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Messages - swbhobie16
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801
« on: November 07, 2016, 03:09:32 PM »
they're the same output. 23 spline. it's the same trans, but with a locking TC. only you we had to do was machine down the female coupler maybe 1/16" to have it slip in the output shaft seal of the trans. i'll post a pic when i get a minute.
802
« on: November 07, 2016, 02:17:32 PM »
i just read a couple guys breaking input shafts shifting into OD locked up.. but i wanted to make sure that the OD didn't need the extra pressure from the LU to operate. the PATC system also has a $10 cole hersee normally closed pull switch to act as a TPS to kick it out of LU (which i can make work to drive a relay to kick it out..)
you don't want a 47rh do you? i have one in trying to get rid of to swap in that getrag. hahah
803
« on: November 07, 2016, 02:05:17 PM »
I am still in the air about re-centering mine. Got to see how it looks with balancing versatility.
I like the idea of no PCM for the 47rh. Read up on it and it looks simple with kits to do the whole thing. I have a 46r right now.
a46 would be one less switch! hahah. i think those NOS safety switches will work for it. PATC sells a kit for $325 ish that actually kicks itself out of LU and OD as needed relating to throttle position. i might start with the NOS switches set to different PSIs for closing grounds. can anyone confirm that the 47rh shifts 1, 2, 3 OD then LU..?
804
« on: November 07, 2016, 09:45:23 AM »
also.. found some recentered H1 inserts from trail worthy fab. seem like a good price and amazing reviews on both his website and forums alike. seems pretty straightforward after reading dons write up and some quick pic searches.. even got the go ahead from my dad as well. hahah. so i believe they're gonna be on the way soon. http://www.trailworthyfab.com/H1-Hummer-Bead-Lock-Pressed-Wheel-Centers.html
806
« on: November 06, 2016, 03:42:19 PM »
we have the mag style. so they bolt together i believe. we won't be putting 33s under this 8) lol. i'll ask my dad if he'd like to re center them. bc that would be cool. and make me feel better about riding on them. (no spacers). if the 37" hummer tires look right on the truck.. we will definitely re center and run surplus tires from here on out. if they need to be bigger.. we will have to jump to 17/18" rims to hold 40" toyo/nitto/goodyears (silly manufactures don't make 40s for 16.5" rims :()
any suggestions on custom center styles? i like the bullet hole style.. but not sure what would look best.
807
« on: November 06, 2016, 06:42:01 AM »
think you could post which section you did it in? i feel like i remember seeing it now.. just can't remember which of the 200 pages it's on! hahaha.
808
« on: November 05, 2016, 09:36:57 PM »
that would be awesome. do you need to find/buy the new centers or just reuse the ones you cut out? i'll ask and see what he wants/plans for in the future. 16.5" tires are just hard to come by in decent tires (name brand stuff at least.. if that makes sense) it would, however, be nice to have a set of rims that worked/correct backspace that fit hummer tires (easily found in the surplus market)
decisions decisions.. hahah
809
« on: November 05, 2016, 05:29:16 PM »
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah
but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
Why not just recenter the Humvee wheels to get back spacing you desire?
id love to do that. just not sure where around me does that sort of thing.. that.. and in a year or so i want to go to 17/18s so i can get some 37-40" toyos or nittos for a better ride. the hummer stuff is just to hold us over until then. make sure it all runs correctly
810
« on: November 05, 2016, 05:21:18 PM »
got what i thought was a latching solenoid in today.. turns out it's just another starter solenoid. so.. i'm sending it back and have a true latching solenoid (cole hersee 24200) coming in the mail. hopefully will be there before i get back from nyc next week. that, along with borgeson steering components should be at the house soon.
811
« on: November 05, 2016, 03:07:22 PM »
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
That looks like a good wallpaper image.
wait until the brush guard is back on and we have a new set of 37" HUMVEE tires w/spacers on the back.. :( hahah but thank you. it's getting there. slowly but surely
812
« on: November 05, 2016, 10:17:53 AM »
most recent.. with the light bar, hood light and headlights (none of it hooked up.. yet)
813
« on: November 05, 2016, 08:51:21 AM »
yea.. i got a message like that when i opened up my photobucket earlier. not sure what's happening. hang in there with me, maybe it'll come back. hahah
814
« on: November 03, 2016, 09:45:15 PM »
alittle hoodlatch update KISS .. regular looking hole in the hood but wait.. TAADAAA exterior hood latches block off plates and jumper cable connections some LED headlight/turn signals and a close up. bear in mind that they still have the plastic film on them. the smaller 3/4" holes will either be amber running lights or white hazard strobe lights.
