Author Topic: OverLanding Camper Build (Read 75097 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #600 on:** January 13, 2020, 07:59:33 PM »

And the shore power attachment

Flyin6 · « **Reply #601 on:** January 13, 2020, 08:00:57 PM »

Starting to run wires, stemming off of the power center will be a right and left trunk that will exit through the two holes shown here

Flyin6 · « **Reply #602 on:** January 13, 2020, 08:03:46 PM »

And exit to a wiring "Artery" system that consists of adjacent pieces of 3/4" material. The wires will be stapled in the resulting channel, then when complete, the void will be sprayed with an expanding foam, allowed to cure, then sawn/sanded flush before covering with the interior panel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #603 on:** January 13, 2020, 08:04:31 PM »

And here comes the very first wire:

JR · « **Reply #604 on:** January 13, 2020, 08:59:34 PM »

Busy man on the job! Looking good, like thinking out of the box for the pump.

Where do the cannons fold out. Need some self defense.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #605 on:** January 13, 2020, 09:17:13 PM »

Two questions.

Why are you going to spray foam the wire compartment? Wouldn’t that impede further expansions for for what reason? Damage wire that needs replaced?
Need to add power to a side light for the kitchen oops I foamed my wire tray.

Second.
Where are the links to these things?
Water pump:
Electric inverter:
Water heater powered by D cell batteries and propane? :

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Bob Smith · « **Reply #606 on:** January 13, 2020, 09:55:18 PM »

Don, can you add some more sound proofing or mounting rubber for the water pump area? Those things can be quite noisy.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #607 on:** January 14, 2020, 06:38:14 AM »

Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #608 on:** January 14, 2020, 08:32:54 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on January 14, 2020, 06:38:14 AM

Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..

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I think with his wood interior it would look just fine to skin over the gap with his 3/4 strips he used. Just simply hide the wires inside.

I am going to actually run metal conduit on my walls when wall covering is done. I did see one where a guy polished copper pipe and ran that as conduit. It looked cool for sure

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #609 on:** January 14, 2020, 11:35:29 AM »

Quote from: Bob/OlallaWa on January 13, 2020, 09:55:18 PM

Don, can you add some more sound proofing or mounting rubber for the water pump area? Those things can be quite noisy.

That's a good idea Bob

I just ordered a couple more rolls of the stuff. I'll pad the top side of the panel which will dampen vibrations

Note: Should not be running while I am getting my beauty sleep, only when I'm cookin' or washin'...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #610 on:** January 14, 2020, 11:40:43 AM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on January 13, 2020, 09:17:13 PM

Two questions.

Why are you going to spray foam the wire compartment? Wouldn’t that impede further expansions for for what reason? Damage wire that needs replaced?
Need to add power to a side light for the kitchen oops I foamed my wire tray.

Second.
Where are the links to these things?
Water pump:
Electric inverter:
Water heater powered by D cell batteries and propane? :

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

here, got ya some links:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #611 on:** January 14, 2020, 11:43:15 AM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on January 14, 2020, 08:32:54 AM

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on January 14, 2020, 06:38:14 AM
Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I think with his wood interior it would look just fine to skin over the gap with his 3/4 strips he used. Just simply hide the wires inside.

I am going to actually run metal conduit on my walls when wall covering is done. I did see one where a guy polished copper pipe and ran that as conduit. It looked cool for sure

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought about running a piece of 1/2" PEX in there for future growth...donno. May be over thinkin' it.

Let me think about it a little

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #612 on:** January 14, 2020, 11:55:56 AM »

I don’t think you need conduit but a simple piece of 1/4 inch ply over the two pieces of 3/4x3/4 like in this photo.

Just simply cover the wires, reasoning I say anything is you mentioned spray foaming the wires. Did you mean just the entry hole into the cabin of the trailer?

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JR · « **Reply #613 on:** January 14, 2020, 01:02:51 PM »

and more coffee

Flyin6 · « **Reply #614 on:** January 14, 2020, 07:25:36 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on January 14, 2020, 11:55:56 AM

I don’t think you need conduit but a simple piece of 1/4 inch ply over the two pieces of 3/4x3/4 like in this photo.

Just simply cover the wires, reasoning I say anything is you mentioned spray foaming the wires. Did you mean just the entry hole into the cabin of the trailer?

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I was going to foam up the whole cavity since I'l have 3/4" foam board everywhere else.

The 3/4" wood pieces are essentially nailers for the 1/8"-1/4" panel that will go on last. Plus those channels could become homes for unwanted critters

Farmer Jon · « **Reply #615 on:** January 14, 2020, 08:43:47 PM »

Looking good. I run a modified wave inverter in the freightliner for my fridge. It dont seem to mind it. I will be installing another one in my camper hooked to six 6 volt golf cart batteries to run that fridge. That will limit run time on the generator.

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JR · « **Reply #616 on:** January 14, 2020, 09:54:13 PM »

FYI for fridge loads. I have small fridge upstairs with internal freezer, about 3cf.

Monitored all summer with a wattmeter and it draws 370mw all the time, opened little. At that rate a good battery would run it for days. Well figure 500watts if you open it time to time x 24hrs and you get 12 amp hours. Figure your battery will give up about 70% before inverter shutdown. So a 100 amp battery should last about 5 days.

Any inverter should run it fine, its electronics that don't like a modified wave (most common and cheaper)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #617 on:** January 15, 2020, 09:11:26 PM »

Good info gents, danke'

Today's update hits a solid 2 on the 1-10 fun meter.

More surface prep and painting.

