REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => What are you building? => Topic started by: Bigdave_185 on October 09, 2015, 10:19:49 PM
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Ok fellas. I have posted this photo before I will again for example (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/09/db5cfd23aa9470d3152b6f21f1128ea5.jpg)
From left to right. Being right side of my black tool box to the wall is 7 feet. 2 feet minimum away from the wall for depth. My plan is to box in my compressor with a work bench.
I have since removed the wheels and blocks ( hockey pucks will be here tomorrow ) to save me some height restrictions.
1. What height should I make the bench assuming I have any choice of height I want. Standing. Not sitting
2. What wood from the local Home Depot should I use for my top.
3. Should I do vertical supports to the ground or should I do angled to the wall then I have floor space ?
4.What have you all used in the past to mount a vice to the bench?
I have a vice it's kinda small 3 inch jaws. I want a bigger one. Harbor freight cheapos ok?
5. One of my favorite finds was and is my bench grinder it's amazing! What should I do to mount it to my bench?
6.What good ideas can we come up with for the debris that comes out of the back of the grinder? My previous set up made a terrible mess of my painted garage walls and my bench.
7. I want to use peg board on the back wall and maybe screw a sheet of wood to the bottom of the metal cabinet so I can attach a work light of some kind. Changes or other thought I should consider?
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Measurements in cabinet height tomorrow
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Found a free min.
Ok the from floor to top of the a/c is 37 inches. The widest part of the a/c is 2ft.
The wall and the tool box is seven feet.
The metal shelves are 57 inches from the floor. Now that I look at this I think the bench will have a L shape to is down the side of the garage.
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Remember you are going to need airflow around that compressor.
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What would you define air flow as. ? I had given thought to mounting a fan on the back portion ( cpu size ) for extra air but have since though that would be overkill.
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I'd flip it around so the pulleys are against the wall to keep little fingers and such outta there.....
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I'd flip it around so the pulleys are against the wall to keep little fingers and such outta there.....
As the compressor sits now. In order for me to plug in to power I have to move the dryer and plug in behind that. I have just enough power cord to make the reach if I turned it I would not. However the black shroud has some pretty good coverage
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Might replace the cord with a heavier longer one.
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The final hope is to add some power behind it.
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How would you all feel about a pig tail cord for 220. As a smaller length of cord? A splice in the wire seems shady. But if I got another four feet or so I could add two more plugs and use sort of an extension cord to flip the compressor around
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I think you should wire a plug-in to the home system so you aren't moving the dryer and adding extension cords each time you need to use it. It will be ready to go whenever you need air.
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dave, can you give us a pic from a farther distance......so we can see all around the area that you are wanting to build this in.....?
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/4b3e1bc578a9960de4e29ac06cdf4f65.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/0a557cb87538f5ceb1af00e6e511578b.jpg)
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Pardon the mess. One of the reasons I need a darn bench. I procrastinated doing this as I want to move so badly
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Is the dryer on the other side of the wall? It would be nice to have 220 in the garage. You could use it for more than just the compressor.
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220 will be handy for many things. I see you have some Craftsman Nextec tools too. I have a couple sets of those.
Love those overhead cabinets too. Locks make it nice and were probably a bargain.
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I think I'd drop a 50 amp 220V plug right behind the compressor, then make up a 220V extension cable out of some heavy three stran wire. That way you could unplug the compressor and plug in a mig and have a range of travel.
I put two 50amp 220VAC plugs in my garage. One for the compressor, and the 50' extension cord on the other for either the welder or the plasma.
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HD or lowes has 3 or 4 wire cable to make up a longer cord or extention. I made a 20 ft 4 wire extention cord for my welder. Piece of cake. Look at some tops on Global Industrial or Uline. You can get the butcher block style tops about 6 ft to use for the top.
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2x6 tongue and groove. Pu the compressor outside under a roof and keep the noise outside
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You can get butcher block counter from lumber liquidators too
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Ok. I moved forward today, I won't be rewiring for the mean time, HOA will not allow any out buildings. Yes I know HOA's suck some times. I managed to get some pretreated birch board. I have designed the bench so I can change tops as needed. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/7480b4224fb47e2ff1110ee22462b6bf.jpg) I can set a fresh top in and screw it down with some smaller corner counter sunk screws. The compressor will be able to slide out if needed( heaven forbid) and I think the shelves need to go up higher ten inches or so. As is tonight (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/2e03d4e339575ba738468d3fd004a8a2.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/701e3322705b47777a23d8bdc524c263.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/df58e1dc83f910474426973d8d807a2e.jpg)
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Ok I lied. I couldn't put away the mess. Needed to finish it. I am sure the neighbors hate me a little after screw guns and skill saw at 11:40pm.
Anyway here is all but finished product. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/bdaac3fe08f0ecdcc506bd2bc0765fa9.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/c54d8494aada8b700e7a990be8b5a3b1.jpg)
All that is needed no is some shorter screws to attach the top into the 1x1 that the top plate rests on
Then I am going to use the same 1 x to frame in some peg board and use it to hang random tools and what not. Also going to look for that new vise and bring and mount my bench grinder.
What do you all think?
I do have some sanding of edges and then I will stain the 2x4s with the top removed so it gives it some contrast and styles
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So far so good. As for the 220 just get an RV cord. When I was looking for my plasma the best I found was an 50 amp RV cord. Plus the end has an LED to show you have power. Buy the time you get cable at $1 a foot, 2 plugs it is cheaper.
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I'll have too look where did you find yours at jr ?
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Jrs right, but it depends on the end plug. Where? Amazon of course. If its legal to own, you can get it on Amazon....
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=rv+50+amp+extension+cord&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=29590345435&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4169105025947632931&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4j3hghtgg4_b
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Oh and the bench looks good Dave, I assume you put a wall brace at the inside corner by the compressor too?
I like the removable top idea. Depending on how much you twist on what ever is in the vice, make sure that top is secured well.
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If you are going to do any kind of welding or grinding Id cover the top with sheet metal. Did that in our shop. 3/16 thick if I remember right.Comes up the front a couple inches to protect the front and up a couple inches in the back for a back splash. All one piece we had it bent at the local welding/fab shop.
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If you are going to do any kind of welding or grinding Id cover the top with sheet metal. Did that in our shop. 3/16 thick if I remember right.Comes up the front a couple inches to protect the front and up a couple inches in the back for a back splash. All one piece we had it bent at the local welding/fab shop.
Wood and cardboard make pretty good temporary welding tables!
Maybe not...
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No welding for me. I did nix the hinged top. Didn't want a piano hinge the who distance. The compressor can stay put hell or high water :)
I will look for a different plug for the power. I'll also flip my tank fittings to the left side of the tank so it's not in the dark corner. Still a few things to do
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Got mine on Ebay, 25ft 50amp for $62 shipped.
25ft will go anywhere in the garage, out to the street plus a little as the plug is in the front of the garage. Both my mig and my plasma will also work on 110, but 220 is the way to go.
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Dave, I'd keep your eyes peeled on Craigslist for a good OLD vise (you can set up email alerts when a certain keyword shows up "vise"). I bought a HF and its junk. The jaws don't open and close smoothly, probably due to the crummy Chinese casting. Maybe I just need to oil it up real good, but there are times that I can't spin the handle freely with one finger because it binds up.
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I picked up a vise from homedepot. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/13/7dc25c72f30fb47beb17dc9b965f4063.jpg) I only wish is that the base was higher
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Great pickup. Good work on the bench.
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I inherited my grandfathers Milton vise. I haven't measured it but that thing weighs 50 lbs if an ounce. I need to give it a good cleaning. Just took it off the bench at home and moved the bench to fit the wifes new (to her) SUV in the garage.
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If you try to tighten a harbor freight Chinese bench vise with too much force, the threads in the casting will strip out. Not sure if that is common for all of them, but mine stripped out pretty easy. I was tightening by hand, not using a cheater bar or anything like that. Might have been a bad casting, but it looked fine at first. Good news is HF traded it easily for another one. I have been very gentle with the second one and it's a couple years old and still working.
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I guess my problem is very gentle and bench vise don't fit together at my place. Mine is one of those old heavy hand me downs. I have ripped the bench mounting holes a couple times but the vise is still there waiting to be abused.
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Tonight I wired some power. I stole power from a outlet existing. You can see the grey flex tube running down the middle of the wall. It works. I need to add a bigger breaker. It's only on a 15 amp Need to add s 20
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/b85d80aed94b5fcceb11fcca4f90cd65.jpg)
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Plus you notice the large stack of wood. That's redwood I need to sand with 150 grit then seal before I install on my deck rebuild. I'll be sure to take photos. As a future heads up. Tomorrow Sherwin Williams is having a large sale. Almost 50 % off. Go get your paint fellas
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that garage sure is shaped funny.....
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It's square.
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The panoramic photo might be messing you up a bit
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Tonight I got my power finished up, added a 20 amp breaker and attached a light to the bottom of the shelf. I need another one to add
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Yeah Dave. That was a poor attempt at humor. Looking good!
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Sorry Tex. No one is home tell tell me jokes. Sorry your fell on deaf ears
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Yeah Dave. That was a poor attempt at humor. Looking good!
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Don't sweat it TRN
I thought it was round too...(Not really)
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Dave, be careful with that 20 amp breaker. If the wire is only 14 gauge (typical for 15amp) then you are technically going against electrical code. Can 14ga wire handle a 20amp load, probably, but just be careful.
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How do I figure out what gauge wire is coming from the wall. Can I measure it?
The stuff I added on the outside of the wall I know is 14 ga wire per the package 14/2
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14ga is usually in a white outer jacket, 12ga in yellow.
You can use your wire strippers to measure the actual size of the copper.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/445333-romex-14-2-g-garage-20-amp-breaker.html
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I guess I'll put the old breaker back into in, see how long it takes to trip
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the wire will almost always have the type THHN, etc, and the gauge and temperature rating. I would look at it very carefully. The length of the run is also important. Longer runs have more resistance and reduce the ampacity.
http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts
14 is only good for 15 amps. Don't play games with electricity. Not worth burning a house down over.
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the wire will almost always have the type THHN, etc, and the gauge and temperature rating. I would look at it very carefully. The length of the run is also important. Longer runs have more resistance and reduce the ampacity.
http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts
14 is only good for 15 amps. Don't play games with electricity. Not worth burning a house down over.
I think in general the yellow sheathed wire is good to 20amps, the white is 15amps. Depends on when your house was built though for that to matter, as that might be a new thing where the sprakies started using color coded wire.
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Yeah, yellow =12 gauge/20 amps and white=14 gauge/15amps
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I'll fix it in the am when grandma comes to give me a baby break
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Today I had a few minutes and removed the insert and sanded the 2x4s with 220 grit removed all the chalk lines, pencil marks and put a coat of stain on, three coats of lacquer with sanding in between coats. Looks good I think all finished (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/23/ead13befcfe7f3f29572bed651b6efd5.jpg)
Don't mind the end. I need to move the tool box to finish that edge
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Lookin good boss!
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Garage lighting. What do you guys use ?
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I had issues with seeing in my office that had 2, 8 foot fluorescents, and my buddy that works at a factory told me to get 0ne T5 fixture and it would solve my old man problem. I went ahead and bought 2 if them (each has 2 little 4' bulbs) and ended up taking the bulbs out of one of them because it was so bright!
So i would recommend T5s or T8s for bright lighting. Standard T12 bulbs for cheap not-so-bright lighting.
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What is the difference between the 2 8 foot tubes vs the four 4 foot lights?
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Garage lighting. What do you guys use ?
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8' florescent above and various fluorescents on the wall pointed outward which I can switch on to illuminate "into" a work area.
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Nothing different if they are the same type bulbs. But if you're comparing 8' t12s to a different type bulb in the 4', like a t5, then the lighting is different.
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transporting and storing 8 ft bulbs can be a bit of a challenge. I have 4 twin 8ft fixtures in my shop. Good lighting. Look at the lumens on the bulbs like Ken says.
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I kind of wanted to try LED lights, all my power in the garage comes from that one Circuit that I changed back to the 15 amp breaker on. I don't want to turn on a angle grinder and have the lights on. I guess I have it in my head to conserve energy
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Kind of what I was thinking.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Feit-Electric-4-ft-2-Light-LED-Utility-Shop-Light-73985/205701897
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Feit-Electric-4-ft-1-Light-White-LED-Utility-Shop-Light-73992/205704101
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That's an interesting find there Dave of bigness!
I didn't know that was out there. Pretty good price. My question would be how many lumens and how does that compare to the mercury poisoned ones I use?
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I have this one in the laundry room. Works great. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-White-LED-Flushmount-Wraparound-Light-FMLWL-48-840/205570126
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You can also go to superbrightleds.com and get self adhesive led strips then cut to length and attach a small power supply.
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How about my existing 8 ft fluorescent fixtures...can I purchase LED tubes for those?
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4' T8's work really well
Garage lighting. What do you guys use ?
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Six I think they do make conversion kits for your long tubes. Rewire a positive at one end
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I have two T8 four footers in my double garage and they are OK, 4 would be better. My entire garage is 12g also.
I like the new 4ft LEDs and have a couple for general use now, need flush mounts for upstairs.
My eyes still hurt from that picture!!
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The first link I posted the light puts out 3700 lumens. The second light puts out 1600 I think I read I money and light output is worth it to me to buy the double lights. I also have fought to travel with eight foot tubes. Unless you buy a case you have to be pretty careful. The buzz of the fluorescent lights bugs me after working at a desk under them for so long. The pulsing gives me a headache
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Tonight I started the 2x6 redwood for the deck in the back yard. I got them half way sanded
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/27/7607097db819467eef7833c819a93cd0.jpg)
The pile on the right is ready for stain
The pile on the left is still in need of some 100grit
I sanded and stained these last week (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/27/9365a40965e00d76b1c7f6cde72fbf9f.jpg) I hope to have it finished before the snow hits.
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Sorry I turned my workbench build into a spot to post all the honey dos.
Like concrete porch removal (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/29/b12829375f6a8f9c6d87d483800d2e5a.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/29/fcce8569de97145533884b82a0c6bddb.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/29/8459f85ef3c530dab825d354daf167f4.jpg)
No more major trip hazard and the rain gutter now has proper drain with gravel and back fill
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I can rename the thread for you if you would like dave....dave's honey do's / what dave does when handling or not handling twins.....?
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I can rename the thread for you if you would like dave....dave's honey do's / what dave does when not handling twins.....?