815
« on: November 02, 2016, 07:12:27 PM »
been working on the truck alittle lately. i'll get some pics up tmrw once it all gets placed. mostly little things. accessories. rear view mirrors. good larches. etc. and some cool jumper cable plates. pics and explanation maƱana hahaha
816
« on: November 01, 2016, 08:09:10 PM »
so one vote of confidence.. hahah. and yes sir.. it'll be more of a budget swap than full on frame-off top of the line build. 5.9 is stock minus a stage 2 fuel pin. almost stock tire size. 3.07 gears (may look for for 3.54s if the build goes through) and the truck doesn't pull all that much. it would just be better on the hwy and more fun to drive. ive got the guy to $1k for all of it.. which doesn't sound unreasonable. it's been rebuilt at some point in the not too distant past. tcase looks good. none of it is covered in oil (except inside of bellhousing.. most likely a leaking rear main seal from the truck it came from) pedals are all there. tcase shifter. etc. drive shafts don't have to be altered bc it's a 727.. not 518. seems to be a straight forward swap. would be cool if it goes through..
817
« on: November 01, 2016, 07:09:06 PM »
so.. i've got my eye on a getrag 360 from a 1st gen. full assortment of swap parts. everything i'd need minus master and slave cylinder. ($150ish online) i know it's not a 4500.. but it'll get me away from the 3 speed and at least set up for a 4500 should i run across one at a reasonable price. ive always wanted and thought a 5 speed for the ol girl would be sweet. better mileage, pulling ability and highway speeds. plus.. a really cool sound. hahah.
..thoughts?
818
« on: October 27, 2016, 06:44:23 PM »
i had no idea. i really appreciate the kind words and votes of confidence. it really would be a dream come true to be there. maybe not with this truck (as cool as it would be) but one of the next. i guess i just need to put some feelers out there and/or change some parts on the cummins. hahah.
y'all really don't know what this means.. just to hear it from someone. gratifying and humbling..
819
« on: October 26, 2016, 04:18:29 PM »
For SEMA, all you really need to do is talk to one of the vendors of the diesel products you have on the motor. Your build is SEMA quality thus far, and I've been every year since 2008, so I have a good perspective. it's the details.
dang man.. that means a lot. like.. a whole lot. never thought i'd ever get there. it's reassuring to know that it's there. always been a dream to go at some point. and that's just the assurance i needed. thanks now.. to get back to the states and finish the 715! hahah
820
« on: October 23, 2016, 03:37:24 PM »
yep.. that would be in the driveway.
821
« on: October 22, 2016, 04:01:26 PM »
Not even a cool decal for improved aerodynamics???
Don wants racing stripes I think
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Like my fav car, the 70' SS 454 Chevelle? Like those? I could see it...
Well, not really
hahah. i mean.. maybe. i doubt this thing will ever see 80mph.. let alone need racing strips to be 'cool' lol speaking of '70 chevelle though.. i am currently helping put together one.. blue with black racing stripes. built 408 motor. TH400 trans. resto interior.. i'll get some pics when it's more complete.
822
« on: October 21, 2016, 06:29:36 PM »
Tom McIntyre at Acsco. There company has made several custom emblems for SEMA builds, and are in CA. 818-953-2247 is his direct line. Tell him Tate at Yukon Gear & Axle recommended him. They can do CAD examples, one offs, you name it. http://www.acsco.net/emblem/inner/Productsemblem.shtml
that sounds great man. thanks a lot! i'll let you know what he says when i get in touch with him. my dream is to have something someday good enough for a SEMA booth.. but everyone knows that's like making it on the starting 9 in the big leagues. one day.. who knows again.. i appreciate it.
823
« on: October 21, 2016, 05:38:30 PM »
i like the funky M715.9 in wagoneer script. i'm sure it'll be something of the sort. those are some rather large tires. i'd be ok with them, but bear in mind that this is an old mans (50 yr old.. hahaha ;D) kaiser. i'm thinking we will put a set of 37" hummer MTRs on it and see how they look/ride. ive already prepped him for 40s should the need arise.. but he would like 37s to work. hahah. once i get back from england i'm hoping to wrap up the steering, trans hookups (OD and TC) along with shocks and wiring. stay posted.. and keep shooting ideas at me for emblems.
cheerio!
824
« on: October 21, 2016, 12:51:08 PM »
$2k for toyos, what rim size??
well.. the 40s come in 17", 18" and 20". so i'm going to have to find a set of 17/18s and upsize from the 16.5" hummer rims. I could see that with no emblems. Would look good.
Keep the tire thin for that classic look.
i'm thinking about having some M715.9 emblems cut from 11 ga sheet metal in the same font as the 62-67 gladiator J200 and J300 fender emblem. in which case, it would go behind the tire/in front of the door. these would be painted semi gloss black. and i'm highly considering cutting 'turbo diesel' off the cummins badge and painting the C semi gloss as well.. with either red or beige lettering. these are all fit and finish/detail.. but i like thinking about them while i'm not able to do physical work on it. hahah. im not sold on the cummins emblems completely.. but they were a good deal and NOS. so i grabbed em. also.. they're going to have to be at least 12.5" wide.. can't seem to find any tires 37"+ that are less than that. which won't look bad. not going 13.5-15.5 like the TSLs and IROKs come in..
