Author Topic: Project LBZ (Read 5947 times)

Sammconn · « **on:** August 23, 2021, 11:05:59 AM »

How it all began.
At approximately 17:11 hrs 15 July 2020, this occurred.

I had said from day one of owning this truck, at 500,000 kms I wanted to do ‘stuff’, HH6 agreed probably thinking there was no way we were keeping it this long. Fast forward from May of 2006 to July 2020.

As pure luck would have it, July 23 2020, I did something to my truck, wasn’t a limp, but something similar from what I later found. I made it very angry and hard to drive. My reader was in mama’s Equinox as it needs codes reset all the time, so I found myself searching for a code reader.
No one had one. My dad suggested my uncle may, and he did. We went to get it to clear my codes and I seen a shiny new to him 2017 Duramax. Asked what happened to the old one, traded it. Long story longer, he was having heating issues towing, shocking for a 15 year old truck right? The stealer wouldn’t commit to any sort of quote, imagine that, so he seen the shiny red 2017 and said screw it.
I suspected a clogged stack, and no concern to me. He let me know it had a new transfer case in it, and a few other things and said he would have no concerns driving other than if towing hard it heats up.
I knew the old one was a Duramax. I was under the impression 2005. So went and had a look that evening after dinner with HH6’s sister and hubby, I was interested in the box, as mine is very sick. Another project for another day, and to my surprise, it had the wrong wheels for an ’05. Quick look at the VIN and is was an ’07… AN LBZ! How convenient.
Went to buy it the following day, and kind of snowballed the salesman. “What can I help you with?” Me ”I’m here to buy Uncle Larry’s old LBZ. I know what you gave him, what’s your bottom line?” He said a number, I looked at him and said “well that’s taxes in then right? As I know you paid him XXX.” He sighed a little and agreed as I knew too much for him to try anything further.

So now I had a complete parts truck, literally. I made arrangements with them to use a dealer plate to get it home when I came back later in the fall. Took it to my parent’s farm to sit until I could drive it home. Deer season came and mamma and I both came out, she and a friend drove my truck back, and I hopped into the new one and did the same. Drove great, seemed strong, but has a nasty kick on bumps. Turns out it has air bags on it that are NS, and likely bottoming out. Also has a hitch in the box, no idea on brand. Parked it an inch from the side of the house for winter, as it was too late to start anything stupid like a motor swap in December.

Called in a favour from my dealership buddy and ran a VIN check.
Pretty minor wrap sheet.
Good to see.

Then 30 Nov, 2020 at approximately 16:21 this happened.

Sammconn · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2021, 11:15:32 AM »

Somewhere the spring of this year, I began the parts procurement process.
Scouring the interwebs for ‘deals’ on the things I needed (read wanted) and actually needed.
Parts started coming to my house and to my son’s as shipping to me isn’t always an option as couriers don’t come here and add 3-400 bucks sometimes to ‘free shipping’.
We’ll play parts a bit:

New manis and up pipes from our friends at PPE.

And a box full of gasket kit, suspension stuff, turbo rebuild.

And let’s not forget serpentine belt and pulley kit.

Sammconn · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2021, 11:22:36 AM »

On 22 May, 2021, my water pump finally finished ‘going’. on my DD truck.
I suspect by the lack of spots now occurring on my driveway, that my water pump started ‘going’ about three years ago.

Thankfully Project LBZ had began, I had a water pump on hand.
Now it was the welded impeller one, destined for the other motor...
I need another water pump now.

Sammconn · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2021, 11:23:57 AM »

19 July 2021, 17:00 hrs:
It has begun.

Had to fight, more than a little to get the fan off. This one was crazy tight by comparison to mine and needed heat, ratchet straps
and all sorts of nonsense not used on my first go round on my daily driver.

A few scrapes and cusses and it yielded and came out.

Immediately after this picture I remembered I was going to wash it off. So back out the door and pressure washed.

Man is this thing FILTHY!
The engine bay needs addressed once the trans is out of the way.
Will be a quick wash and clean up, address anything that needs fixin and move outta the way.

