make sure your driving is a regular as possible.Well, a funny thing happened on the way to the tuner
so..
lots of skinny pedal and very late and minimal braking!
can’t wait to see what this sucker makes after a couple hundred miles of drive data to retune off of
Can go hot wire the cooling fans just to keep he engine cooled down whilst you pull data for the new tune? I know it’s not optimal, but it would give you the opportunity to get more data for the tine.Rog
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$2200 I’ll take care of it
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Nope, the more problems the cheaper it getsI like that!
Another option Don
Let’s take the cab off of Cmax and swap the whole deal under the suburban. Win win.
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not to hi jack your thread, but there’s an 07 white burb with black leather, double captains chairs. with an LMM in it for sale around here for decent $$ (in my opinion)What's decent money???
Time to go edit the GJ thread, what’s the specs on that? My wife wants a GJ with 1tons via greatlakesnot to hi jack your thread, but there’s an 07 white burb with black leather, double captains chairs. with an LMM in it for sale around here for decent $$ (in my opinion)What's decent money???
The lady of the house is tired of the GJ and wants a Suburban
Edit: Thanks for the PM!
Time to go edit the GJ thread, what’s the specs on that? My wife wants a GJ with 1tons via greatlakesnot to hi jack your thread, but there’s an 07 white burb with black leather, double captains chairs. with an LMM in it for sale around here for decent $$ (in my opinion)What's decent money???
The lady of the house is tired of the GJ and wants a Suburban
Edit: Thanks for the PM!
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This is what you need Don
https://zzdiesel.com/rear-axle-flange-gasket-2001-2010-11-5-rear-axle?adgroup=pla-4576717153391623&campaign=360725089&device=c&keyword=&msclkid=643be84fd9151410f3b7b50080107c6d&utm_campaign=%2A%2ALP+Shop+-+Catch+All&utm_content=Shopping+Catch+All&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=4576717153391623
This is what you need DonWon't fit!
https://zzdiesel.com/rear-axle-flange-gasket-2001-2010-11-5-rear-axle?adgroup=pla-4576717153391623&campaign=360725089&device=c&keyword=&msclkid=643be84fd9151410f3b7b50080107c6d&utm_campaign=%2A%2ALP+Shop+-+Catch+All&utm_content=Shopping+Catch+All&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=4576717153391623
Nope, the more problems the cheaper it gets
Another option Don
Let’s take the cab off of Cmax and swap the whole deal under the suburban. Win win.
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3/4 inch is a real big difference depending on who ya ask lol
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3/4 inch is a real big difference depending on who ya ask lol^^^ And that right there is why you are scrutinized and beat about the head and shoulder area ,my bonehead friend! ;-)
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Keep in mind we are still crossing the stream, about mid stream I'd say, so draw no conclusions yet.
8 days from the last post Don. Whats the latest?Somewhere between the dead zone and the twilight zone
I’m sure that all the extra air with the heads and cam are throwing mixtures waaay off.Believe me, I don't want any additional accolades or additional Daves for that matter ;-)
Unless you want to become the king is unfinished projects, I suggest you get to it PDQ
Otherwise you’ll have knuckle head Dave’s offering to buy it for $1
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That's great, hopefully he feels your pain and gets you a turn ASAP.Hopefully
Everybody loves the Air Force when it’s time for the big booms!YES we do!
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Keep in mind we are still crossing the stream, about mid stream I'd say, so draw no conclusions yet.
NOOOOOOOoooooooo! Don't cross the streams! Bad stuff happens when you cross the streams!
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/vor-4gx218-150l/overview/Naw, I'm veto'ing the supercharger system
The next project being......the dmax tranny issue?Nope
So still in a rental?No
I am working through bugs now that it seems I'll be driving it anyday now. Have some stereo issues, dead speaker, annoying bass buzz and stuff like that
did this thing have a BOSE system in it originally by any chance?
If you want it done right....So true!
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What’s the latest?Tex, I was down to the last wire, but have been side tracked on a bunch of stuff, like an all day bible study with the bros. Man that was a deep dive.
Btw Don. I have the full set of factory shop manuals wiring diagrams etc if you need me to research something for you
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Just put the fans on a stand dedicated circuit and be done. Might solve the other issues.
All the stuff is just a challenge, glad the preranger is better though for sure!
Do a blower, not a turbo. Instant all the time power and no exhaust work!
Just put the fans on a stand dedicated circuit and be done. Might solve the other issues.
All the stuff is just a challenge, glad the preranger is better though for sure!
Do a blower, not a turbo. Instant all the time power and no exhaust work!
i tried the blower instead of turbo argument. fell on deaf (maybe aged is the correct term..?) ears. :grin:
What does he need a blower fer? Duramax engines already have a turbo.
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weather is better for camping now anyway.. :beercheers:Yes it is!
Sorry to hear Don. My 2001 always got about 12 mpg lifted and stock motor.
And remember boys. He has to have 2001-2002 wiring harness and FICM to make the conversion. Different comm protocol.
That’s an expensive proposition.
Perhaps pulling the motor and having someone check it over and tune it in a dyno would be a good route?
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Big Don
Here’s your next project
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-chevrolet-3500/
What axles do you think it has under it?
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What axles do you think it has under it?
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What axles do you think it has under it?
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Unless I am mistaken on the later year units it should have a 60/14 sm465/205 454
Don't think there is any way oil can drip from the booster.I beg to differ my Kali friend
Maybe something you lubed and its dripping, steering univ
What about your hokie park brake valve? Is that leaking?It's not hokie, nothing I build is hokie, my life is not hokie, the world is n......
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For sure the booster.Ken, I think you are on it...where I was thinking
Don, did you put stiffer valve springs in? Don't remember.
When he looked at the data, the fuel trims looked ok? Usually if there's an issue the fuel trims reflect it.
And, did you replace the O2 sensors?
For sure the booster.Ken, I think you are on it...where I was thinking
Don, did you put stiffer valve springs in? Don't remember.
When he looked at the data, the fuel trims looked ok? Usually if there's an issue the fuel trims reflect it.
And, did you replace the O2 sensors?
Valve train noise sounding like detonation to the knock sensors
Yes, double springs, moly pushrods, Z06 lifters
He mentioned spark knock, retarding timing, not getting into the fuel enrichment cycle.
O2 Sensors same old ones
That used to be a presidential solution...What about your hokie park brake valve? Is that leaking?It's not hokie, nothing I build is hokie, my life is not hokie, the world is n.....
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That is a beauty
I would be interested if I didn't already have mine
I am having a difficult time not picking up one of these:
Playing around with this thing a bit more.
I don't work on it all the time, I have plenty of other things to do, but from time to time I do continue messing with this truck
So, I pulled a good data log and sent that off to Justin at Black Bear Performance. We'll see what he finds out
Meanwhile, I noticed a rumble, almost a vibration that starts being noticable around 60mph and is obvious and making a humming sound at 70. I was thinking while driving in the rain yesterday that that it sure sounded like the front driveshaft was spinning. When I turned off the exit on a wet road I hit the gas some and it did not spin out. That got me thinking. It wouldn't spin out if it was in 4WD...
Today I climbed underneath it and discovered a couple things. Fitst, that new Fomoto oil drain valve is leaking through the threaded body (Its bad!). Secondly, there were drips of transmission fluid around the pan, so that needs addressing and, finally, the front driveshaft was not free spinning. So, yep, it is either in 4WD or the front axle uncoupler is not functioning.
Now that would account for a bunch of the lost performance, being in eternal 4WD with all its associated drag, but not for the total lack of power this vehicle seems to have.
So I continue, pressing ever onward toward eventual ...DURAMAX SWAP
Don, don’t listen to them. That 6.0 should run a lot better than you are describing. I say get the tune right, fully powered and running right so you are happy with it.Well, I sure am going to go down the road to getting it right. Currently is is almost there, to the point that I am driving it every day almost.
Then swap in a Duramax and donate the 6.0 to me for the Blazer swap. ;)
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Don I don’t think you need aftermarket. You just need the factory parts and they’ll plug right up.I'm going to start a new thread discussing D-Max conversion of this 2500
Easiest to find a same year model 2500hd with the duramax and buy a rollover or rear end collison
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Don I don’t think you need aftermarket. You just need the factory parts and they’ll plug right up.I'm going to start a new thread discussing D-Max conversion of this 2500
Easiest to find a same year model 2500hd with the duramax and buy a rollover or rear end collison
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And the answer to the fuel question?
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And the answer to the fuel question?That was after the second tank of 93, so I'm betting better than 91 octane in the tank at the time of the pull
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any way your TPS could be off/sending odd signals to ECM?If that was going on, I think Justin would have picked it up
Florence speedway in Walton has Sunoco racing fuel.That's crazy
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Understood Don. I just tend to follow a simple process of elimination based on the capabilities I have at hand....Good advice
There is the possibility of bad sensors or something else, so I would bump the octane to 105 or so just to data log and use that as process of elimination. If it still wont run right with 105 then you absolutely know there is an electronics problem of some kind or you have to investigate the valve springs a little further.
It’s a cheap way to start the process and requires no wrenching.
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Well if you hear valve train noise then so do the sensors.Still waiting to hear from Justin,
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Well if you hear valve train noise then so do the sensors.Still waiting to hear from Justin,
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But, I wonder how does one check those?
I thought I read somewhere that they could tune out the knock sensors or tone them down.These springs, dual springs were recommended by the cam grinder, so I'm pretty sure they are OK
Justin would know I would guess.
I would try the racing fuel and if its really not knocking but picking up the valve noise, you’ll know because it won’t run any better with the higher octane
Then
Maybe readjust the lash and see if that quiets them down and or replace with singles.
Singles should be good to 6k rpm easy.
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Well if you hear valve train noise then so do the sensors.
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These springs, dual springs were recommended by the cam grinder, so I'm pretty sure they are OKYeah and Adam Schiff has the county’s best interest at heart.
We have lots of local folks here, used to work with a nice guy who knew his stuff, not sure if he ever turned it into a business but he was a good employee at L3 with me.Ya, thinking...
Sent you a link in Facebook messenger. Might be worth a communication to see what his thoughts are
Emmerich LsX tuning
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There is a guy based out of Tampa, FL that does all kinds of tuning with LS engines. Has a pretty popular youtoob channel with a bunch of hijinks, but seems to know his stuff.Salt Lake Dave was proactive with providing a name, who he has reached out to.
He put a blower on his wife’s Escalade... then blew it up (sorta).
Fasterproms is the channel.
