This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - longball
751
« on: December 03, 2016, 10:13:26 PM »
North Alabama/Tennessee Valley
I get alerts on my phone so a PM here will work, or four 1 seven, two five 5, six 2 one 9. I'm hit or miss on phone calls because of work so a text is usually best.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
752
« on: December 03, 2016, 08:32:33 PM »
Just talked to dad and his Mule is governed at 47mph. He also said it is a small 3 cylinder that is used in small automobiles in Japan. Sounds like a similar setup to your Gator. What about the Can-Am Defender? 72hp V twin, locking rear differential, 10" of suspension travel, 11" ground clearance. http://can-am.brp.com/off-road/defender.htmlSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
753
« on: December 03, 2016, 08:17:34 PM »
My experience is limited to 3 Polaris Rangers and one Kawasaki Mule. The Mule is the one my dad bought when he traded in this Polaris. I'm not sure what the top speed of the Mule is but as far as a working rig, the Kawasaki is by far the better vehicle. It is quieter, rides smoother, has a bigger bed (with a steel floor) and gets much better fuel mileage. If I were buying one to work with, that would be my choice. On the other hand, I believe it has a motor similar to the John Deere you had. Best I remember it wouldn't accept a turbo like you wanted. I'll get some more info from him and let you know.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
754
« on: December 03, 2016, 07:25:28 PM »
No problem. I've heard a few stories of how the front diffs grenade, so I guess it's a good idea to keep it changed often.
I also overfill the trans on mine, especially after adding the turbo. I think yours is the same design...a one piece trans/rear diff. The fUll hole is the one the right side, and the fIll is in the back. I filled mine to the rear plug...almost doubling the capacity, and so far so good.
Mine has the separate rear diff and transmission. The trans held about 43oz although the dealer I bought the amsoil from said 33oz. I ordered a set of front and rear a arm guards from S&S Fabrication in Whittensville Kentucky. I am really pleased with the rear and am waiting on a replacement set for the front. The first set I received didn't clear the caliper so the owner is making me another set that should be here soon. While following a friend to a hunting spot in the mountains I thought I felt the belt slip. Since the original had almost 4K miles on it I went ahead and replaced it with a Gates unit. Right now I'm investigating a suspected temp and barometric pressure sensor failure. I am experiencing the signs for sure (strong fuel smell from exhaust, sporadic idle, poor fuel economy). I've read that a replacement from otb powersports is the cure. It is less expensive that the factory replacement so I'll give it a shot.  A few maintenance items like this were to be expected with a machine of this age. I'm still pleased as punch with this thing.   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
755
« on: October 26, 2016, 05:58:03 PM »
I use 8oz of Diesel Kleen every fill up religiously
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you tried the Xtreme Diesel fuel additive? I started using it about three years ago because it was quite a bit cheaper and it seems to do well, based on the lack of water in my separator. Each bottle (around $9) treat 500 gallons if I remember correctly. http://www.xtremediesel.com/XDP-Diesel-Power-Plus-Fuel-Additive-XDDPP116.aspxSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
756
« on: October 26, 2016, 01:12:06 PM »
Yeah a winch would make a difference. Mine held right at 9oz before it started running out of the fill hole so I guess that's where I'll leave it. Thanks for the info.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
757
« on: October 25, 2016, 09:55:57 PM »
That is one dirty rad!
Filthy! It was almost all fescue seed so it blew out pretty easily. She should run much cooler now. You can get to it, it just sucks doing it. I've done mine twice now, and cussed both times!
There are some engineers at Polaris who's ears should've been burning about 2 hours ago. They may not know it but they got a good stern talking to. I fiddled with it for quite a while before I took everything off. If I have to do it again I'll probably go the same route. The bumper is held on by 5 bolts and the front clip has 6 hex head bolts that have to come out. While not ideal, it allowed me to see what I was doing and I was able to use a standard funnel. How much fluid does your front differential hold? The manual I found (online) says 9.3oz but everything I could read on the google machine says 5oz.
