Author Topic: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door (Read 217950 times)

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #100 on:** July 04, 2016, 07:56:26 AM »

Sean, I'm not familiar with any of this but am curious. What part of the law is aev not following and why is ca pulling their registration ?

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stlaser · « **Reply #101 on:** August 16, 2016, 02:16:34 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 04, 2016, 07:56:26 AM

Sean, I'm not familiar with any of this but am curious. What part of the law is aev not following and why is ca pulling their registration ?

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Something to do with "patching" the Ecm to make it run the hemi which is against the mans rules.....

stlaser · « **Reply #102 on:** August 16, 2016, 02:22:04 PM »

Ok, so short update

Ordered centerforce clutch & pressure plate last week from Summit

Spoke with Zack @ 505 just a few mins ago. We were going over final specifics for the stroker & he presented another option......

They now make an ultra reliable 3.8 HO motor. I will explain in greater detail later. However, I am going this route & the plan is to supercharge it by years end. More reliability & power, win, win!

Motor to be shipped to me end of next week.

stlaser · « **Reply #103 on:** September 24, 2016, 12:31:26 AM »

SOoooooo, month later and motor was finally shipped this past Weds. I picked it up from my freight terminal today. Brought it home & unpackaged it, going to go buy cheapo engine stand in morning. Started making supply list & planning attack.

Looked online for maintenance manual & decided or rather recalled I'm too cheap to buy one & the free ones for download pretty much bring the suck. Then decided to text Ken & only mini van he claims he ever worked on was H's custom one that was more like a 2 ton truck to haul her heavy butt around. So I struck out there as well & decided to wing it...... ;)

Wife will be out of town on biz next week so in a 2 vehicle household that gives me more than one advantage. The first being the honey do list does not exist when she's not here & second I have a shop / parts vehicle. Yeah I know the wr450 can always do the light lifting but thinking her Lexus trunk is better place for flywheel to be then my backpack when making trip to parts store for surfacing.

JR · « **Reply #104 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:24:43 AM »

Come on, lets see some pics!!!!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #105 on:** September 24, 2016, 07:22:51 AM »

You know the rules Shawn....

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #106 on:** September 24, 2016, 10:41:04 AM »

Ya, concur guys

None of this actually happened!

stlaser · « **Reply #107 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:36:17 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on September 24, 2016, 10:41:04 AM

Ya, concur guys

None of this actually happened!

For the record this is what Ken claims about H and that supporting bumper sticker, but we all know better!

stlaser · « **Reply #108 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:40:24 PM »

OK, upon arrival to my shop yesterday. Motor laid on its side with couple of 2x4's stuck under it as to not smash oil pan. Banded and shrink wrapped to the skid. Was this ideal? Possibly, but I have purchased custom motors in the past and a $40 engine stand is cheap insurance. Upon getting it on the stand I did not see any issues due to shipping. Which was good as those shipping guys practice breaking bowling balls with rubber mallets on their lunch breaks........

Just a few minutes ago after assembling and then modifying elcheapo engine stand to fit the mini van mill. Oh I so much miss my American made quality engine stand. But for $50 I guess I can drill a couple holes and buy some bolts......

stlaser · « **Reply #109 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:48:46 PM »

Here's the specs on my motor

3.8 Jeep JK HO 240hp Long block

Complete long block with forged pistons, upgraded oiling system, timing cover.

Forged 10.1 compression 5/64 upgraded ring pack

custom Cloyes timing set

Blue printed race rods ARP bolts

Performance heads with stainless valves (also upgraded to ARP head bolts for supercharger)

Roller rocker kit

Custom push in rear seal kit

COMPLETE

stage torque monster camshaft (upgraded this for future supercharger)

3.650 stroke crankshaft (plus .250 stroke)

Custom forged pistons .030 or .060 pistons 10:1 compression (these were also upgraded to a micro slick coated custom forged piston)

H-Beam Rods, all gaskets, lifters, freeze plugs, coated rod/main bearings, cam bearings, full adjustable roller rockers, stainless valves, ported cylinder heads,Cloyes custom timing set.

KensAuto · « **Reply #110 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:55:57 PM »

You can throw lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig.......

:)

stlaser · « **Reply #111 on:** September 24, 2016, 04:58:47 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on September 24, 2016, 04:55:57 PM

You can throw lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig.......

