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Messages - swbhobie16
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1201
« on: February 02, 2016, 09:45:10 PM »
now we know why you've been absent the last week or so. glad to hear all is as well as it could be. be safe out there. get in touch when you dig everyone out and the global warming kicks in to melt that mess away.
1202
« on: February 02, 2016, 01:50:18 PM »
I'm ready to have all the mechanical stuff out of the way and get down to body and electrical work. I'll be most thrilled when the rolling chassis and drivetrain is complete
1203
« on: February 02, 2016, 08:20:40 AM »
Coming along nicely.
thank you sir Great project. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.
you and my bad both! hahah
1204
« on: February 02, 2016, 08:19:43 AM »
Very nice work.
You going to add a cross member under the motor mounts? From the end that frame looks thin and would want the 12v to twist it.
we've considered a crossmember and have plenty of room to make one out of 4" channel, but that frame is deceivingly thin. (much thicker than it looks.. not looks heavy duty and really just a tin can) it's fully boxed with what looks to be 2 channel frames opposing each other that are 1/8" full. we may just do one and be sure though. it'll be a bolt in piece either way. want to have easy access to the oil pan for maintenance if required
1205
« on: February 01, 2016, 08:21:58 PM »
1206
« on: February 01, 2016, 02:21:10 PM »
Hmm. maybe a 6.2 liter oil burner?
6.2s would have a hood emblem that said such.. don't see one visible. drop a few cylinders and cubic inches and that gets my vote ;D
1207
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:24:33 AM »
I would venture to guess that the civilian market took the military product and modified it to their needs.....
i would have said the sam thing, except there are only 'removal of' pieces from jeep and not 'additions to'. the a pillar has been whacked off the civilian models to add the flat dash replacement, hinges and flat windshield. and where the fender wells bolt in the jeep there is a vertical 1" thick piece of folded body that protrudes from the firewall with 2 nutserts, they have been crudely bent over and caulked to allow for the larger wheel well to bolt directly to the firewall. they are slight differences, but it really looks like a J20 with a hacked windshield and bent body folds on the firewire to mash those 37s in there. hahah and the more we looked at it the more we thought 'man.. too bad we aren't building a waggy, this one would be perfect' the jeep guy we get lots of parts from bought it from a military guy who had the entire drive train rebuilt, POR15 frame, ARB lockers front and rear in the 44s, everything. and decided to take it apart to fix the body. got in over his head, decided to move, and sold it.. i think the plan of attack is to cut the back cab portion and the flat dash/windshield hinges off the M715, but the waggy floor 1-2" longer in the rear than the kaiser, fold up 90* to help with some rust repair that will be cut out of the vertical back portion of the cab, slip it over the door jambs and be on our merry way.. more posts to come soon I'm hoping..
1208
« on: January 14, 2016, 07:35:02 PM »
1975 wagoneer body. nearly rust free. identical floorpan and firewall as the kaiser. best i can figure is the military took a J20 pickup truck and 'modified' it to be an M715, so the kaiser-specific stuff will get transported over to the almost flawless wagoneer tub (basically the fold down windshield and cab back with soft top mounts) pressure washed and degreased the whole thing    rockers are rock solid inside and out. underside still had undercoating on it. really the worst part of the whole thing.. it all only needs a wire wheel and lizard skin/truck bed liner and rust preventer. 
1209
« on: January 13, 2016, 08:25:35 AM »
think those springs will work for this build..? or should i try and track down a set of 1st gen cummins springs? (both are 48" bolt to bolt)
just one mechanical piece short of having the drive train.. hahah
1210
« on: January 12, 2016, 09:05:38 PM »
he's only trying to help..
1211
« on: January 12, 2016, 07:22:25 PM »
drivers side engine mount  passenger side engine mount  front position rear spring hanger (passenger side)  rear position rear spring hanger (passenger side)  oil pan clearance (way more than i expected)  spring deflection (factory CUCV springs.. anyone know the rating on these??)  overall shot of today 
1212
« on: January 11, 2016, 08:10:50 PM »
spring hangers are painted and bolted in place. axles, springs and spring perches are all painted. (rear perches are not to be welded in place until transfer case and drive shafts are in place to set angles). mounts will be tacked in place tmrw, engine removed and fully welded. along with (hopefully) axles put under the truck. all that's really left to fab is the transmission support and t case cross member..
