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Messages - Armalite

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1
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 10:09:55 AM »
I know I'm skipping over several things, but feel free to ask away and I'll give you my opinions...

2
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 10:06:25 AM »
Now you are going to wonder what weapon to mount this thermal on...  Again, I'm only giving you my opinion from experience...

I run a 6.5 Grendel.  I feel that is the perfect round/combo for East Texas.  This gun/thermal gets heavy when you are doing a lot of walking.  Trust me.  So save weight everywhere you can.  The 6.5 is plenty big enough to drop a hog in it's tracks, and it will reach out and touch a coyote at long distance.  We hunted a 4 day tournament this past spring.  We won the largest coyote category.  My partner killed him, using his 6.5 Grendel, at 350 yards, on a dead run.  The coyote was running away from us, but he finally got one in him.  Out to 200 yards, hold the crosshairs on what you want to hit, and odds are you will hit.  We shot a few hogs, on the run, in Oklahoma, that were between 270-320 yards away.  Had to have a little hold over and lead because they were running, but we dropped 2 out of 3.  All running 6.5 Grendel.

I tried with my .223, and it just isn't a large enough round to drop a large hog.

.300blk, works, out to 100-125 yards.  Once you get past that, it's a dang toss up.  One of my other partners runs a .300blk, and he can definitely hurt something out to 125 yards.  If it's out at 200, he wont even try it.

Again though, if you are after pigs only, and most of the shots are 100 yards and less, the 6.5 Grendel or .300blk will be sufficient.  I just want the insurance on the 200 yard plus shots, and the 6.5 Grendel will make that happen...


Attached are a picture of my Grendel, and my black Armalite with suppressor...

3
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 09:59:24 AM »
This is just a cool video off my backporch.  Literally, I walked 5 steps off my porch and this was the deer in the pasture across my pond.  For reference, the closest group is about 120 yards away, and the furthest group was about 250 yards away.

4
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 09:55:14 AM »
This video is a group of pigs in my neighbors pasture.  They were about 35-40 yards from my wife and myself.  One thing about Pulsar, you can wifi, yes it's wifi, not Bluetooth, a cell phone to the thermal.  So, she was watching my phone and seeing everything I was seeing through my thermal.  The skunk was about 10 yards, which is the reason I decided not to get any closer.  I had 4 confirmed kills laying in pasture after shooting.  There were multiple hits on the others, but I didn't care to go look...

5
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 09:48:44 AM »
This video is of a pair of coyotes I called in.  I prefer to search with white hot, then swap over to black hot when ready to shoot...

6
Firearms / Re: Thermal Weapon Sight Recommendation
« on: June 04, 2020, 09:44:47 AM »
What's up Redneck?  I can give you some personal experience that I have with my thermal and other thermals that I've used.  After that, I will give you the name/number to the man you need to call that will tell you every detail you want to know.  You tell him what you are looking for and he will narrow down the scope that fits your wants. 

I've been running the Pulsar Trail XP50.  I absolutely love it.  Pulsar no longer makes the Pulsar Trail model that I have because they upgraded them to the  Trail LRF which has a built in laser range finder. 

In my experience, I have not needed/desired range finding capabilities.  In the Pulsar Trail models, you are paying an extra $1k for that option.  If you were in the Midwest or out East where you could see 1,000 yards in multiple directions, then yeah, I would see the advantage.  Around East Tx, and especially for pigs, you will find that it will not be an asset for you.  Most of my fields I hunt are not new to me.  They are places I know and have been on for years.  So I know how far the tree line is from any given point, or how far a waypoint is.  I'm able to reference those areas and get a really close estimate to how far the target is away from me. 

Another thing, with pigs, as long as you have the wind in your favor, you can walk right up to them at night.  Obviously check the moon and try to stay in the shadows, but you can literally walk up to within 20-40 yards of them.  Do you really need a range finder when you are shooting from 40 yards??

In my opinion, Pulsar makes the best "bang for your buck" if you will.  They offer great resolution, all the options you listed below, and are in a great price range.  They also have great battery life. 