758
« on: October 25, 2016, 08:10:06 PM »
Dear Polaris, why do you hate us?  Started a complete fluid change today and ended up taking the front bumper, grill, and headlights off so I could get to the fill plug. The radiator was much dirtier than I though so it ended up being a good thing I took it off.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
759
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:05:24 PM »
Weekend before last we went to Missouri to see some of my family and pick up the Polaris. Before we left I told my wife we would need new trailer tires soon. I didn't realize how soon.  I wasn't going to risk the next 300 miles without another spare so some nice guys at Goodyear in West Memphis got us back on the road with two new tires.  My Mom is a breast cancer survivor so her and Dad came down last weekend for the Liz Hurley Ribbon Run in Huntsville. While they were here we wanted to see how the Polaris would handle the hunting lease in the mountains and we were not disappointed. I avoided some parts of the trail since my a-arm guards won't be here until tomorrow. I don't want to tear something up unnecessarily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
760
« on: October 06, 2016, 07:41:36 PM »
That's a big change in direction! I will be curious to watch what you do to the ranger. We have one that is almost identical.
I won't go crazy with it, just slowly add things as needs and ideas arise. What did you give for it if you don't mind me asking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't mind, we gave $6,500 for it. That's about the going rate for similar vehicles in our area. The good thing about this one is that I know it's history and I know it has always been serviced on time and well taken care of. Nice change of direction. The Honda will still serve you well for many to come in any case.
The Honda definitely won't go anywhere. Of any motorized machine I own it'll still probably be the most reliable one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
761
« on: October 02, 2016, 05:39:36 PM »
As of yesterday I am going a different route with my fourtrax. Dad was at the dealership where he traded in his 2009 Polaris Ranger XP 700 for a 2016 Kawasaki Mule last spring and saw something familiar on the lot. The salesman he bought his Kawasaki from sold it to a family member who only put 15 hours on it before deciding it wasn't what he needed. Knowing the maintenance history and how it was taken care of I couldn't pass it up for the price. Especially since it already has the roof, windshield, and upgraded wheels and tires.  For now I'll fix what is necessary on the fourtrax and use it when HH6 and I are both hunting but going opposite directions. I spent some time this morning looking at Don's gator build and I really like the headache rack and m4 mount he made. I think I'll start with upgraded lighting, underbody protection, gun mounts, medical kit, and extinguisher, then go from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
762
« on: September 26, 2016, 12:28:01 PM »
That's what RANDY gets for working naked!
Randy used to have clothes but being dragged around by a bunch of firefighters made quick work of his flannel. DOT warning: that reminds me of a young kid we ran a while back who had overdosed on roxy and loritabs. The call came in as a possible overdose and while in route we were advised CPR in progress. By the time we got there they had gotten a pulse back but the patient was not breathing. Pulse-respiration=dead. So I hook up O2 and start giving respirations with a bag valve mask. I rode in to the hospital to breath for the guy so the medic could do her thing. After a 1/2 dose of narcan the patient sits straight up, asked where he was, then looks down and says "d%&n, you guy cut my favorite shirt". Without missing a beat the medic said "no problem, we've also been breathing for you for the last 15 minutes. Do you have a problem with that too?" Some peoples kids..... Who put the Hillary supporter in the hole?
I did, you know a Hillary supporter wouldn't go into a job site on their own. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
763
« on: September 21, 2016, 01:06:05 PM »
10-4 Farmer Jon. I think I have found most of what I'll need, just a few lose ends to tie up. I'd like to work on it this week but poor ol Rescue Randy need my attention for a little while longer. He's got himself in a heck of a bind.   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
764
« on: September 20, 2016, 08:01:30 PM »
I spent some time looking at disk brake conversions last weekend. Everything I found required wheels larger than the factory wheel that are on mine which isn't s big deal. The drum brakes will work well enough for what I need. It'll be a few more days before I make any progress. Trench rescue class is taking up all of my time this week.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
765
« on: September 17, 2016, 02:16:14 PM »
I don't have a clue how many miles are on these but it's a lot, and like you, lots of mud and water. When I squeeze the brake lever nothing happens. I can tell there is a pressure change in the line but that's it, no parts move on this end. I wasn't wanting to spend a fortune on it but I'll look into the disk brake conversion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
766
« on: September 17, 2016, 11:20:11 AM »
My neighbor across the street has that exact same quad!