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Overtightened knock sensors will be oversensitive. Could try loosening them. That being said, you shouldn't be hearing your lifters.(all 16 making noise?) Something is wrong.Over tightened? I would hesitate to say affirmative to that, as I was very careful and do not overtighten things normally
You have 60psi + oil pressure revved up, 20+ at an idle?
Good to hear. I still think Ken is onto something. If you didn’t torque them on dry clean threads I’d start there. If they are a binary device then not sure how to tune them less sensitiveNot my lane, but we will soon see (I hope)
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Don, with all brotherly love, I’m saying this. Go find a shop with a dyno and tuner and let them sort it out all at once. The back and forth is killing your time and money. I’d still think long and hard about pulling the intake and reinstalling the knock sensors like Ken said as well.Tex, I can't find anyone really local with a dyno that i can get any good copy on.
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Don, I bet EFI can unlock that for you. \I think I am turning the corner to leaving EFI live and moving to HP Tuners.
The tuner owns the tunes, you own the device.
You can always come to Texas and stay at my place while they work on your truck. Jus saying. It’s like a camping trip. We can work with the pre rangers on shooting and moving. Who knows,maybe even Ash will come out of hidingThanks!
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You had better make a video of the dyno and keep the max out of the mall lots for hell sakes.Copy...Roger!
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Thanks Nick for intro'ing yourself.
Plan will be to get the Burb into your hands, hopefully this week, then write about the process. I'll video the dyno time, assuming there is some and document results.
All of this will be a baseline then in time, likely less than a year, modify the truck by turbocharging and start making some good usable towing power for the thing.
The best thing about this "reconnection" is how I think it will serve to unmask the tuning side of things which will point to the honest brokers like Nick that people like RedNeck were pushing me toward all along.
In case you needed a nudge, Don....these things do work REALLY well and bolt right onto your Suburban. All that torque is exactly what a truck needs.Stop it right now! ;-)
Don’t have an I told you so bone in my body
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I’m sold. When are you dropping off the check, Don?soon!
:P
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I think everyone but Don was in for the SC from day one.JR, I liked the SC idea, but first of all, I am bound by some code which I do not fully understand to automatically disagree with any of you for no particularly good reason! :facepalm: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:
Nick. I recommended supercharging a while back so I’m on the same page. However just for curiosities sake is there a mpg difference between the super and a set of small parallels twin turbos? Sized right, which is no small feat, there is very little lag in the spool. I do agree that there is much more complexity which leads to problems like you mentioned long term with leaks etc.
Just curious about mileage given some parasitic loss.
So, I just sent a message to two members who had expressed interest in the 6.0 motor.
I'll wait to see what their response is, then offer it publically.
But on the motor thing, I wanted to score the square port heads. With this 6.2 motor, those heads are already there. the send out to port and fix up, finishes that.
The short block is something I have been thinking about. So, I will be starting with a motor with 100K on the rotating assembly. I am asking myself if that makes sense. From what I have read, some people say that although the rods are better in the gen 4 motor, the pistons may be the weak link.
So that begs the question, should I upgrade the pistons to some forged units??? And if I am tearing down to do that, obviously, I would be replacing the bearings. If I had the motor torn down that far, then cam bearings should be replaced as well, I think
Now if I am going through all that business, why not drop a stroker kit in the bottom end which already has the pistons/rings, bearings, a nice forged crank and super strong rods? But not that I am there, I am adding a bunch of cost to the project and did that tip the scales too far and cause me to just stay with the cleaned up 100K short block???
And to further complicate things, why not just tear down and restroke the 6.0 block? It's iron and stronger than the 6.2 aluminum block...?!?!And if I went this direction, all I'd have to do is to purchase a ready made set of LS3 heads and be done with it.
I am presently stuck in this loop...
Lets discuss the merits of going further in the short block.
Question sure you asked, but why port the heads with a blower?
Doesn't really help low end at all and higher up your on boost?
I'd just get another iron block. Less down time and cheap.
Don you still plan on having Nick tune what you have to get it running correctly before you decide on the rest of the project direction?Yes.
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I could, BTW, always throw a Texas Speed 408" short block in there later on...
Nick. Not to junk up Dons thread but I have a 2018 denali with the 6.2. What’s the recipe for more hp?
Well?Well, I put it all back together together.
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brake booster aside don, did you let nick get a hold of it yet and get it straightened out?!
I’m a dual fuel machine too. Red meat or whiskey....Keepin it simple...I like it!
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He said 450. I want to see that.We've been talking about it some. Possible but spendy. 408" is cheap, 427 and beyond i need that beefy LSX block. But I intend this Suburban to be a technology leader and a lead the fleet, example of the larger overlander
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Who would be driving with this mileage increase? Assuming your better half..... :popcorn:No, she has never driven it, prob never will
What happened to them stickers you were gung-ho about?Got em in and they were buggered up. Like stuck to the tape, worthless!
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Are those 35s?yessir
don, can you get a 3 dimension measurement of the fuel tank in the burb? i think the inside width is the 3+3 frame is right around 28”. plus with a large single piece drive shaft (4” or so..?) that puts me at a max workable width of <12”. not sure i’ll be able to find one that narrow.. but i’m going to shop around and see what i come up with hahYou want me to measure the size of the rear fuel tank in my 2002 2500 Burb?
I sure like the 4.56 with 35s, hope I don't loose much with 37s, but you have those and like em too.
I sure like the 4.56 with 35s, hope I don't loose much with 37s, but you have those and like em too.
Looking at the pics I think it would look better on 37sLooks obviously aren't what I am after, but the 37" tire question is not off the table at this point. And one of the reasons happen to be those inexpensive Federal Couragia tires I purchased for my D-Max truck. Now with some miles on them they are still showing to be really great tires. How these folks sell them for $240 each and they handle better than the $400 tires is a mystery. I cannot give high marks to the BFG mud terrain tires, or the Toyo open country offerings as well. No tire I have had is any better than these Federals and with the lower cost than another gear swap, the tire option, lowering my RPM into usable ranges is tempting.
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Did you ever hear anything back from the black bear company? Anything after your last email to them about lack of customer service?Sure did,
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Lots of nice parts,,,, :likebutton: Are you there to help?
Nope, not this time. As the Texas red neck said, I'm just here to write the checks
Those screw comp are supposed to be smooth and produce less heat.
Dunno. I can say it sure looks potent and well built. Nick was saying on a lifted truck and the gears driving it under boost was going to get pretty sporty. I suspect it will run a little better than it does right now
So he can actually tune on the dyno, not just mail you a tune months later?
Yes. This time will be the real deal. He makes a change and evaluates how it responds on the dyno.
Will you have dial a tune for diff fuel or uses? Makes sense with towing, cruising or tackling mulch beds.
Just the MBT (Mulch bed tune) That should cover the most likely hazardous situation I'll ever encounter!
:beercheers:Almost forgot there was a build going on. What’s the ETA on delivery?
:beercheers:Almost forgot that this build is still going on. What’s the ETA on delivery?
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:beercheers:Almost forgot there was a build going on. What’s the ETA on delivery? Soft...couple of weeks
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Personally, that lowered hotrod is hideous. Now, having said that, it is artfully created. Owned by a local artist, it is a rolling statement to true talent and is sitting on a great chassis and suspension.
I guess the Friday plan got pushed back. I have ONE quick connect fuel line fitting that was scheduled for delivery Friday and changed to Monday. Ain't that how it always goes? Thanks FedEx!
I guess the Friday plan got pushed back. I have ONE quick connect fuel line fitting that was scheduled for delivery Friday and changed to Monday. Ain't that how it always goes? Thanks FedEx!I'd consider that pretty good considering having that old man leaning over your shoulder all week.
I’m drooling over the 68 Camero69
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I'll take some detail shots of it next time I'm there. Things like the hammered copper floor, spider web intake, and other things give it that oddball appealPersonally, that lowered hotrod is hideous. Now, having said that, it is artfully created. Owned by a local artist, it is a rolling statement to true talent and is sitting on a great chassis and suspension.
I'm not a fan of the rat-rod hype either Don, but it does look really well put together that being said.
And I need to make a correction.
I thought the fuel pump thing was done, but apparently not, so I stand corrected.
Battery: It is only maybe two months old if that. Something is draining it, perhaps that new amp or sub woofer I wired in. Not sure if those things stay on or cycle with the ignition switch. The old battery, which was new too, would die in just a few days, and I replaced it, but now the same sort of thing seems to point to some sort of small load constantly draining the battery...
And I need to make a correction.
I thought the fuel pump thing was done, but apparently not, so I stand corrected.
Battery: It is only maybe two months old if that. Something is draining it, perhaps that new amp or sub woofer I wired in. Not sure if those things stay on or cycle with the ignition switch. The old battery, which was new too, would die in just a few days, and I replaced it, but now the same sort of thing seems to point to some sort of small load constantly draining the battery...
I had the battery on charger all night and it's showing a full charge, but no power anywhere. I'm leaning toward one of your main fuses or relay up front.
Nick,
take a look at the air ride suspension fuse if it has one. if it's been deleted and the fuse is still in the block it'll pull when the level sensor engages, thinking it needs to engage the compressor, or lack thereof. When I went through my engine swap on the 04 I chased battery draw for a solid week until I discovered that little gem.
Also, if this had the factory Bose system, that amp is relatively complicated and linked in with the main GPS and other systems than just sound. could just be tied into something that's not keyed power. just my $0.02
Don’t forget the wooden fuse block distribution blockIf wood works for welding tables, it'll work for fuses and other hot things 8-0
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Well if it’s been a proven method I guess we can look past it ;)Well, if all goes as planned we are pulling pitch from here the last of May and will see South Dakota, Wyoming, and likely Utah probably late the second week in June I'd guess.
Looking forward to an excuse to go back to Moab this summer. Let’s all make it happen
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close,,,,,,,,,:-)
Do you think it's been in 4wd this whole time? Maybe that's one (smaller) factor that was causing it to be doggie?
Do you think it's been in 4wd this whole time? Maybe that's one (smaller) factor that was causing it to be doggie?Yes, I do think it has been in 4WD the whole time
That’s a pretty flat torque curve.We noticed!
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nothing quite like some forced induction.Not for a little while
so when do you get to do some seat dyno runs??
I want that in my K5, but I guess I need to drop an LS engine in it first.Nick has a couple gathering dust in his shop. Nice 6.2 sitting behind his daytona
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Maybe I need to stop down and say hi. ;). It’s the neighborly thing to do, helping a fellow real man to clean out the excess engines in his shop.
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Probably something simple Don, like the motor encoder. If you did something terribly wrong it would've grenaded by now.
