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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #300 on: September 17, 2017, 10:25:29 PM »
Actually all four walls are up now. If you mean the left window from our view, I don't know what happened. I laid it out as I went and got off kilter on the jack studs above the header. Will cut them loose and re center later. Just wanted to get all four up and then I can tweak.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #301 on: September 17, 2017, 10:27:09 PM »

Here's all four up.

Next is cutting in the ledger for the joists for the second floor. I have 9 1/2 inch I joists.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #302 on: September 17, 2017, 10:29:08 PM »
That front walk with two windows and the door was so heavy that two of us couldn't lift it. We had to use the pulley and tractor system and one guiding to get it up.

So some quick math says that wall was probably 600 lbs.

No wonder.

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« Last Edit: September 17, 2017, 10:32:12 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline JR

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #303 on: September 17, 2017, 11:16:53 PM »
Don't get me wrong, it looks great! Wish I had a wall or 2 up, still playing with wires  :facepalm:
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #304 on: September 18, 2017, 07:46:28 AM »
Now if you had added sheeting before leaning it up.  Think of that weight added.   Then you could have used a router to cut out the windows and doors too.


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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #305 on: September 18, 2017, 08:16:01 AM »
My grandfather would not lift a wall until the windows, sheeting, tar paper, and siding were in/on it and either their full length or 16' minimum. I have never done it that way. Too heavy. He swore by it though. With my daughter we lift up to 16' walls by hand. But, i do not do window sills, tails, or headers in a wall before we lift it. For me i can get things perfectly square with less large lumber to shove over. I have also found i like the large cargo straps. I use chokers on each end to secure the strap. Walls can be moved in 1/8" increments easily to get and hold square.  Are you doing a second top plate to weave your plates and corners together?

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #306 on: September 18, 2017, 08:42:13 AM »
Good day's work, Looking nice!
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #307 on: September 18, 2017, 09:55:01 AM »
Times 2 on the top plate question.

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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #308 on: September 18, 2017, 10:49:40 AM »
Yeah. I braced and plumbed the long walls usining a good old fashioned plumb bob to eliminate false reading off crowned studs.

Once it's squared up I'll weave the top plates.

Dave I thought about sheathing it but those 2x6 walls are already waaaay to heavy. Easier to adjust in sticks if it needs to be massaged


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #309 on: September 18, 2017, 10:50:59 AM »
I still have some tweaking to do. I just wanted to get the heavy lifting done while I had help


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Offline rpar86

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #310 on: September 18, 2017, 11:39:20 PM »
I agree on the 2x6 walls - took me and 3 neighbors to lift my garage walls - and had to lift them up onto concrete stem walls over anchor bolts.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #311 on: November 23, 2017, 09:37:26 PM »
Trying to get caught up here.

Got the walls up and made a mistake on the back wall. It was between the two long walls and I went 16 inch oc from the corner and  not from the corner of the long wall so sheathing did not lineup from the actual corner. Live and learn. Cost me 2 sheets of plywood.


Here you can see the rafters going up. This is a 12/12 roof. with the 32 inch pony wall upstairs the peak of the roof will give me 10 ft inside peak.
qthe plan is to have a spiral metal stair case in the opening which is about 62 inches square

Which means I needed a dormer to get the require 7'6" height above the stairs

Here you can see the lookout rafters and sub facia board going on. House will be all hardie including trim so I made the lookout rafters 14.5 inches so that with the 2x4 sub facia the 16 inch non vented hardie will completely cover all the wood and then a 1x8 hardi facia board finishes the outside edge.

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« Last Edit: November 24, 2017, 08:00:21 AM by TexasRedNeck »
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #312 on: November 23, 2017, 09:39:49 PM »

Here’s where the often elusive common sense kicked in. Working alone to haul sheathing up a 24ft ladder seemed like a bad idea and would take one man forever.  So I called the guy who built the main house and he hooked me up with his framing crew to come knock out the decking. Three guys at $46/hr. Seems reasonable and they knocked it our in 11 hours.