Just go at it slowly and go over every part
Just fix what needs fixing
DO NOT do a comprehensive oil change!!!!!
I'm curious about your suggestion not to do a comprehensive oil change. Do you care to elaborate or did a joke just fly over my head? Those things are tanks! I have one at work that I built a pushbar setup for, to push cars around (and even big trucks and motorhomes). That sob seems indestructible....but the brakes do suck.
This thing is a tank. I rolled it off of a near vertical, 14' embankment into the Eleven Point river once. I landed in about 2' of water and it landed on top of me. Luckily it rolled off and I just laid there, not being able to move for several minutes, looking up at the trees thinking there's no way AirEvac can get in here to get me. When I got feeling back in my legs two friends bent the handlebars back up off of the tank and I drove it out of the river and the 20 miles back home. If it weren't for my helmet the rear rack would've busted my melon wide open. A wreck like that will make you back out of the throttle a little. Back to the quad: I don't know anything about drum brakes but to me this look bad.   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
767
« on: September 16, 2016, 09:32:22 PM »
Sorry, used oil analysis.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
768
« on: September 16, 2016, 09:31:52 PM »
It has been a great machine. After the abuse it's seen there is no rhyme or reason as to how or why it's still running. Just from wrecks I had I think I'm on my 3rd set of handlebars, 2nd or 3rd front rack, 2nd rear rack, and 2nd front bumper. No matter how hard I hit stuff or how many times it rolled the only thing that ever got hurt was the racks and handlebars. If you could buy a new truck as tough as that fourwheeler it might actually be worth $60k.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
769
« on: September 16, 2016, 09:25:41 PM »
The big filter and the oil has been around for some 30,000 miles!
Did I read somewhere you had a UOA done recently? Are yo happy with that setup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
770
« on: September 16, 2016, 08:29:14 PM »
Thank you for the replies gentleman. I'm not going to get crazy with this thing. Heck, I don't have the mechanical knowledge necessary to get crazy with it. What I have in mind right now is new bearings, fluids, filters, starter, probably some new brake parts, new fender supports (about half of them are missing), new splash guards (most are broken), paint on the wheels, and lots of cleaning and scrubbing. I read that there is a disk brake conversion for these bikes. That probably won't happen this go round but maybe the next time I feel like giving it some love.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
771
« on: September 16, 2016, 04:06:52 PM »
I've finally started some long overdue parts replacement on my first and only four wheeler and need to trouble you good folks for some advice. A little background: When I was 12yo dad and I were working around 450 head of cattle. During the spring when dad was working day and night spreading fertilizer it was my responsibility to feed and make sure all of our cattle were healthy and accounted for. I would ride the school bus home, get our farm truck, load it up with feed and anything else I might need, then head off to work. We leased several farms miles apart and my only way of getting there was by 90' Chevrolet. One day, as I was passing by my school our librarian saw me driving that beat up Silverado. My goodness at the storm that ensued. County sheriff's deputies, highway patrol, school principle, and friends' parents trying to scoop me up before the rest caught me. Long story short, I needed another mode of transportation and this Honda fit the bill perfectly. It was used and abused by myself and my nephews for a decade and a half before being parked in a shed where it stayed until last December. After removing the racks and fenders this is what I had.       After pressure washing.  I knew for sure the front wheel bearing where shot so that's where I started. I've been reading through pages and pages of The Square D build and I like the idea of weatherproofing parts as I handle them. Might as well right if it's already apart right?    What kind of cleaner, primer, coating, etc... should I start acquiring? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
772
« on: September 16, 2016, 08:24:31 AM »
Do you think the 4.56 gears (coupled with Isiah 6:8 of course) may be the reason for your good mileage? So far as I can tell, getting these pigs moving takes more fuel than maintaining momentum. Years ago, when I lifted and put 35s on my 89 K1500 I thought I would get better mileage because the motor would run at lower rpm while cruising around. Boy was I wrong.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
773
« on: September 15, 2016, 08:00:01 PM »
What the B&G (blur and glare) actually conceals is 19.3!