You mentioned the Trijicon.  Hands down, they have the best viewing capabilities.  But, they have a lot of down sides.  First is the price!!  Enough said...  They use CR123A batteries and have poor battery life.  Constantly buying batteries and replacing them.  They do not have recording options either.  So, if you go Trijicon, you will want to buy an external battery pack to plug in and mount on your gun, and you will want a mini hdvr to be able to record, if you wanted to record.  Again, just my opinion, your paying a lot of money for a thermal that has the best viewing ability, but it's definitely not light years ahead of Pulsar.  Again, if you were in the Midwest where you could sit on a hill top and see a mile in every direction, ok, maybe you could justify the Trijicon.  Around east texas, I would not recommend spending that kind of money.  It will be over kill. 

If you wanted a high end, look at the N-halo scope.  It is about $1k under the trijicon, but has the same core processor I believe, so it has the same viewing capabilities.  But, like trijicon, no battery packs.  So your back to mounting an external battery pack for extended life...

If I were to go buy a brand new thermal right now, I would get a Pulsar Thermion.  Check them out. 

Please keep one thing in mind, the most important thing I believe.  Base magnification!!!  My Trail is like a 1.8 base magnification.  That's at 640 resolution.  For pigs, and east tx, you do not want to go much over a 2.5 base magnification in my opinion.  You lose so much field of view.  All the thermals have the ability to zoom, but every time you zoom, you cut the resolution in half.  So, your base magnification is your highest resolution.  I only zoom mine in when trying to identify something a long ways off.  After that, I leave it on base mag.  The lower the base mag, the wider the field of view you will have.  When you are 40 yards from a large group, like the video I will attach below, you definitely do not want a high base magnification, because you will not be able to see the full view, and when they scatter, it's harder to get the full picture. 

One thing you will notice in the videos that only Pulsar offers is the Picture in Picture option.  You will see a small screen pop up on my large screen that is automatically zoomed in.  I will use it for my first shot, then focus on my big screen for multiple shots.

These are all my opinions of course, and everyone is partial to what works for them.

Here is the best information I can give you below:

Check out the podcast called "The Late Night Vision Show".  It's two guys, one of them is Jason, the owner of Outdoor Legacy Gear, in Nacogdoches, Tx.  He has been in this thermal game since they came out.  He is a country guy, Texas through and through, and he uses and reviews every single thermal on the market.  Him and his hunting partner have about 109 episodes out right now on just thermals.  I learned a ton of information by just listening to them.  Check it out. 

The best move you can make is to just call Jason direct.  877-350-1818.  You will get his office admin, and she will take a message or transfer you over to Jason.  He runs this business from his home, and farms during the day.  But he will call you back and you can tell him where you hunt, what you are hunting, and what options you want, and he will give you about 1-2 thermals to pick from that will do everything you have requested.

7
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 5
« on: September 07, 2018, 11:14:54 AM »
Back a few pages on the camper details.... Talking from experience on building an rv site for 10 plus units, wire the entire thing for 50 amp with 50 amp plugs.  Also add two 110 receptacles for heated water hose in winter or booster water pump.  They make a wiring harness that will allow a 30 amp to plug into a 50 amp receptacle...  Then you have no complaints from the 50 amp guys when they can't run both a/c units, coffee pot, microwave, and two big screen tvs at the same time while watching Don work!

Cheapest sewage system is fill lines going to one large tank, spilling into a second tank, then flowing out into the nearby woods... 

I'm not going to get started on the sewage requirements in NM....  :rolleyes:

Most of our spots were pull through unless a spot was taken.  Then you could either pull in and unhook, or back in and unhook, depending on which way you wanted to enter/exit the rv.

8
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: September 07, 2018, 10:46:45 AM »
Shawn, you find your way out of that endless maze of a garage and make it back to civilization yet??  Need me to head that way and try to locate you???  :shocked:

9
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: September 07, 2018, 10:42:21 AM »
Ash, is that a new avatar?

Don't think so? Same one I've had for last couple years...

10
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: September 01, 2018, 09:35:29 PM »
Havent fooled with tractor light mount...  Need to mount off road lights on one ton first...

