REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Vehicle Related Discussion => Topic started by: JR on September 30, 2022, 10:24:58 PM
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OK, here we go on another smaller project. I picked up a 2014 Tahoe, former BLM vehicle (the real BLM)
129k miles, just ready to click over the 130. No 3rd row, no center console (already found some) Oil and tranny fluid looked good.
5.3ltr Vortec, 6sp tranny, 2 keys/remotes with 8.6in rear, 7100 gvw. Almost new Nitto 33-75/17s on stock rims. Shakes a tad at speed so going to check the balance.
More picks to follow but here is the build sheet. It is a "special use LE" vehicle, thinking a 48 state. Already smogged and Reg in Kali now (for now)
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Searching the RPO codes it is 7300gvw, 3.42 rear, 6L80 tranny. Normal LEO stuff, HD cooling, skid plates, no DRL, HD towing.
Diablo Tuner should be here tomorrow to address the DOD and little things, but is has great oil pressure. Looking for Cold Air and exhaust now
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OK, cool! Let's get this thread going.
Going to be both useful and pertinent to today's discussion because so many of these trucks are still faithfully serving peeps all over the continent.
Oh, going to be interesting too knowing the JR... ;-)
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Ordered a bunch of stuff today. Cold air intake, mbrp cat back. Looking at running up to the recycler later for a couple trim pieces gone or broken.
Needs LED headlights, fogs and glancing at bumpers/guards for fun.
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So far I really like the GTR Ultra2 LEDs I put in the Bus
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So lots of parts on the way and here is a pic of it at home finally.
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Darn finger keeps doing that!!
Closer inspection it seems the front left has been repaired somewhat. Inner fender is missing and the seam between the door and fender is not!
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Air dam in front needs trimming along the bottom. Probably had another dam there which is gone, leaving sawtooth flange, ugly!
Drivers door pull is wasted too. You can buy the whole panel (like Don) but think I will try to open it up and see what I can do.
Was getting some good vibrations going down the road. No feedback from the steering wheel, so figure its off the rear tires. Find an open tire place on and have them check the back. Drivers was off by 6oz and the pass side was off by 12oz! Heading out for a test drive now.
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Added LED headlights tonight, wow!! cheapo's too, well still $60. Whoever designed the tahoe should have his neck ringed. What a chore!
Did the first Fluid change too, just the oil. Put a tall AC filter on, but don't think it took 8qts like it said.
Both front fenders have been trimmed, ordered the drivers, now for a pass, just $30. They kinda hold the front together and dam would fill with road crud fast without them being closed off.
Looks like fog light will go right in also, switch not there have to check for wiring next.
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The only thing important is the spotlight. Does it work?
Don't get me started on the amount of LE auction vehicles running around here. I've about worn my brakes out from seeing them
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Works great!! Daughter drove it, son wants to (14).
Got like 6 packages for it today. Just needs a little "tune", cold air and exhaust. Don't want a rocket.
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Somewhere i have a kit for some fog lights that has wiring, relays switch etc. if you want it
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Is it like OEM stuff? I already ordered a new switch that goes in the OEM spot.
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So doing the oil change, she is a little crusty underneath. Nothing a good cleaning and rust paint can't cure though.
When doing the LEDs I found both inner fenders had been trimmed away. Can you imagine the crud that would accumulate in there? Have LEDs for the backup lights too. I may add a 12in light bar under the 3rd brakelight for lighting the property up and the stupid cars that won't dim their brights (real issue coming home)
Tuned it with the Accel unit. Turned off the DOD, crisped up the shifts and raised shift torque levels (125%). Kept it on the 87 tuning though.
Mildly surprised how much better it felt. MBRP 3in exhaust came in, still waiting on the Volant Cold Air intake. These newer vehicle "learn" and curious what this ends up feeling like. Plus its to darn quiet!
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Somewhere i have a kit for some fog lights that has wiring, relays switch etc. if you want it
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Is it like OEM stuff? I already ordered a new switch that goes in the OEM spot.