Instead of 30# felt I’m using rhino synthetic underlayment. Supposed to be superior and can be left open to the elements for 120 days. Very thin fabric and a roll covers 100 sq ft. 2x4 purlins for the metal roof in place and metal roof ordered. Will be emerald green R Panel to match the main house.

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« Last Edit: November 24, 2017, 08:21:50 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #313 on: November 23, 2017, 09:42:44 PM »


So here’s where I got back to work. Wrapping the house in tyvek by myself was fun. Feel like I could leg press a Jeep after 100s of Tripp’s up and down the ladder to anchor on end then move the ladder to anchor the other then move the ladder and nail and tape all along the way.  You get the point.



Here the soffit coming together. Here’s where I hired the crew again. Holding 12 ft flimsy pieces of hardi 20ft in the air by yourself didn’t seem like a great idea. They knocked all the facia and soffit out in 5 hours. Another smoking deal.



And back to me working again. Poured 12 tube form footings for the 4x6 porch posts and sank wet anchors in place. Here’s where lack of planning and engineering came back to haunt me a bit. The double 2x12 from the house to the posts is really not all that structural but securing them to the house in a way that didn’t include a ledger board was tough since I was building all the way to the edge. Some timber locks driven at 45 degree angles in the top and bottom of each 2x12 seemed to do the trick. I may add a Simpson right angle bracket but I have to keep protrusions to a minimum since this will all be covered in hardie. I did some pull ups from them so I guess that will hold





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« Last Edit: November 24, 2017, 08:33:31 AM by TexasRedNeck »
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #314 on: November 24, 2017, 12:03:37 PM »
Looks good I like the progress


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #315 on: November 25, 2017, 07:08:03 PM »
Ran my crew today for 3 1/2 hours. Got all the main R panels up.




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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #316 on: November 25, 2017, 07:26:58 PM »
And my new Hitachi coil siding nailer came in from amazon. About ready to rock and roll some hardi plank.


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Offline stlaser

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #317 on: November 25, 2017, 09:00:09 PM »
 :likebutton:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline JR

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #318 on: November 26, 2017, 01:26:47 AM »
Looks good. I was lucky and wrapped my walls before they went up. How are you going to cover the crawlspace?

Coil guns are great for this stuff. I have a bostich for siding and a HF for shingles.

HF framer was acting up a little today, didn't like loading new nails. Had to set a few by hand and dig a couple out of the gun. Still saved me a ton of work.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #319 on: November 26, 2017, 07:41:54 AM »
Not sure yet JR. Because of the humidity I don’t want to cloSe it off completely. More of a critter filter probably.


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Offline JR

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #320 on: November 26, 2017, 05:32:18 PM »
I was thinking of critters and them getting into the woodwork.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #321 on: November 26, 2017, 08:01:00 PM »
Ok. Picked up a new 28 ft IA ladder, some scaffold jacks and some solar board for the porch since it won’t have spray foam insulation.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #322 on: November 26, 2017, 08:01:34 PM »



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Offline Bob Smith

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #323 on: November 26, 2017, 09:07:59 PM »
You should look at some ladder adjustable feet from Sherwin Williams or another supplier. That new ladder will have you a long way up in in the air.

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #324 on: November 26, 2017, 09:27:25 PM »
Yeah I probably do Bob. Especial on this sloping site so I don't have to dig with the claw hammer to level a spot.


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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #325 on: November 26, 2017, 10:06:41 PM »
That was a pretty penny for that fiberglass ladder! 


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #326 on: November 26, 2017, 11:48:39 PM »
Yeah Dave, but cheaper than a trip to the ER.  The 200 lb capacity type III I have (24ft) is wobbly as all get out, especially since I go 230 by myself with no gear.
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #327 on: November 27, 2017, 12:33:55 AM »
I hate ladders but I own a forty foot ex, a thirty Ex, and a couple six foot A
frames. 

You can never have enough ladders.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #328 on: November 27, 2017, 09:37:05 PM »
So a few more tools came in this week. Maybe the reality is that I only build as an excuse to buy tools.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #329 on: November 27, 2017, 09:38:51 PM »
And here’s where I left the porch.

