Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2020, 06:23:37 PM
OK, so not technically starting this just yet. I really was not looking to buy a truck for a couple months but had been watching this one for about a month and a half. Last Friday they dropped the price again and it was too good to let it pass. I made an offer and several hours later they called back and we negotiated the sale price which I paid this morning. Yes, there are much nicer configured trucks but I need a work truck and more bells and whistles really aren't my thing anyhow. The truck is a 2010 F350 XL 4x4 Auto W/ 6.4L Diesel 3.73 gears. Has manual 4x4, AC, rubber floor liner and cloth, fairly clean on the inside and even has a radio. The bed is missing a tailgate and the one big dent is drivers side of bed just behind cab. The unit has 170K on the clock and the last two owners have lost money on this unit. It does run and move on its own accord but has a low engine knock just starting, plan is to video motor running and pull it then sell as a buildable replacement unit.
So the plan is to acquire the circa 2000 24V from Ken (low mileage 130K I think he stated) that he has been stowing away for some time now. Baylee and I are going to pick it up weekend after this coming one on way back home from KOH. It is missing some parts to make it run but think we can address that issue w/o much problem.
Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2020, 06:32:24 PM
-24V Cummins (build to 400-500 reliable HP)
-ATS Aurora 3000 turbo or upgraded Holset turbo
-P-pump conversion (scored the high output 210hp pump, front case and oil pan 2-22-20)
-adjustable overflow valve (per America.mike)
-FASS Titanium Fuel Pump or air dog (leaning air dog atm)
-125HP injectors (maybe 150?)
-CAI
-Arp head and rod bolts
-upgraded push rods, springs etc
-Hamilton towing cam
-afc live
-After market exhaust manifold
-Pull the oem 5R110 trans and have it built (thinking ATS stage 2) ATS is a local company here and we will run a stand alone controller for it.
-Destroked in Wheat Ridge another local company to help with components to make this swap painless
-37" tires, leveling kit and new shocks at all corners
-Pull OEM bed and sell it, upgrade to a steel flat bed and gn ball
-Build / Purchase a removable lifting crane to load and unload heavy components onto bed (axles and parts I seem to be dealing with / moving weekly now) 1-31-20 I just bartered for a like new northern tool item# 52514 score!
-Better front Bumper, aftermarket and a set of steps for the short better half to get in it
Diesels particularly cummins are not my thing and I know there is plenty of expertise around here so by all means pick the plan apart and make suggestions as you see fit. The last diesel I had for 6 or 7 years F350 dually 7.3L so once I get trucks the way I want them it wouldn't be out of line for me to keep it ten years or longer. I want this built right, initial buy in is cheap considering. I want it done correctly the first time and have funds to make that happen on this build.
Post by: Farmer Jon on January 28, 2020, 07:35:55 AM
Aluminum looks real nice if you don't actually haul anything on the bed. I found it dents easily. We have an aluminum bed on one of the farms dodge duallys. I hauled a rear end on it one time. Now its dented and scratched. I was very careful loading and unloading. If you are just going to pull a trailer all the time then go aluminum but if you are going to be hauling stuff go steel.
Post by: Flyin6 on January 28, 2020, 10:30:29 AM
What Shawn is doing here fits the modern condition so very well.
The truck chassis of the Ford is good and proven. It isn't old and all rusted up, so we are just talking about a mechanical modification, and not having to clean frames, weld on door skins and trying to find non existent parts. So we take a modern truck chassis that benefits from technology and is not old and place in it a proven albeit much simpler powerplant and proven transmission.
For much, much less than the cost of a new truck or even a good used diesel, you get something that you built. Something that cost much less and doesn't have you buried in payments. You get something you know all about, and you get better everything. Better mileage, better performance, and that wow factor that, face it, we all enjoy
Hats off to my steel toe'd friend on embarking on this adventure!
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 10:42:47 AM
Most flatbeds you get will have a built in goose neck ball. Its recessed in the middle of the bed. No need for the turn over ball.
Aluminum looks real nice if you don't actually haul anything on the bed. I found it dents easily. We have an aluminum bed on one of the farms dodge duallys. I hauled a rear end on it one time. Now its dented and scratched. I was very careful loading and unloading. If you are just going to pull a trailer all the time then go aluminum but if you are going to be hauling stuff go steel.
Thanks for advice on aluminum, was wondering about that. I’ll go steel and unless I can find what I want will most likely build my own.
Thanks Don, this should be interesting and a bit out of my comfort zone but having some local expertise should go a long way. I may end up paying more in that regards (parts) however in the long run I think it makes sense.
Post by: Flyin6 on January 28, 2020, 11:20:56 AM
Cool
Cost effective
Totally useable
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 11:34:32 AM
If you keep it inside the shootlane limits, it will make a bunch of sense.
Cool
Cost effective
Totally useable
Yeah, I’m debating 35’s versus 37’s just for that reason. As a useable truck 37’s are pushing it, and I know I can squeeze in 35’s w/ stock suspension too.
Post by: BobbyB on January 28, 2020, 07:46:37 PM
Post by: swbhobie16 on January 28, 2020, 07:52:23 PM
So just a question from me.. If you're going to have a motor built up anyway; why not just build up the 6.4? It's already there, there are upgrades and fixes, and you won't have problems later on due to a motor swap?
the way i understand it, a 6.4, even one built up, is a 100k mi time bomb. one diesel guy here in town has put 2 in 1 truck. not counting the original one that came out.
Post by: swbhobie16 on January 28, 2020, 07:55:22 PM
the guy putting an LBZ in a square body :facepalm: )hahah
Post by: BobbyB on January 28, 2020, 07:55:46 PM
Just my observation as a neutral participant.
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 08:01:42 PM
So just a question from me.. If you're going to have a motor built up anyway; why not just build up the 6.4? It's already there, there are upgrades and fixes, and you won't have problems later on due to a motor swap?
Valid question, the 5.9 which Ken has is a proven platform for over 20 years and thousands of builds, races etc. or trillions of miles working. The performance aftermarket support is tremendous for that platform.
The 6.4 I personally put in the same category as a 6.0 of which I owned one once and will never again. You can fix it but as mentioned already it’s still a ticking time bomb. The 5.9 I’m not fixing, just building to gain larger hp/tq numbers. There are some 5.9’s with issues, it’s actually one block casting number that has thinner piston walls, the one Ken has is not one of those.
The Cummins engines were built to be utilized in many platforms. The way that Ford sets up their trucks it is fairly easy to drop in a separate power plant. I could have bought a Dodge chassis but from my perspective / experience they are not built as well as the fords. So this in my opinion is best if both worlds and less “new emissions technology” to deal with which should help mpg’s and reliability.
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 08:07:26 PM
All depends on how you treat them. Example of everyone talks bad about the 6.0, I have friends who owned them and never had a problem who towed horse trailers, work trailers some tuned, some stock and a couple friends who had nothing but problems, the difference.. how they ran them and abused them.
Just my observation as a neutral participant.
My perspective on the 6.0l I never abused it. It ran good for 150k with regular maintenance (only mod was 4” exhaust) stock tune etc. I pulled a 36’ enclosed trailer 16k with it. Once it hit 150k it was nothing but problems and money and more money and bs from the dealer working on it. Literally between my bil and I we spent over $20k on two 6.0l trucks. Ford owes a lot of people a lot of money. International had that identical motor in thousands of large trucks with no issues. Ford cranked up the numbers to compete and blew it. My 2 cents.....
Post by: Flyin6 on January 28, 2020, 08:10:27 PM
I think 37's are fine. I have run them for years, wheeling, towing, but, always...Always steerin' clear of those mall speed bumps and mulch beds!If you keep it inside the shootlane limits, it will make a bunch of sense.
Cool
Cost effective
Totally useable
Yeah, I’m debating 35’s versus 37’s just for that reason. As a useable truck 37’s are pushing it, and I know I can squeeze in 35’s w/ stock suspension too.
You should too!
Post by: KensAuto on January 28, 2020, 08:12:37 PM
To put it mildly, if Satan was an engineer, he was definitely responsible for the cluster*** known as a late model F series.
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 08:13:35 PM
My goal is under $20k invested, I think if you were on a budget you could do the swap and be all in on this truck around or under $10k.
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 08:14:23 PM
I'll add another benefit... have any of you ever worked on a 6.4, or even looked under the hood of that platform?
To put it mildly, if Satan was an engineer, he was definitely responsible for the cluster*** known as a late model F series.
Yeah, pretty much spot on.....
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2020, 08:16:05 PM
I think 37's are fine. I have run them for years, wheeling, towing, but, always...Always steerin' clear of those mall speed bumps and mulch beds!If you keep it inside the shootlane limits, it will make a bunch of sense.
Cool
Cost effective
Totally useable
Yeah, I’m debating 35’s versus 37’s just for that reason. As a useable truck 37’s are pushing it, and I know I can squeeze in 35’s w/ stock suspension too.
You should too!
37’s on this truck just look so much better......
Post by: BobbyB on January 28, 2020, 10:25:00 PM
Valid question, the 5.9 which Ken has is a proven platform for over 20 years and thousands of builds, races etc. or trillions of miles working. The performance aftermarket support is tremendous for that platform.
The 6.4 I personally put in the same category as a 6.0 of which I owned one once and will never again. You can fix it but as mentioned already it’s still a ticking time bomb. The 5.9 I’m not fixing, just building to gain larger hp/tq numbers. There are some 5.9’s with issues, it’s actually one block casting number that has thinner piston walls, the one Ken has is not one of those.
The Cummins engines were built to be utilized in many platforms. The way that Ford sets up their trucks it is fairly easy to drop in a separate power plant. I could have bought a Dodge chassis but from my perspective / experience they are not built as well as the fords. So this in my opinion is best if both worlds and less “new emissions technology” to deal with which should help mpg’s and reliability.
Sounds reasonable. I started thinking about the last time someone started an engine swap for a upgraded,more powerful, reliable one...that didn't work out so well in the end.
But in the end I'm still going to watch the build.
Post by: KensAuto on January 29, 2020, 10:38:54 PM
Post by: BobbyB on January 30, 2020, 09:29:23 PM
Bobby, you don't say much, but when you do,....... Lol
It's a gift Ken. Subtlety can be used for great effect.
Post by: Flyin6 on January 31, 2020, 10:06:18 AM
Good work
and
you know the third or forth axiom of work
Which reads:
He who does work, just has to work
Whereas, he who does good work will often be called on to do even more work
So
Not me
But in keepin' wit the way things is (Or outta beee)
Please just make up a short writeup of the process, links, fees, and recommendations
I'm gunna make a stickie outta that
Hey, we don't believe in breakin' de rules, but when they hand you a fresh twenty dolla bill, then it's fine to go buy Don and yerself a cup of Joe on their dime...
So let it be writtin', so let it beee dun! ;-))
Post by: stlaser on February 01, 2020, 08:27:49 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on February 01, 2020, 09:58:00 AM
Copy, I like coffee....... when you come out and stop by we shall have a cup or three, potentially some bourbon because everything is better with bourbon. :wink:Yessir, Bourbon is not bad
My fav, not bourbon, is Bailey's
Post by: KensAuto on February 13, 2020, 08:22:26 PM
Post by: stlaser on February 13, 2020, 08:59:49 PM
Is this thing running yet? What's taking so long?
Customers
Post by: JR on February 13, 2020, 10:48:55 PM
37s for sure
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2020, 07:18:53 PM
A local to him posted up his spare p-pump for his wrecker truck along with the front case and lines for a 12v. Mike sent me the link and we worked out a deal to secure those components and also a spare oil pan. Mike then met this gentleman today and bought the parts. The p-pump is a rebuilt high output 210 hp unit.
Appreciate your help Mike! :likebutton:
Post by: stlaser on February 23, 2020, 10:21:49 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200224/302234b6d444f633a5cdefa35baaf959.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200224/b407ff7a8ce9fe5b6c6fec8fa1f57dd2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200224/5eccefac32c7f8ead37a6476585f40cb.jpg)
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Post by: KensAuto on March 26, 2020, 09:41:32 AM
Post by: stlaser on March 26, 2020, 10:09:25 AM
Yeah, yeah
This was t supposed to be a project yet technically. I was shooting for summer anyhow. Mike did shop those above parts the other day. Then ups put one of two boxes on wrong truck and didn’t deliver so hoping the second box shows today. Other than that I’m building a trailer and being a good comrade here behind enemy lines as we’re on lockdown (which for the record changed nothing other than people are freaking and the commies are coming out in droves!)
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 26, 2020, 01:18:01 PM
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Post by: stlaser on April 07, 2020, 01:55:08 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200407/1e302c7354287803c1fa62db15969c38.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200407/4cd70dc33ba39a8c5674ccd45837115a.jpg)
Received some parts from our own America.mike and about 90% sure I’m going to use diesel conversion specialists out of Minnesota for the conversion package and trans tuning.
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Post by: swbhobie16 on April 07, 2020, 09:58:13 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 07, 2020, 10:04:42 PM
Post by: stlaser on May 27, 2020, 10:12:01 AM
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Post by: Sammconn on May 27, 2020, 10:40:45 AM
Would be nice, but will be cool to see what you do with the rear. Rest is easy with the stamped bits.
Post by: stlaser on May 27, 2020, 03:08:34 PM
Post by: stlaser on June 12, 2020, 06:09:25 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/764e393d31d71e344b0ceefb9ebd86e9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/53af83ce0c5c0b077e8f4e9124130ca2.jpg)
Did something today, scored a Bradford built flatbed for the fummins.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 12, 2020, 07:05:40 PM
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Post by: stlaser on June 12, 2020, 07:49:49 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 03, 2020, 09:27:20 AM
Started by ordering this yesterday. I have to pull cam to swap gear for pump which is pressed on, no reason not to upgrade it while doing so if I’m that deep into the beast.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200703/e93cbc58a5a5663fa2ac61e1705fd603.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200703/f99721b2d4dd42f7d2de25280b5aace2.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on July 03, 2020, 11:52:11 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200703/da763b30f1cda241fda0548db8da944f.jpg)
Well, pocket is lighter now. Ordered all the motor parts minus injectors. Going to get pump bench tested and then decide on what size. Went with this turbo and if I so desire I can add another for twins down the road.
So list below is what I have coming now
-Hamilton cam 178/208 combo kit
-ARP head studs
-Super b 600 turbo
-24v p-pump conversion lines
-Tunnel ram intake plate (it was this or spacer for lines to work)
-afc live (in cab fuel adjustment)
-turbo housing heat shield
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 03, 2020, 01:41:43 PM
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Post by: stlaser on July 03, 2020, 05:33:52 PM
Now we’re talkin’!
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Apparently our Mike From Iowa has a spare hx35 he’s going to send me. May or may not need a little love so could toss that on for twins.
Post by: stlaser on July 19, 2020, 07:04:53 PM
First I will not be using DCS for a complete swap kit. I believe there are better options for individual parts. One instance of this is Mike Fuchs who I found thru a fb fummins forum. He makes several parts including brackets to run the stock alternator and ac compressor on the 24v versus running dodge ac compressor as DCS would have you do. After speaking with him I was also able to source the flex plate and trans adapter from him $300 less than retail at DCS or Destroked.
One other reason I have passed on the DCS complete kit is trans tuning and that they don’t seem to have a great track record running a stand alone controller without losing the transmission in the process. Many guys are running the stock pcm with hp tuners successfully. This appears to be the smarter route (unsure of the cost difference atm, doesn’t really matter I guess if it works).
I have recently come across another guy who builds a converter to make the stock tachometer in the f350 work flawlessly with the cummins and he has a website Swaphelper.com
I still need motor mounts & to figure out the delete portion on the f350 (dpf and egr which I think can be done via Hp tuner?). I’m also looking for a cummins spare power steering Pump (Ken, Phil?) if someone has one they want to part with?
Post by: KensAuto on July 19, 2020, 08:18:46 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 19, 2020, 08:30:37 PM
Don't look at me. Never even seen a 24v before. ;)
First and second gens are the same
Post by: wyorunner on July 19, 2020, 08:53:41 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 19, 2020, 09:09:32 PM
Shawn, why not just buy a new or reman pump?
I can and may, but I thought I’d ask around first.
Post by: JR on July 19, 2020, 09:52:15 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 19, 2020, 09:53:23 PM
To bad he specializes in Fords, I may need some help too.
DCS does 99 and earlier gm using 12v’s
Post by: KensAuto on July 19, 2020, 11:33:43 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 22, 2020, 04:35:48 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200722/8423dcd70d03d096d964b71078d8d0e6.jpg)
So that happened last night, now into truck sub $3k not including that very expensive motor H’s BF sold me......
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Post by: stlaser on July 29, 2020, 12:59:18 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200729/01f7da925b9e8699a086c188c32b0d8f.jpg)
Was in the neighborhood so I stopped by Destroked and purchased these motor mounts. While I was there they signed me up as a vendor and I was able to pick their brain on the 5R100 transmission
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Post by: wilsonphil on July 29, 2020, 01:21:31 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 29, 2020, 01:26:17 PM
looks like a little lacking in the weld dept?
I thought so too until I looked at back side, motor plates are slotted and welded on back side fully.
Post by: JR on July 29, 2020, 01:45:26 PM
Post by: wyorunner on July 30, 2020, 03:55:39 AM
Look forward to seeing your ferd come to life.
Post by: stlaser on July 30, 2020, 07:35:30 AM
I saw these on Instagram, my instant thought was, “why didn’t he make these himself. He is certainly capable.”
Look forward to seeing your ferd come to life.
I appreciate that Turner, there is some engineering in these (cummins 5 degree tilt) and time is money. Plus it was a buy in for other info as I’m not using anyone’s particular “kit”. Sometimes you pay a little to make nice. :wink:
Post by: wyorunner on July 30, 2020, 03:07:02 PM
Ok this I understand!I saw these on Instagram, my instant thought was, “why didn’t he make these himself. He is certainly capable.”
Look forward to seeing your ferd come to life.
I appreciate that Turner, there is some engineering in these (cummins 5 degree tilt) and time is money. Plus it was a buy in for other info as I’m not using anyone’s particular “kit”. Sometimes you pay a little to make nice. :wink:
Post by: Bigdave_185 on July 30, 2020, 04:45:55 PM
Have any of you folks found a way to get the wife to understand this? Why do you take beer to the bike shop Every time you go?I saw these on Instagram, my instant thought was, “why didn’t he make these himself. He is certainly capable.”