:)

I agree to an extent, but living in hippy land and not wanting to deal with the commies anymore than I have to this seemed like the path of least resistance and should work for what I need it to do. Plus LS swap was a bit more coin and quite a bit more work.

PS, I wasn't big on the purple anodizing of the rockers but they said it was H's favorite so I thought well at least Ken will like it....... :)

KensAuto · « **Reply #112 on:** September 24, 2016, 05:01:10 PM »

Fish on!! lol

JR · « **Reply #113 on:** September 24, 2016, 06:21:04 PM »

Nice looking, cept the Ken rockers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Ken, you an EFI guy at all?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #114 on:** September 24, 2016, 07:59:42 PM »

Color on those rocker arms just wrecks it for me

Other than that it's an outstanding motor

So, you decided to run the clear Lexan valve covers? ;)

stlaser · « **Reply #115 on:** September 24, 2016, 09:57:11 PM »

So far the vote tally shows 1 for the clear valve covers & 39 against. Sorry Ken, you ain't gunna get your way this time..... ;)

wyorunner · « **Reply #116 on:** September 24, 2016, 11:22:37 PM »

Blue over purple would have been better but what the hey, it'll run! Also saw your comment on WDYDT about the 1000lb rating on the elcheapo.... It held my Cummins..... With a bottle jack on a stack of wood at the front...

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stlaser · « **Reply #117 on:** September 24, 2016, 11:43:19 PM »

Quote from: wyorunner on September 24, 2016, 11:22:37 PM

Blue over purple would have been better but what the hey, it'll run! Also saw your comment on WDYDT about the 1000lb rating on the elcheapo.... It held my Cummins..... With a bottle jack on a stack of wood at the front...

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That's funny, cheating (with the bottle jack and wood) but funny none the less.... ;D

wyorunner · « **Reply #118 on:** September 24, 2016, 11:45:56 PM »

Honestly, I was mildly terrified of that engine on that stand, but didn't have another option so I went with it and hoped for the best. And well so far so good I guess. Only time will tell if anything is wrong inside the engine.

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KensAuto · « **Reply #119 on:** September 25, 2016, 12:30:37 AM »

Quote from: JR on September 24, 2016, 06:21:04 PM

Nice looking, cept the Ken rockers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Ken, you an EFI guy at all?

EFI as in fuel injection, or EFI as in tuning? Yes on both counts.....wait....but I don't tune if that's what you mean.

Hey isn't this fun, Dotting up Shawn's thread?

JR · « **Reply #120 on:** September 25, 2016, 01:24:58 AM »

Yep, EFILive. I don't tune either but having issues with new firmware. I adjust some settings and always loaded through the flashscan.

I can only program using the old "tun" not the "CTZ" it all converts to now. Been reading my but off, but have not got the flashscan to program alone.

Right now I have a 100/230 tune running, but it is touchy at low throttle. It gets great mileage though. I have a DSP5 by IdahoRob, but running his 100hp never felt this solid or got the mileage.

I talked to Dave a little tonight and will probably call Rob this next week.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #121 on:** September 25, 2016, 07:18:29 AM »

If I'm lucky I get 16mpg out of the LB7 on the highway with Kory's DSP5 on the 150 tune

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stlaser · « **Reply #122 on:** September 25, 2016, 09:59:32 PM »

After the Broncos pummeled the Cinci boys mid day I went out and tore into the JK having parked it where it will lay peacefully for the next several days prior to the game. I started by taking lots of pictures, can't hurt as there are a lot of wires. With that said half the battle is trying to figure out what needs unhooked and what stays? First thing to get unhooked was a negative battery cable.

So I pulled the lower plastic air dam to find no drain on the radiator (brilliant I might add) so then pulled the lower radiator hose and made a mess. I mean who doesn't want anti freeze all over their floor to roll around in? Add some kitty litter and you have a great party environment. Speaking of environment don't call the EPA....

Then pulled belt to try and keep clean. Heater hoses came loose as did the ac pump. I read you can just unbolt it from the motor and swing it to the side. Same goes for the steering pump although I pulled the hoses as it seemed easier to pull pump out of the vehicle. The overflow reservoir came out and it appears I will have enough room to swing motor forward and not have to pull electric fan.

I finished out the evening by pulling the four bolts at the exhaust flanges, kind of a pain as supposedly once there were clips that held the upper nuts from spinning. They had long since rotted away and a small vise grip improvised holding them to loosen the bolts from the bottom with a long extension and swivel head socket.