Low slope. 13 inches over 8 feet. Needed it to tuck under the eave from the side of the main roof.  Just need to build the lookout rafters and soffit and facia


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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #330 on: November 27, 2017, 10:01:51 PM »
I run a duofast siding gun. My business partner had a hitachi of a couple years old. It might be worthwhile to see if your gun will run standard coils. The hitachi is the only gun that coils the nails backwards. This is an issue if you run anything but their coils. It just makes it a bit more costly and narrows what nails can he used.
But, if it only for one project it will be ok. And, maybe they fixed the coil issue. The house is looking great.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #331 on: November 27, 2017, 10:02:45 PM »
Is that the coiler special for concrete planks? got a pick of the nails? just curious.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #332 on: November 27, 2017, 10:06:49 PM »
Its like having a 408 cheytac with no ammo.  Supposed to be a bad arse gun but we won't know until we get nails.

Jared, I think the new ones are pretty standard from the reviews I've read.  Will report back shortly
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Offline Jared Herzog

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« Reply #333 on: November 27, 2017, 10:07:16 PM »
When the siding gets installed you might want to consider using moist stop behind every butt joint which laps out over the piece under it. I cut 12” strips so i end up with a piece 12”X12”. This keeps water out of the joint once the caulk cracks with the expansion and contraction of the hardi. I use a staple slapper to pin it in place.
Also, use smooth galvanized fasteners. The ring shank which get used on fencing blows the back of the hardi out due to the ribs in the nails.
Edit. If they fixed that one issue with their coil gun it will rock and roll. I have a ton of hitachi pneumatic guns.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2017, 10:09:31 PM by Jared Herzog »

Offline rpar86

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #334 on: November 28, 2017, 12:40:10 AM »
When the siding gets installed you might want to consider using moist stop behind every butt joint which laps out over the piece under it. I cut 12” strips so i end up with a piece 12”X12”. This keeps water out of the joint once the caulk cracks with the expansion and contraction of the hardi. I use a staple slapper to pin it in place.
Also, use smooth galvanized fasteners. The ring shank which get used on fencing blows the back of the hardi out due to the ribs in the nails.
Edit. If they fixed that one issue with their coil gun it will rock and roll. I have a ton of hitachi pneumatic guns.
Hardi no longer wants caulk to be used on butt joints. It's in the install instructions.
Ryan
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Offline JR

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #335 on: November 28, 2017, 01:20:03 AM »
Got my first sheets up today. Gun worked great!
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #336 on: November 28, 2017, 06:21:35 AM »
Good intel Jared and Ryan. I did see the install with the flashing behind the joints. Thanks for the reminder.  Jared I’m assuming you are referring to the product line by Fortifiber?  Can you link to the product or provide more specifics on comparable material to use behind the joints?

Also let’s chat about nailing. I get the ring shank piece.

I’ve never liked blind nailing just the hidden portion. It just seems flimsy.  Would you also nail into the lower portion of the plank every 32 inches or so?


