Project LBZ

[Sammconn]

With the front cover back on, it was time to start building up the mess of everything else on the motor. The first thing I tackled was the oil pressure and oil level harness. The wire loom was falling apart and was all replaced.



This is routed under the drivers head (location in front not actually under) and behind the cooling wye that comes part way through all the mess of stuff. If you forget this, you will then have to remove a few fuel lines, the coolant wye and re-route this harness…words of wisdom and a little PSA there.
I started laying in the hard parts and slowly built everything back to original layout. Order is very important and I only had a couple spots to back up a step and then add in the missing bit.



With fuel rails in loosely, all fuel lines fitted I torqued them all down to a seemingly loose 30 ft/lbs.



New rubber everywhere and you can even see how I tried to keep that wiring harness in along the lower head level…

[Sammconn]

Well lookie here, I need to put the turbo back on now…
Guess it’s time to go through it.
I’ve never done one of these, so time for some google foo, and YouTube.
Cold side split, and you can see the soot and goo from the EGR and PCV.



Cold side completely removed, we can see the thrust bearing now.



I then cringed a lot as I tried to split the hot side. Every part of striking cast with a hammer and chisel is just so wrong. But slowly the gap began to appear, and once it was moving it popped apart without issue. The hot side was surprisingly clean and free moving.



Being that I’m a hydraulic generating station guy, I looked at the ‘cute little wicket gates’ (the variable vanes) and laughed to myself some.

Fully open.



Fully closed.



Very free movement and really not that dirty.

[Sammconn]

But, time to clean up the housing. Some heat signatures left behind, but no pitting, no concerns (at least to me).



On to the center section, the turbine shaft did not want to come out. A quick little tap with a rubber mallet, and the coking released and the shaft came out.
The thrust bearing is a 270* design and the new one is a 360* design.
The bushings and spacer came off, then I could address the coking and change the oil ring.







You can see the coking at the turbine wheel.



Coking all removed, oil ring removed and everything looks good.



And of course everything was cleaned to an ER state.

[Sammconn]

Now, I may regret this later, but I left the variable vane controller and actuator alone. It moved freely, did not bind and I can’t afford to be down a turbo with the swap a few days away. So I left that part out, and for those curious, I don’t have a good center section picture, but there are two plugs to remove, the actuator assemble and the VPS. There are about 10 odd O-rings to replace, then hope to get it all back together not leaking and still functioning.
So with that decision made, time to assemble.
Everything got a slathering of fresh 0W-40 synthetic oil as the parts went together.
First up, the oil ring re-installed with a new one from the kit.



New bushing and spacer stack and more oil.



Slid into the center section, with a little oomph to get the oil ring into the housing.

[Sammconn]

Once I got started assembly I didn’t snap many pics.
One pose along the way as I tapped the hot side sections together, well it was posed after.
I'll also add, that I had to split it apart again, as I neglected to put the v-band clamp on prior to mating the halves...



Assembled.



Installed.

[JR]

Nice 

Guess that soot and oil will not be an issue now.

Still think a wicked wheel would have been great.

[Sammconn]

Nice 

Guess that soot and oil will not be an issue now.

Still think a wicked wheel would have been great.

It probably would have been good.
I'd have to check with the tuner tho, as the more I do the closer to a re-tune I get.
I was ok with the manis and pipes, not sue if the WW would be too much or not.
Probably not, but we all know how an oil change goes...

[Sammconn]

So next up I got a bit excited and installed the long-awaited new PPE manifolds and up pipes.
I think somewhere I mis-labeled this Project LBZ, as it is clearly an LB7 based on the exhaust set-up.



Bolted right up like they should and tightened to a menial 39 and 42 ft/lbs.
Need a snipe and six of your friends to undo them…

[Sammconn]

In my excitement, I realized the oil cooler was not on…
So, as earlier stated my not so complete engine gasket set had let me down again, so in rushed my GM online parts again.
For anyone keeping score, these were not in the “complete Duramax Gasket Set” either:
About forty bucks from the General, so not horrible I suppose. Maybe normal folk don’t take it apart either? Dunno, I don’t fit many molds these days.