Look forward to seeing your ferd come to life.
I appreciate that Turner, there is some engineering in these (cummins 5 degree tilt) and time is money. Plus it was a buy in for other info as I’m not using anyone’s particular “kit”. Sometimes you pay a little to make nice. :wink:
Why do you go to the dealership and take Andy cookies when ya go
Why do you always sit and talk with Jim at the lumber yard.
Building relationships isn’t free, you have to put in to get out. She simply doesn’t get it
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Post by: JR on July 30, 2020, 05:11:07 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on July 30, 2020, 05:33:47 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 30, 2020, 07:14:14 PM
So for the rest of you I’m sorry your wives weren’t raised to know this. :popcorn:
Post by: swbhobie16 on July 30, 2020, 07:14:53 PM
ohh wait.. it’s cause i used the trans it was supposed to come with :evil:
can’t wait to see it come together.
Post by: wyorunner on July 30, 2020, 07:46:30 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2020, 08:55:23 PM
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Post by: stlaser on July 30, 2020, 09:17:45 PM
My wife doesn’t want to hear about the details. She just wants me to get results.
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Ha ha, well from the looks of things she shouldn’t have any complaints...... :beercheers:
Post by: Flyin6 on August 01, 2020, 09:35:30 AM
My wife doesn’t want to hear about the details. She just wants me to get results.She, by chance, have a long lost sister???
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 01, 2020, 05:07:50 PM
No, she has a sister I wish was long lost.My wife doesn’t want to hear about the details. She just wants me to get results.She, by chance, have a long lost sister???
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Post by: Flyin6 on August 02, 2020, 10:36:29 AM
If she is anywhere in the neighborhood of your frau, intro her to some of the men here who live on the opposite end of the country and maybe they will scoop her up. Just a suggestion ;-)No, she has a sister I wish was long lost.My wife doesn’t want to hear about the details. She just wants me to get results.She, by chance, have a long lost sister???
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 02, 2020, 12:14:51 PM
Now before the epic rant gets started
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Post by: cj7ox on August 03, 2020, 03:55:07 PM
I wouldn’t wish her on my worst enemy. She’s a sponge. Living at home at 45yo and won’t lift a finger to help out around the house and her parents are frail. Blames everyone else for her failures and is constantly whining about her lot in life. I’ll quit
Now before the epic rant gets started
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We have the same sister!?! LOL! Mine finally moved out when she got a buddy of mine to marry her. I tried to warn him off. My wife tried to warn him off. It didn't take. LOL!
Post by: Flyin6 on August 03, 2020, 05:06:02 PM
I wouldn’t wish her on my worst enemy. She’s a sponge. Living at home at 45yo and won’t lift a finger to help out around the house and her parents are frail. Blames everyone else for her failures and is constantly whining about her lot in life. I’ll quitYea, I see what cha talkin about. Girl like that would ruin a good man.
Now before the epic rant gets started
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Post by: JR on August 03, 2020, 06:05:11 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on August 03, 2020, 06:19:15 PM
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Post by: JR on August 03, 2020, 07:14:41 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on August 03, 2020, 07:38:00 PM
I have another here, want her? I'll even pay shipping.New topic perhaps?
Siblings, cousins, sisters in law for sale, or "free to a good home"
Post by: JR on August 03, 2020, 07:48:10 PM
Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2020, 11:46:35 PM
Ok, so I’m moving forward on the engine. Actually Casey owner of Twin Peaks Diesel in Dacono, Co is going to be building it. He’s a neighbor of mine up the street and is well versed in 12v and 24v cummins motors among others. After getting no response from the high school teacher I decided we needed to make some forward progress. At the moment the engine is scheduled to be dropped off a week from Thursday. They are going to pull the head and I’m going to take it and get it decked and the new springs installed. While motor is at shop I’m going to get injectors ordered and repopped so it should come back sealed up and ready to be dropped in shortly after that.
Post by: stlaser on August 13, 2020, 07:25:19 PM
Stripped off unnecessary parts for the trip to the neighbors diesel shop.
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Post by: stlaser on August 21, 2020, 11:23:07 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on August 22, 2020, 11:16:13 AM
Motor was dropped off at diesel shop yesterday. Contemplating ringing the head, I’m buried with work so this keeps getting pushed back but at least it’s some forward progress with the motor now....if only inches at a time...
Post by: stlaser on August 22, 2020, 10:00:56 PM
Motor was dropped off at diesel shop yesterday. Contemplating ringing the head, I’m buried with work so this keeps getting pushed back but at least it’s some forward progress with the motor now....if only inches at a time...
Yep, still collecting parts too as I figure out the best forward path. The trans adapter And fly wheel showed up from Mike Fuchs this last week. Need to snap some pictures.
Post by: stlaser on August 23, 2020, 10:47:26 AM
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 31, 2020, 09:09:31 PM
https://www.tfltruck.com/2020/08/cummins-diesel-powered-ford-truck-breaks-the-pikes-peak-international-hillclimb-record/
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Post by: stlaser on October 07, 2020, 11:07:08 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201007/ae3ad11f31cd51596a7bcc4a82052b5e.jpg)
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Post by: JR on October 07, 2020, 01:41:22 PM
Post by: stlaser on October 07, 2020, 06:30:37 PM
Wow, how much was a new head?
I don’t know but it still would have needed quite a bit of work to be what this head will be when complete.
Post by: KensAuto on October 07, 2020, 11:11:23 PM
You going to tear the block down to make sure it's right?
Post by: stlaser on October 08, 2020, 12:15:56 AM
Hmmm. The seats were cracked? Doesn't sound right on a 130k motor, unless the guy was towing hot and heavy with it.
You going to tear the block down to make sure it's right?
Bottom end looks good, if you recall it had aftermarket exhaust manifold on it so someone had at least done that. It got hot at some point so possibly towing heavy with it. Those seats in the 01/02 heads are crap apparently. Sounds like by 04 cummins figured it out and had fixed the issue.
And you told me it was a 105k motor....... :tongue:
Post by: KensAuto on October 08, 2020, 02:53:20 PM
And you told me it was a 105k motor....... :tongue:
Liar. :P
Post by: stlaser on October 08, 2020, 03:13:04 PM
And you told me it was a 105k motor....... :tongue:
Liar. :P
:rolleyes: You know they say memory is first thing to go buddy. In your case I think eyesight was first (GF H, obviously) so memory surely must be second......
Post by: KensAuto on October 08, 2020, 10:22:41 PM
Who lost their memory?
Post by: stlaser on October 08, 2020, 10:42:10 PM
For the record, jokes aside Ken told me he thought this motor had gotten hot b4 I bought it. He also wasn’t exactly sure on mileage. Motor still had tag on it from salvage outfit he bought it from stating condition.
Post by: JR on October 09, 2020, 01:06:05 AM
Post by: stlaser on October 09, 2020, 08:12:28 AM
I had discussed plans for the truck with Destroked and this is what they recommended in conjunction with their trans controller which comes with basic tune and phone support for under $1K. After doing hours of research it would appear Destroked has the best long term results with not destroying transmissions behind the Cummins and overall longevity / correct operation and shifting points. Some others who are big names and well known do not have that reputation if you do your due diligence and research the forums etc. If I had to do over again I might have converted this to a ZF6 speed manual just for ease of the swap and overall cost savings. Plan for the trans is to pull it and have it freshened up. The 5R100 is known to be a very robust transmission so not extremely worried about having to throw the wallet at it to get it to live behind the Cummins.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201009/9cb2a8955ffe799413cb8de779f1f95d.jpg)
Post by: Flyin6 on October 09, 2020, 10:23:20 AM
;-)
Post by: Flyin6 on October 09, 2020, 10:25:11 AM
Triple disc necessary to hold the enormous torque of the diesel. I am surprised my stocker has lived this long, but then again. I almost never go past 50% throttle.
Post by: stlaser on October 09, 2020, 03:54:05 PM
Custom color^^^^^^^???
;-)
Ken, although he probably forgets said it was his favorite......
Post by: stlaser on October 09, 2020, 03:55:07 PM
I almost never go past 50% throttle.
Realistically, I probably won’t either
Post by: TexasRedNeck on October 09, 2020, 10:15:55 PM
Very smart S!Said no pilot ever
I almost never go past 50% throttle.
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on October 09, 2020, 11:03:09 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on October 10, 2020, 01:57:06 AM
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Post by: stlaser on October 10, 2020, 05:32:14 PM
For 1100.00 it must have the pink tax applied they keep talking about.
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Wouldn’t know, I’m a dealer so I didn’t pay that price :wink:
Post by: KensAuto on October 11, 2020, 12:01:22 AM
You silver tongued devil. What else do you"deal"?For 1100.00 it must have the pink tax applied they keep talking about.
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Wouldn’t know, I’m a dealer so I didn’t pay that price :wink:
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Post by: stlaser on November 11, 2020, 06:31:50 PM
Grabbed the flat bed from the yard today, may have broken a couple laws getting it to the shop but we made it w/o issue. I’m going to flip it and chassis saver the bottom side. Will add the bed mounted hoist and fix a couple things prior to painting bottom side but wanted this done before I install it.
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Post by: JR on November 11, 2020, 06:57:14 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 11, 2020, 09:03:41 PM
Like to see the ideas on the hoist. Has crossed my mind a few times loading things.
JR, so one of my neighbors needed some large racks hauled to his home when he sold his garage back in the spring. He I believe this unit below mounted to the floor in his shop to do maintenance on his commercial mowers (lift front end of mowers up for blade changes) and my payment was this hoist. So my plan is to reinforce bed below to mount it and add an electric winch. I also want to be able to remove it easily when not needed. Keep the unit out of weather etc. So for $20 in gas I can afford to modify to my liking.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200672542_200672542
Post by: Bigdave_185 on November 11, 2020, 09:14:01 PM
To bad the middle of the bed is the worse spot to put the hoist or you could just use that
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Post by: JR on November 11, 2020, 09:31:17 PM
That and a cheap winch and ready to go.
Post by: stlaser on November 11, 2020, 09:46:51 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on November 11, 2020, 09:48:19 PM
Hitch mount is a good idea, I’ll most likely just use a standard square tube receiver hitch though.There is an idea could you build on that plugs into the receiver. I think Iv seen that kinda deal before to purchase. Pending on lift capacity of the hoist might be easy to just make it taller and plug into the bumper
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Post by: stlaser on November 11, 2020, 10:07:52 PM
Hitch mount is a good idea, I’ll most likely just use a standard square tube receiver hitch though.There is an idea could you build on that plugs into the receiver. I think Iv seen that kinda deal before to purchase. Pending on lift capacity of the hoist might be easy to just make it taller and plug into the bumper
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Need to double check but I believe mine is 1000# so not huge weight capacity
Post by: TexasRedNeck on November 12, 2020, 02:14:19 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/f1d6a50698630c67b8d19c326a935296.jpg)Would have been awesome if you’d had a tow dolly on the receiver in the back of the flatbed with another vehicle on it. Would remind me of the used car caravans to Mexico down I-59
Grabbed the flat bed from the yard today, may have broken a couple laws getting it to the shop but we made it w/o issue. I’m going to flip it and chassis saver the bottom side. Will add the bed mounted hoist and fix a couple things prior to painting bottom side but wanted this done before I install it.
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Post by: stlaser on November 12, 2020, 05:49:49 PM
Ok, so my hot rod buddy and I moved / flipped and washed some of the mud off this pig today. I took preliminary measurements from my non cc truck and will have to modify a couple things plus a couple more because “ground clearance” after that I can get into painting the bottom side.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/60de927f7eec38872956f407774ad5ad.jpg)
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Post by: JR on November 12, 2020, 08:59:18 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 13, 2020, 06:03:17 PM
Bad news on block today, needs decked. Someone had it apart prior and gouged the surface more than .003 cummins spec. I’m not pleased but while it’s apart a more thorough inspection and at min new bearings.
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Post by: JR on November 14, 2020, 04:09:32 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 15, 2020, 03:11:04 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/71d03ff955c850352d1245900a7cc97c.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/80a59a47535224de1c289354cdbe1496.jpg)
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Post by: wyorunner on November 15, 2020, 05:40:19 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 15, 2020, 05:55:34 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on November 15, 2020, 06:52:23 PM
Getting bottom of bed fitted up for removable 1K# hoist mount. Laid it out and then fitted a piece of 6” channel and 1/4 x 2 angle to give it some rigidity. I’ll finish bumper then flip it back over and fix any other imperfections in the old bed before wire wheeling bottom and paintingNize!!
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Post by: wyorunner on November 15, 2020, 07:05:44 PM
Turner, yes but those guys aren’t cheap. I’ll be wire wheeling it. It’s supposed to hit 70 this week so I’ll most likely be moving this outside, flip it and fix top side (dump more dirt off it in process) then flip it back while outside and wheel all of bottom side.I do know they are not cheap, but figured it would be one of those almost acceptable expenses. Do you have a rotisserie? You make flipping it sound so easy when I know first hand it is not.
Post by: stlaser on November 15, 2020, 07:56:25 PM
Turner, yes but those guys aren’t cheap. I’ll be wire wheeling it. It’s supposed to hit 70 this week so I’ll most likely be moving this outside, flip it and fix top side (dump more dirt off it in process) then flip it back while outside and wheel all of bottom side.I do know they are not cheap, but figured it would be one of those almost acceptable expenses. Do you have a rotisserie? You make flipping it sound so easy when I know first hand it is not.
Right, well I’m probably forking out another $1k plus to freshen up bottom end of 24v and deck it, so more elbow grease from me.
No rotisserie but 20 years in steel shop moving large heavy things and access to a forklift. It isn’t bad at all, with a short log chain and taking my time it rolls over pretty easy.
Will try to remember to snap pics next time of rigging etc.
Post by: Bob Smith on November 15, 2020, 11:05:25 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 15, 2020, 11:11:04 PM
Shawn, sounds like you were a wrecker operator in a past life.
50 ish employees in steel shop, said employees could wreck bowling balls with rubber mallets. Does that make me a wrecker operator manager? :tongue:
Post by: wyorunner on November 16, 2020, 12:31:30 AM
Oh right I did read about your engine woes. Yea wire wheel it is then! And I mean, we both know that I would be forced to wire wheel simply because we don’t make enough to pay for luxuries such as blasting.Turner, yes but those guys aren’t cheap. I’ll be wire wheeling it. It’s supposed to hit 70 this week so I’ll most likely be moving this outside, flip it and fix top side (dump more dirt off it in process) then flip it back while outside and wheel all of bottom side.I do know they are not cheap, but figured it would be one of those almost acceptable expenses. Do you have a rotisserie? You make flipping it sound so easy when I know first hand it is not.
Right, well I’m probably forking out another $1k plus to freshen up bottom end of 24v and deck it, so more elbow grease from me.
No rotisserie but 20 years in steel shop moving large heavy things and access to a forklift. It isn’t bad at all, with a short log chain and taking my time it rolls over pretty easy.
Will try to remember to snap pics next time of rigging etc.
I look forward to the fork lift riggy-fliperoo pictures!
Post by: Sammconn on November 16, 2020, 04:44:49 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 16, 2020, 07:32:07 PM
Something I wasn’t aware of is that with diesel motors even though I can see the cross hatch in the cylinder walls if you install new rings you should have it honed too. In fact his response to my questioning this was that “this isn’t a Chevy 350”........ :popcorn:
Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 01:05:05 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/d0658aad20fc7ea861c3406a8263231b.jpg)
Much better
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Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 01:06:31 PM
Compared to before
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Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 02:44:10 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/8610f79b76e51fe74823f6c32fb760f5.jpg)
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Post by: JR on November 17, 2020, 04:08:07 PM
Yes, I will need a forklift! Tractors are OK, but a short wheelbase with rear wheel steering is great.
Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 04:12:08 PM
Knocked off the angle and channel welded to the bed in a prior life. Then proceeded to weld all the drilled holes shut and grind them off.
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Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 06:23:48 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/7b17fc00ff8db1d9a94870fbb82110b4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/8b835f0c8e9209a65d8388553e4e2532.jpg)
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on November 17, 2020, 06:36:36 PM
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Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 09:08:07 PM
How does she fit?
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Have not built the hoist base to accept 2” tube yet but the 2” tube fits like a glove in the bed receiver
Post by: Flyin6 on November 17, 2020, 10:14:44 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 10:50:15 PM
With all your attention to detail and precision building, this thing is going to turn out very well. More than just a work truck.
You’re correct, it’s going to be more than a work truck. I mean who needs twins and 150hp injectors? :popcorn:
I do need a work truck, something I can haul axles around with and pull a trailer. So this will do that and I’m sort of doing this in a couple phases. Phase 1 currently is the work truck and reliability. Phase two will address suspension, axles, tires and wheels. In that phase it will become mo’ capable for off road use. Currently the drivetrain has 160k on it so it’s time to freshen all of that up shortly.
With that thought I am making sure everything in this phase will compliment futures phases (rear bumper etc). The final phase will be the bed mounted home brew removable camper. The plan is to do a long Alaska trip with this truck eventually.
Post by: stlaser on November 17, 2020, 10:54:08 PM
Tomorrow I finish a little bit of welding then start wire wheeling bottom for paint
Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 12:29:34 AM
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 11:01:11 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/11f5926bf60bd34e0ff563c83b277b84.jpg)
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For the record my hitch tube is straight, I went off the two frame rails but that original license plate mount is a tad crooked in the background.
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Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 01:53:09 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/c1632dd438946dc81b2d3194079fec87.jpg)
Angle of the fedangle on the torch tip was a bit off, oops gunna have to fix that......
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/95f0cf1e66a649b74673ce3ed403a72d.jpg)
Scarfing tip on the torch for those not aware of what I’m talking about. Made to cut out welds with an oxy / acetylene torch.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/4eecf1d3ce6a9b422b0572606cdc72d6.jpg)
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Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 02:37:03 PM
Your pic reminded me I what to put mud flaps on the trailer.
You mounting metal to metal or with a wood pad?
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 03:23:17 PM
My torch is a victor journeyman FYI
Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 03:33:39 PM
I always use an oak board, my truck frame bumps up an inch or so over wheels so to flatten the frame out I need them. I normally seal the wood hood before install
My torch is a victor journeyman FYI
:likebutton:
Post by: TexasRedNeck on November 18, 2020, 05:29:21 PM
And what’s wrong with welded on brackets that get bolted to the frame?