That's impressive! My LB7 with 265 BFG and/or 285 Coopers only averaged 17.8 over the last year.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
774
« on: September 02, 2016, 06:38:28 PM »
What do you guys in the south do for the humidity and your safes? I save all the little descent packages that come in pills-shoe boxes and toss them in the bottom corner
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I keep one of the dehumidifier rods in mine. Every once in a while I reach down to feel that it is still working. I also keep all my sentimental hunting rifles and shotguns inside gun socks. What have y'all used for bolting the safes to the floor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
775
« on: August 20, 2016, 08:09:39 PM »
I had to take a 30 minute drive to attend a bake sale for a firefighter who is battling cancer. As soon as we got back a storm blew in so instead of hurrying to get the fenders cut I'm going to wait until I have more time. This is not something I want to rush. After some final adjustment there is only 1/8" of difference between the drivers and passenger's side (drawing a straight line through the center of the wheels). Even though they seem to be even I need to trim about 2" off of the passenger side but less than 1" off of the drivers side. I'm not sure what is causing this difference but I want to double check my work before I take off material. I wish I wasn't so ocd about some things.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
776
« on: August 20, 2016, 02:28:02 PM »
Thank you everyone for taking the time to reply and answer my questions. I'll give the boxcutter a shot and see what happens. Before I started, the driver's side measured 38 1/2 and the passenger's side measured 38 3/8. Now, the driver's side measures 39 5/8 and the passenger's is 39 3/8. I had my wife sit in the driver's seat and it brought the driver's side down within 1/8 of the passenger's side. I'm thinking with my added weight it should be even with me sitting in it. The tires are of course still rubbing but I don't want to go any higher than it is now. I like the bigger tires and wheels but I'm not going to sacrifice CV angles and upper ball joints to run them. Given my choices, I'll trim the lower valance. Since it will need an alignment anyway I'm going to order a set of tie rod sleeves from rough country and install them before the alignment. Sleeves should suit my needs and are much cheaper than the HD tie rods from Rare Parts or Cognito.
The measurements I took are from the ground to the top inside of the fender well. Is there a more consistent, reliable location to get my measurements?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
777
« on: August 20, 2016, 12:44:21 PM »
I think you might end up needing to trim that bottom of the bumper just a tad. The suspension will still move up and rub
Raising boys into RealMen!!
You are right about that. I lifted the truck 1" with a jack under the front crossmember and it still wants to rub. I don't want to raise it more than an inch so I'll have to do some trimming. Which tool will make a clean cut on that plastic? I plan to measure each side so I get them trimmed evenly. I'm not fond of eyeballing much of anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
778
« on: August 19, 2016, 08:58:55 PM »
779
« on: August 15, 2016, 02:50:53 PM »
If you don't go the 308 route I would consider looking into a BCM lower (especially their cosmetic blem units if you can find one). Then you can add whichever upper you'd like when you decide exactly what you want. That's usually less expensive than buying something then changing around a lot of stuff you don't like about it later.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
780
« on: August 15, 2016, 12:08:26 PM »
Hold on
Wait a minute...
Are you supposed to clean a Glock?
Never knew that! :o
I think that's what happens after you fall out of a canoe with you Glock. If that's right then I cleaned mine about 2K rounds ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
781
« on: August 13, 2016, 02:24:01 PM »
So I went to go price out my next set of Toyo M55's yesterday.
They tell me that Nitto and Toyo are on in the same.
I'm between 55-60k on the set I have now, and don't want a different compound.
"The NITTO HD GRAPPLER is the exact same tire that you requested ( difference being the name ) Speaking with the REP. For Nitto/Toyo I confirmed this."
They're not done yet, about 8/32 front, and 12/32 rears after the last rotation.
But winter is coming, and that likely isn't enough for grip purposes.
They've stood up better than anything I've ran so far.
Nitto Terra Graplers being second, at about 25-30 k. They were chunked out badly, and letting rock pass inside at that point.
I have had both the Nittos and the Toyos, both getting 50-60k easy. But I am not hard on em as in braking and cornering but don't consider I go real easy on em too.