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Offline Jared Herzog

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« Reply #337 on: November 28, 2017, 10:43:16 AM »
In some states they require blind nails and a nail over the lap. I will give a run down on what i do and why. Some of my steps are not recommended. But, after many many houses it is what i do. I am in Texas so face nailing is not required in my area. I think some of the gulf coast regions do require the extra nail.
During my framing i use a sharpi to mark each stud and mark hazards on the outside of the slab. I do this before underpinning is installed which will cover my marks. If underpinning is already in i use a small pencil mark. This helps me locate studs accurately and fast to install sheeting. I then use this mark and transfer it to the wall for siding. So every hit is a stud for sure. There is no guessing.
I blind nail every stud. If i have two or three studs together i use two or three nails. I then do one face nail on each side of a joint. When this nail is left out these joints move too much for my liking. I also face nail as needed for rolls and such. Try to nail in the center of the lap. Too low and a nail will show. Too high and it does not hold the siding as well and could blow out the edge. I use moist stop for a joint flashing. You can use almost anything as long as it is water proof. I will post a photo later of my nails and my flashing.
I know hardi no longer recommends caulk but i caulk. My OCD will not allow me to see all those horizontal joints. These joints look terrible after paint unless the owner uses dark paint. Most are going light paint these days. They no longer recommend this as most painters use the cheapest caulk. It gets hard then the hardi expands and contracts and turns the caulk into a small ridge. This happens with the acrylic painters caulk which lacks silicone. I use the highest grade caulk i can. I also caulk twice to take care of shrinkage. I caulk as i go then i caulk a week later or once the siding is done. Carry a damp rag with you to clean up the caulk on butt joints. I try to leave a thin smooth layer over the joint to sort of bridge the gap. I have not had any issues doing this. I have used dap siliconized acrylic 40 year, i have used window and door trim caulk made by PL, and i have used dyna flex. Now here is where i also do what is not recommended. I caulk every horizontal joint and once again i caulk twice. The dyna flex or pl are thicker and harder to use but hold well and remain pliable. This sort of glues down the hardi pieces also. I started doing this after almost every homeowner insisted on it even when i said it is against the hardi installation instructions. But, i have been back to some of these homes twenty years later to repaint them and all is well. Some will say doing this traps moisture. This is true. But, had i used the 4X8 sheets the wall would have been sealed anyway. Any moisture would hit my flashing behind the joint. I leave 1/4” directly below this joint uncaulked. Or i come back and slit the caulk or push a scratch all into the caulk to leave an escape path for water that hits the flashing. With premium paints the walls are also sealed up and theoretically would trap water anyway.
On your starter row do a lathe strip. I just use deck staples to attach a 1”-1 1/2” wide strip of 1/4” luane plywood or i rip a 1/4” piece of a 2x4. Use a material slightly thinner than the siding because this gets attached to the framing. Then your starter row gets dropped down an inch to an inch and a half to create a drip lip. This distance i drop does vary based on how the home is framed. I mark all my first rows and chalk them out.   
I use hardi nails for the siding that are 1 7/8” so as not to penetrate too far into a wall stud where wiring or plumbing is.
On the trim i use hardi trim. I also install it as if it was wood. This is also against the rules. My issue is too many windows extend too far out beyond the wall surface so you have to double up hardi and screw it in. Or use cedar which will eventually rot. What i do is have the hardi siding cover the window flange. I bring it up to within 1/8” or 1/4” of the window , covering the flange, then put the 1x4 hardi trim on top. I do this because i do not want a horizontal joint running the length of the window. This also holds the hardi down. With most windows this puts the face of the trim even with the window or 1/8” beyond. I then caulk the junction of the trim and siding and the trim and window. I exclusively use PL window and door caulk to seal the top of a window. I have also used NP1 which can be on a roof in the sun for something like fifty years. It takes paint well. Any caulk that is used that does not take paint such as pure silicone can be allowed to dry. Then go over it with the dap siliconized acrylic and you get a paintable surface.  I caulk these areas between the window trim and siding twice to level out shrinkage. I only nail the trim in through the void of the hardi siding. If you try to nail through the 1x hardi trim and two layers of siding the nails bend over. I have experimented with galvanized non ringshank nails here with a framing gun but the framer is too tough and the nails too fat. So i use the galvanized non ringshank 2 1/4” nails here made for the hardi gun. The caulk i use also glues everything together. I carry a nail set while doing trim so i can get nails at least flush. Sub flush is ok. Just no reason to sink them too deep as they will not hold as well.
Make sure you get a good saw blade made for hardi. They run about $40 but they last me a dozen homes or more. I lose more to theft. They make some that are under $10 but they do not last. A good blade will keep chipping at a minimum. Also, cut with the table down wind. It will blow the dust away. Otherwise it causes silicosis. Bad stuff.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2017, 10:45:37 AM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Jared Herzog

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« Reply #338 on: November 28, 2017, 10:44:59 AM »
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« Last Edit: November 28, 2017, 11:05:02 AM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #339 on: November 28, 2017, 11:02:30 AM »
Sorry guys. I can not get my post to work. I tried copy and paste. It is only showing a small fraction. At least on my phone. Can someone let me know if you guys can see it in its entirety?

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #340 on: November 28, 2017, 11:29:05 AM »
looks like it worked to me.

