Hide Site/Bug out Site construction thread, Part 3

[Flyin6]

I found a spade bit that produced a hole which was just a tad bit looser than "snug"

[Flyin6]

And right in the middle of drilling the first hole, my Bosch drill grenaded!!!!!!!!!!!

[Flyin6]

It either stripped the gears in the transmission or the clutch let go. It won't transfer but a little torque, then it starts slipping!

Grrrrrr.......

[Bigdave_185]

Desalt 20v brushless Lipo battery here you come http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/power-tools/drills/drills-and-hammer-drills/20v-max-xr-lithium-ion-brushless-3speed-drilldriver-kit/dcd991p2


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[OldKooT]

I have a 20V Dewalt like that I have been using for my drywall project. Screwing into the petrified fir my home is framed in it's taking a beating. I am having to use HD square drive screws and that little Dewalt is getting it done. So far... Impressed. FWIW

[Flyin6]

Desalt 20v brushless Lipo battery here you come http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/power-tools/drills/drills-and-hammer-drills/20v-max-xr-lithium-ion-brushless-3speed-drilldriver-kit/dcd991p2


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Dave you own that?
I have a 20Volt Porter Cable down at ma place, but use the Bosch up here.

You use the Dewalt?

Norm is using it screwing into steel (Old hardwood) which is a pretty good endorsement...

[Flyin6]

I'm gonna pull this one down, see if I can fix it. Maybe fix a rail to it while it's apart so I can add attachments...;-)

[stlaser]

Don I've been running dewalt for last 16 years. My 18v setup built one home & first shop then remodeled my farmhouse. Tool dealer (fastenal has this deal right now btw) to trade in old dewalts  for new 20v dewalts so I did and had maybe $150 in new setup which was hammer drill / screw gun combo & cordless reciprocating saw. I've since added more tools (jig saw & spot light more batteries & weedeater) but the new drill built my multi tier deck and finished my garage. Also doing basement at this time & no issue. The fact I ran my other old units for years and then they gave me a huge discount for being loyal on a new set is pretty stand up imo.

[Sammconn]

Like Shawn, I have bled yellow for a lot of years. My original 18 volt set is 12-14 years old. Can't remember. I've replaced batteries over the years, but the tools have fell from roofs, decks, docks you name it. The saws-all worked under water to cut bent pipes off of the dock this spring. I wasn't fond f it, but it didn't care.
I too recently came on a good deal...and have some 20 volt stuff too.
I can't arrest to its durability like the 18 stuff, but it sure feels the same.

[Bigdave_185]

I have the dewalt combo mini impact and drill.  It is hands down my favorite tool on the bench. 


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[Bigdave_185]

This kit to be exact, http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/power-tools/combo-kits/20v-max-xr-lithium-ion-brushless-premium-hammerdrill--impact-driver-combo-kit-50ah/dck299p2I bought the non brushless and it was garbage, dewalt also makes three lines.   The homedepo store sells the bottom end, the contractor grade weighs more but has metal parts, then they are owned by Stanley/black n deck or so those fall into the third.    Well worth the cost


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[stlaser]

I have the dewalt combo mini impact and drill.  It is hands down my favorite tool on the bench. 


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I have that mini impact driver, it's tough...

[Bigdave_185]

I built my whole deck off of one battery with those lithium batteries.   


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[Flyin6]

OK, Dewalt 991...I'm off to the races...

[Wilbur]

Ditto DeWalt....I also think Porter Cable stuff is good but I like the yellow.

[Flyin6]

Ditto DeWalt....I also think Porter Cable stuff is good but I like the yellow.

Ditto DeWalt....I also think Porter Cable stuff is good but I like the yellow.

I've had this old Porter Cable 18 Volt drill since 2002 or 03. It has so many miles on it that the chuck stem wobbles big time, but it still runs a screw.
Because of that one, I purchased a new PC 20 volt drill and hammer drill set. It is running like a top, I'm completely satisfied, but that drill is farm side, not here.

[Dawg25385]

Dewalt 18v xrp is what I have. Extremely satisfied. Love em, they're workhorses, heavy duty. Sawzall will tear through a battery, but the drill and driver are money. Cordless circ saw is great too for small stuff. I just have the nicad batteries too.