1213
« on: January 08, 2016, 08:02:57 PM »
vintage..? its a complete set of axles from an '86 CUCV truck with the 6.2 detroit and TH400 tranny.
4.56 gears. has a detroit locker in it as well.
1214
« on: January 07, 2016, 08:42:19 PM »
that's not me. hahah. dude worked for 25-30 years at Goodyear and smokes like a freight train. I think the glass may be helping his health lol. and the mounts will be welded on. just cleaning off just enough powder coating to weld up, clean up nicely, prime and paint the crap out of it with gloss black to match the coating.
guess I figured they would be easier and possibly stronger welded on and than bolted on.
1215
« on: January 07, 2016, 06:24:09 PM »
1216
« on: January 07, 2016, 01:42:50 AM »
I'm hoping to get some decent ones of the engine mounts all welded up and the axles once they get cleaned and painted. once it's able to be rolled around, I'm going to push/pull it outside for some rolling chassi glamor shots. hahah. then, it's in to replacing the floor pans in the cab, undercoating and heat insulating ('boom mat' potentially). that's really all the body work that is needed on this truck. to be a '67, it's astonishingly straight and rust free.
1217
« on: January 06, 2016, 09:13:35 PM »
its getting closer..  engine is "in its place" in the frame relative to the body and core support, motor mounts are cut out and almost completely cleaned up from the plasma. frame needs to be cleaned up and mounts welded on. getting the axles media blasted tmrw, so they should be painted and mounted by the weekend, maybe the first of the week. shooting for it to being a rolling chassis by next week
1218
« on: January 05, 2016, 10:52:53 PM »
when we got ours running, we only had 2 rubber hoses (supply to lift pump and return from IP) running into a 1 gallon jug of diesel. it was literally sitting in a wooden cradle in the driveway. may could try the same, at least to rule out your pre lift pump filters causing low fuel pressure..
That is my next step. All this talk now has me wondering about that fuel filter I selected. Maybe it's restrictive, who knows???
on our 4bt, 6bt and 175 kW Volvo penta generators (somewhere in the 8-10liter range) we run wix 33357 on the cummins and a 33357 and 33358 in series on the 175 kws. they are all block mounted, post lift pump. I think it goes back to them being able to push/maintain more pressure than the lift pump can suck through 2 filters and an electric pump (if I remembered your setup correctly)
1219
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:41:06 PM »
when we got ours running, we only had 2 rubber hoses (supply to lift pump and return from IP) running into a 1 gallon jug of diesel. it was literally sitting in a wooden cradle in the driveway. may could try the same, at least to rule out your pre lift pump filters causing low fuel pressure..
1220
« on: January 04, 2016, 07:42:23 PM »
the 2nd gen mounts are exactly 4" wide, so i may end up doing a cross frame tie in from one to the other, under the oil pan. making them bolt up to remove if needed access to the oilman. and I've seen 2-3 other builds of kaisers and old dodge crew cabs that have the same mount design and no cross frame tie in. i hope I'm not speaking too soon, but it seems as if it'll be more than enough. hahah
I'm sure you'll figure out a way for that 6bt in an M37.. and if not you can always send that bad boy east. hahah
1221
« on: January 04, 2016, 06:28:56 PM »
yea.. she's snug. thats for sure. hahah. we still have to drop the back of the engine down just a bit, so that should give us some more clearance between the trans and trans tunnel. but front to back, i think its going to be just fine. its almost as if it was made for it.. minus the fact that we will have to use electric pusher fans instead of a mechanical puller. since my dad doesn't want a huge jacked up kaiser, we are trying to keep it as low as possible, which mean pushing the engine up in the bay as far as possible to clear the dana 60 and springs and crossover steering. (next hurdle)
1222
« on: January 04, 2016, 05:40:00 PM »
1223
« on: December 17, 2015, 08:46:49 AM »
the 1st gens hold up/dampen better..? if that's the case.. 'Norm..?!'
1224
« on: December 16, 2015, 09:57:23 PM »
That design type keeps showing up. I guess the early mounts are the way to go for most.