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Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 05:36:15 PM
Forgive the dumb question but why out a piece of decomposing organic material between the bed and frame?
And what’s wrong with welded on brackets that get bolted to the frame?
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Because don’t question Henry Ford Tex! :popcorn:
My 2 cents is that if it’s sealed good it will last some time. It will flex with the frame, frames flex and are meant to. The flat bed is fairly rigid and won’t flex, I use u bolts because I use the wood. The blocks that someone put on there with chicken crap had to go anyhow.
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 05:40:57 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/4663522207ee476f7089624efb592708.jpg)
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Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 06:10:38 PM
That should seal the bed up OK.
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 06:13:09 PM
I like the wood idea, why I asked.
That should seal the bed up OK.
Seriously though, to my knowledge Henry Ford started doing it that way on all their trucks. I’ve always done it that way even with our 26k gvw flatbeds and no issues.
Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 06:48:34 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 07:13:32 PM
I agree, but I had no idea Ford started it.
My grand dads 37 (flatbed from the factory work truck) was this way, my neighbor who specializes in ford hot rods claimed all the old Ford trucks were done like this.
Post by: JR on November 18, 2020, 08:05:06 PM
Post by: KensAuto on November 18, 2020, 08:11:49 PM
I like the crane receiver idea. Never thought of doing it that way.... more than one use possibly.
Personally I won't use raptor again. Not having great luck with it. Maybe it's the Arizona UVs, or the installer. Not sure
So the heads been off of the 24v? I couldn't tell that it had been apart...if so I would have questioned it when I got it. Urrr
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 08:29:05 PM
Man, surprised you're not making your own bed considering the amount of work you're doing to this one!
I like the crane receiver idea. Never thought of doing it that way.... more than one use possibly.
Personally I won't use raptor again. Not having great luck with it. Maybe it's the Arizona UVs, or the installer. Not sure
So the heads been off of the 24v? I couldn't tell that it had been apart...if so I would have questioned it when I got it. Urrr
Right, I paid $1k for the bed. Steel would have cost more than that so what you see is what you get.
Agree on crane receiver but not sure what else I can put in there? Flag pole for my Trump flag? Heavy duty stripper pole for your gf H? But nobody wants to see that..... :shocked:
Yeah, head had recently been off that motor I think. It was definitely off at some point, is what it is though. Also for record bottom end bearings were pretty worn for a 100k ish motor (per my diesel mechanic who sees similar on 200-300k motors) although copper was not showing on them yet. Crank looked good as did pistons.
Post by: Bob Smith on November 18, 2020, 09:23:23 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 18, 2020, 09:57:42 PM
Ken, do you run a repair shop? Sounds more like used car salesman talk to me.
:popcorn: :popcorn:
Post by: KensAuto on November 18, 2020, 10:36:46 PM
Post by: wyorunner on November 19, 2020, 12:57:54 AM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on November 19, 2020, 01:04:49 AM
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Post by: JR on November 19, 2020, 02:18:57 AM
There is a H joke hidden in that 5ton and bed frame lol.
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And he is building a poll for her to show her off in parades. The hoist is just to get her up there,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Post by: stlaser on November 19, 2020, 08:27:05 AM
However, I offered my mechanic the other day some money towards parts he had purchased as things were delayed again with having to machine bottom end. His response was no thank you, then followed by “that motor is worth a hell of a lot more than you owe me”.
Which got me thinking I owe him $3K ish or so with parts and labor. So last night I took a quick tally of approximate money spent on this motor so far. All I’m gunna say is wow, that added up quick....... definitely most expensive I’ve built by 2x or 3x as much money. Hope it’s all worth it when complete.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on November 19, 2020, 08:46:24 AM
I’m like you. I still don’t know how much I have in the guest house but I have a box full for receipts.
In the end it’s only worth what someone would pay for it if I sell
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Post by: stlaser on November 19, 2020, 09:19:01 AM
Post by: stlaser on November 19, 2020, 04:19:10 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201119/d90c1b2193dcf52de89ee8f7b6c26cc1.jpg)
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on November 19, 2020, 06:02:05 PM
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Post by: stlaser on November 19, 2020, 06:25:38 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 20, 2020, 02:56:44 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/6c533346671ca29f8e0770379dbfdc6e.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on November 25, 2020, 06:11:38 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on November 25, 2020, 06:44:54 PM
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Post by: JR on November 25, 2020, 06:51:52 PM
Post by: stlaser on November 25, 2020, 07:11:58 PM
Who sold you that boat anchor??
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Well, there’s an update on that too. Seems he found the paperwork in which he was the first that really overpaid for the boat anchor. He texted that info to me last week. If it’s any consolation to him I paid less than he paid initially but I’m thinking he got out cheap! :tongue: lol
Also worth noting apparently these vp44 engine kits run quite a bit more or so I was told. In the end the foundation being, core head, block and crank are able to be made right. So it’s not what Ken and I thought it was but it isn’t our first rodeo so we’re not surprised really.
Post by: JR on November 25, 2020, 07:17:10 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on November 25, 2020, 08:16:44 PM
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Post by: stlaser on November 25, 2020, 09:10:10 PM
Yes, life is like a box of chocolates...
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Thanks Forrest...... :knucklehead:
Post by: stlaser on December 01, 2020, 09:50:13 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/171a519366a1aa43e65db9802e7af512.jpg)
Ok, so looking for honest opinions (other than Ken). I’m prepping the top side of the bed for some epoxy primer and then raptor liner. So in that process I pulled out these window guards. I’m up in the air whether to print and re install or leave out of maybe put something in a little more custom (custom is my last choice atm). What says the RM forum?
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 01, 2020, 10:47:21 AM
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Post by: Bob Smith on December 01, 2020, 11:20:39 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on December 01, 2020, 11:41:55 AM
Post by: Sammconn on December 01, 2020, 11:43:00 AM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 01, 2020, 12:23:16 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on December 01, 2020, 01:09:25 PM
;P(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/cf16a4da7261efffb9727b8ed0de840b.jpg)
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 01, 2020, 01:56:54 PM
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Post by: JR on December 01, 2020, 03:37:36 PM
I think the GLO logo vs a green cross any day!
Post by: stlaser on December 01, 2020, 04:47:52 PM
Post by: stlaser on December 01, 2020, 04:54:32 PM
May have to add a bumper sticker.
You know the ones that ask how is my driving?
Call 1-800-BAK-OFFB
Post by: KensAuto on December 01, 2020, 07:29:56 PM
Post by: stlaser on December 01, 2020, 07:48:41 PM
What happened to the Ford script you got? Gotta work it in to your plans.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/04985228357b34d49240adddcc3d4980.jpg)
Was planning on hanging it up on this wall, kind of too cool to cut up for that bed imo
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Post by: stlaser on December 02, 2020, 12:02:25 PM
Only 7 weeks to get this in
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Post by: Flyin6 on December 02, 2020, 12:49:45 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 02, 2020, 12:56:59 PM
Shawn what’s this going on? The Fummins or something else
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Post by: stlaser on December 02, 2020, 09:10:35 PM
I actually think I’m due for a rebuild of mine or just replace It. One of these days lol
Shawn what’s this going on? The Fummins or something else
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Fummins, this is the fummins thread still I believe? :wink:
I had purchased a bean sump kit earlier as well, the plan will be to use the aftermarket 50 Gallon tank. More info to come shortly on all of that.
Post by: stlaser on December 08, 2020, 05:36:57 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201208/5c30748e01b983dc41bb568a988bf709.jpg)
2 part epoxy primer
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Post by: stlaser on December 08, 2020, 06:51:48 PM
I’ve also decided for the time being no window guards. That may change at a later date but I like being able to see out my rear window.
Large turbo is still on back order, spoke with them yesterday and they added another month. Guessing it or parts are on a boat.
Post by: JR on December 08, 2020, 09:33:41 PM
Post by: wyorunner on December 08, 2020, 11:39:53 PM
Post by: stlaser on December 09, 2020, 12:01:20 AM
Shawn, who did you buy your turbo from? Our entire fuel system and turbo came from dieseltuff.com. Really great guy to work with.
Power driven, they’ve discounted it pretty heavily at this point so holding out hope it eventually shows. With set backs on motor it’s not like I need it today so I’m waiting.
Post by: wyorunner on December 09, 2020, 12:10:55 AM
Oh that’s Right, you’re still sometime out from being given a two week to delivery notice. So your turbo has plenty of time!Shawn, who did you buy your turbo from? Our entire fuel system and turbo came from dieseltuff.com. Really great guy to work with.
Power driven, they’ve discounted it pretty heavily at this point so holding out hope it eventually shows. With set backs on motor it’s not like I need it today so I’m waiting.
Post by: stlaser on December 10, 2020, 07:59:46 PM
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Post by: stlaser on December 24, 2020, 02:40:37 PM
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Post by: JR on December 24, 2020, 03:36:49 PM
Post by: KensAuto on December 24, 2020, 06:39:51 PM
Post by: stlaser on December 26, 2020, 12:20:43 PM
I fubarred a bit with this bed. Nothing that can’t be overcome just gotta decide how I want to do that. So this flat bed was on a c&c truck and I have a standard chassis. The problem being in c&c trucks they use a rear tank where a standard truck uses drivers side in front of rear axle tank.
Since I’m putting a 1 3/4” block on top of frame rail I think I’ll just run the hose over top of truck frame but will need to mod that wooden block to accept hose and vent tube. Then cut a hole in side of bed for fill up front.
Need to see what is out there for a trim piece for bedside. Back of drivers side flatbed has hole for rear tank but no trim piece came with bed. Plan was to eventually add a 50 gal tank in rear too and utilize that hole.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201226/49320512eeb04c75c9c3c45b9dade951.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201226/754f4cb78c2a2ad2ac13356d30161c56.jpg)
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Post by: JR on December 26, 2020, 02:10:10 PM
Please dump the exhaust out the side IFO the tire, going to be bigger anyway right??
Post by: stlaser on December 26, 2020, 03:00:13 PM
Haven’t considered exhaust as of yet, low hanging fruit will get cleaned up at some point.
Edit: Seth and I were discussing those robust Sterling axles a few weeks ago. Neither of us has grenaded one or knows anyone who has. Think I’ll keep it and build it.......
Post by: stlaser on December 27, 2020, 09:32:39 AM
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Post by: stlaser on December 28, 2020, 11:26:53 PM
So then this beds wheel well cutouts are 1.5” back from centerline of axle. My plan is to replace all the suspension with new components. Ford uses an oem cast 4” lift block on the rear axle. I want to do away with that and go to a true lift spring so the plan is potentially custom Alcan’s or Deavers and I’ll have them move center pin in the process. Unless I can find a good aftermarket spring and then I’ll adjust axle centering with offset spring perches and top plates. This type of mod is pretty standard when lifting trucks to gain fender clearance.
I will be buying a set of wheels that are wider and less backspacing to push them out and give the truck a better stance overall when I go to 37’s
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/fcf57b8f93eacd6b056d08c2e5c0a0d4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/66775ff310ea0bbf7dff477228da1d41.jpg)
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Post by: JR on December 29, 2020, 12:01:58 AM
My deavers have no overload and the OEM overloads sit on the springpack now. I plan on using airbags for towing hopefully keeping the flexi new springs longer.
Post by: stlaser on December 29, 2020, 12:07:02 AM
Post by: stlaser on December 29, 2020, 10:06:52 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/89b49cd0cfb0065c64549452887b409b.jpg)
You can see directly above the two red arrows where hitch contacts frame.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 29, 2020, 06:07:04 PM
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Post by: stlaser on December 29, 2020, 08:03:44 PM
Little out of your element, working with wood...
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Spent 3 years part time in my cousins custom cabinet shop. I found that if you screw up the piece of wood go buy another, you screw up metal fix it and move on.
So stopped by local lumber yard, thickest red oak in stock was 1.75” so that’s a no go. I went back and pulled bed again. In the morning I’m going to heat up 4 spots the fifth wheel hitch contacts upper c frame on truck and massage them to gain clearance. I’ll paint those 4 spots and drop bed back down. I order 4 more u bolts too, in the past the wood runners were long lengths on a flat frame, being these are short chunks I’m going to have two at front of bed and two at rear on each frame rail.
Post by: rpar86 on December 29, 2020, 10:43:14 PM
I know that’s how they ‘used’ to do it, but things have come a long way in 100 years.
Post by: stlaser on December 29, 2020, 10:57:02 PM
At this point why not just use metal? Won’t the wood compress over time and you’ll be right back in gap town?
I know that’s how they ‘used’ to do it, but things have come a long way in 100 years.
Not to be derogatory or condescending but I’m not oil field. The trucks I typically see do this are oil field trucks, time is money and quality isn’t always of highest concern when it comes to their trucks.
With that stated, look at heavier trucks they still do this wood method today. All our steel trucks were set up in this fashion, in fact I routinely loaded 35k in steel scrap on a 28k gvw truck and sent it to recyclers. Never had an issue with the wood or that flatbed. Occasionally a clutch or brakes but no issues with the bed.
My other thought is it will allow the frame to still flex a little and the truck frames are meant to flex. This is my largest consideration. I can also easily unbolt it and lift the bed off if say I need to work on something. I’ll use weather packs for the wiring so it easily unplugs.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 30, 2020, 09:06:51 AM
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Post by: KensAuto on December 30, 2020, 09:18:56 AM
Post by: Sammconn on December 30, 2020, 11:06:12 AM
I would glue on another 1/2" of oak and call it a day.I’m with Ken on this one.
Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 12:06:28 PM
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Progress finally on motor assembly, checking piston protrusion and valve clearance. May need a thicker head gasket, conferencing between Hamilton cams and our machinist.
Just got off phone with power driven diesel and they have tracking number on parts due into them so they can build and ship my large turbo, wonderful!
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Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 01:04:05 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201230/9a1afb928c80c9a5a1e0e010fbcf1a8e.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 01:05:42 PM
Shawn, just thought of something, as always a bit too late. Have you considered using some of the synthetic wood like they use on decking?
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Agreed, too late but I like it. May try that in the future....
Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 01:07:45 PM
I would glue on another 1/2" of oak and call it a day.
Didn’t you read how I stated if you mess up a piece of wood you must discard and start over? Give your wife back her hot glue gun already Ken!
Granted that would be a relevant option had anyone else suggested it. :wink:
Post by: JR on December 30, 2020, 01:21:16 PM
Motor looks dang nice if I must say!
Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 02:00:51 PM
That is some pretty heavy messaging on the frame there. I think just laminating a piece of wood would be a great idea.
Motor looks dang nice if I must say!
Thank you
Post by: KensAuto on December 30, 2020, 04:56:04 PM
Is that how you fix everything? With a BFH?
Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 06:06:57 PM
Well, I guess we know where the frames going to crack now.
Is that how you fix everything? With a BFH?
It air cooled, that frame isn’t going anywhere it’s 1/4” thick. If it was a Dodge I would have just bent it with a crescent wrench.
BFH’ are saved for things like 24v Cummins that Arizona used car salesmen pawn off on me.....
:popcorn:
Post by: stlaser on December 30, 2020, 06:38:24 PM
Post by: stlaser on December 31, 2020, 12:58:49 PM
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Post by: rpar86 on December 31, 2020, 05:10:03 PM
What’s the vector Victor?
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 31, 2020, 05:27:53 PM
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Post by: Sammconn on December 31, 2020, 07:18:59 PM
Clarence...
Post by: stlaser on December 31, 2020, 10:29:50 PM
A thou, a mile....it’s all clearance.
Clarence...
That’s right :likebutton: don’t have to pull bed again so I’m happy
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 31, 2020, 10:56:50 PM
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Post by: JR on December 31, 2020, 11:46:00 PM
(must be a ford thing)
Post by: Nate on January 01, 2021, 02:49:54 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 08, 2021, 10:08:23 AM
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Borg Warner large turbo for my setup S474.5 74/84
I’m drawing down ac system this morning and hoping to pull cab tomorrow with a good friends help.
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 08, 2021, 10:33:55 AM
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Post by: stlaser on January 08, 2021, 11:18:47 AM
That looks like it’ll move some air ! I vote for double !
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:likebutton: It’s getting twins, this is the larger turbo. I already have the smaller S64.5 unit
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 08, 2021, 11:32:14 AM
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Post by: Flyin6 on January 08, 2021, 12:13:14 PM
Post by: JR on January 08, 2021, 01:12:25 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 09, 2021, 02:18:11 PM
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 09, 2021, 02:26:06 PM
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Post by: stlaser on January 09, 2021, 02:31:17 PM
Powerstroke in its natural state lol
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Say hello to Mr Powerstroke, say good bye to Mr Powerstroke.....
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 09, 2021, 02:39:17 PM
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Post by: JR on January 09, 2021, 03:41:05 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 09, 2021, 04:00:15 PM
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Post by: Bob Smith on January 09, 2021, 04:35:55 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 09, 2021, 04:49:29 PM
Emailed Alcan for custom rear springs, will lose oem lift block a d push axle back a couple inches.
Post by: Flyin6 on January 09, 2021, 07:03:26 PM
Powerstroke in its natural state lolI have seen that in just about every diesel shop I have ever visited
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 09, 2021, 08:10:26 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on January 10, 2021, 12:35:20 PM
Man. I need a lift bad.Only if you plan on buying a Ford.
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Shawn...did you have to heat the cab bolts to get them loose, or did it look like it had been off before?
Last one I did spun several caged nuts...the ones under the carpet. Urr
Post by: stlaser on January 10, 2021, 12:51:55 PM
Man. I need a lift bad.Only if you plan on buying a Ford.
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Shawn...did you have to heat the cab bolts to get them loose, or did it look like it had been off before?
Last one I did spun several caged nuts...the ones under the carpet. Urr
It had been off before, worst part of pulling cab was trying to figure out how the back seat, seat back came off. I heated 4 of 6 nuts. Two up front and two in rear under back seat. Ones in middle came out pretty easy. Do not use an impact on these if anyone else tries to pull a cab, you’ll shear off tab holding nuts. Must use heat and breaker bar or long handled ratchet to get them started.
Post by: KensAuto on January 10, 2021, 06:15:20 PM
Freaking stupid design. I mean they designed the cab to be removed. Why the heck not have welded nuts, or at least not put locktite on them?
