Seems like only a few weeks ago I was hauling dirt over the ice with the quad.
Made the first trip in the boat this morning.
No major icebergs seen, they are around still.
Picked big generator and welder up.
Fixed broken bits on dock. 
Now I wait for a calmer day to push the dock across.
20 gusting to 30 mph waves are a bit large for a dock move.

Sam how far across is it? When you move the dock, or dirt or lumber?

Back side of front passenger output (on top of where fancy bling aluminum cover is now)

When will they be ready? I need to pull my case back off anyways.

Quote from: wyorunner on May 25, 2019, 08:24:40 PM

Quote from: KensAuto on May 25, 2019, 06:23:27 PM

Nice..the Rockwells.
Just found out Boyce is closed for the holiday.  Oh well,  guess I'll put the credit card away.

Ken do you have a tow bar for your 925? I’ve got some 900 series stuff that absolutely needs a new home. I ain’t moving it again.

Just don’t get rid of any of that Dodge junk.

Didn’t plan to... when I finish our truck, son and I are making a road trip with all of it.... hope you got space

205 is pretty, we’re working on rear case mounts for that at moment

Just a universal 205 rear mount? I’ll take one if that’s the case :)

Shawn, if you are picking something up from him please let me know, I want that 1/4 ton he has.

I’ve actually been to his house years ago.... on my way to pick up this 74 in my garage I passed through Pocatello. Was looking at his trailers then. Guy has a lot of stuff.

I hate to ask this now... but is it possible to move the mount that holds the backing plate outwards? Just like I had to do with my caliper bracket on my 70....

So we went and surveyed what needs to be fenced, 510’ of no climb, with four gates....

Started working on little things again, and got the calipers and rotors in, both the same as what came off just shiny and hopefully proper working.

Was going to put the hubs and rotors together but thought it best to replace the inner wheel seals on the hubs. Which then sparked a find my bike helmet hunt so my son and I could ride to town... no dice and wife said I can’t ride on the highway without a helmet, so we rode the four miles to the highway and she picked us up.

Also did a little more on the seat brackets.

Our shiny new rotors.



New and old calipers, super shiny



So our seat brackets, still unsure if what I’ve come up with is the best option, but here it is.

This is the bottom of our buckets. They came out of a late 80s early 90s dodge conversion van. They were mounted on a swivel pedestal.



I had this bent up at our metal shop. Then I drilled 8 holes in them, four on top and four on bottom.



I had this hat channel type steel broken up originally for support of the floor. But decided it was not needed. So I drilled some holes in them too.



Then these bolts will be welded in on the back side.



Then the main bracket will rest on top of that and be bolted down.



Like this! I will then weld the hat channel to the floor.



We went this route while working with our upholster on the best way to install the carpet and have it look nice. All that will be sticking up is the 8 bolts. There will also be no more holes through my floor.

All you smarter than me people, if this is no good please let me know before it is glued in.

I’d run it in a heart beat! Even though it weighs as much as a Kia, it’ll be extremely tough! Look forward to seeing it in ravin8

That will take a while!!!

Another question, this starlink system doesn't have any kind of propulsion system, how will they know what will be covered? Are they expected to fan out only a certain distance and cover a specific area? Like a geo-stationary satellite

Just an FYI there are MANY options for calipers and rotors for that axle!!!!

And the banjo bolts are metric!

Ain’t that the truth! I did the best I could with what I had. Compared everything to the info on rock auto, let’s hope I did it right.

looking really good so far man, good work. you need any tech stuff on the diff let me know.

Tate sent you a PM just now.

i know it’s a ton more work to do, but you’re already half way there. i put a set of outer axle seals on both 60s i just did. $75 for the pair. but you pack them with grease on the inside and a smear of RTV on the outside.. no intrusion from water/dust/dirt etc into the axle tubes themselves.

This would be the thing to do. Along with a complete change to Yukon 35spline stuff and hubs...Another time.

I would qualify for two.... never went to Germany and will probably never go to Germany...

And ....

I know people of most of the other ribbons.

Thanks Dave.  You gonna change out the hydro lines while it's there? I'll even throw in a grand cash. Lol

Ken how big is your lot? Sure looks amazing!! Are you going to fence it?

It's a 360.

I hope somebody sees this and corrects me if I’m wrong, but I believe any of the late 80s 5spds behind a 360 will bolt up with out any change. Possibly the 318s as well, maybe need a different bell housing but I not certain. Will look at the FSM and see what transmissions were options.

