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Messages - mjmbrown
51
« on: September 09, 2016, 06:44:20 PM »
All great advice, thank you. Any thoughts on the paint that is currently down there? it appears to be just an enamel of some kind, chipping a peeling in a few spots. The previous owner said he did it on virgin concrete so there is no oil or anything soaked into it. but im wondering if a scuff and degrease would suffice or if I would need to sand it all the way down.
52
« on: September 06, 2016, 11:13:47 PM »
I love the sealed wet concrete look! if your like me I've always got a large floor squeegee on hand for errant water from tires, swamp cooler, spilled beers. because it can get a bit sketchy.
The dealership I work for has a brand new Subaru store and the entire mechanics stop is done with sealer as opposed to heavy grit epoxy...apparently its easier to clean. the main standing and walking are sealed clear also but have "shark bite" grit in them. gives it a pretty cool look and only has the grip where its needed. I will get a picture next time im over there.
I was just on the hunt for the perfect DIY floor epoxy. I've been watching garage journal for months trying to narrow down what I can do and want to spend on my 1600 sq ft space.... I cant stomach what my local garage solutions guy wanted to charge me for prep and install......4k.....are you joking??? :-\
Any opinions on something that's decently durable but not made of endangered baby seal tears???
Floor was painted by previous owner and has some scratching. obviously NOT a super high quality. Should I scuff this and wipe it with thinner or acetone to prep before I try and do something else? or does it need to be sanded all the way off?? I like the light gray color it is now and will probably look for something about the same color.
Picture is the best I have on me right now, during deconstruction of worlds shortest room (door almost rubbed ceiling).
53
« on: August 25, 2016, 02:07:08 PM »
Nothing wrong with them, wearing very evenly and so far I haven't had any issues. other than the noise, When they first went on they were fine then after about 500 miles they are just terrible. not typical tire "airplane" noise like bad wheel bearings...which are newer.
54
« on: August 25, 2016, 01:47:33 PM »
In my old age I've gravitated away from big knobby noisy tires and come to appreciate a quality ride. Anyone remember the Buckshot Mudder?? Best 38"-40" tires I've ever owned. So my Goodyear Duratracs are on the way out, I don't drive the truck much so it will probably last another 6 months to 1 year before I get serious about buying a new set but I went with an oddball size to get a the right look. 295/65r18 is what im running now and would like to stay there or maybe a bit taller. http://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/ridge-grappler-light-truck-tire/ Im happy to see another competitive A/T tire from Nitto which was a great set of MTs on my last truck. As I write this there is only 1 size in and 18" rim available with the rest coming soon. so Ill keep in touch with my tire guy and see when they finally produce the size im looking for. Probably going with a 295/70r18 next time. But the that side wall!! love it! :o I also am turned on to the new Toyo R/T https://www.toyotires.com/tire/pattern/open-country-rt-on-off-road-rugged-terrain-tiresMy only gripe with Toyo has been that I seem to blow through set in 25-30k miles... but that was 2 sets of MTs. Ive got a few friends that have gone with the new BFG AT and it appears they like them Any opinions?
55
« on: August 24, 2016, 02:33:53 PM »
Yeah my friend is true bonehead with too much$$.. we all have one of those. I tried to explain the simple science behind all off it and even proved to him that it works great if you use it right. But he says for that much money he shouldn't have to babysit it. to which I compared to vehicle manufacturers and their MPG claims under perfect conditions...but still hes too thick headed for all that jazz. ::)
We had a 5 day ATV trip in Heppner in 90 degrees and I had lots of ice left at the end of the week. but I always have the "drink" cooler for the kids, its inevitable that I will shut the lid on the drink cooler 10-15 times a day. so Ive come to grips that I will always have 2 coolers. :P
56
« on: August 23, 2016, 09:13:28 PM »
Bought a Pelican from a friend, who buys EVERYTHING from Costco... And I mean everything. He swore up and down it was defective because his ice would be gone by end of the weekend. but I had done enough research to know that he wasn't using the way it designed, if you want to keep ice as long as possible. We also do week long trips in the dunes and our cooler is only for the items we canT fit in our toy haulers fridge. But seriously the nicest well made cooler on the market IMO. Best $100 I've spent in a while
Now cooler science doesn't need to be over-engineered...