Add a second hook so it blends together.  Nice, cute little bumper though.  Right up your alley... :popcorn:

11
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: September 01, 2018, 09:22:56 PM »
Bar hogs?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Bar - male hog that has had his wedding tackle removed....

Apparently these two had been caught previously, had their parts removed, and released back into the woods...
This makes them focus on eating and getting big.  Plus it makes them a lot better for processing.  They don't smell like a wild boar hog after they have been processed...

12
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 31, 2018, 07:40:17 PM »
Here are the two skulls boiled out and ready for display... 


13
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 31, 2018, 07:36:11 PM »
Oh, pigs huh....  Yeah, I was catching those things with my bare hands and taking them out alive before I ever bowhunted...   Here is two weeks ago.  Bigger of the two weighed 310, smaller went 230.  We catch and tie.  Took them out alive to our local processor.  Both were bar hogs, so we had them processed... 

14
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:57:12 PM »
I'll pull more off my backup hard drive at another time...  These were just a couple...

15
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:56:17 PM »
not even javelina are safe...

16
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:43:14 PM »
Who taught you to use photoshop?   :wink: :popcorn:

You did of course...   :knucklehead:

17
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:42:15 PM »
Guess you got to stand on your head to view that second one....  oh well

18
Other Weapons / Re: Bow and Crossbow pic thread
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:35:23 PM »
Fine, I'll put some pictures up as proof that I'm all about this bow hunting business...

19
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: August 28, 2018, 07:07:35 PM »
Cant believe you chopped off part of the frame....

20
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: August 12, 2018, 06:22:44 PM »
Glad to see some progress on that jeep.  Axle and wheels look a lot better in person guys....  It's a cool set up.

21
Build Threads / Re: LML Duramax build Part 5
« on: May 15, 2018, 05:10:23 PM »
Nice build Don.  Glad to know you persevered.  Hopefully you can fix the sound so you are 100% satisfied, instead of just 90%...

I ran FASS on my LML.  Installed at 20k miles, and was never touched up until I traded it in with 100k plus.  Just changed fuel filters every 10k miles. 

22
Build Threads / Re: LML Silverado Duramax C-Max build thread part 4
« on: March 25, 2018, 09:48:37 AM »
Replace the cp4.  Got rid of my truck before it failed, but I was also running a cp3 along with the cp4.  But, we had two more lml's in our fleet.  Both lost the cp4.  These were factory lml one ton reg cab 4wd trucks.  One failed at about 60k miles.  Other made it to around the 130k mark.  Friend of mine just had insurance company TOTAL his duramax.  Reg cab lml one ton 4wd.  Factory, and not a daily driver.  Used it for hauling his tractor around and hauling hay on weekends.  At 160k his cp4 went out and destroyed everything.  $15k in damage.  Like you said, when it goes, kiss everything fuel related from the injectors to the fuel tank good bye. 

By the way Don, the local shop that replaced both of the one tons we had in our fleet, they swapped the cp4's out without removing the body.  All done from overhead.  Does require removal of the turbo, but all the def junk has already been removed on your truck, so you have half the battle won...

I know there are a few lml's out there that haven't had an issue yet, but I know 90% more that have had them go out than the ones that are still factory...

23
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: February 21, 2018, 09:31:03 PM »
Yeah, but those mirrors though....  Got to fix that.

24
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: February 07, 2018, 06:09:01 PM »
no symmetry...  Lose the driver side or put the passenger side back on the jeep.  Trying to red neck this thing up or what?

25
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: February 05, 2018, 09:53:43 PM »
Nah, flu bug hit our area severely...  Had 1,200 deaths in Texas last week alone.  That's just one week.  So, been rough.  All is good here though.  I'm the only one in the family that got hit with the flu. 

Other than that, just loving life, my family, and my job.  And the occasional visit with Shawn via text... 

I learned a long time ago that Shawn was more than able to pick up the slack for me on these threads... 