So the hard copy FSM I have is from 92, but it offers two manual transmissions, the G360 and the NV4500.

I’m not sure either of those were available, but I do know there was a 5 spd behind a 360 in 1989, my brother owns one right now.

Quote from: wilsonphil on May 21, 2019, 09:25:35 PM

Quote from: stlaser on May 21, 2019, 07:31:08 PM

Technically we have bolt on options for some Dana 70’s, just not yours Turner! 

Likely excuse!!!!

Possible..... With that said I dislike Dana 70's from a brake conversion standpoint. Turner is just complicated in general and I think he will readily admit it. So why shouldn't his truck be that way too? 

This truck is WAY MORE complicated than I am. But we’re getting it under control.

I went and got "a yard" of dirt for the garden. I used quotes around a yard because they used a huge loader and just dumped until the bed was pretty much full. Lol

The only bad is that I noticed rain water on the passenger floor when I got in it in the morning. I need to figure out where it's getting in before I get the insulation and rubber mat installed. 

I'm still not happy with the gearing.  Does anyone know if there's a 5 or 6 speed transmission that will pretty much bolt in place of the 4 speed?

What engine?

Quote from: wyorunner on May 20, 2019, 04:17:33 PM

A problem with older dodge bodies like this and why the floors are rusted into nothing, is that the seam sealer at the factory was hit or miss on the quality. Most of the time it was a miss, and it simply allowed water in through the A pillar and it would sit on the floor board.

Over the years people address it, but I’m guessing the solution it just add more, instead of clean, repair, seal. Thus just encapsulating the problem rather than fixing it.

So I thought I’d try to fix it. First I removed all of the old dried out stuff, the caulking that was on top of that, any paint, rust down to bare steel.

Then rejoined the several spots where the roof had become detached by putting some simple spot welds down.

After it was all together again, I laid down a couple tubes of self leveling seam sealer, with some heavy bodied seam sealer on the verticals.





Under side of the gutter also got cleaned and re sealed. This is pre clean.



Driver side under the gutter nastiness.



Again driver side, but this is the gutter. You can see the roof panel is not fully connected.
This is one of the spots I had to add some weld to.



This is the front gutter after I filled it with self leveling.



This is the 2k stuff I used. The mix tubes work great, just simply squeeze it like a caulking gun and it comes out properly mixed!!!

I wonder if this could be my issue too. I parked mine outside andcwe got some rain.  I went to get some dirt for the garden and noticed a small puddle on the passenger floor. I'm glad I haven't put the floor insulation and rubber mat in yet.

I'll have to give this a look.

Is it the whole gutter, or just above the windshield that will leak on to the floor?  Someone installed a visor on my truck and I haven't removed it yet

Thanks a bunch for posting this!  Your truck is going to be awesome!

I was once told to poke it with a screw driver.... you’ll find the soft spots. It could be anywhere on the front of the gutter. The sealer didn’t seal, and it weeps to the outside and down the inside of the A pillar.... it could also be coming from the cowel, as there is ducting to the sides that lead from there to the cab, one of mine was absolutely leaking as it is basically non existent. Did the best I could to repair it.

Does that make sense?

You can clean and repair the whole thing in a day if you wanted to. I just work like my mind flows, so everything happens at once.

Technically we have bolt on options for some Dana 70’s, just not yours Turner! 

Yea I recall talking to you about that. That’s ok this worked out well.

Now I’m just trying to figure out why the front brakes are receiving what appears to be max pressure while the rear doesn’t seem to be receiving any.

I know I need to install the proportioning valve to adjust the amount to the rear but I figured I’d be able to get it close.

So what we’re working with for everyone who reads this, 1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins powered hydroboost and master cylinder, 1992 Dodge W250 front calipers, 1977 K2500 front calipers (in the rear).

This is happening while the engine is not running so I don’t know if having the hydroboost “on” would make a difference.

Now onto the rear disc conversion. For starters if you own a Dana 70, prepare for more than a bolt on situation. Spacers or bracket relocation is needed.

Thanks again to Shawn for making a great product.

You can see the bracket hanging, it is painted the same as the diff cover.



To start you need to remove the eight bolts that hold the axle shaft in, slide it out, and then remove the spindle nut. Some have two nuts and a locking type washer, this one had a single nylon locking spindle nut.



Your outer hub bearing should come out without issue.



Then slide the hub and drum off and drive out the lug studs. Because you’ll be reusing your hub.



Hub lifts right off.



There are four bolts holding the brake pad mount on, remove those and your bracket slides off and can be discarded to your scrap pile.