One I get my wife unit on a plane in the morning I will tackle the rear bell housing bolts. Top two are said to be a real pain to get to so we'll see. Once those are removed the plan is to pull the 6 bolts that hold the motor mounts to the engine block. I would pull the single bolt holding the frame mount to the engine mount however I would need to drop the Y pipe with O2 sensors and think I can get it swapped while leaving them in place. Time will tell......

No turning back now....

Prior to unhooking stuff or in process I took a ton of pictures and zip tied via colored ties both sides of a connection. I also bagged and labeled all hardware for the install. I can't tell you how much it all helped.

After unhooking all the wiring and the plumbing I went to work on bolts. Here is the under side inspection cover of sorts.

then the first tool sacrifice, no name brand model I have had for my adult life

KensAuto · « **Reply #123 on:** September 25, 2016, 10:17:41 PM »

One recommendation would be to leave the main harness attached to the engine (if at all possible), and once on the stand, take even more pics of how it's ran...under this bracket, over this, around that..etc.

stlaser · « **Reply #124 on:** September 25, 2016, 10:24:52 PM »

Ken, I need to look at that closer tomorrow as it runs along the back of the motor. I started unhooking it from the firewall today then stopped as I thought maybe I was unhooking the wrong thing. After getting under it for exhaust I see that the main harness is held in place by the passenger side upper bell housing bolt. So once I pull them I should be able to lift that harness up top side and get a better understanding of its path.

KensAuto · « **Reply #125 on:** September 25, 2016, 10:35:18 PM »

Yeah, most of the newer cars have a just a few connections and are meant to be pulled/installed with the engine on the assembly line. Not like a lot of the older ones...
...but, sometimes you have to unplug all the trans stuff as well, because it's part of the main harness. Some of those are easier to leave in the vehicle. Just gotta figure out which way is better... and easiest to remember.

stlaser · « **Reply #126 on:** September 25, 2016, 10:45:57 PM »

Copy, Thanks for the tip.

JR · « **Reply #127 on:** September 25, 2016, 11:16:18 PM »

Good luck, take lots of pics for us.

stlaser · « **Reply #128 on:** September 25, 2016, 11:20:37 PM »

Anyone have tips for getting those high pressure fuel lines to release. I picked up an elcheapo tool at advance yesterday that slides up in the connection but can't get it to release. I saw on an article a guy using a set that kinda looks like what a dentist would pull your teeth with (plier like) but sears didn't have anything either. Thought maybe I'd stop at napa & see what they have tomorrow.

Heck JR, the pics are for me hoping I can get this put back together! ;D

JR · « **Reply #129 on:** September 25, 2016, 11:43:47 PM »

I know, just share the misery,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

stlaser · « **Reply #130 on:** September 26, 2016, 12:56:16 AM »

So sitting here contemplating a couple things. The stock motor has 80k under its belt. When I purchased it as the second owner the car fax was provided. It had a clean bill of health, as such what is the consensus for replacing things like the cam position sensor & water pump? I like to wear things out myself & if it's not broke don't fix it. I've also been on trail rides with guys who say swapped out a fuel pump just because & made that particular trip not so much fun when the unproven part gave up the ghost. So do I keep using what I have or buy new parts?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #131 on:** September 26, 2016, 08:53:42 AM »

Quote from: stlaser on September 26, 2016, 12:56:16 AM

So sitting here contemplating a couple things. The stock motor has 80k under its belt. When I purchased it as the second owner the car fax was provided. It had a clean bill of health, as such what is the consensus for replacing things like the cam position sensor & water pump? I like to wear things out myself & if it's not broke don't fix it. I've also been on trail rides with guys who say swapped out a fuel pump just because & made that particular trip not so much fun when the unproven part gave up the ghost. So do I keep using what I have or buy new parts?

I'd say that if you can get a quality American built part or something made eslewhere that you know meets US quality, then replace it.
If your only choice is Autozone, then maybe just cleaning the old poece up and bolting it up would be fine, as long as it passes muster
I'd go for a new belt tensioner/idler pulley anyway, and all new hoses. 08-16...8 to 9 years, ya, replace the hoses.
Oh, and I wouldn't try to salvage that antifreeze with the kitty litter all over the floor, your shirt and momma's sofa... ;-)

stlaser · « **Reply #132 on:** September 26, 2016, 09:50:06 AM »

All good points, I have kids so couch was toast day after we brought it home..... ::)

KensAuto · « **Reply #133 on:** September 26, 2016, 10:35:33 AM »

Try to keep the electronics original, but anything that can damage the engine like the waterpump, hoses, etc, I would replace. At 80k, it probably wouldn't hurt to change the O2 sensors (I use Denso aftermarket) and the oil pressure switch.