I do like the Toyos better, but have coopers stt's now. They are wearing good, but mileage is down.
People seem to have really good luck with the Nitto all terrains or really bad luck. I've never heard anything in between. I did have a set of dura grapplers on a 01' 1500 that were holding up very well before I sold the truck. Being a 10 ply on a half ton I wouldn't have expected anything less though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
782
« on: August 13, 2016, 02:21:33 PM »
I seem to have resolved my earlier wheel size issue. Turns out I have something laying around that another guy can use, and he has a set of 17" H2 wheels with 285/75R16 Cooper AT3 tires with decent life left in them. I'll run those during winter/hunting season and put my factory wheels with BFG Rugged Trails back on during the summer months. Running them in that manner I shouldn't need tires for a while now but when I do I'll have the 16 or 17" wheel option.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
783
« on: August 13, 2016, 12:48:20 AM »
Those appear to have similar specs as the ST MAXX but brings me to my other problem which is 16" wheels. They're only offered in 17, 18, and 20". As much as I would like to buy the H2 wheels I found today, investing towards our retirement and future kids' college funds are more important obligations. Being a responsible adult sucks sometimes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
784
« on: August 13, 2016, 12:23:12 AM »
I don't have many miles on my set, but i've liked by Cooper ATPs a lot so far... which is like the AT3 but is the Discount Tire exclusive
The ST MAXX i've heard is a dang good tire... it's more of an AT/MT hybrid... and they do make them in 37s. Maybe something to consider
Here's the ST MAXX
I may try a set of these for my next set since I recently found out the tires I have 70,000 miles on is no longer made. I also found last week that I installed those tires on March 20, 2011 at 114k miles. On the way home the truck hit 184k miles. It does help that I drive like an old man and it's mostly on pavement these days but 70k+ miles on a 3/4 ton diesel tickles me pink. My old tires are LT 265/75R16 BFG Rugged Trails. Although I need a little more aggressive tire now, I would've bought these again if they were still made.   Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
785
« on: July 31, 2016, 01:28:42 PM »
I'd go 2x8 so you get a nice running board look. Or flush but then add a tube. You can always cut off more but adding it back after you cut is a bit more challenging.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I think that is where I'm leaning. Since I removed the running boards that were on it I like the idea of having protection from rock chips that 2x8 would offer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
786
« on: July 31, 2016, 10:13:36 AM »
To keep the cost minimal, I'd skip on the tubing part and just do a section of rectangular steel tubing, say 2" X 3" X .125" wall would work.
use a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a cut off tool to cut the steel away as close to the seam as you can get.
Next you'll have to inspect what you have there when the rocker has been removed
Likely you'll have a rusted mess, but not to worry. Using a wire cup tool, clean the rust down to steel or work the holes out to better metal.
Use goggles and a mask for all this
If it is mostly good, spray it with a couple coats of a weld through zinc primer
Next cut and shape the rectangle tubing into the form you desire. Use clamps and floor jacks and your overweight uncle (Joke there...no offence intended...) to hold that thing in place then apply sparkage in a skip-weld fashion until most of your sleeve or skin has burned away.
At this point you'll either be:
1. Finished welding
or
2. In the emergency room.
In either case do what you have to do to recover or finish the project
Best of luck, and if you tackle this, being a beginner, we all would appreciate pics of the progress and a good "Lessons-learned" write-up. If it's good enough, I'll use it again for the next "Rocker-Man"
If it's bad, we all will use it to ridicule you on a daily basis
Note: Not every one of my comments is true...Use deductive reasoning to ascertain the truth in this
Good Luck, and if not
call 911 ;)
You really know how to give a guy the warm fuzzies about a project. ;-) I'm still exploring options and trying to learn more about this. I cannot overstate my ignorance of this subject. If I were to start this project now I would do the cutting, undercoatings, and finishing, but outsource the welding. Although I would like to learn to weld, I don't know that this project is the place I should start. I'm wondering now if the rocker should be cut below the level of the door, so the boxed steel sticks out past the door, or if it should be tucked in behind the door. I suppose it may depend on how bad the rust is when I get in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
788
« on: July 24, 2016, 10:50:37 PM »
I can guarantee that an option like this will be economical enough to pay for the tools to do it and be between he two prices you mentioned.