HA! Looks like in the second photo Dave is handling twins! ;D ;D
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I fixed it
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Ok, so I'm scratching my head... in the "sanded and stained" picture of Dave's garage, the door into the house sits back from the wall on the right (and the garage is way less messy) ;D, but in the workbench photos, the wall is flush with the door... Did I miss a major garage remodel or a move to a new house? Is this the neighbor's garage?
Yeah yeah... first world problems of doors/walls not matching up ;)
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Oh man I usually try really hard to keep myself out of photos. Oops.
As for the rename idea. I could get on board with that.
I do have a end date now to my father if the year goal. Work called this last week. They need me back on the 16th of next month. Kids will go to a sitter who is s close friend. I am giving her my vw so she has my car seats and she can watch them in my home.
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Why, got caught by the inadvertent selfie! :)
You're not the first, and I'm sure not the last. Lol.
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Ok, so I'm scratching my head... in the "sanded and stained" picture of Dave's garage, the door into the house sits back from the wall on the right (and the garage is way less messy) ;D, but in the workbench photos, the wall is flush with the door... Did I miss a major garage remodel or a move to a new house? Is this the neighbor's garage?
Yeah yeah... first world problems of doors/walls not matching up ;)
I'm with ya here. Went back and looked and looked, and I'm scratchin now.
Two doors? Different garage? Optical illusion?
Not sure.
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Ok, so I'm scratching my head... in the "sanded and stained" picture of Dave's garage, the door into the house sits back from the wall on the right (and the garage is way less messy) ;D, but in the workbench photos, the wall is flush with the door... Did I miss a major garage remodel or a move to a new house? Is this the neighbor's garage?
Yeah yeah... first world problems of doors/walls not matching up ;)
You got it good Watson. I am using the neighbors garage as he rents the home, less stuff to strip over in his garage for sure. There has been so many projects going I had to bum some space to get the deck going too. Temps are dropping here into the thirties this week.
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just give me or kyle a name that you would like it changed to and well make it happen
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I liked your second idea. Go for it
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I vote for "The Big Dave Workbench, Honey Do, Catch All, DOT Thread...."
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So.m I have missed the definition of the DOT? Help?
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definition of the DOT? Help?
Here is the official definition, though scholars have maintained the translation was lost long ago:
D.O.T. (Derailleur of Threads) is a term coined by this site some time ago. Used to describe those undisciplined, unruly, out of control, adolescent minded, good for nuttins' who inhabit moderate our site here
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I cool with that. I need all the communication in my life I can get. Kids don't talk much
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I cool with that. I need all the communication in my life I can get. Kids don't talk much
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Remember that feeling..........there will come a time..........and you will ponder the age old question- "who teaches a child the word WHY?" ;D
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dave, do you like the name change or would you like something different?!
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It's all good man. Lol
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then it is official! this thread is the sole property of big dave..............;D!
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Ok so the last weekend I got the horizontal part of my deck all but done sorry no photos as its to dark outside to see, I made another $300 dollar trip to the homodepo. Picked up 5 4x4,s 2 2x12s, 8 2x4s, all 12' long. I sanded and stained the 4x4s
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/02/b35a2747ebdd56dbd5a7edb0da2b8e03.jpg)
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Well I put the wood to some use today. This past weekend I got the deck flat area all but done. Tonight I replaced the handrail and some of the framing/floor joists (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/7ed0c3ed548a0de8fcd87c18dc1718c7.jpg)
Cleaned up before the cops get called. The 20v dewalt brushless impact is bad a$$$
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Well I made good use of the bad air compressor tank today. Awhile back I cut it down and gave half away
I figured I could save my self some haul time and effort and keep warm at the same time. Yes it was frosty out when I started the idea But I finished the deck today and burned lots of wood (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/07/e9549243282e17a66a20312e19766bf3.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/07/abb31bce3485893cf95ad64322d41048.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/07/8aa63a84c324d54e4494abb3295e25b0.jpg) at this point I realized what I had done wrong!!^^^^ so I had to make a trip to the Homodepo and get another 2x12x8 to cut it out correctly. Stair stringers suck! (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/07/04a3656cc526f462880c2d6175038135.jpg)
The burn barrel (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/07/c9b7430c82e13f602292cd4cfd22494b.jpg). The base is a highly engineered piece of equipment. Fire proof and keeps gras from burning also.
I'll post good photos of the deck in the morning
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Good idea!
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Great use for old LPG tanks and I bet the sides radiate a good amount of heat,,,,,,,,,,,
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I had a second thought about that tank. I should have left it tall cut a six inch vent in the top and made a fire place for the garage out of it. You could easily vent it through a ceiling or a wall vent. What do you think?
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Might be a bit big for heating a small space. That thing will really put out the heat, I'd bet, but a good idea none the less.
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Not bad. Gotta be very careful about flammables lest you wind up in the 2016 version of the Darwin Awards.
There are some cheap kits designed for use with 55 gal drums too since you've already committed by cutting that tank in half
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i have even seen a few smokers that have been made out of A/C tanks that size. http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210143
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Man I wish I had seen or thought of that. I have wanted to buy a smoker. That would have bee awesome
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Dave, head over to the scrap yard. Those guys have a hard time getting rid of propane tanks....at least around here. I picked up an old 3/16" thick International tractor tank for nothing to use as an extra air holding tank to supplement my compressor. At that time, they had a whole stack of different size tanks in the corner, so i picked the biggest one.
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Finished project guys (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/d91454a31287c4983bdda295374b93bc.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/bb7e96a573b88ef037bf6d3fc1303fd6.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/84208c5d0359e2e89af8541dc1843303.jpg)
And one of my view of the pond. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/bf86def3d8e3b653a34ca393a5905103.jpg)
Next up painting the master bathroom and the living room area
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Very nice job
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Thank you good sir
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Looking really good there Dave
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Very nice!
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Any fish in there??
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Good job Dave!
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Any fish in there??
there are some of the biggest nasty carp you have ever seen. Bunches of them. I have tried snagging them with no such luck
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This week is my last week of freedom so to speak. Work called a week or so ago need me back I guess. I worked it out so I have one week with no boys do I can complete some honey does
Started Monday early with some paint prep (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/cd8668fd583906c9b4e7205d546e2846.jpg)
Removed nails, side lighted the whole wall and filled holes or dents in the walls. ( renters are crapty)
First coat (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/930c2c2f98952dbe27bc6186776d3847.jpg)
Second coat and cleaned up (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/701981bbe61be1e01335e02979554c2f.jpg)
Today is the master bathroom and the laundry room hallway
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Today's paint started a little late. Took the wives car for oil change tire rotate and balance, But I got some progress this eve. Masked puttied the holes. Of this wall (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/f49deec2a88e3cf032ad0aab01490f5d.jpg)
Brushed and rolled one coat. Then put annention on my master bath.
WARNING BOYS!!!!!!!!! Your wife may be using hair spray in your bathrooms. This is the worst thing in the world to paint over. Paint runs from hairspray like water does oil!!!! Many tricks can be used to remove this.
1. best is sand that nasty crap off!!
2. Is to try shampoo in an amount sufficient to clean the surfaces.
3. I would suggest a heavy solvent or thinner. But this method is harsh on your health and the area in which you are working (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/b2479db8c7a2da0877f6218e2e975006.jpg)
I sanded my area to what I assumed was sufficient. I was wrong as you can see. Best way to remove wet paint is a broad knife and then use a tile sponge and bucket of water (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/b4ba62c28173329946c135a861cb4e98.jpg)
At this point you can begin your cleaning process. I will not be doing this. I don't use hair spray. That's for the women to do
Painting for the night is now at a stand still. Cooking time
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My wife breathes hair spray. It must be on my bathroom walls 2" thick by now!
Can you just prime over it??
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Never bin successful with it my self. If you use some epoxy based primer maybe. Scrapping paint sucks. I wouldn't mess with it
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Will Kilz primer cover it up? It works wonders on other stuff
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That is exactly what I had in mind for a primer but it's not Been something I have tried so I don't want to say it will work if I do not know
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I wonder if that Kilz would cover up Islam?
I mean since it covers up everything else we don't want to look at anymore.
Question: Was that a nasty comment? Or just a early morning post coffee observation?
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Today is LBZ Down PiPe and oil change day. I also noticed how don made a small price of hose off of his flumoto valve. I will see if I have enough hose to mimic that also as I found piece of mind knowing the valve could be opened and the pan not drain as the hose would be still plugged.
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Snatched from Don's page. But this is the idea (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/afeebaa1c5663729da701c275c40f921.jpg)
I like how you can fill the hose also and get your oil sample from it also
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Ok. Progress made men.
Removed the passengers tire and inner fender well.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/f0ba664b6e167f737932c7d8ee387646.jpg)
Removed the lower exhaust clamp and then removed the five feet of pipe that is next to transmission.
Removed the dipstick bracket and attachment points to the heat shield
Climb on top and it was suggested I remove the glow plug controller (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/0c6247e93cc2dd6c277817b719ca9c7e.jpg)
Once that was removed I had a very clear view of the turbo shield which was removed with a sawzall(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/5ba816ef598235acf8cefb4c74aff462.jpg)
The upper v clamp was super simple to see at this point and just used a small ratchet wrench to remove it. From here it was Mr HAmmer and BA pry bar to encourage the down pipe to separate from the turbo.
It practically fell out once removed from the turbo. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/65cd6617092f4ae689476da9334f5854.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/21407c6864b89efdaa8dc84f955c0d36.jpg)
Now to install the new pipe. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/4cc43efdfe39e008229aaa61667f7bae.jpg)
Now I had to re wrap my heat wrap. I hope the clamps are located where it won't be an issue for installation.
Ok I have the down pipe on, v clamps installed. Sounds leak free. I sprayed the exhaust when I had it off with some black paint. ( it's not heat paint so we will see how long it lasts). No change in sound and my egt probe stopped working long ago.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/9213db1fa9e38a580b8b4a245831c8ef.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/11181afcd4016ced3e72dd774b5efaa8.jpg)
Oil change complete. The hose similar to Don's. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/e9c01f8f34c8a6e3d9478140720a9cae.jpg)
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Yea-ah!
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Don sorry about your m4 post. You can delete all that nastiness
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I'll be doing one of those tubes shortly. where do you recommend I pickup the fumoto valve fellas?
A word on latex based paint in bathrooms; (this is why I go acrylic). Working with my dad, who is a meticulous painter, I learned how to do things right by being told how I screwed them up. I made the same mistake as you, and did not prep the walls. fish eyes everywhere and runs bleeds, holes etc. so I stripped it down like you, cleaned it, but didn't let it dry enough, nor did I prime the wall. when the bleed through and bubbles showed up, I was sent back to the house to correct my mistakes. Strip, clean, dry WITH HEAT, prime, then paint, then cure before using the shower again and good to go.
Acrylic based primer like KILLZ will eliminate all the initial steps and eat through grime like acid. Prime paint dry move on. Nice colors, everything is looking really good outside of the bathroom there Dave.
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Thanks el Tate. You can get those flumoto valves from Dmaxstore.com they have always treated me well I have used the kills before, it gives you a rank buzz :)
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you can order the Fumoto's off Amazon. At least I did when I ordered one for my Tundra, back when I owned it.
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Unrelated to my thread but. I'll leave this here and see (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/21/1df0ae37a3b28090c9caa52eafc9b755.jpg)
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I'll be doing one of those tubes shortly. where do you recommend I pickup the fumoto valve fellas?
If you haven't ordered yet, check out Femco oil drains. I have had both, and like the Femco better.
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I'll be doing one of those tubes shortly. where do you recommend I pickup the fumoto valve fellas?
If you haven't ordered yet, check out Femco oil drains. I have had both, and like the Femco better.
Post a link and a explanation why good sir.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Sorry, I put the wrong name in there. I actually went with the No-Spill systems plug. It works the same as the Femco. It's been a couple years, but I think I ordered the one I could get the quickest. It's a plunger type contraption that replaces the drain plug. A cap with o-ring in it screws on for normal use. To drain remove the cap and screw on piece with hose that pushes plunger up and drains oil. I got the compact one and with the cap on it sticks down the same amount as the factory drain plug. I just put a piece of twisted up paper towel in both ends of the hose and throw it in my toolbox. I just put the cap on by hand so an oil change involves no tools.
https://www.nospillsystems.com/index.cfm
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So you have to store the extra part/tool?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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The working height of my bench is great but the height of the cabinets is to low. Today I moved up eight inches to allow me tortilla store my coolers And things of that nature on top and give me a bit more working area on the bench. What a PITA it is to do things with a cord. My brushless drill set is in the mail
Before
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/8dd0cf351d5e81e6bbbb953e75770dc3.jpg)
After
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/10d6b62f36116603fca9efe7e76a4ed5.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Finished the cabinets today. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/73a1439d22f0f9737459e2e4fe18ac12.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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looks nice, hows the compressor working under the bench?
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She is walking around because I haven't got my hockey pucks drilled yet
Other then that she is holding air and churns nice and smooth
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Other project is on the table
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/ce0562198bc6b33a7541ddd3a820d6e4.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/0216e6d2aceb23083cc1b73d0e8af5c0.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/c77fe42bc074903f28a5cfd4408f5f43.jpg)
I have some pretty bad hot spots out of my HID lights in my truck. I have found a projector kit from the company longshotlighting.com. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/b093dbb1fc6398c5c587ce75f23f59e0.jpg)
They sell this simple do it your self kit with a relatively good quality lens to instal in our factory high bean housing. I will have a high and low beam in one pocket and would like to instal a LED pod in my low beam location. Also plan on painting all the chrome white and leaving the black black. Going to wet sand the hell out of the stock lenses and use a quality adhesion promoter and clear paint to help protect from UV light.
As you can see from the photo I have the turn signals lower bumper lights removed. I need to complete the headlights. I used the kitchen oven at 235 degrees for repeated five minute amounts. And a good ok butter knife because putty knifes in my paint tool box are not for prying things
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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How are you getting the hi/low in one bulb housing? I may want to do this on the 2001 at some point
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The projector housing has a motor that moves a light shield to unblock the lens. Hard to explain now that I think of it. I'll look for a video
Aha. I take no credit for the guy and most of what he talked about or his methods but Tex he does show the cut off shield in his video http://youtu.be/iFF2XoZJIBo
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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The scout camp season is upon us in full swing. We had a camp with eleven boys from age eleven to 15 plus a few supporting fathers
We went to a place called horse Shoe springs in the west desert of Utah. The spring holds water at a constant 75 degrees which is a great fishing hole. We played some scout games in the eve, practiced some cooking skills with breakfast and dinner, and flew a kite surfing kite. Took the d max up some my side for a better view and a good hike up Lone Rock (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160221/0ab0ed61564c4853b18e2deb8bc79cdb.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Cool!