JR · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2021, 03:13:13 PM »

Yes!!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2021, 08:21:20 PM »

This is greag

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2021, 11:03:05 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on August 23, 2021, 11:15:32 AM

Somewhere the spring of this year, I began the parts procurement process.
Scouring the interwebs for ‘deals’ on the things I needed (read wanted) and actually needed.
Parts started coming to my house and to my son’s as shipping to me isn’t always an option as couriers don’t come here and add 3-400 bucks sometimes to ‘free shipping’.
We’ll play parts a bit:

New manis and up pipes from our friends at PPE.

And a box full of gasket kit, suspension stuff, turbo rebuild.

And let’s not forget serpentine belt and pulley kit.

I use those PPE manis and pipes. Very happy with mine

Sammconn · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2021, 11:27:35 PM »

I’m hoping they done effect my tuning.
I forgot to ask John if this was going to matter.

I know when he tuned it back in 2007 he deleted the egr crap.
I hope the increased flow isn’t an issue.

I did ask him about new sticks and he said as long as stock no issue.
Hopefully I do t have to send ecm out for an update.

If I do so be it.
After 300k of trans safe tune I’d say he nailed it.

Sammconn · « **Reply #8 on:** August 24, 2021, 09:49:57 PM »

I took the liberty of removing all the ‘extra crap’ on top of the motor, you know like the turbo inlet, the wiring harness, fuel filter head, and whatever other random bits could be removed while on the engine hoist chains.

Then got to the turbo and eventually the oil pan.

Sammconn · « **Reply #9 on:** August 24, 2021, 09:55:16 PM »

The ‘parts’ pile is getting out of hand. I built a welding table out of saw horses and plywood to store and organize the parts on as this was not good.

Sammconn · « **Reply #10 on:** August 24, 2021, 09:58:05 PM »

The flywheel bolts are crazy tight and require the flywheel lock and while suspended from chains two people. I watched a couple youtubes and found one from a dealership that had a guy on the flywheel and a guy on the harmonic balancer bolt. They did a three count and the bolts went ‘ting’. Turns out with the addition of the flywheel loc to work on the hook too. I tried torching and had to warn my buddy not to touch the flywheel as it was still hot when he came over.

Once free of the flywheel, then the oil pan has to come off, then you can remove the rear cover. Seems like a bad design to me, but it is the way they made it.

Sammconn · « **Reply #11 on:** August 24, 2021, 10:01:43 PM »

And with enough ‘crap’ taken off, I could finally mount it to the engine stand. I now understand why the shops all use the side mound ones now for these engines.

Sammconn · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2021, 10:04:58 PM »

And just got a message that I've reached my taptalk limit for the month.
Crap, y'all gotta wait now...

Might have to VIP it for the month...

Sammconn · « **Reply #13 on:** August 25, 2021, 09:39:13 AM »

Ok.
So to carry on with this.

Parts storage is at a premium so I used one of these to temporarily hold stuff.

Injector return lines off, front cover off, slowly getting to the block.

Sammconn · « **Reply #14 on:** August 25, 2021, 09:43:59 AM »

Can someone tell me how to rotate these pics?
Please and thanks.

I’m either stupid or can’t do it…

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Sammconn · « **Reply #15 on:** August 25, 2021, 09:45:42 AM »

Finally tore down to the block and rotating assembly.

For some reason I didn’t take a picture of the parts piles.
Too bad as it was epic.
That wooden box would not be enough to hold it all protecting those that needed.

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Sammconn · « **Reply #16 on:** August 25, 2021, 10:07:05 AM »

Into the guts we go.
So like curiosity killed the cat, I think we all wanted to know the bearing clearances.

Part of me was going to regardless as I invested heavily in ARP shares over the year and had most of them for the motor.

475,xxx kms or 297,xxx miles.
These look all but new.

Checked all clearances on all mains and rods.

So with .002 - .003” it’s going back together.
Amazing for a 300k motor.

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Sammconn · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2021, 10:07:54 AM »

Well it’s all tore down and really really dirty still. Time to clean parts that will be reused. I started with the normal methods most folks would use, a combo of the Varsol tank and an ultrasonic cleaner. Six hours later I had the bulk of the grease mud and filth removed from most of the parts. I now remember why I hate Varsol so much. The hangover the next day was terrible.