Never seen with a slot for drop in though, hmmm.
it really depends on when/what I find. I currently have 2nd gen mounts. but I think is possible to find 1st gens easy. and I think the slots are like that on 2nd gen frame mounts.. unless I looked at something wrong. I guess ill see what income up with when I get back home later this week. frame has been powder coated. picking it up either tomorrow or Friday. will have some pics up soon
1225
« on: December 14, 2015, 03:33:58 PM »
seems as if it went from a 'ram charger build page' to a 'slam-Don-because-he-hasnt-done-a-simple-test-to-finished-SqD page' hahaha
1226
« on: December 14, 2015, 08:19:15 AM »
this is what I've come up with, design wise, if the late 80s dodge 4x4 doesn't work out. and/or I'm unable to locate some 1st gen cummins motor mounts.. we currently have 2nd gen mounts on the engine.. 
1227
« on: December 13, 2015, 08:08:34 AM »
Checking out a 91 cherokee now. 1300 obo been on cl for 2 weeks just needs a battery/alt so he says and drive home. About 75 miles north.
Anything to look out for like not that tranny or motor?
I6-auto-new rear and high miles from being towed
im a jeep guy. love mine to death. i have an 89 XJ that i swapped a SBC 355 into with 700r4 trans, locked dana 44 rear etc. sometimes i wish i would have kept the I6 that was in it. my brother has a 90 2 door with 3" lift, 33s and 270K miles. thing runs like a top. doesn't get the best mileage, but he drives it like 20 miles a week to and from base. came with custom stainless rocker panels and rear bumper with a square tube roof rack. he bought it for 1400 and the only thing he's done is change valve cover gasket. it has a small leaking rear main seal (99% of 4.0s do) and 40 psi cold oil pressure, 20 psi warm (running down the road) and almost 5-10 at idle. but if you were to listen to it with no gauge, you'd have no idea. it purs. no knock, tip bang, slap at all. its wild. my dad bought a 94 with a funky motor. i believe blown head gasket, bad freeze plugs and an assortment of other issues, but it still ran just fine and still got 16 ish mpg. (it was a poorly maintained vehicle, being my brothers mother in laws for 10+ years.) friend of mine wrecked his 99 cherokee that we had just swapped a 130K mile motor into that was perfect. a deal was struck and guns exchanged. the next day the motor was sitting in my dads cherokee. literally.. 10 hrs to swap the old out and new in. great throttle response, no leaks, great pressure. and 17+ mpg with 2" budget boost and 31" ATs
1228
« on: December 12, 2015, 08:45:47 AM »
That'll be one "torquey table" :o
thats what I'm going for. i just want the block cleaned, painted probably cummins red. machined surfaces bare metal. cleaned aluminum oil filter housing and then tack all the gears from the oil pump, cam, crank, PS and IP in place on front. pistons sitting in the cylinders 'where they're supposed to be' but not connected to the crank or connecting rods. then a 2'x4' glass top to finish it off.
1229
« on: December 12, 2015, 08:24:03 AM »
looking back through the 100s of pages of the build, i noticed you have a fuel filter tucked up under the drivers side next to the trans. I'm wondering if thats whats causing your low fuel pressure issues. the stock pumps, even the higher HP ones, are designed (just from looking at various cummins engines) to be before the filters with only a pre filter screen to keep large mess out. the thought being you can 'push' water farther uphill than you can 'pull' it, and with greater pressure. almost wonder if you could move the filter head to a higher (and more out-of-the-way location for sticks and such) to the firewall somewhere, post pump, and solve your issue. I've even found a filter head that is heated with coolant from the engine. ill have to find it again, but its a bio fuel conversion favorite since it requires no electrical components to heat the fuel and uses standard fuel filters that can be had at any auto store and bought in bulk.
would hate to see you roll over a rock in a creek bed or primitive IED, hole in the sheet metal filter and leave you stranded in at the wrong time. hahah
plus, laying on the ground in the mud to change a filter just doesn't sound like a lot of fun. pop the hood and spin her off, loosely screw it back, prime the pump and fill the filter. done
1230
« on: December 12, 2015, 08:12:28 AM »
thats what i would love to have. don't get me wrong, i love my power stroke, but something about those old square bodies makes for a ton of room inside. maybe its less vertical curve from rocker to roofline, or thinner doors or something. they just feel huge inside. and to have one with a 'primative' drive train with all the extra frills on the inside a new one has would just be too cool. can't go to the lot and drive one away with the stroke of the pen.. which i love.
