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I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
It's 2 X 4 .250". Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far. The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.
For a 10,000 lb trailer I think you could get by with a 5" channel frame and 3" channel cross-members.
Yes 5" channel rails and tongue with 3" channel cross members was what I was thinking I'd use. I likely won't ever go bigger than a 10K trailer since my Sierra can't haul bigger than that anyway.
What do you mean 4 pieces front to back? Like four 20 foot long pieces of 4" channel? Or just 4" around the perimeter? If I used 4" channel for the main rails, the 2x8" planks won't slide between the top of the cross member and the lip of the main rail, which isn't needed, but is nice to help hold them. Would you have a drawing maybe you could share?
Ken, I was figuring for a 20' trailer. I agree it can be built lighter, 3" channel will hold most likely. Also I didn't specify on what centers for the angle or c front to rear & they are not crossing the whole trailer side to side only under the ramps. Center of trailer is open or expanded metal. I don't recall him telling me what vehicle he was hauling so I figured 4" was safe go between the 3" & what they were talking about.
I will definitely be going with a wooden plank deck (no open center section), and had originally figured on a 5" channel frame and tongue with 3" channel cross members that span the full width of the trailer, spaced at 16" front to back. The biggest vehicles I could see me hauling in the near future would be some atvs, or a car or a small 4x4 like a TJ or a small toyota truck.
I would do the front and rear the same way so that you can strap to them. Not sure what you have for tools to work with but I would cut one rail to fit inside to the other. This approach gives for area to weld.
Yes. If you wanted to get fancy you and probably for the strongest joint you could cope the top side of one leg and the bottom of the other. In reality it matters very little which one.
Fit looks good. I would just suggest you hit the welded areas with a grinder to clean up to raw metal before welding. Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of a chamfer to the thick part of the flange also to get full penetration on your welds.
I wouldn't waste good money on flap wheels. I would just clean it up with a hard wheel. Mill scale can be hard to grind off. If you want to make it look pretty go back and remove all the grinding marks from the hard wheel before paint where they are visible.