As I looked at the parts the next few days, the stench of Varsol made me consider doing more.
Bring on the kitchen! (And the part some of you thought I was NUTZ)
Parts cam in one box at a time, and went through a combination of sink, ultrasonic, dishwasher and oven as needed to clean and dry them out afterwards. Yes HH6 was aware, and at the cabin so it was of no concern for me.

Sammconn · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2021, 10:10:22 AM »

Everything was clean and grease free at this point and stuff that was still not where I wanted it carried on farther.

Anything oil and fuel related then hit a 225 oven to evaporate any internal moisture and be clean and dry. I may be considered for being a little too anal with my cleaning, however IMO the inside of an engine needs to be without crud.

The final product began to grow in the corner of clean and ready parts.

I kind of believe this is why I have a trust issue with shops. This is what I would expect to happen, and I don’t know if it would be a deliverable from most.

JR · « **Reply #19 on:** August 25, 2021, 11:08:27 AM »

Bob Smith · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2021, 11:22:11 AM »

Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.

stlaser · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2021, 11:53:44 AM »

Quote from: Bob Smith on August 25, 2021, 11:22:11 AM

Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.

My sentiments, I’ll clean it as much as you want to pay…..

Sammconn · « **Reply #22 on:** August 25, 2021, 11:54:47 AM »

Quote from: Bob Smith on August 25, 2021, 11:22:11 AM

Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.

Agreed.
I’d hate to pay the bill for the hours I’ve put in cleaning.

I wish I were still young…well sometimes.
Still am by some standards, wish I were 20-something again.
Those injuries are really starting to take their time.

JR · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2021, 11:58:34 AM »

Had a chance to get a nice washing cabinet and waited (space). Looking again as cleaning is a chore!

Nice work.

Sammconn · « **Reply #24 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:05:24 AM »

The heads went for service, and some dingbat forgot to take and before and after’s of them and now has them on the block.
Sorry gang, my bad there…
But before the heads went back, the cleaning continued.

If you don’t have, invest in a good quality carbide scraper. It peels the old silicone and grease and paint and everything quite very well.
Is a dental pick too far…I think not?

Prep complete, time for some semi-gloss black engine enamel. And boy she looks good!

Sammconn · « **Reply #25 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:08:23 AM »

Next up I installed main stud kit and rod bolts from my ARP box of shares… All gooped up with their ARP lube, seemed like some sort of never seize to me. Rods we torqued to 95 ft/lbs as I do not have a means to measure ‘stretch’ that is their recommended method. If you do, it is 0.007-0.0075”.

Main studs torqued to 125 ft/lbs in three steps, and outside block bolts to 90 ft/lbs in three steps. I chose to Loctite them into the block, right wrong or otherwise...

And of course the obligatory thumbs up and down of new vs. old.
Oh, hey, there’s a pic of the heads after service…holding the scrap metal.

Sammconn · « **Reply #26 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:12:21 AM »

While the engine was upside down, I took the liberty to face the decks and keep the most amount of crud out. I couldn’t find my purchased block sander, so I had to use a trued chunk of oak wrapped in sandpaper. I worked from 150-400 and cleaned the decks up quite well.

Some mid-way cleaning.

And Done.

Sammconn · « **Reply #27 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:14:49 AM »

Next up, I flipped the motor upright and cleaned and painted the top side. The same painstaking steps used on top as the bottom.

The masking tape on the crank washer is not there for any reason other than it's there now. It was part of the masking for the bottom side of the block and I just left it on if I was masking anything in the areal again..

Sammconn · « **Reply #28 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:16:39 AM »

With that the head stud kit was opened, and heads installed and torqued to 175 ft/lbs in three steps on the M12’s and the four little bolts were to 25 ft lbs.

With the heads on and torqued, in went pushrods and rocker assemblies.

Valve las was adjusted per the Merchant Auto instructions. This procedure is noted in many YouTube videos and many instructions as the “go to” for simple setup.
A quick Google-Foo will find the article with this image for adjusting valves. It was quick and easy and on round four all the valves we in spec. there is a ‘feel’ for proper drag, and once you do it a few times you’ll understand.

And with the valves adjusted, on went valve covers. And the big chunk of a motor is starting to re-form on the stand.

