Author Topic: SquareD Build Thread, Part 1: The beginning (Read 144964 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #350 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:22:12 PM »

Since the factory brake lines were rusty, I bent up my own new lines and started installing them. That takes some time, so I only got the left side done before running out of time for the day

Flyin6 · « **Reply #351 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:22:57 PM »

Those brake hubs are looking pretty good after several hours of curing in the sunlight!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #352 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:24:04 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by duramaxdarren View Post
why no stainless steel braided brake hoses?

There is a reason and a secondary reason

First is the cost. The rubber lines are relatively inexpensive, although these wagners were not necessarily

Regarding the secondary reason(s) is actually a lot of considerations.
Stainless lines made their way into the automotive arena because they don't expand like a poorer quality rubber line. Standing on the brakes can generate 1100psi hydraulic pressure. Stainless lines can handle 1500 easily and the Teflon units over 3,000 working pressure.

But they kink! Did you know that? Stainless lines are used in aircraft where the movement is known and calculated against the known ability of the sheath to conform at max pressure.

Now let's talk a 4WD working suspension. The stainless lines are basically made the same length as the unit they replace. The rubber line they replace...The rubber line which does not kink and can take a lot more bending and shape shifting...See where I'm going with this?

On my street muscle cars, I would use the stainless lines but I'd make them myself with #3 or #4 fittings done properly. In some cases I'd do a loop so that a rapidly unwinding suspension wouldn't pull the line into a kink and destroy it or severely weaken it.

Nossir, I think high quality rubber lines are the proper choice, and Wagner lines have to be amongst the best.
__________________

Flyin6 · « **Reply #353 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:26:07 PM »

Pushing the ball downfield another foot at a time, inches on some days!

Today I finished the front brake line installation with new hard and rubber lines.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #354 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:27:21 PM »

Then I felt an acute case of interior coming on. Knowing everything was about to get covered up, I applied a generous coat of seam sealer to all the seams than I might have compromised while wire brushing some time ago.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #355 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:28:10 PM »

I even slopped it on the roof channel where it is welded to the windshield and side support metal. This is a common spot for these Dodges to rust out. This truck is protected for the next few decades now.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #356 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:29:22 PM »

I cleaned up the factory HD rubber under layment, and re-glued the juke felt that had come loose in spots. After cleaning it still had some rust staining, but what the heck, that will be hidden from sight forever very soon.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #357 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:30:09 PM »

After securing the wiring harness, I laid it out. If fit like it belonged there

Flyin6 · « **Reply #358 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:31:07 PM »

The next step was installing the new door seal, so I sanded the jamb and painted it semi-gloss black first

Flyin6 · « **Reply #359 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:31:44 PM »

Then installed both new gaskets

Flyin6 · « **Reply #360 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:32:39 PM »

That is definitely looking much better. I'll paint that jamb with the OD paint, but I plan to tape right up to the seal, so I wanted some paint down there first. The plan is to paint out the insides first, then the outside

Next, the rear window headliner trim, the seat belts, and the side quarter trims went in

Flyin6 · « **Reply #361 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:33:32 PM »

I still have to scrape out that ugly rear window trim, but I think I need to install a new rear window rubber seal, so I might as well just wait until I remove the glass.

Here's the state of finishedness at the moment

Flyin6 · « **Reply #362 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:34:29 PM »

This will be a picture free update tonight.
The faithful Fuji 5000 died an untimely death you all might remember.
Well, I had to dig through my old flight helmet bag to find my really ancient Fuji 3000. That intermittent at best camera has been dutifully posting pictures for a couple weeks so far, but lo, it is dying as well.
I'll spare everyone the details, but I am about to be camera free save for an old Sony I have with no battery (Dog chewed it up along with the charger and the case)
I'll be down to my cell phone and a piece of paper and a pencil pretty soon

Buy one you say...What, are you nuts? I can buy all 9/16" wheel studs, get the brakes turned and a couple of LED lamps for that, so guess where I'm going???