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This weekend we headed a good bit further into the west desert, on a mission to find geodes. We camped at Simpson springs ( fun story to read about a Susan Powell that is buried there maybe)
Then off down the 75 miles of dirt road (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/704a062204d1cb7b2fc89ed105f718ee.jpg)
We had about ten kids but they kept going down the dirt road and we missed the photo opportunity
Leaders removed from photos for safety
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/1fc1f75acb705fa8aae506c50e35ff60.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/9253aaf205c48534bc68218d25daa961.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/9821097084140e1dae9f35d9b4ec7620.jpg)
We found a ton of geodes, We took out a generator and a small tile saw so we could cut up what we found to excite the boys in the activity and interested in the findings
Here is one of the few I kept for myself. Hand for size (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/ad6b5e93c1e06569fa23617733937bdc.jpg)
The next trip we want to go out to topaz Mt and see if we can get paid for what we find.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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The area is cold dry and prone to flash flooding. We happened across a group of wild mustangs, we had a tire blow out in the wagon, and the boys were exhausted (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/ea458011588022c82d7e5c59bbaf0668.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/60a3e43b0319512d2581c8a6fd4c509e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/b6ef1ea6641f82787b78468a6ea40ca2.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/ac5d1f9505828ae2342ada2ddfdf26ed.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/57589a6bbacdc166f44d9b07ce7dee28.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Looks like fun!
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Kid in the green hat doing a good Fat Albert sidekick imitation!
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Great pic of the horse.
What's the rock from, volcanic? icr but pretty cool.
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Geodes begin as bubbles in volcanic rock or as animal burrows, tree roots or mud balls in sedimentary rock. Over time, the outer shell of the spherical shape hardens, and water containing silica precipitation forms on the inner walls of the hollow cavity within the geode.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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So I put together this list. Pardon the scratch (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160407/a36e8b0b36d125c1951ab67a927ab80d.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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A few sleeps ago I was chatting with El Tate ands asked me to share an experience. Now is that time. I am so tired of writing proposals and slideshows. Time for something I enjoy
So 2007 Silverado gets parked out side right, cold winter months sees no such thing as warmth or a bath unless I take it to a tire shop which I did for a tire rotation and balance. All sound good right? Right! Well I have them rotate my fifth tire into the circle to keep things even and they do so with a smile. On my inspection of the truck when I get home I notice the spare tire is swinging a little lower then normal and that they must not have gotten it cranked all the way to the frame. Easy fix right?!? No! I rolled the little tool kit out from under the seat to crank her up and was met with nothing! No movement upwards or down. It was plain stuck!
I tend to walk away once or twice from an issue As I have learned I make stupid mistakes when in the heat of the moment. I waited a few days for either the ice to shake free or the sun to heat up a little bit and allow things to move like designed. A week or so later I find the right moment and back the pig into my tiny garage and put the space heater to her ass and warm her up, roll out the tool kit again and was once again met with no movement of any kind. The long bar felt like it was attaching in the slot correctly. I could feel it rotate and feel resistant in the turning but not getting the correct response. I folded my hand and went to power tools in the fit of anger. I used a two inch ratchet strap to pull the tire to the side as far as possible, I pulled the inner of the valve stem as to increase flex of my tire to reach the desired area. Look for the attachment point of the hoist and find if is almost impossible to reach with the tire still on the truck. Still on the truck ? I can fix that. After a reach for the mobile device and make and executive choice and ordered a new hoist for a small fee of $119 I pulled out the sawzall and a 12 inch blade and hacked that POS off in a whip. Feeling good about my choice of chopping the cable I removed the now useless hoist with ease and sat under a dripping wet truck with joy. I solved my issue.
Until I looked at what I had just removed.
Can anyone tell me what I had done wrong yet?????
I'll give it a night to see who can guess what the issue was. And go !
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I was just in there a week ago on mine. Once I got it loose the latch met angle grinder.
Now to your question, I know you cut the wrong stuff or thing, just can't place it at the moment. Eyes were full of mud from beating shocks off and on...
The story tells me there's more to it, I'm just drawing a blank.
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Why didn't you take it back to the tire shop? To late now but a couple pieces of wood could have worked for a while.
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Guessing whatever the hoist mounts to? Cross member, can't recall but our went out on our Denali a few years ago.....
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Guessing whatever the hoist mounts to? Cross member, can't recall but our went out on our Denali a few years ago.....
That's what I was thinking....crossmember. but you said cable so maybe the ebrake line that goes across the diff? But that's not up as high so I'm not sure.
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Some component of the anti-lock braking system I'm fearing, and hoping NOT!?
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When I examined the hoist looking for the reason it was not working correctly I found that I was not figuratively speaking but literally putting a round peg into a square hole. I had tried to operate the hoist with the wrong attachment on the end of the crank. All the round/flat end was doing was sliding around the square, Because I was momentarily incompetent I cost my self $100 bucks. Lesson learned?! Yes very much so
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Ahh, so you had the crank handle end for end, and totally unnecessarily cut the hoist out.
I think we've all had those moments.
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I think we've all had those moments.
Dave compared to how those things usually go for me I think you got off relatively cheap. ::)
Sorry that happened but that's what makes us human.
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It was a rough day for sure. I am glad a am able to get this off my chest finally
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Bang!
Darn, just shot myself in the foot...
Someone give me another round, quick!
We all do stuff like that...gives us stories. Get enough of them and you can write a book!
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Dave I follow The Darwin Awards on twitter as they are always good for a chuckle. But I cant tell you how many times I have thought...."wow....I can TOTALLY see myself doing that...." Some how I have survived it so someone obviously has a better plan for me....
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I got one side installed and now I have a working head light(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160610/01fa5b441dff1285e91f0eca60789a58.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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That turned out really nice Dave!
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Agree, that looks like new
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I didn't want that silly colored light that every punk kid has but I did want the functionality of Projector lights, I also am doing the all on mod and adding a second set of open HID lights in the now empty spot of the housing.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Installed the fancy fancy head lights, wired all six HID lights to its own individual relay, finished up my first oil change with the flumoto valve!!!! That is amazing to be able toss a fiver under the truck and drain from the installed Hose into the bucket.
Fresh oil filter and ready for Yellowstone next week
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Low beams
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/3df11320ecb9e01980135fd21a1ca427.jpg)
High beams/all on high, lows, fog
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/3e5f97ee564961896dded4dc865763a5.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/be6d6b648a0f3b17d27458c3b0d9d9d7.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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That's BIG light!
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Not tac Trac bright but then again I am not mounting one on my roof
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Finally saved enough cash to have my transmission rebuilt, going to have MikeL in California build it, figure build it to hold 700hp and I should have a long running transmission
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Good call. Mike L and brad from Calvins are the only ones I'd have build one.
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I second that. His rep with the allisons is second to none.
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The most recent family photo.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/d1f3151d6b0497cdacc4898380c6df59.jpg)
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Good looking group there Dave!
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And I have also simplified life with a ever so desirable buzzed hair cut. Someone was crying about that awhile ago
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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This morning was driveshaft day.
Took the truck to a local shop called GRS driveline *differential.
We removed the driveline off the rear of the truck due to some question of the balance (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/3595f4ceb75140f51dcea79b12f00696.jpg)
The weld marks left doubt in the balance and I figure since I am chasing problems why not check this for $40 bucks and see how the process works
First remove the shaft then mount it in a lathe and what looks like some custom gauges/pillow blocks to check the run out (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/70af4f99e5c8dc5b60be190a56d23005.jpg)
Add some RPM to the machine and verify its true. Most of the ability seems to come from experience and hands on experience. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/476596a0bd4a4f9192b068543717d9e9.jpg)
Drive shaft is about as close to true as it can be. He referred to the aluminum as not his favorite shaft material as they are not as straight to work with from the beginning. That being said my shaft is balanced and nothing needed to it
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That's cool that you got to see the process.
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Always wondered why GM went to alum on the shaft. As heavy as these are sure can't be for the 20lb weight savings!
Funny how its balanced with those weights gone, but glad it is. Now what, tires?
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As of now it looks like a fuel issue.
With the fuel gauge I installed (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/90eaa17ac4ea49b4a28439b51c3ba25d.jpg)
Fass says the truck should have anywhere between 5-12 psi from the pump. That being 6 psi I ordered new filters.
I called Fass yesterday and spoke to Tyler about what to do to increase the pressure towards the high side of the tolerance and he is sending me a new 1/2 inch nipple, spring, bearing to install.
Shortly after 2014 Fass had an update which included some new hardware, my pump predates that and I am now getting the new parts free of charge.
It may lead me to the path of a cp3 pump but I hope not
Tires I believe are coming regardless. Tire choice I am not sure. I am pretty set in my ways with BFGs but I really like the potential of the nitto EXO Tex just installed
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I'd shoot for 13 psi at the lift pump with new filters if you have one on the factory filter head. Should get you close to 12 at the cp3. Lbzs are not as sensitive to over pressure like the LB7 from what I've heard.
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You've talked to Fass already so this is a moot point... but don't those pumps usually have a screw on them to adjust the pressure, or am I thinking of an AirDog?
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Fass does not have a screw, just a set spring some folks cut or stretch the spring depending on. Actually the first Fass call I made that is what the guy told me to do. "Stretch the springs little bit" I lost it laughing. Told the guy he need to do some learning before he tells people how to fix things
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Just in the mail today (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/cc143f1b59573f5d82834385a196534d.jpg)
Hopefully tomorrow I will get it installed with some new filters
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Ok folks
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/4847ffa6069a020a218fc62d228d279a.jpg)
On the left is the new spring and ball, right is the old one. It has a bit less spring to it. Where the ball blocks the overflow I can see why the new one should hold better pressure
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/e851d0e168086a28aaca02fae626cea1.jpg)
The ID is the same old vs new but the rim to hold the spring seems larger
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/74cf58e73c20d69687eae26ef34421b3.jpg)
Double the PSI with the added new filters also
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/0150be62db180859a9b0d5b4b2f8f0a2.jpg)
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That should help!
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SO all thats left is a road test?
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Road test in the AM. I doubt this is the issue, El Tate thinks a tire belt maybe.
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Yeah I don't think a vibration is going to be solved by that but in a big tune you'll notice the difference
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Good tutorial Dave!
Good process as well...
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AM test drive on the way to work was the same ol. Still surging at 80-85 mph. Tires are still bad balanced. I am fearing if I go get tires I will need new upper and lower ball joints too. So I will start looking for a shop to do that
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Doing your own ball joints will save you big. They aren't that hard and most parts store loan the press for the lower. Bushings make it a little more complicated but still doable. Get moog joints and loaner press for couple hundred bucks I bet. I'd throw an idler arm at it too.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-rk620054?gclid=CJKXi_Lnv88CFQGUaQodIhsIkA
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K6696-Ball-Joint/dp/compatibility-chart/B000C57Y7U
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Only real trick is to make sure you clock the grease fitting the right way or you can't grease it.
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Tex I was just gonna message you.
I have a bent bolt on my torsion bar. Not sure how or why but what are the thoughts on removals
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Hmm. Does it need to be removed? You don't need to remove it until the a arm needs to be removed. You can put the jack stand under the lower a arm to hold the truck and use the c clamp press to remove and install the lower once the knuckle is removed.
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I want to replace the whole arm on the lower side, so I guess it will need to come out, I want to replace lift parts too. The salt has killed most things under my truck
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I'll take a photo tomorrow. We are hitting low 30's this week
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If the bolt is bent are you going to be able to remove it? I has snapped a torsion bar adjustment bolt off on my 03. I ended up cutting the ends of the piece it threaded into and replace both the bolt and that nut piece.
I rented a ball joint press from the auto store to use as the clamp to remove pressure from the torsion bar to do the work. They are a lot heavier than a c-clamp. I had to be a little creative to get it to work but it worked well.
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I've never had a problem unloading bars by getting it up high and letting the a arm completely unload (nearly perpendicular to the ground. Unless your bushings need to be replaced I'd leave them alone unless you want to do a big D oil change...
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Jack it up and let the entire assembly, tire and all hang. Heat it lightly with a torch and apply impact wrench and it should come free. Might want to soak with JB Blast to let'er loosen up awhile too.
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My bushings are pretty bad shape
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In that case refer to my Bus build thread. Complete suspension replacement including bushings, upper a arms, the works. Locate a decent machine shop and break it all down and carry it over and have them press bushings and ball joints. Don't bother with the uppers just replace the whole arm with bushings and ball joints like I linked to above. You will save a ton of money rather than outsourcing the complete job. Maybe enough to pay for a kryptonite steering set up :-)
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I hadn't thought about taking the parts to a shop. I'll see if I can copy past my amazon list (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161004/0efa46fe2b884474d1f59b8c55d118b9.png)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161004/0d806b12b20b69ae18f42580cb01cd1e.png)
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It looks like you are getting new upper arms and lower arms? Most people replace there stock upper arms with a whole new assembly. I replaced the lower ball joint on the truck. That way I didn't need to remove the torsion bars etc... I guess if you want to replace the bushings you would need to remove it. I rented a ball joint press from the parts store and had no issue doing it.
What are the extra ball joints in the upper A-arm package? Are they including the lower ball joints in with that package?
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I'd probably steer clear of Delco professional on lowers. Buy energy suspension poly bushings and moog joints. Much cheaper and better set up just adding the hassle factor of having them pressed out and in
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I could for sure press out the new bushings and put in new ones for sure, I could just remove the lower and replace parts and reinstall but the ones installed look like hell and new is new in my mind. The uppers are unmatched and rusted out and I don't want to hassle with sanding and painting so forth
Still not sure what I am doing today. I am a few weeks out.
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The reason I mention doing the lowers with poly and moog is that they are a much bigger pain to work on and doing it right will save you hassle in the long run. Uppers are a 30 minute fix. That's what I did in my LB7
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I have the cognito UCA. More travel, greasable poly bushings with bolt in ball joints. The latter is important since they wear fast with or setups.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SMS0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_pTg-xbWTEVSZH
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Anyone ever buy one?
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I got the HF set 2 years ago, since you don't need it too often....hopefully. I think the 6 piece set was $25 on coupon, haven't broke it yet and ive pulled 2 pitman arms.