It was a kit for the Honda that has wire loom , relays, etc. I’ll look this weekend and send you a photo. It’s yours if you can use it
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TRN, sure I can use it on something. I have so many light bars to put on, it will find a home! Anymore of that salsa around?
Also, looking at the build sheet I see no G80 code, but it does say 3:42. It has stabilitrac and anti skid so maybe its an open unit? That will need addressing for sure very soon with the weather coming. 3:42s are fine, cruses at 75mph at 1750rpm.
Wheh I had the back jacked up for the balance, it acted like a one legger. A G80 acts like that too, so probably just pull the cover, want Syn oil in there anyway.
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Picked up later model center console today, few hundred but seems to be the going price for the good ones. It was a local meet too, probably saved me $40 in fuel.
There were CC that were made for my tahoe, but they seemed to just be a cup holder and a jump seat. I wanted storage too!
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Unbolted the pass seat to get it in, tight but works. Needs a little trimming and some mods underneath to sit more or less flush. If I can get it 3-4 inches forward it will be just about right. The tabs and pins seem too be the real issues.
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After messing with this for an hour or so, it will not fit to my liking nor bolt to anything without all custom brackets. Buckling in was a chore too, just a hair too wide. Will loose some selling it, but that is how it goes sometimes to get what you want.
So I bit the bullet and got one from LKQ for the same price in A condition made for my year Tahoe. No jump seat but I'm good with that and it goes all the way under the dash making for good "storage" :wink:
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Did the CAI today, Volant. Hardest part was the GM connector on the engine vent.
Stock intakes are like a labyrinth, throttle body was filthy, and I cleaned the MAF sensor too. Hopefully get the the exhaust tomorrow. But its my youngest's 15th birthday.
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So today I put the exhaust on the Tahoe. Couple things I found was it probably had steps on it and has had some incident because it looks like aa Xmember is bent up some. Same as the front inner fenders, some tabs are ripped off. Nothing terrible.
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So really the hardest part was getting the old exhaust off. I cheated and cut it off at the old pipe just behind the flex joint and the axle bump as recommended. Also found a really good dent just behind the right cat before the Y. Say it cuts about 25% of the flow, may address that.
Instead of having to fight with the slip joint behind the Cat, they got smart and made it a ball joint now, even the clamp came off easy after a little soaking. There was a ground strap too, but its gone now.
As would be expected the new MBRP muffler was about 1/2 the size of the stock. Added a little never sieze to all the bolt, slid it all together, straightened and tightened it up then added the SS tip. Think a flat tip might look better though.
Sounds great, only loud when you get on it but seems quiet on the freeway so far. Still waiting for the ECM to learn the mods, idles a little high at first, but getting better.
I also painted most of the center of the frame, looks way better than the rust did. Still needs more TLC under there, but no rush.
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Looks just like the diesel truck exhaust. BTW, you can use the over-the-hump pipe and cut and slip it into the muffler outlet to get a great fitting, cool-looking side exhaust. That's how I did mine on the D-Max truck
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Thinking on options. Tuned again put injection cleaner in it. Mileage sucks right now in the 16-18 range freeway but mountains.
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Thinking on options. Tuned again put injection cleaner in it. Mileage sucks right now in the 16-18 range freeway but mountains.
It's all in the perspective
I'd kill for 16-18 with my suburban which gets 8-10
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Thats close to what the Dmax averages, but way easier to drive and less $$$ to fuel up. ($100 vs $250) It drives SO much better now. Downshifts on hills or unlocks the TC but these motors don't make any real HP/TG till way after 2500rpm. (getting used to gas again)
Plus I am really stock sans exhaust, intake and tune tweak. Think a cam is in the future too, probably a top end kit after reading up some.
Was getting a water stain by the pass door A pillar. Got up top and found a 1in hole wide open.
