REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: JR on November 06, 2018, 11:23:01 PM
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Figured A new thread is in order with a new (older) base Suburban.
Haven't got it home yet, but paid for and registered. No Smog!!!!
Took a few more pics and here is where I am starting.
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The good;
Starts easy, not to loud or much rattle, hardly any smoke. NO SMOG NEEDED, EVER!
Hydro brakes from the factory.
4L80 transmission, shifts good, all electrical seems to work, even the windows but they need rebuilding.
4inch Lift, 33in tires, 2 are OK but no cord showing
Barn Doors, no rust, glass all good
The bad?
Door dent is a little worse than it looks and actually goes from the front door to the rear panel a little.
Looks like a home made turbo setup and still not sure if its a 6.2 or 6.5
Exhaust goes down through the right fender liner, then back and under the frame to the stock muffler, sure its home made.
No 3rd row seat (but I have one) No headliner.
Has a newer style receiver welded under the stock and will need to be cut off.
Lines cut off for the AC and the rear unit removed.
The plan;
Finish up the original Sub with parts from this (lift, tires/wheels, bumpers) and flip it, so I loose no $$$ at all.
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Gotta admit that exhaust is creative in a Mad Max kinda way... :beercheers:
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Gotta admit that exhaust is creative in a Mad Max kinda way... :beercheers:
That was my exact 1st thought. what year is this again JR?
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85 and it is a 4L80, so thinking it is a 6.5. Plus it has the vacuum pump below where the 6.2 was on top. Then again it has reg belts vs a serpentine system which says 6.2.
Working on ride to get it now, just an hour away.
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That's pretty brave of you to drive it home... sure it starts and drives around the farm, but how does it handle on the road? Is it safe? Do you have access to a trailer?
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Probably as safe as those NAFTA trucks
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This why I am a member of AAA+ 200 miles of towing great piece of mind!
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Having someone follow and don't plan on breakneck speeds. Tires are OK too. May happen tonite,,,,,,,,
Yes, I have AAA+100 just in case!
You guts will love the turbo and air cleaner. I thought it had an intercooler at first.
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Well, it did happen tonite. :beercheers: Buddy ran me up, followed back as planned, just took way longer than planned.
Blew a little smoke for the first few miles. Most of the lights worked, 2 windows were open but the heater and radio worked good.
Wasn't sure of the fuel as it was blow 1/4, so I dropped in $50 which brought me up past half. Water light was blinking so hoping that would displace it enough.
So fuel gauge works, some of the dash lights. Oil is pegged out and voltage showed 12 but rose and fell with rpm so GTG.
It did 65 easy all the way and pulled good but is no dmax for sure. Thought it was dripping oil when we stopped for diner in Lincoln but stick showed full (black as you know what).
Dropped at moms house for now as no where to park it now. No oil was there when parked so it must have been from another vehicle.
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Step one and two accomplished. Great start. This is gonna be good.
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What do we say about these 6.5's?
I was thinking they were OK. Relocate the PMD, bolt on a different turbo from a 6BT 12 valve, change up the exhaust and it starts to approach stock LB7 specs. For just plain moving peeps around in a burb, wouldn't that be pretty OK?
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Actually, it moves around pretty well. No jerk you up torque, but it did 65 easy all the way home and moved well with foot pressure. It does have a little surge when driving, like the TC is unlocking.
It will get cleaned up and then a fluid change. I may address a few small things in the motor but the idea is a solid runner and clean ride.
Will clean up today and really see what motor I have so I can address the PMD and lift pump.
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Moms back in the hospital so not much done.
Did find out the door locks work, well 3 of em. First thing is to get the windows working so I can lock it up.
Doesn't leak bad at all, yet. Need a boost gauge and figure out the system it has. Still wondering why the clamp is there?
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What’s PMD??
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That turbo setup is not stock, but I'm sure you know that
Someone coble some other turbo onto the side of the motor??? Necessitating running the exhaust through your tie rods, up and over the brake caliper and down the beltline trim on the door?
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What’s PMD??
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Fuel injector/timing control module thingy
Usually goes bad bc of really dumb factory mounting spot. Fix is to relocate it to the bumper! (Really)
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Why did I think they were mechanical injection?
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Why did I think they were mechanical injection?
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6.2's were
that changed with the 6.5
Not nearly as sophisticated as our present day D-Max
Old school very high compression ratio detroit diesel.
I have often wondered where that engine may end up with a significantly lowered compression ratio and 25-30 psi of boost with the fuelling to match?
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The PMD controls the fuel solenoid. They mounted the critter in the valley on the pump!
The air cleaner on this looks like an intercooler at first. Turbo drain is running into the fuel pump block and comes off the turbo at about 45* angle vs on the bottom.
Hard to get good pictures when EVRYTHING is black.
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I was going to mention that 6.2s where mechanical but figured JR knew that. He seems to be a walking encyclopedia on Chebbies.
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I’m just gunna point out you all are really showing your age with the knowledge base of these old dinosaurs. Not sure why Charles isn’t up to speed on them though as Nate confirmed last week he is older than cast iron. Which I think the cast Iron Age started in the early to mid 1800’s right Ken? :tongue:
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Isn't that about as old as his girlfriend?
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Other than tinkering with my uncles 6.2my LB7 was my first experience with diesels. It was a tough introductory lesson
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Ordered a pyro and boost gauge with pillar mount and new front window regulators/motors.
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Got everything for a fluid change today and found it has a swaybar disconnect.
Need to match up the black wheels and get a couple more tires. They will get swapped to spartan 1 for its sale.
Check out how they sealed the tires on the front. Now I need to figure what turbo I have.
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it will be fun adding AC back if you decide to do that!
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it will be fun adding AC back if you decide to do that!
Oh I am! None of the wiring is cut but the rear unit is gone. Need to add a dryer (cut line) and block the rear lines that are cut off in the cab.
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Is that spray foam? wth
That turbo actually looks like it's from a 6.5 iirc .....Weird.
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Yep, he used spray foam to reseat the bead. Held air for a week so I drove it.
6.5 iirc, do the numbers help?
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Edit.... removed my latest ramblings.
Here's a thread on Steel Soldiers that shows similar hack jobs with similar turbos.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esteelsoldiers%2Ecom%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D43430&share_tid=43430&share_fid=20191&share_type=t
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I actually saw that thread in a search. Pain seeing the pics as not a member.
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Here's a couple.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181110/0bc28f310e055c708cf9c7c030e821a3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181110/442b8d891f6976191daea17e6ec39a05.jpg)
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So they only use the passenger manifold to drive the turbo?
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The drivers side crosses over the the rear of the turbo side, then it all mixes and some goes to the turbo.
It is only pushing 10psi also. Some will see 12. The Banks manifold is nice but too pricey for this. If I was keeping the motor I would redo the system, stud the motor and have some fun. It runds good so going to add a few gauge and clean some stuff up is all. Been doing lots of reading, just glad I got the 100hp setup.
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I that pic above it has the waste gate mode and no AC (probably a 90s truck.
Just uses a spring on the WG vs a vacuum canister and you can dump the belt drive pump for it as that is all it runs!
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The vacuum pump should be for A/C, egr, and cruise stuff. The waste gate supposed to work off of intake pressure, not vacuum.
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No EGR on this, but it does have a funny oil vent system pre-turbo. I do want the other items though so maybe it will not go. I kinda liked how they have it on the 6.2 though, cam driven.
Did an oil change, fuel filter and lots of additive today. Made a mess :rolleyes: Lost prime to the motor (lift pump up top) and used pressure to get it going. I ordered a new lift pump for this from summit that is a pass through. Will run it with a relay also as stock they are driven via just a pressure switch.