Anyhow, I'll try again in the morning before the workout to get the pics posted.
Today I went all the way to laying out the carpet with the interior install. It's almost all in.
I then removed the skid plate, drained the transfer fluid, and installed new transmission cross member rubber mounts (2 ea)
I traced a problem in the AC system to a little electronic control relay that is no longer available, and made friends with the orange and white cat. Seems that one has been more and more interested in the restoration of old Square D. Can't figure out how to put that cat to work, so maybe I'll just install it somewhere as a mouse deterrent

Flyin6 · « **Reply #363 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:37:25 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyB View Post
That charcoal will be blackerer after you get in and out a few times after getting dirty, or the pre rangers get in and out being dirty. But D2 is looking quite nice now that you've basically restored her back to her former glory. Now I've got a question. When you paint her in the OD green are you going to pull her apart and paint her that way or just tape it off and leave her whole ?

Good question.

I'd doing a paint as I go

I haven't gotten the paint in yet, or I would have already painted the jambs. I need to pull the fenders off to check out the cowl and firewall thoroughly for cracks, then recoat. I'll repaint all of that while it's apart.
I plan to pull the bed off for a couple days to redo the brake lines and treat the top of the frame that I couldn't get to...I'll repaint the underside and front then.
The hood is coming off as well to coat the underside with lizard skin to deaden the sound some and I'll just paint it then. Finally at some point the insides will be finished and it will just be a couple days to do the remaining body work, sand off and paint the exterior.
I'll also paint everything exterior like mirrors, grill, door handles and the like in that low gloss J.D. Blitz then as well

Flyin6 · « **Reply #364 on:** September 22, 2014, 07:38:04 PM »

OK time to build it some more...

Today we will be all over the place, well, like most days. You see, the way I figure it, it all has to be finished, so who cares which part I work on. If I feel like working on the AC, that's where I go...Lights, ditto.

The thing started today with the 5-minute, turned forever install of the steering dampener. I bolted it on with the cylinder at 50% of it's travel, then I'd find some interference (With Shawn's cover)
Then I'd adjust it and find the interference again. No kidding I adjusted it six times before I got it to max out left or right just before or right at interference of max piston travel.

The pictures show the various changes as I get it toward it's sweet spot

Flyin6 · « **Reply #365 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:12:42 PM »

OK, cool, so let's build some more of this truck.

I am days ahead at this point, but I do some catching up...

So a few days ago, I reassembled the interior. In this installment we'll cover and install the seats along with some other stuff

First I dyed all the vinyl on the bench seat black, the sanded and repainted the frame in preparation for the seat cover

Flyin6 · « **Reply #366 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:13:52 PM »

That black vinyl dye/paint stuff did a great job on the other interior parts and on the seat as well.
I only coated the areas that might show from beneath the new cover

Flyin6 · « **Reply #367 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:16:01 PM »

It looked a little streaky in those shots past, but it was still drying when I snapped them

The seat bottom cover stretches over the top and is held on by both Velcro strips and a draw string that laces onto the frame. It's rather ingenious

Flyin6 · « **Reply #368 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:17:04 PM »

The top half was fairly simple but took some more work

Flyin6 · « **Reply #369 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:18:07 PM »

I made a couple of small X-cuts on top of the head rest plastic mounts, then tucked the material in and around the plastic piece

Flyin6 · « **Reply #370 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:18:57 PM »

Then after covering the headrests, I pushed them into their holes, remounted the plastic cover, and called the seat covering project done!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #371 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:19:53 PM »

Next up, I cut the hole for the transfer case shifter, slid on and screwed down the boot, then back on with the factory shift knob.
Sorry, Bobby, no chrome skull, I'm saving that for your truck when you get it!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #372 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:20:47 PM »

The holes were easy to place in the carpet. I simply laid it out, then from the underside, I sprayed some black paint through the holes, then cut those spots out from the carpet...easy

Flyin6 · « **Reply #373 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:21:25 PM »

In goes the seat belts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #374 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:21:55 PM »

Then I man handled the seat in there
How's it look?!?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #375 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:22:48 PM »

No, it wasn't bolted down in the last post, but here it is!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #376 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:23:37 PM »

Some serious change has taken place here!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #377 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:24:13 PM »

I am waiting on some paint to spray the doors before reinstalling the door panels and completing the interior restoration

Next, I threw the axle tag back onto the front D60

Flyin6 · « **Reply #378 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:25:05 PM »

I didn't show it before, but I was paint crazy that day, detailing all sorts of pieces parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #379 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:26:19 PM »

Well, let's do some more catching up

Mr. Tate has been busy again...