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Thats close to what the Dmax averages, but way easier to drive and less $$$ to fuel up. ($100 vs $250) It drives SO much better now. Downshifts on hills or unlocks the TC but these motors don't make any real HP/TG till way after 2500rpm. (getting used to gas again)
Plus I am really stock sans exhaust, intake and tune tweak. Think a cam is in the future too, probably a top end kit after reading up some.
Was getting a water stain by the pass door A pillar. Got up top and found a 1in hole wide open.
For your cam, read up on the specs of that Butt-Kicker (real name) cam I used once.
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I'll need it to be carb happy. Maybe not certified but non DOD stock !
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I think Vinci makes the grind in DOD or non-DOD
Mine is non-DOD
I thought it worked reasonably well
The truck was never fast, but it has had some torque. In retrospect, I should have just kept the smaller cam in the motor when I added in the blower. Could have just cranked up the boost.
But now that I have gone the supercharger route, and realized these LS motors don't make any low-end power even if you attach a dwarf star as a power adder, I would have turbocharged the truck instead.
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Ran up to LQK today and got the center console. Had already pulled the old one. New one used the seat bolts, simple.
Was dirtier than crud, just happen to have an old towel so I got it wet and went to work. Was so bad it had about 12 cents embeded in the gunk.
Needs a little tweaking and better cleaning. I do have the front trim panels for under the dash. Think they have a whole bunch of storage options for it too.
Missing the rear radio knobs is all and the wiring harness was cut. However, looking to see if the wires hanging from the dash match up?
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Ken, have a question for you or anyone who might know.
Coming off the throttle or even starting out it seems to go to about 1000rpm. Few seconds later it usually goes right back to 600 or so. Could it be the idle circut in the TB? I did clean it out well but didn't touch the idle soloniod. Peddle is not sticking as far as I can tell.
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Usually cleaning it causes high idle issues. Might have to retrain it. Start by unhooking the battery.
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/242952-throttle-re-learn-proceedure/&ved=2ahUKEwil65_bp-H6AhX6L0QIHVJbDbkQtwJ6BAguEAE&usg=AOvVaw1zQ38WCFn1_NU5pkoZwyuh
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Will try that but may pull it off first and clean good. I sprayed, whiped, cranked on the blades :embarrassed:
No codes and I ran a new scanner on it yesterday.
Tell you what, I really like the MBRP exhaust. Gotten several comments on it.
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Did the CAI today, Volant. Hardest part was the GM connector on the engine vent.
Stock intakes are like a labyrinth, throttle body was filthy, and I cleaned the MAF sensor too. Hopefully get the the exhaust tomorrow. But its my youngest's 15th birthday.
Where did you get this? Whoever had my suburban last just threw a cold air filter on and cut the air box to make it fit.
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Will try that but may pull it off first and clean good. I sprayed, whiped, cranked on the blades :embarrassed:
No codes and I ran a new scanner on it yesterday.
Tell you what, I really like the MBRP exhaust. Gotten several comments on it.
I wouldn't spray directly into the Tbody unless you want to buy a new one. Sounds like you did it right, just a good wiping with a wet rag.
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Not that simple here in Ca Jon. I bought a kit, those kits don't cut it here.
I did spray right into it, then just wiped it down good. Did the relearn, still think I need to drive a little more.
Finishing up a little tool kit, first aid and such for it.
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Scored a factory roof rack today at PnP for under $50. Have a few little pieces to get but in nice shape. Easiest part was just letting my youngest get on top to get it off.
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Besides the roof rack, I scored a set of gm 18s alloy wheels, but not sure yet. Just $150 for the set. If I do I would go down just a hair on size. No rubbing now but 12.5 wide seems overkill, maybe 11.5?
Pulling a blank at GM for the mounting hardware. Factory nutserts are rubber coated and I like the idea of that. Factory cross over bowed, may go with aftermarket as they come off and are flat, not very pricey either.
Put a stock air dam under the front too, just $50 and it looks better.
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These showed up today.
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Nice JR. Getting dangerously close to an oil change
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Well, guess I shouldn't be showing this either,
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Well, guess I shouldn't be showing this either,
Light bar, head unit, running board and what’s that other round thing?