825
« on: October 19, 2016, 08:18:53 PM »
i agree. priority #1 is to get it to run down the road at 60. once my dad sees that and knows it runs.. might be a tad easier to get $2k out of joe pocket for the toyos. lol
826
« on: October 19, 2016, 06:27:53 PM »
You probably stated already but what size tires are going to fill up those fender wells again?
i'm shooting for 37" MTRs from the newer hummers. but it may even end up being 40" toyo open country MTs. the MTRs are readily available at swaps and surplus. the tires that are pictured measure out to ~35" tall. maybe a hair more. but no where close to 37s
827
« on: October 19, 2016, 06:25:13 PM »
Up front, be different.
the '03-05 cummins' (year models of the emblem) went up front. that's why i'm leaning towards putting it up front. they moved them behind the fender and almost doubled the size of them in '06.
828
« on: October 19, 2016, 01:57:45 PM »
dual battery setup and alternator wired. sitting just at 14 volts. metering 14.15V at the batteries and poll time. where to put the emblem (not in finalizes locations.. just areas. i'm thinking about having an 'M715.9' CNC out of 11 gauge metal in old school jeep font. it would go behind the fender/in front of the door. (if the emblem doesn't go there) and alittle walk around.. just for fun hahah http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/B24440FB-1F77-42DB-9365-D8175C65A415.mp4.html
829
« on: October 16, 2016, 09:20:03 PM »
I use opti lube summer blend. On a mechanical pump old transmission fluid seems to get a nod.
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i think the guy told me power steering fluid so i wouldn't run the risk of dying the tank red. he said either would work, but PS fluid is clear. hahah it usually gets some oil in there as well. going to work on a filter system (2 filter heads. 10 micron and 2 micron filters) just bc i can get my hands on oil (generator services) norm told me he ran a whole tank of trans fluid through patch one time and it didn't phase it at all. hahaha. as long as it doesn't have gunk it in.. i think a cummins will run it a friend of my dad's has a 7.3 that he runs 1/2 fuel 1/2 motor oil (18 wheeler mechanic) and it doesn't skip a beat.
830
« on: October 16, 2016, 08:56:03 PM »
are y'all running anything in your fuel to help with lubricity/extending injector life by reducing the harsh conditions under which they live?
had a guy that rebuilt my VE pump on the 1st gen cummins tell me ~16oz of power steering fluid per 3 tanks of fuel. i run ~10oz of 2 stroke motor oil in my powerstroke when i fill up at my buddies shop.
just curious. didn't mean to DOT.. but we seem to be on injectors. hahah
831
« on: October 16, 2016, 08:49:12 PM »
How much did you pay for them batteries. I asked on Friday and they said I'd be $ 189 for the red tops
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don't shoot me.. $92 total. :o street side auto has red tops for $147 with free shipping
832
« on: October 16, 2016, 07:13:23 PM »
I am jealous for sure. Maybe a little heat shrink on the cables?
ohh yea.. these are just the ones we had around the house. i'll make some correct length cables to run across to the pass side/jumpers to the cam loks and all will be heat shrinked.
833
« on: October 16, 2016, 01:22:43 PM »
exhaust shield in place. spaced off correctly to have it plumb. one optima temporarily hooked up to see how it would do. fired right up the first time. snagged some 2/0 cable from a jobsite to custom cut/make the cables. they'll be paralleled and each having a jumper coming off to cam lok lugs on the front just inboard of the headlights (won't have to open the hood to jump or be jumped)
834
« on: October 13, 2016, 10:08:21 AM »
Post those specs please for the front and rear. I am doing both mine soon (4.56)
5/4 ton CUCV axles and done!
835
« on: October 12, 2016, 08:14:57 PM »
glad i have SDs approval. however.. i think hes getting jealous and wondering why the M715.9 is running and moving around and hes not. just sayin.. hahaha
836
« on: October 10, 2016, 06:19:24 AM »
yes sir. i called the local cummins place and they quoted me $116 for the pan and another $16 for another gasket. not terrible i didn't think. i'll have the new bung welded to the back so that the quick drain will be protected and not hanging straight down. and the thought was to have it completely done on a new pan, cleaned and painted before we pulled the old one off.. so it would just be a swap and not have to do all that to the old one
837
« on: October 09, 2016, 10:21:07 PM »
that's my dad and his grandson/my nephew. hahah. i didn't try to get a feeler between it. but it definitely wasn't much. there were 4sq/ft of dripping oil on me.. so i was just feeling it all without trying to look directly into oncoming oil. hahah.