SIMPLE RULES TO FOLLOW:
-PRE CHILL THE COOLER- I USE 1 BLOCK 24HRS AHEAD (don't open it)
-PRE CHILL OR FREEZE ANYTHING GOING INTO THE COOLER
-LOAD THE COOLER AS YOU PLAN TO USE ITEMS IN IT (ITEMS ON TOP COME OUT FIRST)
-AIR OR EMPTY SPACE IS YOUR ENEMY- SO PLUMB FULL IS THE KEY (as long as you are able to keep it that way)
-I USE FROZEN GALLON MILK JUG FOR THE CENTER (if space provides) AND PACK AROUND THAT
-AFTER YOUVE STUFFED AS MUCH ICE IN THERE AS POSSIBLE LET IT SIT FOR 12 HOURS AND ADD ANOTHER BAG.
- GET A WORLD CHAMPION POWER LIFTER TO HELP YOU LOAD THE THING UP
THIS IS A RECIPE FOR 3-5 DAYS WORTH OF ICE....
THEN GO BUY A $30 COOLER FOR THE KIDS DRINKS/BEERS/WATERS/GATORADES--- THEY ARE THE REASON YOUR COOLER DOESNT STAY COLD FOR 5 DAYS DUMMY. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
KEEP THE DAMN LID SHUT.
57
« on: August 11, 2016, 06:20:10 PM »
I learned to tile from my late father @ 16 when we tiled 3k sq feet of my parent newly built home. and I did the kitchen and entry way in my last home after the linoleum failed shortly after moving in. and worked odd jobs for a friend who tiles for a living.
I can tell you that laying them at an angle will hide the guaranteed not-square walls in every home.
After you tear everything up and are sure you have a clean FLAT surface to work on, depending on your subfloor and transitions you might have to use self leveling epoxy or "concrete" to get it completely flat. Remove all baseboards and just assume that you will have to replace them.
Then cement board (using thinset + a lot of screws) or Schluter underlayment is the way to go. Many people skip the underlayment and find out why they should have done it right in less than a year. Ive torn up a lot of "professional jobs"
Start with a "T" or cross shape and this will give you the best chance of having a good look and hide the cuts and possibly cooked walls. (see my crude paint drawings) Orange lines represent a chalk line.
. If I can find a picture of my last job I will post it up.
Once you lay the "T," I like to let that set up over night so I have perfectly square solid "frame" to start off of. then you can filled them in one section at a time. saving all your cuts until last, you can rent a saw and do them in a day instead of renting for a week. When you are laying out thin set, make small batches at a time and work in 4x4 sections. I always "butter" the tile when I lay them to ensure proper adhesion.
Clean your grout lines as you go as well the face of your tile, believe me its easier to get messy doing this than chipping concrete from the tile or in between tiles risking a chip in the tile. use good spacers, like seen below.
There is a learning curve, don't get frustrated. and don't feel bad if you have to rip up a few and start over. Any more questions just ask!
58
« on: July 27, 2016, 03:42:11 PM »
If you don't mind, what did the asphalt run ya? What's your driveway dimensions? I've been kicking that around since my shop drive is only 1 car wide and 100ft long. makes backing the trailer in difficult.
59
« on: June 21, 2016, 10:35:27 PM »
Some decent bike specific instructions and a free tshirt I didn't know I got out of the deal  You can see the huge difference in the tiny front stock skid plate. To the full undercarriage coverage front to back    The center plate is a monster. I'm pretty impressed with the construction. Everything lined up and went on easily. The thickness in the plates was also a deciding factor on the ricochet brand.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
60
« on: June 21, 2016, 10:30:59 PM »
I've been moving the box of skid plates around the shop for 6 months now. Finally had an evening to get some time to myself. Before  After  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
61
« on: June 10, 2016, 06:36:57 PM »
Some are better than others, that's for sure. After 2 failed Rhino Liners, first in my 85 Toyota project and then my chevy. I found a guy that does line-x for our dealership. the real trick getting the body edge straight and cut just right.