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New for lights. Mine were plugged (well one was) with a factory insert.
Bar is for reverse er worklight, thats it! Have a curved one coming for the front, sent first one back.
Generic head unit with front/rear cameras.
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Looks way better with new headlights, air dam and fog lights. Still have to hook up the fogs. I have amber leds for them also winter driving. Understand they cut the snow better being a diff wavelength.
With the LEDs the new headlights are very nice, needed a little adjustment down and fine tuned this weekend running to the ridge.
Before and after pics.
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It does indeed
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X2
Big improvement
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Been driving the crud out of this thing. Have put 10k miles on it already.
Hoping new wires, plugs and a cleaned up throttle body helps. I don't drive nuts, but averaging under 15mpg sucks. Rides like a tank too. May go to 285/75-17 tires vs the 33/12.5-17 on it. Might help with mileage and feel not being a HD tire? 1in shorter and narrower and a rounded more. Pretty sure it needs rear shocks/coils too.
Fixed a leak in the back that was coming from the hinge (common issue). Covered the area with self leveling RV sealer. Was literary dripping, causing a puddle in the back, and we have had a little rain. (filled a 12in deep bucket twice now) Added a little bumper-bumper, just in case.
Last night it just quit on me. Was a little hard to start but thinking its the ign switch (tracing now). Clicked a couple time, then ran and stopped. Was showing over 14v on the dash when all it stopped.
I have jumped started the Dmax with it a couple times, but left it running. Understand this can be an issue now with all the elec. crap in em.
Battery was a little low, everything works, but nothing when you turn the key. Charged the battery (was 12v, now 12.4), same. Cleaned terminals, ground but still nada.
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What air pressure you running JR? My dually rode like crap. I started running 40 in front and 30 in all 4 in the rear and it helped. Downside was when I towed id have to air up but since I had on board air it wasn’t such a big deal.
Worse comes to worse they make an air ride strut kit for your Tahoe …..
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Just at 35 right now, always check. Had to get the rears rebalanced and found they were 6oz off.
Tires on it are the same we would run on our big trucks, cept just 33s.
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Guys I need some help here. I have a no crank/run issue. Was a little hard to start (keep running), then stopped in the drive through a few blocks from home. Got it towed home.
Battery is good, new ignition switch, will crank when jumped in the fuse box. Key turns everything on, but no crank, no antitheft light (watched lots of videos) but I am still thinking this might be it. Checked voltages everywhere, all are around 12.6v. Ignition relay clicks, nothing on the "crank" relay. Switched relays, same, all fuses good.
Any ideas??
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There’s a switch associated with the ignition switch.
Not sure if it’s at all related, but there is a “master” type switch.
Just a thought without thinking too hard.
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That is the switch I just replaced, took me a little to get it clocked right. Alarm went off once so I triggered something when I disconnected the battery a couple times.
There is an anti-theft ring around the ignition and I may have triggered that. Trying to find more info. Looking at high end scanners too, not even sure if my keys are fobs or not. I can check that in the AM at ACE, they do them.
Scanner I am looking into will do it all. Not real cheap but they will do keys and reset about anything. Got 4 vehicles I can use it on right now.
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Guys I need some help here. I have a no crank/run issue. Was a little hard to start (keep running), then stopped in the drive through a few blocks from home. Got it towed home.
Battery is good, new ignition switch, will crank when jumped in the fuse box. Key turns everything on, but no crank, no antitheft light (watched lots of videos) but I am still thinking this might be it. Checked voltages everywhere, all are around 12.6v. Ignition relay clicks, nothing on the "crank" relay. Switched relays, same, all fuses good.
Any ideas??
Well buy a nice new Ram 2500
Just jopking, it really sounds like security issue but I'm sure you have checked that you have fuel?
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That is the switch I just replaced, took me a little to get it clocked right. Alarm went off once so I triggered something when I disconnected the battery a couple times.