New window moldings/felts ordered too. Bent a few lines to clear other things too, lots of little things I see to make it solid.
Need a real air cleaner I can carry over the 6BT also, this setup is a joke, but it only gets cold air. And look at the battery setup! Tested the Oil pressure sender and it seems to work, but I question the location both for it and the turbo oil. Traced the sender wire and it was only 3 inches long,,,,,,,,,,,,
Now the turbo feed is 45* rotated towards the firewall and the drain is 180 from that. Pretty sure that is not optimal at least for the drain. Looks like it can remedied but how critical is it? I may have to remove the turbo anyway for the air cleaner and intake leak.
Also noticed a chunk out of the balancer which I hear is common and bad news?
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Found a wire on the engine top and hooked it up the oil pressure sender, worked great. Had over 40psi at idle.
While digging, found I have a 6.2, not an issue but still want to ID the block.
Put a pressure gauge on the intake, only 4psi so far. Should be 10-12, needs to be addressed for sure.
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A 6.2 should have a place for a mechanical fuel pump to, if you wanted to get rid of that high mount electric thumper.
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Going with a lift down near the tank. That boss is the turbo drain.
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Been buying parts and struggling to get it to start all the time. Got a similar battery and redid the cables (what a mess) using military style clamps. Most cables got new crimped and soldered connectors. Will add the correct color heat shrink when it comes in and + post covers.
Now it starts great but the glow plugs just seem to run work when they want to. Picked up a bypass setup that uses a relay and momentary switch, that is next when the rain stops some with the lift pump/filter.
Rear door opened up for window motor. Needs a new lock solenoid also and someone removed the little rod for the manual lock I need to find now.
I have seen were they have a relay kit for the windows so the switches don't do all the work.
Also want to find a remote kit for it and add a solenoid to the rear door. Any of you guys have a system you recommend? There are so many out there it is nuts!!
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I would like to address some of the turbo setup too. It works, but I see issues with it. As is, it puts out 4psi, which I read can go as high as 10, but 8 is safe. The oil drain is 45* off center and they mangled the AC stuff to get it in there. Plus I want my AC back. Need a new housing, evap and dryer.
Biggest is where the turbo sits. It should fit forward more with the intake forward. I think the air filter is an issue too. Makes three 90* and then is really taped to the filter housing which looks like a DIY box that is cold air at least, 3in. Easiest fix here would be the Banks pass manifold, but they are $350. It would require a new downpipe (inside the frame at least!) and a crossover. I have looked the van and HMVV manifolds, but they just don't seem to work.
New air filter sitting on the pass fender is the way to go. Then I can get cold air from the window area or a snorkel. Research shows a 95+ gm truck filter setup may work. I am leaning towards that or a round HD tractor filter if I can find the right one.
The 6.2 is growing on me more and more, but it will never be a 6BT either.
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Nice update.
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Got covers for the battery terminals. It also starts easy all the time now so the effort was really worth it.
Got my 2nd set of spacers in, billet so they are stronger than most wheels. 2.5in with 14mm studs onto the 9/16 stock studs giving me a 4.5bs. This allows running the H1 wheels on the stock axles and can put on stock wheels if need be anytime. Thinking of running a steel outer shim so the H1 wheel bolts up to it flat and not into the machined surface with BIG holes.
If the rain quits this week I am going to put the front lift springs on to level this thing out. It has a 4 inch block in back and I can replace that with a 2in I have or just throw the new springs out back. I need the lift for the 37 tires.
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I need ideas too on the air cleaner. I posted a couple ideas in post 42. The 90s GM filter will work, but I want a round canister if I can find one that doesn't break the bank.
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Something like this JR?
https://www.amazon.com/Donaldson-kfP613679-P613679-Filter/dp/B00KNIZEY6/ref=asc_df_B00KNIZEY6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241898984112&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11362561757702934452&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030014&hvtargid=pla-586839948213&psc=1#
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I like this style but some don't show the inlet/outlet sizes:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Donaldson-G065433-Air-Filter-Housing-Everything-Included-for-Install/1168970154?iid=272688108726&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fp%25252FDonaldson-G065433-Air-Filter-Housing-Everything-Included-for-Install%25252F1168970154%25253Fiid%25253D272688108726%252526chn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D272688108726%2526targetid%253D593772290053%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9030014%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1689945013%2526adgroupid%253D69559042287%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-593772290053%2526abcId%253D1140466%2526merchantid%253D118877791%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-8EiZQ6JWrGJEau3ajqlQsmaK7Jo69QBHfG0CgGfcZYSLHo_Da7dJRoCs4sQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1845947071333%2526rvr_ts%253Db94ca26b1680ada1d8b148bafff8fb84
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Those are close, but I need a side outlet, center in. I think the first one is for a lawn tractor.
I did some searching too, need something I can lay flat, change filter from the top.
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Oof. Good luck.
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Find an old duramax factory intake
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I don't want to pull the air from the fender, but guess I could block that side off and run a tube to where I want.
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It gives ya a start point, you could do like that dodge green truck we used to get excited about and build a snorkel?
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Not sure about a snorkel, does that green thing run??
Looking at pulling air from the inlet area below the window. Could always add to that.
The KnN 38-2006S looks interesting, but need the R version in that size.
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Even though the 6BT is planned for this, I decided to get the stock setup working as best I could for now. To much on the plate for full swap right now.
With that in mind, I ordered a banks exhaust manifold for the turbo. It will allow the turbo to be turned and moved forward. This will allow better flow and let me put the AC back in working order.
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I also pulled the front springs off for the new springs as this thing has about a 4in rake right now. New springs are a 6in lift with and added military wrap and I removed the short spring on the bottom since I don't have a 1k engine in there now.
Naturally the mount had to be drilled out to 9/16. Throwing in the greaseable bolts after cutting the stocks out. A 8lb sledge would budge them, rears were fine.
Ordered new engine mount poly inserts as the current seemed to be crushed. After these go in I need to address the shift linkage as it has a rake to it (probably 4l80 swap).
Spooged up the steering damper jacking it up, so a replacement is on my summit order with new bump stops for the lift. Nice thing is the shocks seem plenty long.
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Progress!!
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So far so good? No flip flops for working huh?
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I don't understand working on stuff like this without shoes of some type. I was moving the H1 tires today and one layed over on my foot, thought it was broke at first. Pulled what feels like my hamstring, sucks getting old.
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Well, 2 steps forward and 1 back. Got all new hardware for the springs, then found the rear leaf spring bushing is shot and need to order.
Then new springs with military wrap will rub on the frame, so I need to make new shackles. We have a cool metal shop here in town. Cost $6 for 4 pieces of 2x1/4x61/2 bar. Just need to round the corners and drill holes.
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So far so good? No flip flops for working huh?
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Dave, flip flops are summer welding gear.... :knucklehead:
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So far so good? No flip flops for working huh?
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Dave, flip flops are summer welding gear.... :knucklehead:
Or for hippies working on 1/4 ton vehicles.
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So far so good? No flip flops for working huh?
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Dave, flip flops are summer welding gear.... :knucklehead:
Or for hippies working on 1/4 ton vehicles.
Hey now, with the Currie 9 and HD OME coil springs I’m sure it’s at least 1/3 of a ton rating! Hard to get any respect around here.... :tongue:
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Well, popped that out as I had new bushings in hand, then the 2 steps back hit again :huh:
The frame mount is shot. Not really that unexpected, but that put me on hold again.
Now who's to get? LMC truck has the stocks for $50 each, DiYx4 has a pair for $114 with new bushings.
Thinking I may just slide the axle up an inch now too. That was the plan with the H1 tires.
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What's wrong with it Jr? Can't tell in the pic... did it wear through the tube?
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What's wrong with it Jr? Can't tell in the pic... did it wear through the tube?