26
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 5
« on: February 05, 2018, 09:50:58 PM »
 :likebutton: :popcorn:

27
Build Threads / Re: 2008 Jeep Jk 4 Door
« on: February 05, 2018, 08:53:28 PM »
I ran the 38"ssx on my 3/4 ton chevy.  Loved them.  Drove well and weren't that loud.  Always did like the Irok's.  Never bolted a set on, but had every intention to.  Oh well, not much help from me, as usual...

Keep up the good work.

28
Build Threads / Re: 2016 Rubicon GJ
« on: October 12, 2017, 04:49:54 PM »
uh oh... Not lights again...

Rigid 48" light bar across the top of the windshield for the jeep.  Will turn night time into daylight... 

29
Build Threads / Re: LML Silverado Duramax C-Max build thread part 4
« on: October 12, 2017, 04:46:54 PM »
Hope you find an answer Don...

After months of fighting my HID lights and all the other junk I kept trying, I must say the smartest thing I did was go back to factory oem lights, oem assembly, and spend $600 or more on a Rigid 30" light bar that mounted directly to my front bumper.  It's been almost 5 years now, and I still have and use that light bar.  Never missed a beat... 

30
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: August 23, 2017, 12:09:11 PM »
Well I am not Ash, but he needs crusher fines mixed into the clean stuff. If he has elevation room for some minus stuff it should work in and stabilize the clean gravel. If not, scrape some off and start over.

It's ok Bob, Ash isn't even considered part time here. It's like he gets drunk every six months and stumbles in here or something..... :popcorn:

Easy full timer...

Some of us stay fairly occupied at multiple endeavors....

But, look here, its only been about what, 10-11 days, and I've already made a return visit... 

31
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: August 23, 2017, 12:07:38 PM »
Correct me if I'm wrong Ash but can't Don just leave the rock that is there for base and overlay it with say a #73 (I believe that has crushed limestone in it). This is how we built driveways back in Indiana....

Not going to say it can't be done, but it would be simpler to relocate the 57 rock and lay back down new rock. 

I would not recommend limestone anything.  In our area, under a lot of heavy traffic in a short time span, or light traffic in a long time span, it will come apart and turn to dust/mud.  Don't get me wrong, it works, and serves its purpose, but you will be replacing limestone after a short period.  Granite will give you a lot more life span.

32
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: August 23, 2017, 12:05:27 PM »
and on the rock slides you built....

That is clean washed rock.  No fines in it.  If you want compaction, you will have to buy a rock material that has fines in it.  If you keep using clean washed rock, then expect to spin out every time.  Washed rock is fine on flat surfaces, but not on inclines. 
I realize the error in my ways
I'll scrape the #57 onto the road and come over top of what remains with some dense grade.
Have it all done before it gets cold.

Good deal.  I do like that #57 rock.  Real pretty and clean.  We had to rock a sub station for the power company last year with it.  Turns out a top notch job. 

Down here, the go to rock is called sb2.  Ground up granite in sizes from 2" and under.  You get a lot of fines in it as well from the grinding process.  Sets up almost as good as concrete in the right applications. 

33
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: August 11, 2017, 09:47:56 AM »
and on the rock slides you built....

That is clean washed rock.  No fines in it.  If you want compaction, you will have to buy a rock material that has fines in it.  If you keep using clean washed rock, then expect to spin out every time.  Washed rock is fine on flat surfaces, but not on inclines. 

34
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: August 11, 2017, 09:45:16 AM »
The last couple of years at H&A we started buying all Kaufman trailers.  Seemed to be built a lot stouter than anything else, and the prices were better.  So it was a double win. 

On dump trailers, we had 3-4 of them.  3 bumper pull and one gooseneck.  All three bumper pull were single cylinder scissor lift, hydraulic lift, gravity down.  Gooseneck was dual cylinder.  I can say that the single cylinder scissor lifts would get into situations of someone not paying attention and overloading them, and we would need a backhoe or trackhoe to tie on to the front of the trailer to help it lift and dump.  How much weight was it?  I have no clue.  I just know it would not dump unless another piece of equipment was there to help.  But take in to consideration that it was more than likely WAY over loaded...  I never messed with the dual cylinder gooseneck trailer much.  I know they never had any issues with it dumping though. 