The innards and case half.



New gaskets.



Cooler halves assembled and torqued. I should give a shout out to Longhorn Fab guys, as they have a really complete torque spec sheet online for anyone else that goes all in.



It was installed with new O-rings, under the just installed drivers’ manifold…
If only I’d have done it first would be so much easier. And no picture as I was frustrated with my oversight and enthusiasm to get the manis on.

[Sammconn]

Next I tackled the LB7 conversion for the intake piping. Still frustrated I forgot to snap a lot of pics. It was a ‘cheap amazon find’ but had nicely machined parts that fit. No instructions, so with some trial and error figured it all out.



The riser mounts where some LBZ parts used to be to fill the gap and fasten the intake piping to the motor.



With this done, the pink rag was positioned as it is much more visible for later than the gray one I had been using.
It’s getting to be go time, and I found some of the special molded hoses I’m going to need to buy. The good news, with the LB7 set up, I can carry on and install them later without interference.

[JR]

Is there a part number on the pass up pipe? I may need one and no answer from PPE.

[Sammconn]

Is there a part number on the pass up pipe? I may need one and no answer from PPE.

Not that I noticed.
I'll take a look tonight to be sure.

[TexasRedNeck]

Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ.  Not sure I’ve run across that.


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[JR]

Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ.  Not sure I’ve run across that.

No EGR up pipe.

[Sammconn]

That’s the upgrade yep!

No part numbers on the uppipe JR.

[TexasRedNeck]

Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ.  Not sure I’ve run across that.

No EGR up pipe.

Yeah I don’t have any of that garbage.


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[Sammconn]

Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ.  Not sure I’ve run across that.

No EGR up pipe.

Yeah I don’t have any of that garbage.


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Me either now.
:)

[Sammconn]

Time for some wiring harness action.
Oh hey, there’s the oil cooler.



With the harness slung over the motor, I loosely attached it with the three mounting screws.
Y’all know what’s next, and there is A LOT OF WIRES on these motors…



Slowly and methodically I cut open, R&R’d the old loom and re-taped it back together.
The whole motor was covered with a couple fleece jackets to keep the dirt and crud off.







All the way in…and slowly building back up.

[Sammconn]

Well shoot, now we've caught up to my story, and reality for that matter.

With the wiring harness all reworked it was time to get to the rear cover and oil pan.





Gasket silicone applied and rear cover positioned.

[Sammconn]

Oh, so when I put that oil cooler on after the manifolds instead of before....
Well it has to come off to get the corner bit in tight to the rear cover, then tight to the cooler.



With the rear cover torqued in went the rear main.
I'm not happy with it, hence the call to Ken or anyone who can tell me replace it if it needs.
The felt 'crinkled up' and I know that's not the seal, but it's not exactly a simple fix if I've buggered it up.



And as wrong as it felt the whole time I was under the suspended on a hoist motor, the oil pan was also installed silicone rested, and then torqued.



As of this writing, y'all are caught up to the reality of where this build currently sits.
This last picture was taken at 21:XX last night when it was too late to start the lower pan with a zero six start time at work.
I'm old and need my beauty rest  some of that may be true...

Now;

I'm on the fence about starting the swap this weekend. I should.
It's our last long weekend of summer, we start our shutdowns at work on Monday night, and it's supposed to rain.
I'm not made of sugar, so if it does rain I'll likely start.
If it doesn't, I may stay at the lake.
I need it done and tested prior to 2 Oct as it will be heading south then.
And somewhere in about there or soon after winter starts in these parts.

[Flyin6]

Attention to detail is definitely there, kudos to you!

[Bigdave_185]

Curious why not out an upgraded turbo on this?


