REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
WEAPONS => Vests & Protection => Topic started by: stlaser on August 22, 2016, 08:22:35 AM
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Saw this & thought I'd post for those of you who might like a deal & aren't afraid of a grinder or a spray gun & bed liner.....
http://knuckledraggin.com/2013/07/affordable-body-armor-plates/
For those of you north of the border, if he'll do paperwork those flat rates go there although you would be limited to one set per box FYI with the international weight limit on flat rate boxes.
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hmm , my only concern is using heat to cut them. It weakens the properties in the area that carried the heat.
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https://www.maingun.biz/category_s/2047.htm updated link
TRN, as someone who oversaw that type of machinery for close to 20 years I don't think it gets that hot......
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My observation of this plate stuff is either you are in a cqb situation where you're going to have to attenuate a 123 gr FMJ from an AK 10 feet away (Which is bad) or that same AK round at 100-300 meters (My case)
So, someone like Bobbt will have to read in on the close in stuff, but I can talk about getting hit from some distance (As in a helicopter passing overhead and getting sprayed with a bunch of people inside screaming like school girls)
(Well, maybe not screaming like school girls) (But certainly just as scared as school girls)
Anyway, had a couple of the guys take hits. None were injured. Chest plates were damaged, but not destroyed. One pilot who took a hit in the seat side armor showed more damage. A single hit destroyed the plate which begs the question, What actually hit that plate?"
So I'm saying that unless you are closing with the enemy in something like an urban setting, a steel plate, compromised or not should do the trick since range pulls the energy out of the bullet.
Really, it seems the 55 gr bullets are out of steam around a single football field. up to a 62 gr and a bit further. We've talked about this before but the little .22's are not all that powerful.
Fast forward to someone with a properly sighted in Mosin, and that dude with it's steel core bullet will waste your day at 500 meters PDQ!
Any armor is good, but sometimes cover, distance, or speed is the better choice
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Shawn, good to know. I've always been told to water jet AR500 and the like for that reason.
Don, Good time to know the difference between cover and concealment! ROFL. Once we started shortening the barrel on these ARs , the lethality at range dropped like a rock. In and out like an ice pick instead of tumbling and fragmenting.
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Shawn, good to know. I've always been told to water jet AR500 and the like for that reason.
Don, Good time to know the difference between cover and concealment! ROFL. Once we started shortening the barrel on these ARs , the lethality at range dropped like a rock. In and out like an ice pick instead of tumbling and fragmenting.
TRN, for reference what the guys are talking about with heat affected zone is this. The process to anneal or normalize the atoms in steel is done by heating the steel red hot over a period of time then letting it air cool.
Now with that stated does a plasma heat the steel red hot? Yes, but where & for how long is the question? 1/4" plate cuts very fast on a plasma, memory serves me correctly at around 150" per min on our hi def Cnc table. So next question is the area that gets affected? I'd say maybe 1/16" inboard of the cut edge & it's red hot for 5 seconds maybe? So really not much surface area & it would be questionable to what if any degree it normalized those atoms.
Then logic goes on to say if I get hit on the edge of the armor by a 30 cal round am I going to be protected? My guess is that area of your body will receive trauma regardless.
For the record, I've spent many hours on the wrong end of an oxy acetylene torch annealing by hand plate around the edge of a laser cut hole so I could run a tap thru said hole. With that stated I can tell you that if I did not heat that plate red hot all the way thru the tap was still pissed later on when I went to run it thru said hole. Dumb real world experience speaking there......
With all that said I would prefer laser or waterjet & the heat affected zone is minimized even more. But money talks as they say.....
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Put an order it just now!
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I've been researching anti spalling & fragmenting options this morning. Everything from thin plastic cutting boards epoxied & duck taped on the outside of these plates to Kevlar bedliner material.....
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Hm.
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Shawn I like real world experience! So since those plates are flat, could I curve them in a press without adversely impacting their protection?
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Shawn I like real world experience! So since those plates are flat, could I curve them in a press without adversely impacting their protection?
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Didn't the second (& newest link) show curved plates?
Edit: to answer my own question it looks as if they have both curved & flat. To answer your question honestly I've never tried to form that particular grade. I have done plenty of ar500 though & it can be bent. It does not like a sharp 90 degree bend though. Did some 3/4" on our 250ton once for a guy making blades for a cutter they was mounted on rail car to trim trees back along the railways. The 3/4" broke at a sharp 90..... Cut my operators hands it came at him with such force (no stitches). So with that said I would get a heavy wall larger diameter pipe & weld a pice of structural to one side to reinforce it. Then lay plates on your press with no press plates in it & push pipe down into armor. Should work just fine, thinking like 4-6" diameter pipe maybe so it makes a nice curve in plate.....
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If you go to their (current) site, they figured out how to bend them, and offer them bent , and other options as well, like Line-x.
https://www.maingun.biz/category_s/2047.htm
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I assume the line x is to reduce spalling and fragmentation?
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Yeah. there's another company that started that a while back....I remember seeing the videos on youtube. Icr how many coats they put on, but it does work. I think it also helps a little with penetration because it absorbs some of the initial impact.
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Yeah. there's another company that started that a while back....I remember seeing the videos on youtube. Icr how many coats they put on, but it does work. I think it also helps a little with penetration because it absorbs some of the initial impact.
I was on a site today & the guys were commenting on how they used a certain type of plastic (same stuff in cheapo cutting boards) and they epoxied them on & then duck taped around them. This helped lessen penetration & also the spalling / fragmentation
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Makes sense. I saw where they were welding lips on the top and bottoms as well. I'd be worried about my welds !
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I'm not sure welding on it is a good idea for several reasons but the main being that these particular plates are from a specialized material / chemical structure. As such when you deal with specialty plates most often you need specialty wire & gas for welding. I think you may cause more harm than good potentially.
I like cutting boards and duck tape. At least I don't think I can screw it up too bad!
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What might be ideal is to epoxy the cutting boards material on & then cost with bed liner. I'm thinking as long as the plastic is scuffed up good it should adhere.
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Put an order it just now!
Have you received these yet? Kind of curious about them. For the price I may buy some and shoot them into failure, as well as get a anti spall figured out.
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I have not- they have a new website and are selling more options etc. A and with the daughters wedding I've been holding off for awhile as I decide what options to pay the additional money on.