off everything, and a conventional cam and lifter set. Of course the DOD had to be tuned out as well.

Just to give a perspective of what I've seen fail, which may very between shops and locations (hotter temps =lower viscosity)....

Average 1- 2 oil pump o-rings a month. Usually accompanied by fluctuating, and falling pressure, most of the time ticking lifters because of the air intrusion. If this persists, can lead to cam bearing failure. So, on the low end 12/year, a couple hundred since I started seeing LS trucks in the shop.

I remember 1 AFM that we did the o-ring on (it was cracked), fixed erratic gauge but still had low pressure, did the AFM manifold (didn't fix) then took the pan back off and changed the relief valve. That was a learning experience.
So now I don't pull an AFM pan without changing that valve, even if we're just taking the pan off to fix leaks.

We've done 4 or 5 AFM manifolds since then (only after doing the o-rings). ...Actually doing an AFM lifter job right now because he kept running it with a bad o-ring.

..and finally, I've had 3 come in that ended up being cam bearings (in the last 16 years) 2 were 6.0 non AFM work trucks with bad o-rings and horrible service history and over 200k. The 3rd was a non AFM 5.3. That one was just absolutely nasty.

Don't know if that means anything, just thought I'd share some thoughts.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #82 on:** July 18, 2021, 09:20:42 AM »

Thanks Ken,

So I replaced that oil pressure sender yesterday.

After watching a YouTube where a guy did it without removing the intake, I collected the proper tools and did it. It is one painful job to say the least. Climbing up into the engine bay: Difficult. Reaching around the intake: Very difficult. Working your hand in there to reseat the new sender and hook back up the wire: Absolutely painful. I still have marks on my arm this morning.

So, ya, we are getting to that point where he is questioning keeping it.

Now I will say, the pressure no longer goes to zero. This one now settles on around 5 psi after around 10 min of idling and some revving, which although bad, is better than before. So that has me wondering. Since the oil pressure switch made no difference, the screen below it made no difference, the Oil pump pickup O-ring was noted to be intact before we replaced that, the only other thing I did was to tap the oil filter pressure relief valve. Tapping it will add 5-10 psi to the system I am told, and that's what I am seeing, I think. So that would tell me that that device is working.

That would leave the AFM mani or the cam bushings or the oil pump as the only other likely culprits.

I was thinking I could pull that valley cover, plug the oil ports in the block with those stainless steel pills that tap into the holes and go with that, well, along with deprogramming the AFM/DOD. Pre-Ranger says sell it though, so its a tough sale.

I prefer the devil I know over one I have to pay to learn. Rusty as it is, as many miles as it has, with everything aged, old trans, old rear axle and so forth, If we press forward and just fix this one, I'll have a rusty old vehicle with a new engine, new brakes, new steering, new battery, new LCA, new UCA, new flex brake lines, and who knows what else. he past owner and we have been quite busy replacing things on this truck...

dave945 · « **Reply #83 on:** July 18, 2021, 07:47:24 PM »

Don, can’t remember if you said you checked it or not. Have you verified the gauge is working as expected? I’d hate for your son to get rid of a good truck because of a bad gauge. Guess you could probably verify that with a scanner, right?

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #84 on:** July 18, 2021, 09:16:43 PM »

Quote from: dave945 on July 18, 2021, 07:47:24 PM

Don, can’t remember if you said you checked it or not. Have you verified the gauge is working as expected? I’d hate for your son to get rid of a good truck because of a bad gauge. Guess you could probably verify that with a scanner, right?

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I didn't Dave. I don't have a scanner that can read active oil pressure. Can you believe HP Tuners software doesn't read oil pressure!
We just put it up for sale

dave945 · « **Reply #85 on:** July 18, 2021, 10:34:47 PM »

I can get my hands on a snap on scanner if you want. Wouldn’t hurt to take a look at it.