i would love to change the oil and send out the oil for testing. but don't even know where to start. it's hard for me to think that it's major.. just bc of how it runs. maybe it'll blow apart tomorrow.. but i highly doubt it. hahah.
what i really want to do is to get another oil pan ($116 from cummins) and have a bung welded to the back of it so i can put a quick drain/lock on it AND get all the oil out of it as well. cummins pans won't let you get the last 3/4" out of the bottom (which i'm thinking might be the cause of the copper in it.. maybe from the oil pickup tube that back drained after new caps..? i really don't know.) so with the back oil bung.. it protects tre quick drain and lets me get it all out.
we shall see soon i'm hoping. i always like changing the oil. hahah
838
« on: October 09, 2016, 09:16:06 PM »
breather set of deep cell opimas we picked up used for $92.. total 8) and.. here is the exhaust shield. i'll work on adjusting the storage i have to get all the pics on here. it's getting down to the short rows now.. just need to wrap it up. can't wait!! http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/F40C49C8-6E13-4769-81BE-9CD0471A8E81.mp4.htmlalso.. after the exhaust was on and diverted further south, i was able to hear the engine cleanly. and i always noticed a funky thumping sound.. but couldn't place it bc the exhaust was right there. but it sounded and felt like it was coming from the oil pan. sure enough.. pulled it off (to change the gasket as well) and there was a knick-ish in the pan from the 2nd cylinder connecting rod cap. the pan was pushed in alittle causing it. so.. put a sand bag under it and knocked it back out with a dead blow, put it back on and fired it up. all the difference in the world. there was some slightly unsettling stuff in the pan.. but it runs so good to be anything major. it was copper ish stuff. but it could be from a rebuild or something (caps were marked 1-6) im not going to worry about it at the moment since it seems to be just fine otherwise. oil pressure it good. doesn't knock (hahaha) but sounds normal. for a 12 valve. 2 of the rod caps had alittle.. and i mean a little.. front to back.. movement. i just can't believe that it's something bad with how it runs. some of it could have been from the gouge in the oil pan.. but the copper is the only thing that really concerned me. we shall see i suppose any and all input will be appreciated.. as always
839
« on: October 09, 2016, 08:56:18 PM »
841
« on: October 09, 2016, 08:47:45 PM »
stuff has been happening.. i've just been lazy on the updates (and my phone keeps telling me that it's full. silly little thing. hahah top it getting there (more pics to come on it) also, the bed and body are reuniting.. after nearly a year! and DONE!! fully line-x'd bed, tool holders and top (for insulation.. both sound and thermal)
842
« on: September 07, 2016, 09:25:02 PM »
I know they go in a scout quite nicely. and the one that's wrapped up (Orange 1978) is pushing 345 to the tires on dyno tune. And it cranks and runs just like a brand new Chevy truck.. 100* or 20* outside
843
« on: September 05, 2016, 07:12:46 PM »
got her fired up. send a vid to a guy who txted me about it and he was at the shop 2 days later with a first full of $$. so it's in VA now. being transplanted into a 78 bronco. hahah
844
« on: September 02, 2016, 07:50:28 AM »
thanks all.
and I agree with you on the solenoid Ken. I'll most likely get one ordered in the near future. about to head to NYC for a few weeks for work. so the 715 will have do wait a bit for some more parts :/
845
« on: August 31, 2016, 08:17:36 PM »
progress!!
846
« on: August 31, 2016, 08:16:15 PM »
put the ol girl to work today
847
« on: August 30, 2016, 07:33:12 PM »
848
« on: August 29, 2016, 08:40:35 PM »
alittle bit of progress today. the front end it mostly back together. both passenger and driver inner fenders and quarters are on. as well as the hood hinges. real tailgate has been cut in to.. these are halo stop/turn/tail lights just like my first gen cummins. with 3 LED white reverse lights once the intercooler secured in place, the front facia will go on and then the all important grill. hahah. I'm waiting on most of the body to be together before I start wiring the headlights and tail lights so I know what/where I can go with runs
849
« on: August 29, 2016, 08:32:18 PM »
big day today I'm hoping to be able to rotate the housing on the HX30 so I can adjust the oil feed/drain holes correctly. can anyone confirm exactly how it's done? it looks as if I can loosen the clamp and rotate it around.. but it's stuck. quite stuck actually. what can be done to free it? valve covers will be cleaned and new gaskets installed. we shall see about firing it up again. I'd like to have the turbo on and possibly some water running through it for that..
850
« on: August 28, 2016, 02:43:02 PM »
well.. according to Murphy's law (or whose ever it is that says once you buy/say something you either A: find the original part or B: find the bit of info you were missing)
apparently I have it right. just wondering about the temp it got to. I could put my had one it so it was scalding.. but it was warmer than I was expecting I guess is what I'm getting at..
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