I've only lifted 2 cabs so far, luckily.
Post by: stlaser on January 10, 2021, 06:53:05 PM
Good advice. I was using a long ratchet on the back ones without heat (seemed logical) and the ears slipped.
Freaking stupid design. I mean they designed the cab to be removed. Why the heck not have welded nuts, or at least not put locktite on them?
I've only lifted 2 cabs so far, luckily.
Agreed, dumb design. Great chassis, crap motor and cab body bolts / bushings
Here again, let’s take into consideration for what I’m doing I’m grateful for the chassis. I mean I paid $3500 for a running truck. Motor is being sold for $1500, sold original bed for $500, the exhaust is still worth some money too. So having a blank canvas to build back the way I want for sub $1500 is a steal for me. It allows me to put the money exactly where I want it and end up with the truck I need. I sell these front axles as useable cores for $7-800, some one else’s misery was my lottery ticket.
Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 07:13:16 AM
I’ve pulled the ac compressor, alternator, starter, fan, shroud and power steering pump which will all be used on the Cummins. I’ve also pulled wiring harness off 6.4l to hack and wack for use on the Cummins. Much of it gets cut out and some things shortened up. Need to grab a couple sensors today off the motor yet and I’ve been tagging and bagging bolts for above components along with wire tagging the wire harness connections.
Cummins is also complete just haven’t picked it up yet due to weather, too pretty to drag back to shop in this slop.
Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 07:15:09 AM
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Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 09:16:11 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210127/1fdc2d0edc8cba222125116a9c0ff836.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 10:34:51 AM
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Post by: rpar86 on January 27, 2021, 01:07:08 PM
Guessing that’s the egr cooler next to the driver side manifold?
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 27, 2021, 01:13:05 PM
You won’t be happy with the Cummins so you can just drop ship it here
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Post by: JR on January 27, 2021, 01:22:56 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 01:58:13 PM
No wonder those fords have problems... what is with that crazy exhaust/up pipe routing!?
Guessing that’s the egr cooler next to the driver side manifold?
Variable vane turbos and can’t recall what that cooler is for, I browsed over it in the 6.4 motor manual but if it isn’t used on the Cummins I kept on skimming past
Post by: stlaser on January 27, 2021, 04:45:20 PM
Missing rear motor pulling mount so I fabbed up one from scrap
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Post by: KensAuto on January 27, 2021, 08:29:42 PM
No wonder those fords have problems... what is with that crazy exhaust/up pipe routing!?Yeah. One of them.
Guessing that’s the egr cooler next to the driver side manifold?
Why would anyone want to get rid of such a wonderfully engineered, well thought-out, easily accessible work of art, to install something like a 6 cylinder tractor engine held in with about 8 bolts?
Post by: JR on January 28, 2021, 12:31:17 AM
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2021, 07:53:12 AM
Post by: JR on January 28, 2021, 12:14:17 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 28, 2021, 06:10:58 PM
I have "looked" at a few tranny's to for mine. I guess the gertrac and the 4500 have their issues. I like the better shifting of the ZF, but not sure about the torque and the 4x4 adapting.
A lot of Fummins s guys running zf’s in front of built Cummins
Stopped at destroked this morning and spoke with owner Scott to pickup the power steering mount. Scott said this last version of controller they use gives trans full functionality and reliability. Works just like stock motor.
Post by: stlaser on January 29, 2021, 05:23:25 PM
Post by: Sammconn on January 29, 2021, 05:32:27 PM
Man is there ever a lot of junk on these new motors.
Can hardly see block and heads for all the crap we don’t want.
Post by: stlaser on February 03, 2021, 04:36:27 PM
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Post by: cruizng on February 03, 2021, 05:13:12 PM
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on February 03, 2021, 06:08:20 PM
Just teasing. Looks nice. Can’t wait to see two turbos on it
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Post by: JR on February 03, 2021, 06:55:29 PM
Post by: stlaser on February 03, 2021, 07:44:09 PM
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Post by: Farmer Jon on February 04, 2021, 07:35:14 AM
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Post by: stlaser on February 04, 2021, 09:00:12 AM
Machined lifter plate? Is it supposed to help some with the noise or leaks?
Thanks guys, yeah should help with leaks JR. I also option for the one with vents to help keep leaks to a minimum. Bought it off of eBay, can’t recall price but it’s a nice piece.
Post by: JR on February 04, 2021, 01:26:09 PM
Post by: stlaser on February 04, 2021, 11:39:34 PM
So my idea is swapping the front 60 out for a “fat 60” that I own. Fat 60’s came typically in the F450/550 and were dually setups that are 3.5” roughly wider after you take off the dually hub extensions. They were 10 lug unit bearings but from my research it appears you can swap out the unit bearings for the F250/350 8 lug versions this will then match my rear axle still. The added benefit is a wider more stabile stance and the 35 spline shafts have larger 1550 u-joints and bigger knuckles. Only down side I see other than regearing front which I already planned to do so that I can add a zip locker is I’d have to run rear wheel spacers.
What say ye knuckleheads?
Post by: Bigdave_185 on February 05, 2021, 12:57:57 AM
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Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 08:52:50 AM
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Side by side comparison, pulling adapters this morning and going to pull a unit bearing to confirm the 8 lug will interchange.
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Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 08:57:16 AM
F550 measures 1.270
F350 measures 1.120
Post by: Bigdave_185 on February 05, 2021, 09:03:09 AM
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Post by: KensAuto on February 05, 2021, 09:09:13 AM
Dave mentioned weight. I'll mention more work for no benefit for what you're building the truck for?
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 09:11:17 AM
So the rear is 70” wms and the front is 77.25 on the F550. The dually spacers I have are 4.75” each so no good. Thinking I’ll order a set of spacers from my place in Las Vegas on the 2” - 2.5” thickness for rear which will bring axle back within normal setup. Of a difference front yo rear of a couple inches roughly.
Was looking at wheels and tires last night, thinking I’m going to run the couragia’s in 37” same tire as on Baylee’s jku, I like having the same setup on more than one vehicle and tires are more than reasonable and wear very well.
Rotors appear to be same size but calipers are larger design. Upgraded rotors when I build the axle too I think.
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 09:14:26 AM
Waste of time on a pavement truck?
Dave mentioned weight. I'll mention more work for no benefit for what you're building the truck for?
Listen negative Nancy I’ve just listed several beni’s and I’m building an axle regardless. Plus the truck is not stock, the idea is partially to show what can be done. The truck is multi purpose, yes it can pull a trailer and pickup / deliver axles but the third phase is for overlanding with a slide in camper I want to build for flatbed.
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 09:17:13 AM
I have as well a 99-04 f450/f550 80 that measures 74.5” wms but hubs are 8 on like 200 or 225. I believe I can rob hubs from the F350 Dana 80 to get 8 on 170 or worst case weld and machine hubs to the 8 on 170 (also have to turn down the hub diameter a bit to fit 8 on 170 wheels then. Leaf spring mounts are correct on either axle.
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 10:56:40 AM
Thinking dura grip carrier though.
Per Tate below
Unfortunately they do not share the same bearings.
33281 X2
33462 X2
39250 X2
39412 X2
710454 HUB SEAL
99+ F450/F550
SET38 X2
387AS X2
382A X2
9864S X2
99-04 F350 D80
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 12:36:13 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210205/52d3e3c00af61dd06d6114629136a108.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210205/664753157dfb5b7523d6365c9d0078da.jpg)
Confirmed, 8 lug unit bearings will work
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Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 12:37:28 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on February 05, 2021, 02:33:17 PM
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Post by: EL TATE on February 05, 2021, 04:04:42 PM
The dirt on that axle makes my head hurt to think about opening it
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just a spline/bolt spacing test fit on the brg/hub i'm sure. he's yet to solvent and blast that thing Dave. Kinda had to stop and stare at the picture though like it was going to spill some dirt in the grease, lol.
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 04:40:46 PM
The dirt on that axle makes my head hurt to think about opening it
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just a spline/bolt spacing test fit on the brg/hub i'm sure. he's yet to solvent and blast that thing Dave. Kinda had to stop and stare at the picture though like it was going to spill some dirt in the grease, lol.
This thing is going to need the “works”, couldn’t get one lockout removed. Pulled unit bearing with shaft then slowly broke lockout apart and fished it out piece by piece. The 1550 ujoints have seen better days too. Going to pull carrier and pinion then hose it out before going to sand blaster. Pics in a minute....
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 04:44:34 PM
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Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 06:30:38 PM
Two reasons for moving the axle back. First 2.5” will center it in wheel well on flatbed. Second I hsve to move transmission and t-case crossmember back 2.5” into the rear set of holes to allow Cummins to run a mechanical fan. This will allow me to use stock length rear driveshaft and I will only have to lengthen front driveshaft a bit.
Post by: stlaser on February 05, 2021, 06:31:32 PM
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Post by: stlaser on February 06, 2021, 08:38:51 AM
He had mentioned the warn units, I won’t be giving warn anymore of my money. The older style units have failed me countless times in the worst places.
So I recalled RCV Performance whom I’ve used for shafts were now making new 300m hub gears for the oem Ford units. I’m contacting them for a set and am going to try these out. Less money than a set of warns too.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-dana-60-300m-hub-gears-for-ford-super-duty-manual-locking-hubs.html
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/996218f0a7d78cde8f54710c8054b67b.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on February 06, 2021, 03:30:54 PM
As far as the locker I have two options on the shelf. A used Detroit I picked up and then a new zip locker. I’m fond of my Detroit’s and the lack of having to deal with faulty seals potentially or an air compressor.
Need to check inventory on an install kit and set of reverse cut 3.73 gears.
On another note I’m considering ditching the Np273 transfer case in exchange for an np205. I sent a message out to northwest fab to see if they can accommodate the 34 spline input needed to Nate to the np205. Then hit up Seth and picked his brain and he mentioned ORD could accommodate that with the magnum box in front of the NP205. I don’t think I actually need the extra gearing but if it’s the only option then maybe.....
Post by: JR on February 07, 2021, 01:12:41 PM
Post by: stlaser on February 07, 2021, 03:26:01 PM
Talk about monster undercarriage. I take it this is a write off for the shop?
Nope, just my build for my truck
Post by: stlaser on February 07, 2021, 06:07:24 PM
The other workable option for the rear is a Dana 80 swap when I go thru that axle. I have one from a F350 99-04 in the shop and measures 72” wms roughly.
I have as well a 99-04 f450/f550 80 that measures 74.5” wms but hubs are 8 on like 200 or 225. I believe I can rob hubs from the F350 Dana 80 to get 8 on 170 or worst case weld and machine hubs to the 8 on 170 (also have to turn down the hub diameter a bit to fit 8 on 170 wheels then. Leaf spring mounts are correct on either axle.
So I was incorrect on that 99-04 F450/F550 Dana 80 dually rear axle I had. It is in fact an 06 F350 Dana 80 dually rear axle, from quick research it appears the 8 on 170 dually hubs from the 99-04 F350 Dana 80 will be a direct swap onto it. I have an email out to Tate to verify and get the remaining parts on order for it. The downside is it has 35 spline shafts versus 37, if they give me issues I can always easily upgrade to 300m double splined in the future.
Post by: stlaser on February 10, 2021, 04:13:11 PM
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Ordered last of axle build components from Tate this morning while sitting in traffic on way to pick up this slightly used Detroit and a 90’s ford hp kingpin srw axle. Package deal and I’m ending up with this for less than free to go in the fat 60
Score! Love me some detroits
On way down I dropped off both axle housings plus the steering knuckles to be blasted.
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Post by: stlaser on February 11, 2021, 08:58:48 PM
The next pics are of the used Detroit and oem Dana 3.73 take out gears I plan on using in the new “fat 60” front axle.
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Post by: stlaser on February 23, 2021, 05:37:21 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/a5797dd326e2c9745efc54944774236e.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on February 26, 2021, 05:49:10 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210226/14d0877f9a59b51747117481d9b77d3c.jpg)
Too cold to spray and open doors so I started brushing on some chassis saver to the motor mounts, knuckles and front blasted fat 60 housing
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Post by: stlaser on March 07, 2021, 03:51:52 PM
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Post by: JR on March 07, 2021, 03:56:24 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 07, 2021, 05:04:42 PM
Heck, why not ad a plate to both sides and make it so you can remove the crossmember and pull the pan?
Actually that’s a pretty good idea :likebutton:
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 07, 2021, 06:07:31 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on March 07, 2021, 06:25:58 PM
Agree. Sucks trying to pull a pan on one of those without pulling the engine.Heck, why not ad a plate to both sides and make it so you can remove the crossmember and pull the pan?
Actually that’s a pretty good idea :likebutton:
That fuel line set-up looks pretty clean.
Post by: stlaser on March 07, 2021, 06:29:22 PM
Post by: JR on March 07, 2021, 06:42:44 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 07, 2021, 06:59:00 PM
That is a monster, love to see it run!
Me too, trying to get it going little by little. Super busy, bigger shop in works etc etc etc...... :facepalm:
Post by: JR on March 07, 2021, 07:55:25 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 08, 2021, 04:03:44 PM
And Shawn's going to wheel/Rock this thing at the real man meet up!
Can't wait
Does that mean you're loaning the JK to Dave(s)?
I'm so bad!!!
Post by: stlaser on March 08, 2021, 08:18:44 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 09, 2021, 07:00:10 PM
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Post by: JR on March 09, 2021, 07:18:45 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 09, 2021, 07:33:16 PM
Nice job, looks cleaner too.
Thanks, good idea and worth the six hours or so to get it right.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 09, 2021, 08:04:23 PM
Post by: JR on March 09, 2021, 08:11:49 PM
Post by: Sammconn on March 09, 2021, 09:27:33 PM
Am I the only one that noticed the redneck engine hoist.
I AM a fan just shocked nobody said anything about TWO clamps and some square tube holding that behemoth up.
Post by: stlaser on March 09, 2021, 09:48:45 PM
Nice touch.
Am I the only one that noticed the redneck engine hoist.
I AM a fan just shocked nobody said anything about TWO clamps and some square tube holding that behemoth up.
Needed a little more reach...... :tongue:
2x3 x 3/16 wall and HD adjustable clamps (largest I had in shop). That Cummins hung from it for over 6 hours today. About once an hour I had to start forklift and tilt the mast back up, other than that it worked well. :wink:
Post by: JR on March 09, 2021, 09:49:52 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 10, 2021, 11:44:03 AM
Motor is currently sitting level cocked in the motor mounts. Once trans is installed it will sit with 4-5 degree rake picking the front of motor up and have even more clearance underneath.
Post by: Sammconn on March 10, 2021, 12:15:55 PM
Like I said. I did like the lift...just curious as to how No one had mentioned.
I’m well known for sketchy well red-neck engineered solutions...
Post by: stlaser on March 10, 2021, 06:35:49 PM
Looks good.
Like I said. I did like the lift...just curious as to how No one had mentioned.
I’m well known for sketchy well red-neck engineered solutions...
:likebutton:
Post by: stlaser on March 11, 2021, 03:07:11 PM
Little more coming together
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Post by: JR on March 11, 2021, 03:24:18 PM
Where is the adapter from?
Post by: stlaser on March 11, 2021, 03:49:42 PM
Doesn't even look that tight, nice work!
Where is the adapter from?
Guy by the name of Mike Fuchs, found him on a fummins fb page. He does this and the trans adapter plates. This mount reuses the ford alternator and ac compressor. Only down side is you need a Cummins belt tensioner, it would have been nice just to use one of the two ford tensioners I had left over from 6.4 but he doesn’t offer that option yet.
Post by: JR on March 11, 2021, 03:55:32 PM
Really on the back burner now with the ridge going and the sub runs OK.
Post by: stlaser on March 11, 2021, 09:01:35 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 12, 2021, 09:37:26 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210313/f95a4ee73a97606fe4713d8dc7891d08.jpg)
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Post by: JR on March 13, 2021, 12:20:05 AM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 13, 2021, 08:05:18 AM
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Post by: stlaser on March 13, 2021, 08:52:04 AM
Very nice, but it might need a brace. Fillet those welds!
Already have one coming from top down to front of block just didn’t get pics JR.
Charles, I tried eyeballing it. Then using my thumb like painters do, I even tried that hokee ky windage baloney.
Alas none of it seemed to work though unfortunately. So I eventually used a piece of 1” x 1/4” aluminum bar laid across the alternator pulley to this pulley. Squared it from front face of block and then ran a long straight wedge across front of those two pulleys. After tacking, cutting and adjusting a couple times it’s right.
Post by: JR on March 13, 2021, 11:25:50 AM
Post by: stlaser on March 13, 2021, 08:13:33 PM
Ordered the intermediate 300m shaft and the billet planetary for the transmission.
Post by: KensAuto on March 14, 2021, 01:37:03 AM
I would assume the timing cover is set up for that configuration, or not?
Post by: stlaser on March 14, 2021, 09:06:43 AM
Can you run the older style..the one that has a vacuum pump down there?
I would assume the timing cover is set up for that configuration, or not?
Good question or thought and yeah I could but $600 for the pump w/o the vacuum.......
All else fails it’s an option. My goal was to reuse the ford factory components which are more than free at this point.
Post by: stlaser on March 18, 2021, 12:15:33 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210318/4d9b3bb464b01ffd671e6519b3be6aa6.jpg)
So after some research I stumbled on an F650 hydraulic pump that came on those trucks stock with the Cummins. I ordered one for $340 delivered which was almost half price of the other Cummins pumps I was looking at. It uses the o ring style hydraulic fittings so I’ll need to adapt but shouldn’t be an issue. It runs a remote reservoir which the f350 already uses so I should be good there.
Ran into another issue, if you recall Mike Fuchs who built the passenger side ac and alternator mount with an integrated mount for the tensioner has an apparent design flaw in his part. I had contacted him earlier when I noticed the belt would be running extremely close to that tensioner.
At the time he assured me it wouldn’t hit. Unfortunately, I was correct and it is rubbing slightly. I installed the fan pulley (correct one this time) and then bought an 83” long 6 rib belt, once installed and verifying the issue I sent Mike Fuchs pics. As always he immediately responded and together we decided that if he machines me another tensioner mount with the position moved a 1/4” down it will clear everything.
The assumption is that my tensioner casting is slightly larger than the one he used on mock-up. Regardless, great service on his part. I even offered to pay for the new one and he just said he’d take care of it.