Probably something simple Don, like the motor encoder. If you did something terribly wrong it would've grenaded by now.Yea, probably so
Schools just closed here in Kintuckee as well. Likely for the rest of this school year.
The burb was taken to the transmission shop. We confirmed it is stuck in 4wd, so I probably cooked something inside the thing or assembled it incorrectly, dunno.
But the time to fret with this thing is past. Again, I'll leave it to the pros. They will get to it next week I am told
Probably something simple Don, like the motor encoder. If you did something terribly wrong it would've grenaded by now.Ken/Tate
likely it was in 4hi when the motor was removed:Took you long enough^^^
The shift motor should be removed from the transfer case in the 2Hi position. If for some reason it was not possible to shift the transfer case to 2Hi before removing the motor you can adjust the alignment of the motor by unlocking the shift motor to align it to the transfer case. Use a 9 volt battery and attach the positive side of the battery to the orange lead on the motor and the negative side to the tan lead. You should then hear a click from the motor and be able to turn the shift shaft on the motor. Be careful not to turn the shaft very far or you may cause internal damage to the motor.
Leave the man alone, he was ordering me parts lollikely it was in 4hi when the motor was removed:Took you long enough^^^
The shift motor should be removed from the transfer case in the 2Hi position. If for some reason it was not possible to shift the transfer case to 2Hi before removing the motor you can adjust the alignment of the motor by unlocking the shift motor to align it to the transfer case. Use a 9 volt battery and attach the positive side of the battery to the orange lead on the motor and the negative side to the tan lead. You should then hear a click from the motor and be able to turn the shift shaft on the motor. Be careful not to turn the shaft very far or you may cause internal damage to the motor.
I didn't think the 3/4 tons had a 246, but I also recall Tate correcting me on this build. A np246 has clutches.I asked him about clocking the motor, but he said that he thought they just bolted in in a fixed position. In any event, I don't think I removed that during my quickie rebuild.
Interesting they went straight to that theory instead of the motor/electrical.
This is the latest and greatest Don:First of all, Dave I assume you are kidding...Nuff said
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/
Sell it Don.
Get one of these. Apparently made in the same neighborhood as The Hippy lives in
https://earthroamer.com/lti-2/
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Did you see a price tag on that tex?I did. They are obviously smoking the local whacky tobaccy. That’s 500k to drop a camper on the back of a Furd
$600k-7^
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Sell it Don.Disapproved
Get one of these. Apparently made in the same neighborhood as The Hippy lives in
https://earthroamer.com/lti-2/
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Unfortunately, for $700,000, it wouldn’t even fit half the family. Guess I’ll have to spend $700k and get a school bus retrofitted for 4wd and defensive capabilities.Sell it Don.Disapproved
Get one of these. Apparently made in the same neighborhood as The Hippy lives in
https://earthroamer.com/lti-2/
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Apply later for final disapproval!
Look at the departure angle on that thing...what 3 degrees???
Like it though. but the $650,000-$700,000 is a bit much
OK, word from John this morning.
He owns SS Transmissions in Alexandria, KY.
HE said that the transfer case was assembled correctly, and that it is staying locked in 4WD
I am thinking it always was, as in even when I purchased it. He said the insides were perfect and the clutches looked like new.
He did find a C-Clip "Wavy-spring" thing that he suspects may have settled some. If it were working, then the clutch pack would remain forced out of the "cogs" in the case and the thing would spin freely (2WD)
But it is allowing the clutch drum to just settle into the case keeping the whole thing engaged in 4WD. So hunt is on for another wavy-spring-C-Clip.
Anyone ever heard of such a thing in a NP246 case?
4L80EOK, word from John this morning.
He owns SS Transmissions in Alexandria, KY.
HE said that the transfer case was assembled correctly, and that it is staying locked in 4WD
I am thinking it always was, as in even when I purchased it. He said the insides were perfect and the clutches looked like new.
He did find a C-Clip "Wavy-spring" thing that he suspects may have settled some. If it were working, then the clutch pack would remain forced out of the "cogs" in the case and the thing would spin freely (2WD)
But it is allowing the clutch drum to just settle into the case keeping the whole thing engaged in 4WD. So hunt is on for another wavy-spring-C-Clip.
Anyone ever heard of such a thing in a NP246 case?
4l60 or 4l80 trans on this pig? find the image that matches your description and I'll see if I have it or where you can get it.
This part matches Don’s technical description:4L80EOK, word from John this morning.
He owns SS Transmissions in Alexandria, KY.
HE said that the transfer case was assembled correctly, and that it is staying locked in 4WD
I am thinking it always was, as in even when I purchased it. He said the insides were perfect and the clutches looked like new.
He did find a C-Clip "Wavy-spring" thing that he suspects may have settled some. If it were working, then the clutch pack would remain forced out of the "cogs" in the case and the thing would spin freely (2WD)
But it is allowing the clutch drum to just settle into the case keeping the whole thing engaged in 4WD. So hunt is on for another wavy-spring-C-Clip.
Anyone ever heard of such a thing in a NP246 case?
4l60 or 4l80 trans on this pig? find the image that matches your description and I'll see if I have it or where you can get it.
But
Not a transmission part, a transfer case wavy clip thing-ah-ma-gig
Item # Description Application Notes GM Part# ZBAG Part#Danke'
21. Pressure plate wavy apply spring 1998-2005 12474071 27746
Tate had the tcase diagram...he just wanted to know what transmission it had to verify transfer case. #21 in his diagram.4L80EOK, word from John this morning.
He owns SS Transmissions in Alexandria, KY.
HE said that the transfer case was assembled correctly, and that it is staying locked in 4WD
I am thinking it always was, as in even when I purchased it. He said the insides were perfect and the clutches looked like new.
He did find a C-Clip "Wavy-spring" thing that he suspects may have settled some. If it were working, then the clutch pack would remain forced out of the "cogs" in the case and the thing would spin freely (2WD)
But it is allowing the clutch drum to just settle into the case keeping the whole thing engaged in 4WD. So hunt is on for another wavy-spring-C-Clip.
Anyone ever heard of such a thing in a NP246 case?
4l60 or 4l80 trans on this pig? find the image that matches your description and I'll see if I have it or where you can get it.
But
Not a transmission part, a transfer case wavy clip thing-ah-ma-gig
Tate had the tcase diagram...he just wanted to know what transmission it had to verify transfer case. #21 in his diagram.4L80EOK, word from John this morning.
He owns SS Transmissions in Alexandria, KY.
HE said that the transfer case was assembled correctly, and that it is staying locked in 4WD
I am thinking it always was, as in even when I purchased it. He said the insides were perfect and the clutches looked like new.
He did find a C-Clip "Wavy-spring" thing that he suspects may have settled some. If it were working, then the clutch pack would remain forced out of the "cogs" in the case and the thing would spin freely (2WD)
But it is allowing the clutch drum to just settle into the case keeping the whole thing engaged in 4WD. So hunt is on for another wavy-spring-C-Clip.
Anyone ever heard of such a thing in a NP246 case?
4l60 or 4l80 trans on this pig? find the image that matches your description and I'll see if I have it or where you can get it.
But
Not a transmission part, a transfer case wavy clip thing-ah-ma-gig
So this is your block and lower parts from original motor, he just added upper Harward? RightDid you type Harward on purpose?
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I installed some upper Harward on the blazer, but I had to remove it. In a very short time I ran over three cameras, two chainsaws and almost finished a project.
;)
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I installed some upper Harward on the blazer, but I had to remove it. In a very short time I ran over three cameras, two chainsaws and almost finished a project.Ohhh boyyyy
;)
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Have you ever experienced the feeling of being rejected?THIS JUST IN! EXTENSIVE INVESTIGATION HAS DETERMINED THAT AN INDIVIDUAL NAMED "HARWARD" IS RESPONSIBLE FOR SABOTAGING ALL "BIG D'S" FAILED PROJECTS BY INSERTING GRAND IDEAS, POOR DESIGNS, OR DEVASTATING GREMLINS. "HARWARD" HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AS AT FAULT ON THE FOLLOWING PROJECTS: SQUARE D, TAC-TOPPER, AND MULTIPLE HEAVY EQUIPMENT FAILURES BOTH AT THE HOME SHOP AND THE HIDE SITE.
:evil:
I probably won’t be able to make it this year. I’m pretty sure My wife would shoot me if I tried to leave for too long without taking the kids with me. BUT...if the .gov sends out some more handout checks, I could pick up a Quigley van and then I’d be right there with you.I don’t have that many kids but I would have a heck of a time building an adventure van. The 4x4 powerstroke platform big enough to give the burb a run for its money
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Have you ever experienced the feeling of being rejected?
or fired?
Or banned?
or socially isolated, Real Man style?
Option number last involves a halo to a spot in the pacific 62 miles north of nowhere
where
the concentration of sharks has been verified
If you haven't been fired, it probably means you have been playin' it safe. Warriors do not play it safe, so you should have been fired on occasion. I know I was and rather spectacularly on a couple of occasions! Why, I remember when I was flying with the Marines, this Colonel who didn't like Armee pilots decided he didn't like me. Or maybe he did and his way of showing affection was to stand me at attention and rip my butt off, top gun style in front of all the Marine aviators.Have you ever experienced the feeling of being rejected?
or fired?
Or banned?
or socially isolated, Real Man style?
Option number last involves a halo to a spot in the pacific 62 miles north of nowhere
where
the concentration of sharks has been verified
It has been a while. Figured I was due for a firing! LOL!
If you haven't been fired, it probably means you have been playin' it safe. Warriors do not play it safe, so you should have been fired on occasion. I know I was and rather spectacularly on a couple of occasions! Why, I remember when I was flying with the Marines, this Colonel who didn't like Armee pilots decided he didn't like me. Or maybe he did and his way of showing affection was to stand me at attention and rip my butt off, top gun style in front of all the Marine aviators.
Oh! My bad. If you've been fired already, then you may benefit from a refresher! ;-))If you haven't been fired, it probably means you have been playin' it safe. Warriors do not play it safe, so you should have been fired on occasion. I know I was and rather spectacularly on a couple of occasions! Why, I remember when I was flying with the Marines, this Colonel who didn't like Armee pilots decided he didn't like me. Or maybe he did and his way of showing affection was to stand me at attention and rip my butt off, top gun style in front of all the Marine aviators.
You fired me several times in the past. Then I went into ninja stealth mode for a bit. ;-)
Just start in stealth mode and snipe at targets of opportunity. Sometimes you have to make the opportunity.Ken and Shawn do that all the time!