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[TexasRedNeck]

Sam,  is it my imagination or does the water from the oil cooler travel through a passage in the rear housing/cover?:??


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[Sammconn]

Sam,  is it my imagination or does the water from the oil cooler travel through a passage in the rear housing/cover?:??


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Sure does. It is a really odd setup when first looking.

[Sammconn]

Curious why not out an upgraded turbo on this?


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Dave, I wanted to at 30k when I tuned the truck.
Was having all kinds of turbo related codes.
Was all the stealership.

The stock motor and all associated are good for 600-650.
Which is pretty darned good.

If I upgrade it will be twins so no need to do anything now.
Also, different turbo certainly would have meant new tuning.
And I can’t drive to Wisconsin yet, and I like to do a dyno tune again.

[Bigdave_185]

Fair enough.  I like the twin setup and would really like to drive one and see how real world application it is for me


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[Flyin6]

I installed that Fleece single (larger) turbo and am pretty happy with it. It does take a tad longer to spool, but when it does it really hits hard. Climbing long hills at 65, just roll in a bit more and this huge surge of power just catapults the truck forward. Not looking back, I like this larger turbo, and mine does not have the hissing vanes. Its just a straight up turbo.

[JR]

I still think a WW would be sweet. Just spools faster from what I hear and the VV does the rest.

Looks good, to bad all those wires have to bugger it up.

You pulling cab to swap?

[Sammconn]

Ok. Back to this thing.

My nuther new rear main, some more new bolts and the fancy tightly bent rubber hoses all showed up.

So out with the old new rear main.
Somewhere I saw a guy run screws into the seal.
Didn’t watch the whole thing but knew by the bite the screw got that a nail puller would work.



It pulled through the shaft protector so I threaded them back in and repeated.



Then. With much more attention. In went the new new seal.



I then installed the turbo coolant bent hose.



And the fuel return U-turn hose.



I’ve cleaned up the driveway some now and with any luck stuff will start falling out of my truck tomorrow.

Would have been today, but alas work got in the way and ruined the morning. Now I have a new employee showing up in about an hour so I’ll have to get him settled into his apartment. Then off to the lake for the evening to have dinner with mama and repeat.
0500 it is quite cool and dark to be boating. Lol. But gonna do it again tomorrow.

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[Sammconn]

I still think a WW would be sweet. Just spools faster from what I hear and the VV does the rest.

Looks good, to bad all those wires have to bugger it up.

You pulling cab to swap?

Not pulling the cab.
I think that will be far more work.
Aside from not having a lift and all that good stuff, it really isn’t “that” bad.


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[Sammconn]

So started stripping stuff out for initial pressure wash.
Found the source of my exhaust smell in the cab.
Can’t complain really, been on since about 40k.
And as you can see by rest of the truck, we’ll it’s a truck.



This thing is a bit oily and greasy everywhere too.


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[JR]

Those conditions do a job on things, don't they?

I don't miss MN weather at all.

[Sammconn]

So slowly pushing along.

We have a unit out at work, so my time has been sparse the past two weeks.
Should be done Saturday if all goes well. Then I’ll have more time for a few days.



The pressure washing sure made things look rough. I’ll address that once the motor is out.



Passenger side all ready, save for torque converter bolts. Starter ready to pull once exhaust off.



Drivers side couple more checks.
Fuel lines, trans bell housing and TC all that’s left.

On a side note, torsion bolts came out without issue. Shocked I was to say the least.

Planning to drop the front end nearly to the ground to pull motor. Will remove key nuts if needed and suspension bumps too.

Need to keep this condenser attached if I can.


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[Bigdave_185]

She looks like some salty miles for sure!!!


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[Sammconn]

I don’t see salt up here generally. Not used at home occasionally see it when I go south.  Too cold at home for salt. Lol.

It is just a lot of rock and sandblasting from gravel however.
Probably 100k is gravel miles.
And I wish I were kidding.

[Flyin6]

But...

Almost all of that will pressure wash clean.