Somewhere in here I flipped the block back upside down to install the oil pick-up and new oil pump before it got too top heavy. Sorry, no pics…

Sammconn · « **Reply #29 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:22:33 AM »

Time to clean the CP3. This is the mid-way, it was all black goo when I started.

And as I can’t leave anything without cleaning, so too was the CP3 wiring pigtail cleaned and then re-loomed and taped.

Installed with new O-ring and ready for more pieces.

And there is the shiny new oil pump also.

JR · « **Reply #30 on:** August 26, 2021, 11:16:50 AM »

Flyin6 · « **Reply #31 on:** August 27, 2021, 12:32:06 PM »

Thanks for the writeup Sam!

We all appreciate seeing the process, and we know you as a detail oriented guy.
Inspiring...

Inspirin' me to spend some more $$$$ on something I don't need to spend money on!

Sammconn · « **Reply #32 on:** August 27, 2021, 08:56:59 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 27, 2021, 12:32:06 PM

Thanks for the writeup Sam!
We all appreciate seeing the process, and we know you as a detail oriented guy.
Inspiring...

Inspirin' me to spend some more $$$$ on something I don't need to spend money on!

So….

Got a use for an LBZ do ya…

JR · « **Reply #33 on:** August 28, 2021, 02:29:20 AM »

Don't temp him!!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #34 on:** August 28, 2021, 08:30:28 AM »

Looking great Sam. That far into it did you consider replacing the CP3?

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Sammconn · « **Reply #35 on:** August 28, 2021, 11:21:39 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on August 28, 2021, 08:30:28 AM

Looking great Sam. That far into it did you consider replacing the CP3?

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It did cross my mind.
With so many making many more miles I said no.
It’s not “that bad” to get to considering but not fun either.
I also monitored mine for quite some time and it has yet to falter from well over 26k under any heavy pull I could give it.
Hope that this decision doesn’t bite me…

JR · « **Reply #36 on:** August 29, 2021, 06:25:37 PM »

Minimum, put a cast pan on there to get all the oil out when you change it.

Sammconn · « **Reply #37 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:30:19 AM »

Looks like it's time to play parts again.

So here's new injectors.
The four dollars of dowel pins for the crank.

A new cast flat bottom pan from our friends at PPE.
I have a place in Canada that gets me stuff quick if they have so did it.

And new motor mounts.

There's lots that I've likely misses along the way.

Sammconn · « **Reply #38 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:34:11 AM »

An somehow i missed this on teardown.

This is why EGR crap is bad.
This is thick, and there was buildups over 3/8" in the Y-bridge as well.

Sammconn · « **Reply #39 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:35:46 AM »

Time to close up the intake.
So with the supplied Aluminum gasket flange sealant, on went the controlled beads and then the intake runners were fit to the heads. The instructions were apply bead, install and finger tighten part. Wait ONE HOUR. Then tighten to spec. So that’s how slowly this step went.

So here we wait for the timer to ring and tighten up the fasteners.
The Y-bridge is next up and with new rubber gaskets it was fought into place and tightened in. Then the front horn was installed with two new O-rings and a bit of grease for lube.

I want to say somewhere in here the CP3 came off and on the motor a couple times fitting stuff back together. It was in the way of the Y-bridge…but the horn part…well it was a bit of a pain.
Now with some Tabloid colour photos of the steps to put everything back.
For the record, I didn't take enough photos, and had to one step forward two steps back a couple times.

Sammconn · « **Reply #40 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:39:37 AM »

Now for the oopsie!
When I removed the oil pump gear on disassembly, well…
It’s left hand thread…somewhere I missed that note.
So with the big impact and many “Dugga-Duggas” I realized it was not loosening.
Switched to tighten and voila off came the nut.
So, as a result of this, the gear that’d doweled to the crank, well, it rotated and sheared off the dowel.
So out with the good extractor set and drilled and pulled out the remaining piece.

I don't buy a lot of Snap-on, but some things are worth their 'cost', this is one of them.

You can see what’s left near the tip of the extractor.

Sammconn · « **Reply #41 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:43:46 AM »

So it was time to close up the heads and head work.
Glow plugs were installed (no pics, as we all know about them) and injectors. So here is the box of new to me injectors. I confirmed with my tuner (Kennedy) that it shouldn’t be an issue with the new sticks. I took down all the numbers and locations of the injectors just in case.