The bushings are worn clean through and the sleeve was riding a good 1/16 into the mount. Not surprized, it is 34 years old,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Are Kurt’s parts an upgrade from stock JR?
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Why not try out those sliding leaf spring hangers in it Jr?
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Shackles are fine on this setup, need the height.
Kurt, is that DIY4x ?
Yes they are supposed to be an upgrade from the stock cast piece and they have the front hangers too.
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Shackles are fine on this setup, need the height.
Kurt, is that DIY4x ?
Yes they are supposed to be an upgrade from the stock cast piece and they have the front hangers too.
Yeah, sorry JR I should have stated that better. He does nice work, if you’re gunna fix it might as well upgrade it.
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Funny how simple things like fluid changes and leaf spring swaps get outa hand.
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Ordered new front hangers, new rear frame hangers and some J shackles since the axle is moving forward. So much for saving on the shackles, but puts me where I need to be later too.
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Just waiting on parts and watching the rain.
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Funny how simple things like fluid changes and leaf spring swaps get outa hand.
I heard that!
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Some parts came in, clear outside but still need the big parts.
They come tomorrow, when the rain starts again,,,,,,,,,,
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Rest of my parts showed up. The DIY4x stuff is really nice. Got some angle 1/4 iron to attach the front hangers.
Rain started again as I go the front up and blew off few more parts.
Will need to drop the sway bar and found it already has a raised steering arm. The 4in springs are about 2-3in under the mounts with the new springs right on the frame.
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New springs look good. How much arch difference? Compared to the old saggy springs
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The new springs have 3in more arch than what looks like 4in lift springs. Sure they will settle some but I like the look right now. Will probably be a little stiffer.
Tried a little body work on the drivers rear door. Pulled out a lot of it using the HF stud tool, but still not really that good. Still has a couple pockets that are not pulling out and you cannot get behind it. No repair panels are out there for this and china doors (poor quality) are $400. Will play with it a little more, skim it with bondo and see how it holds up. Can always get a scrap yard door.
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JR, to do that right skin needs to come off and be worked out as you know. Not sure I would go bondo route unless it’s a quick fix to move it down the road.
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Yep, looking at the damage from the pins I think I will get some holes from them. Half of them pulled off when pulling. Bad part is still about 3/8 deep.
A skin would be better, but a door is probably in the future. It has a few pins left on it now and I threw a coat of primer on it for now.
Tomorrow I am going to cut the spring hangers off.
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JR, our lot has at least 3 burbs like that. If you need something I’ll go get it for you.... including doors.
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Thx, I have plenty of access to yards out here if I go that way.
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Go that way, there is plenty of good Sheetmetal out here, invest the time in something good!
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Looking a little more at the door I thing it will be OK. Has one real pocket to fill but the rest is real only a skim coat probably 1/8 at the most.
Addressing the coolers too. This has an Oil Cooler but is the tube style, plumbed bad and retains oil during a change.
Will swap out that for a 11x8x1.25 plate cooler (same size) and redo the lines for a straight shot forward, not near the exhaust.
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Ordered a ORD steering box brace and the plates. My frame is fine from what I can see but I about to bolt some heavy stuff on there.
Will just mount the outer plate and the brace. Already has a high steer arm on the knuckle, hopefully that is enough with the new springs and a new steering stabilizer as the stock one is leaking because someone jacked the axle up with it!!
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JR, our lot has at least 3 burbs like that. If you need something I’ll go get it for you.... including doors.
You know, I could use a couple roof bows. I have 1 but looks like I will need 3 so I can DIY the thing.
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JR, our lot has at least 3 burbs like that. If you need something I’ll go get it for you.... including doors.
You know, I could use a couple roof bows. I have 1 but looks like I will need 3 so I can DIY the thing.
I’ll look next time I’m down. I need to look at some seat pedestal things and get some measurements.
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Sounds good, no rush!
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Got the rest of my parts but on hold through the weekend. Having an Estate/garage sale.
I need to make bump stop drops and sway bar drop. Both pretty easy.
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Well, back onto this again too. So much going on in the last 6 months or so with mom passing. Time for projects again as I wait on stuff for Raptor Ridge.
Blew the front spring hangers off tonite. Tomorrow hope to get to the rear hitch and hangers inside the frame.
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Found out the oil cooler JUST goes to the radiator, no air cooling at all.
Should I retain this or add air cooling too? Goes without saying those lines get upgraded.
The old tube cooler was for the tranny. For some reason it crosses over and does not use the radiator at all. Will for sure move it the pass side. Not even sure if there are ports for it on the Rad?
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Oh, any luck on those Sub parts?
Couple bows and the lock pins would be great.
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Forgot how nice it is to use the plasma cutter. Made short work of the rear receiver mess. These little bolts were rated to tow way to much.
Looks so much better without that hanging out back.
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So, you don't have an impact gun?
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But the sparks don’t fly wit an impact
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So, you don't have an impact gun?
Uh sparks and fire dude, who wants to use an impact...... bzzz bzzzz boring! :tongue:
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If you use an impact right, you can get sparks!! :beercheers: Besides that, you need to drop the tank for those front bolts.
Started with a torch, hense the burn mark by the tank (rubber burning)
Got 1 rear hanger left (well 3 of the rivits left) burned the heads off with the plasma. Using air hammer is working OK, but driver side space limited with AC lines that need to come out.
All the DIY4X stuff is ready to go. Adding the steering braces too while all opened up per say.
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Going to order the rear bumper tube this week. 1/4 wall 6x6 sq tube. Should be strong and hold some air.
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Looked off and on and finally there was a sub at a PnP up in Sac. So Tuesday I ran up, paid my $2 and found they had 2 suburban there.
So I grab the 2 rods I need for the door locks and both had the headliner trim, so I snagged em both. (3 is perfect For upgrades)
One actually had a fair condition headliner, so I thought why not. JFI they are foam backed cardboard stock, and get nasty. What I do is lay it out close to natural shape and fiberglass the back. Did that to me dads old blazer and it came out great.
So soon as this tree trimming adventure is over, going to get this thing back on the road.
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Got an intercooler for a 90's ford that is wide enough to clear a narrow radiator, barely. For the 12v really but might help the dog in there now since it's turbo'd.
Ended up sending it back. Was really a nice IC but the turn ins went right through the rad support, supports and still didn't quite clear the Rad (narrow one)
So I need one without turn ins and just get 90 boots for it.
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OK, so who can get auto paint (enamel or acrylic) matched to a part I have for the Burb?
Want single stage, just touching up some stuff before it gets the whole treatment (might be awhile)
I found some place in NV, but they want $90 a quart!
(yes this is a double post)
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OK, so who can get auto paint (enamel or acrylic) matched to a part I have for the Burb?
Want single stage, just touching up some stuff before it gets the whole treatment (might be awhile)
I found some place in NV, but they want $90 a quart!
(yes this is a double post)
NAPA is who ive always taken stuff to. but i’m not sure i’d that’s just the one by me or all of them.
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Not here. Ca has really shut all that down.
Even ACE was good, they are gone for mixer paint too cept house stuff.
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Wow, been a year since I touched this, but off we go again. Not that I have any projects going, right.
Have to get rid of the 91 and get the 85 running again. Few pieces to go on the 91 and up it goes for sale, the guy who wanted it backed out. I will then address the rust on the pillars with POR15 and FG tape. Not a critical area, but need to look nice and be sealed. Also found the AC condenser was bad, so I picked up a new off Amazon for well under $100. Have what I need to clear/charge the system so hopefully good there. Also snagged another TB for it but still have new injectors and the spacer for it. If this gets its running it should sell easy.