Would the single cylinder scissor lift work for your application, I'm sure it will.  And if it doesn't, you have a piece of equipment or two around for assistance.  But the dual cylinder set up may surpass the unknown and give you the results your after without any assistance. 

35
Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 4
« on: July 03, 2017, 09:01:48 PM »
what he said...  ^^^^^

36
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 19, 2017, 05:30:30 PM »
Maybe a Prius?

Nah, smart car I think is more his style..... :popcorn:

Would still have more power than a ford...    :shocked:

37
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 19, 2017, 05:28:51 PM »
Tate, he traded it on a square body pro-street truck which has since been traded off too....

Ok, I knew about the truck, but missed the genesis of the whole ordeal.

Yep, traded off the mud jeep for the square body chevy, then sold the square body chevy to get rid of toys!  I am currently down to two farm trucks, the wifes car, and a company truck. 

38
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 14, 2017, 06:14:20 PM »
I'm definitely going to look at investing in one of those front grapples like you bought Don.  I've always wanted one, just didn't need it.  Now at the new place I will get a lot of use out of one. 
I use that attachment constantly

Use it like a hand with fingers to sort through a pile of logs to grab just the one you want.
Grab a big one ton rock and then place it just where you want to
I wish I would have purchased a 60" instead of the 72" for the 4720 tractor. That thing is so heavy it takes up some of the lift out of the 400CX loader. I'd get a 72" one for a 5000-6000 series tractor, go to a 60" for tractors of my size. I have the horsepower (66) but not the weight of a 5 series unit

BTW, that MX-6 is weak. The gearbox or bearing mount or something mounts to the inside layer of steel. Mine tore out of that inner piece! Nice 360 degree crack. That's why I went with the land pride. I plan to weld up the inside of mine, then sell it off the property

Copy that.  That MX-6 should be fine for the little bit of mowing it will do.  Mostly just grass around fence lines.  I save the thick work for my batwing.  It's land pride, and the heaviest model they make.  It'll take down small trees with ease. 

39
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 14, 2017, 06:12:40 PM »
Sadly, this is the only picture I could find of it recently.  And it is not current.  I did remove the factory bed, and had a flat bed installed.  Also removed the wheels and tires, and went with a simple 17" wheel with 33" Toyo m/t tires.

Didn't take you long to oil field that truck up....



Come on man...  Really?   lol

What were you expecting? Me to tell you it was pretty & pat you on the rear? Maybe a participation trophy? :popcorn: lol

A safe space with a fidget spinner would have been sufficient...  :sad:

40
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 02:13:53 PM »
I'm definitely going to look at investing in one of those front grapples like you bought Don.  I've always wanted one, just didn't need it.  Now at the new place I will get a lot of use out of one. 

41
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 02:11:53 PM »
Here's the little 45hp 5105 I picked up.  1600 hours.  Came with front pallet forks, front hay spear, front bucket, rear hay spear, rear box blade, and rear JD 6' cutter. 

42
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 02:09:59 PM »
I meant, why didn't you keep it a dually?

Or did you?

Looks like a single rear wheel in the pic

I kept it a dually.  Not converting anything!  She has all four wheels out back and will stay that way! 

43
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 02:02:11 PM »
Ash, why no dually?

Blow a tire, still have one and all that...

That truck is hauling quite a load with the deere! 6000 series?

It is a dually Don.  Not sure I follow? 

Yeah, that's my 6330 JD.  100hp.  Weighs right at 12k lbs with loader on it.  Used it primarily in hay field and to pull my 15' batwing mower.  Now that I'm out of the hay business, it will just be used around the farm for pulling that batwing and moving dirt/trees around.

I just bought a used 5105 JD 4wd open cab with loader and attachments as well.  Nice little tractor to get in and out of tight places that my big one can't. 

44
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 12:29:17 PM »
Here are the faults on this truck currently....

It will not crank unless you give it slight pedal.  If you just clutch/put in neutral and turn key, it will just keep turning over and not fire.  You have to give it slight pedal to get it to fire off.  Not sure if this is normal on older diesels or not?  I've been told the spring just has slack? 