The first one out (thankfully) looked odd on the copper. It’s the green looking one. Since I had new ones in the gasket set, I took the liberty to just replace them all just in case. The green one I suspect was missed, but all were replaced.

And all in the motor.

Sammconn · « **Reply #42 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:46:50 AM »

Being the heads were now on and closed up, the front cover was next.
With my new dowel pins, I reinstalled the drive gear, the oil pump gear and tightened it all up without shearing the new pin.
We had been discussing seals and seal savers on Shawn’s build thread and it brought me to be needing seal drivers. Well, I am spoiled according to Ken, I kinda have to agree, and had some made one day…front and rear custom drivers. They do sell them online also for a couple hundo each.

After checking for crankshaft clearance I used the seal driver to install the front main.

Worked like a champ! So Ken, if you have many to do may be worth a bit of time on the lathe, I think Kyle was about an hour for both. Was less than a minute to install.

JR · « **Reply #43 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:48:42 AM »

New to you injectors, as in new removed from stock motor?

Nice idea on the pan. Why did they design the stock so bad. Would have loved to see the gook in yours.

Nice fancy extractors. You running stock breathers or the fancy billet adapters?

Sammconn · « **Reply #44 on:** August 30, 2021, 11:54:42 AM »

Quote from: JR on August 30, 2021, 11:48:42 AM

New to you injectors, as in new removed from stock motor?

Nice idea on the pan. Why did they design the stock so bad. Would have loved to see the gook in yours.

Nice fancy extractors. You running stock breathers or the fancy billet adapters?

Injectors are re-mans from the shop that did my heads, they didn't do them, only supplied them for me.
Traded in the originals on these ones.

The pan was actually not bad surprisingly, no real 'pile of gook' as i would have also expected.
There is no doubt this is why the new oil is immediately 'dirty' after a change tho, as it did have a lot of oil left in it.

Almost all remaining stock, it's just easier for me as I don't have access to parts in a day, and one dealer can generally get me stuff in three days.
Worst case i have had to Air Freight stuff, but that is SPENDY, and not necessarily same day anymore either as our flights have been screwed over by the dempanic as well.

JR · « **Reply #45 on:** August 30, 2021, 12:02:49 PM »

A solid tune, no EGR and pipes will really open that thing up! Surprised how small the intake "Y" is stock.

Loosing the heater to, seems like a big restriction and you glow plugs? ( #3 on mine is bad again)

Sammconn · « **Reply #46 on:** August 30, 2021, 12:07:40 PM »

I was actually surprised how small all the ports were as well, they seemed smaller than SBC ports.

Yeah, I've got a solid gold custom tune so looking forward to the new manis and up pipes and what difference they make.
My tune didn't delete the heater, so that code will come up right now, I would like to get rid of it however, as it does absolutely squat.
I disconnected it one cool winter morning at about -30 or so, and found the CEL came on, but zero impact on operation.

I re-used the glow plugs, I've changed all of them once in the truck and didn't have issues, so figures to save a few bucks there and spent them on the oil pan.

JR · « **Reply #47 on:** August 30, 2021, 12:21:20 PM »

The "delete" is the important part. Heater runner imho makes weird turns and is restrictive and a new pipe is not crazy $$$.

Still great work, makes me want to keep and eye out for a motor, but to many fires going!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 30, 2021, 12:51:52 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on August 30, 2021, 11:39:37 AM

Now for the oopsie!
When I removed the oil pump gear on disassembly, well…
It’s left hand thread…somewhere I missed that note.
So with the big impact and many “Dugga-Duggas” I realized it was not loosening.
Switched to tighten and voila off came the nut.
So, as a result of this, the gear that’d doweled to the crank, well, it rotated and sheared off the dowel.
So out with the good extractor set and drilled and pulled out the remaining piece.

I don't buy a lot of Snap-on, but some things are worth their 'cost', this is one of them.

You can see what’s left near the tip of the extractor.

That is a handy part number...Thinking we should make a post of just this extractor kit over in "tools" (Not talking democrats...)

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 30, 2021, 10:40:32 PM »

Oh man this has been a metal treat to follow! Thank you

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