So this thread has become the DOT comic section! Nice to see it has made something of itself. Clearly the burb is still trying to figure out if it wants to operate at full capacity or not....So Sad...
Just start in stealth mode and snipe at targets of opportunity. Sometimes you have to make the opportunity.Ken and Shawn do that all the time!
When progress is away the Dots will play?
The million dollar invoice on the way lolI'm not happy with all these punch-out items, but looking at it objectively, I have the ball on the three yard line, second down, 14 seconds on the clock and I'm down by one. I get the ball into the end zone and I'll have one of the most unique, truly off road capable, real deal Suburbans in this nation.
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Dave, for the love of Pete do not bring up that old Dodge right now....... fair warning!What old dodge? I know a few of us who have fully operating old dodges. Must not be those your thinking of.
Dave, for the love of Pete do not bring up that old Dodge right now....... fair warning!What old dodge? I know a few of us who have fully operating old dodges. Must not be those your thinking of.
Do I sense a disturbance in the Dodge or is that a firing I feel?I'd say your senses are acutely accurate!
:popcorn:
“Fully” assembled?Dave, for the love of Pete do not bring up that old Dodge right now....... fair warning!What old dodge? I know a few of us who have fully operating old dodges. Must not be those your thinking of.
What is your definition of “fully”?
“Fully” assembled?Dave, for the love of Pete do not bring up that old Dodge right now....... fair warning!What old dodge? I know a few of us who have fully operating old dodges. Must not be those your thinking of.
What is your definition of “fully”?
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This!!! Or simply put, can be used as a daily driver.“Fully” assembled?Dave, for the love of Pete do not bring up that old Dodge right now....... fair warning!What old dodge? I know a few of us who have fully operating old dodges. Must not be those your thinking of.
What is your definition of “fully”?
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I think in this context, it means moves under its own power down the road, and reliably gets the driver where he/she needs to go. :wink:
Dang. The burb has the COVID virus
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i love the way a supercharger sounds and feels. drove my terminator the other day (mostly stock with a few goodies..) and it’s just immediate but smooth power. and you can’t beat the sound. a SC burb on 35s cruising down the highway or making a rolling 25 MPH pull will really take people by surpriseFrom a 25 mph roll it will break the tires free (I am told) ;-)
Send one of them rangers out to video a full pull up the driveway. No smoking tires I wouldn’t pay the billi love the way a supercharger sounds and feels. drove my terminator the other day (mostly stock with a few goodies..) and it’s just immediate but smooth power. and you can’t beat the sound. a SC burb on 35s cruising down the highway or making a rolling 25 MPH pull will really take people by surpriseFrom a 25 mph roll it will break the tires free (I am told) ;-)
Will it break all four tires free?In first gear, I imagine it would. It got quite a bit more powerful. Like before it had a wheezing pinto 4-cyl. Now it has a pair of 454's, or maybe three of em. Its very powerful.
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Took me a few days, but I caught up on this. Looks great!Concur!
Your tuning escapades reminded me of my first experience with Kory on my LMM. Such a helpless, frustrating feeling when you’re waiting on somebody else for something only they can fix, and they don’t really care.
Glad you were able to reconnect with Nick, and get things on the right track!
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That said, working with Rob Coddens when he was able to tune was great.Took me a few days, but I caught up on this. Looks great!Concur!
Your tuning escapades reminded me of my first experience with Kory on my LMM. Such a helpless, frustrating feeling when you’re waiting on somebody else for something only they can fix, and they don’t really care.
Glad you were able to reconnect with Nick, and get things on the right track!
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Mail order tuning is a fail, and I will not promote it nor recommend it.
Nick is currently sorting our a strange transmission behavior
Someday, I'll get all the issues solved.
Sounds like my BDM module. First the lights flickered, then gone.Yea, this summer trip WILL happen
Maybe summer trip will happen?
Without pictographic/video evidence, I believe your claims of completeness are spurious. Proof, sir! We need proof! ;-)
Good to hear and congratulations to all that helped this project along. Just no oil changes any time soonHear-hear!
I’m going to start the chant I hear in the back of my head. It goes something like this: Dur-a-burb.....Dur-a-burb..... Dur-a-burb.....Dur-a-burb...... Dur-a-burb.....Dur-a-burb........DURABURB!!!!!!!!This is where it needs to go.... but only after he gets home from this first trip. Even if he wrote a check, I don’t think they could get a duramax in it in time for June trip.
I’m not a nice guy at times.
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Its a fun truck as it is, but that duraburb went by me like it was idling.
I think I probably should take the leap to diesel it out with a nice ally
But after the trip
And now I need to start the process of talking myself out of doing it!
Cummins swap it, 6.7 and allyThat would be sacrilege.
Don't worry, that won't be happenin'Cummins swap it, 6.7 and allyThat would be sacrilege.
Okey dokeIts a fun truck as it is, but that duraburb went by me like it was idling.
I think I probably should take the leap to diesel it out with a nice ally
But after the trip
And now I need to start the process of talking myself out of doing it!
i’ll take the 6.0 when it’s pulled..
Funny, you built a wood water tank for the trailer and it leaks someplace.Maybe some woodtrons got mixed in with the electrons, then some termites went in and disrupted things...Could happen...
You built a wood base power system for the burb and issues are showing up.
Actually cept for the drain issue, seems simple.
My burbs batteries showed 100% on one charger and DOA on another. Been cycling and trickle charging em and seems they are doing OK now (little low on water too) Showing 12.4 normally and holding high 11's under a load check. Few more days to tell is I need new batteries
.
So, big D, what caused your belt to lose a couple ribs? Sounds like you may have a pulley out of alignment.I looked at that and everything looks normal. in alignment. I spun the motor up once, the first time just before I noticed it. I really don't know, but maybe all the wrenching and fitting around that belt could have cut it in some way...(reaching here), who knows. Nick did say that sometimes these superchargers will toss a belt and he suggested I carry a spare. I ordered two which will come in today. And I will likely not spin the motor up again, just no need to do so with a heavy burb.
in my logic
So whats the final verdict of the burb, the problems and thoughts of the job nick did?Nick and Preston did good, proud of them.
So you ended up taking the dmax on your vaca instead of the burb?Wife's 4-runner
How did the 4runner do pulling the camper?Ouch
How did the 4runner do pulling the camper?We did not take the camper, just we peeps. I do not think that that 4-runner could pull a sick boy off a pee pot!
Remember last week when you were talking about excess stuff, and time?1- The check is obscenely large
Send the burb off and write the check. Save you the time, use it where it’s more valuable.
All valid points, but even at 20k, you’ll still be well ahead of a new burb. And recoup a little on the sale of the existing guzzler that’s in there.Remember last week when you were talking about excess stuff, and time?1- The check is obscenely large
Send the burb off and write the check. Save you the time, use it where it’s more valuable.
2- That's just for the stock conversion
3- I really don't trust the work of too many folks
4- For the 20K I spend on labor, imagine what kind of motor and trans I can piece together
5- I won't learn anything if someone else does it
Sweet, a hot rod duramax build. "fluid change" on steroids!I'll have that done locally
Funny, I keep bouncing around with the sub on motor work. Need it to run good for now but that 6bt is sitting there to. Not like I have anything else going.
Are you going to rebuild the tranny or just get built unit?
Now theres an idea that doesn't break the bank. Not cheap, but doable.I purchased a generic fan controller. That kit supplied by LS1 Trucks just does not work. Over and over it just keeps popping the circuit breakers.
Now, what about the overheating issue?
Maybe he can light the mulch on fire first,,,,,,,,,,,Did that for sure
Don did you get it dynoed to see where the tq curve is? Gear selection when towing is as much about keeping the tq in the right spot as anything. I’d start there and see if you can alter the ratio to lower rpms and put it in the fat part of the curve at 70mphSure did. Went over 500 RWTQ at just north of 2500 and stayed there until 5600.
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Just think, you will be the best friend of every oil company. Yep, just don't throw $$$ at it, make it the best it can be. I don't see a bigger short block doing that.Copy that!
Yes, weight AND drag are the biggest mileage killers. Load it up when traveling, lean it out around town. I don't do that, all my spares and tools are in the back. (which needs a good cleaning!)
My calculations are that with 37s, 4.88s and a .75 final drive you are 2562 at 75mph which is right at max torque for your motor.I'm gonna live with it, that is after another round of mods which will include a freshened 4L80, billet converter, different supercharger pulley, new throttle body, maybe another cam change, but likely not until the bigger short block, and some dyno time.
If you want lower rpms and still pull a lot of weight. Gotta go diesel.
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Think I am going to add a solar panel to my truck. Just like a tender, but no plugging it in!I have a small 5W solar panel mounted on top of the dash in the D-Max truck. Keeps things nice and topped off
I got a 12v fridge that keeps shutting off, truck starts fine though.
Don, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?
Yup the stepper motor is the little motor behind the needle that moves it up/down. Lots of people out there that can rebuild those clusters in their sleep for not too bad a price either. I think you’ve got a good plan goin. :thumbDon, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?
I have long suspected it
When Nick was tuning the truck, he noted that within minutes the gage marched right up to 210 and stayed there no matter what. He checked it against ECM coolant temp and found it to be way off.
I think I may just install a mechanical gage, and rely on the digital fan controller until then, then during the winter send the cluster off for a rebuild while I install that new 427...
Definitely get that gauge sorted boss. Hopefully it's not working correctly. But if it is.....need to know for sure one way or another.Already on it Doc.
Ryan,Yup the stepper motor is the little motor behind the needle that moves it up/down. Lots of people out there that can rebuild those clusters in their sleep for not too bad a price either. I think you’ve got a good plan goin. :thumbDon, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?
I have long suspected it
When Nick was tuning the truck, he noted that within minutes the gage marched right up to 210 and stayed there no matter what. He checked it against ECM coolant temp and found it to be way off.
I think I may just install a mechanical gage, and rely on the digital fan controller until then, then during the winter send the cluster off for a rebuild while I install that new 427...
My ONE critique looking at the pics is that the rear axle/wheel isn’t centered in the wheel well. But I guess when you lift something, unless you get a longer drive shaft, that is inevitable.
Looking for some opinions here gentsWheels are perfectly fine in my opinion.
Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?
Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
LookingzWheels are perfectly fine in my opinion. I had stepper motor problems in my 2001 1/2 ton. Gauges were forever acting up. I think in those years that was common.
for some opinions here gents
Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?
Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
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LookingzWheels are perfectly fine in my opinion. I had stepper motor problems in my 2001 1/2 ton. Gauges were forever acting up. I think in those years that was common.
for some opinions here gents
Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?
Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
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I have the same wheel as you in the shed, I like the mixed machine and black look.The truck will soon lose some of its height
I’ll not be excited about a forced 20 on a new truck.m when it happens
Wider wheel might help ya not look so top heavy also
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Definitely get that gauge sorted boss. Hopefully it's not working correctly. But if it is.....need to know for sure one way or another.Already on it Doc.
I ordered some mechanical gages from Summit just now, and sent an email to a guy in Michigan who rebuilds these GM gage clusters. We'll see what he says. Seems like a simple couple day turn around operation.LookingzWheels are perfectly fine in my opinion. I had stepper motor problems in my 2001 1/2 ton. Gauges were forever acting up. I think in those years that was common.
for some opinions here gents
Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?
Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
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Wheels are fine, maybe a color update? The entire look is good, better without everything up top all the time and the truck mirrors add something too.Did not do steam crossovers, just left the stock tubes in place along with a couple mud dauber nests to block the passage
As for the temp, make sure the gauge reads the engine not the rad temp. Did you get the "steam" crossovers on the that motor? That could play tricks on ya.
Dauber might be an option, but not helpful. No steam crossovers, and it runs hot, Hmmm.JR, it has the factory corner steam pipes, but not an aftermarket setup
Gonna get the beamer logo too?Love the bimmer logo, rmdneis me of ma weit und balance kalqualatiuns
Long as the motor never got hot is the main thing!
What about a 1" Zero Rate Add A Leaf, they have them in 2-1/2" or 3" wide.Didn't know about that...Cool idea.
They let you move the axle back 1" or 1-1/2"
https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-2-1-2-wide.html (https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-2-1-2-wide.html)
https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-3-wide.html (https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-3-wide.html)
Mulch bed you mean??Exactly!
3k stall sounds right, 15% throttle, thats close to idle!
Why are the gauges clocked 90* clockwise? Is that so you can read them when rolled on your side? ;PBecause when he installed them in post #622 they looked just fine.
Don, mounting it in the radiator hose is no bueno. Needs to be in the block. Should be a spot in the right rear head, just like the one in the left front.Ken, Why is that?
Why are the gauges clocked 90* clockwise? Is that so you can read them when rolled on your side? ;PAn old NVG flying trick
Don, mounting it in the radiator hose is no bueno. Needs to be in the block. Should be a spot in the right rear head, just like the one in the left front.
You want accurate, actual engine temp, at least for the gauge. The coolant in that hose could be 30* colder than engine temp, when it's not flowing.Ken, the way I look at this is like this. The factory gages are notoriously inaccurate. My generation burb/Silverado is known for failures. So why does it even matter if there is a gage or not?
Like JR said, if the tstat sticks, your engine could be running 260 and you'd never know it. That's why the factory sender is in the head (all temp senders are pre-thermostat). Fan probe can be radiator side tho. ... like where you have it in the hose.
Are you going the change the headliner?Headliner: No, stays as is forever
What is the second color your going to do? Looks good.
You up for a scratch test? Fingernail drag across a panel and see what comes up?
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Picture of can please? Product namePost #643
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Those are technically e-torx (external). A standard socket works in a pinch, but enough times in and out you run the risk of rounding it off.I just like that color. And its hard to argue just how well this paint/dye works on leather. he seats are coming out great.
I like the Caddy cinnamon, but not sure about the BMW... but not my truck ;)
Looks good DonThank ya
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What is the fee for bringing my truck over and you doing the same. I will supply the paint? LOLNo, ya got it all wrong. I write this stuff up to empower you to do it yourself. Not really hard, just a lot of work. You kept the wings attached to go-fast things, a truck interior should be a walk in the park!
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Your not going to do a carpet color change?No, I thought that keeping things lighter might help me find things in low illum, and it matches the headliner.
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It's just a lot of work...Much more than I initially figuredIsn’t that the usual pattern around here!
And here with the just finished drivers seat:Looking sharp! A lot of work for sure.
What is this fogging cosmoline product? Did I miss it earlier? I have to agree that the door panel turned out really nice.Goes by different names, T. This can is called cavity coater. I purchased it before at the paint supply store where it was called liquid amber. Same stuff. Cosmoline suspended in a solvent that gets it into all the nooks and crannies, then that stuff evaps off and you're left with a multi decade air barrier.
Thanks Chief,What is this fogging cosmoline product? Did I miss it earlier? I have to agree that the door panel turned out really nice.Goes by different names, T. This can is called cavity coater. I purchased it before at the paint supply store where it was called liquid amber. Same stuff. Cosmoline suspended in a solvent that gets it into all the nooks and crannies, then that stuff evaps off and you're left with a multi decade air barrier.
And what is the purpose of that inside the doors? Rust prevention in the doors?Yes,
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I love the seats.Glad you do, I do too
Well, she has a new truck, right?Sure does
Does your ground wire feel hot at all?Didn't check, but the fuse was darned hot.
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In a vehicle they’ll put 12 all day for 30 amps.Thanks all!
10 would be better.
Like others have said get a good clean connection.
The 14 is definitely too small for the sake of having a fire.
Find the actual load also.
You may need to go to #8 and 40amp fuses if it’s actually seeing 30.
The motor start draw will be at the root of the trips.
That should be 30a fuse (Maxi) for each fan, minimum 12g per fan (2-12g grounds, 2-12g powers)Copy that, two maxi slow-blow 30 amp fuse/holders inbound
^^^Scratch that. Just realized that if you're using an oem style, I would assume you ordered one for a '07+new body style. Those things eat up the amps....they run on 40amp fuses, which means 40amp relays as well.No, not the 07 and newer. Dorman replacement for the 2003 or 04...Whichever year the electric fans started. And to fit the large 34" radiator
I'm going to try and link a schematic but may not work
If you have the fans install and powered 'like' stock efan vehciles both fans should come on at the same one. There should be two speeds (Low and High)...I don't
Here is the fan harness I use and have zero issues with: https://www.bp-automotive.com/product/1999-2006-gm-trucksuv-fan-harness/
The PCM should do all of the 'trigger' work for turning the fans on and off etc
Sorry, don't remember any having electric fans until the NBS. Maybe it was all the whiskey.I actually think the 02 was the last year for the clutch fan. 03 and later were electric.
Don, you sure that Aussie controller is spinning them in the right direction and not backwards?Yep, sure am
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Just take the hood off^^^^^You people see that right there!
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You removed the battery (post 756) for all the wiring? Those are massive fuses, hope that is the real issue.Most of the battery stuff is gone, but the hot cable makes for a good place to connect for power so it remains, although well covered.
Fender fix, did that years ago on mine, works good. I covered everything in undercoating.
Like to hear more about the oil leak, saw the new tires too. I would really like to find a tuner for mine, just not happy with current tune.I can't go above 37" JR. These are the largest thing which will reasonably fit without cutting and lifting and creating a clown truck. If anything I'd like to lower it 1-2".
You know you could always go up a tire size to help with RPM. I thought those 488 would be a little low.
Why not dump the exhaust out the rear? Looks like that broken dogs hind leg shaped exit pipe is a little low for comfort?I don't think I have enough room to throw the exhaust over the axle because of the panhard bar and relocated shocks.
Bottom line is that the Burb just got a bunch more powerful.
So many people to fire...so little time - Don HarwardI need to hire a managing executive to take care of em'
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How's a manager fire himself?So many people to fire...so little time - Don HarwardI need to hire a managing executive to take care of em'
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Tex, would you be up to the task?
Some alien abduction? Don is starting to think more practically.....
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I can't believe he's going to get any kind of warranty, especially an extended version!
You gonna put that 80 in the 6.0 boys truck?I'm gonna to put it up for sale!
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Not that at all. Plenty of faith in Tate's products. I just have zero faith in your shipping ability, and Don's right foot!I can't believe he's going to get any kind of warranty, especially an extended version!
Ken, Tate sells a quality product and I stand behind my work so we feel confident in that warranty. Not sure how shops do it in Southern AZ but it doesn’t sound like you have much faith in your work? :popcorn:
OK, back at it for the next round of modifications.
After driving it for awhile now, most everything is working except for some buzz in the stereo. I think I may have missed hooking a ground back up after the interior re-do, so I'll search after that tomorrow.
A persistent problem has been with highway cruising. Although it will cruise at 80 mph, the RPM is just too high, above 2500. Therefore I am making the switch down one notch to 4.56. I ordered the front gear and bearings from Tate, Randy's worldwide and for the rear axle I'm doing something pretty cool.
The D80 is huge, as in big and heavy, so I'm pulling it out for good. I contacted Shawn, Great Lakes Off Road to build me a proper 14 bolt silverado axle setup. Using Yukon gear stuff, he will add the new 4.56 gears to a Dura-Trac diff and do some mild reconditioning then ship it to me.
So why swap from a D80? Well several reasons. First the D80 is very heavy, and is sucking up a bunch of horsepower accelerating that mass which costs me fuel mileage and performance. Secondly, I have not had an emergency brake since I removed the problematic hydraulic shunt valve. I had four different lines on that setup and all of them leaked, so I pulled it and have been without the parking brake ever since. I will now get that back.
I'll let Shawn talk up the axle build details but that is all we have on that front at the minute.
Next the truck is going to go through another tune session. I have identified a bunch of little things that need to be adjusted to dial this thing in a little better.
I will be removing the roof tent since I am just not using it and have the camper to sleep in if needed, and it will reduce weight and get that weight off the roof.
All in all the suburban rides and operates very nicely, but these and another big change I have not mentioned will add to the drivability and fun factor a bunch more.
Your taking the roof rack off! Adding a full soft top convertible roof!?!?yes!
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I just want a retractable rag top so you can have the wind in your hair feeling. No gun mounts or anythingOK, no gun mounts
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Well there goes calling it the SOF top.I just want a retractable rag top so you can have the wind in your hair feeling. No gun mounts or anythingOK, no gun mounts
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I would call it a spirited conversation of fun ideas and an expansion of artistic design for your vehicle is all, not a disasterThat's a mouthful...and probably correct.
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Is this the makings of the third motor going into this?technically, the second
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They sure munched those plates!
I notice you’re missing the drums and shoes, I’ll send you the ones off mine. I need to change out to disc brakes anyways. I don’t mind helping Don out that way.
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Did you use blue or red loctite. Asking for a friend.
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Blue locktite and red loctite all come in a red bottle.Did you use blue or red loctite. Asking for a friend.
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The stuff in that red bottle in the picture, if you’re color blind my apologies. If not we’ll chalk it up to Dave question of the day...... :tongue:
There are diff reds too.
You know the new axles pictured are trailer axles? I think the one up top might be some better.
