Author Topic: The Bus (Read 182383 times)

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #550 on:** October 26, 2018, 09:35:51 PM »

So I had a mil light for a while and assumed it was the glow plug circuit again. And then I was losing power steering fluid too. Bought a hydroboost and it’s been sitting in the shop for 6 months as I haven’t had time to get to it with all the work on the casita.

So I dropped it at a buddies house who’s a mechanic for Fed Ex and he’s the only guy more anal than me. He found it was the hose and not the hydroboost. Then he found the boot from the air intake pipe to intake horn was deteriorating along with the air filter and a few fuel hoses.

Pulled codes and found the pressure regulator was stuck wide open. Now I know why it was running a bit rough and lopey. Got that replaced and the hoses and new filter. The silicone boot I ordered was the wrong size so back to the drawing board there.

Also tested the fog lamp switch and found it to be bad but it’s discontinued. The LBZ switch is available but with a different harness and the plug is $125 from the dealer in addition to the $75 switch. Uh no. Not even for the guy who is so anal

Will figure something else out.

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #551 on:** October 26, 2018, 09:46:56 PM »

A lot of times those switches on the left side just need re soldered. You could crack it open and look at the circuit card. Might be a free fix

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JR · « **Reply #552 on:** October 26, 2018, 10:36:48 PM »

Sounds you actually got off easy. I still don't have dash lights.

rpar86 · « **Reply #553 on:** October 26, 2018, 10:52:18 PM »

This work for ya Charles?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401585758970

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #554 on:** October 26, 2018, 10:58:16 PM »

Thanks Ryan. Already got one off eBay but mine has cargo lamp and fog

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1999-2001-CHEVY-SILVERADO-TRUCK-FOG-CARGO-LIGHT-LAMP-SWITCH-SILVERADO-15735837-/381147084568?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1

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KensAuto · « **Reply #555 on:** October 27, 2018, 01:43:42 AM »

A little cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PT1326-Original-Equipment-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000C9S52Y/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=Silverado%202500%20HD%7C494&Year=2005%7C2005&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D7096C-Original-Equipment-Switch/dp/B0013FXXGE?keywords=D7096C&qid=1540618947&s=Automotive&sr=1-2&ref=sr_1_2

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #556 on:** October 27, 2018, 07:30:08 AM »

What am I looking at Ken? Is that the switch for the 2006 and a matching pig tail?

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KensAuto · « **Reply #557 on:** October 27, 2018, 10:20:42 AM »

Yeah
.. problem is, I think all the wires are white.... typical Delco.....so I looked for a connector wire code in Mitchell and couldn't find it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #558 on:** October 27, 2018, 11:17:32 AM »

I have the factory shop manuals. The switch only completes the ground to the bcm to so I suspect it’s not that complicated

I have had success in using mouser to find the pins and connectors. It’s hard because their interface is complicated but you can find most anything. When I did all the wiring for the add ons for my lml I found all the factory stuff which kept splices to near zero

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #559 on:** March 11, 2019, 08:02:33 AM »

Well been putting miles on this thing to the tune of about 12-15k a year. When I bought it in 2012 it had 125k on it. Now has 176k. In its earlier configuration it didn’t get much use, especially before we got the weekend place.

Knock wood, its been pretty reliable, which is good since its been nearly 2 years that i have been working on the casita. I’m soooo ready to get that project finished. I need to find time to do a few things to the truck, but for now, just keeping it running.

Installed the new silicone boot and clamps on the intake. Had to buy a universal 4 to 3 inch reducer coupling since AFE no longer makes the parts for this old set up on my truck.

Yesterday, took all of 15 minutes to change the external spin on and 6 qts or so of Dex VI. Couple weeks earlier I changed the oil with some Amsoil and amsoil filter.

Still have the grizzly locker sitting on the counter. May get to that this week. We’ll see. With spring here I’m doing a bit of cleaning up as well as working to finish the casita.