On the fuel lines, be sure to push and twist them inwards, while working the tool....kinda like an air couple...you have to take the tension off before they release.

stlaser · « **Reply #134 on:** September 26, 2016, 10:57:43 AM »

Copy, I'm doing the complete exhaust in next month or so. I have it just figured one project at a time. Thanks for tip on fuel lines, will try that as I wasn't pushing them together or twisting....

stlaser · « **Reply #135 on:** September 26, 2016, 10:33:52 PM »

Pulled, will update in next day or so. Have quite a few pics, the upper two bellhousing bolts put up a good fight.

https://imgur.com/a/aazNw

Ken, thanks for the tip on the fuel line. It came right apart.....

Updated pulled pics, made a mess with coolant everywhere

JR · « **Reply #136 on:** September 27, 2016, 12:24:48 AM »

That looks pretty clean for a pull out.

stlaser · « **Reply #137 on:** September 27, 2016, 08:35:30 AM »

Just over 80k on it, had a guy call about it last night. He threw a rod in his 07 Sunday. With that said if it were me while I had this motor out I would pull the pan, re ring the pistons and check the bottom end bearings. Those are the couple big weak spots with this motor stock.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #138 on:** September 27, 2016, 09:19:42 AM »

Quote from: stlaser on September 26, 2016, 10:33:52 PM

Pulled, will update in next day or so. Have quite a few pics, the upper two bellhousing bolts put up a good fight.

https://imgur.com/a/aazNw

Ken, thanks for the tip on the fuel line. It came right apart.....

You two girls finally gettin' along? :-)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #139 on:** September 27, 2016, 09:22:40 AM »

Shawn,

After 30 min with some hot soapy water from a pressure washer and that engine bay is going to look almost as good as new!

stlaser · « **Reply #140 on:** September 27, 2016, 02:10:32 PM »

Copy, on tomorrow's list with assembling new motor to go back in. With that stated, old engine had block heater. I never used it but this jeep came out of Canada where it gets cold. I'd have to remove a freeze plug to install it & it's a stand alone meaning it has nothing to do with computer. I'm thinking of just leaving it out & if I ever need it I can always install it, thoughts?

JR · « **Reply #141 on:** September 27, 2016, 02:30:36 PM »

One less thing to do and what would it hurt?

I like using simple green to clean muck like that..

Nate · « **Reply #142 on:** September 27, 2016, 03:33:36 PM »

Id put it back in now while you have EASY access to it now instead of busting knuckles later.......

stlaser · « **Reply #143 on:** September 27, 2016, 03:44:31 PM »

I'm leaning towards leaving it out for couple reasons. First it has an oring seal so really I should probably buy a new one & two I never needed a block heater in Indiana & I really have no plans to live someplace as cold or colder than where I used to live.

JR, yeah I buy simple green by the gallon & my plan was to use that as I like it too...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #144 on:** September 27, 2016, 03:53:11 PM »

I'd put it back in

and make a rule

When it gets down under 10F

Plug in the engine heater or put it on a timer to turn on, say an hour before I planned to use it

That will do the moving parts a lot of good in the long run with having easy flowing partially warmed oil lubing the cold metal on metal start the motor might see on really cold soaked days

stlaser · « **Reply #145 on:** September 27, 2016, 04:11:44 PM »

It would never get used if that was the criteria

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #146 on:** September 27, 2016, 07:18:49 PM »

Just park it in a heated garage. Call it good.

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stlaser · « **Reply #147 on:** September 27, 2016, 08:32:23 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on September 27, 2016, 07:18:49 PM

Just park it in a heated garage. Call it good.

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It is, part of reason I'm leaning that way.

Sold old motor today.

KensAuto · « **Reply #148 on:** September 27, 2016, 08:56:39 PM »

Hope you got everything you needed off it. lol

stlaser · « **Reply #149 on:** September 27, 2016, 09:17:02 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on September 27, 2016, 08:56:39 PM

Hope you got everything you needed off it. lol

I believe so, it looked like new motor before I loaded it up....