There are diff reds too.I just said Don might have decided to go in a different direction with the axle, I didn’t say it was a good/smart one.
You know the new axles pictured are trailer axles? I think the one up top might be some better.
Your as bad as black hole as any of us
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Sweet. Need to find a place like that near meYou have a compressor. :Wink
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Sweet. Need to find a place like that near meYou have a compressor. :Wink
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Sweet. Need to find a place like that near meYou have a compressor. :Wink
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You beat me to it Ken, he has everything else!!
Better get all thAt grizzly grease out
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I like the stand. I just a have a wooden stand now and a nice one I can put on my engine stand, but it has a LS hanging on it now.
best rule of thumb is 98+ GM will see these in most model applications, even 1/4 and 1/2 ton. they call it the triple lip seal.
best rule of thumb is 98+ GM will see these in most model applications, even 1/4 and 1/2 ton. they call it the triple lip seal.
Thanks for the info Tate
best rule of thumb is 98+ GM will see these in most model applications, even 1/4 and 1/2 ton. they call it the triple lip seal.
Thanks for the info Tate
sorry it's a little late
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Buttoning up Dons axle, crate building time
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I think he just stuck his thumb in the wet paint to get that pattern. There's no way a hippie is that talented.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210123/7fbfc7099234555e5e36da108f0a008b.jpg)
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Buttoning up Dons axle, crate building time
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This is what you're looking for folks. 50 yard line, center field, football shaped pattern. Nice work Sean. Try not to mess it up Don.
They are about the easiest to work on for any rear.
If 30% of the story is true and it has one of a new turbo or a decent built trans then it’s worth the $$.I think this ^^^ is the correct option. It runs good as is, it would do great on the trip if the time line isn’t correct
Now Charles hit the nail on the head, open it up and see for yourself.
And it could wait till after the ‘Ride’ to get swapped over.
And who knows, maybe with the new gears it won’t be so bad...
Yeah who am I kidding.
The boys truck would be a treat with the gas motor out of the burbThen I could buy the boys 6.0 from his truck and stick it in the blazer. OR, we could make this a lot easier, you could buy the duramax truck, I could pay you what the boys gas engine is worth, and we just stick the duramax in the blazer. I know, I know, you’re saying the math doesn’t add up. BUT when you think about how much labor and trouble I’m saving you, you should be paying me. ;)
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Are you going to run the stacks through the cab of the suburban? I’m tuned in a be ready to watch. You wouldn’t have to worry about heat in the winter months, but you may need to add some extra AC.It's not a bad idea ya know
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You from the IRS??The boys truck would be a treat with the gas motor out of the burbThen I could buy the boys 6.0 from his truck and stick it in the blazer. OR, we could make this a lot easier, you could buy the duramax truck, I could pay you what the boys gas engine is worth, and we just stick the duramax in the blazer. I know, I know, you’re saying the math doesn’t add up. BUT when you think about how much labor and trouble I’m saving you, you should be paying me. ;)
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Hmmmm...so if you’re not going to use the duramax truck......maybe a durablazer, or a K5 max? Don’t think I would get fit going in time though. Unless they hurry up with that stimulus deal And I add a couple more kids. ;)Dave,
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Sounds like a great idea, but do the new drivetrain before you go. Will make the trip so much better! Plus I bet Shawn could setup a frontend for you and ship both, saving you time at a fair cost.
From my understanding the LB7 injectors are not that hard to do. Specially if the motors out and all. Heck that price is less than the motor would be along.
Now, whats this about a June realman meet?? That is not that far and plenty of time to plan. Is this more than just you and Shawn or more RM?
Don will be wagon training with this to get to COThat actually looks like the amount of fuel I will be needing!
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It is Ken and a 14hp engine. Pressure washers are like RVs. Bolted together pieces that the mfgs don’t make except for the frame of the cart.It's a Kohler. Looks to be the same one as is bolted to my chainsaw. I think you are correct gentlemen, 14 HP, and over 4,000 psi at 4.5 gallons per min. Has a larger 3/8" pressure hose. I just run it at idle to mid throttle most of the time. Seems like twice the machine as the older 3200 psi Honda powered machine.
Don, did they use a Honda engine on that?
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Oops I posted pics in the wrong thread. Sorry Boss moving now.Thanks Ken
Don, don't you have a blasting cabinet? Might have saved some time.My blast cabinet is junk...HF unit that never worked well. I did use it for a home for one of the kid's kats. It had a litter in there. It now holds down part of my workbench top. I was thinking of cankin' the thing and create a metal fab work area out of that corner. The plywood table top would make a nice welding table!
You would think with the thousands if millions of these we would have a few options for a traction device besides just the $$$ air locker.
Great work, nice to just swap vs pull down with the truck down.
Well, don't use an impact!I had some pics but they didn't turn out. You can barely see to make it out. I am wondering how I did it the last time.
Whats the drive side look like?
Dave, in places you can’t get a blind hole puller into you can pack the area behind the bearing with grease then drive a pin the size of the hole in center of bearing thru it. The grease is pushed by pin and drives bearing out towards youSo when tightening or loosening you are pushing against what? Bearings or the actual differential gear set? I have read about you guys setting back lash I understand that portion but what are you using to adjust it?
Side adjusters are used to move ring gear towards or away from pinion gear. You screw then in or out and both sides need to be moved same amount after bearing preload has been set in order to maintain that preload
I have two questionsAnswers in red above
1. What do you mean “ removed using the hydraulic grease method” ? I am not sure what that is or how to use it.
You pump the cavity full of grease, then find a suitable bolt, and tape it up until if fits the bore snuggly. Align it over the opening and smash it with a hammer. The pressurized grease will shove the pressed in bearing right out...easy-peasy
2. Side adjusters? I have never seen a front differential on one of these open nor do I plan on doing it, I’ll just stay in my lane for that kind of thing and let someone who knows handle it. But. What is a side adjuster?
Just like a 14 bolt FF axle has the screw type adjusters on the side to move the pinion in/out, this 9.25 AAM axle does as well. You can see me holding them in my hand as I removed them to rebuild with new bearings/race/seals as necessary. They take a strange tool to move, and that is why I just built my own.
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Dave, in places you can’t get a blind hole puller into you can pack the area behind the bearing with grease then drive a pin the size of the hole in center of bearing thru it. The grease is pushed by pin and drives bearing out towards youAnd just because this all sounds easy it is anything but.
Side adjusters are used to move ring gear towards or away from pinion gear. You screw then in or out and both sides need to be moved same amount after bearing preload has been set in order to maintain that preload
Pinion preload is without seal also.
Tate, on preload for the carrier bearings, I don't see that. So after you have your good pattern and backlash, how much do you tighten the side adjuster?
this is a 2 step gear and needs to be a tighter backlash, .005-.007 is what it actually calls for. I didn't have my spec sheet last night, sorry Don. you need to add .007-.010 pin depth shim thickness; you're way shallow on this pattern. speaking of pattern, a 2 step gear just needs to be in the middle of the tooth, top to bottom of the lands/grooves. heel to toe doesn't matter so much, and your classic football pattern won't show up here; you might get a "pink eraser" trapezoid kinda looking deal, sometimes at a 45* from heel to toe, but as long as it's centered height wise, your fine. here are the specsDang, I was close
Preload 15-22 lb/in of rotating drag w/o carrier installed
backlash .005-.007, yes really that tight
recommended pinion depth starting point .032 which you're under, but factory is not the same ratio, so it's normal to have to adjust. you're on the right path, just get some more shim in there, and use an electric drill to spin the gear, no impact when checking pattern!
backlash measured at the yoke should be devided by 2, so you're shooting for 0.010-.014, you weren't far off the 1st try sir.
go get after it now, i'll wait. :-)
from what I can see, you're good to run Don. Ship it!Rog!
You'll need a pump to, doubt you can switch them unless its a deep aux tank. Did you look at skid plates?Right now, JR, I don't have a clue what will fit and what won't
Probably is, just get a pump for that vs the 20 year old pump in there. I was really happy in having a access hole for mine in the floor, maybe just "mark" the floor where it is, just in case?I didn't see a factory skid plate anywhere. Have to look harder
For the skidplate, why fab when a factory unit will bolt right in and probably cost less than just the alum sheet?
Back to the barn now!!
I’ll just leave this here
https://www.rezvanimotors.com/rezvani-hercules-6x6-military-edition#hercules-6x6-military-edition-features
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That the baby tank above the old spare spot?yessir, all 11 gallons of it
Why are the vertical links on that sway bar so much wider then the sway bar? I know you didn’t build the sway bar,Ford F350 rear sway bar, links from some other project. Pretty much unbreakable.
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. Pretty much unbreakable.Said no pilot ever. Especially Don
Didn't remember the panhard bar so long ago. Doesn't it just push the springs side to side?If it's level there is not enough suspension travel to cause it to do much side to side at all. I recall watching old 60's "G" bodies with jacked up air shocks hitting a bump and waddling side to side. This is nothing like that, and a great counter to a roof mounted tent.
Hey, don't pick on my el camino!Yea, that's one!
I really like the color of the wheels.I think they look good by themselves, but against the gray color of the burb...I'm undecided.
Boss, if you would take a suggestion from an old Air Force guy. I would mount the skid plate after you drill and take it for a test drive before you powder coat it. My luck would be that I will put a hole in a perfect place that it would whistle any time I drove it. Not sure if I could hear it after working around jet engines for so many years...Overkill!
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Looks good. Maybe the mileage will go up some to.Haven't found any yet
Any rubbing with the 37s?
Interesting.It will disintegrate the rear tires if you give the blower some air, but I don't drive like that. And I like quieter on this one. Although I have the largest/quietest dyno-max made on there, it could use more muffler.
I would think heavy or not it should do more than just away from a light.
You can also put a 6L85 behind it like the vans have.
You can also put a 6L85 behind it like the vans have.I talked to the 6-speed guys. One of them told me to stay away from the 6-speed even for the built LS motor. The guy I spoke with who sells conversion kits told me to stay away from the 6L series transmissions. He said they are either hit or miss, and he does not know why. Naw, if I go oil burner, then only an ally pretty please
I was thinking tcase to. You said it was really hot. Electric shift right?yes, electric
They are in the same pump rub family, and output shaft bearings just let go. check your email.I did, thanks
Burb is sending hints. Show it whos boss,,,,,,,,,Got that sas wows your saying
If ever there was a time...Burb is sending hints. Show it whos boss,,,,,,,,,Got that sas wows your saying
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You’re almost there Don. I get frustrated and just want to throw the towel in too sometimes. I get it. You’ll get these last few things worked out and it will be good to go.