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JR · « **Reply #560 on:** March 11, 2019, 12:14:06 PM »

My o6 has 165 on it now, runs great with a new PPEI tune, just have to get the TCM in it now.

Met a guy this weekend at the Estate sale. Had an 02 with 65k on it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #561 on:** March 16, 2019, 07:36:38 PM »

Well, Think I may have just scored some LLY Heads and valve covers for $250

As soon as the never ending casita project is over I can start focusing on building the frankenmotor LB7 block I have and some LLY heads. Nothing outrageous just studded bottom and top with Wagler rods and compounds with 50% injectors and a stroker CP3

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JR · « **Reply #562 on:** March 16, 2019, 10:12:14 PM »

Pushing 600+ then or a tad more?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #563 on:** March 16, 2019, 10:33:55 PM »

Goal would be 700-750 RWHP reliable, driveable and towable. Trans is already built for it. It will handle 850

JR · « **Reply #564 on:** March 16, 2019, 10:39:20 PM »

Sounds like fun.

Trans build probably in the future for mine too. Just got new tuning and a re-gear coming.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #565 on:** March 18, 2019, 01:02:12 PM »

Holy crap!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #566 on:** August 02, 2019, 08:21:36 PM »

Well. Just to update the thread.

Channeling my inner Don

yukon compared to the G80

Bearings pressed and ring on

.005 matching the stocker

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Nate · « **Reply #567 on:** August 03, 2019, 12:20:56 AM »

So what happened....and to which part?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #568 on:** August 03, 2019, 08:49:29 AM »

Quote from: Nate on August 03, 2019, 12:20:56 AM

So what happened....and to which part?

He got "Grizzled up!"

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #569 on:** August 04, 2019, 12:11:50 AM »

So I was unhappy with the g80 although it was “working as intended” it was not sufficient

Reusing the old gear and bolts I swapped the Yukon Grizzly from Randy’s Ring Ana Pinion (thanks Tate)
Using new carrier bearings.

Pressing those on was easy. Then after fighting the ring gear to go on the locker I put it in the oven for about 20 minutes and dropped it right on. Cleaned the threads on the ring gear and the bolts and re used them with red loctite. Holding the carrier by pressing the case in between the plate and jack in the press allowed me to torque them down without much drama.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #570 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:03:19 AM »

Resurrecting to update a few things.

AC bit the dust. Dessicant bag in the receiver exploded and took out the compressor. Rather than take chances, I replaced everything except the evaporator core since that’s a dash disassembly. OEM compressor, dryer, condenser and hoses. It took 3 quarts of flush to get the evaporator squeaky clean. I also did a complete cooling stack cleaning and pulled the radiator to straighten all the fins by hand. Added a new coolant reservoir and a new S&B intake system while I was in it.

Most recently our good friend from Randy’s Ring and Pinion, El Tate, hooked me up with a sweet set up for upper control arms from Icon Dynamics.

When I rebuilt the suspension I went first class on everything….except the UCAs, which were OEM Delco and lasted about 60k miles and the ball joints were so loose that hitting rutted pavement on asphalt would make it almost change lanes.

Not wanting to take any chances, I pulled it down and put new Moog lower ball joints, greased brake caliper slides and then replaced the upppers.

The uppers were well made and included urethane bushings, which now match the energy suspension urethane bushings on the lower control arms.

With two new Ridge Grapplers on the front and a new alignment its an amazing difference. While you do feel a little more road feedback from the urethane uppers, I can say that the initial tip in to the corners is more accurate at speed. Those soft bushings would lag the steering input and then correct mid corner requiring slight steering adjustment. These new arms point the truck where your steering input tells it and requires no mid turn adjustment.