There is an anti-theft ring around the ignition and I may have triggered that. Trying to find more info. Looking at high end scanners too, not even sure if my keys are fobs or not. I can check that in the AM at ACE, they do them.
Scanner I am looking into will do it all. Not real cheap but they will do keys and reset about anything. Got 4 vehicles I can use it on right now.
Ok. Somewhere in the age of this they keys contained a chip.
You may be on to something with the security.
That’s where my help ends however.
Or non help as it may be.
May need to go to stealer but not sure what the high end scanners can do.
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Ive pulled every fuse, switched relays, etc, just no crank. Turns over fine when jumped.
Beginning to think its the ECM now. It was a little hard to start when this happened, then stalled, then quit again in the drive through.
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Is there a crappy aftermarket alarm under the dash?
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No alarm, have seen where they mess up everything.
I have a new ECM on order. I hate doing parts just to see if they fix something. With it shutting down twice while running I am leaning towards it.
I can jump from the CRANK fuse and it turns over, I hear the RUN relay click with the key, just no crank with key.
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Still waiting for the ECM, been a week now. Should have all the updates too, lifetime warranty. Warranty looks flaky, more to protect them really.
Anyway, yes I have run a scanner (should have earlier) and both the scanner and tuner say they can't communicate with ECM/TCM.
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Fingers crossed emoji...
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Most point to that now. I should have run a diagnostic right off,,,,,,,,,,
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I am stumped guys. Tying to avoid taking in but I may have to. New ECM does the same thing. If I had a good wiring diagram I could trace a few things but getting frustrated.
Everything lights up on dash, then goes out as normal. Not even a check engine light? Possibly the neutral switch or BCM? BCM usually has things working wonky, like no PRNDM light or indicator hash. Courtesy lights all work fine, doors, windows. All fuses are fine and it cranks when jumped across relay so maybe the neutral switch?
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Ouch
I think it's dealership time
Give them the anxiety attack, save yourself.
Fixed with a guarantee...
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Missing the check engine light is a red flag, along with no comms.
Can you communicate with other modules?.. like the TCM?
I'd put a wiring issue at a 95% chance.
Under hood fuse block at 4%
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I checked the nuetral switch, well tried, there is not one. Maybe internal like the allisons?
Grounded the battery leads, nothing. Checked the ABS plug, looks good, cleaned and dielectric it. 4 big power leads all checked off the battery. Cleaned one ground on the block, there are many more but I don't think its a ground issue. Doesn't do funny things, just doesn't start/crank. Still cranks fine jumping the relay, but not starting. Funny that all the lights work, horns, radio, windows, seats.
Pulled the main panel loose last night just to check out the underside. What I have found with my inner fender cut is the main plugs form the ECM are hanging in the open. They are next and I have new inner fenders to attach them to and protect like factory. Pic shows the plugs hanging loose, that is the left strut under it.
Thought I had posted this but nope.
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Didn't you say that you don't have comms with the pcm?
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Yep, looks like I have power/ground at the OBD2 port, but no comms. Tried 2 scanners and tuner.
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No luck, one last thing is maybe the nuetral/shifter interlock? I think that is in the switch I just replaced though?
For the record I cleaned, washed, and pasted every connection in the fuse block and that area. Grounds are good, battery all charged up. It was pretty dirty in there and a couple lower plugs too. All the plugs came out with the fuse box. They are supposed to snap in so after cleaning I used a drop of hot glue to hold them into their tabs.
Same thing and still no com with anything?
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Ken, tried to call to see if you had any ideas. Mailbox full,,,,,,,,
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Ken, tried to call to see if you had any ideas. Mailbox full,,,,,,,,
Secretary H must be too busy to answer the phone…..
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He got back, I forgot we are in the same time zone so it was business hours still. Couple ideas thrown out but not looking good.
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I forget JR, after you replaced the ignition switch, did you have it flashed to communicate to the key fob? dealer had to do mine in the Yukon.
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Thanks Tate, but not the issue.
