Author Topic: Spartan part 2, Suburban build. (Read 17892 times)

JR · « **Reply #200 on:** May 09, 2021, 01:12:17 AM »

If I can knock the mounts out tomorrow, then cut all the front rivets out I will be happy.

Finish with a good hot pressure wash and its reassembly time!

May have a slight issue with the exhaust on the pass side, very close to the rear hanger.

stlaser · « **Reply #201 on:** May 09, 2021, 10:07:47 AM »

I like the steering shaft upgrade

JR · « **Reply #202 on:** May 09, 2021, 01:17:13 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on May 09, 2021, 10:07:47 AM

I like the steering shaft upgrade

$15 at PnP, grinder, propane torch, 20 min and no more rag joint.

JR · « **Reply #203 on:** May 11, 2021, 10:48:17 PM »

Finally got the new mounts in. Much beefier than the OEM rubbers.

Pass was pretty easy, just dirty. Has a 1/2 spacer in there for what I don't know, not OEM.

Was actually a nice anodized unit, no corrosion.

JR · « **Reply #204 on:** May 11, 2021, 11:25:41 PM »

Driver side would not come out. Had to remove the frame mount for the mount itself.

Diff design on this side, got a good cleaning and paint. Tac welded this side vs the zip ties.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #205 on:** May 12, 2021, 08:40:39 AM »

JR, are we going to hear this thing clacking away on the trail?

JR · « **Reply #206 on:** May 12, 2021, 11:57:21 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on May 12, 2021, 08:40:39 AM

JR, are we going to hear this thing clacking away on the trail?

Runs now, but on the road in a couple days. Wife is home sick.

Today I blow those rivets off. Mount the DIY4x B52s, springs and axle. Bleed some brakes and thats it.

Besides the rivets, hardest job will be cleaning the inner fenders.

Next comes the front bumper, but I can drive without that.

JR · « **Reply #207 on:** May 12, 2021, 07:53:26 PM »

Getting those back was a pain, big hands and little room. Didn't need the spacer with the polys in there.

Lubed the body mount bolts up for a couple days and they came out clean. Blocked the body and torched everything off from the outside never hitting the frame direct. Air hammer and viola!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #208 on:** May 12, 2021, 09:09:52 PM »

I have watched videos about the scarf tip for torches. Need to find and buy one

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JR · « **Reply #209 on:** May 13, 2021, 01:15:28 AM »

Got mine on amazon, 1/3 the price of stores. I like doing local business, but all we have here are people who want $$.

Found a great place in Sparks now and I go to Napa other wise. (city)

JR · « **Reply #210 on:** May 13, 2021, 02:40:38 AM »

Got it all cleaned up, painted and made a template of the area for future add ons.

These B52s go on real easy. All hardware and is grade 8 with flange bolts. Lock nuts are either a welded strip or tabbed so no wrench needed. My new Dewalt 3/8 XR did great job.

JR · « **Reply #211 on:** May 13, 2021, 02:44:19 AM »

Bolted them up in the rear position ( 2 options for longer springs) and snugged it all up.

Cleaned up the body bushings and dropped it all down, fit great. Ready for springs tomorrow.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #212 on:** May 13, 2021, 06:39:35 AM »

Looking good

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #213 on:** May 13, 2021, 10:23:47 AM »

Really nice JR!

JR · « **Reply #214 on:** May 13, 2021, 05:55:00 PM »

BTW, I did not have to enlongate or drill out 1 hole, all 8 bolts on each side lined up. Quality. Even came with the big spring bolt but not greaseable, which I will be using.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #215 on:** May 14, 2021, 09:33:03 AM »

I have a sweet spot for old suburban's.
And this Detroit diesel has long interested me.
I know it's no Cummins and certainly not a duramax, but it is old school simple.
Looking at it from a survivalist standpoint. Find one with a 6.2, then replace that with the biggest inch short block (or even a built 6.2) keep the 6.2 injection system, but add a turbo and you have a truck with decent torque and needs no electrics to run. (Like after an EMP).

My favorites, though are the next generation with the independent suspension. That burb with a 2"-3" lift and 33" tires with an updated interior...That would be a cool project.

Right after I ever get my gasser dialed in!
;-((

JR · « **Reply #216 on:** May 14, 2021, 01:30:32 PM »

I had a 96, but gas. They did come with 6.5 turbo and were electronic, crept the 90-92.

JR · « **Reply #217 on:** May 21, 2021, 12:27:14 AM »

Fixed the pan today, well I tried too. Sanded off the pan to weld some studs on.

Pulled out the body welder and it was DOA. Opened it up and found 2 wires just hanging loose. Easy fix anyway.

JR · « **Reply #218 on:** May 21, 2021, 12:36:18 AM »

After the quick repair I welded a few studs on. Pan was pushed in about 1/4-3/8 which may not have been an issue but it would have always bugged me.