May have found a k30 dually dana 60 for 85 too, will know tomorrow. Just 40mi away. The 10blt is just sitting there now so I will slide this in and worry about the little things a tad later. Started putting the new springs under it but need to drill the frame for the DIY4x4 mounts. I made a jig by cutting one side off the stock mounts. Only need to add a oil cooler and she should start right up. Should have seen the mess when I started it and forgot the OC was removed, got a stacked cooler for the 4L80 in now. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/woodland-dana-60-kingpin/7167981211.html
Most of this comes about now as I need the Dmax lifted with the new gears for the coming winter and the prop. Selling the 91 and getting the 85 going agian clears the driveway for all this, and about time I got to it also!
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Got the 60, in pretty good shape. Feels a little loose, but smooth.
Saw this and though of Don, 2 cyl gas and its green.
The yard was a pickers dream too. There was a nice little excavator I was eyeing where he had a dually parked. Lots of little dozers too, but few with buckets and no 6 ways.Only part about that was bad is the hay squeeze he used to pickup the rear blead out and crushed the dually bed side right to the FG well.
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Where's the pic of the dually carnage?
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Where's the pic of the dually carnage?
Didn't get, the 60 was hanging and I was moving my truck for loading.
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Pain to unload on a slanted driveway. Looks pretty good, will check the specs.
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Pulled the cover and verified the 4.10 ratio. Was very clean inside. This had concerned me as the vent was open and pointed up when I got it.
Play seems to be in the spiders so far. Left pad shows a repair on the inside weld and the spring hole is elongated. I also need to make a spacer for the springs. The GM 60 is made for 3in springs, mine are 2.5.
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Pain to unload on a slanted driveway. Looks pretty good, will check the specs.
You have a skid loader..... :rolleyes:
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Pulled the cover and verified the 4.10 ratio. Was very clean inside. This had concerned me as the vent was open and pointed up when I got it.
Play seems to be in the spiders so far. Left pad shows a repair on the inside weld and the spring hole is elongated. I also need to make a spacer for the springs. The GM 60 is made for 3in springs, mine are 2.5.
Looks horrible, send it to me and I’ll dispose of it properly for you.
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Loader is 150mi away.
I am selling my other dana 60, mostly pulled apart. Should recoup some cost.
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Pulled the cover and verified the 4.10 ratio. Was very clean inside. This had concerned me as the vent was open and pointed up when I got it.
Play seems to be in the spiders so far. Left pad shows a repair on the inside weld and the spring hole is elongated. I also need to make a spacer for the springs. The GM 60 is made for 3in springs, mine are 2.5.
Looks horrible, send it to me and I’ll dispose of it properly for you.
I'm closer and need it more. Plus, you're a hippy.
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And you carry around H and 100 year old pistols, pretty sure I win..... :tongue:
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Maybe that’s why he needs the extra axle from haulin around all that H
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Offered the other 91 I have to a friend who has helped me out and had some interest in it. Needs a little work to run but will tow to his house.
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On the dually 60 and the 14blt I am thinking of adding a small truss. In my day it was all under the axle. Now for clearance issues everything is up top.
Figure with the heavy engine going in and a small shave of the 14bt, trusses should help. For the shave, just looking at the basic like the barnes kit does. I already have a HD cover so would trim it down.
So looking for ideas for a basic truss for both axles. Just running leafs and I don't need all these crazy things you moslty see now. Guess I could build my own, but a simple weld on would be nice.
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Hmm, guess I'm on my own for this part.
Since I have 3 setups going I got one of these puller/press setups. Yukon was over $500, this was $200 shipped. Quality looks good, now to try it out.
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JR, I have the Yukon puller and it’s quality and used weekly.
I make a 13 bolt / 14 bolt cover btw. So what’s the plan for this truck? Typically Cummins equipped trucks aren’t off road rigs (No offense Phil). So that begs several questions, why worry about ground clearance and why bother trussing it? Are you planning on wheels leaving earth? Truss seams way overkill. Box frame and reinforce steering box area imo and forget about it.
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I may wheel it some, but not the extreme you see on vids. Wheeled hard enough for riders to want out, but take care of my vehicles. Rubi is just stone throw from me, but never been in 30 years here. I think the 14blt will be fine, but a truss on the 60 can't hurt. Have truetracs front and rear.
Will be a commute and camping rig, prob no heavy towing. If I pull the body, I will box the frame. Did that without pulling the body on my 77 and just the cab was a pain. When the shop is closed in, should be easier then. For now the 6.2 turbo will stay put with the 4L80. Going to remount the turbo and setup water cooling. I have the 3rd seat which comes in handy too
Doing crossover and I have a 2x steering box already, frame plate and the truss. I have covers already (thx), got it all when I started the build way back when. I do have a set of reverse cut d60 4.56 gears someplace,,,,,,,,,,
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Hmm, guess I'm on my own for this part.
Since I have 3 setups going I got one of these puller/press setups. Yukon was over $500, this was $200 shipped. Quality looks good, now to try it out.
we let the patent run out, (hence the copies) then we ran out of inventory when someone scooped up a couple hundred of them at one time so now the price reflects air freight getting replacement inventory in. I would have gotten you a deal but $200 is stealing! hope it holds up well for you. I'm sure it'll be just fine JR, just make sure you have those rings snugged up before you hit the air. ask me how I know, lol.
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Is that the spreader? Never used one before.
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Is that the spreader? Never used one before.
Bearing puller, if you do it properly you can pull a bearing w/o damage. If you don’t do it properly it ends up in a million pieces. Don’t ask how I know......
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Pulling the 60 apart more to sell the other, but setup for this one too. Bearings, trutrac, 35 outers and yukon hubs. This dually axle is really clean inside.
Was looking at the DIY4x ABomb spring/winch frame system, would take a lot of work out of it. But they are 8-10 weeks out, guess my DIY4x front mounts and generic winch plate still have a home.
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Got these threads all straightened out here. Merged this with another and closed the 1991 thread (with a link here)
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Been doing a little on this. Main project on hold getting the Dmax finished, but this needs to drive first. Got a trip coming up I hope!
I did find almost everything to convert the 6.2 to serpentine drive. All it needs is the ac pump (new smaller version) and a pulley for the power steering. Running 1 belt will be so much better than all the intertwined belts now. Also found a dual thermo setup and kinda pondering going with a NV4500/5600 if it turns up.
This means I can run a better water pump and even a Dmax fan system, but will probably go electric.
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JR, please tell me you are bringing that ancient diesel...Please! I so much want to see that thing and how a detroit diesel acts crawling around and pulling.
So I think I mentioned that Kat and I will be abiding in the camper. No room in there for anyone else, like the pre-ranger, so he can choose between going spartan on the inside of the burb or swinging open the rooftop tent.
Now here is where it gets interesting. That rooftop could hold two, as in one of you in a pinch. Additionally I also have the tent annex that attaches to the tent bottom that makes a room with a floor. That will keep two more dry and the chill off. I'll bring that if you all think you may need it. Caveat, Shawn is pinning all his hopes on stringing up a hammock stretched between my burb and his jeep. I want to keep at least one of those aforementioned spaces open to him and possibly his girl(s) just in case they need a better place to hunker down.
We will see warm days but chilly nights. Duane who was raised in Wyoming told me of snow on the 4th of July one year at night. Having done a lot of time out in the desert at night, but not there, I'll tell you the possibility for strong and possibly destructive winds is real. I have seen nights out there where I was in the only surviving tent out of 20-30 of them. Don't be surprised to encounter a sudden dust storm and 70 mph winds from virga from a collapsing Nimbus cloud.
Should any of that happen, my truck is wide open to any and all to get out of the elements.