Here is that Lock Rite he sent me that will be going into the Ford Sterling axle which will go into Square D

Looks OK, now if it only works OK!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #380 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:27:10 PM »

I wanted to get some of the hanging jungle hung back on the truck, so I went to prepping the transfer case area, removing more rust, coating it (Again) and repainting to get even more rust off of it.

I hadn't wire brushed the transfer case or this part of the frame earlier because I couldn't get to it...Now it's all exposed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #381 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:28:04 PM »

So I wore out a cup brush on that big chunk of iron, the NP205 transfer case

Flyin6 · « **Reply #382 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:29:14 PM »

The rust converter does not work if you either don't scrape the scale away or if you remove all of the rust. So you want to get the part down to what you saw in the earlier posts.
Then you apply a liberal coat and it will turn bluish than black as it activates

Flyin6 · « **Reply #383 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:30:04 PM »

I did the same process on all of that expansive crossmember

Flyin6 · « **Reply #384 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:30:50 PM »

Then it got a top coat of the Blitz semi-gloss paint.

I am not going for a show car appearance, only to stop the rust and encapsulate it and then protect from further degeneration. Therefore wherever I found a good living layer of the original undercoating, I just cleaned it up then painted over it. That produces a crude looking finish, but it's very protective and that's what I am looking for here

Flyin6 · « **Reply #385 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:31:56 PM »

Here's how the skid plate turned out with the Nason paint with hardner. It is glossy, but is undercarriage so it will not really be seen.
Same Lycoming gray

Flyin6 · « **Reply #386 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:32:37 PM »

As you can see I redid the rear sway bar as well, prepping it for it's new home.

I wonder if a Chevy guy installs a Ford part on a Dodge if there is any spontaneous ignition, sparks, or instant corrosion or other malady?

Guess we're gonna find out!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #387 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:33:27 PM »

Here's the skid plate and cross member reinstalled

Flyin6 · « **Reply #388 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:34:48 PM »

Next up was the replacement of both motor mounts.

I have no idea of how long these have been in there, so it is really just cheap insurance to zero-time these parts. Working with the new transmission mounts, the motor mounts put the powertrain back in factory alignment.

Lifting that motor was a chore. I ended up blocking the oil pan and lifting with a jack...That chunk of Iron is HEAVY

Flyin6 · « **Reply #389 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:36:33 PM »

Well, I continued bear wrestling today (Installing an exhaust system)
I guess I won, it's on...

I started with this Diamond quiet replacement system for the square Dodges

Flyin6 · « **Reply #390 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:37:05 PM »

They don't mess around with the transition to the 4" pipe

Flyin6 · « **Reply #391 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:37:58 PM »

The system looks to be pretty good out of the box

Flyin6 · « **Reply #392 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:38:40 PM »

They went cheap on the clamps though!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #393 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:39:50 PM »

Mr. Don will not be using any of that business.
Nope, we're going first class with Square D
At least with the clamps

Flyin6 · « **Reply #394 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:41:06 PM »

The down pipe went on with no fuss at all

Flyin6 · « **Reply #395 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:42:08 PM »

The next pipe was an S shaped affair to clear the cross members and the transfer case. It gave me some problems and I fitted it a half dozen times before finding that sweet spot

Flyin6 · « **Reply #396 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:43:01 PM »

This was the point where the easy ended and I had to get creative.

There were no hangars on this truck and it had used that ancient strap and rubber method of securing the exhaust. I'll have none of this for a truck that might find itself airborne and slamming down. I need this system anchored very solidly, and that's what it got
Starting with a U-bolt, First I cut it into a "J"

Flyin6 · « **Reply #397 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:44:13 PM »

Then cut threads onto the long end 1/2-13 and added some new hardware

Flyin6 · « **Reply #398 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:45:19 PM »

There was already a hole in the frame so I started there, but had to redrill another to better position the tailpipe

Flyin6 · « **Reply #399 on:** October 04, 2014, 11:46:41 PM »

In that last photo earlier, I'm adding a second hangar hanging from a stiffener in the truck bed underside
Here's the buildup