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My tank of nitrogen came in handy for flushing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #571 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:09:49 AM »

NICE WORK red!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #572 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:11:37 AM »

Check out these bad boys.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #573 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:19:53 AM »

And I forgot while I was in there I upgraded the trans cooler

That was the XDP direct fit. Seems to keep trans about 15 degrees cooler on average.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #574 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:23:39 AM »

And I got rid of the flea bay HIDs and went with GTR Ultra 2.0 LED low beams. Honestly they are too bright. People hate me at night. But on back country roads they are awesome

Keep in mind the before and after are 35hid to these LEDs so these things are BRIGHT

These also allow for clocking to make sure you get more focused light output.
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Sammconn · « **Reply #575 on:** May 09, 2023, 11:06:14 AM »

Nice work Tex.

Do you have the cognito steering brace kit on there?
I added it to mine and it has saved my front end and tires significantly since install.
I used to NEED an allignmnet minimum twice a year and am now three years from last allignment.

I generally don’t sell parts but this kit has saved me tires.
And the steering reacts instantly now.

stlaser · « **Reply #576 on:** May 09, 2023, 11:08:05 AM »

Nice job

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #577 on:** May 09, 2023, 11:13:25 AM »

Quote from: Sammconn on May 09, 2023, 11:06:14 AM

Nice work Tex.

Do you have the cognito steering brace kit on there?
I added it to mine and it has saved my front end and tires significantly since install.
I used to NEED an allignmnet minimum twice a year and am now three years from last allignment.

I generally don’t sell parts but this kit has saved me tires.
And the steering reacts instantly now.

When I did the suspension rebuild I went with the Kryptonite Stage Three full kit with brace. Very beefy and solid. That and a new red top steering box and it steers well.

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JR · « **Reply #578 on:** May 09, 2023, 12:27:26 PM »

Nice work. My front end is done and what a difference it makes.

AC is a must but I would advise a sock over the air cleaner. The crap it catches is crazy!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #579 on:** May 09, 2023, 02:15:01 PM »

Charles what shocks did you mount on that? Did you do some foxes or something similar ?
Scratch that. Tapatalk refreshed all your photos

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #580 on:** September 05, 2023, 07:24:27 PM »

Little update here. Been pushing fluid out the reservoir, aka head gasket failure.

A rebuild is in my future. Turned the tunes down to stock and baby it and I think I can get a few thousand miles out of it.

Know that I want a solid stand so plan to build a stand that mounts to both engine mounts and will allow me to flip end over end and work on rear plate too.

Have casters and the steel for the frame and just need the nesting round tubes. Started breaking down the old core that I’ve had laying around. Will use it to mockup the stand and give me some better working knowledge of how the D max goes together.

This will likely be a mild build. I could just do the head gaskets, but the oil pan is leaking bad enough I need to address it.

For sure: ARP Studs on top and bottom. Wagler street rods. Stroker CP3, upgraded drop in turbo.

Likely: 30% over injectors. L5P Oil Cooler.

Maybe: New cast iron heads with injector cups built in. Exhaust manifolds and up pipes.

In any event it will be a long process as work and kids are keeping me super busy.

Will clean and paint the frame from the cab forward and likely send the built transmission off for a freshening with new clutches as it has about 90k on it and I want this to be the last thing I touch in the next 5 years.

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JR · « **Reply #581 on:** September 05, 2023, 07:55:47 PM »

Sounds like a little more than mild.

Should be nice. PPE manifolds or the 1/2 price knockoff stuff.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #582 on:** September 06, 2023, 10:47:15 AM »

Is that your actual motor in the pics?
You already removed it?

KensAuto · « **Reply #583 on:** September 06, 2023, 01:34:29 PM »

From headlights to an engine? That escalated quickly

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rpar86 · « **Reply #584 on:** September 06, 2023, 11:41:07 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on September 06, 2023, 10:47:15 AM

Is that your actual motor in the pics?
You already removed it?

It’s a core he has had sitting around for a couple years.

stlaser · « **Reply #585 on:** September 07, 2023, 08:20:21 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on September 06, 2023, 01:34:29 PM

From headlights to an engine? That escalated quickly

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No different than me spotting the H for President bumper sticker then you moving her in……

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #586 on:** September 09, 2023, 12:14:01 PM »

Quote from: JR on September 05, 2023, 07:55:47 PM

Sounds like a little more than mild.