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I've had several pitman arm pullers over the years and broke them on occasion. I always buy the elcheapos, heat & penetrating oil are your friend.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/a5d0cf186842284edcc6be2679dc8512.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/62ededad8024a2dcce7484acb2b5a9af.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/d47866a594da8e33058f878ed1a8a3d4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/3b5467ab66cca43b2adda2d879c029ea.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/1fc9acfb7f84fc70acc0ab11b4fd780e.jpg)
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She is in pretty rough shape. We will see if the next few weeks we can get it cleansed up, new joints and so on. Maybe a little powdercoat on the parts.
I did get in touch with a guy who says his brother in law works for thought country and will see what they might be able to work with me on
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Has anyone happened across a how to install or remove cp3 pumps? Google popped up tons to chose from.
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There is not a lot of room to use a puller on the truck. I'm not sure what the issue was. Maybe with your lift it will have more room. I don't recall what the issue was. Even after I managed to get the puller in place I couldn't pull it off.
I ended up taking a cut-off wheel and carefully making a slice almost all the way through the arm. After this the old arm slid right off.
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Try youtube. At least you get pictures.
I used the cheap HF pullers, they worked fine. Heat helps as the arm is going in the garbage anyway.
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Howd we get from Pittman puller to CP3?
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The truck is getting a work over. Tired of sloppy steering.
The cp3 is the last link in the chain for the surging issue, injectors also maybe
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hmm. have you thought about FPR?
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We have given it thought yes. I am going to fix the joints and so forth, then get a appointment with a dealer to run the fuel return and loss with the cp3 and determine what to do from there. At this point it's research and prepping myself to either replace it myself or suck it up and pay to have it done
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You need to look at the cognito steering items. The HD tie rods are junk but the pitman arm and the cross link have great upgrades.
I would do the CP3 myself. When I did the fittings it was not that hard once you slide it all off the top. Sure I didn't do my CP3, but I was right there.
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Monday's list to do:
Remove torsion bars and replace adjusting hardware.
Remove tires.
Remove upper and lower control arms.
Remove cv axles.
Remove lower lift sections.
Remove from drive shaft.
Remove front drive axle.
Remove pitman arm.
Remove idler arm.
Remove Idler arm bracket.
Remove old ball joints.
Remove all old bushings.
Locate new leaf spring bushings.
Decide if it's worth powder coating the leaf springs, blocks, new UBolts.
Wire wheel and remove any rust areas on Gm frame prep and re paint.
Deliver parts to sandblast and powder coat guy.
Document process for forum.
Home to bed.
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I hope you're starting today! That's a big list for only Monday.
Good luck in any case.
For the record I do not like front end work, so I don't envy your undertaking.
And yes at least some documentation.
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I am not excited about it but looking at the cost of paying someone I figured I can do a lot more work, gain some knowledge and stretch my funds further. We will see.
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Plus a new CP3 is needed.
Not all that hard, just messy. Worst will be separating the steering rods and pitman.
Look at the cognito stuff to keep it tight. I went to sleeves on lifetime tierods.
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I am not gonna do the cognito stuff,
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SMS0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_pTg-xbWTEVSZH
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No, but that looks like a quality piece of hardware
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Removed:
Upper control arms
Shocks
Lower control arms
Torsion bars on suspension side. ( can't get them out of the transmission side. IDEAS? )
Cv axles
Rotors
Large lift support is two bolts away.
Time for lunch (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/258abf51e70ddd11629bc9a8cf3d6e81.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/28eda38666adfee775efb4df2fcb93be.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/07fbba0695a87116c5d232d100bca6f0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/4b9f6bbf601c702f54c03e4f7cb27d56.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/3d997ca7fbcf0a1309f06d7272ff66a1.jpg)
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BFH on the tbars to get them out of the rear keys. Support the front so that they aren't binding up.
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Yep, I use a brass drift but your really not going to hurt that forged bar.
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Back at it again the am. Took the idler arm and bracket off. The pitman arm was an whole mother ordeal (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161018/21f9c318fd829ad74e59f45c0250a82d.jpg)
Dropped parts off to powder coat last night, I think I am going to take the guy my toe hooks and some other small parts.
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Back at it again the am. Took the idler arm and bracket off. The pitman arm was an whole mother ordeal (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161018/21f9c318fd829ad74e59f45c0250a82d.jpg)
Dropped parts off to powder coat last night, I think I am going to take the guy my toe hooks and some other small parts.
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Remember, even with a BFH, heat THEN beat......That sucks! I really like the Freudian slip typing too......mother ordeal - LOL!
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Well, I guess that's one way to get it off.....
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Hey, that think looks broken to me
I wouldn't reuse it! ;)
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I can't wait to do mine... looks like, fun?
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When I installed the assist ported steering box in my tj it came off over the course of several days. Using heat, some penetrating oil & breaking a couple elcheapo pullers but it eventually came off in one piece.
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I hope no one got hurt! That looks like it popped and pieces flew.
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No one hurt with more than pride is all. I think some anti seize will go on before the new one
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I ordered new sway bar end links, plus the steering stabilizer will get replaced with a cheapo procomp unit.
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Who can I call on here and talk to about rear axle tear down? I purchased new ubolts and have intentions of putting them in and fixing my misaligned leaf springs.
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Who can I call on here and talk to about rear axle tear down? I purchased new ubolts and have intentions of putting them in and fixing my misaligned leaf springs.
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What do you mean "rear axle tear down"?
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I mean as far as taking my leafs spring pack apart. Un bolting it from the axle and the frame. The overload spring is two inches out of alignment on one side. I have never tried that before
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It has been a while since I installed an add a leaf to a half ton but it wasn't bad. After getting the ubolts off there was a bolt through the center.
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Not sure what you mean by out of alignment, as was stated the pack should have a shallow head bolt running thru it. Head of the bolt will sit in the spring perch. I'm sure those could break causing the pack to slide apart. Couple things to note, you can't re use the u-bolts if they are fine thread. Nuts can be reused & should be tall nuts regardless of fine or course. If the u-bolts are course thread they can be re used. Fine threads will stretch is the reason those u-bolts cannot be reused. Snug u-bolts & keep them even as you torque them down. Can't recall torque but my good 1/2" impact will get them tight enough......
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Hmm, never heard that about not reusing fine thread u-bolts. I understand you get more clamping force with fine thread but will they really stretch?
Put a c-clamp on the pack if you are unsure when unbolting. if the center bolt is OK it will stay together though. I have see and had an overload twist a little, just never worries much about it.
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do one side at a time or getting the axle back in the right position is a pain without a helper. Get new U bolts. I've always heard don't reuse them. Torque is 120ft/lb IIRC. Go in a criss cross pattern a little at a time.
There are teflon pads to keep the noise down and I believe the spring back has a retaining clamp. if a leaf is rotating out of line, then you need something to retain it. The center bolt keeps them on axis but does nothing to keep them from rotating. I think there are pics in the bus rebuild thread
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I know you've all viewed how they stack several semi tractors on the back of a single tractor to tow them down the road. Long story short a good friend of mine owns the company that makes that decking equipment to haul them, one of two in the USA. They use u-bolts on front air ride suspension models to hold front air axles to his mounts. The u-bolts are course thread for this purpose & they re use them hundreds of times with no issues. The equipment was engineered this way, if they would have used fine thread then they would have to have new u-bolts every time. It's my understanding the fine thread cannot take the torque affect those tall nuts put on them over & over again. When building off road trucks years ago with leaf springs and potentially having to modify their height & ride by the spring pack we would use course thread u-bolts. As such it's been proven in real world application many times over.
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I purchased new ubolts and they are out to powder coat, I had heard you can't reuse them period. So I went that route. I'll take a photo of what I mean by out of alignment, it sounds like JR has seen it before. I want to replace the bushings in the leaf packs also and maybe do the scholastic shackles offered
http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&path=206_357&product_id=774. Until I looked at the cost
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I thought you were rebuilding the rear end when I saw this....for that, I would have very little to offer...but....
I've reused fine thread bolts multiple times with no issue. As far as alignment, if it ever gets cattywompus again, just take a big hammer under there and smack them till they're straight, make sure the u-bolts are tight, and keep on truckin.
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I swung a large deadblow hammer at it with no success, but I am defiantly not confident to rebuild the axles insides.
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Hmm, never heard that about not reusing fine thread u-bolts. I understand you get more clamping force with fine thread but will they really stretch?
Put a c-clamp on the pack if you are unsure when unbolting. if the center bolt is OK it will stay together though. I have see and had an overload twist a little, just never worries much about it.
Ya man, use once and toss in the recyclin' bin
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I purchased new ubolts and they are out to powder coat, I had heard you can't reuse them period. So I went that route. I'll take a photo of what I mean by out of alignment, it sounds like JR has seen it before. I want to replace the bushings in the leaf packs also and maybe do the scholastic shackles offered
http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&path=206_357&product_id=774. Until I looked at the cost
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The Sulastic shackles are a pretty good addition. You will need to unbolt the bed and lift it a bit to gain access to the shackle bolts though.
My ride was much improved and is almost car like between those shackles and 20 psi of air in the bags
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The u bolts were a bust today. I couldn't break them loose. So I lubed again and went about peeping the spindles for paint and deciding if I should replace the wheel bearings in the front hub assembly
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/a0709fe1572409c94422115e50f40585.jpg)
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The u bolts were a bust today. I couldn't break them loose. So I lubed again and went about peeping the spindles for paint and deciding if I should replace the wheel bearings in the front hub assembly
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Cut them off, torch or cutting wheel on angle grinder.
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^^^ What he said
Cut them down below where you can easily get to them, pull out through the top and don't look back!
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Yes, you can get them for $137 on Ebay for timken.
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I have one from the dmax store that has a replacement guarantee on it. The other I would just need to order. Need to check with the buddy how long my truck can take up his drive way. Hubs are pretty fast to replace also
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Today I started scraping off the undercoat junk that is all over my frame, it appears to be covering everything. It gets eaten by parts cleaner and whipped off with a rag. I cleaned and sprayed some good ol rust-oleum enamel on it. I hate the gloss. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161020/38a65f99b7444ac44334a12a41cb711f.jpg)
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The u bolts were a bust today. I couldn't break them loose. So I lubed again and went about peeping the spindles for paint and deciding if I should replace the wheel bearings in the front hub assembly
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Just don't use an impact close to the ground on those nuts and then leave your finger behind the back of the gun when you hit reverse....
I've heard of someone (cough) getting their hand pinned to the shop floor by the impact as it backed the nut off and being unable to reach the reverse button since it was on the back of the gun... jus sayin
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I'm not sure what that factory stuff is. Having said that if pay money to have nice clean metal like you do under it.
And what Charles said...my reverse however is on the trigger side...
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Oh boys. I have been removing unknown gooo on the passenger side today. Purchased a different paint to apply. Less shine. I also picked up some self etching primer as I assume the other stuff will fail shortly before I decide to seek the truck. I better prep the passenger side correctly.
Remove bad stuff. Clean with parts cleaner apply primer in two coats then let air dry and apply black bed liner( its supposed to be resistant to chemicals and not a heavy texture like undercoating. More paint like. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/b59b2af0b9afed6e9cb4919a49be677b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/07bf9881e67f950606f2742f1664161a.jpg)
I also found a socket I dropped four months ago and never recovered
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/c46aabb297057a61911053b63543dfed.jpg)
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I dropped an 11 or 12 mm on top of my motor several years ago. Couldn't find it with my bore camera. I suspect at some point I'll have enough off the top that it too will turn up.
Frame cleaning looking good.
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I sure wish I had a spot to lift the cab off and do this complete and correct. One day in the future I assume.
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I dropped an 11 or 12 mm on top of my motor several years ago. Couldn't find it with my bore camera. I suspect at some point I'll have enough off the top that it too will turn up.
Frame cleaning looking good.
I did the same thing getting rid of that EGR
Dropped a 12 pt 12mm socket...Have never found it!
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A little teaser shot of the powder coating (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161022/d678d7d80051b72bca4621a821968504.jpg)
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Sure look good. Now get em on and dirty!
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Looks real good, interesting pattern for powder coating, I like it. And by the looks of your frame it should even stand up for quite some time to come.
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They call it hammer tone grey/silver. I guess it's just a mixture of powder, They first zinc primer the parts, the apply a coat of the silver, then black then a clear over it. It's almost 1/8 thick in spots and I have had to grind some off in areas to allow parts to fit. I like the way it turned out
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They call it hammer tone grey/silver. I guess it's just a mixture of powder, They first zinc primer the parts, the apply a coat of the silver, then black then a clear over it. It's almost 1/8 thick in spots and I have had to grind some off in areas to allow parts to fit. I like the way it turned out
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ROFL, my neighbor is from Utah & Mormon....... ::)
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A little teaser shot of the powder coating (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161022/d678d7d80051b72bca4621a821968504.jpg)
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That's all spotted up!
Must have been covered in oil when it got cooked
Awful...
;-)
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Looking good Dave. That is a good job of prep on that frame
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Looks like Sunday will be a day of labor instead of rest as the good lord asked, this is where I am tonight and need to go home to my boys who need some dad time (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/12d2a08d48b2ac400426cfb79097e59b.jpg)
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purdy
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She drives, she turns, she feels tight enough to be satisfied. Now I need an alignment and to take some poser photos
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Good job! That was a lot of work to undertake.
But a new front end and the learning is priceless!
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I'll post this here but also on the other page. What do you guys pay per tire in other areas of the country? This is what I am looking at Friday (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161024/3c8259c1fe3414270bd092a4f684962f.jpg)
Also kryptonite cam bolts are crap. Pure garbage!!! (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161024/cf27428c110a5b822eb23280fa2b044e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161024/39e2c4f7dd9f2d11fdd884cdab86b42d.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161024/9a2fd2a8ede7f27018775543de96422c.jpg)
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My stock adjusters seem to hold up fine.
Tires, that is the going price here too. I wait for sales if I can. Last time I got my 35's (tires and wheels) with promotions I got them for 1200, then sold my old set for 500.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161024/744092f9052b4bc9ee14dc206dc6c079.jpg)
Which set fellas
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Discount has them out the door total for 1304 in my neck of the woods. If you go off road much, go with the nitto
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Not any more then a scout trip once a month or so
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Discount/Americas Tires has priced match online prices for me.
Bigger lugs should drive better on the road.
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I was thinking the nitto would be a little quieter and I am wondering if it will last a little longer because or more surface area on the tread pattern
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My nittos wore funny. Maybe just me.