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And, I'm hammerin' down on asking who is coming, and who is pretty sure. I will need to order T-shirts, and Shawn needs to talk with the Dual purpose folks who are providing the maps. They can put the info of our hippy assault force out there so folks know we are coming inmasse, or enmasse, or "a whole bunch of us."
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My plan now is for the Dmax, newly lifted, running 37s with the posi rear. It is a solid rig.
As time allows I am getting the Sub going. Solid rig but still need to shove the truetrac axles under it.
Sleeping is no issue. I have tents, heaters and a cot and air mattress. My bones don't like the ground anymore.
Half of the parts I just grabbed are extra, big thing was the serp system.
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My plan now is for the Dmax, newly lifted, running 37s with the posi rear. It is a solid rig.
As time allows I am getting the Sub going. Solid rig but still need to shove the truetrac axles under it.
Sleeping is no issue. I have tents, heaters and a cot and air mattress. My bones don't like the ground anymore.
Half of the parts I just grabbed are extra, big thing was the serp system.
Good plan
Our trucks sitting on 37's are very capable. The only issue would be tight squeeze spots or maneuvering around trees. Give us a little straighter path and I think we could just about keep up with anything.
I have noticed more spinning with the dura-trac looking tires. Not as much of that with mud tires, but mud tires only work for a short period of time, then get noisy, vibrate and get replaced. So far this Kanati trail hogs are amongst the best tire I have ever used.
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I am due for tires, down to about .250. That posi in the Dmax is like a locker, both seem to grab all the time.
Sub is getting H1 still, we will see how they fair. Have cooper stt for the max.
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Moving forward on few things. Installed a new plate cooler for the trans. It had a tube cooler about the same size which "held" oil in by design. Besides the plate cooler being so much better, it is solid mounted like OEM vs the dreaded through ties on the tube.
Batteries were null, so did a nice float/repair on the pair and seem to be holding very well for now. In fact the Burb almost started right up and ran great with just a few turns of the key.
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That’s some good looking progress
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A little but got a little more done. Started working on the seats, you can't really call what is in there "seats" right now.
Have some 2 tone blue grey I got from PnP that look nice, but will need a little moding to fit on the rails (very little). Then sunday I got these pull out from a 88 that bolt right in. Not in terrible shape but the arm rests need work. Right now I like the 2 tone (son said sit in then to try out, smart kid who broke his arm)
Got a center counsole and the roof rails (just playing here), AC lines and little parts too. (fun when you have a like vehicle to go over)
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Then just looking around on FB (dangerous) I found a set of 5 H2 wheels with tires. I still plan on the real H1 combo, but this will get me running now. Only 3 tires are really good but lots of tire deals on FB (did I say dangerous). Think they look awesome on Sparty.
Think I posted elseware, but I scored a new tire machine and balancer on FB a few weeks back. Got for the Ridge, but no rush getting up there right now.
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JR, assuming this is trans trail duty?
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JR, assuming this is trans trail duty?
Lots to do before I get to that point. First I am making sure a couple things are finished on the Dmax, then all out on the Burb.
Buy the way, not posted in that thread but my son and I are in for the trip.
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JR, assuming this is trans trail duty?
Lots to do before I get to that point. First I am making sure a couple things are finished on the Dmax, then all out on the Burb.
Buy the way, not posted in that thread but my son and I are in for the trip.
:likebutton:
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Posted in my DMax thread but here it is with the new tires/wheels. Looks way better I think. Not 37s but getting there.
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Well, I wasn't going to buy that from you JR, but now I may have to!
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Well, I wasn't going to buy that from you JR, but now I may have to!
Well, this one is not for sale. Pre smog turbo is like gold out here.
Trying to find front spring bushings now. Stocks were to wide on the front for the mounts, easy fix. Issue is I cant find ones for the rear eye. Been looking for bushing by size but nothing come up (limited lists). If I can figure how to cut mine down might be the easiest. Flange needs to be .125 vs .250 and the bore has to be .75 to match the shackles and bolts.
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I could have used the stock 7/16 bolts, but I have new HD shackles and rear mounts that all uses 9/16 greaseable bolts.
Front bushings were 1/2 to wide for the DIY4x hangers, but it all just came together.
Using the new DIY4x hanger bushings will narrow the front by the 1/2 needed. Then I machine down the same bushing for the rear spring, which keeps the 3/4 sleeve for the 9/16 bolt.
So by using the easy to get DIY4x bushings (#2004) and just turning the body down to 1.125 I get the 1/4 shoulder, the .75 bore and it fits into the spring end. This allows me to the 9/16 bolts and bushing in everything (I think the rear uses the same). The as is 2004 bushing fits the front eye without moding at all.
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Clever fix!
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Just ran into that on a blazer with rancho springs. There's a special set made just for them.
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These are the DIY 2004s. They are $8. Other sets I'm finding are $20. What number/manf do you get?
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What was your time worth to figure all that out though?
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I maybe spent an hour, then figured the trimming out.
Biggest thing is I wanted to retain the 9/16 bolt for all the joints.
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These are the DIY 2004s. They are $8. Other sets I'm finding are $20. What number/manf do you get?
Same issue I had, with the larger bolt/small bushings, but I did find them.. just don't remember where.. possibly Energy. I know they were more than 20.00 tho.
.. and I think they were super lift springs instead of rancho. ICR
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.. just found the invoice . It might help the next guy. Basically $60 tho.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210403/0c8a076edc5931ac564ab96ae7c3aeb2.jpg)
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Looks like their Prothane. I see others listed when I searched the #. Each set is $25-50. 2004 # comes up as energy suspension for $16 each.
DIY are $8, but just for one and it works. Little more for shipping but I need a couple more bolts.
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So today, Easter I had planned on just staying home. But a killer deal popped up on FB, 4 H2 wheels for $50 less than an hour away. So the youngest and I took a ride to the Sac area (I hate it on weekends) and scored them. I offered the guy $60 and he gave me $10 change!
I have to swap a few tires as 4 of the 5 I got are chrome rims and need some serious cleaning. Now I have 5 painted H2 wheels and have my eye on a 6th with a new BF/KO tire on it. So now I have 9, scoping a 10th with just $350 invested. Painted look so much better Might put on the trailer too to lower it a tad and match up.
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What are you going to do with ten wheels ?
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5 for the sub, probably give the other to my buddy or sell to recoup $$.
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What are you going to do with ten wheels ?
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Don may need five of them...
Darned shame, I literally just dropped off the five wheels on my Suburban this afternoon at the powder coat shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Oooh, fancy powder coat!
Been going through all the stuff and found I have most all the bushings/bolts I need. Couple more boxes today, looking for back seat floor covers so I can do all the seats.
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This is next now that the bushing are figured out. The rear front spring hanger stock is OK for a stock truck. The DIY4x are twice as beefy, better greaseable poly bushings and now all 9/16 bolts. Think I showed the stock rubber bushing before that was wore all the way through and uses a 7/16 bolt. And look at the stock shackle (bent) vs the new longer one.
Also scored another painted H2 wheel with an almost new tire on it.
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Pulled the chrome trim from the windows, replacing with black. Same with mirrors, trying to knock down the "flash".
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Dropped the front axle to work on the steering box bracing and upgrade the motor mounts.
Keeping the front 10 bolt for just now with the H2 wheels.
Put a new master cylinder on, old was just a pile of rust even though it still worked. Drained the front when I pulled the axle so will bleed the whole system.
Popped off the last spring hanger with my new Ingersol air hammer.
Added a bigger pulley on the compressor (3.5 to 4.5) jumping the CFM up to a decent rate.
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The lawn looks good, missin a drink in that blue chair
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Looking good. Explain the compressor thing. Wouldn’t a smaller pulley increase the output?
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Looking good. Explain the compressor thing. Wouldn’t a smaller pulley increase the output?