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[Flyin6]

I picked up the Dewalt 996 drill, couldn't find a 991. Got the compatible 1/4" impact driver as well

996 has a three speed trans and the 650 watt motor. But, came with 3 ah batteries, not the 5ah. I suppose I can add a 5ah bat to the collection in time. I'll just add all dewalt 20VDC tools from here on so the batteries will be compatible

[Sammconn]

I believe...that the 120 volt stuff is also compatible with the 20 volt.
They have some fancy 60/20 volt battery. I haven't looked into it much, as I'm having a hard time with abandoning my 18 volt stuff.
They have limited tools that run 120 volt, table saw, 1/2" monster drill (60 I think), chop saw???
Saw an ad for it but didn't want to investigate too far.

So where I'm going, I think the batteries from the big volts tools will also parallel down to the 20 volt stuff. I think it's a connection difference where they connect in series on one set of contacts for 60, and parallel on another for 20.

[Dawg25385]

I picked up the Dewalt 996 drill, couldn't find a 991. Got the compatible 1/4" impact driver as well

996 has a three speed trans and the 650 watt motor. But, came with 3 ah batteries, not the 5ah. I suppose I can add a 5ah bat to the collection in time. I'll just add all dewalt 20VDC tools from here on so the batteries will be compatible

I think you made a good buy. Nice that they make the "big" and "little" batteries too. Lithium Ion is the bees knees too from what i've read.

I'm eyeballing the bosch 12v kit, for smaller projects and finish work, as my 18v XRP NiCad batteries are monsters. But they'll drive 3" deck screws like nobody's business.

[JR]

Well I'm a porter cable guy. I killed a few Gobi went to dealt 20v but went to porter over price and availability

I has not been disappointed

[Bear9350]

All the tools I run are Milwaukee.  My grinders have a lot of hard miles on them with 0 issues so I keep going back to them when I get a new tool.  My little 1/4" impact basically built my house.  They drive screws so much better then a regular old drill.  I'm betting that after you drive a few screws with that impact you will be thinking about picking one up for the farm also.

[Flyin6]

I LIKE THAT DRILL!

Thanks Dave for pointing me toward that awesome drill. Like I said I ended up with the 996, not the 991. They are both the absolute top of the line drills. What's that cool way the chuck depresses a bit when you push it into the work?

That's cool!

[Flyin6]

Oh, and mine can be used as a hammer as well!

Just turn it to hammer and beat the heck out of nails and things!

Or maybe that means something else...?  ;-))

[Flyin6]

It made quick work of those CPVC holes I had been drilling.

[Flyin6]

I staked the alignment dowel with a single screw. I pushed it apart and back together several times. The concept works!

[Flyin6]

Next up, I trimmed out the doors. I created a 3/4" flange that I'll attach some weatherstrip to to seal up those gaps

[Flyin6]

Then I fitted a 2", then a 3/4" piece of foam board to the inside of the door

[Flyin6]

Then the other door

[Flyin6]

Next up I insulated one of the roof panels

[Flyin6]

Using standard R13 bat, the space was filled nicely

[Flyin6]

I then covered the underside (Inside) surface with a piece of rigid foam board

[Flyin6]

Flipping all that business over I attached the roof panels, end gap sealers first then two poly carbonate panels

[Flyin6]

I used an overlap and some sealer/adhesive on the second panel

[Flyin6]

I finished the night with adding on the side trim piece glued to the roof, and overlapping the wall

[stlaser]

More pictures please.....

[Sammconn]

You're going to love that drill. Not sure which I have but its one of those two and it rocks.
My 18 volt one I drilled more concrete that I care to remember.
Steel gearcase gets hot after a few hours, but it never quit.

[JR]

Better made than many homes!

[Flyin6]

Still loving that drill!

[Flyin6]

Finished the other roof panel

[Flyin6]

This small gap will get some insulation and a top cover of the roof panel stuff when it is stitched together on site

[Flyin6]

Added in the soffets

[Flyin6]

And it is about to turn gray in color

[Flyin6]

1st coat is on

[Flyin6]

Then the second and the third

[Flyin6]

Drying nicely, will get a mossy green on the trim panels

[KensAuto]

Don, did you say that this was for your water storage? I would assume you'll disassemble to transport?

[stlaser]

I used an overlap and some sealer/adhesive on the second panel

I always thought you screwed the ridge top not the valley?

[Bear9350]

I always thought you screwed the ridge top not the valley?

This topic is typically debated by even professional installers.  Different manufacturers recommend different methods also.  Generally steel is fastened in the flat.  This allows the ridges to compress and expand during heat cycles.  If you have ever spent time in a steel building with the sun beating on it you have probably heard the steel popping from expansion.

Seeing as this isn't steel the recommended method may be different.

[Superwhdm]

 Don, that's a dream scape you've got my friend.  Good times.  Build looks great!