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Post by: JR on March 18, 2021, 12:36:23 AM
Isn't there a PS pump that is gear driven you can get for the cummins? I just saw one on FB. Mine has it with I think a vacuum pump.
Post by: stlaser on March 18, 2021, 12:57:37 AM
Yep, that will rub some. What about out vs down? Looks like it will get awful close to the AC going down.
Isn't there a PS pump that is gear driven you can get for the cummins? I just saw one on FB. Mine has it with I think a vacuum pump.
I have a good 1/2” of clearance below it so 1/4” down should be fine. Going out gets it closer to the water inlet behind it as it angles towards front of motor.
The pump I bought is in fact gear driven and the capacity of it is really good. In fact was discussing with America.Mike and he may purchase one to use to power hydro assist on his K5
Post by: JR on March 18, 2021, 02:04:57 AM
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/742781479941666/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search
Post by: stlaser on March 18, 2021, 02:22:06 PM
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Post by: rpar86 on March 18, 2021, 08:39:26 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 18, 2021, 08:44:50 PM
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2008-01-0569/
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Post by: stlaser on March 18, 2021, 09:18:29 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210319/fcb677c09ddced82b9011584f270174e.jpg)
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Post by: rpar86 on March 18, 2021, 10:31:52 PM
Cuts down on noiseI had a feeling that’s what it was for. Was too lazy to Google.
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2008-01-0569/
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Post by: KensAuto on March 19, 2021, 12:52:06 AM
Post by: stlaser on March 19, 2021, 06:17:01 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2021, 07:46:59 PM
Was close on my 1st gen
Post by: stlaser on March 19, 2021, 10:49:11 PM
Your hood close on that rams horn?
Was close on my 1st gen
Currently yes, but the cab and dog house are 6’ above it at the moment
Post by: stlaser on March 19, 2021, 10:50:50 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/99c8c5dbdd51904b30e2d71637b86d13.jpg)
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Post by: Flyin6 on March 20, 2021, 11:44:16 PM
Funny guy!Your hood close on that rams horn?
Was close on my 1st gen
Currently yes, but the cab and dog house are 6’ above it at the moment
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 04:15:36 PM
I had to add .015 to push ring gear towards the pinion. After contacting Tate he confirmed the oem gears were likely smoked. New set inbound from our very own Tate @ Randy’s Ring and Pinion. Money pit keeps getting deeper.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210322/fb8f5840f6674f512027a7d3bf3c5d3f.jpg)
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Post by: JR on March 22, 2021, 05:10:22 PM
Do you use setup gears, I never did but will make up a set/s.
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 06:41:32 PM
Coast/reverse looks good anyway.
Do you use setup gears, I never did but will make up a set/s.
I use setup bearings on the carrier yes.
Post by: JR on March 22, 2021, 06:51:27 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 07:16:08 PM
Oops, yep setup bearings :rolleyes:
Tate sells them too but they’re not very cost effective if I recall. Mine are napa skf units, I’ve done enough setups to know that my skf bearings add .003 to backlash once I press on koyo or timken bearings. So I always set the back lash a tad tight with the skf units as it opens up with standard new bearings.
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 07:39:01 PM
Post by: JR on March 22, 2021, 08:37:59 PM
Why alcon's over deavers? I actually got rears for the sub from SD and tuff countrys for the front which I added an military wrap and took off the small spring.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 22, 2021, 08:59:13 PM
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Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 09:21:31 PM
Doesn't get much cheaper than that. Shipping has gone nuts hasn't it?
Why alcon's over deavers? I actually got rears for the sub from SD and tuff countrys for the front which I added an military wrap and took off the small spring.
They’re in Colorado and not Cali......
Post by: Flyin6 on March 22, 2021, 09:21:50 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 09:23:05 PM
Since Shawn is posting I take it he was not the source of the swat active shooter incident in CO today....
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Too close for comfort Charles, wife can see that grocery store from her hospital.....
Good friend/customer of mine (retired captain’s) buddy had a bullet wiz past him he was there at beginning.
Post by: stlaser on March 22, 2021, 09:24:19 PM
You guys are getting way too good at this black magic gear stuff
It’s all Tate......
I had my assumptions but he really is very knowledgeable and I know I’ve said that before but when I question things he is definitely a huge resource.
Post by: stlaser on March 27, 2021, 04:40:42 PM
I then proceeded to weld up the GLO diff cover and will install it with some chassis saver paint and a lube locker gasket prior to hanging under the front end with new springs and shocks from Bilstein in addition to the leveling kit. Once it’s hanging in place I’ll add the outer components to finish it off.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 27, 2021, 05:22:08 PM
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Post by: stlaser on March 27, 2021, 05:49:32 PM
“Slapped”. Lol
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Yeah, should be attached to a yo mamma joke I suppose.....
Post by: KensAuto on March 27, 2021, 10:50:51 PM
Pretty sure he was referring to you making it sound easy, but never know with you 2.“Slapped”. Lol
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Yeah, should be attached to a yo mamma joke I suppose.....
Setup bearings? Sacrificial? Or do you grind the center out for a slip fit to be able to reuse?
Post by: stlaser on March 27, 2021, 11:25:14 PM
Pretty sure he was referring to you making it sound easy, but never know with you 2.“Slapped”. Lol
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Yeah, should be attached to a yo mamma joke I suppose.....
Setup bearings? Sacrificial? Or do you grind the center out for a slip fit to be able to reuse?
You’re probably right about Charles’ meaning.
It went together fairly quick (an hour maybe?) since I had spent a couple hours on the oem gears already that I tossed in scrap tub today.
Pinion was easy, pulled steel spacer (crush sleeve eliminator as oem gears the step on pinion is lower and Yukon gears move step up or towards the pinion nut thread so it’s essentially a built in cse, make sense?) I was using on oem set and it was gtg with shims I was using with the cse.
Carrier I had in and out several times to get backlash where I wanted it with my setup bearings. This was due to fact oem ring gear was so worn that the new Yukon ring gear was quite a bit different. I have a set of setup bearings for Dana 60’s they’re chinaman napa skf new bearings that I took a 60 grit sanding drum in my die grinder to the ID so they slip fit. Worth noting, I know from the multiple 60’s I’ve setup that I need the backlash to be .003 tighter than what I want with the Timken or Koyo bearings that I then press on.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 28, 2021, 09:03:21 AM
He knew.....Pretty sure he was referring to you making it sound easy, but never know with you 2.“Slapped”. Lol
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Yeah, should be attached to a yo mamma joke I suppose.....
Setup bearings? Sacrificial? Or do you grind the center out for a slip fit to be able to reuse?
Interesting about the Yukon gears.
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Post by: stlaser on March 28, 2021, 10:40:34 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/335ef9acf953a1c5a72008c0da20c87a.jpg)
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Studded up the housing and installed the lube locker and GLO cover then “slapped” some chassis saver on it and touched up housing. Let er dry and get it back where it belongs.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 28, 2021, 12:46:47 PM
Looks good. Bullet proof I’d say.
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Post by: America.Mike on March 29, 2021, 12:52:53 PM
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Post by: JR on March 29, 2021, 01:03:52 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 03, 2021, 09:06:43 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/03a9872d758d4d87a8f6b990ce0c6f77.jpg)
Power steering pump came in, made a stud from a grade 8.8 12mm x 1.75 bolt for the top mount hole. This is actually a pump only no vacuum from a 4bt school bus setup.
Bolted front axle to radius arms, need to install suspension yet.
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Post by: KensAuto on April 03, 2021, 10:33:36 PM
Leaving it blue?
Post by: stlaser on April 03, 2021, 10:54:23 PM
That's pretty trick.
Leaving it Ford blue?
FIFY
Yep, think it’s fitting.....
Post by: stlaser on April 06, 2021, 10:09:21 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/8a33ec34342a8ed6551c2f6c188a64df.jpg)
Freshened up the aftermarket 3 piece exhaust with some new high heat paint.
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Post by: stlaser on April 06, 2021, 10:18:55 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210407/7f7ba74af0000dff9ad574ecdb79f55e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210407/b9e1a19d0194e34b56cb2cfca66e8d78.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210407/6cb25e01a8f9f30da1c907d8f9778239.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210407/4e2566ebec35d42b2425de6ac10166c9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210407/d86d896b0478172705e75428d79d9470.jpg)
Exhaust manifold is on, test fitted small turbo & ordered some specialty hardware to mount it permanently. Front fat 60 axle is hung and leveling kit is 75% installed, bilstein shock was missing upper hardware so waiting on that.
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Post by: JR on April 06, 2021, 10:26:17 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 06, 2021, 10:39:12 PM
Thats the small turbo? Looks great in there.
Super B S364.5 Turbo
BD Single Turbo kits cover a range of turbos that are an easy complete bolt-on performance replacement for your OEM turbo, providing enough air for more power, response and reliability
The SX-E turbo was designed for performance with a 360 thrust bearing and enhanced compressor wheel and housing
Larger compressor blade surface but with a smaller inducer results in quicker spooling, more flow than similar sized wheels
The high strength FMW Forged Milled Wheels are lighter and stronger and withstand higher wheel speeds
BD exclusive feature of a heavy sprung waste-gated T3 turbine housing that mounts onto stock exhaust manifolds
BD's HD Waste gate and bracket holds boost and prevents over speed damage
Turnbuckle Boost Control allows for ease of adjustment for altitude and extreme tuning
Kit comes with downpipe, V-band clamp, band clamp
Comp Wheel: 64.5mm 2.54in
Turbine Wheel: 80mm 3.15in
A/R Ratio: 0.80
Flow: 82 Lb/min
Approximate rated 600hp (depending on truck configuration)
This is what I bought first, prior to being talked into compounds.
Post by: JR on April 06, 2021, 11:12:32 PM
Have no idea what I have for mine, but as I said I am running the 6.2 now. Will optimize that soon. Unless I stud I am stuck at about 6-8 boost.
Post by: stlaser on April 07, 2021, 09:05:14 AM
That'll move it some. What around 800-900 tq?
Have no idea what I have for mine, but as I said I am running the 6.2 now. Will optimize that soon. Unless I stud I am stuck at about 6-8 boost.
Honestly, I have no idea. I recon it will be enough though. My larger concern is getting 5R110 built to handle the motor. If I toss the checkbook at it and it doesn’t survive I may do zf6 swap in future is my thinking.
2001 24v p pump 215hp w/stock size injector lines & 150hp injectors
Hamilton 178/208 camshaft and upgraded springs
O-ringed & arp studded head with stock crank / rods
Oversized high compression pistons
Afc live, 4k gov springs
Compounds S364.5 / S474.5
Timing set at 19 degrees
Specs on S474.5 turbo below
Commonly used as a big single turbo or as the atmosphere (big/top turbo) in compound turbo set-ups, this S474.5(SX4) turbo flows up to 100lbs/min. That’s enough flow for a maximum of 800+HP! This turbo has been and still is a popular application for compound set-ups where it is compounded in conjunction with the stock turbo. Whether you want to finish the quarter mile in record time, make a full pull with a sled, or just have more power to pull your camper, this turbo will help get you there.
Features:
*800+HP Capable
Twin hydrodynamic journal bearings
Extended tip technology compressor wheel
Twin scroll turbine housing
Adjustable compressor and turbine housing orientation
Compressor cover re-circulation grooves
74.5mm Compressor wheel Inducer Diameter
84mm Turbine Wheel Outer Diameter
1.10 T4 turbine housing
Post by: JR on April 07, 2021, 02:27:31 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 07, 2021, 05:26:19 PM
ZF6 i see more of those out there than the 4500. Would you do a divorced tcase or can you mount one up?
Ford zf6 so np273 ford setup, prefer manual t-case and do away with switch
Post by: stlaser on April 12, 2021, 01:44:34 PM
Post by: JR on April 12, 2021, 02:35:25 PM
ZF6 has better shifting right? About the same ratios?
Post by: stlaser on April 12, 2021, 05:09:12 PM
Post by: JR on April 12, 2021, 05:35:45 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 21, 2021, 05:20:42 PM
Interestingly enough I went to install yoke and it had a bit of wear on the seal area underneath. So I had another yoke that came in on an axle with a bent pinion. That yoke had little to no wear in that pinion seal area. So I put both in a lathe and checked runout on the yokes. The bent pinion unit was .001-.002 run out, the worn unit from non bent pinion was close to .010
After checking Yukon’s price of a couple bills for new yoke I chose the bent pinion unit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210421/c70431f6b78ee44b5f6d69663029b64d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210421/11e9f6eeee43191f16d68829052a4959.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210421/8a4bc1705ba5414b3899f7c25a68e145.jpg)
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Post by: JR on April 21, 2021, 05:28:01 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 21, 2021, 05:29:30 PM
Darn clean pattern there Shawn. Nice work.
Thank you, arms are shot that ring and carrier is a bit heavy..... :tongue:
Probably how Ken feels after putting H’s shoes on for her!
Post by: JR on April 21, 2021, 05:40:58 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on April 24, 2021, 06:21:08 PM
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Post by: stlaser on May 16, 2021, 04:52:47 PM
1550 Spicer Non Serviceable Lifetime U-joints for the Fat 60
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Post by: stlaser on June 07, 2021, 09:34:15 PM
Pressing in ball joints
In addition I picked up a Dana 80 rear Detroit locker PN 915A652 it was NOS $300
So yes the rear axle trak lok was rebuilt using Yukon clutches and center chunk is already together laying under truck. However, I’m going to put it back on stands and swap this in. I’ll keep the trak lok as a backup or for another build in the future.
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Post by: stlaser on June 08, 2021, 05:34:21 PM
Another small piece of the puzzle solved today, these are the sleeves for the upper ball joint on the Superduty F550 front axle that correct the caster by 2 degrees after installing the leveling kit.
I ordered F350 ones originally not thinking about axle origin. After calling three places I was able to get ahold of SPC (Longmont, CO company btw) who gave me the correct pn and told me Oreilley’s is a stocking customer for their components.
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Post by: stlaser on June 08, 2021, 05:39:00 PM
Slot faces rear of truck, this tilts the knuckle 2 degrees correcting caster angle
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Post by: JR on June 08, 2021, 05:47:29 PM
Post by: stlaser on June 08, 2021, 06:20:28 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210608/c30c201b2fdb7df8313ff0dc62a7aecd.jpg)
WARNING
FYI: this is correct orientation of these parts. If you follow Carli Suspension instructions you have a 50% chance of putting them in backwards which is what I did originally. The instructions contradict themselves, after looking at the axle a couple times I went back and reread it. I also deal with front end caster a lot so the average person may not have caught it.
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on June 08, 2021, 08:12:52 PM
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 09, 2021, 07:57:58 AM
Maybe them including an illustration for those that can’t read well...
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Post by: stlaser on June 09, 2021, 02:17:32 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210609/57d6678925f2df23a38705af9633d1ab.jpg)
Slight issue, Detroit I picked up wasn’t the abs model apparently. Old carrier had a step for this abs tooth ring to sit in on the carrier.
So I called Tate to see if they had a different abs ring, he then informed me it was an altogether different carrier for the ford application. I lucked out and the OD of carrier was still press fit for ID of tooth ring. Tate suggested I weld the ring in place, I agreed. It’s tack welded both sides in half a dozen places. I also did some precision measuring from ring gear seat area so it’s lined up correctly. Letting it cool now prior to reassembly.
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Post by: EL TATE on June 09, 2021, 02:24:15 PM
Post by: stlaser on June 09, 2021, 03:40:32 PM
All back together
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210609/86012094d995abefb2cb6ac2ff3c4b4e.jpg)
I swear that setup with the Eaton carrier versus oem trak lok is double the weight too. Probably not, but it’s definitely noticeably heavier. Kind of like H after her year long excuse tour as to why she lost again!
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Post by: EL TATE on June 09, 2021, 05:17:41 PM
Post by: EL TATE on June 09, 2021, 05:18:27 PM
Post by: stlaser on June 09, 2021, 06:50:09 PM
So the “thin” part is referring to the wall of the cylinder and not the thickness of the flange on top?
Maybe them including an illustration for those that can’t read well...
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I don’t read instructions, I skim read and look at pictures. Gets me in trouble I guess. Fat part on top needs to be facing forward so it kicks top of knuckle towards rear which adds positive caster to the axle. When setting up a front axle 6-7 degrees positive caster is rule of thumb.
Post by: stlaser on June 09, 2021, 06:51:59 PM
factory t/l 34.6lbs, truetrac 47.8lbs, you're not crazy, just old. Maybe your wife or daughter could pickup that extra 13lbs for you?
Thanks Tate, yeah I’ve been running miles and skipping gym lately. Glad the setup was technically done with the lighter carrier now looking back!
Post by: EL TATE on June 10, 2021, 11:40:34 AM
Post by: stlaser on June 10, 2021, 05:22:13 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210610/4b44f7f104e503eccadc72bf91dc0751.jpg)
Upgraded ac compressor pulley to 8 rib versus 6 to match other pulleys and added a wider belt.
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Post by: stlaser on June 16, 2021, 10:07:23 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210616/949c74030816ae45379edf6ffa3745e8.jpg)
Knuckles back on front axle, ordered a set of outer axle tube seals from sealsit.com so working on compound mount setup now
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210616/a1ddeee49aa6bbbfe0b2087fc4b17f59.jpg)
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Post by: oldkoot on June 16, 2021, 10:17:06 AM
Welding on carriers..... always fun :cheesy:
Post by: stlaser on June 16, 2021, 10:20:53 AM
Post by: oldkoot on June 16, 2021, 10:27:23 AM
Post by: JR on June 16, 2021, 01:42:28 PM
Post by: stlaser on June 16, 2021, 02:24:38 PM
Whats the fun of doing stock on a custom build?
Technically I’m not on a time frame, it gets done when it’s done. Hope to have the chassis back to a roller in a couple weeks
Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 17, 2021, 06:54:51 AM
Man ya been working on that truck forever.....nice to see it's getting much closer. I have been collecting parts and intend to toss some ac in my crew soon...104 degrees here tomorrow they claim.well well. Look what the cat drug in….Howdy!
Welding on carriers..... always fun :cheesy:
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Post by: KensAuto on June 17, 2021, 11:57:20 AM
And just like that, he's gone.Man ya been working on that truck forever.....nice to see it's getting much closer. I have been collecting parts and intend to toss some ac in my crew soon...104 degrees here tomorrow they claim.well well. Look what the cat drug in….Howdy!