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if you go with the nittos, you ought to think about siping the center lugs, but request just the centers, not the outers as they can chunk.
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My last Nittos chunked badly, but likely more due to the gravel I'm always on.
I can recommend a tire if you travel a lot of crushed rock gravel road as I've tried a lot of them, and have 200 miles each way on it, but for a normal use pickup, likely not needed.
Some guys around here have had trouble with the BFG's on the heavier trucks.
Chunking issues etc, but in the half tons not too bad, b I know some guys do ok with them too.
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What do you run Sam? I ordered the nitto. Weather I Like it or not that's what is paid for. I like the way the sidewall looks and the hope of larger surface area bringing longer wear patterns
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I'm running Toyo M-55's again. I think you'll be happy with the Nittos.
My biggest problem is the rock used on our road. It's crushed black shale, and or granite.
Arrowheads...
Second to that is my truck is spray full of stuff. I likely carry 500# of crap when I'm empty.
3/4" crusher belt on bottom of box, tools, liquids, etc.
Then when I come home all bets are off. One trip was 1/4" off bump stops, whatever that means other than too heavy.
Third problem is I have a lead foot. Even the gravel doesn't normally slow me too much, unless it's in the state of treachery it has been this year.
These tires are a VERY hard compound.
This makes them stand up well, but give up a bit in cold weather traction.
Seems like an oxymoron for someone living where I do, but their grip level was similar to Terra Grapplers on ice, and better in slush, muck, and snow.
So kind of a trade off.
The other problem some have is they only make limited sizes.
I'm running 265/75/16's so I'm good. Not sure if they make 35's or not.
The Nittos I ran couldn't take the constant pounding of the rock.
I got around 30 ish k miles out of them. They still had lots of tread, just too chunked and cut up.
They stood up better than any of the others I've ran, so they should be good on mainly highway for a lot longer. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
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Well they ride nice and even, they balanced really well with only 1.75 weight on each. Now photo time (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/25678e44b6296016fc15e4481249cfad.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/45a60ab5d9dd0e65ac46e8582f022485.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/8f013f78e70d09511c48f90343791e6f.jpg)
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Brand new fender liners should be here today from GM and we will get those warmed up and molder out of the way of the new tires. Shortly
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I really like that wheel. Nice set!
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That's a great rebuild Dave!
Way past a normal repair
Seems to be a lot of that around here!
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Looks good!
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OH MAN !!! Im jealous!! Keep us updated on how you like them. I had just posted something about that new Nitto last month. What size did you go with? I agree with Tate on possibly siping the center. My last Nitto Trail Grapplers were my favorite tire to date, while ive been struggling to decide between the BFG and this new Nitto. That sidewall...ooooooooo :o
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Looks good and I see there is plenty of red grease to get on all the clean parts.
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That's a great rebuild Dave!
Way past a normal repair
Seems to be a lot of that around here!
I think if we were to ask my wife who's fault this is. She would blame you
As for the size 35/12.50(closer to 13.50) 17 inch wheel.
I am really impressed. I can't bark the tires on corners or in the wet road. It holds great to the freeway and handles a hard downshift like a champ where the old BFGs would break loose on the freeway keeping you from moving in the direction of travel I want to go.
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Looks good and I see there is plenty of red grease to get on all the clean parts.
I am open to suggestions to fix that red grease leak. In the process I nicked the boot and now have a pin hole that the grease comes out of
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That's a great rebuild Dave!
Way past a normal repair
Seems to be a lot of that around here!
I think if we were to ask my wife who's fault this is. She would blame you
As for the size 35/12.50(closer to 13.50) 17 inch wheel.
I am really impressed. I can't bark the tires on corners or in the wet road. It holds great to the freeway and handles a hard downshift like a champ where the old BFGs would break loose on the freeway keeping you from moving in the direction of travel I want to go.
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I've been getting a lot of that lately...
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Great build! I am glad you went with the Nittos, I have heard that the BFG's were not made like they used to be. I am very interested in the ridge grapplers. How do they hold up being they have been on there for several months now?
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I have noticed thus far good wear pattern, snow travel has been good and I have been in some pretty deep fields. Road noise is minimal and they need to be rotated here shortly.
I still need to fix the steering rattle and there is something clunking in the back
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Sounds like the dreaded driveline thump and steering linkage rattle. I think Sam posted up a fix for that somewhere here...
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Actually I think it was Kyle. I did ask about it tho.
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Link link link
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Sold the green monster as it was called at home this week,
Sold the 20ton hydraulic press this week,
I'll post cleaned out garage pictures in the AM and it will make JR cry a little
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Mine is still not finished. Just a huge circle.
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Mine is still not finished. Just a huge circle.
The circle of mess? That's the one I deal with.
Was just starting to spring clean when this emergency trip happened.
The bomb that was my truck box filled with generator welder etc to fix dock, exploded back into the garage.
So it will likely make me a bit too Dave. Lol
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Today I had to finish the "professional tree trimmer" job. He didn't have a saw big enough to go through the trunk so I told him I would finish it up for him, the home owner is a good older couple and I figured I could wake the hood up at seven AM with a screaming chain saw. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/78fc0853c58cddd262bbf39e5d79510d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/fb4f6f977b9b0bd5748ba5b023bfd636.jpg)
And. Ow for that clean garage photo, (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/32f0dea4b828d9801d234d103f0854ad.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/b70fbdca37305eb7aa39ef1f99b4446a.jpg)
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It was cleaner before this tree trimming
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It was cleaner before this tree trimming
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Regardless. That is my goal...
We'll see I guess.
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Nice job :likebutton:
But gotta ask....how does a "professional tree trimmer" not have a saw big enough for those trees? He a bonsai trimmersed or sumthin'? :huh:
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0700 with a chain saw?
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Nice job :likebutton:
But gotta ask....how does a "professional tree trimmer" not have a saw big enough for those trees? He a bonsai trimmersed or sumthin'? :huh:
That's where i got lost, he told me they had a dump to remove the tree stuff, he didn't. He said that he could cut the tree off at the lawn, he couldn't, I had to.
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0700 with a chain saw?
And would have to look what chain. I usually run a skip tooth on wet wood like that but I was lazy. Worked s little bit for it but I made it ok
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With the addition of that new trailer it has become time to fill this thing with all of our Worldly possessions.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/d5622da4648ca92d3805ee6b20a5e236.jpg)
Sold the boys 2008 klx110 for a good price this week also. I'll add to this when I am done moving (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/97a9a95e5def03c954ed4623631fb25f.jpg)
Back at it
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I hate moving, been a long time.
Good luck!
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Thanks. Trailer is almost full and time to relax in the truck seat. In desperate need of air bags on the truck
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Moving the twins into my old room as a little boy, Grandma hadn't changed a thing since I was a little boy so we are boxing up some of my older collectibles the boys keep trying to open, at least until they are old enough to enjoy them (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170604/d0ac5052847274f35f02ab8f04a9b9a8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170604/c53de5bb4fa6b44d22a5250d27ad064d.jpg)
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Trailer is 98%full and the door is closed shut. Ready to hook up and back into the RV pad
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I caved in and gave the boy a new motorcycle. 2007kx65. Man is it a fun bike. I honestly think I road it more than him today (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170611/a853b39dac5e2a92e2fefa20361f6e66.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170611/3f2280651ada81af2d8a6490179813f3.jpg)
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Reminds me of weekends at the salton sea.
How about a pic with the bike and the lad? I see dirt and some green.
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I am usually not fast enough with my phone to get him on the move, I'll take one of him washing it today lol
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Truck report.
As of now with further conversation with Nate I think the duramax will need a little bit more love than just the cooling stack cleaned. After considering the miles and last coolant change. The lack of ever replacing the thermostats on the truck. I think I am going to go full bore and pull the radiator out, flush the block and change the thermostats and add new coolant along with the cleaning of the cooling stack
Last night I did some wire organizing to my HID and Projector lighting, the relay wiring was done in a rush and was plain sloppy. I shortened and cleaned it all up for reassembly. Need to stop at the parts store and pick up some engine degreaser to let soak on the removed parts
I can't order from mikeL for a week as he is sold out of his transmission cooler.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/19445a1cfa3a675cb23c2a467926ca36.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/01b73bac55cbfa237b9ab64c597577f2.jpg)
Trans service to follow
And batteries are dying also. Truck doesn't want to start and as it's not a daily driver it should be able to start after a week of sitting I think
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I need to do the thermos too, won't warm up. Not really an issue but throws a code now and then.
Heck, do the cooler flip you have it right there!
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:likebutton:
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JR. MikeLs give you 60% more surface area and drops 40-60 degrees of temp. That point I don't even think the flip is worth my time
https://www.alligatorperformance.com/ppe-124062000-performance-transmission-cooler-for-2006-10-gm-6-6l-duramax-lbz-lmm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJeyk20RHMfzzli5NiZOdXLREGJj6K7_1NiT_Kgm7IWPdnk-Y-BJUrugaAvgqEALw_wcB
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It looks like you have stock cooler lines.
If that is right don't worry about what I'm about to say...
If you have aftermarket lines, be very very very careful breaking the fittings loose, so as not to break the cooler at the same time. Ask me how I know.
The cooler is soldered together, and is delicate like egg shells around big wrenches...
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I don't doubt its a great cooler. I just thought it was a little pricey.
I hope it works better than my Banks cooler. 1k, didn't do a thing.
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I have read good results and just like when I paid the extra cost to drive and have MikeL take care of the trans it's the reputation and warranty he stands behind. I value the fact that when I called him on my way home at 10pm he answered my call and talked with me for a half hour or so. Made some calls and called me back kind of thing. I am honestly ok paying the extra
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Alligator has a sale today on everything, grab it!
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If you're talking about their customer appreciation sale, that's on Aug 23.
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Ah, you are correct. I saw one day but didn't see the little aug 23 on the bottom.
Gives everyone time to plan!!
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Plan in the works !!
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Today I unboxed my new pressure washer, Honda motor, 3400 psi with an adjustable pressure regulator on the handle, 25 feet of hose. It is a Stanley brand and I only paid $287.
Only issue is while unboxing I noticed the transport had damaged the On off switch and now I have to order a part before I even assemble it. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/0bbbe3b4ed5cc5792cf9bc77a179823f.jpg)
I did Hot wire it to run, added oil, turned on water and blew crappy paint off of the underside of my rear axle on my duramax. It has an amazing amount of pressure!! More photos and play to come. Need to wash off my vinyl deck and see how it looks
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On my want list sometime. I have a 2000psi electric that is OK, just OK.
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PPE was also not participating in the sale of 25 % off yesterday so I have yet to buy that cooler
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Figures,,,,,,,,
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Looking for what some of my options are, I purchased that super amazing pressure washer and it's great but..... while washing off the truck axle I discovered that there was large amounts of rust under it
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/b1c90ebc4bd7589cc0c6ec1ef609387a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/4e083ee6f1384a37fb73884b27123fce.jpg)
Suggestions?
Picked up a nylon grinder brush to start my removal of rust than thinking a good rust converter? Than maybe some por15 ?
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I would just use a converter unless you want to strip it all down. Tape off what you don't want to spray and well, spray!
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I still see paint on things Dave...I have none but on the body. Lol
But I do understand your concern too.
I'd clean it up a bit, and POR is probably the easiest.
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Dave,
Old Koot recommended Fluid film and i picked some up at Lowes. Get a can and try it, i put some on the wifes car and was impressed.
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I have to say the fluid film works great in salt water spray conditions, so it should work quite well for yours
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You all are talking about this stuff, is it paintable? At first glance it looks like it is better for pretreatment vs crap that is really rusty type stuff?
In light of rmtw oil changes:
How difficult to remove rear axle and sand blast and spray fresh metal?
1. How much do you think it weighs?
2. Leave all internals in and mask off the ends and blast away?
3. If I remove axle from truck how do I haul axle to get blasted ?
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Without tires it probably goes 350-400lbs. I think rust converter is your best option. No need to remove.
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That's not rust...scrape off the loose crap and throw some tractor paint on it .
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The good and bad of my trip for the truck.
First trouble free as all my duramax has ever been! 20 plus mpg on the way out and 19.5 on the way back.
MikeL had a look at the transmission and said it is running as it should. Full service and he called and said sell that truck!!! It drives like crap, rides like crap and makes no power!!!
This caused me some concern as this is a well known guy, been in hundreds if not thousands of trucks from everywhere.... I have had a odd undetectable pulse in the truck at 70-80 mph on a stead increase of speed. The truck will buck or jump enough to pop a 32 oz cup from the cup holder.
Me and mike called another guy. No names mentioned pm if interested but he brought over a new computer and replaced mine and they called back and said night and day difference. Change you tuning and the truck will really preform.
So complimentary tunes (5) and I am in love!!! it’s like driving a stock truck to a tuned truck sort of excitement. Blow me away smooth, powerful, fuel efficient and cleaner than what I had!
After my original tuner had data logged, adjusted and changed this or that. I got no real change in any noticeable amount. I was feeling doomed or bummed and that it was just my truck. Well she is fixed and runs amazing!!!
Happy I drove the truck and the traverse $275 for a new shift lever, full trans flush and pan drop. Plus the tuning was done for the help of helpin a guy. I call that part of my trip a win.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180102/eabdf50d773f2a205a7f689f59764c8a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180102/decaa3d090c0f3683e975724f50f70a6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180102/17aea1d9ff5b25255d1c7056b17e3a19.jpg)
The last photo will be hung in my garage for ever, This little guy Emmett was my rolling companion. If daddy’s truck was going with out him in it he was not happy. Me and him drove home and had an awesome time talking about trees, cars, race cars, big trucks, little trucks, motor cycles you name it. If momma called it was HI mom I am in daddy’s truck. Melt my cold frozen dead heart this little guy
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Great photo and story; can’t beat those kind!
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Nothing like sleeping photos of kids in car seats. I have a few. Amazing how they can sleep with their head is such weird contortions. Pm sent
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:likebutton:
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Yep, sounds like a great time.
Was this tuner a big name? I have the DSP5 but running a single 150hp tune now. Plus hearing of Dons new tune I keep thinking.
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Yeah a pretty large name.
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New tuning brings about new codes. Full throttle pull keeps telling me P0087 which is low fuel pressure. Maybe time to stop ignoring the change fuel filter and change the block mounted filter
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Replaced old filter, added new water sensor and code free!! Maintenance for the win
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:likebutton:
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Always a good feeling when you do it yourself AND it cures the issue!