There are a lot of different styles, all including a few hundred bucks of metal and time.
I do like that as well.
What kind of tools would I need? I wasn't kidding when I said I don't have a clue where to start on a project like this. Heck, I don't even know where the rocker panel stops and the rest of the body begins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
789
« on: July 17, 2016, 12:16:25 AM »
Forgive me for possibly stating the obvious but given the height of the shelf (head level) it would be nice to see some protection against whatever is on that shelf from going through the back glass if you were to have a front end collision. Unfortunately, I work a lot of wrecks and have seen airborne cargo cause serious injuries.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
790
« on: July 11, 2016, 11:49:46 AM »
I've heard of this once before. When I was in high school one of the janitors was said to have ran an old, blue Astro van on gasoline vapor, by a system he built and received a patent on. It supposedly got 50-60 mpg. I cannot confirm whether he did or not but his son, who went to the same high school, mentioned once that someone had offered to buy his dad's invention but he was holding out for more money. Being 17 years old or so, I never gave it much thought, until the next year when his son didn't come back to school because his dad was said to have retired and moved. Rumor was he finally sold his design and made a fortune. The whole thing may be hokey and the family moving may have been just a coincidence but it does make me wonder.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
791
« on: July 10, 2016, 10:05:25 AM »
I've been researching this a little more and I like the looks of something like this.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
792
« on: July 07, 2016, 01:12:07 PM »
My response time to his place would be less than ideal. Luckily regular combustibles are easy. Just put the wet stuff on the red stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
793
« on: July 07, 2016, 01:01:42 PM »
I'd never considered something like that. A quick Google search revealed it to be fairly popular with the jeep fellas. I'll keep searching and see if I can find a picture of that on a GM truck. I suppose it'd also be pretty simple to incorporate some steps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
794
« on: July 06, 2016, 04:03:29 PM »
I've been lurking and reading here for quite some time (since the Square D build). I recently joined because there is a lot of info here, and the site seems to be filled with good people.
I am a firefighter and EMT transplanted from a middle of nowhere Missouri farm to the Deep South. I hunt, fish, garden, and shoot just about everything from clays to pistols. I don't have nearly the knowledge or talent most here do but it's fun to learn. Thanks for letting me be a part of your group.
-James
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
795
« on: July 06, 2016, 02:50:56 PM »
It definitely is a cancer. The cost of the repair only bothers me because of its relation to the remaining value of the truck and because I've been looking to upgrade to a 4 door for some time now. If I could find a low mileage LBZ in good condition that wasn't $35k it would be someone else's problem. Thank you for your input sir.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
796
« on: July 06, 2016, 01:03:43 PM »
It seems as though you men know a lot about body work so I would like to trouble you for some advice. My 2004 LB7 and I migrated to down south from Missouri, where's there's a lot of road salt. Naturally, my rocker panels are starting to rust through on both sides. I took it to a body shop (I have zero knowledge of body work) last week and got some bad news. $1,100-1,200 to patch the panels, spray with rust converter, and hope for the best or $4,500-5,000 to replace both complete rocker panels and fix it right. It's been a great truck but with 183,000 miles I can't convince myself to spend the $5k, especially since we are talking about having kids and it is an extended cab. So, I think what I'll have to do is let them patch the spots that need it and put rust converter everywhere they can reach. They said in the past they've had decent success with drilling some small holes and spraying converter inside the panel with a fog tip they made. What do y'all think? Is there another option I'm not considering that I should look into? Like I said, I know nothing about body work.    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
797
« on: July 03, 2016, 05:45:25 PM »
I wouldn't normally spend that much money but I got a used yeti 75 for about half price so I couldn't turn it down. If I were buying another cooler today it would either be a Cabela's brand or a K2 from their scratch and dent page. The people I know who have bought scratch and dent K2s say the flaws are minimal and they still carry their lifetime warranty. http://www.k2-coolers.com/index.php/clearance/scratch-and-dent.htmlBy the way: I really enjoy reading this forum. There are some talented people who post here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
Show Posts