Welding on carriers..... always fun :cheesy:
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Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 01:12:12 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/72d79814d2dc270d0a3d6a3b535d8a3b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/4144cfab74e3c38f163bf747a785bed5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/1def53de2d0520a11bd4c80ee146503f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/df603e50d263e23a862393cb01d1e348.jpg)
So some scrap tube, time and about $50 for two flanges I was able to get second turbo mounted. Still need to fab up support brace for it and then put some paint on it.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 17, 2021, 06:24:04 PM
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Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 07:27:41 PM
That’s going to be awesome
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Hope so, just want to get it back to a roller at this point.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 17, 2021, 09:26:00 PM
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Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 09:46:48 PM
You gonna re clock the housing to get the primary output pointing closer to the intake for the secondary? Trying to visualize
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Yeah, things need oriented. Going to get oil inlet outlet set correctly then worry about primary routing later. Plenty of guys have done this on a fummins so I know it will work. Most likely once I drop cab back down onto chassis. My biggest concern was getting large turbo tucked up close to the block. It needs to be 11” from pass side of block out to farthest point now that I’m thinking about it I should probably measure that to double check it. Need new down pipe to as the one I had purchased for single isn’t large enough for the new big turbo.
Alcan rear springs showed up today, I’ll get pics tomorrow. I ordered 5100 bilsteins for rear and am in process of ordering new rear u-bolts as well. I’m going to modify a set of bolt on Sterling rear axle lower shock mounts to work with the Dana 80 axle.
Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 09:49:07 PM
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Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 09:52:54 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on June 17, 2021, 10:12:46 PM
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Post by: stlaser on June 17, 2021, 10:52:31 PM
Duh. My bad. The big one blow through the little one.
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Correct, so little one should help with low end and mid range with big boy kicking in to help with mid range and top end. Less lag, mechanical pump with afc live so tuning the fuel in the cab is possible. Still a long way to go but I’m excited.
Post by: Flyin6 on June 28, 2021, 08:28:08 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/857efc3f9e58fc1a314a7b25701d84fd.jpg)Seriously, some great work there S!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/72d79814d2dc270d0a3d6a3b535d8a3b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/4144cfab74e3c38f163bf747a785bed5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/1def53de2d0520a11bd4c80ee146503f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/df603e50d263e23a862393cb01d1e348.jpg)
So some scrap tube, time and about $50 for two flanges I was able to get second turbo mounted. Still need to fab up support brace for it and then put some paint on it.
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You should open a shop or something
;-))
Post by: stlaser on July 06, 2021, 02:00:50 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/bc412c38261c6206ef39eb60a1df5893.jpg)
Was going to have the front as a roller again today and then realized the F350 unit bearings come with roughly 1/2” shorter studs than needed for F550 knuckles. After some research Dorman makes a kit of 4 studs and 4 nuts PN- 917515 for the original F550 unit bearings. Ordered 2 sets of those from Oreileys and they will be here tomorrow afternoon late now. In addition I had to buy another wheel speed sensor as the new one on the unit bearing was broke in transit.
Now to work on hanging rear Alcan leaf springs
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Post by: JR on July 06, 2021, 02:13:15 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 06, 2021, 04:33:17 PM
I was able to get the updated tensioner mount installed and it’s perfect. Hats off to Mike Fuchs who build fummins swap parts. He took care of me on this project, stand up guy. He had an issue with his design and went above and beyond to make it right. Before and after pics
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/c36bc4b59469b81192157bd65be7f0c3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/6b42ca382decf3daf26c82eb24b2e5bb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/e6db4258e601feb4939efde9587688c4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/d83d76e21d4f6ede3d9c5a9a89a49677.jpg)
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Post by: JR on July 06, 2021, 06:23:14 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 06, 2021, 08:55:51 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/857efc3f9e58fc1a314a7b25701d84fd.jpg)Seriously, some great work there S!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/72d79814d2dc270d0a3d6a3b535d8a3b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/4144cfab74e3c38f163bf747a785bed5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/1def53de2d0520a11bd4c80ee146503f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/df603e50d263e23a862393cb01d1e348.jpg)
So some scrap tube, time and about $50 for two flanges I was able to get second turbo mounted. Still need to fab up support brace for it and then put some paint on it.
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You should open a shop or something
;-))
Appreciate the kind words
Post by: stlaser on July 15, 2021, 10:04:47 AM
So I could use these wheels and tires on excursion here in a month or two when I put a 2.5” level kit on it but think 35’s will rub. Or I could use these on fummins still and run thin wheel spacers. 1/2” max, think 1/4” would be enough though.
Open to discussion unless your name is Ken and or if your name is Dave and resides in Mormon country….
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210715/17040f7c6245b7a8b7e2dc37ca2767bf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210715/257bb85a1fab75e1538b57792e6658af.jpg)
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Post by: KensAuto on July 15, 2021, 10:11:07 AM
Post by: stlaser on July 15, 2021, 10:48:33 AM
26's. Done
Negative homie…..
So I stuck a couple 1/4” tabs behind the wheel on several studs. 1/2” total and it barely rubs…..
I think different wheels are in order.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 15, 2021, 11:25:37 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210715/edc87e75f6b777afdaa0bfe71a34236b.jpg)
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Post by: JR on July 15, 2021, 12:25:46 PM
Post by: EL TATE on July 15, 2021, 12:45:56 PM
I would grind the caliper without a second thought, paint them up and roll but that's me. you can still go off shelf parts moving forward with the knowledge you have to modify said parts. I would not go smaller brakes, and bigger wheel/tire combo seems like $$$ to me. if you can find longer studs and a spacer that doesn't bolt to the hub while maintaining the center hub pilot contact with the wheel I'd feel OK about it, but not great. big tires, heavy cummins all point towards bolts stuff working loose. $0.02
Post by: stlaser on July 15, 2021, 01:21:05 PM
Post by: EL TATE on July 15, 2021, 01:48:39 PM
No issue here in shop but if I’m on road somewhere then another story.
didn't think about that aspect of it. suppose you could carry one around, but that's pretty impractical.
Post by: KensAuto on July 15, 2021, 03:31:05 PM
Yeah, I’m not doing spacers. Rear is one thing, front another. I’ll use these wheels and tires on the excursion and make them work. Could grind calipers and have done that in the past on various vehicles but if a caliper goes I want to bolt a new one on and go is my thinking. No issue here in shop but if I’m on road somewhere then another story.And how often do calipers go out on the road especially on a mostly road truck?
I can count on one hand how many I've seen in 35 years.... and most of those were from people running the pads down until the pistons popped.
I may have said 26s, but I meant 30s. Thanks Charles. Question is, gold spokes, or is that too flashy?
Post by: EL TATE on July 15, 2021, 03:38:24 PM
Yeah, I’m not doing spacers. Rear is one thing, front another. I’ll use these wheels and tires on the excursion and make them work. Could grind calipers and have done that in the past on various vehicles but if a caliper goes I want to bolt a new one on and go is my thinking. No issue here in shop but if I’m on road somewhere then another story.And how often do calipers go out on the road especially on a mostly road truck?
I can count on one hand how many I've seen in 35 years.... and most of those were from people running the pads down until the pistons popped.
I may have said 26s, but I meant 30s. Thanks Charles. Question is, gold spokes, or is that too flashy?
150 spoke Daytons, 13"s on a 45* camber
Post by: JR on July 15, 2021, 03:53:44 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 16, 2021, 09:45:08 AM
I’m looking at wheels and it’s a work truck. For the price of bling aluminum in 20’s I’d rather have some Detroit Steelies I think, American made to boot. Simple and strong, makes sense to me for this truck.
https://detroitsteelwheel.com/products/
Thinking set of smoothies in low gloss white powder.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 16, 2021, 01:08:40 PM
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Post by: stlaser on July 16, 2021, 03:17:50 PM
With your superb ability to spot deals on CL and FBMP I’d look for some used wheels
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Quit making sense Charles…….
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 16, 2021, 04:16:45 PM
Logic does not apply
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Post by: JR on July 16, 2021, 04:17:50 PM
Post by: KensAuto on July 16, 2021, 08:42:32 PM
With your superb ability to spot deals on CL and FBMP I’d look for some used wheelsFrom what I hear, he does more than spot deals on CL.
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Post by: JR on July 16, 2021, 09:57:26 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on July 18, 2021, 10:06:24 AM
So I did consider grinding calipers but it’s a lot…..Yea!
I’m looking at wheels and it’s a work truck. For the price of bling aluminum in 20’s I’d rather have some Detroit Steelies I think, American made to boot. Simple and strong, makes sense to me for this truck.
https://detroitsteelwheel.com/products/
Thinking set of smoothies in low gloss white powder.
I totally like those and agree they would be a character match as well as a good serviceable wheel
Post by: Flyin6 on July 18, 2021, 10:08:08 AM
LDNA^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Logic does not apply
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I like this
Makes sense
and
actin' Armee like
;-))
Post by: stlaser on July 18, 2021, 11:16:14 AM
Post by: KensAuto on July 18, 2021, 03:01:10 PM
Should be stout enough.
Post by: stlaser on July 18, 2021, 05:02:47 PM
Charles was right, 4 used center line 20 x 10’s $100 each. Going to have them blasted and my buddies dad who is an auto body painter owes me a favor. Going to have them painted flat black. I can probably pick up a single wheel from a wrecked truck for an unmatched spare cheap from an axle core supplier.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 18, 2021, 05:08:08 PM
I like those..
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Post by: stlaser on July 18, 2021, 05:40:10 PM
Can't go wrong with centerlines imo.
Should be stout enough.
Nope these are heavy wheels, should be gtg in strength Dept
Post by: KensAuto on July 18, 2021, 10:34:38 PM
I love it when I’m right with other people’s money…..I like those as well. Wanted to put those on my old truck back in the day but couldn't afford them at the time.
I like those..
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Also like the color as is
Post by: stlaser on July 18, 2021, 10:58:54 PM
I love it when I’m right with other people’s money…..I like those as well. Wanted to put those on my old truck back in the day but couldn't afford them at the time.
I like those..
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Also like the color as is
Copy, rattle can and you can tell it wasn’t prepped very well. I have a couple axle housings going to blaster this week so these will tag along then put a nice paint job on them. Something that will last more than a month.
Post by: stlaser on August 02, 2021, 01:14:51 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210802/b4e74b7d97fd3605592e8168074b7da2.jpg)
Wheels came back from paint Saturday and I dropped them off this morning to get the Cooper SST’s 37x12.50R20’s mounted and balanced. Still need to pick up some black stainless hardware for the simulated beadlocks.
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on August 02, 2021, 02:23:39 PM
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Post by: stlaser on August 02, 2021, 02:32:59 PM
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Post by: stlaser on August 02, 2021, 02:33:59 PM
They look really good!
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Thank you, more than happy with my $400 wheels
Post by: JR on August 02, 2021, 05:58:53 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on August 02, 2021, 09:10:52 PM
Thank your local redneck for having faith in your proven process lolThey look really good!
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Thank you, more than happy with my $400 wheels
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 02, 2021, 09:54:26 PM
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Post by: stlaser on August 03, 2021, 11:48:49 AM
Post by: oklawall on August 04, 2021, 10:25:40 AM
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Post by: stlaser on August 04, 2021, 11:55:40 PM
They look great
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Thanks, no pics but new main rear leads were installed on the Alcan rear packs and then they were hung in place. Hoping to get the rear axle hung in next couple days.
Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2021, 11:18:07 AM
Little more slow progress
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Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2021, 11:52:58 AM
After a lot of wrangling back and forth with the built backwards Alcan Springs the rear axle is now centered up in the flat bed wheel well opening too.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 10, 2021, 12:03:38 PM
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Post by: oklawall on August 10, 2021, 02:15:07 PM
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Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2021, 06:14:11 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210810/d3e8f357eb8c996bc13703b1b70d0e18.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210810/a72ce80ce1d01776f898ef9a98746cfc.jpg)
Apparently builder used a crank saver on that low mileage motor rebuild….. gunna have flywheel cut open to fit crank
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Post by: oklawall on August 10, 2021, 06:55:22 PM
Oklawall ya just jinxed me……Man I'm so sorry. That stinks
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210810/d3e8f357eb8c996bc13703b1b70d0e18.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210810/a72ce80ce1d01776f898ef9a98746cfc.jpg)
Apparently builder used a crank saver on that low mileage motor rebuild….. gunna have flywheel cut open to fit crank
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Post by: KensAuto on August 10, 2021, 07:37:37 PM
Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2021, 08:01:36 PM
Don't be a baby. Trim it off
That’s an idea, you thinking Dremel cut off wheels? Try to keep it cool? Not my normal scope of work Ken
Post by: rpar86 on August 10, 2021, 10:39:02 PM
Post by: stlaser on August 10, 2021, 10:51:04 PM
In English for the noobs on here? Lip on the flywheel won’t fit over the crank?
There is a thin piece of metal riding around outside of crank (seal saver) where crank seal rides. That seal saver will not allow flex plate to bolt up. Ken’s solution was to trim that seal saver back to allow flex plate to bolt up to crank
Post by: JR on August 10, 2021, 11:56:01 PM
Post by: stlaser on August 11, 2021, 09:11:08 AM
I bet the seal saver sleeve was not seated all the way. Since the lip is factory, they would have comped for that.
I would agree, except I spoke with Ken last night and he’s trimmed these more than once. I assume he’s installed them too. So thinking that might not be case as some of these seal savers are generic in terms of size only and not application
Post by: stlaser on August 11, 2021, 09:24:32 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/10e20c60043c79d2be1e13f4f7a09c44.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/8fa2c9d5021f2c472371f5a7525b2e8f.jpg)
Trimmed, not a fun job. Glad I did it as that flex plate is a tight fit on the crank. ARP flex plate bolts getting the install in the morning. Ken gave the cut job two thumbs up and agreed it’s a Cummins so regardless the motor will leak, time will tell if from the crank seal area.
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Post by: oldkoot on August 12, 2021, 12:06:55 PM
Post by: stlaser on August 12, 2021, 04:56:00 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/d28701c415931dc5985b328f4e2a5c85.jpg)
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Post by: Sammconn on August 12, 2021, 04:59:45 PM
Let me tell you the struggle was real and I’m glad that’s on. Had to cut the ARP flex bolts down .150 on lathe so that they wouldn’t bottom out in the crank. Yes, they are hard…..I hope I have better luck.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/d28701c415931dc5985b328f4e2a5c85.jpg)
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Mine are awaiting reconstruction of the rest of the motor.
Looking good though.
My factory front and rear mains both have the same seal savers.
Need to figure out how to drive them.
Post by: stlaser on August 12, 2021, 08:49:12 PM
Let me tell you the struggle was real and I’m glad that’s on. Had to cut the ARP flex bolts down .150 on lathe so that they wouldn’t bottom out in the crank. Yes, they are hard…..I hope I have better luck.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/d28701c415931dc5985b328f4e2a5c85.jpg)
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Mine are awaiting reconstruction of the rest of the motor.
Looking good though.
My factory front and rear mains both have the same seal savers.
Need to figure out how to drive them.
Good luck :wink:
Ken uses them maybe he’ll pop in with advice
Post by: TexasRedNeck on August 12, 2021, 11:49:45 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on August 13, 2021, 12:25:55 AM
The driving lip should peel off if necessary, once installed, if you can get to it (if the crank is out of the block).
Post by: stlaser on August 23, 2021, 08:33:54 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210824/78b51b07a280817c7d6be202c678ebe9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210824/ea0dd313c48a857ab1bb368dbfb1af6f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210824/80b9d196e5bed045c7caa9c6fb39564d.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on October 10, 2021, 08:22:22 PM
Below is a pictorial of how you disassemble and install them. I do believe this is the only “write up” for these parts on the internet as I couldn’t find them on the rcv site or on any searches I tried. I had three lockouts to start the process. One was pretty roached out and partially broken. One was in really good shape a d another I thought was in good shape but ended up being broken and missing parts once I opened it up. I was able to end up with two good upgraded units at the end.
The orings with these were stretched so I ordered new ones and I do not recommend using the gasket but a small bead of rtv when installing them along with a liberal amount of marine grease coating the internals. A common issue with these is water getting inside and locking them up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/9e3ab3e54fe003bca26cbecea0d16a8b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/30279c15b51d63704aff6d34a96f24aa.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/3ca5c9475c9151f4fd6fcf210584ee50.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/5c6a682175706f81394225693d940625.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/d3e257edc2872e02ef09708a74b2d026.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/863e97d2c8a5ef0300ee092d384bac93.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/365e7297327a5c5119e6bea3b3b11c20.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/45ff9389528348e9a45a970704eec55e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/b6948428c91c07ce3862b45861d85cc0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/64472750c512b67fb8cc0be12deac135.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/4d03ca1f5fa31a282ba0c940fbb24eed.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/856d754a4377e73fb387e4571be41caa.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/4536250b468a02d60490c00071319ff0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/e44d1d2c31fb764ca897da3d8984cca2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211011/ef8363e7fbe5466884da4a04fdebac9b.jpg)
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on October 11, 2021, 07:34:01 AM
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Post by: stlaser on October 11, 2021, 08:47:04 AM
Never actually seen the inside of a locking hub before, what’s diffrnt with a waren brand?
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Idk, I refuse to spend money on those lockouts. It’s been rumored they make the oem ones for ford though. I seriously doubt the internal is made from 300m though so to me this seemed like a better option.
Post by: stlaser on December 12, 2021, 03:10:11 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211212/9804a8a3b517caebcd20efe2ca4c6c08.jpg)
It’s a roller again
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 12, 2021, 03:12:11 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on December 12, 2021, 04:22:00 PM
Those wheels look killer!I agree
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Post by: stlaser on December 12, 2021, 05:16:13 PM
The back story is the diesel shop who built the motor has an opening end of this week. They’re technically closed for two weeks over the holidays but the head mechanic is still working and he wanted this truck for fill in work. I don’t have time for it and that shop is pretty deep in my pocket currently. So the plan is to have them do the fuel system, install trans and t-case then fire motor and break in cam. If anything goes wrong we’ll it’s on them and not me. Plus I get some of my money back.