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Depends on what side you put the pulley on, the motor side with a larger pulley increase, the pump side a smaller pulley would increase
I always revert back to a bicycle to how pulleys functions
Right?
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Well he said compressor not motor?
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If he made the compressor pulley larger then I think your are correct that would slow it down
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OK, compressor for the garage. Was a tad slow so I upped the motor pulley some. Much better!
Believe it or not, the blue chair is for a rabbit enclosure there.
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They came :cool:
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COOL!
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Amazon, $10, about 2 weeks. Pick your color and wording.
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Amazon, $10, about 2 weeks. Pick your color and wording.
You have a link?
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You ask and,
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0856VYZ9C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
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Pulled some more off the front end, man it is nasty under there. Guess I should put my hot pressure washer to use!
Shocks don't, so they came off. In the way anyway. Feel like they dampen a little but have no pressure at all and a free spot when they move.
Don't need the old axle damper/stop either. Lift kinda negates it with extended bump stops.
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Need to take the shine off but what do you think of the covers? Wheels will be the painted style and machine the center for the front hubs.
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How do you plan on stripping the chrome?
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I have a set of painted wheels and nasty chrome. Keeping the painted.
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Lookin good.
I bet you're neighbors loved that air chisel.
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Lookin good.
I bet you're neighbors loved that air chisel.
Wife hates it all. Everytime I work on anything now its "when you going to stop the noise". It's what makes me happy now, neighbors are fine.
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^^^You're a funny man!
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Got it all out, now waiting on some DIY4x parts, namely the B52 front hangers. Says about 1/5 weeks out as they are fabing as ordered now. I have front hangers and everything for the rear, but these solve a few other issues like winch and bumper mounts.
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Going to pull the inner fenders and the right front fender. Gives needed access for several things and I will install the used AC housing that was butchered by whoever did the turbo. From what I can tell there was no need to butcher the AC, but its done and I want AC.
Started with the drivers side, then cleaned it all out. Still looks nasty, but not as bad. I have a new cable for the hood latch to and the change will be easier.
When I pulled the shocks, found a broken mount that was broken again. Not a huge job.
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Cleaned up the rotors and found a broken bleeder. Broke an EZ out, welded nuts to it but no way it was moving. Figured just throw some reman calipers on there since I have no idea how old they are and I have a new MC anyhoo and am bleeding the whole system. Both for $45 at napa with all new hardware, pads are still good.
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Now I am contemplating what new shocks. Think I want to go with singles. This is made for duals but tech has progressed so much in 30+ years I am sure a single will be fine. This is no race or hard core crawler, but It will get used! Thinking about dropping the front sway too, but if I don't I will add a rear as this is going to be a top heavy beast. Front sway does have a disconnect so that helps.
Looking for input on this from you guys, mostly on the shocks.
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This project is sounding/looking like mine! I have a broken bleeder, too, and have broken TWO easy-outs so far on this project.
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I think mine might be a tad older,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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This project is sounding/looking like mine! I have a broken bleeder, too, and have broken TWO easy-outs so far on this project.
I like bilsteins. Always have
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This project is sounding/looking like mine! I have a broken bleeder, too, and have broken TWO easy-outs so far on this project.
I like bilsteins. Always have
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In this context, I’m not sure what you mean Charles?
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I think the Bilstien shocks are very good. I ran the 5150's on a tundra I build once for tens of thousands of miles.
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This project is sounding/looking like mine! I have a broken bleeder, too, and have broken TWO easy-outs so far on this project.
I like bilsteins. Always have
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In this context, I’m not sure what you mean Charles?
Sorry. Hit quote instead of reply in response to JRs question about shock recommendations
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This project is sounding/looking like mine! I have a broken bleeder, too, and have broken TWO easy-outs so far on this project.
I like bilsteins. Always have
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In this context, I’m not sure what you mean Charles?
Sorry. Hit quote instead of reply in response to JRs question about shock recommendations
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Haha that’s what I figured (after I woke up and had some coffee).
It was that, or you were hittin the sauce a little early ;)
Agree on the Bilsteins - if only mine would ship already! Ordered 3/31.
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I am leaning towards them, may even call tech once I get my lengths. 5100s or go with reservoir?
Have them on the Dmax, probably warn out now with 200k + on them!
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I am leaning towards them, may even call tech once I get my lengths. 5100s or go with reservoir?
Have them on the Dmax, probably warn out now with 200k + on them!
Reservoir, if for nothing else for the additional oil capacity/cooling
Your number is 5150
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Oh yeah, I'm "5150" alright,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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That’s funny right there
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^^^ Just noticed that, yea, funny!
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Chugging along but the first couple hot days out here slowed me down.
Pulled the sway bar, pulled both fenders, put the front steering box brace in and one of the rear leaf mounts.
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DIY4x came through and got me these B52 mounts in a week. All is made to order right now so I was surprised.
Now I just have the blow all the rivets out in the above picture. These solve a few problems, strengthens everything up and is a good base for the bumper/winch.
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Today after taking the boys to a 10 mile hike around Folsom lake, I finished the steering brace and the steering shaft.
Frame looked good with no signs of cracking. This ties the steering box to the crossmember and the crossmember to the frame. Had to add 3 washers, no big deal.
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Then I pulled the stock steering shaft which uses a rag joint and strange slide universal up top. Replaced with a Jeep cherokee shaft that has 2 U-joints.
Was harder removing the stock than putting new one on. You grid a little slot for the new uni yoke, then heat up the shaft to shorten up.
Made sure steering box was centered along with wheel. Snugged up upper bolt, heated shaft to get the length right and snugged the lower on the SB shaft (liberal locktite!) Way cleaner and tight.
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Still needs a good cleaning and addressing a few wires and hoses since the fenders are off.
Need to find a 6.5 dipstick as the 6.2 is under the master cylinder?? (see above pic)
Another thing that gets me is really how clean the truck is. Sure there is grime, but it cleaned up very nice with just a hose.
Also, the air cleaner is not that bad. Hoses need a little cleaning up but usable.
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I have it this far and thinking about doing the motor mounts. I have poly inserts for them and access will never be better I think.
After it is on the road I need to address the oil cooler lines. For some reason they twist around the left exhaust with several fitting. Think both would work fine with just a simple 90 running under the motor mount to the front. They then cross over to the pass side of the radiator, the hot side?
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Just some of what I have pulled off including that stupid axle stop.
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That’s some large amounts of progress!
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If I can knock the mounts out tomorrow, then cut all the front rivets out I will be happy.
Finish with a good hot pressure wash and its reassembly time!
May have a slight issue with the exhaust on the pass side, very close to the rear hanger.
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I like the steering shaft upgrade :likebutton:
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I like the steering shaft upgrade :likebutton:
$15 at PnP, grinder, propane torch, 20 min and no more rag joint.
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Finally got the new mounts in. Much beefier than the OEM rubbers.
Pass was pretty easy, just dirty. Has a 1/2 spacer in there for what I don't know, not OEM.
Was actually a nice anodized unit, no corrosion.
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Driver side would not come out. Had to remove the frame mount for the mount itself.
Diff design on this side, got a good cleaning and paint. Tac welded this side vs the zip ties.
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JR, are we going to hear this thing clacking away on the trail?
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JR, are we going to hear this thing clacking away on the trail?
Runs now, but on the road in a couple days. Wife is home sick.
Today I blow those rivets off. Mount the DIY4x B52s, springs and axle. Bleed some brakes and thats it.
Besides the rivets, hardest job will be cleaning the inner fenders.
Next comes the front bumper, but I can drive without that.
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Getting those back was a pain, big hands and little room. Didn't need the spacer with the polys in there.