It has several small oil leaks.  Most of what I can see is that they are just gaskets in various places.  Now, its not leaking a quart a day.  But after driving and you leave it parked, it will greet you with a half dollar sized oil leak under motor every time.  Again, nothing too concerning.  I just top it off about once a month, sometimes longer depending on how much it has been driven, with a quart.  What's the most economical way to fix the oil leaks?  Pull the entire motor and replace everything, or replace here and there as time allows?  I cant afford to have this truck down for 2-3 weeks at a time.  Down for a week, no big deal, two at most. 


The transmission will grind every time you go into third gear.  Whether up or down shifting, it's going to grind.  I have found out that if you double clutch when upshifting before hitting third, it will slide right in with no noise.  But when you down shift, it will grind no matter what.  I also have noticed that every now and then it doesn't want to grab a gear, as in there will be a slight resistance when you shift, so I catch myself remaining on the clutch, going back to neutral, and then moving into the next gear a second time.  Now this happens fast, faster then it took to type this, but there is resistance sometimes on certain gears.  I have been told that the third gear grinding is a sign that the transmission is going out.  Seems kind of obvious to me.  I was told it may last 2 months, may last two years.  I guess we will find out. 


Other than that, truck is great.  I did replace the thermostat because it was hanging last summer.  Since replacement, it stays cold. 

Only complaints I have is I wish the turbo would spool up "faster" ?  Seems to take forever to catch up when hauling. 

Not looking to make a race truck here.  This will be just a farm truck and be used to haul whatever is needed.

It does need a little front end work because I'm getting uneven where on inside tread of front tires.  More than likely just ball joints.  Also needs a new set of shocks all the way around.  Still has factory from what I can tell. 

Basically looking at getting 4k spring I believe for the pump?  What I was told to go with, so feel free to correct me.  Few other minor things I may change, but not trying to get stupid with this as I have in the past.  Simple and effective seems to be the best fit here.

Is the transmission rebuild something you're looking to tackle yourself? since we bought Zumbrota bearing and Gear in may, we have access to all manual transmission and transfercase parts. couple of vehicle details and or VIN# and I can get you anything you might want for it. Just let me know. All said, looks like a solid rig there Ash.


Thanks Tate.  I was told that for about the same money, I can just pull the trans and have a new one installed.  Can't remember the place off top of my head, but they are up North.  MO maybe?  I have a friend that runs about 4 of these one ton 12 valve dodges, and has since they came out.  He claims the best thing to do is contact that shop, buy a new trans from them, they will ship it, then ship my old back to them.  Again, I don't have any idea.  Just going off what I was told. 

I have no plans to rebuild myself!  Don't have the smarts.

45
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:44:03 AM »
Sadly, this is the only picture I could find of it recently.  And it is not current.  I did remove the factory bed, and had a flat bed installed.  Also removed the wheels and tires, and went with a simple 17" wheel with 33" Toyo m/t tires.

Didn't take you long to oil field that truck up....

I had to swap out wheels.  The factory 16" are rare around here.  Everything is 17" and up, but 17" is now factory on everything used to haul.  One ton and 3/4 ton.  I bought these wheels for cheaper than I could find a factory set.  I also needed spacers to be able to have clearance.  I didn't want a super tall tire, but needed a wide tire to stand up.  As far as exhaust, well, you know me and I like to hear my trucks running, lol.  So that goes without saying.   :shocked:

46
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:34:44 AM »
Here are the faults on this truck currently....

It will not crank unless you give it slight pedal.  If you just clutch/put in neutral and turn key, it will just keep turning over and not fire.  You have to give it slight pedal to get it to fire off.  Not sure if this is normal on older diesels or not?  I've been told the spring just has slack? 


It has several small oil leaks.  Most of what I can see is that they are just gaskets in various places.  Now, its not leaking a quart a day.  But after driving and you leave it parked, it will greet you with a half dollar sized oil leak under motor every time.  Again, nothing too concerning.  I just top it off about once a month, sometimes longer depending on how much it has been driven, with a quart.  What's the most economical way to fix the oil leaks?  Pull the entire motor and replace everything, or replace here and there as time allows?  I cant afford to have this truck down for 2-3 weeks at a time.  Down for a week, no big deal, two at most. 