The switch is not the anti-theft module that wraps around the tumbler. Plus I would be getting a "anti-theft" warning on the dash, it goes out.
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JR, is there a fusible link soldered into the wiring harness somewhere?
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Non that I see. There are 4 main pos wires coming off the battery though. 1 goes right to the big spade in the fuse panel, 1 into the cab, 1 to the starter. All of these have big fuses, all are good.
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Can't get it to anyplace until next week. 2 shops down the street Im looking at now.
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OK, just thinking of dumb stuff now, but have you pulled and cleaned ALL, that's ALL of the ground wire connections, everywhere?
That being said you might start checking the continuity of the wires themselves. About two years ago I had a wire pull apart beneath my seat on a John Deere tractor that killed it. It took wire chasing to find that one... One in a million, but with a good mechanic and some time you can track that down as well.
Dumb stuff, you have pulled and checked all associated fuses too, I'm guessing?
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All fuses, relays and several grounds, not all. Few more I can hit tomorrow since it will be here for a few days still.
Plus GM used these jumper boxes all over. Basically they place all the modules near what they do and have a "junction box" to splice the wires all over.
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OK, just thinking of dumb stuff now, but have you pulled and cleaned ALL, that's ALL of the ground wire connections, everywhere?
That being said you might start checking the continuity of the wires themselves. About two years ago I had a wire pull apart beneath my seat on a John Deere tractor that killed it. It took wire chasing to find that one... One in a million, but with a good mechanic and some time you can track that down as well.
Dumb stuff, you have pulled and checked all associated fuses too, I'm guessing?
I’m kind of with the boss man here.
I think now you’ve got a broken wire or bad connection.
Was running (all good) then sputtered (connection failing) now DIW.
I’m thinking you’ve got some wire checking.
Should be able to find schematics somewhere online. May cost but not like a shop could.
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Alldatadiy.com
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Thx TRN, good reference to find those loose wires.
Not getting anyplace really, took it to a local shop. Owner seemed cool, got many good reviews. Just a couple blocks from the house too.
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Well, first shop said they can't find what the issue is. I have not seen it move so I figure they just threw a scanner on it and its still non com.
Going to another shop that has a good rep for electronic issues, just happens to be other side of town.
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Dang, this thing is a real puzzle!
Hope you get it sorted, JR
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New shop is familiar with PPV Tahoe's and such. Quoted me 2 hours to diagnose and will get on it later this week hopefully.
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Already heard from the shop. They found some chafed/possibly broken wires just down from where I did the work on the fuse block. It does have coms now with those repaired, but they want to put a new fuse panel in. I said go ahead. 1k so far,,,,,,,,,
Some of the harness covers were rotting away, I plan on replacing those and doing the inner fenders to keep the crud out.
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Sounds like you are approaching a solution.
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Got it back friday afternoon. Just under 1k, but that included a new fuse block ($500 from GM)
Runs as it did, no issues. Kinda mad at myself for missing this, just 3-4 inches from where I was looking. It was on the inner fender just below the fuse box.
All the wires WILL be addressed with cloth wrap, then new split covering. I have new inner fenders too, maybe cut down the crud!
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It’s back up and running. I’d count that as a win.
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Oh its a win that cost 1k. I should have found it.
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Problem was you didn’t find it , and it was only a grand. It could have been at least twice that.
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Spent a few hours cleaning the back out. Fine dirt up to a 1/2 thick was under stuff, flipping nasty. All the spare tire stuff and a 4 way was just thrown in the cubby.
There were also 2 power lines and a ground all around 3ft just bouncing around in there too.
Won't get into the little stuff but way better. Then the drivers seat recline lever broke off on the way home from the Ridge.
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Added amber "excuse me" warning lights in the back. I get tired of tailgaters and high beam lights. Work great the couple times I have used em. I have no issue moving over, but not if I get screwed and your impatiant. High beams are a tick for me, people are stupid.
Few more changes coming soon, been neglecting it some.