I'd actually think of doing that and lathering down some good frame coating and shooting the inside of all the steel panels/frame with some cosomoline derivative

[Sammconn]

But...

Almost all of that will pressure wash clean.

I'd actually think of doing that and lathering down some good frame coating and shooting the inside of all the steel panels/frame with some cosomoline derivative

It does pressure wash well for sure.
I even found some of that black wax type crap still in a few spots!
Shiny bare metal underneath still.

I don’t have nearly enough POR-15 but will be getting more.
I had the lawn sprinkler running under the mid section for a few hours.
Pea gravel left now to get out. So I’ll do it again a couple more times to get the fines out the it should be easy enough
I do plan to clean it all up and some form of newly applied coating inside.
POR-15 all of the accessible stuff.
Then rubberized undercoat it all.
This all may be a next summer project other than the engine bay.
I have phase whatever planned for the body… some is very rough.

I have about two weeks to get this one done to give me enough time to get the other back to a runner before winter.

[Sammconn]

Well got a few more bolts out tonight before the torrential downpour.

Me and FaceTime were able to remove the torque converter bolts.

Dropped one. Somewhere.
It will turn up.
Can’t find my good magnet.
That will bite me later I’m sure.



This worked surprisingly well.
Rolled motor to next hole.
Wiggled on to bolt head remove amd repeat.


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[Sammconn]

Then removed the downpipe.
It’s toast. And with it gone trans bolts are easy on passenger side.





This is a Pro Fab pipe.
In no way do I blame the condition on materials or workmanship. The turbo end is proof positive that it is a sound unit.
It failed from sandblasting and lack of being washed I suspect. Other than the end not protected it is still 99% I would wager.

Then the rain hit.
Four more easy bolts and the top one left on the trans.
Will be out soon.


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[JR]

 

[Sammconn]

So pressing forward.

This got very real to HH6.




I started by taking the jack stands out and dropping the front.



Flipped the hood to maintenance position and like magic out came the ole 6.6.





It’s a balmy 45 degrees currently.
Actually the best temp to be working IMO.


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[Sammconn]

With the motor out I could finally see how bad my mess was.



300+ k miles adds out to a mess for sure.



Pressure washed the heck out of it for about 20 minutes. Let some simple green soy for a bit and hit it again.
Cleaned up well enough to call ready to start ah cleanin’ and ah fixin’ all the ole stuff.
It needs to dry and I need more quoffee so here I am.


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[JR]

Cleaned up nice. Going to blob any paint in there ??

If the steering box is loose, good time to address as wheel as the stabilizer.

[Bigdave_185]

Lord have mercy on us!!

That looks like a rough road truck for sure!


That uppipe makes me wonder how much was caused by the heat wrap holding water on the pipes?


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[Sammconn]

Cleaned up nice. Going to blob any paint in there ??

If the steering box is loose, good time to address as wheel as the stabilizer.

Paint. Wire loom. Tape.
More cleaning.

Then cognito steering brace kit.
Then tighten the steering box up some.

Good ole oil change. 

[Sammconn]

Lord have mercy on us!!

That looks like a rough road truck for sure!


That uppipe makes me wonder how much was caused by the heat wrap holding water on the pipes?


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Now that you say that Dave, I’ll do an autopsy on it.
It’s in the can already but now I’ll open it up.

[KensAuto]

Just got caught up on your journey. Wasn't it common to put an LBZ intake on an LB7 to help with cooling? Or was that just the elbow? Maybe neither and I'm nuts?

[TexasRedNeck]

Ken I believe it was the LLY that had problems


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[JR]

You put the LBZ intake elbow on the LB7, better flow. LLY, same as the LBZ cept tuning for the 06-07, 05 was a diff motor but still called an LLY.

Just saw a 06 LBZ for 12,5. Seems a little low even for 300k.

[Sammconn]

Ken I believe it was the LLY that had problems


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I think Charles has it.