The transmission will grind every time you go into third gear.  Whether up or down shifting, it's going to grind.  I have found out that if you double clutch when upshifting before hitting third, it will slide right in with no noise.  But when you down shift, it will grind no matter what.  I also have noticed that every now and then it doesn't want to grab a gear, as in there will be a slight resistance when you shift, so I catch myself remaining on the clutch, going back to neutral, and then moving into the next gear a second time.  Now this happens fast, faster then it took to type this, but there is resistance sometimes on certain gears.  I have been told that the third gear grinding is a sign that the transmission is going out.  Seems kind of obvious to me.  I was told it may last 2 months, may last two years.  I guess we will find out. 


Other than that, truck is great.  I did replace the thermostat because it was hanging last summer.  Since replacement, it stays cold. 

Only complaints I have is I wish the turbo would spool up "faster" ?  Seems to take forever to catch up when hauling. 

Not looking to make a race truck here.  This will be just a farm truck and be used to haul whatever is needed.

It does need a little front end work because I'm getting uneven where on inside tread of front tires.  More than likely just ball joints.  Also needs a new set of shocks all the way around.  Still has factory from what I can tell. 

Basically looking at getting 4k spring I believe for the pump?  What I was told to go with, so feel free to correct me.  Few other minor things I may change, but not trying to get stupid with this as I have in the past.  Simple and effective seems to be the best fit here.

47
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:23:39 AM »
Sadly, this is the only picture I could find of it recently.  And it is not current.  I did remove the factory bed, and had a flat bed installed.  Also removed the wheels and tires, and went with a simple 17" wheel with 33" Toyo m/t tires.

Didn't take you long to oil field that truck up....

Come on man...  Really?   lol

48
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:22:21 AM »
I'll have to get new pictures up soon.

A farmer owned this truck originally and he was the only owner.  It stayed parked on his farm, and he would use it to haul his camper for vacation during the off season.  He had removed the tailgate about 10 years ago because he got tired of letting it up and down, and he couldn't remember where it was.  I didn't care because I was going with a flat bed.  Drove about 7 hours up to Kansas to get this truck.  Loaded it up and hauled it home.

It is a 1997 12v dodge 5 speed 4wd.  Has sway bars front and rear.  Has factory 4:10 gears.  Had 180k original miles on it.  Power windows, power locks, power mirrors.  Clutch is tight.  Everything on this truck worked and looked like it came off the dealership lot brand new the day it was bought.  No rust, no dents, dings, scratches. 

I had a CM flatbed with led lights installed, plus a tool box/fuel tank combo.  Also had fuel tank piped into factory tank.  I removed the turbo silencer ring, and installed a MBRP 4" straight pipe exhaust.  Fit great with no cutting involved.  I also removed the factory headlights, and installed an aftermarket set.  Huge improvement for night time driving.  As stated earlier, I also removed the factory 16" wheels/tires, and went simple with a set of black 17" wheels and 33" tires.  I installed a set of spacers on the rear to ensure clearance. 

My future plans for now are to get more lights on it in the way of HID spots or/and led light bars.  I have plenty laying around.  I also need to install my Warn winch.  I haven't decided if I want to go with replacement front bumper or just keep it simple and cheap.  Considered installing a receiver hitch on the front and wiring in plug in terminals at front and rear of truck.  Then I can mount winch on a 2" receiver, and keep it portable.  When not going off road, leave winch at the shop.  If I know I'm going off road, I can bring winch and use to pull truck from front or rear by simply sliding it into receiver and plugging up.  Open for opinions here from everyone...


49
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:11:39 AM »
Sadly, this is the only picture I could find of it recently.  And it is not current.  I did remove the factory bed, and had a flat bed installed.  Also removed the wheels and tires, and went with a simple 17" wheel with 33" Toyo m/t tires. 


50
Build Threads / Re: Whats Next...
« on: June 13, 2017, 11:09:56 AM »
Few more of exterior...  Love those pawpaw running boards, lol

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