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All buttoned back up, start truck to get a batteries not charging error
V meter says they are charging, edge gauge says it’s charging
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All buttoned back up, start truck to get a batteries not charging error
V meter says they are charging, edge gauge says it’s charging
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Earlier you screwed with a gremlin
Not just screwed with it, you bested it
It isn't done with you.
At this point it has probably plastered your vin all over the GFB (Gremlin facebook) where others have noticed and one just hit the "Like" button
Brace for impact young man!
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Come on Don. Don’t put me into the gremlin chase. It’s to cold for that.
I can’t even open a tool box drawer four inches when my truck is in grandmas garage. It’s way to tight to work on.
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Well much thought and conversation on the job topic. I spoke with my current manager/good friend. Told him we will work at our goals for two months and see what we can turn out ( two months so that my financing for the new home isn’t muddied with the job change) and reevaluate from there.
The construction job is open ended to start and close when I say. Joining his team only elevates his business and he is pleased to let me finish school, meet my family needs, I see a five year window of growth at a minimum here in Utah for the housing market, multiple sources feel the same. Depending on future growth of Utah (new California) has a great potential to surpass five years.
My plan is a three year with school to finish my Manufacturing Engineering degree and decide to move MBA or stay construction or just presume the engineering from that point.
I enjoy team/people management, I excel and processes and design, I thrive in a rotating environment and all three of these options provide that with the exception of HR and people not liking to be told pure blunt truth.
I am still curious what all of you guys do for work, more detailed than I work for a this and state at a computer.
I currently work for L-3 technology, I build mostly the antenna systems for UAV’s that go into the predator, U2, new U2 as we call it.
I have worked on other systems that mount to Humvees and systems that mount to the top of these Hoover type planes Don likes so much. Person to person, person to FOB to ship com systems. We do a lot of military application stuff.
What do you do?
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Me, nothin important just keeping up on the home front. My work days ended many years ago...
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I'm a design engineer for John Deere Horicon works. In Horicon we design and build the X300, X500, X700 and X900 lawnmowers and the Gators. We also design the residential Zero turn units but production of those were moved to Greenville, TN a few years back. Specifically I own the design of the mower decks for the X300 and X500 product. If you have seen any of John Deere's recent "it's not how fast you mow, but how well you mow fast" commercials those decks are my design control.
I have my bachelor's in mechanical engineering with a minor in product design. I did do one summer internship with an automotive supplier in Michigan. It was a manufacturing engineering role in the plant where they turned and assembled front half shafts.
What does my day look like? It varies depending on the time of year and timing of whatever project I am working on. I have new design responsibilities as well as making sure the factory keeps running. Top priority is always taking care of any "fires" in the factory. My day can be completely turned on it's head if I get a call from the factory floor with an issue that they need design engineering help with.
When I'm at my desk I spend a lot of time on the computer working in CAD. There is also a lot of time spent communicating with the rest of the extended team. I probably work most closely with the warranty team.
I do a little bit of travel. There might be a couple trips to Florida during the winter to do some product testing. We have a test site down there that maintains an area of grass for us when we have no grass here in WI. Because I am the only mower deck engineer in my product lines group my new usually floats to the top of the list if there is a trip planned for Europe. That happens every 3-5 years probably.
My side gig is building bumpers for trucks. It started when I built one for my 03 Dmax about 7 or 8 years ago. On average I build about 1 a week. That averages out to around 5 hours of work give or take depending on the model.
If you have any specific questions let me know.
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I'm failing at being a housewife...
Sad story
Guess I'm not trained or qualified for the position...
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I make one heck of a PB & Jelly sandwich & my nickname is lunchlady! :tongue:
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I'm failing at being a housewife...
Sad story
Guess I'm not trained or qualified for the position...
I concur with that Don. Just made frozen pasta for dinner.
Guess most of you know I am retired. LEO for 26 years.
Bear, I want to close in my aftermarket bumpers and have 2 to build for the Burb. Another thread for sure,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Like your plan Dave. Sounds like you have it worked out, sure HE will help along the way.
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Dave, I work for a very large company in the employer benefits business. I lead a team of 45 people who sell and service our customers and I also work to develop new products and strategies. I manage a P&L of about 2B in revenue and 100M in profit. I've been with this company about 15 years. My days are all over the map. 150 emails a day, several conference calls, a few in person meetings, lots of coaching with my team. Some travel for meetings and such. Lots of in person external meetings with customers and brokers who distribute our products. My college degree plan was electrical engineering but I stopped just short of finishing. After 28 years in my field I like to say I have a masters degree from the university of get your a$$ a job
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I teach HS Art & Photography; less about teaching as of late and more about managing ill behavior and figuring out how to teach those who actually want to learn in the process. I spend my day shaking my head wondering why teachers are the only ones really held accountable. State of ILLinois saw fit to pass a law that SEVERELY limits suspensions and expulsions. Needless to say, I have learned to ignore much of what I used to turn over to Deans for disciplining them as they have their hands tied. So the essence of what I due is trying to perfect the concept of picking up a turd with bare hands without getting dirty! Manager of multiple people with multiple needs with many who don’t really want your product while trying to meet the needs and desires of those who really do; required to treat them all equally - some with special behavior issues MORE equally.
(Animal Farm quote for those of you of my generation)
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I have never been envious of the direction education is going across the country, that type of position is really hard with parents who are just a useless as the students in many cases
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I think we have a tile sample and pattern picked for the house
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180203/63950c3fce92531120316863663c3370.jpg)
The sample is of a laminate pice but the tile shop is going to find us tile that matches
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Grey and herringbone, nice.
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So the documents have been signed for the house. Build design is finished.
To do list
Carpet
Tile
Light fixtures
Faucet styles
Door knobs and hardware
Window coverings
Appliance for kitchen
Laundry appliances
Wall colors
Trim (will be white)
Bedroom ceiling fans
Garage floor epoxy color
Basement stained concrete color
Cabinet shape, stain color,
Exterior hardy color
Exterior brick color
Roof shingles or metal color. Most likely shingles.
Color drive way concrete(?)
Trees to plant
Sprinkler/irrigation system design
If anyone has a suggestion of thoughts. Feel free to spew them out
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How well will shingles hold up in your area? Would metal or tile roofing hold up better? You can even get metal in a tile look or even metal 3 tab look...
Sprinklers, if using drip type for individual shrubs and trees, don't use the black plastic tubing as good old pvc has a much longer life. Have them install lots of conduit under the concrete flatwork for wiring and irrigation runs and mark/map the locations. I wish they would have used one size larger here at the winter place as I could only get 1/2" pipe through the conduit.
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I was debating on putting some 4 inch black pvc under the garage from wall to wall and going to put a few of the same under the driveway. For just that reason
My current residence we had to run water all the way around the house to water the lawn. The driveway is to wide to push water and pipe under it.
We have a large population of asphalt shingles very few metal type roofs but both will do well in the area. I don’t think the Arizona type tile will work at all with snow
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I wonder about doing that type of idea of empty plumbing under the slab in my basement?
What manner or ideas have you thought about for a drawing for locating these types of things ?
I assume I could pay an architect to draw it up, I also need a drawing of the property and house on the property so I can lay out my yard and sprinkler system
No drip system here we usually use the standard rainbird or toro pop up heads.
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Brainstorm. I am gonna draw it up on solid works. I’ll post it
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Well, for location of stuff, I am just a road worker so I just measured from a couple known points for each end and made a quick dirty not to scale drawing to have and hold forever. Same with the sewer cleanouts, and D box.
I would think some kind of metal roofing would well outlast the asphalt shingles. Biggest draw back is metal can be a bit slippery when wet if you have much of a slope to the roof.
Sprinkler....have the plumber provide a stub out from the 1 inch minimum water service line for connection of irrigation. If on metered water service, request a 1 inch or larger meter for good flow to the home and fewer sprinkler stations.
Depending on how far down the basement floor is, not sure conduit would be needed. Could be a lot of digging to get down to it.
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Pretty sure you can get a metal roof in about any style. Some are panels that look like regular shingles but last for 50 years. In a hard area 10-15 years is all for regular shingles.
Bob, I like that idea for general layout. Fixed point and no real scale.
Dave, was this one of the lots you were looking at?
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Bob,
The basement will be completely finished before move in @ 40 inches below grade. The soil in the area is pretty easy going. Thought is to hand trench a pipe under the basement slab and put in a piece of two of pipe from day the mechanical room to either side of the home (3 inch black pvc) for a gee wiz and one to the garage side.
Irrigation will be a secondary water here. I think they limit the size of inlet we are allowed to have. 1inch is probably the max. But I will ask and see if some bribery is possible.
All of the water and sewer lines are actually marked on the curb with a stamp or a pressed in metal marker so those are fixed in place.
Jr,
I would love to have a metal roof for 50 years but I am thinking more than I want to spend at the moment on the roof.
Yes this is one of the lots I looked at earlier, .50 achr with another .50 as a easement that no one will build on at one side of the line due to a watershed line that is abandoned but still usable by city if needs be the other side is a corner lot
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180214/ba0296aba774cc64ac87eb66cd8e10cd.jpg)
The lot right in the middle
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Here is the build print as of today (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/f8348a37a49de0f78857a1ed87e174e2.jpg)
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Sweet house and garage. Bedrooms up stairs? 9.5 ceilings, great!
Have them add a big door out the back. Neighbor has one, works great! You have to walk through the house to pee? With your mud room and washer dryer there a toilet would be easy!
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It would be really convenient to have a bathroom right off the garage. I see a washer and dryer in the utility room, but it would be nice to have a utility sink there also. Unless you plan for a sink in the garage.
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Just run plumbing and do later, much cheaper!
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Have them add a big door out the back.
my house in el paso had extra wide front and patio doors along with an extra wide hall and extra wide door in to all the rooms....(may have been a handicapped person living there at one point)........if I ever have another house built, this is a non-negotiable topic!!!!
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I should have said garage door.
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Agree with JR -- Garage door to the back, or a man-door at least. I see the one on the side, but that is a lot of extra walking. Maybe omit that door as it would be visible from the street and might attract the undesirables...
Appliances - stay away from Electrolux/Frigidaire (sister companies) - bad experience with them.
Definitely run a 4" ABS under the driveway slab for irrigation - heck, run two. Its cheap. As for under the garage slab... not sure what you'd use that for except maybe wiring/air hose?
Garage epoxy - use the pro stuff, not the rustoleum kit from Home Depot. Though, you probably have that factored into the price of the slab and will have the flatwork guys taking care of that, so hopefully they're using the pro stuff.
Irrigation -- Wifi controller. SOOOO nice to be able to turn on zones from your phone while you're out troubleshooting something.
Thats another thing -- structured wiring. Run everything to a central location/panel. Sounds like you have a mech room in the basement -- perfect place for that. When in doubt, run extra wires. The big thing coming out now is Mesh wifi -- maybe plan some strategic/hidden power outlets and cat5 runs so you can place multiple Wifi APs around the house for best coverage.
Christmas light plugs under the eaves connected back to dedicated circuits and timers (if you're into that sort of thing).
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I like the light outlets under the eaves. Deal with that every year and it would so much work.
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Agree with JR -- Garage door to the back, or a man-door at least. I see the one on the side, but that is a lot of extra walking. Maybe omit that door as it would be visible from the street and might attract the undesirables...
Appliances - stay away from Electrolux/Frigidaire (sister companies) - bad experience with them.
Definitely run a 4" ABS under the driveway slab for irrigation - heck, run two. Its cheap. As for under the garage slab... not sure what you'd use that for except maybe wiring/air hose?
Garage epoxy - use the pro stuff, not the rustoleum kit from Home Depot. Though, you probably have that factored into the price of the slab and will have the flatwork guys taking care of that, so hopefully they're using the pro stuff.
Irrigation -- Wifi controller. SOOOO nice to be able to turn on zones from your phone while you're out troubleshooting something.
Thats another thing -- structured wiring. Run everything to a central location/panel. Sounds like you have a mech room in the basement -- perfect place for that. When in doubt, run extra wires. The big thing coming out now is Mesh wifi -- maybe plan some strategic/hidden power outlets and cat5 runs so you can place multiple Wifi APs around the house for best coverage.
Christmas light plugs under the eaves connected back to dedicated circuits and timers (if you're into that sort of thing).
I’ll start here
No garage door out the back. Don’t care for the added access point to the house, the man door on the side will be omitted and not installed. One more door to be left unlocked
I used to be a “pro” epoxy guy polished concrete for years and years.
I think I will add abs pipe all over and under the slab like suggested. By the House by the mailbox by the sidewalk under the RV pad and one in the garage probably.
Plan for cat six to be ran at least two spots in every room, with a home run of the mech room. Good friend has a business doing it and should run to exterior for a camera system, 6-8 on the house with two inside the main kitchen area and living room basement area.
And the boss insisted on her Christmas lights. They have built in lights now that you can change the color with your phone they are pretty awesome (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/521507049b379e1d4575a0a868afd088.jpg)
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I believe you have to have an exterior standard door to the garage, not the house, for safety. With that big lot a rear roller would be nice.
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the house I moved out of last year was a split level with a 3 car garage. there was no exterior door other than the main roller doors. I hear you on the omitting the extra door. a regular man door, out of side from the street view is a lot easier to break in through than the main rollers.
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I have no walk out exterior door on my current three car garage. My last house had two separate walk out doors but the way the footprint to the house and garage was laid out I liked having both there in the country. Here in hippy land I’m grateful I have nothing but a overhead roller.
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I think if I do move the door it will be to the back wall somewhere
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I believe you have to have an exterior standard door to the garage, not the house, for safety.
I don't have one, but wish I did. My house was built 11 years ago though, and in a different locale.
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Dave, like others mentioned, I'd throw a small 4'x4'-ish toilet room in the back left corner of the garage (easy plumbing to laundry room), with a utility sink on the outside wall of that room, then throw the exterior door next to that. Then you can put a work bench in the rear-right corner or whatever. toolbox, air compressor, etc...
I can draw a pic if you're a visual guy.
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I can pose it to the builder and see what the additional cost is, I have joked about putting a urinal on the wall to use when needed.
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Heck, I am using a cup upstairs when I work right now.
There is a sink next to that rear wall as the plans show. You could tap another drain into that easy as well as the water. A toilet might be a challenge as the others or are the far side of the house and it will need to be a 3 inch pipe for that. Heck a sink out there and a urinal would be a blessing when you are working on things.