These are a start; https://www.prioritytire.com/prinx-hicountry-r-t-hr1-lt-285-70r17-121-118q-e-10-ply-rt-rugged-terrain-tire
10lbs lighter, just a little shorter and 1 inch narrower. I have some slight rubbing issues and it rides like a tank.
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OK, so I scored these rims for a song. Pretty good shape. Tahoe is OK with the old wheels and tires. Rides like a tank, even my boy commented.
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Got the tires mounted up. New TPMS sensors, 6oz beads for balance.
Tire machine regulator went bad last time I used it, replacement was fairly easy cept I lost an airline into the guts and had to open it up to retrieve. After the first 2, it started acting up some. Would not grip the wheels (close). Think I got some oil into the valves, but a rag or 2 in the clamps got er done.
It drives much better. I think the overall weight and width means more than I thought. Tires sit just as wide, just 1 inch narrower.
I like how it looks too, but not sure on the chrome lugs, thinking black? Notice anything else?
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So far so good. Smoother and quieter on the road. Topped off the tank and it calced to 17mpg, best ever but time will tell. Running about 5psi more than the others since it is narrower.
Spent the afternoon with the youngest at Pick n pull. Got a lot for his truck and I found a seat trim piece for mine and a DIC switch that is supposed to be plug and play.
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Good solid cop car look you have going there...I like it
So, not seeing something else...
Window tint: same as before
Stance: About the same
Front air dam: Did you remove that?
Paint: Looks about the same
Stumper...
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Blacked out between the front windows (tint coming), factory option on some and I liked the look.
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Coming together very nicely
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Thx, nice not having the tpms warning on the dash anymore too.
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Pulled the dash panel, painted the new panel plugged in the NTM switch and I have full DIC options now. Paint is close and have to do.
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After I retorqued the wheels, I did some weight calculations.
Besides being 1 inch narrower, they are 44lbs lighter than the nitto combo and steel wheels, thats each wheel! 40psi seems about right, wear looks OK and all the little tits are still on the tires.
Balance feels good, guess the 6oz beads were about right. Haven't calced a full tank yet but with the DIC working it shows low 16 average which is 2-3 more than before.
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Also did new weatherstrip on the drivers door, little hard to close but better. More cleaning needed, it was a mess under there.
Averaged just over 18mpg for the trip. Even gas up in Reno is $5 a gallon, geeze. Thats 2-3 better than it was, more than worth it and looks like I sold the old set on FB.
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DIC is dead on so far at 17.9 MPG and used 19 gal. Calced out to the same, close enough for me.
Local gas is $5-6, but have seen high 6s. What are you guys paying?
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DIC is dead on so far at 17.9 MPG and used 19 gal. Calced out to the same, close enough for me.
Local gas is $5-6, but have seen high 6s. What are you guys paying?
Here in Oklahoma $3.49 for premium 100% gas. I just paid $3.22 for diesel
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Here in Oklahoma $3.49 for premium 100% gas. I just paid $3.22 for diesel
Yep, good ol Kali, ouch.
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NW MT
D $3.95
G $3.50
Both have been floating within 5 cents a gallon of those prices for a couple weeks
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NW MT
D $3.95
G $3.50
Both have been floating within 5 cents a gallon of those prices for a couple weeks
Kentucky is approximately the same. Costco fuel, of course, is about 50 cents a gallon cheaper.
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Costco here is the same as the stations and No diesel! Why be a member?
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Costco here is the same as the stations and No diesel! Why be a member?
Wow, not here. Costco is way cheaper than anywhere else, even Sam's Club. And it has diesel.
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Local Sams has Diesel, but not a member there now.
Folsom has Diesel and was cheaper last time I went there. Using a Maverick in west Sac that is about .50 cheaper, but still more than NV. In fact getting out of washoe county it goes down another 30-40 cents normally.
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Working in Augusta GA there is a walmart that has deisel at 3.45.
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Sold the old tires and rims, $600. Offsets the tire purchase and I have more room.
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Yippee!
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Looking good JR
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