Nope. Back together and has one trip with the camper under its belt, and just picked up the camper for a trip this weekend.You’re almost there Don. I get frustrated and just want to throw the towel in too sometimes. I get it. You’ll get these last few things worked out and it will be good to go.
speaking of ryan, is your dmax taken apart at the moment?
Ryans is back on the road and fresh from an RV towing adventure..Yea, spose so...
Don, I hope the rant is over. Now suck it up and get r dun.
Reality is that setting up gears is an art. Just pay for it to be done and rock on.
CM chief.
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So did they find the cause of the t-case and front diff failure?No, and that's kind of troubling. With nothing to point at, all I have is, something unexpected happened to the T-case, and my guess is that somehow, I pushed the ring gear to proper side clearance with the adjusters, but something popped loose because there is no backlash now...Like the ring gear moved away from the pinion gear...a long way away...
sounds like a lock tab on an adjuster let loose and backlash was compromised, or pin nut maybe backed off, but either way keep me updated with status on that. T case is out for delivery right now.
sounds like a lock tab on an adjuster let loose and backlash was compromised, or pin nut maybe backed off, but either way keep me updated with status on that. T case is out for delivery right now.Yea, thanks for getting that T-case out so quickly. My old one is sitting on the rack already out of the truck.
Can’t ya get them inside the frame instead of outside?Awfully busy in there...Panhard bar, sway bar...
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I knew this guy once that had a p pump12v out of an old dodge project truck he never finished……
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Hey, I'm the only knucklehead that tried to get Don to leave this one alone because of how clean it was.I knew this guy once that had a p pump12v out of an old dodge project truck he never finished……
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Negative, that p pump wouldn’t run
Give me a few months and I’ll have an LBZ that’s for sale.Hey, I'm the only knucklehead that tried to get Don to leave this one alone because of how clean it was.I knew this guy once that had a p pump12v out of an old dodge project truck he never finished……
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Negative, that p pump wouldn’t run
You guys created this monster!
:popcorn:Maybe not even a P-Pump. Possibly a VE pump. even that would out power this pathetic LS cream puff of a drag race/non-truck motor
I see P pumps going for 4k now, crazy.
:popcorn:Maybe not even a P-Pump. Possibly a VE pump. even that would out power this pathetic LS cream puff of a drag race/non-truck motor
I see P pumps going for 4k now, crazy.
Hey, I'm the only knucklehead that tried to get Don to leave this one alone because of how clean it was.I knew this guy once that had a p pump12v out of an old dodge project truck he never finished……
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Negative, that p pump wouldn’t run
You guys created this monster!
This.:popcorn:Maybe not even a P-Pump. Possibly a VE pump. even that would out power this pathetic LS cream puff of a drag race/non-truck motor
I see P pumps going for 4k now, crazy.
So I’ve lost track of this truck with all the hoops and loops the pilot owner has put it thru……
Couple questions, statements now that I’ve poked some fun and DOT’d myself into satisfaction….
What does this pig weigh exactly now?
4.56 gears
Stall converter?
500hp motor? That’s a lot of power, something isn’t managed correctly…..
Speaking of which who is tuning this as of late?
It’s not a diesel or a chinook or a suzuki 2 wheeler at the end of the day.
Diesels aren’t cheap even ve Cummins motors. Get this right with what you have and drive it. My 2 cents
Maybe its just me.... but why wouldn't a stock LS be enough for an adventure rig? just did Colorado/Moab/SD trails a plenty in my wifes Jeep Gladiator, combined with 3000+ miles of gravel and dirt roads across the USA and it's not real spunky stock engine did just fine. It did fine in the snow at 12K plus elevation, it did fine on the slick rock and sand of Moab and it did fine in the rocks and mud of South Dakota. Even averaged close to 17mpg for the trip.I am actually inclined to agree. The stocker will move the thing and even (supposedly) tow a good load. And this mill does move it around nicely, just not powerful. But the more I think about it, maybe I just don't need a bunch of excess power. This LS, the 6.0 LQ4 line are gas suckers. The supercharger only adds a nice whine to the noise, but adds nothing to power output. You get slow as a stocker, or slow with a supercharged sound with my combo.
It has to be in the tune Don. You said it popsI drove it today to some football scrimmage games. It ran great. It backfired 5-6 times in a row, that one time while at high RPM and 12 lbs boost. Now the idle is not as stable, so something has indeed changed, but I don't know what
Just get a nice 6.2, sell the supercharged motor and you will make $$$. I had a 6.0 and it was a dog with terrible mileage no matter what I tried.
The one thing that I would question is fuel pressure. Probably a lean condition. Since it wasn't backfiring before, something changed. Tuning usually doesn't change, and I can't tell you how many GM application fuel pumps I've warrantied lately, no matter the brand. They're ALL junk...Denso, Delco, Spectre, Carter, etc. If the pumps aren't failing, the dang level sensors are.That's not it ken.
That being said, I don't remember if you put in a race pump or not.
The one thing that I would question is fuel pressure. Probably a lean condition. Since it wasn't backfiring before, something changed. Tuning usually doesn't change, and I can't tell you how many GM application fuel pumps I've warrantied lately, no matter the brand. They're ALL junk...Denso, Delco, Spectre, Carter, etc. If the pumps aren't failing, the dang level sensors are.That's not it ken.
That being said, I don't remember if you put in a race pump or not.
I have a "Race/forced induction" fuel system in there. It has large lines and two very high capacity fuel pumps. One for normal and the second kinks in above 7psi fuel pressure.
And here's another thing
Since I had it supercharged, that was the first time I ever stuck my foot into the throttle that far for that long. I just don't hot rod around all that much
new 100 pph, flow tested in a batch.The one thing that I would question is fuel pressure. Probably a lean condition. Since it wasn't backfiring before, something changed. Tuning usually doesn't change, and I can't tell you how many GM application fuel pumps I've warrantied lately, no matter the brand. They're ALL junk...Denso, Delco, Spectre, Carter, etc. If the pumps aren't failing, the dang level sensors are.That's not it ken.
That being said, I don't remember if you put in a race pump or not.
I have a "Race/forced induction" fuel system in there. It has large lines and two very high capacity fuel pumps. One for normal and the second kinks in above 7psi fuel pressure.
And here's another thing
Since I had it supercharged, that was the first time I ever stuck my foot into the throttle that far for that long. I just don't hot rod around all that much
underperforming injectors maybe?
Congrats Don. Apparently NSDQ applies to tuning as well.Seems to apply to everything...Much to my Frau's chagrin!
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Update: I have been using the stock transmission tuning now for weeks, driving 4-5 times a week.
The shift out of first now happens almost immediately so the hard shift that used to be there is almost gone.
But
When I use the towing mode that shift rises to a higher MPH and again, sadly, shifts hard to very hard
So I am putting a stop to all that. This week John at SS Transmissions is installing a rebuilt valve body with the Sonnax shift improver kit installed.
Everyone who uses that shift kit loves it. The Trans-Go kit is absolutely NOT THE WAY TO GO! I guess it works well for sled pullers or drag racers or people who just don't care (The type who run "Rollin-coal tunes" or with no mufflers, you know, those without brains) but 99.999999999999999999999999999999999999% of everyone else likes the Sonnax stuff.
Nuff said, that thing will be a part of the Burb's DNA as of Friday, this week.
Moving ahead, the truck still feels like it has very little power. Granted, that is due in part to having 37" tires, and part to being heavy, but 600 horsepower ought to do something. After a conversation with John, he feels the fault lies heavily with the converter.
So I called Monster transmission to talk that through. In a nutshell, the converter I have in the truck is all wrong for this application. It is rated for around 350HP, has a higher stall than factory and is more or less light duty.
My heavy truck needs a lower stall converter, not a higher stall converter. It also needs to accommodate a lot more power, like the later diesel converters handling thousands of ft/lbs of power. After some discussion, I learned that the converter I am using will break or has broken and simply is overloaded in every area.
They agreed to build me a fully customized billet converter with triple discs, anti ballooning welding and plates, and all the good stuff. They will warranty it for years to handle in excess of 900 HP.
So for $1299, I placed my order
https://www.monstertransmission.com/-GM-Chevrolet-4L80E-Diesel-Torque-Converter--Thor-HEAVY-HAMMER--Level-2_p_16586.html
Are you no longer working with nick, or whatever the guys name is that did all of that dynoing fod you?He is not a part of this phase. I may well return to him after the converter swap.
Hey, I learned to drive in a pinto wagon!I actually owned two. A coup and a station wagon!
Hey, I learned to drive in a pinto wagon!My first driver was a pinto. Built the engine in shop class. Wish I would have learned how to install the oil control rings before I got in a fight with the teacher, which resulted in taking the engine home to complete. ... which resulted in a mosquito killer.
:likebutton:
I agree monsters rep isn’t very good, circle d is top of the line
:likebutton:
I agree monsters rep isn’t very good, circle d is top of the line
I have missed something here. you can private message if you don't want to share on the open forum here, but also it's been 6 years since I was in their facility, training these reps face to face. I wonder if my graduating class moved on and the new batch is floundering?
Best to discuss in private:likebutton:
I agree monsters rep isn’t very good, circle d is top of the line
I have missed something here. you can private message if you don't want to share on the open forum here, but also it's been 6 years since I was in their facility, training these reps face to face. I wonder if my graduating class moved on and the new batch is floundering?
What did you find out Don?Nothing yet Tex
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Not a bad choice but motors have gone up to. I am seeing 12v going for over 2k now, I paid 1k.I found one
Start looking!
I have an inexpensive 24v short block if someone needed or wantedI may be.
I have an inexpensive 24v short block if someone needed or wantedI may be.
I think I have a complete 12 valve VE pump engine, which would be the one I'd rebuild for the burb, but I have thought about building a 24 valve with a P-pump
Really a clean looking burb. Hope this is the fixIt is like that everywhere. Every time I pulled off a panel, I found only dust. No rot, no accumulation of dirt, no signs of mice, no rust or corrosion. It all seemed almost like new except for the rear axle area that had some dirt scattered about, no doubt from use. I have taken it off road in gooey mud, but it cleaned up nice thanks to blue beacon truck wash!
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Glad you are getting there. TO bad it took this long a couple "tuners" to find issues.Copy that JR, still tweaking
Try playing with the tank size. Mine still reads full OK, but starts to move slow then dumps. When the light comes on (rarely when going to NV to fill) I still 10 gal in there.
Same with tire size, finally got it 1mph under, which I can live with.
Have you ruled out the stepper motor in the gauge cluster being bad? They’re known to do that.Have not?