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The mud room and laundry image is misleading. I cheated it and didn’t pay the architect to draw the plan 100%. The elivation is out of wack. My garage will have 8 steps into the mud room and the front door. The space next to the mud room and garage will actually be about 5-6 feet taller than my garage floor and it will be cement (crawl space) storage if you will. So the urinal is doable the toilet in the garage I just don’t think is going to happen.
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8 steps... that's like 4+ feet. What I'm hearing now is that the ceiling will be high enough for a lift someday... :grin:
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Lift=GOOD
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8 steps... that's like 4+ feet. What I'm hearing now is that the ceiling will be high enough for a lift someday... :grin:
Oh yes it will be really tall garage doors will be 15 feet tall aprox. Loft will get built if that extra storage is trusty needed
Looking for brick color this week
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It needs a LIFT
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I could go for a lift for sure but I am not sure where in that garage I would put it. The long side I would like to keep open for the enclosed trailer
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After we built our house, one thing I would have done different is run CAT6 along with the flood light wire to each corner of the house for future cameras. It’s all spray foamed and no way to get wires there now.
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I’ve seen installers hide cat 6 behind gutters. Use the direct burial garage. Cameras now are mostly PoE meaning you only need the cat cable to power and get the image data.
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Dave, I think this deserves its own build thread!
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I don’t think it needs a build thread, already have a unused house thread. I’ll think about it
It should have camera wires(cat6) everywhere
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I think we found brick. Picture to follow the snow removal to open the truck door
A black coal color with black grout around the garage and for the soldiers course, a mixed red black brick with grey grout on the lower portion of the home.
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We picked these two colors out,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/b7e0d60786dd77d70054d13bdc0ba910.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/c8ab6a147f5c8cfd57d099ec594d896c.jpg)
The coal color I could not take a photo with out the shine on the photo, it’s is about as black as a truck tire with out tire shine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/c27c8024467f6c9e7f89167bee49c1f6.jpg)
Remember I didn’t pay the design to mod the plans to match our elevation. The basement will be about 30 inches in the ground with 9 foot ceilings, floor joists, than 9 foot walls again. It will look about like a two story home
The garage doors are going to be 15 ft tall and planning on wrapping the brick all the way to the roof line for the garage wall and hardy where print shows stucco
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If you can think of this type of house with out the roof lines but the same off set height of the garage and the main floor
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/74141bcfe067278399fe7f45d588155a.jpg)
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And just like that all of the colors and stuff picked for the house
Hired a home decorator at $150 a hour and was done in 2 hours. Everything complete minus my countertop stone
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/d3ad575b1255e3ffc7f610f67a79a3e8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/95b0485b7da4549ab97fe9e0c07cb95e.jpg)
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Will you adjust the design and have brick cover the concrete foundation/basement down to final grade? All that raw concrete would negatively impact your design and overall look of the place IMO.
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I am not what the plan is, the front of the home between the front door and garage wall will be back filled with dirt. The basement window will have a window well so it can be all flowers and garden area.
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Any pics from the designer?
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I find that, if nothing else, the $150/hr for the designer is like a referee to settle differences with the wife without having an argument.
Gonna look great Dave. Is that little door next to right of the main garage door the doggie door??
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Sorry Jr, no pictures from the designer.
Yeah about that door Tex. I think it’s getting cut out or moved to the far back of the garage
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Signing papers on our construction loan next week
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And soul is sold to the devil now
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And here is our lot.
150x150 feet (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180316/b57a8b0da0ea22a37524d521ce1641fd.jpg)
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I know that has to be exciting. What’s that behind you there?
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Older farmer, I have waved but haven’t had a chance to chat yet. He sits on a little over a acre of property. Not sure what is in his garage yet either. Seems like a nice enough chap
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What size was your lot?
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I believe he said 150x150
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1/2 acre is all,
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1/2 acre is all,
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I wish I had a half acre, or more......:tongue:
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We are taking applications for neighbors Nate, the more people I pick the less I will hate
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I knew he said it earlier, just didn't feel like looking.
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Exciting times! Congrats Dave!
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So been a min. And I don’t have a truck forum started
The duramax 2007 classic 145k on the od
Recently ( with in the past three years) I rebuilt all of the front suspension parts trans has been built by MikeL and service a second time by home
I have had a heat issue since than
I added the trans cooler from MikeL
I flushed the fluids
I cleaned the stack
Now it’s took my out again after our trip to Moab. It was suggested than my cooling fan isn’t engaging?
So simple price I ordered and installed
How to install a LBZ cooling fan:
First remove two 12 mm bolts from top of radiator shroud
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/0e685d1757d5bd93d101d5add447cc62.jpg)
And second on passenger side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/66821f278daf972620026fced9b75839.jpg)
There is two of the dam-it clips on each side. Remove them .
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/4c3fba171bf8a686ad754cdd77f4bfa7.jpg)
Tho computer module folds out of the way and you can lift the half of the shroud out of the way.
Next you see the circle around your fan
Cut that stupid A thing out of the way. I used my dewalt vibe saw. Worked great!
Next use this too which is far superior to any other silly idea on YouTube. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/23f9948e542c4995130e003b55f1dd6b.jpg)
Slip on the fan clutch nut and use the chisel to remove.
Spin the fan off and replace with new parts
Finish cut out all of that stupid plastic guard off and place in storage facility
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/f3b5163dfc45fef38387a902c3446c7b.jpg)
Re assemble and don’t forget to torque all bolts and nuts to three ugga Ugga uggas
Test drive tomorrow or the next day. To update temp
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You cut the shroud off?
Doesn't that work together with the clutch to cool at lower speeds?
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You cut the shroud off?
Doesn't that work together with the clutch to cool at lower speeds?
Typically yes, that is my understanding at least. :huh:
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Otherwise it sucks air from the side instead of through the radiator.
Might want to dig that out of the trash
Try sucking through a straw without putting your lips on it
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The air is still directed towards the motor, it’s just missing the circle around the fan. I guess we will find out. The one in the van isn’t going back on. It’s in forty pieces.
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I found a few threads on the diesel forum. Gents who lived in extreme temp areas like AZ experience some issues with out having the wagon wheel, others like Hook’em in Texas didn’t experience any change. I think for the time I’ll let the whole thing sit. Found a second post about putting the kodiak fan clutch on the truck which has a lower temp setting that the LBZ, it does position the fan 1/2 inch further into the radiator but I think there is room.
There needs to be a bigger roof cause for the heating issue. If the fan doesn’t fix it. It’s time to re replace the thermostat and boil it to see if it’s functions correctly
After that I am at a loss
The second project I took part of last night is the front bumper. Some magical something happened and caused one side of the bumper to push up and back towards the passenger tire.
I can’t see any visual damage as if someone hit something, but the passenger tire rubs a lot and before my Moab trip it did not. So I pulled the bumper off and will order some new brackets off amazon. I was unsuccessful at getting it to just move or slide or adjust to where it needed to be with trying to tweak it into matching drive-passenger side to side.
The small wing brackets on the outside is what I am going to order today
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You have a heating problem, so you throw away part of the cooling system? Knucklehead
Just change the 2 thermostats and order a new wagon wheel that "only people from Az need"
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Thermos are easy, its dexcool that is pricy!
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Ok folks
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190621/c056f85a252d9c4ba08915796645c449.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190621/d7ee6971a31905e66e572c27fbd5a9b4.jpg)
I got their silly wagon wheel thing installed, I have the fan back installed.
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Good going, now check the thermostats and you should be good at go go
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I think I am going to run it after I get the bumper straightened out. Than see if it still gets hot. Don’t want to change to many things at once and not have the satisfaction of knowing what it was for sure
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Hmm
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When you cleaned the stack did you actually take everything apart to clean it?
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Yes I did, I had the radiator left in the support, the other two I removed and set on the ground ( can’t remember which I think the intercooler) the other was folded open like a Chinese fan. They were surprisingly clean. But soaked them with engine degreaser and rinsed.
I should get the new bumper valance today, the factory grey was really weathered and brittle, that gets here and I’ll get it installed and go for a drive.
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Spent the last part of me eve on my back under the truck, installing that stupid exhaust. Holy Molley that was a stupid design, The instruction were ripped into shreds when I opened the box, the parts are poorly labeled and the clamps are made of Chinese garbage.
I stripped two of the five inch clamps with my 20v impact/screw gun.
I have a exhaust hanger that has been cut off of my frame, so the exhaust is wired with some rebar tie wire in that location until it moves under its own power to get to the welder/fabercoble guy
Sounds ridiculously loud and I will be ordering a muffler.
Straight five inch exhaust from MRBP. I would not suggest to anyone.
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I put new exhaust on my last gas pickup a 2007 GM 6.0, Man it was noisy in the cab after that. It got traded in for a diesel rig and I have never looked back. With the exhaust burning clean and no diesel smell in the cab I am really sold on these rigs. Yes the 2011 spent some time in the shop because of the DEF system problems but when it is working it is great. I don't really understand spending money and time trying to improve the HP on these rigs as they have way more power than what I need pulling what I pull.
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.... I don't really understand spending money and time trying to improve the HP on these rigs as they have way more power than what I need pulling what I pull.
That's just a sign of getting old Bob.
I'm not there quite yet..still love being put back in the seat, eardrums vibrating on acceleration, and the smell of diesel in the morning. :)
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I notice the extra bump in HP to even not towing. I run 100 all the time with a cat and no muffler, only load when I get on it :laugh:
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Well. I added some bumper tonight. I spaced a few washers behind the bumper brackets to give me 1/4 inch of space behind the bumper. Essentially giving me a 1/4 inch more room that hopefully my tires won’t rub. I will still have to trim the new black bumper valance but it will still look better than the dingy ugly falling apart grey one
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190625/28740ccca9651f476610734e1df019aa.jpg)
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On initial start and drive. The fan clutch works. No towing yet as I am missing some exhaust brackets still and the short drive to the shop isn’t enough to make me worry about parts falling off
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One more step closer to having a fence in the yard, 78 post holes dug in a real quick min with this little rental since I couldn’t beg a free skid out of all the slc jobs
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/65fe6cb56e0de791f2c386addae09326.jpg)
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Ah, dave
One of ma fav chores
Punching holes with the Kubota in the Air conditioning of the cab is not work at all.
Even better when those twins get a bit longer. You can just sit there while they clear the tailings away from the hole and set the poles for ya. Two future tools for ya right there...good times a-comin! ;-)
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Washed my truck after the trip to my buddies property, Wheels took a small bit of damage and the chrome on the bumper took some abuse from the pressure washer today also
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190707/a6c3ee6b876bde2364318612cc5fd35a.jpg)p(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190707/d646b711952c3e64bded2041e565ab67.jpg)
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How do you like the ridge grapplers off road?
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X2?
Look better for rocky or snow covered spots, but not enough space between tread blocks for any serious clay based mud.
They look like great tires for the southwestern areas
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How do you like the ridge grapplers off road?
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So far they last a great many miles. This is my second set. I had 49k miles on the last set of them.
They do pretty good on snowy roads Not bfg all terrain good but better than the mud tires.
They do well in mud up here but that’s mostly my job sites as far as my experience goes. We have sandy soil, rocky soil and places like mine it’s clay under some top soil. They clean out good with some wheel speed and haven’t let me down yet.
The rocky gravel roads seem to work fine. I put 25 miles in on a pretty gnarly road with lots of 55mph and lots of vertical tire spinning hill climbing. I have zero chunking from the trip. They are aired up a good 65 lbs which may hinder the gravel road performance.
I would not hesitate to purchase another set however the next ford will be stock height and some much more freeway friendly tire wheel combo
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Today on the Silverado I finally added those airbags
I should be able to stop that California lean now
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/c934da6c207ee3a447ad2a65770e1259.jpg)
It’s a simple system with china man instructions but I made do.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/c46cc2cd15c2f834bc85f07d5fc75822.jpg)
I also finished the replacement parts for the b&w turnover ball hitch I have had. The previous owner of the hitch had some really hoaky parts that were simply not factory.
It’s all factory now
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And what are the 2 things hanging off the bottom of the bumper?
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Those are the air valves
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And what are the 2 things hanging off the bottom of the bumper?
Oh man, not this argument again.
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And what are the 2 things hanging off the bottom of the bumper?
Oh man, not this argument again.
Did I miss an argument somewhere Ken?
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Yeah, what’s the arguement other than don’t hang stuff from bottom of bumper......
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Yeah, what’s the arguement other than don’t hang stuff from bottom of bumper......
Is it because it’s low? I figured the hitch would block all things that might catch
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Valves are no big deal, now that hitch!
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Valves are no big deal, now that hitch!
What would you have me do with it? Not like your can buy a class V that is hidden any better
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The hanging hitch, not the receiver. Just playing I know it comes off.
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That thing never comes off. It’s the don’t ride my bumper intimidater.
It’s all good. I need to simply park it and drive the Jetta these days
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Yeah, what’s the arguement other than don’t hang stuff from bottom of bumper......
Is it because it’s low? I figured the hitch would block all things that might catch
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Probably will, I just try not to do that as Murphy likes to screw with me a bit.....
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Your hitch ball got grease all over my pant leg. Maybe you were a bit too close to my truck. :huh:
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I don’t think I have ever greased a trailer ball, never toe for long enough stretches to need to I guess
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I am just old school and grease does help keep the noise down. I tried the wax thing but didn’t get all the grease off first so everything turned black anyway. I tried a ball with the top half having a plastic covering. I promptly knocked that off backing into the coupler which was just low enough to scrape it off.
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Yeah, what’s the arguement other than don’t hang stuff from bottom of bumper......
Once upon a time several of us were arguing over over having one common shrader, or keeping the bags separate with 2 valves. Iirc I was on the 2 valve wagon while Boss and some dude from Texas said it didn't matter, but my memory is like something else... keeps getting shorter.
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I guess one would work, You loose pressure in one bag you might as well empty the other bag
No sense in one siding riding different
What did you kids come up with?
I think I remember tex doing something on his dually long long ago
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I’m of the one fill camp. Those who worried about air transfer from one bag to the other in turns are over thinking it IMO It would have to be a high speed long sweeping turn with a lot of weight to transfer any significant air. And yeah one full bag and one empty is not helpful if one leaks
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I’m of the one fill camp. Those who worried about air transfer from one bag to the other in turns are over thinking it IMO It would have to be a high speed long sweeping turn with a lot of weight to transfer any significant air. And yeah one full bag and one empty is not helpful if one leaks
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I didn’t account for air transfer on a one valve system
Did you try it for any time?
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Dave, I've run one valve for years. I do a lot of hard cornering trying to get any speed at all on these windy roads. Haven't noticed anything except for great handling all the time.