1231
« on: December 11, 2015, 06:22:28 PM »
Seth, welcome to RMTW. Thanks for sharing. We all look forward to hearing more about your endeavors and hope you don't let said knuckleheads wear you down.
believe you me, any and all forms of entertainment are appreciated while traveling. I'm hoping this (mostly the kaiser, mine runs) project takes off soon and is under its own power by the time summer rolls around.
1233
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:40:38 PM »
Really Nice!
they sit rreeeeealllly nice.. watched TV a few nights in them. hahah
1234
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:29:52 PM »
Many who have done this use a OEM Dodge 4x4 engine mount cross-member. It fits very well....keep in mind that picture is with a spring over.
Wish we were closer, I probably have a half dozen of those transfer cases in stock somewhere in the barn LoL
Looks like a fun project to watch...
so you're tellin me that that is an unmodified 4x4 dodge crossmember? nothing else needed, apart from 1st gen motor mounts? we are also doing a SOA as well, but not quite as high on the lift. and you have a couple of those cases..?! if you're not sky high on prices, I've looked up shipping on them and they're about $150.. if you have the complete set (all 3 pieces) id be happy to liberate one from you.. ;D
1235
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:25:01 PM »
sweet score from a guy on CL pulled from a mid 00s durango. he didn't have any in stock, but told him what i was looking for and he said he'd keep an eye out for me. a week later he calls and lets me know he may have some, snaps some pics and away we go. dunno what he put on them to clean them up so nicely, but they look brand new. don't even look like anything has ever been set on them.   both heated (got both factory switches as well) both powered
1236
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:13:54 PM »
running into something that sounds almost identical to yours. waiting on pins and needles to see what comes of this. haha
Well the good news is you'll get plenty of practice working and tuning that Cummins!
i both hope and don't hope so! hahah. fortunately, as soon as i get back from NYC, having a guy i met on CL come to the house with fancy schmancy tools to help set timing, pop test injectors (90 horse aftermarkets) etc. he worked as a diesel tech for 25 years and teaches diesel mechanics at a local community college.. said he could hook me up (also buying a cummins block to build into a coffee table..)
1237
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:05:44 PM »
not a problem.. just glad to have made a contribution.
may have set the bar too high.. hahah
I've just been snooping around the internetzz for awhile with jeep stuff (V8 swap into an XJ and such..) and found it very useful.
1238
« on: December 11, 2015, 04:02:59 PM »
You're brand new here, what, 1 day old and already have two project trucks going!
WHOA
I can just imagine what your contributions will look like in a year.
Guess I had better go buy a bigger web site!
Welcome to the fray!
they've been going on for a while (the dodge has at least, kaiser has just gotten under way. hahah) I'm banning myself- I deleted your sign-up yesterday cause your IP address was from Africa, Carribien and/or Middle East............sorry........glad you resigned-up! Going to my corner now and putting on my pointy cap! :(
no worries, ida blocked me as well coming in from africa/middle east (too soon..?) haha just glad i was granted asylum
1239
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:34:04 PM »
You didn't transpose that right, 23 spline not 32 because i have 1350 and 1410 32 spline output yokes.
sorry.. should have been more specific. 23 spline input shaft to the t case. they are male to male, and the trans has a 23 spline output with a female to female spline coupler between the two male shafts
1240
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:24:32 PM »
ill trade ya..? hahah jk. i really want to do a 1st gen crew build. badly. theres a guy locally selling an '93 extended cab cummins with rebuilt trans.. its very tempting
1241
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:21:38 PM »
trans is painted cummins beige as well. still in search of a 23 spline NP 205 with adapter and coupler.
the bodywork has all been dustless blasted and primed. don't know how i ended up with no pictures from that process..