The stepper motors just start acting “weird”. Not reading right when they always have before, going past their min/max, etc.Looks like 2003 up, not 2002.
The fact that it started happening right after you changed the tune is suspicious though.
Like JR says, plenty of places that rebuild those clusters all the time.
Now after saying this, yours is an 02 and might not be applicable given what I’m seeing here.
https://www.gmgaugerepair.com/chevrolet-instrument-cluster-repair/digital-gauge-cluster/
The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Well we are in the same boatThe can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Because you're the one that hacked up a clean one owner?The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Because you're the one that hacked up a clean one owner?The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Still love you boss.
Reverse psychology, I'm shooting for another raise.Because you're the one that hacked up a clean one owner?The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Still love you boss.
Do I see a firing in your future?
I thought about if for a minute, then realized it's thanks-givin'.Because you're the one that hacked up a clean one owner?The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Still love you boss.
Do I see a firing in your future?
It didn't work!Reverse psychology, I'm shooting for another raise.Because you're the one that hacked up a clean one owner?The can bus communication protocol changed, which is why on later models you can drop in a later model engine and do a re-learn. 2001-2002 are the least compatible."Why me!!!!!!!"
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Still love you boss.
Do I see a firing in your future?
H would slander Don with a full court media press aided by her cronies. Say that he beat baby seals for fun in Afghanistan. If that didn’t work, Don would die from some mysterious cause.Those things were seals?
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Square D all over,,,,,,,,ouch.I'm going to send it back and demand my money back. Of course I will lose the $1,000 R&R charge
Since everyone who knows anything is saying the TC is junk, send it back. Sure you can challenge the charge if they fight it.
If not I can understand the 6BT, but why a 4L80? I keep thinking about keeping my 46R, but going with a tap shift.
Square D all over,,,,,,,,ouch.Sure I’ve only got 5000 miles on our 46rh, less than 1000 after rebuild, but I often wish I’d have put something different. But, it was cheapest, was present, and required no modification so we ran it.
Since everyone who knows anything is saying the TC is junk, send it back. Sure you can challenge the charge if they fight it.
If not I can understand the 6BT, but why a 4L80? I keep thinking about keeping my 46R, but going with a tap shift.
Don I believe the Allison will fit behind it and be compatible with your controller system although only the five speed on your 2001 unless you do the 5-6 speed valve body upgrade. The 8.1 came with it.Tex, when you look at just solving an issue like a transmission/torque converter problem but then still only having a 10 mpg (unladen) max, that's just plain stupid.
That would solve your trans/tc problems.
Fuel mileage is still going to be a concern but should get better with less slippage. Doubt you’ll get over 10
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Just to be the weird one in the group, I really don’t understand why you aren’t able to get better mileage out of it. I’m running the same engine(minus tuning, cam, supercharger and big tires). I regularly get between 12-14 mpg, and that is combination back roads and highway, with me sometimes making the kids happy when they say “go faster daddy”. Not to mention this is a 3/4 ton van with 500k miles on it. Something just doesn’t sound right to me. Maybe your transfer case is stuck in 4wd, maybe you’re just pouring gas on the ground when you are driving it around, but to me it seems illogical.
Just my two cents from a Dave that served in the Air Force. Let the gaming begin. ;)
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Deja vu anyone?Well, I'm not going to part this one out, but it is clearly not able to do what I want it to do so something has to change.
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And 4:11 gears?Sorry, Tex, not trackin' was that a ???
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Well I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.No, sorry
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those are gas numbers, not diesel rpms, but you have od.No, just numbers out of a formula. Doesn't matter what motor, just numbers tossed into a calculator...
Well I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.No, sorry
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No more regearing.
4.10's with the stock 32" tires (or something like that) is very close to 37" tires and a 4.56.
32" tire/ 4.10 (Stock) 2261 @ 70mph
37" tire/4.56 2174 @ 70 mph
If money were not a factor, perhaps I would consider, but at the moment, I am looking at rescuing what amounts to a failed project, so planning around a minimum cash infusion, and betting I will get a lifetime of service out of a very efficient/powerful vehicle.
Lots of earlier generation (92-99) burbs have been swapped with remarkable results. Power, smoothness >20mpg figures and towing all in one package.
Well I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.No, sorry
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No more regearing.
4.10's with the stock 32" tires (or something like that) is very close to 37" tires and a 4.56.
32" tire/ 4.10 (Stock) 2261 @ 70mph
37" tire/4.56 2174 @ 70 mph
If money were not a factor, perhaps I would consider, but at the moment, I am looking at rescuing what amounts to a failed project, so planning around a minimum cash infusion, and betting I will get a lifetime of service out of a very efficient/powerful vehicle.
Lots of earlier generation (92-99) burbs have been swapped with remarkable results. Power, smoothness >20mpg figures and towing all in one package.
I concur. leave it alone with 37's.
Even the Dmax likes under 2k, or thats what the MPG, EGT and load tell me.1900 EGTs?
At 70 I see about 1900.
Shawn he said " Have Circle-D take that incorrectly built converter back and have them build a triple disc low stall for the cummins".
Chief,Something like that T,
I know the answer is no, but have you considered having a shop do it so you can just have a running rig in a couple months?
Different note, are you intending on the factory gauges to work or are you going to run standalone? I would think you could easily install the 6BT and run dedicated 4l80e computer instead of reprogramming suburban computer which would result in a drivable suburban in shortish order. Maybe I’m just oversimplifying it though.
Controller like this maybe?
https://www.hgmelectronics.com/4l80e-transmission-controller/
We Have wanted to put one on our power wagon since beginning of build…. Just never done it.
So what your saying is that you will source the parts and then stroke a check to have it done the right way?(https://media0.giphy.com/media/xUA7b7HcF126GuwoiA/giphy.gif)
So what your saying is that you will source the parts and then stroke a check to have it done the right way?No,
Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
If you want simple, Big D, hang a manual behind that Cummins. Then you won't need a 'puter. Just sayin'. :wink:Annnnd we’re back to SquareD. ;)
Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
Please share!Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though.
If you want simple, Big D, hang a manual behind that Cummins. Then you won't need a 'puter. Just sayin'. :wink:Thought/thinking about it, but it would involve the removal of that handy console and carving up the floor board. Not a fan of either.
Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?Please share!Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though.
I need all the info I can find. This is going to be a big one for me.
The actual threads pretty pleaseThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?Please share!Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.
Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though.
I need all the info I can find. This is going to be a big one for me.
The threads or diesel conversion specialist?
https://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/You are correct and spot on with all your points
Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.
I’ll shut up now. CM
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https://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/You are correct and spot on with all your points
Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.
I’ll shut up now. CM
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However
The cost of doing such a conversion is stifling, ridiculous, really
So, although I would probably go that route should money be of no concern, it actually is
So the 6BT 12 valve makes the most sense...Or just sell the vehicle as is. But who would want a fast fuel sucking suburban?
Exactly!
I called them a long time ago. They were no longer doing the 2002 generation conversionshttps://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/You are correct and spot on with all your points
Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.
I’ll shut up now. CM
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However
The cost of doing such a conversion is stifling, ridiculous, really
So, although I would probably go that route should money be of no concern, it actually is
So the 6BT 12 valve makes the most sense...Or just sell the vehicle as is. But who would want a fast fuel sucking suburban?
Exactly!
i may have asked this question already, but CRS is starting to creep in...
have you ever called duraburb and just had conversation with them about conversions? and if they had any info or sources for a DIY'er?
You've already spent that much,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,(fired)Naw, you're not fired for that
Here to make my yearly post before I disappear again. Since simple seems to be the theme here I’d like to throw out one more option I haven’t seen yet.If a supercharged 6.0 won't make him happy, I doubt that will longball.
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.html
Factory 6.0, 450hp long block $4636.
With the gearing you’ve got that gets you better than factory performance. It may not be as much power or as good of mileage as you desire but as far as simple goes, this seems to be the winner.
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NOHere to make my yearly post before I disappear again. Since simple seems to be the theme here I’d like to throw out one more option I haven’t seen yet.If a supercharged 6.0 won't make him happy, I doubt that will longball.
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.html
Factory 6.0, 450hp long block $4636.
With the gearing you’ve got that gets you better than factory performance. It may not be as much power or as good of mileage as you desire but as far as simple goes, this seems to be the winner.
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My recommendation would be to drive it as is, while it still runs. A 12V might give you power and mileage, but long distance trip comfort? (will it even fit around an independent front end without major work?) Not going to be happy imo.
But alas, Big D still has a nice truck that's capable of towing a nice trailer... I heard there's one rotting away on a farm somewhere.
Do I get a severance package?
I thought it still wasn’t running properly and nobody could figure it out. If it’s running the way it should, just not enough, I retract my previous suggestion. See y’all in 2022 and Merry Christmas!Here to make my yearly post before I disappear again. Since simple seems to be the theme here I’d like to throw out one more option I haven’t seen yet.If a supercharged 6.0 won't make him happy, I doubt that will longball.
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.html
Factory 6.0, 450hp long block $4636.
With the gearing you’ve got that gets you better than factory performance. It may not be as much power or as good of mileage as you desire but as far as simple goes, this seems to be the winner.
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My recommendation would be to drive it as is, while it still runs. A 12V might give you power and mileage, but long distance trip comfort? (will it even fit around an independent front end without major work?) Not going to be happy imo.
But alas, Big D still has a nice truck that's capable of towing a nice trailer... I heard there's one rotting away on a farm somewhere.
Do I get a severance package?
With all that in mind, why not keep looking a for a Dsub or a doner to have someone do the work in the long run. Or just look for an 8.1?JR, Why have someone do the work?
I have seen the LBZ for well under 10k, but normally around 20+. Dsubs for around 20k.
Nothing you have done has been a bad idea, its outcomes that seem to be the challenge.
Sell the burb, cut your losses and build another with the duramax...And get rid of that cool 14 bolt you built for me???
Have you considered a Gear Vendors over/under drive? Wouldn't help for towing or off road, but would provide an additional overdrive gear for daily driving. That might get your MPG numbers to where you want them.I have...
Don, I have no doubt it is with your capabilities. Another project, no problem as you KNOW the outcome will really be what you wanted from the start.Roger that to all
Not to rub it in, but there are a few hints alone the way urging the dmax all along. Kinda like the rear end which ended up being a nice solid 10.5.
No OD needed, just go with the cheapest doner you can get. Even the older 5sp ally has an update to 6sp OD.
I think the hardest part will be getting the ally in there, farm out the harness.
For what you have done to the current motor, it should fetch some coin.