Post by: stlaser on December 16, 2021, 08:19:07 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/b9d432a731f38810ca900f26b5dc2ea0.jpg)
Headed to diesel shop in the morning. Needs front flares which I had planned on buying anyhow. Currently has that gay Carolina lean, that will need addressed. From the front of flat bed to the rear it slopes rearward about 5/8” so I’m thinking I need a 1.5” lift block in the rear or a reverse shackle flip maybe would be more appropriate.
Oh and those rcv inserts in the lockouts I installed. Yeah, those aren’t machined correctly. Went to install them and couldn’t get them in, so went and grabbed an oem stub shaft in 35 spline off the shelf. It won’t slide in either, think their broach was worn out of tolerance and or the heat treat / finish fubarred them.
Called RCV they can’t find order so I looked up invoice and sent it to them this evening. We’ll see how this goes……
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Post by: stlaser on December 16, 2021, 08:57:34 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 16, 2021, 10:20:28 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/5fabdf58cc8774a794181b1baef40ec4.jpg)Oh man you are insensitive. There is at least one Dave with hurt feelings right now….
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/b9d432a731f38810ca900f26b5dc2ea0.jpg)
Currently has that gay Carolina lean, that will need addressed. From the front of flat bed to the rear it slopes rearward about 5/8”
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Post by: stlaser on December 16, 2021, 10:39:56 PM
Surprised Ken hasn’t chimed in yet, you know he’s a pretty sensitive guy. I mean you wouldn’t think so with that narcissistic gf H he has and all.
Post by: oklawall on December 17, 2021, 07:03:21 AM
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Post by: stlaser on December 17, 2021, 12:36:39 PM
I see that you are taking her to Twin Peaks Diesel. Do the technician wear those short blue jeans and the tied up flannel shorts? LOL I couldn't help myself
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Negative, and I don’t think anyone. Well, I don’t need to see that! Lol
Post by: stlaser on December 17, 2021, 12:41:07 PM
Post by: oklawall on December 17, 2021, 01:43:52 PM
I know I don't even want to think about that. Just wanted to make sure I stayed away from that shop if they dressed like thatI see that you are taking her to Twin Peaks Diesel. Do the technician wear those short blue jeans and the tied up flannel shorts? LOL I couldn't help myself
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Negative, and I don’t think anyone. Well, I don’t need to see that! Lol
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Post by: stlaser on December 17, 2021, 03:00:45 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 17, 2021, 05:21:46 PM
Midnitearc has a set on his cummins and it looks really good I think
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Post by: stlaser on December 17, 2021, 08:02:39 PM
:tongue:
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 17, 2021, 08:30:30 PM
I’m not that cool Dave…..Form and function all in one
:tongue:
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Post by: stlaser on December 17, 2021, 11:05:34 PM
I’m not that cool Dave…..Form and function all in one
:tongue:
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$700 a set plus paint, I’m considering it…….
I’ve known guys who have run their product, pretty good quality. Thanks Dave you just tripled my cost for the upgrade…..
https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/products/08-10-ford-superduty-3-bulge-off-road-fiberglass-fenders
Post by: stlaser on December 31, 2021, 01:37:02 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211231/b132021cbfae69fa19527b56e83552e2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211231/5dab6e3ea08645cf41c7009b67928ee3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211231/a93f8841cfc9fe04e625223e3572eec0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211231/ccc1db46674b8a79758e698e75e1e4fe.jpg)
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Post by: KensAuto on December 31, 2021, 03:16:40 PM
Post by: rpar86 on December 31, 2021, 04:32:25 PM
Maybe you're putting them on upside downMaybe cuz it’s a Furd.
Post by: stlaser on December 31, 2021, 05:46:40 PM
Maybe you're putting them on upside down
Not surprised this came from you…..
After discussing with my machinist buddy he just thinks the tool was worn out and maybe the shaft they’re checking it on is worn.
Post by: KensAuto on December 31, 2021, 07:26:08 PM
Maybe send one of yours so they can get their crap straight. I mean, if you tried 3, it has to be on their end.Maybe you're putting them on upside down
Not surprised this came from you…..
After discussing with my machinist buddy he just thinks the tool was worn out and maybe the shaft they’re checking it on is worn.
Post by: stlaser on December 31, 2021, 08:39:21 PM
Maybe send one of yours so they can get their crap straight. I mean, if you tried 3, it has to be on their end.Maybe you're putting them on upside down
Not surprised this came from you…..
After discussing with my machinist buddy he just thinks the tool was worn out and maybe the shaft they’re checking it on is worn.
Thinking they just need to send me my money back and Tate needs to hurry up on the Yukon units already. I mean it is his fault that they’re not ready I’m sure! They’ve known we needed a good option since 2005……
Maybe I’ll just say screw it and run drive flanges!
Post by: JR on January 01, 2022, 05:03:25 PM
Maybe you're putting them on upside downMaybe cuz it’s a Furd.
My thoughts too.
Post by: stlaser on January 01, 2022, 07:42:26 PM
Maybe you're putting them on upside downMaybe cuz it’s a Furd.
My thoughts too.
Technically it’s Dana and an axle that gets swapped under everything
Post by: JR on January 01, 2022, 09:21:11 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 02, 2022, 08:08:03 AM
That is why people use the axles and junk the trucks,,,,,,,,,,,,
Not a better chassis out there, yeah they had crappy diesel motors thus the Cummins swap…….
Post by: KensAuto on January 02, 2022, 07:31:27 PM
That is why people use the axles and junk the trucks,,,,,,,,,,,,
Not a better chassis out there, yeah they had crappy diesel motors thus the Cummins swap…….
Post by: stlaser on January 02, 2022, 09:48:18 PM
That is why people use the axles and junk the trucks,,,,,,,,,,,,
Not a better chassis out there, yeah they had crappy diesel motors thus the Cummins swap…….
Well the 03-11 dodge front axles bend, the very thin housing casting actually allows tubes to bend up. There’s a reason Artec makes an undermount front truss for them. I straighten the tubes and weld them on. Then the GM’s have independent fronts so imo they didn’t even show up to compete…. :popcorn:
Or were you laughing about that mint Cummins I had gone thru after I bought it from you? :tongue:
Post by: JR on January 02, 2022, 09:53:44 PM
Heck my 6BT is going for 3x what I paid for it out here.
Post by: stlaser on January 02, 2022, 10:01:25 PM
Are those the AAM 9.5 fronts?
Heck my 6BT is going for 3x what I paid for it out here.
They are, I had 3 housings in my shop trying to find a straight one before I said screw it and proceeded to straighten it then weld truss on. I’m not sure there is a straight one anywhere if it’s been under a Cummins….
Yeah, those motors are bringing a premium here as well. I’d personally go 6.7 next time I think though.
Post by: JR on January 02, 2022, 10:09:57 PM
Post by: KensAuto on January 03, 2022, 08:48:06 AM
I'd still take a Chevy over either of those other 2.
None of them hold up to farm abuse, but one of them still rides better on and off the street.
Post by: stlaser on January 03, 2022, 09:11:18 AM
Ken, I’ll just leave this here for you……. :popcorn:
“Base” being key word where I’m from that includes axle assemblies.
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Post by: EL TATE on January 03, 2022, 06:09:25 PM
Maybe send one of yours so they can get their crap straight. I mean, if you tried 3, it has to be on their end.Maybe you're putting them on upside down
Not surprised this came from you…..
After discussing with my machinist buddy he just thinks the tool was worn out and maybe the shaft they’re checking it on is worn.
Thinking they just need to send me my money back and Tate needs to hurry up on the Yukon units already. I mean it is his fault that they’re not ready I’m sure! They’ve known we needed a good option since 2005……
Maybe I’ll just say screw it and run drive flanges!
Man that Tate guy, what a loo-hoo-zi-hur!
would love to help but left my engineering degree in my other pants
I'm with Ken on worn old axle and worn out tool .
Post by: JR on January 03, 2022, 06:19:46 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 03, 2022, 06:21:45 PM
Maybe send one of yours so they can get their crap straight. I mean, if you tried 3, it has to be on their end.Maybe you're putting them on upside down
Not surprised this came from you…..
After discussing with my machinist buddy he just thinks the tool was worn out and maybe the shaft they’re checking it on is worn.
Thinking they just need to send me my money back and Tate needs to hurry up on the Yukon units already. I mean it is his fault that they’re not ready I’m sure! They’ve known we needed a good option since 2005……
Maybe I’ll just say screw it and run drive flanges!
Man that Tate guy, what a loo-hoo-zi-hur!
would love to help but left my engineering degree in my other pants
I'm with Ken on worn old axle and worn out tool .
Way to go…. I’m poor, only one set of pants. Sorry, can’t relate! :tongue:
So spoke to rcv, guess I’ll see them on lake bed at KOH.
Post by: EL TATE on January 03, 2022, 06:41:50 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 03, 2022, 07:29:59 PM
Go bug Neal and Brian when you're down there and get some swag.
:likebutton:
Post by: stlaser on January 07, 2022, 11:28:03 PM
First, motor has been started but not broken in. Injection pump is getting sent out for rebuild as it wanted to run away dumping a lot of fuel. Go figure only item not updated other than t-case.
Positive note motor had 80# of oil pressure on mechanical guage immediately.
Next issue, ac compressor/ alternator mount is not right. Ac needs to come forward about .060 otherwise it’s trying to kick belt off. I spoke with guy who manufactures it and his take was to put a shim behind the pulley but not much room for that as a snap ring holds pulley on. His other option is to run a 6 rib pulley which it had originally but I either threw away or misplaced in shop move. Then buy another belt again as well, slightly irritated…… This is second issue with his mount. I’ve reached out about buying a mount machined correctly, no response yet.
Ac / alternator mount guy mentioned above did get me a contact in Indiana who could help with ecu to get Christmas tree dash taken care of due to upcoming missing parts on toilet end of the system. I sent that out ups today, cost was $250 return shipping included.
I’m needing p7100 pump throttle brackets if anyone has an extra set laying around. I texted Norm already but he hasn’t replied.
I am working on the gas peddle update, using v10 version modified onto stock 6.4l peddle to run a cable.
Gas tank sump is in, fass is mounted. I had to use a short piece of 5” channel welded to frame so pump could be mounted and removable if needed in future.
Replaced stock freeze plugs on side of block with aluminum aftermarket units, anti rattle. Have one and a 2 bolt bracket coming for rear unit.
Below picture is back (second turbo) oil drain port, starter is taking up some real estate. May try a 6.7 starter to see if clocked differently and is supposed to spin motor faster as well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220108/48c7bddfe79e2d1019c4ba6419cd6f83.jpg)
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Post by: JR on January 08, 2022, 12:17:22 AM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 08, 2022, 09:11:25 AM
Cough-cough. Listening big D? Duramax that burb.
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Post by: Flyin6 on January 08, 2022, 05:48:07 PM
And that’s the thing about swaps. Always a ton of time effort and money to get all the one off stuff figured out.Ya, I was listening
Cough-cough. Listening big D? Duramax that burb.
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Concur
Post by: JR on January 08, 2022, 05:59:43 PM
Now for a Dmax being electronic it may not be as bad but not speaking from experience ither.
Post by: Flyin6 on January 09, 2022, 05:30:48 PM
From what I always hear is just get a doner vehicle when you do a swap. You are SURE you have all the parts that way.Sorry to hyjack (or rather keep current hyjack going, S) Yea it may be coming down to that. I cannot keep current electronic over mechanical dash with no ECU. I can get the burb to move around, but no speedo, likely no higher function anything.
Now for a Dmax being electronic it may not be as bad but not speaking from experience ither.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 09, 2022, 07:33:08 PM
With a mild tune on stock parts you have 400 hp and 600+ ft-lbs.
Lots of labor on your part but its really plug and play. Except I would regear to 3.73 or 4:10 with a 6 speed conversion.
Don’t get discouraged, you have one of the nicest burbs in the country. With the money you’ll get from the motor and trans you’ll be nearly even.
Unless you stick that in the pre ranger’s truck…
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Post by: stlaser on January 12, 2022, 09:32:24 PM
After exhaustively searching for p-pump actuation brackets I found a diesel shop by the way or eBay that sells a bracket kit including cable for under $200, not bad considering the Cummins brackets run close to a grand. So it’s on order.
I should hear back on the prognosis of the injection pump rebuild late this week or early next.
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Post by: KensAuto on January 12, 2022, 09:37:53 PM
Post by: stlaser on January 12, 2022, 10:19:37 PM
Interesting. I don't remember you mentioning how much those factory brackets were worth when I was willing to take them off of my motors!
You didn’t have any so we never got that far…….
I guess I figured any you had would have been used heavily, you know hauling H around.
Post by: stlaser on January 14, 2022, 01:12:39 PM
Hold your powder Don. Find an 01-02 truck with lower mileage that’s been totaled and you have everything you need.P pump overhaul not quite $3300……
With a mild tune on stock parts you have 400 hp and 600+ ft-lbs.
Lots of labor on your part but its really plug and play. Except I would regear to 3.73 or 4:10 with a 6 speed conversion.
Don’t get discouraged, you have one of the nicest burbs in the country. With the money you’ll get from the motor and trans you’ll be nearly even.
Unless you stick that in the pre ranger’s truck…
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People suck, guy I bought it from said it was his back up……
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 14, 2022, 03:16:40 PM
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Post by: stlaser on January 29, 2022, 10:29:56 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/d1970b66ede26a4de77d1e82d6b0ab1b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/afe2bec892d9a0cfd8685753ad507745.jpg)
Greyhound called yesterday evening, told me they had a package to pickup and were open at 6am today.
Headed down around 6 and went to terminal, only thing there was a bunch of stinky homeless people. I have a new appreciation for first responders dealing with them as my wife used to in the ER. Then called guy back from last night whom I never received pickup address from. Ended up going to greyhound maintenance garage for pickup about a mile up the road.
They were packaged very well and no damage. These are 3”+ bulge fenders and have 2” more opening clearance of the wheel well tire area.
Good idea Utah Dave
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 29, 2022, 10:38:00 AM
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Post by: Flyin6 on January 29, 2022, 12:04:06 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/b208d198fc347b838390b0946ac6eb3d.jpg)Warning: This could place into question your good judgment...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/d1970b66ede26a4de77d1e82d6b0ab1b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/afe2bec892d9a0cfd8685753ad507745.jpg)
Greyhound called yesterday evening, told me they had a package to pickup and were open at 6am today.
Headed down around 6 and went to terminal, only thing there was a bunch of stinky homeless people. I have a new appreciation for first responders dealing with them as my wife used to in the ER. Then called guy back from last night whom I never received pickup address from. Ended up going to greyhound maintenance garage for pickup about a mile up the road.
They were packaged very well and no damage. These are 3”+ bulge fenders and have 2” more opening clearance of the wheel well tire area.
Good idea Utah Dave
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...You taking advice from a Dave...
;-)
But I like it!!!!!!!!!!!!
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 29, 2022, 04:49:31 PM
If I recall. You have a time or two also, mirrors on that gutless burb come to mind most recently(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/b208d198fc347b838390b0946ac6eb3d.jpg)Warning: This could place into question your good judgment...
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Greyhound called yesterday evening, told me they had a package to pickup and were open at 6am today.
Headed down around 6 and went to terminal, only thing there was a bunch of stinky homeless people. I have a new appreciation for first responders dealing with them as my wife used to in the ER. Then called guy back from last night whom I never received pickup address from. Ended up going to greyhound maintenance garage for pickup about a mile up the road.
They were packaged very well and no damage. These are 3”+ bulge fenders and have 2” more opening clearance of the wheel well tire area.
Good idea Utah Dave
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...You taking advice from a Dave...
;-)
But I like it!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by: Flyin6 on January 29, 2022, 05:47:33 PM
Can't get away with anything around this crowd!
Post by: stlaser on February 11, 2022, 09:02:25 PM
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I am no longer going to use the stand alone pcs controller. After much research the way to tune the 5R110 is by using hp tuners and the stock truck computer. I have hired Randy Gillam to tune the truck. He is the go to for these trans, if still using the 4R110 then the pcs is still the better way to go. Many people have pulled the pcs and had Randy help them go back to the other route although putting the wiring back to original is a major pia per Randy. I had not yet spliced the harness for stand alone. So this was an easy revert back for me. Hp tuner ordered and pcs controller nib now up for sale. I hope to recoup my initial investment as I bought it for wholesale as a destroked dealer.
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Post by: GmikeHall on February 20, 2022, 09:03:03 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220108/48c7bddfe79e2d1019c4ba6419cd6f83.jpg)
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[/quote]
What did you find to resolve this issue? I have the same issue with my setup and I do not see any way around it. My starter will not sit flush on the adapter nor will it clock to where the bolt hold line up. I have a 6.4 starter and curious if in fact some other starts may be clocked different?
[img]https://iili.io/1R4Bnt.jpg/[img]
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2022, 10:30:58 AM
Below picture is back (second turbo) oil drain port, starter is taking up some real estate. May try a 6.7 starter to see if clocked differently and is supposed to spin motor faster as well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220108/48c7bddfe79e2d1019c4ba6419cd6f83.jpg)
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What did you find to resolve this issue? I have the same issue with my setup and I do not see any way around it. My starter will not sit flush on the adapter nor will it clock to where the bolt hold line up. I have a 6.4 starter and curious if in fact some other starts may be clocked different?
[img]https://iili.io/1R4Bnt.jpg/[img]
[/quote]
I haven’t tried 6.7 starter yet, the $3300 injection pump rebuild set me back a little as far as ordering parts to try. The brain trust (fummins tech groups on all knowing fb) say to add drains in upper area of pan. I don’t believe one drain is enough for the compounds. I’ve considered having a special drain insert machined from aluminum stock just haven’t messed with it yet. I’m pretty sure I could do it though and make it clear the starter.
Post by: GmikeHall on February 20, 2022, 10:43:25 AM
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2022, 04:24:11 PM
The HP Tuner showed up today, so one more part ready to go.
Post by: GmikeHall on February 20, 2022, 07:12:29 PM
BWT, not trying to hijack your build thread..I just saw you had the same issue as I am having and figured I would share my findings and seek your findings on the problem.
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2022, 10:47:16 PM
Glad you posted up about 6.7 starter, I won’t waste my time. Biggest issue I see with the current options for the pound in drains are that they are super thin. I think a guy could mod one to clear with a little metal work and a tig welder. I also have a new pan on it, so I feel your pain. I do have a removable cross member under the motor so at least that isn’t a huge undertaking to remove it with block in chassis.