Lubed the body mount bolts up for a couple days and they came out clean. Blocked the body and torched everything off from the outside never hitting the frame direct. Air hammer and viola!
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I have watched videos about the scarf tip for torches. Need to find and buy one
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Got mine on amazon, 1/3 the price of stores. I like doing local business, but all we have here are people who want $$.
Found a great place in Sparks now and I go to Napa other wise. (city)
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Got it all cleaned up, painted and made a template of the area for future add ons.
These B52s go on real easy. All hardware and is grade 8 with flange bolts. Lock nuts are either a welded strip or tabbed so no wrench needed. My new Dewalt 3/8 XR did great job.
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Bolted them up in the rear position ( 2 options for longer springs) and snugged it all up.
Cleaned up the body bushings and dropped it all down, fit great. Ready for springs tomorrow.
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Looking good
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Really nice JR!
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BTW, I did not have to enlongate or drill out 1 hole, all 8 bolts on each side lined up. Quality. Even came with the big spring bolt but not greaseable, which I will be using.
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I have a sweet spot for old suburban's.
And this Detroit diesel has long interested me.
I know it's no Cummins and certainly not a duramax, but it is old school simple.
Looking at it from a survivalist standpoint. Find one with a 6.2, then replace that with the biggest inch short block (or even a built 6.2) keep the 6.2 injection system, but add a turbo and you have a truck with decent torque and needs no electrics to run. (Like after an EMP).
My favorites, though are the next generation with the independent suspension. That burb with a 2"-3" lift and 33" tires with an updated interior...That would be a cool project.
Right after I ever get my gasser dialed in!
;-((
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I had a 96, but gas. They did come with 6.5 turbo and were electronic, crept the 90-92.
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Fixed the pan today, well I tried too. Sanded off the pan to weld some studs on.
Pulled out the body welder and it was DOA. Opened it up and found 2 wires just hanging loose. Easy fix anyway.
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After the quick repair I welded a few studs on. Pan was pushed in about 1/4-3/8 which may not have been an issue but it would have always bugged me.
You could hear the oil sizzle when I popped the studs on. Worked side to side, then to center with the included slide hammer and it popped out nice.
Ground off the studs, sanded smooth and painted with rustolium. Also cleaned up the trans cooling lines. They rubbed on everything and 1 was almost touching a belt. Not perfect, but not rubbing or on the crossover either.
Guess it is time for springs and the front axle :cool:
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Man, that's meticulous!
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Well done!!
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Well, got as far as getting the springs mounted. Need to fix a shock mount and ready to bolt on.
With the front mounts and the angled rear shackles I am mounting the stock springs in the rear holes. This still pushes the axle about 1-2 inches forward.
Have a slight interference issue with the hokey exhaust, just rubs the grease zert on the lower spring. Clearance it a little but think I will need to tweak a little more.
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Looking better all the time!
Wonderful, bringing this old driver back to life!
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Making good headway here.
Trimmed the body washers since now they don't clear the DIY4x mounts. I have no complaints though.
Made a new shock mount for the pass side. Used the old shackles. Not perfect but this a temp axle.
Also fixed the drivers spring perch. Mount was all wobbled out but since the mig was out, short work. Was concave too, but the torch was handy and a tire iron worked great.
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Used the hot pressure washer, this thing will spoil you. :cool:
I bought a role of 2 1/2 teflon sometime back, made new scuff plates with it.
Always fun fighting ubolts. How come they NEVER line up with the plates! Leaving the sway off for right now, see how it drives. Stock won't work with the 60 and crossover steering anyway.
Took it off the stands under the frame seeing how the springs sit. Sure there will be more give.
Bled the new front calipers (need to flush the rear too) and hooked up the steering.
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Going to see how much it settles as the drag link still has a little to much angle for my taste. I already have have the "lift steering arm) so I may need a block or and "S" link.
Looking at the drive shaft angle too. I might be OK as there is a cardan up on the TCase. Still thinking a shim might be needed bring the yoke up.
Tomorrow is shocks and tires, it will drive!!!
Remember most of this is temp. I need another driver now so I can get the Dmax for the overland trip.
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Decided 1 more day before the wheels/tires.
Power washed the fenders, coated what little corrosion there was with rust inverter/primer. Good coat of paint and undercoating inside the wheel well.
Found with the new springs, drivers side is an inch lower than pass?? Shocks weren't that bad so I used the long shocks in the short side to get me by for now. New Monroe steering stabilizer too.
Centered the steering wheel, toe in was dead on so good there.
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Brand new springs one was 1” off?
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Not sure really. They are 6 inch lift springs I had a military wrap added on. I removed the short leaf on the bottom too.
They looked OK but on the truck one side is off by 1 inch. See after they settle some, only went down an inch with weight on them.
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Teaser,,,,,,,,,
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Which one:
1. Pullin a wheelie...
2. Cali rake
3. no lift on the rear yet
(I vote numba 2, knowin' JR...)
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I’m with the boss.
But.
Progress is progress.
No idea what to suggest for the lateral lean.
Keep at it JR you’ll get it done.
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Front is 3 inches higher than rear for now.
4 inch blocks in back, stock springs. Have a shackle flip and new lift springs for rear.
Front springs are 6 inch, plus the 1 inch rear shackle. Feels a little stiff right now.
I trimmed the wells and have ample clearance, even for 37s. Issue with square body's and the axle move forward some.
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That looks good man. Love me some square body burb
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That looks good man. Love me some Cali Lean
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FIFY
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That looks good man. Love me some Cali Lean
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FIFY
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No no no.
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Stance is better after I filled the rear tires, they were about 20lb low! Rake is about 1-2 inches which I believe will work out with a little driving. Love the front clearance and stance.
Moved it around and found a couple issues, nothing big. Started right up like a champ.
Was hard to move, trans was several quarts low. Will probably just change the filter and add a shift kit.
Found what may be a leak in the front left caliper. Maybe a seal but still checking.
After I let it warm up and stopped it, there was oil dripping from the turbo downpipe. Turbo is clocked funny, oil and drain are 45* which is not ideal, but not sure if I can address that as is.
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Side view
The JR "Kali" burb!
Yee haw!
Well, not yee-haw, that's like a foreign language in the republic. Trouble is I don't know that language, but I's think I should say somethin' like
"Whoa, Braaaa, that's rad"
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Was curios as the wheelbase now. Stock for the suburbans is 129.5, mine is 132, so I gained a whole bunch there!
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Turbo question guys. I had oil come out the exhaust last time I ran it. I mean it ran down the outside of the pipe after running.
Figure it needs a rebuild, but I want to optimize what I have for now. So thinking a "kit" is around $30, cartrige is around $125, add a better turbo wheel another $100, whole turbo with wheel, $300.
I also what to clean up the inlet and found some adapters that will work. Also an inlet that smooths out the intake.
I am not looking for dmax power, just let it run good. Should I cheap on it for now or sink a few $$$ into it? It does not run bad now.
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This need fixing, looking at these parts besides the turbo fix.
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3 bills for a whole turbo doesn't sound bad and saves labor.
Not sure if you'd notice much difference with the elbows.
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Elbows now are 2 inch and do not match the T3 flange even close. The above are 3 and I just found some 2.5 which I like better to keep the flow up. If you saw how bad these are you would cringe. There is also a huge metal support in all that. I may have to add another support anyway, but much cleaner.
$300 turbos are just that. I just found a used GM I am going to try. also bought the inlet to clean the mess up.
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Turbo question guys. I had oil come out the exhaust last time I ran it. I mean it ran down the outside of the pipe after running.
Figure it needs a rebuild, but I want to optimize what I have for now. So thinking a "kit" is around $30, cartrige is around $125, add a better turbo wheel another $100, whole turbo with wheel, $300.