Should be nice. PPE manifolds or the 1/2 price knockoff stuff.

The bottom and fuel will be enough to handle 700RWP but I’ll keep the tunes a little more mild.

You really only have one chance while it is out to keep the bottom together even it you decide to turn it up later. Manifolds, pipes and even injectors can be done with the motor in the truck. I don’t ever want to have to pull the motor again. Bottom should be good to 1000, but I’ll never run it that hot. I want another 200k out of it.

Will be interesting to see if I can get away without boring the cylinders and new pistons. maybe a slight hone and new rings. Still have some research to do there. Certainly a new set of micrometers is in my future as I tear it down and measure everything.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #587 on:** September 09, 2023, 12:14:42 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on September 06, 2023, 01:34:29 PM

From headlights to an engine? That escalated quickly

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Isnt that the truth! But par for the RMTW course…

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JR · « **Reply #588 on:** September 09, 2023, 12:31:18 PM »

Sounds like good target.

Sammconn · « **Reply #589 on:** September 09, 2023, 05:34:05 PM »

I’ll be shocked if you need to bore.
Based on my 300 k donor.

Buy once cry once. Like you’re planning.
I don’t know enough about the LB7 but I think the head upgrade you’re speaking of is money well spent to upgrade to the more reliable newer style.

It’s just bolts and bits. Have fun with the oil change…

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #590 on:** November 04, 2023, 08:50:36 PM »

Well got the core broken down and loaded up to head to the machine shop. I’ll see what they have to say about the core block and crank. If its solid I may just build that one to cut down on the down time.

Bearings are standard and everything looked pretty good. I left it outside and the cylinders have some surface rust so they’ll probably want to bore 20 over.

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JR · « **Reply #591 on:** November 05, 2023, 01:54:05 PM »

Light reading?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #592 on:** November 05, 2023, 08:47:16 PM »

Quote from: JR on November 05, 2023, 01:54:05 PM

Light reading?

Yeah, as expensive as this is going to be, I need to make sure its done right.

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JR · « **Reply #593 on:** November 06, 2023, 01:36:44 AM »

Couldn't agree more. I see LBZ engines all the time on FB. Might have to pull the trigger, but figure I have a good 100k left in mine.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #594 on:** November 07, 2023, 10:51:33 AM »

Dropped the block and crank off this morning. only thing they don’t have is torque plates for the 6.6. I’d like to have it but its hard to find a good machine shop in Houston with all the right stuff and the experience

It’ll be 20 over, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs , line honed, crank polished, lightly decked.

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JR · « **Reply #595 on:** November 07, 2023, 12:27:38 PM »

Don't think the factory uses torque plates, should be good.

EL TATE · « **Reply #596 on:** November 30, 2023, 09:49:13 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on November 07, 2023, 10:51:33 AM

Dropped the block and crank off this morning. only thing they don’t have is torque plates for the 6.6. I’d like to have it but its hard to find a good machine shop in Houston with all the right stuff and the experience

It’ll be 20 over, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs , line honed, crank polished, lightly decked.

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Hey Tex, i'm sure you know all about this but you're retroing the crankshaft dowel pin to prevent shear while you're in there right?

Sammconn · « **Reply #597 on:** November 30, 2023, 03:04:07 PM »

The shear quite easily as I found out when the “left hand” threads on my oil pump turned out to be right hand. Luckily I noticed the misalignment occur or I would have been in trouble.

I don’t believe I’ve heard of a lot of in service failures in the Duramax, but I haven’t looked either.
If there is a solution now is definitely the time for you to address.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #598 on:** November 30, 2023, 08:30:58 PM »

Yes. The plan is to key the crank and cam. When the machine shop is done with it I’ll take it to another shop just to have them check the work.

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EL TATE · « **Reply #599 on:** December 01, 2023, 04:46:15 PM »

smart man.