You could hear the oil sizzle when I popped the studs on. Worked side to side, then to center with the included slide hammer and it popped out nice.

Ground off the studs, sanded smooth and painted with rustolium. Also cleaned up the trans cooling lines. They rubbed on everything and 1 was almost touching a belt. Not perfect, but not rubbing or on the crossover either.

Guess it is time for springs and the front axle

Flyin6 · « **Reply #219 on:** May 21, 2021, 08:29:50 AM »

Man, that's meticulous!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #220 on:** May 21, 2021, 07:26:08 PM »

Well done!!

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JR · « **Reply #221 on:** May 23, 2021, 12:05:31 AM »

Well, got as far as getting the springs mounted. Need to fix a shock mount and ready to bolt on.

With the front mounts and the angled rear shackles I am mounting the stock springs in the rear holes. This still pushes the axle about 1-2 inches forward.

Have a slight interference issue with the hokey exhaust, just rubs the grease zert on the lower spring. Clearance it a little but think I will need to tweak a little more.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #222 on:** May 24, 2021, 09:29:11 AM »

Looking better all the time!

Wonderful, bringing this old driver back to life!

JR · « **Reply #223 on:** May 24, 2021, 11:31:53 PM »

Making good headway here.

Trimmed the body washers since now they don't clear the DIY4x mounts. I have no complaints though.

Made a new shock mount for the pass side. Used the old shackles. Not perfect but this a temp axle.

Also fixed the drivers spring perch. Mount was all wobbled out but since the mig was out, short work. Was concave too, but the torch was handy and a tire iron worked great.

JR · « **Reply #224 on:** May 24, 2021, 11:43:49 PM »

Used the hot pressure washer, this thing will spoil you.

I bought a role of 2 1/2 teflon sometime back, made new scuff plates with it.

Always fun fighting ubolts. How come they NEVER line up with the plates! Leaving the sway off for right now, see how it drives. Stock won't work with the 60 and crossover steering anyway.

Took it off the stands under the frame seeing how the springs sit. Sure there will be more give.

Bled the new front calipers (need to flush the rear too) and hooked up the steering.

JR · « **Reply #225 on:** May 24, 2021, 11:46:25 PM »

Going to see how much it settles as the drag link still has a little to much angle for my taste. I already have have the "lift steering arm) so I may need a block or and "S" link.

Looking at the drive shaft angle too. I might be OK as there is a cardan up on the TCase. Still thinking a shim might be needed bring the yoke up.

Tomorrow is shocks and tires, it will drive!!!

Remember most of this is temp. I need another driver now so I can get the Dmax for the overland trip.

JR · « **Reply #226 on:** May 26, 2021, 12:12:37 AM »

Decided 1 more day before the wheels/tires.

Power washed the fenders, coated what little corrosion there was with rust inverter/primer. Good coat of paint and undercoating inside the wheel well.

Found with the new springs, drivers side is an inch lower than pass?? Shocks weren't that bad so I used the long shocks in the short side to get me by for now. New Monroe steering stabilizer too.

Centered the steering wheel, toe in was dead on so good there.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #227 on:** May 26, 2021, 12:29:51 AM »

Brand new springs one was 1” off?

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JR · « **Reply #228 on:** May 26, 2021, 01:15:16 AM »

Not sure really. They are 6 inch lift springs I had a military wrap added on. I removed the short leaf on the bottom too.

They looked OK but on the truck one side is off by 1 inch. See after they settle some, only went down an inch with weight on them.

JR · « **Reply #229 on:** May 27, 2021, 01:07:22 AM »

Teaser,,,,,,,,,

Flyin6 · « **Reply #230 on:** May 27, 2021, 09:59:37 AM »

Which one:

1. Pullin a wheelie...

2. Cali rake

3. no lift on the rear yet

(I vote numba 2, knowin' JR...)

Sammconn · « **Reply #231 on:** May 27, 2021, 03:05:43 PM »

I’m with the boss.

But.
Progress is progress.
No idea what to suggest for the lateral lean.

Keep at it JR you’ll get it done.

JR · « **Reply #232 on:** May 27, 2021, 03:14:48 PM »

Front is 3 inches higher than rear for now.

4 inch blocks in back, stock springs. Have a shackle flip and new lift springs for rear.

Front springs are 6 inch, plus the 1 inch rear shackle. Feels a little stiff right now.

I trimmed the wells and have ample clearance, even for 37s. Issue with square body's and the axle move forward some.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #233 on:** May 27, 2021, 06:40:12 PM »

That looks good man. Love me some square body burb

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #234 on:** May 27, 2021, 06:47:40 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on May 27, 2021, 06:40:12 PM

That looks good man. Love me some Cali Lean

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FIFY

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #235 on:** May 27, 2021, 08:25:25 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on May 27, 2021, 06:47:40 PM

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on May 27, 2021, 06:40:12 PM
That looks good man. Love me some Cali Lean

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FIFY

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No no no.