At this point things started to get really interesting for me. The PO of the donor truck which my driveline came off of swapped in larger lug studs. I wanted uniformity so I wanted to go back to the size that came on the truck. But it wasn’t as simple as buying factory lugs because the lug stud holes in the hubs had been opened up.

So I needed to find a stud with a big enough and long enough shoulder to keep the rotor on the hub.

It took a few tries to find the right one, but eventually I did. Here is a comparison of what was in the drums to what needed to be installed in my rotors.



Then the real fun began, trying to install the studs into the rotors and hubs, the k2500 stud holes were too small.
 
I ruined two rotors even after changing studs. Then finally listens to people wiser than I and bored out the stud holes so the studs ONLY made contact with the hub.



So now you have your hub and rotors joined.

I then had my rotors faced to put a good surface on them.



I also replaced my out bearings because the races had a gash in them.



Now your at the point of bolting on your bracket and re installing your newly mated rotor and hub.... or so you think

This is where everything sits when bolted on, on a Dana 70. Obviously it won’t work.



So I reached out to Shawn for some schooling! After learning occurred I began measuring and found I would need spacers of about 1.75”. So I pondered, and asked about relocating the bracket.... I chose to relocate the bracket.

So moving along with things needing to be addressed, let me first address some individuals, Shawn stlaser owner of GLO for a great product and his help with odd things like a Dana 70. Wilsonphil for covering down on my lack of Cummins knowledge and simply just helping with all things dodge. And a HUGE shout out to swbhobie16, you guys have seen his work and will get to see more, but dang he has just been a blessing of help. So thank you to you all for the help with this project, it is appreciated more than you know.

Now, let’s talk about brakes. Originally my 92 axles were Dana70 drum in the rear, and Dana 60 caliper rotor up front. It was also driven by a simple vacuum brake booster. Being we are intending this truck to fill the role of what our 2007 duramax did, we are trying to upgrade things as best our ability allows.

The booster on the 74 was also set up for drum/drum axles. Which uses a different amount of residual pressure than the 92 booster, as well as the 99 hydro boost system that got installed. So the brakes really never worked after swapping axles.

To solve and improve the braking system issues, I installed a hydroboost and power steering pump off a 99 Dodge Ram 2500.

Then after that install I installed Shawn’s rear disc conversion plates with ‘77 k2500 calipers, rotors, pads, and brake lines.

I’m going to break the pictures up into two posts with the hydroboost in this one. The install of the hydroboost did not come without weird issues. I originally purchased a new booster, master cylinder, and pump. Well come to find out, there is a spacer that you must have in order to mount the master cylinder onto the hydroboost unit. Pump was installed without issue.

The new boost unit, notice anything wrong with it?



Dirty vac pump.



Clean!



Painted!!!!


Even though I bought the new stuff, I ended up buying this complete setup off eBay as well. Considering I didn’t have the spacer that is needed.



Here’s the spacer that makes the booster and master cylinder fit. If you don’t have this spacer the two will not bolt up for several reasons. Wrong direction of things, bolt width is off, the rod would be too long.



Early attempts to seal the hole in the firewall ended like this... no good at all.



I also had to have lines made from the pump to booster to steering box. But I can’t get the pictures of my mock ups to work.

Wow, what a project. 

That VA a/c setup is about twice as good as factory.  Good choice.

Glad to hear this. Do you have the ability to
crimp AC lines? That is the one piece of the AC puzzle I don’t want to buy the tool for it’s way too expensive for a one time use thing.

So... the mom of the house took a new job title a few months back, management and has the requirement of travel.   

She flew to Florida a month ago, we made do at home pretty well

She left again this AM to Florida and five min into getting home with the boys from daycare lol.

Emmett: dad can we go ride our bikes around the track while it’s still sunny out?

Dad: yep sure can
Walked in to get dogs fed and look out the back window to see both boys walking across the field next door pants to the ground, peckers getting tickled by the grass!

Dad:   Runs our front what the hell are your pants off for?   
Max: why?
Dad: yes!!! Why!?!?   

No answer just silence so off to there beds.


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Lol.... normal behavior here. Still trying to teach him it’s only ok at our house no where else. We don’t have neighbors!

Just simply amazed with all of that green.  Look great Ken


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I’d bet he is too. Especially compared to the large lack of it down here.

Thanks Mike. I’m soooo close to being done. Almost 2 years.


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I’m just building a truck and I tell myself the same thing.

Nice job Charles!!!! You clearly have a career after your existing one if you so chose it! Your work is great.