I sort of switch it up frequently to keep things interesting and tend to put off the monotonous stuff until it just needs to get done.

Here I have filled all the holes with the body filler and getting to the numerous screw holes one at a time

Flyin6 · « **Reply #618 on:** January 15, 2020, 09:13:23 PM »

Having achieved a point where the gaps were mostly filled and the contours were sanded in, I slapped on a coat of primer to see where it stood with respect to getting a top coat.

I will top coat with a good paint before covering with the 60 mil EPDM stuff

Flyin6 · « **Reply #619 on:** January 15, 2020, 09:15:46 PM »

I filled some of the seams in the top panel and removed protruding screws, and pushed others a bit deeper into the panel to make room for filler, so that is tracking nicely. The back is maybe 70% right now and the right side a bit further along.

Not long for the Epoxy coat now

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #620 on:** January 15, 2020, 10:27:29 PM »

Looking good

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #621 on:** January 16, 2020, 08:57:40 PM »

I added some tail lamp base plates. Theory here is making the thing removable from the outside which would be easier than fishing around inside and behind all manner of stuff. Lens attaches to the base, and the base screws to the body

Flyin6 · « **Reply #622 on:** January 16, 2020, 08:59:38 PM »

I spent some time installing nut inserts for 5/16" X 18 bolts where the awning will bolt to on the side of the roof over the door and kitchen area

Flyin6 · « **Reply #623 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:01:25 PM »

Made up this quickie tool to utilize a bolt and dc impact to seat the nuts. I apply glue to the things first which dries and makes the final installation secure

Flyin6 · « **Reply #624 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:02:26 PM »

You can see them spaced about every 18" down the side of the top

Flyin6 · « **Reply #625 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:03:29 PM »

Then more were installed on the right rear for the future folding shower apparatus

Flyin6 · « **Reply #626 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:06:17 PM »

Finally the water filler and shower head unit also got nut-serts for the #10 X 24 machine screws. Once the glue hardens, I'll grind the exposed flanges even with the sides

Flyin6 · « **Reply #627 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:08:40 PM »

Next up the stiffeners and reinforcement plates for the upcoming spare tire mount were created from 3/4" ply. That will create a sandwich construction that is 2 1/4" thick

Flyin6 · « **Reply #628 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:10:07 PM »

The holes will connect to an outside steel plate that will be a base for the spare tire/wheel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #629 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:11:50 PM »

The threaded nut inserts installed and glued to the inside of the inside panel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #630 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:12:58 PM »

Inside plate going in. It was glued and screwed to the back wall

Flyin6 · « **Reply #631 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:14:37 PM »

I wasn't bashful with the wood glue!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #632 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:15:51 PM »

Well, that's another piece of this puzzle in the bag!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #633 on:** January 16, 2020, 09:16:41 PM »

Cut out the roof for the fantastic fan

Flyin6 · « **Reply #634 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:24:34 PM »

Now on my third bottle of this stuff and on the second gallon of the regular wood glue

Flyin6 · « **Reply #635 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:25:30 PM »

The roof is finally to a point where it got its first coat of primer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #636 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:26:30 PM »

And so did all these parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #637 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:28:30 PM »

Hard to see because of the over exposure, but all the inside structure that may remotely be exposed to the elements got a coat of primer as well

Flyin6 · « **Reply #638 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:29:28 PM »

Next I went after some of the seams that needed filling. This polyurethane product is waterproof and paintable

Flyin6 · « **Reply #639 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:31:00 PM »

I went crazy with the stuff running out well before completely sealing all the seams. I didn't even get to the underside, so off to Menards for a couple more tubes...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #640 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:32:44 PM »

And since it calls for drilling some holes that will penetrate to the outside, I started running some of the plumbing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #641 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:34:21 PM »

To keep the 1/2" PEX lines from moving around too much I created these mounting blocks to capture the lines and rigidly affix them to the body

Flyin6 · « **Reply #642 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:35:41 PM »

And the first line is the supply line from the tank to the pump

You can see one of the pillow blocks holding the line fast to the back wall

Flyin6 · « **Reply #643 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:37:14 PM »

Started running the hot water lines as well

First one runs over to the kitchen closet where it will terminate and turn into a flex line routed to a spigot

Flyin6 · « **Reply #644 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:39:58 PM »

At this point the primer coats had dried, so I applied a coat of the gray porch and deck paint. This will be the surface that I apply the Dicore glue to, which will cement the rubber roof material in place

Flyin6 · « **Reply #645 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:41:21 PM »

Got a coat on some other parts as well

And that is it for the roof, minus the rubber membrane and glue

Flyin6 · « **Reply #646 on:** January 18, 2020, 09:44:13 PM »

The paint color is a light gray. I change colors with each layer so I can see to get good coverage.

I threw the balance in the roller pan onto the side for good measure, but frankly, it will only get sanded.

Now that most of the body is painted, the next step is to fill and correct imperfect areas, then sand it all to get it smooth, and then finally, finally, I can spray on the Urethane bed liner

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #647 on:** January 18, 2020, 10:04:53 PM »

Are you really not gonna let me know what the brand or model of the water heater is?

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dave945 · « **Reply #648 on:** January 18, 2020, 10:16:13 PM »

Looking at the pictures, I think it’s a Gasland AS150. We Dave’s gotta stick together.

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Bob Smith · « **Reply #649 on:** January 18, 2020, 10:43:56 PM »

Nice job on the water lines. My trailer, take off the coroplast bottom and uncover a rats nest of wires and plumbing.