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JR · « **Reply #236 on:** May 28, 2021, 12:12:35 AM »

Stance is better after I filled the rear tires, they were about 20lb low! Rake is about 1-2 inches which I believe will work out with a little driving. Love the front clearance and stance.

Moved it around and found a couple issues, nothing big. Started right up like a champ.

Was hard to move, trans was several quarts low. Will probably just change the filter and add a shift kit.

Found what may be a leak in the front left caliper. Maybe a seal but still checking.

After I let it warm up and stopped it, there was oil dripping from the turbo downpipe. Turbo is clocked funny, oil and drain are 45* which is not ideal, but not sure if I can address that as is.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #237 on:** May 28, 2021, 10:00:01 AM »

Side view

The JR "Kali" burb!

Yee haw!

Well, not yee-haw, that's like a foreign language in the republic. Trouble is I don't know that language, but I's think I should say somethin' like

"Whoa, Braaaa, that's rad"

JR · « **Reply #238 on:** June 01, 2021, 12:35:39 AM »

Was curios as the wheelbase now. Stock for the suburbans is 129.5, mine is 132, so I gained a whole bunch there!

JR · « **Reply #239 on:** June 02, 2021, 01:56:32 PM »

Turbo question guys. I had oil come out the exhaust last time I ran it. I mean it ran down the outside of the pipe after running.

Figure it needs a rebuild, but I want to optimize what I have for now. So thinking a "kit" is around $30, cartrige is around $125, add a better turbo wheel another $100, whole turbo with wheel, $300.

I also what to clean up the inlet and found some adapters that will work. Also an inlet that smooths out the intake.

I am not looking for dmax power, just let it run good. Should I cheap on it for now or sink a few $$$ into it? It does not run bad now.

JR · « **Reply #240 on:** June 02, 2021, 02:33:36 PM »

This need fixing, looking at these parts besides the turbo fix.

KensAuto · « **Reply #241 on:** June 02, 2021, 03:51:33 PM »

3 bills for a whole turbo doesn't sound bad and saves labor.
Not sure if you'd notice much difference with the elbows.

JR · « **Reply #242 on:** June 02, 2021, 08:07:30 PM »

Elbows now are 2 inch and do not match the T3 flange even close. The above are 3 and I just found some 2.5 which I like better to keep the flow up. If you saw how bad these are you would cringe. There is also a huge metal support in all that. I may have to add another support anyway, but much cleaner.

$300 turbos are just that. I just found a used GM I am going to try. also bought the inlet to clean the mess up.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #243 on:** June 03, 2021, 10:03:52 AM »

Quote from: JR on June 02, 2021, 01:56:32 PM

Turbo question guys. I had oil come out the exhaust last time I ran it. I mean it ran down the outside of the pipe after running.

Figure it needs a rebuild, but I want to optimize what I have for now. So thinking a "kit" is around $30, cartrige is around $125, add a better turbo wheel another $100, whole turbo with wheel, $300.

I also what to clean up the inlet and found some adapters that will work. Also an inlet that smooths out the intake.

I am not looking for dmax power, just let it run good. Should I cheap on it for now or sink a few $$$ into it? It does not run bad now.

I'd go for the best flowing, biggest thing that makes the most power. More everything in diesels = more economy. Better off improving economy since that motor will never make any power...Sorry buddy, but it is what it is, and what it is is a pretty good running base/old school diesel engine that will still be running after the NK EMP bombs.

JR · « **Reply #244 on:** June 03, 2021, 11:02:33 AM »

Yep, it will never be a DMax, but a little more is nice. I have to be careful with boost and the stock 6.2=higher comp. I "may' actually stud the motor without pulling the heads.

JR · « **Reply #245 on:** August 26, 2021, 12:34:15 AM »

Been doing little things. Started with getting the steering wheel straight using a line on the tires.

JR · « **Reply #246 on:** August 26, 2021, 12:36:24 AM »

Pulled the turbo intake off. Next come the mount, just a mess.

Removed the lift pump that was hidden under the intake.

JR · « **Reply #247 on:** August 26, 2021, 12:38:12 AM »

Pulled the stock filter assm off will get a spin on.

JR · « **Reply #248 on:** August 26, 2021, 12:42:11 AM »

The DIY turbo mount is a joke. Using parts from amazon and ebay. So much out there, just concerned with clearance. Don't have room to move it up.

Also getting a new exhaust, This thing twists and is the way everywhere. Will pretty much go down and straight back and dump IFO the rear wheel.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #249 on:** August 26, 2021, 11:25:57 AM »

That c clamp GM approved ?

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