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Congrats man, awesome to see you scored your next piece in the puzzle. So now all you need to do is start wrenching and have fun 8)With that said, we are going to put some miles on the Ramcharger today tooling around. I may go see what I can score that crew local to me for. Not sure why, like I need another Dodge LoL
OK, where does Hank come from??I sure liked AZ when I was on vacation a few times, just to far to get to from here if I need to.
I will be watching as well...... I thought of you yesterday while I spent 45min looking for a radiator overflow reservoir for a pre 93 Dodge pickup in my parts stash. The thought was......."I bet his crew cab has a 12V before mine does at this rate" I am still at bare frame stage... your odd are fair LOL
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
But heck Norm, the target was "June", not specifying which June~!
so are we talking about just straight up died, chugged a bit and died, sputtered and died.................?is there some sort of a safety relay on the trans that would cause it to die.....like when a torq convert goes out......to keep the trans from blowing itself up................?
There is a wire on old Dodges that carries all the ALT voltage through the firewall bulkhead up to the Amp meter, through it, and back into the harness. If I was to guess at a no charge situation I'd be looking at that wire. If it has not been removed/replaced I sure would do so ASAP. It burns down a lot of nice old Dodge trucks. They go bad at the bulkhead or at the Amp Meter it's self usually. Also it could be any one of a half dozen fusible links. The usual fix for this can be found in a Google search....it's a common issue.
quit crying, put some GAA on it, wrap it with 100mph tape, take some motrin and move out and draw fire..........;DYa see, you forgot two things change your socks and make sure you drink enough water. Crying... Just have to learn to work through it!
Butterfly or super glue, then 100 MPH tapeSuperglue, that's my go to for most things, and essential oil.CM
rub some dirt on it and keep moving, bro. Jus sayin....
its a wonder your even alive still sam
Two words. Quick ClotSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bummer on the floor rust....the crew cab floors are a bit different than standard cab floors. By a bit do you mean won't fit without lots of work or just needs a little extra love?The 445 was a optional close ratio 4 spd in the early 70's. It was often ordered for snow plowing and camper hauling. The ratio splits made all 4 gears more useful in a largely "empty" truck. Ie you could use first, and 3rd gear was highway friendly when climbing hills. Gear ratios are 1st 4.56, 2nd 2.28, 3rd 1.31, 4th 1:1. If you had a big block powered Dodge with a slide in camper and did much hill climbing, this was the transmission to use. It is a bit "rare" although I guess in all honesty most people don't have much use for them LoL Especially given the divorced mounting issue, it's range of applications is limited. Works well as a pallet anchor or dirt desk ornament. On a Dodge I think I did mention to you the wisdom of front clip removal before engine yanking. Do make sure to do this on your Cummins truck. Also remove the wiper motor, and the brake line clip on the engine cross-member under the oil pan. You did, sadly I'm an idiot and did not listen or remember, so I made it more difficult that it needed to be. Got it out without breaking anything though, thankfully.Gasket info: Buy a Fel Pro bottom end kit, they work fine with proper installation. In fact, I could argue they work better in so far as the pan gasket/front seal. Anything attached to the head area, buy it from Case-IH/Cummins. Case being much more thrifty BTW. Exception to this rule are the "blue" Fel-pro valve cover gaskets...I use these instead of the Cummins gaskets on my builds with great luck. This is great news, thanks!Kill that KDP, lock tight yr timing cover bolts behind the gears, and toss it in. On the list.I'd contact Hungry Diesel in Idaho and buy one of his low pressure lift pump kits. Go back to Case/IH buy a "nipple" Case IH part #J925954 this will allow you to use a OEM fuel filter, and eliminate the fuel heater you no longer can buy parts for, and always leaks at the worse possible time. (if this hasn't already been done)Thanks for the heads up will add to the list.If looking for something to do while stalled on other aspects of the project... rebuild the OEM starter (if its still on there) and use a "upgrade" http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html read some on that page, you'll get the idea. I highly advise doing this BEFORE it craps. If it doesn't have a OEM starter.... find one LoLDon't know if it is the OEM, will investigate and make note of it.Other little tidbits: The oil seal between the vac pump and the P/S pump usually leaks. Or it will soon....LoL I'd prolly replace that if your keeping the vac boosted brakes. Also label your motor mount brackets/mounts L or R side so you don't confuse them somehow if you remove them...you have no idea how many do this LoLGoing to save the vac boost for the time being, once its driving, ill be upgrading to hydroboost.Oh yeah... tappet cover seal, replace this using a OEM Case/Cummins gasket. This will also leak...and anger you to no end if you don't replace it now. that should keep you busy for a while....On your rust issues...I warned you about this =P Ok... that said, Do yourself a fav now and consider your facilities and skill levels and equipment. If you are ambitious you can use the front half of the floors and firewall from the club cab. A few spot weld cutters, some patience and a lot of grunt work and you'd have a nice solid fix. Another point of interest...IF you also find roof rust....the front half of that club cab roof is the same as the crews...I would first thing...remove every stitch of seam sealer from the roof seams and look close for corrosion. This will fubar your paint...but your in this deep. LoL Roof seam leaks are the #1 cause of floor rust in these trucks, cowl cracks being the second reason... many have both.What sucks about this, is the rust that I found, and small cowl cracks I couldn't have found without taking it apart, sadly. Now, facilities not enough room right now for half cab mating, skills, yea I'd probably make it through it... But it would not look factory I'm afraid. Floor/firewall will be doing the floor for sure, fire wall, have to think about this one. May go the route the orange crew cab did and cut the entire thing out and replace it with 16ga. Seem sealer, Haven't gotten to this yet (cab is getting stripped in the next week or so), but the previous owner said he cleaned it all up when he first got it and re sealed it. Do I believe this, not fully but there is no paint cracking or flaking from the rust in the gutter so its very possible that all my floor problems came from the hidden cowl cracks. I am currently trying to figure out how to juggle two pallets of parts that are being stored on the flat bed, then take the truck out of the garage, cab off then back in garage then everything in its respective spots will be taken down to bare metal to find all issues, issues fixed, then painted. Honestly, wife and I did not want to go this far into it yet, really just wanted to get it running, But the floor is just too much of a cobbled together mess and needs to be fixed correctly, not with rivets and expanding foam. Still have faith in the truck, just have to create a cut and dry fixing plan. What I am saying is..... you may want to hang onto that club cab a while yet. It may turn out to be exactly the parts truck you needed. This is the second time I heard this today, and am most certainly heeding this advice.Norm, as always, thank you for your input it is much appreciated, as I am just a new kid in town with the basic know how of how to be dangerous with a vehicle. Maybe an ambitious project, but when it is wanted by you and your wife, you find a way to make it happen, and that is what I will be doing.