I also what to clean up the inlet and found some adapters that will work. Also an inlet that smooths out the intake.
I am not looking for dmax power, just let it run good. Should I cheap on it for now or sink a few $$$ into it? It does not run bad now.
I'd go for the best flowing, biggest thing that makes the most power. More everything in diesels = more economy. Better off improving economy since that motor will never make any power...Sorry buddy, but it is what it is, and what it is is a pretty good running base/old school diesel engine that will still be running after the NK EMP bombs.
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Yep, it will never be a DMax, but a little more is nice. I have to be careful with boost and the stock 6.2=higher comp. I "may' actually stud the motor without pulling the heads.
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Been doing little things. Started with getting the steering wheel straight using a line on the tires.
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Pulled the turbo intake off. Next come the mount, just a mess.
Removed the lift pump that was hidden under the intake.
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Pulled the stock filter assm off will get a spin on.
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The DIY turbo mount is a joke. Using parts from amazon and ebay. So much out there, just concerned with clearance. Don't have room to move it up.
Also getting a new exhaust, This thing twists and is the way everywhere. Will pretty much go down and straight back and dump IFO the rear wheel.
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That c clamp GM approved ?
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It holds a brace supported by a socket spacer. OKIE for sure.
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I had picked up a Banks turbo manifold for the 6.2/6.2 when I started this project. It will take a diff turbo and up pipe to work. So it going to get sold.
I just want this to run good is all, but need to clean up the setup. I have the GM4 turbo, not a powerhouse but it works. I understand the GM flows better is all but otherwise the same.
I pulled the fender, and you can see the way this setup is done. Now honestly its not a bad setup, just not done well. I have parts coming to clean this up. You can also see the oil line comes in the side, drain is opposite. Turbo now is dumping oil out the exhaust but I got another GM4 for under $100. Thought about the GM8, but rebuilt is $300. Not a terrible price really but I only need 8psi or I need to stud the motor.
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Interesting, JR
BTW, I ran dual shocks on my old square body, rough country gassers, I think and liked the ride it gave me. Gonna add a second set of shocks or just go straight to the 3" King's? ;-)
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Think I will stay with singles, but with Bilstien reservoirs. Going to let it settle first and get the bumper on.
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Got an LED light bar for the grill. I have new LED headlights coming too, housings with seperate LED bulbs, not the all in one that seem to be hit and miss.
First I trimmed the grill for the bar.
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Capped the cut off ends. Found the grill had vertical pieces that required just a hole and a spacer for the bar to fit.
So longer bolts and spacers on the lathe.
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Test fit before smoothing it out, then a nice coat of semi-gloss black. The curve matched the grill nice!
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Works pretty well and even came with a wiring fused/relayed wire harness!
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Really nice looking there JR
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Agreed, nice upgrade
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Thx, parts are dribbling in for the turbo remount.
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Cyclops looking thing
Not sure if that is going to grow on me or not
I'll give it some time
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Just got a box of headlights for the beast. Glass 4x6 headlights that take a drop in bulb which I have LEDs for. Think between these and the bar, forward illumination should be great!
Now for more time, short until the bobcat is at the ranch and the scraper mod.
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Got little things coming along. Was going to rebuild the stock turbo as it was dumping oil out the exhaust.
Ended up getting a GM8 turbo to rebuild. The 8 flows better inside and does not have the flattened exhaust turn down. Forums say if you can, swap and its a direct bolt on. You can see the housing is a little diff as well as the non flattened turn down. Intake bell is also a smooth run into the impeller. Got an aftermarket billet wheel for it to. Will keep boost to under 10psi, maybe closer to 8, stock was just 4.
Yep, it will never be a duramax, but it still ran good. Who knows, studs and more PSI?
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Fred, Imagine if you could push that up to 30psi!
I wonder if building one of those with lower compression would permit some much higher boost numbers?
That motor was a champion of gas mileage. Boosting it higher would improve even more
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Not unless I stud the heads. 6.2 did not have a turbo stock so higher comp than the 6.5 and anything above 10psi tends to lift the heads up.
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Not unless I stud the heads. 6.2 did not have a turbo stock so higher comp than the 6.5 and anything above 10psi tends to lift the heads up.
Forgot, its a 6.2
Goes without saying, score yourself a 6.5 and build it over the years and someday toss that in as a duramax killer! (Ya, I know, it's a stretch...)
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Oh, I have eyed a 6.5 or two. Just not in the cards for a swap right now.
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Oh, I have eyed a 6.5 or two. Just not in the cards for a swap right now.
I have always been interested in one. Would make a killer cruiser
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Honest, it runs very well with the hacked turbo.
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Well, back to toying this thing after gettng side tracked working on the property, buying a Tahoe and life.
Decided to stick with the GM 4L80 vs the dodge tranny I have for the 6BT. So that is whats in the burb now, but will build to 4L85 specs (good to 1000lb tq). Yes it uses a stand alone TCM, but they are simple and a dime a dozen. Plus parts are easier to get for it. Adapters are not the cheapest, going for around $500 used to just under $1000 new. But simplicity will rule here in the long run.
Also dumped the H2 wheels and dually setup. Got a killer deal on SRW hubs from non other than Randys, and Tate set me up with bearings too. Selling the dually hubs will almost offset the purchace!
I picked up a GM NP205 and 203 last week up near Susanville Ca for $350 for a doubler setup. After reasearch and ideas from Shawn, I may go with a ORD magnum underdrive or similar unit. Even enough a bit pricy it washes out buy the time I sell the dodge tranny and 205 t case, np203 (was $50) I can always run the 205 in the interm which will still work fine.
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That's interesting JR. So the doubler...Allow you to go super low, or add another OD, or both???
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That ORD doubler gives you the same od as stock, but you get a 5.1 low, which is crazy low. I am not a real rack crawler per say, but the options are great. Still get a .75 OD with the 4L80/85, so 4.10 gearing it has with 35 tires is perfect.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/offroad-design-magnum-underdrive.html
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:likebutton: You’ll be happier in the end.
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Need to take to storage as the boys 4Runner needs the room right now. No winch on trailer or Sub, so making one that will work as a base for the bumper build.
I need more projects!
Used CAD and made the frame plates from 3/8. I had a winch plate, so pretty easy. Using the trusty 12k HF winch I got a few years back.
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It hangs 7 inches below the upper frame rail. I bent the engage handle flate thinking there would be an issue, no.
Mount is solid and made so adding a support along the top will be simple to strengthen the area up as it will also serve for a front bumper build.
Very little aproach lost, wiring first thing tomorrow. Notice the control box is hanging off the back of the winch. Was really simple, just hang off the rear still using factory hanger, flaten and redrill the tabs and your done.
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Worked great, solid. Got it to the local yard and tarped as it is summer!
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Picked up a later 4L80e 4x4 core for a rebuild today. Finding the 91-97 are the better and has better cooling and internals that my current 80 does not. Upgrading is easy to an 4L85. Got it for a killer price with a TC, but know it will need upgrading to a low stall. Was told it was from a 2004 that lost 2nd.
Dropped at the yard until runner is going.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/4l80e/
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Think I got the last major part for this, not that I'm in a hurry right now.
Got a Ron Bonny front engine mount/crossover. Solid weld in unit that allows the pan to be dropped without pulling the engine if need be. Popped up on FB in Reno, got for about 1/2 retail.
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...And JR where is this thing presently? I'm going after all these old cool builds that people have gone soft about posting up. Let's tighten up the shot group here!
;-)
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I have been picking up parts, engine crossmember with mount, 4L80 for a rebuild and adapter to for it all in hand.
Looking at big brakes for the Dana 60, undecided.
He is sitting on my trailer right now at the storage yard. With the exc and sons Sonoma room was not there for now.