body is immaculate minus the floor of the cab. hunting club before previous owner had carpet in the cab, so its rusted pretty bad. fortunately a FSJ either cherokee or wagoneer is the same floor pan, just a tad longer than the kaiser. so picking up a solid 76 wagoneer shell for the floor and roof (may make a hard bikini top for it) next week hopefully
1242
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:18:09 PM »
so, heres the kaiser we are currently in the process of repowering.. hope to have it drivable by spring, but who knows when it'll actually be done. hahah running driving all original '67 kaiser and an entire spare frame and axles  and her soon to be transplanted heart.. in the form she showed up to the house    along with the 47RH i picked up on Long Island while i was in the city doing a job..  shackle reverse mid-process   front spring hangers welded under the frame..  and sleeves welded in the frame  rear spring hanger plates  and spring hangers mocked up rear spring hangers from a K3500 van with CUCV springs and axles (front kingpin dana 60 and FF 14 bolt rear with detroit and 4.56s) no pics of them right now..  alittle purple power never hurt no one..  when i washed the engine.. it was already painted like this!  just kidding.. it was filty. and those valve covers didn't stand a chance against aircraft paint remover.. my take on the supply and return lines for the heater core.. i thought it was kinda cool looking. 
1243
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:03:12 PM »
playing 'thread tag' hahah
1244
« on: December 11, 2015, 03:02:14 PM »
i put up a couple in the 'show your truck' thread, but will start its own coming up shortly. it has only just now gotten back from the powder coaters and I'm in NYC for the next week, so its only stuff leading up to us dropping it off at the media blasters and powder coaters dad has down since I've been in manhattan..
1245
« on: December 11, 2015, 02:49:49 PM »
since i haven't started a build thread for the kaiser yet, i figured id put this hear. its a quickie ? regarding engine mounts since it seems like a few of you have done some cummins swaps.. what do y'all think of this for a mount/frame brace?  the frame rails are further apart than a chevy or dodge, so just buying an aftermarket cummins swap kit is out..
1246
« on: December 11, 2015, 02:44:37 PM »
and yes, i do like SEM products. was very pleased with the outcome of the door panels and dash on my truck. i THINK it only took 2 cans, but it may have been 3 to do all 3 pieces. 2 for the dash (didn't want to have to pull it out and do it twice) and little less than 1 per door (apply in thin coats, so the more 'solid surface' you have and less loss in overspray, the further it will 'go' i think the last half can was for touch ups on the lower doors until they completely cured. just scuff it well with steel wool/scotch bright and clean well with NAPTHA and all will be good
1247
« on: December 11, 2015, 02:32:33 PM »
dunno if I'm late to the party, but I've found this site fairly useful and accurate in regards to gears, tires and RPMs http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
1248
« on: December 11, 2015, 02:18:14 PM »
I have considered a 2nd gen cooler for the 91.5 if I decide to redo it. The OEM one is a bit undersized for my present fueling.
My wifes Ramcharger has a PS cooler...
It fits very well...but I'd need a newer thinner condenser if it was a AC truck even with the newer grill/support.
Did you like the SEM paint? I have been ditching the SE power windows/doors on my 91.5 and need to repaint some door panels for the old crank windows.
the 2nd gen IC is wide enough to fit around even the crossflow radiators on the 1st gens, and I'm fairly certain it'll sit in front of the condenser (mine does, but the grill isn't on either) i have a chrome 1st gen grill, but the headlight buckets are further up and out towards the corners than the earlier models. considering cutting new holes and mountain new buckets to accommodate this. but i think Flyin6s has AC, and the later model 1st gen grill fits over with minimal trimming to the lower interior grill inserts..
1249
« on: December 11, 2015, 01:26:47 PM »
quite impressive mopar fleet you have there
1250
« on: December 11, 2015, 01:25:40 PM »
yea, i read of the 'oil change' he currently has going on. mine have been week long (at most) tear downs and rebuilds. with most only lasting a day or two. i have a new DD so ill be able to pull it apart alittle more and get some real work done to it.
and it will not fit behind a non IC grill. the bigger chrome grills which I'm sure yours has with it being a 91.5, just trim up some of tabs and it should slip right on. it al depends on how close you mount the IC to the air conditioner condenser.. thats where you can make or break your grill fitting back on.
ohh.. and the core supports for the IC to non IC 1st gens an even mid 80s gassers are different.. ask me how i know. hahah
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