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2022, 10:54:15 PM
Post by: GmikeHall on February 21, 2022, 10:26:54 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on February 21, 2022, 10:47:24 AM
I was thinking if we should create some Sticky all about Fummins conversions??
Be careful, you (S) might be appointed lead on that...
;-)
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 22, 2022, 05:46:20 AM
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Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 07:20:07 AM
I’m pretty sure Shawn won’t be attempting this again once he gets this one done…..
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Not true Charles, albeit I’ve learned quite a few things but that is the process. I do have another 24v short block on a stand in my old shop even. :wink: This conversion is if anything gaining popularity and knowledge base. In the past you had 2-3 companies with conversion packages. I knew when starting those were not the way to go.
Now you have individuals who are creating their own little companies who do a much better job than the large conversion outfits at their specialty.
I’m currently 25-30k in this truck for a full custom truck essentially. Looking at the lay of the land so to speak that’s not really expensive in todays terms. My personal largest issue is I have too many irons in the fire. Moving shops has been one of the largest, add in a growing booming business and it’s just ground my own projects to a stand still. To the point I’m considering taking a scheduled month off in July or august to work only on my stuff. We’ll see if I can swing that as it has yet to be determined.
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 07:22:20 AM
I talked with Mike and He said he saw this once before on an early Common rail which is what I have. This engine was manufactured in 2002 and was in a 2003 dodge so I would say its early for sure. Not exactly sure but he said he is going to modify the clocking of the starter and cut one out sometime this week for testing. Apparently some of the oil drain ports were farther back than others.
Well, mine is an 01 block. Please stay on him about this (squeaky wheel idea) and let me / us know. I think I’ll message him as well but in meantime still move forward with modding the $25 drive in sheet metal drain.
Post by: KensAuto on February 22, 2022, 10:48:05 AM
I'll order one to look at for giggles.
Edit: Looked at 6.4 and 6.7..can't be done. Dumb idea.
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 01:36:16 PM
Post by: GmikeHall on February 22, 2022, 01:40:37 PM
I talked with Mike and He said he saw this once before on an early Common rail which is what I have. This engine was manufactured in 2002 and was in a 2003 dodge so I would say its early for sure. Not exactly sure but he said he is going to modify the clocking of the starter and cut one out sometime this week for testing. Apparently some of the oil drain ports were farther back than others.
Well, mine is an 01 block. Please stay on him about this (squeaky wheel idea) and let me / us know. I think I’ll message him as well but in meantime still move forward with modding the $25 drive in sheet metal drain.
Mike has made some changes to the starter clocking and is making me a new adapter plate. The fitment is close but it clears so that is all that matters. I also asked him to leave the start bolt holes m8 so I can use the 6.7 starter which for some reason is cheaper than the 6.4 starters. The biggest issues i have is being impatient waiting for all the parts to arrive. I have the engine pretty much sorted and ready to drop in once I have the Torque converter and new adapter plate in.
here are the pictures Mike sent showing the fitment with the changes. That is enough for me and even thought its still close it will work. I may put some rubber hose over the drain fill just in case to limit chances of rubbing a hole in the oil drain tube. I will see once I have it all together.
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 01:46:27 PM
Post by: GmikeHall on February 22, 2022, 04:05:38 PM
At least it is just a return, not a pressure line.
I guess a pressure line would drain your oil faster but even this return line could cause for a bad day if it had a bad hole in it. Looking forward to the new adapter plate coming in and getting this engine set in the truck.
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 04:16:12 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 22, 2022, 05:33:41 PM
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Post by: GmikeHall on February 22, 2022, 06:21:20 PM
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 06:21:49 PM
I like Mike and he stands behind his parts, has great customer service but I’m not going to pull adapter and exchange that too. I’ve had several issues and I’m pushing forward. I’m going to call tech support on the small turbo manufacturer and see what they think about a restricted oil return tube. Although thinking out loud I assume they have same size oil feed but maybe the smaller one has smaller passages internally somehow? I’m by no means a turbo expert.
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 07:02:21 PM
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 07:46:16 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on February 22, 2022, 08:21:05 PM
Seems like a whole lot fewer headaches removing an oil pan for modification.
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 08:22:21 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on February 22, 2022, 08:55:47 PM
They don't want to mod or remove the pan.OK, then...
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 09:23:08 PM
They don't want to mod or remove the pan.OK, then...
We both have a new pan, mine has been installed in the truck even. I’d rather just mod the oil drain, it seems much simpler than removing crossmember then pan then adding a weld in bung to then install pan and cross member again.
Post by: GmikeHall on February 22, 2022, 09:25:06 PM
I spoke to Mike as well just now. Unfortunately it’s a whole new machined plate as he rotated starter up and away. He did state plenty of people have modified it to work and restricting it slightly won’t cause an issue.
He said this was only second time he has seen the interference so bad. My starter wouldn't even bolt onto the plate without first grinding down the starter housing ear to the bolt head itself and then I removed .25" of depth and even beveled the bottom portion of the drain port on the block just to get the starter to bolt up. If this was a full on custom off road truck or something highly customized I would have had no problems doing something to make it work. I did mess around with the factory drain tube until It was not usable anymore and it became apparent that even with notching it way back there was still just not enough room for a truck that may travel across country or be on the road all the time. Anyhow, I sure do appreciate Mike's effort in re-clocking the starter a little to make it clear. It only takes a couple degrees of clocking to get the starter ear to drop below or well above the port.
Post by: JR on February 22, 2022, 09:28:32 PM
Post by: KensAuto on February 22, 2022, 09:31:03 PM
I think he's afraid his long hair will get caught in the creeper wheels. Really hurts. He told me.They don't want to mod or remove the pan.OK, then...
Post by: stlaser on February 22, 2022, 10:04:21 PM
I spoke to Mike as well just now. Unfortunately it’s a whole new machined plate as he rotated starter up and away. He did state plenty of people have modified it to work and restricting it slightly won’t cause an issue.
He said this was only second time he has seen the interference so bad. My starter wouldn't even bolt onto the plate without first grinding down the starter housing ear to the bolt head itself and then I removed .25" of depth and even beveled the bottom portion of the drain port on the block just to get the starter to bolt up. If this was a full on custom off road truck or something highly customized I would have had no problems doing something to make it work. I did mess around with the factory drain tube until It was not usable anymore and it became apparent that even with notching it way back there was still just not enough room for a truck that may travel across country or be on the road all the time. Anyhow, I sure do appreciate Mike's effort in re-clocking the starter a little to make it clear. It only takes a couple degrees of clocking to get the starter ear to drop below or well above the port.
I agree, yours looked a lot worse than mine.
Post by: GmikeHall on March 09, 2022, 10:18:32 AM
(https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPgtlD6xpu6x_yv1x-kA3ve9mQrfrK_6IbViDaL/[img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMHOgteiCrfPUAXQ_kjfQZygtFMzlbAL0acj3Zo)
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Post by: stlaser on April 21, 2022, 01:05:10 PM
I’ll be updating on what exactly the shop ia doing and not doing here in next couple days. Once they get injection pump in and motor fired I’ll be going down to discuss how to get this finished.
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Post by: stlaser on May 02, 2022, 05:30:39 PM
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After much deliberation I decided to find a spare tire for the truck. I actually found two nitto 37x12.5R20 used with 1/4 or more tread and no plugs for $50 each. Wheels on the other hand are expensive. So what I’ll probably end up doing is making one from a dodge spare 20” steel wheel. I’ll remove center and recenter to 8 on 170, I may even widen it to 10” so everything matches including back spacing. I’ve built beadlocks from these rim shells before.
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Post by: Flyin6 on May 03, 2022, 08:16:16 AM
And that is a good idea
Post by: stlaser on May 03, 2022, 09:04:21 AM
You are so resourceful!
And that is a good idea
Thanks
Frugal or cheap I guess. I can’t swallow $400+ per rim to be a spare that will never be used. Walmart sells the dodge 20” steel spares for $170 new but they’re 8” wide. I already have a source trying to find me at least one used. I’ve put 12.50’s on an 8” wide wheel before so not sure I’ll widen but maybe. That way if I need to run one long term I can.
Post by: stlaser on July 09, 2022, 10:05:52 PM
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Custom single piece 1480 rear aluminum drive shaft ($$$) good for 4000ft# of torque with pregreased and vacuum sealed slip shaft (lubes itself as it moves in and out) plus rebuilt 1350 cv front shaft
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 09, 2022, 10:39:47 PM
Post by: stlaser on July 09, 2022, 10:46:31 PM
Moshimoto intercooler in route to handle the added boost. I ordered 3” od steel pipe last week and need to get some of the turbo piping mocked up when that shows up.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 10, 2022, 11:22:57 AM
So whatcha think...Possibly up there with a SEMA quality build?
GLO at SEMA...dunno cats live with dogs these days, men kiss other men on TV, another man with Alzheimer's is president... I'd say if ever there was a time...
Post by: stlaser on July 10, 2022, 05:20:11 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on July 10, 2022, 05:48:23 PM
Thank you but not pretty enough for sema. Should definitely be functional though.So to that I say a leader sets his own style. Don't think about it in terms of pretty SEMA builds. THink about it in terms of what the everyman would like. Don't shy away from showing something that shows wear. SEMA is an idea...change their thinking
Just a thought
Post by: JR on July 10, 2022, 06:07:02 PM
Post by: EL TATE on July 11, 2022, 11:59:40 AM
Yes sir, designed by a female engineer at Bill's Englewood Driveshaft in Englewood, CO. Can’t say enough about them. Small shop with great customer service.
Moshimoto intercooler in route to handle the added boost. I ordered 3” od steel pipe last week and need to get some of the turbo piping mocked up when that shows up.
Is Shantell still there?
those are almost too pretty to put under that frummins
Post by: stlaser on July 15, 2022, 07:05:13 PM
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/da0f0158e3274172b2f90fe105ae3305.jpg)
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Post by: stlaser on July 15, 2022, 07:07:03 PM
Yes sir, designed by a female engineer at Bill's Englewood Driveshaft in Englewood, CO. Can’t say enough about them. Small shop with great customer service.
Moshimoto intercooler in route to handle the added boost. I ordered 3” od steel pipe last week and need to get some of the turbo piping mocked up when that shows up.
Is Shantell still there?
those are almost too pretty to put under that frummins
I only know Keith and Bill, I’m not sure what the gals name is…. Sorry
Post by: JR on July 15, 2022, 10:42:22 PM
Post by: stlaser on September 25, 2022, 10:02:28 AM
Not a lot in the way of updates. Too many life things going on to focus on this project and my buddies shop who built the motor has been slammed all year. I have come the conclusion had I went with a single turbo this truck would have been done months ago.
So recently we’ve had cab up and down a couple times fitting various things. Ran into several issues due to compounds eating up valuable space. First was the down pipe and transmission dipstick. Both wanted to live in same space on passenger side. The easy fix was to cut both ends of dipstick and connect each end with heater hose. Then routed it up to drivers side area, only issue in this was it took up several hours getting it the right length and mounts made.
Next issue is the power steering line. I spent all morning last Friday driving up and down front range to finally get directed to the guys in the card posted above. They were able to braze a new fitting onto the 180 degree hard line coming out of the hydroboost and then adapt that to a jic fitting and 90 degree M20 threaded male fitting going into power steering box. I’ll post pics of that Monday once I pick it up.
Next I will be having them lengthen the AC line going to the dryer from the pump to clear the compounds. More pics to come shortly.
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Post by: stlaser on September 26, 2022, 10:47:24 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220925/a89fcabe3e78006fca538b5f9cd65a64.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220927/80518990acc3d805af8e6cc9bb1cb079.jpg)
Not a lot in the way of updates. Too many life things going on to focus on this project and my buddies shop who built the motor has been slammed all year. I have come the conclusion had I went with a single turbo this truck would have been done months ago.
So recently we’ve had cab up and down a couple times fitting various things. Ran into several issues due to compounds eating up valuable space. First was the down pipe and transmission dipstick. Both wanted to live in same space on passenger side. The easy fix was to cut both ends of dipstick and connect each end with heater hose. Then routed it up to drivers side area, only issue in this was it took up several hours getting it the right length and mounts made.
Next issue is the power steering line. I spent all morning last Friday driving up and down front range to finally get directed to the guys in the card posted above. They were able to braze a new fitting onto the 180 degree hard line coming out of the hydroboost and then adapt that to a jic fitting and 90 degree M20 threaded male fitting going into power steering box. I’ll post pics of that Monday once I pick it up.
Next I will be having them lengthen the AC line going to the dryer from the pump to clear the compounds. More pics to come shortly.
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Tweaked the bend in this AC line roughly an inch lower then dropped it off at tubes and hoses so they could add 8” to overall length in order to snake it down under the air intake.
Dropped cab & checked fitment of the down pipe and it will work as is with plenty of clearance to firewall.
Picked up power steering line from tubes and hoses but forgot pics again. They do nice work.
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Post by: JR on September 27, 2022, 12:07:44 AM
Post by: stlaser on September 27, 2022, 07:06:21 PM
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Some new hoses, parts and pieces. Not pictured but I had to source new longer 18mm bolts and nuts from McMaster.com to work with the destroked motor mounts. You’d think they would include them.
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Post by: JR on September 27, 2022, 07:20:29 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on September 27, 2022, 10:23:43 PM
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Post by: stlaser on September 27, 2022, 11:13:35 PM
Any pictures with fiberglass front fenders yet?
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Nope, still sitting on a rack in my shop. Won’t worry about those until I get this truck buttoned up drivetrain wise.
Post by: Flyin6 on September 28, 2022, 10:18:46 AM
Post by: stlaser on September 28, 2022, 01:51:18 PM
This is going to be one of the best in the nation!
Thanks but highly doubtful, just an old shop truck with some better parts maybe. It’ll be a good truck for Montana I hope…..
Post by: Flyin6 on September 28, 2022, 04:29:35 PM
It will be a good truck anywhereThis is going to be one of the best in the nation!
Thanks but highly doubtful, just an old shop truck with some better parts maybe. It’ll be a good truck for Montana I hope…..
Post by: wyorunner on September 29, 2022, 02:11:57 AM
Too much power for the snow. Let me hold onto it for youThis is going to be one of the best in the nation!
Thanks but highly doubtful, just an old shop truck with some better parts maybe. It’ll be a good truck for Montana I hope…..
Post by: stlaser on December 16, 2022, 10:22:48 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221217/5741cd13ff87eb2550b25f1960cb8408.jpg)
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Grafted a v10 mechanical pedal actuator onto the 2010 6.4 drive by wire pedal so that the trans can read the tps but still actuate the mechanical p pump
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 17, 2022, 07:49:19 AM
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Post by: stlaser on December 19, 2022, 09:44:40 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221220/0cd9ce21b38731cbfb92f10ebd738fc2.jpg)
Had to cut the horn and rotate it to clear the oem coolant tank among other things
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Post by: stlaser on January 10, 2023, 09:05:22 PM
Down to building 2 intercooler pipes & upper rad hose…..
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Post by: Flyin6 on January 10, 2023, 09:18:48 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 10, 2023, 10:27:40 PM
Gonna run it? Sell it? Plow truck?
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Post by: dave945 on January 10, 2023, 11:03:47 PM
Then what?I heard a rumor he is going to decide it’s not quite right, and after buying and driving a Chevy Bolt EV for a while, he’s gonna get a Jeep. But that’s just a preposterous turn of events, so it has to be a rumor.
Gonna run it? Sell it? Plow truck?
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;)
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Post by: stlaser on January 10, 2023, 11:20:48 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on January 11, 2023, 09:53:07 AM
Gunna daily it up in MT, but this is just motor conversion. Lots of other small things to work out yet on this truck and I’m sure a couple bugs I haven’t yet realized.Whatever you end up doing with it, it's gonna be cool!
Post by: stlaser on March 02, 2023, 05:39:24 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 02, 2023, 07:44:03 PM
Post by: cj7ox on March 03, 2023, 10:37:24 AM
Post by: cj7ox on March 03, 2023, 10:38:04 AM
Post by: stlaser on March 03, 2023, 01:25:35 PM
I’ve already heard about the fender badges too. Although those get gone with the new fiberglass fenders….
Post by: Flyin6 on March 03, 2023, 04:37:41 PM
:likebutton:I think you just caved way too easy!
I’ve already heard about the fender badges too. Although those get gone with the new fiberglass fenders….
;-)
Post by: stlaser on March 03, 2023, 07:16:30 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 04, 2023, 09:13:52 AM
Post by: stlaser on April 02, 2023, 05:30:20 AM
Got the flatbed wired up, still need a 7 way plug and license plate light.
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Post by: stlaser on April 02, 2023, 06:45:48 AM
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on April 02, 2023, 07:11:13 AM
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Post by: stlaser on April 02, 2023, 08:32:50 AM
Is it drivable?
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Yes, have drove it but need to finish several things that would make it much nicer to drive.
-Rear brakes
-After market fenders so can turn fully and then fabricate inner front fenders
-Front lockouts
-Find out why it pukes ps fluid after I turn it off
-Break in gears in axles
-Trans tuning
-Reverse shackle flip rear axle
-Align front tires
-Hook up down pipe to oem rear exhaust (minus fed bs)
Picked up trailer connector and license plate light b4 church this morning.
Think that is complete punch list now ^^^^^^^
Post by: Flyin6 on April 02, 2023, 11:16:23 AM
Post by: JR on April 02, 2023, 01:01:58 PM
And your building at the same time!
Post by: stlaser on April 02, 2023, 06:48:10 PM
That thing looks beefy, like it is really well sorted...
It’s should be able to do some work, slowly getting closer to finish line.
Post by: stlaser on April 02, 2023, 06:58:27 PM
I was looking the PS emblem too, has to go.
And your building at the same time!
May have old building taken care of, we’ll see
Post by: stlaser on June 04, 2023, 10:47:34 AM
Borrowed my buddy JB’s trailer with drive over fenders and moved the truck to Montana this last Friday. Pretty sure the lower power steering line from reservoir is the leaking culprit. Trans tuning needs addressed. I’m also believing the afc live wasn’t correctly installed at diesel shop so will need to play with that as well. Many little pieces to dial in yet when I get time. Most likely this winter.
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