The camper I built??? I set that up for individual air valves. One bag leaks and I end up with the camper sitting all crooked and leaning. Fits the motif when I'm crusin' in the hood, but doesn't work anywhere else... :rolleyes:
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I’m of the one fill camp. Those who worried about air transfer from one bag to the other in turns are over thinking it IMO It would have to be a high speed long sweeping turn with a lot of weight to transfer any significant air. And yeah one full bag and one empty is not helpful if one leaks
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I didn’t account for air transfer on a one valve system
Did you try it for any time?
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Yes. My set up on the dually was a single fill. 20,000 miles of towing without issue
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Hum. Interesting enough. To late to change now, Howe’s drilled and lines ran
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All you have to do is cut the line, add a T and you have 1 valve.
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Except I drilled two holes in my mount plate. That would just look silly
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So drill another hole, then use the center one. Or, replace the mounting piece or, just not worry about it. People don’t tend to get on their hands and knees looking to see how many holes you drilled.
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Except I drilled two holes in my mount plate. That would just look silly
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Sounds like my kids,,,,,,,,,
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So drill another hole, then use the center one. Or, replace the mounting piece or, just not worry about it. People don’t tend to get on their hands and knees looking to see how many holes you drilled.
I can’t think of a logical reason to change what I have, meets the manufacturer specs
I’m good. Two air valves is ok by me.
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You did it the right way Dave. The only right way.
Why would you take advice from one guy that doesn't want an accurate temp gauge, and another that uses a trailer to haul something that would fit in the trunk of a Yugo?
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Oh man!!
How much air do you guy run in them when truck is empty?
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But when the truck appears to be empty it is full of air......so when the bed of the truck is full of stuff, you just move the air from the bed of the truck into the bags. That way you have it with you for when you take all the stuff out of the back.
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But when the truck appears to be empty it is full of air......so when the bed of the truck is full of stuff, you just move the air from the bed of the truck into the bags. That way you have it with you for when you take all the stuff out of the back.
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Good grief
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:popcorn:
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My bags said 3-5lb minimum. To keep the bags from pinching if the suspension were to bottom out
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I noticed my suspension will drop further then my bags will allow.
Do I need some sort of limit straps or are the bags held together well enough to keep together?
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I noticed my suspension will drop further then my bags will allow.
Do I need some sort of limit straps or are the bags held together well enough to keep together?
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They're fine.
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Oh man!!
How much air do you guy run in them when truck is empty?
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I just keep mine 40-60 somewhere and deal with the ride
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Among other projects here at the house. The wife wanted me to install our security cameras and the DVR deal to record, In the home run room I have many junk piles, like the Christmas stuff, the excess paper goods, kids toys we have taken away in black garbage bags and a washer and dryer the kids use, dads gun safe
I previously mounted the Poe switch and patch panels in a computer rack. Now I need to mount a screen/monitor on the wall to more easily view the cameras.
First I wanted a cabinet to set junk on
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210324/e946c0de39927c14c770518ac15404d4.jpg)
Now I need a counter top of some sort. Burch ply is what is coming to mind as it’s cheap and easy to cut.
Then I’ll hang the screen.
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Ply on top then melame or similar. You can destroy and replace! Or just go with regular kitchen counter on sale. What about cutting board? A little pricier but looks good and solid.
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I’m going to stop by the old cabinet shop tomorrow and see what they have laying around. If it’s $free.99 I’ll take it.
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Burch ply and some scrap doors for an end panel. I definitely don’t care about the color. The toe trim will even be white lol
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210324/02e05077a779fb3f7c7a2979db29fe8c.jpg)
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Pulled the motor from that banshee sitting in the garage, off to get new pistons, fix the transmission, maybe some port work. See how far my $ goes
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210410/8fe2b0356dffe48dcb56542eaf31e138.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210410/b7a18256e23344ffdb70f2733e501edd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210410/dec78e488265893f8e7bc9fac758980b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210410/ee0be2cd59c4a82b20dd278504be7e74.jpg)
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Finished hooking up the camera system for the house
Need to run two more cat6 wires to the deck and the garage inside
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/36f5d0b849077f80a5ae7430d28499fe.jpg)
Now you guys can see everywhere Harley takes a leak and my unfinished projects
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Well, you do have a new job right?
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Yeah I start driving Monday under my temp permit
The driving test is booked out two months
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Off on another riding trip with a good friend ( his little boy bailed out) and my twins. Not much more could I ask for then be able to have boys with similar interests as me and be able to afford it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/c4eed36265758ff4be5a3001d5a65c46.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/df71f520eb0718bc52a8651b3020049e.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210516/cd59ada65b4084a479e72d4c99449f36.jpg)
No the boys didn’t follow me on this path.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210516/7156e0dfc3e1f2388b0aca3fefd8f080.jpg)
As this was the path up to the top
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:likebutton:
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Tonight was time to finish up grandmas rose trellis. It was designed for 4x4 post but hell I got metal for about the same price and these are straight and will work perfect because I don’t have to drill bolt holes when I have a mig.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210814/2df32c37ea0c01cb281712aced3b6c6a.jpg)
About three feet wide and 7.5 feet tall to place in the yard for her rose to climb
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Finished the RV pad on the west side of my house 102’ with the wider section being 22 feet wide.
Should be able to shoe horn in two trailers right next to each other
28 ton of 3/4 minus on the weed barrier and about 4” thick
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210815/29d08fbacbc363029c8fd83ae761210f.jpg)
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:likebutton:
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Nice work!!! :likebutton:
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Nice work!!! :likebutton:
Drug home one of our Deere 333 and made short work of it. Love some tracks for level work!
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And planted with a bag of cement in each hole.
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As in mixed correctly outside of the hole and poured in?......or bag dumped and some water squirted on top of it?
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As in mixed correctly outside of the hole and poured in?......or bag dumped and some water squirted on top of it?
The ol trusty bag dump and a 5er over the top of water.
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Thats how I did my gate posts, so far so good.
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Every vinyl fence I have put up the last few years was done the same way one to one and it’s been fine
I even had to try and break up a few of my posts a while back. It gets hard lol
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As in mixed correctly outside of the hole and poured in?......or bag dumped and some water squirted on top of it?
The ol trusty bag dump and a 5er over the top of water.
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Thats how I did my gate posts, so far so good.
Every vinyl fence I have put up the last few years was done the same way one to one and it’s been fine
I even had to try and break up a few of my posts a while back. It gets hard lol
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:facepalm: :popcorn:
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freshly laid gravel is like freshly cut lawn. i don't know what it is in my brain, but that just looks satisfying. nice work
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freshly laid gravel is like freshly cut lawn. i don't know what it is in my brain, but that just looks satisfying. nice work
Thanks Tate
I just need a good rain storm to wash the rock in and get rid of the white looking rock, it’s supposed to me grey like the rest of the crushed rock in the house area
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And the rains came and the winds blew snd my concrete stayed put!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/ecf333cf7e1538a5d59462931e19659f.jpg)
Now to swing my gates up
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And the other side finished also
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Did you use a vibratory plate compactor on it?
Looks good.
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Did you use a vibratory plate compactor on it?
Looks good.
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I assume your talking about the gravel?
No I haven’t used a plate compactor yet, we ran the skid over it a good lot of times but i plan on a compactor plate when I see one at the shop sitting.
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Grandma is off to England for the next month
She had someone install that laminate floor junk, they didn’t do anything with her trim so it needed all redone in the dinning room, kitchen, bathroom area.
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I finished it all off with 4x3/4 oak trim that I killed out of rough sawn white oak. We stained it to match her cabinet doors
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Next on my todo list ls hang some cheap kitchen tear out cabinet uppers in my garage
I pulled the doors, sanded what I could on the dirty fast manner, sprayed them with kilz primer, the ugly color yellow bled through anyway. So instead of white I tinted my color grey and said it is what it is
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I tried at the house using a wiz roller and I couldn’t handle the rough texture, plus the white primer is a flat finish not a gloss.
So off to the cabinet shop and do it with a pump in the spray booth
Tomorrow I’ll bring the boxes over and spray the outsides. As long as the doors are shut it will look good enough to store cans of junk, cleaning and polish products and so forth!
More to come tomorrow after I go ride the dirt scooter!
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Off to spray the boxes after some ride time
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Last night before I left the shop. I think the doors will be good enough
I’ll spray the backs and then the box edges and call it China
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And just like that I can wait till they dry
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Bike helmets?
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Max speed was maybe 20 mph.
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Got my cabinets hung today!
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I loaded them up and emptied the metal cabinets and I still have room with lots of space. So nice to open a door and see only parts cleaner and spray lubricants and such or another door snd only car detail products!
I next hung up the fishin pole thing I ordered using some S drives from the HVAC world
Should keep them out of the way and tangle free
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We went fishing on Saturday and the lack of water has killed off all the mino fish which provided lots of food for the big fish so we played teach the boys how to skip rocks instead.
I also hung up my chop saw stand and some left over vinyl fence pieces in case one breaks from a rock or baseball or something
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211004/15199dec64ffce7b896e08e2ebecd3c0.jpg)
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Looks good. Funny I just built the stand for my HF saw at the ridge, pretty nice early.
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^^^Nice clean work^^^^
Cabinets came out great!
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I have so much stuff in my rafters they will never get sheetrocked!
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Well I picked up a new to us camp trailer Friday.
2008 keystone 37’ fifthwheel
12’ garage
4 queen size beds, 3 slide outs kitchen and what not.
It’s not in terrible shape
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The new truck drove great on a 5 hour drive there and did good on the way home with the trailer bouncing behind.
19 mpg was my avg on the way down and 8 on the way home.
Need need need airbags terribly bad!
Next up but the stuff out of the trailer to give it the Dave clean! Took anything that wasn’t structural out and sprayed and wiped down or vacuumed.
Tossed the mattresses!
Pulled all the cabinets and cleaned them inside and out and greased the tracks!
Then set about the “things” that don’t look correct
Like the sliding pocket door that was wired open, needs a new track so I’ll source one tomorrow from the hardware store.
Need to rewire the big ugly 240 50amp cord, I picked up new ends for that and plugged the trailer into the house to keep it going strong!
Checked all gas appliances and they all seem to work ( water heater I haven’t messed with as it’s getting cold)
The lights on the inside all upgraded to LeD the outside is another story so I’ll get those coming.
The furnace smell!! Oh man does it smell terrible! Not sure on the fix for it yet but working on a plan via clean the duct work, then see about the furnace it’s self.
The exterior finish leaves me with much anxiety because the graphics are a wreck! So I started on one section tonight. Rubber eraser wheel snd then some light parts cleaner then the polisher, I’ll need to get out the big ten inch and wool pad again and see if I remember how to use that monster!! To take the oxidation off.
The landing gear needs greased something real bad. Or I pull them and get dual motors and new gear for $800
Tires look in good shape, batteries new, under side needs some clean, carpets cleaner tomorrow am, new awning needed,
You know a used project
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More to come as the week moves along
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Nice, but whats wrong with the plug?
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The outer sheld was broken around plug and he put duct tape around it. It’s not a serviceable plug so I just replaced it. Both ends were pretty weathered and brittle
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What is the date on the tires? About 6 years max or stuff can happen. One blow out can ruin the traile r and the day
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Nice looking outfit Dave.
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Mine are at least 10 years old, but never in the sun. Sure don't want to buy new ones just to get it up to the Ridge.
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I think that looks great!
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What is the date on the tires? About 6 years max or stuff can happen. One blow out can ruin the traile r and the day
They were replaced this spring if he was telling the truth.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211019/bd7da61bde7cd62d529d511d4c7b5739.jpg)
Carpet came out great
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Looking good Dave.
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Nice rig Dave, think I lost track did you finish the enclosed trailer too?
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Nice rig Dave, think I lost track did you finish the enclosed trailer too?
It didn’t get finished but I’ll back burner it for now. Ready to get out now and time isn’t in my favor lol
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Got some more led lights in
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211020/94635d0e1c64a5ae56312ef98919920a.jpg)
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Di you change the bulbs or new fixtures? I have stupid round light that light up everything!
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I just put new bulbs in, not really impressed and thinking about taking these things off snd a piece of black abs and a new light pod screwed to it. Nervous about taking these big ugly squares off. Not sure what’s behind them
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Got the heat duct cleaned with a dryer vent thing from Amazon for thirty bucks lol!
Got my couch back in place and the kitchen table back.
Now to remove the master bed mattress and see what nightmare I’ll find under it
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Ducts came out pretty well
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211021/ba516ecaf934a7e6e95c285449334efa.jpg)
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Don,
Curious how your trailer has held up in the insulated state and permanent parked location.
Mice take over and you moved out? Don’t stay down there often ?
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Thinking about that with mine. Going to surround with 2" foam panels to help with critters, and traps/bait!
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Don,
Curious how your trailer has held up in the insulated state and permanent parked location.
Mice take over and you moved out? Don’t stay down there often ?
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It's not all that great but holding up.
I chase roof leaks and mice are a problem
How big a problem you ask?
We went in there the other weekend and there was a six foot snake skin on the kitchen floor
I want to get rid of it and force myself to get some heated/AC space dried in in the coming of age new cabin reno.
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Wow!!! That’s nutz. Sounds like we need a game camera in the trailer
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Today I climbed on the roof and applied some of the dicor roof sealant patch on and around a few spots that had failed
Parts plus brake cleaner, wire wheel attachment on the dewalt drill, some rags from the bag and off to work.
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The wire wheel made short work at a slow speed on the loose roof glue and the brake cleaner did a fine job removing grime. Rumor has it this stuff cures no matter what the temp is so I’ll give that a try lol 25 degrees last night
And I also replaced that missing cap but no photo as I left my phone on the ground.
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I guess I missed this thread somehow.
Nice trailer, 3 years newer than mine. Wish I had the 3rd slide out but now that it's in Idaho I guess it doesn't matter.
Before we left it there I put about 20 small plastic bowls in the cabinets, drawers, and luggage compartments, with Cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil. That's supposed to keep the rodents away, but since it's parked in the woods, they might not care once it gets snow on the ground. I put a bunch in the excavator also since it had a nest in it last time.
Too bad the camera died that was pointed at the trailer, right after the bears were messing around it .
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Moth balls under it too.
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Moth balls under it too.
I can’t do the moth balls or the poison pellets as the dogs have freedom around the trailer, I’ll definitely be leaving some lights on in it. Some of the other rv forums have talked about how much just leaving a light on in the trailer does to keep rodents out.
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