Offline Bob Smith

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #341 on: November 28, 2017, 11:42:34 AM »
Nice instructions, looks like it posted fine.

Offline dave945

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #342 on: November 28, 2017, 11:48:33 AM »
I hope that was all of it, my brain is floating just trying to keep up with it so far. Great information, I’m looking at options for residing my new(to me) home and garage. Hardin is my top choice so far, but depends on cost maintenance/painting and other factors. We’ll see.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #343 on: November 28, 2017, 02:28:48 PM »
Jarod, if it was supposed to be 7,645,239 words, then yes it worked.
Underpaid and misunderstood since 2014

Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #344 on: November 28, 2017, 02:38:40 PM »
LOL. Sorry i am not good with describing my thoughts so if there is clarification needed i can do that. I need to find a computerologist. I can not add photos like on Cummins Forum with tapatalk here.

Offline Nate

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #345 on: November 28, 2017, 02:50:13 PM »
Jared, if the photos can wait a little bit, i will upload them for you when i get home this afternoon.  Just PM me your email address and we can make this happen for you.
If you need the promise of eternity in the kingdom of heaven to be a good person … You were never a good person in the first place!

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #346 on: November 28, 2017, 09:04:04 PM »
  Jared. I bought a set of hardie shears to cut straight cuts. Have never used them before but it seems like they are perfect for cutting without dust.  Any experience with those?

Also can you clarify on my question about nailing and the actual moist stop product?


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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline Jared Herzog

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Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #347 on: November 28, 2017, 09:21:50 PM »
823058 is the Lowes item number to a product similar to the moist stop i use. I got mine at McCoys but can not find it on their site. I would have to actually feel the Lowes product to see how similar it is but it will work for the framing under the windows to flash the sill before windows go in and hardi goes on. It will also work on hardi joints. I have seen everything used from tar paper to synthetic roof felt on to and including metal tin or aluminum flashing. I just like the black roll flashing. I do not use house wrap as a flashing. You could also use many of the sticky window tapes also but they get expensive and are overkill.
I have never used or seen anyone use the sheers. I saw those and thought they were for the metal roof. If you like them let me know and i will give them a shot. I just use a diablo hardi saw blade. I try to never have a cut joint showing. I can get them perfectly square but if you look at the factory joint it has a very slight bevel. I hide all cuts under trim.
On the nails yes you can nail every 16” or 32” revealed. Or any pattern you want.  The hardi holds tight under all the trim and with proper nails hidden under the lap. But, i always reveal nail my joints and any irregularity that needs a nail to suck the siding down. Too many nails showing looks bad. It will sort of dimple the piece and will have a nail to caulk. The goal is a perfectly flat wall without any waves.
I also use interior/exterior liquid nails. It holds tight to hardi and i use it on trim pieces that i would shatter with more than one nail. If it oozes out spread the ooze and paint it or caulk over it and paint.
If you use a saw keep the guard blown off with air. The dust clogs its function and before you know it it no longer covers the blade and the saw takes off when you set it down. The saw is fast and allows me to cut a six piece stack at a time. It is however very dusty so wind to my back and cut. No wind and i am working on another area of the house as the dust is overwhelming at times.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2017, 06:45:17 AM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #348 on: November 28, 2017, 09:41:23 PM »
If anyone here wants to use Behr paint at Home Depot PM me. I have an account there which gets 20% off all behr products. It works at any location in the US but it could be verified at customer service before the paint is mixed. I am in no way endorsing them but use them and Lowes and Sherwin Williams. I have accounts at the other places as well but that discount is too hard to convey. The discount is immediate at the register with ProX rewards. You just enter my phone number. I get nothing for this discount. It is all to the purchaser. If this post violates any rules i apologize and i will delete it.

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« Reply #349 on: November 29, 2017, 08:45:35 AM »
Jared, great information and thank you for sharing your experience.

I'm most confused about all the differing and changing thoughts on window installation. Particularly the use of flashing material below the window, whether that be moist stop or other tyvek type products.  If you already have a complete layer of tyvek on the house why and what use is that additional flap of material 12-18 inches below the window?
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

 

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