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JR · « **Reply #86 on:** July 19, 2021, 01:34:21 AM »

I cheap over the counter scanner from HF will do that.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #87 on:** July 19, 2021, 06:23:39 PM »

So, here's the latest
We drove it today
The gage went slowly all the way to zero and the alarms went off
But
There was no lifter ticking noise at all!
Now how can that be???
No oil pressure would cause those lifters to all be ticking and banging away
But that motor sounds great. No lifter noise at all! So how can that be???

EL TATE · « **Reply #88 on:** July 19, 2021, 06:34:52 PM »

that's exactly what happened to Cyndie's rig, and it made it 9 miles to home, but started ticking the next day

Flyin6 · « **Reply #89 on:** July 19, 2021, 11:04:20 PM »

I purchased a pretty good HF scanner, and guess what?
It DOES NOT!!!!!!!!!!!! show oil pressure squat. As in the gage does not show anything related

But I did pull a code P05210

Error Code P0521 is defined as Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance. This is a generic trouble code, meaning it applies to all vehicles equipped with OBD-II system, particularly those made since 1996 up to present. It is particularly common among Cadillac, Chevrolet, Dodge, GMC, Mercedes Benz, and Pontiac models. Specifications on the definition, troubleshooting, and repairs, of course, vary from one make and model to another.

The PCM (powertrain control module, also known as ECM or engine control module in other vehicle makes) is the vehicle’s computer system which controls multiple controls, electronics, and sensors. One of these sensors is the ‘Oil Pressure Sensor’ or ‘Oil Pressure Sender’ which detects the amount of (mechanical) oil pressure in the engine. It relays information through voltage reading value to the PCM. For some vehicles, oil pressure value is relayed to a gauge in the instrument cluster, showing the driver the oil pressure. Sometimes, however, there is no gauge; rather, there will be a warning light to notify the driver about the problem.

EL TATE · « **Reply #90 on:** July 20, 2021, 01:42:47 PM »

My thoughts; if it's not ticking now, after multiple things changed out, oil pressure has varied, when it didn't before, this makes sense to me as the likely culprit. pressure indeed changed when you changed out o rings screens etc. and the faulty gauge is reading those changes, albeit incorrectly, which is why you saw the fluctuations. that oil pressure sending switch has got to be a whole mess cheaper than a teardown and reman situation. I would throw money at that.

KensAuto · « **Reply #91 on:** July 20, 2021, 03:34:30 PM »

He did the sender Tator.

I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.

EL TATE · « **Reply #92 on:** July 20, 2021, 03:49:31 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 20, 2021, 03:34:30 PM

He did the sender Tator.

I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.

Dang.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #93 on:** July 20, 2021, 04:27:48 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 20, 2021, 03:34:30 PM

He did the sender Tator.

I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.

So, Ken, was waiting for you to chime in
What should I do?
It's looking like I should pull the pan again and 1. inspect the cam bearings, look up in there to see if I can see one protruding or not
and/or 2. Replace that oil filter pressure relief valve.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #94 on:** July 20, 2021, 08:24:16 PM »

Have you thought about a lower mileage 5.3 from a salvage yard and swap it?

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stlaser · « **Reply #95 on:** July 20, 2021, 08:56:06 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 20, 2021, 08:24:16 PM

Have you thought about a lower mileage 5.3 from a salvage yard and swap it?

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Just don’t ask Ken if he has a low mileage motor w/ documentation for sale…..

Flyin6 · « **Reply #96 on:** July 20, 2021, 09:03:12 PM »

I think I just sold the thing for $7,000. Gentleman said he would come and get it this Saturday. I explained everything about the oil press problem and told him everything I could think of. He had one like it before and sold that one. Wants to get another...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #97 on:** July 20, 2021, 09:03:33 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 19, 2021, 01:34:21 AM

I cheap over the counter scanner from HF will do that.

JR, as it turns out the $149.99 scanner from HF will not read it. It was the best/biggest they had. Zurich ZR13

cj7ox · « **Reply #98 on:** July 21, 2021, 02:37:00 PM »

So, what's the plan for the PR-O (that's Pre Ranger-Officer)?

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #99 on:** July 21, 2021, 03:12:37 PM »

Give him that Nissan pick em up truck

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