62
« on: June 10, 2016, 05:29:11 PM »
63
« on: June 10, 2016, 05:22:29 PM »
do the bumpers and from the body line down all the way around the truck, maybe the flares too if you like that look. my last 05 Chev 6.0 had that done (line-x) cost me about $800 to do the rockers and the flares with some running boards. ill see if I can dig up a picture.
64
« on: May 10, 2016, 10:50:42 PM »
also how much more oil do you think it adds to the system?
65
« on: May 10, 2016, 10:48:20 PM »
Ive read that so many times, and I remember when you said you finally changed the oil on the LML... I still find it baffling that it can go that long on the "same" oil.
66
« on: May 10, 2016, 07:40:27 PM »
that would be ideal... lets see what hes got to say. :o
68
« on: April 16, 2016, 02:23:48 PM »
I think you are on the right path, when I graduated HS parents told me if I was living @ home I paid rent($100/month) if I wasn't attending classes at the community college. I turned down a 4 year education to stay in town for my high school girlfriend who I've been married to for 15 years. I was told if I wanted transportation I had to buy it my self and I had to pay for insurance/gas/maintenance. From 16 on that was the deal. if my GPA was above a 3.0 my dad would pay for insurance, I assume because of the insurance break.
69
« on: February 27, 2016, 03:13:55 PM »
http://alphaoutpost.com/Referred by a friend (combat vet), I was intrigued. I will post up what come in my first box which should arrive within a week or so.
70
« on: February 07, 2016, 03:59:42 PM »
Sounds just like my LMM--- alternator bearing going out---not super expensive- and its not that loud. but man is it annoying.
71
« on: February 04, 2016, 09:28:29 PM »
HANDS DOWN ONE OF MY FAVORITES RIGHT NOW! :)
WE HAVE BEEN DOING WEEKEND TRIPS TO THE RANGE WITH THE BOYS (AGES 7 & 10) TEACHING THEM ALL THE THINGS I WANT THEM TO LEARN BEFORE HUNTER SAFETY CLASS. MY 10 YEAR OLD USING THE 22 AND THE 7 YR OLD USING THE 17. I FORGOT HOW MUCH FUN THOSE GUNS ARE. MY 17 HAS ALWAYS BEEN MORE ACCURATE AND RELIABLE.
72
« on: December 23, 2015, 03:33:06 PM »
that's what im working on, a pallet of r21 does almost 900 sq feet and is $825. but I 've got a call into a friend who hopefully can connect me with a trusted guy who can do the work. but im sure with the holidays getting him to come out and estimate it wont happen until next week.
73
« on: December 23, 2015, 02:21:38 PM »
the yellow wall in the corner is the left over from the world smallest room the previous owner constructed for his daughters play room. it was barely 6 feet tall and more or less just taking up valued floor space. I debated on leaving the ceiling for storage but it was just not built well enough for me to consciously leave it. so I pulled every screw out of it and increased my stock pile of 2x4s and 2x6s. Im not sure I will drywall after insulation but I left those walls up for now. once I get the green light to start insulating I will post up some of that process here so yall can watch me itch.
74
« on: December 23, 2015, 01:09:53 PM »
a little elf told me last night that Mrs. Claus might have made a purchase from ricochet skid plates... and shes not happy about him letting that secret out... needless to say im excited for that!!!
75
« on: December 23, 2015, 01:07:38 PM »
I agree, its hard to ignore the stupidity that most people freely spew on todays social media sites and forums. my intention is not to give them any free advertising and praise, just to give our users some examples of some shop ideas I felt were helpful. I think its a great idea to start our own sticky and link to our users shop builds, so they can see how real men behave.
76
« on: December 22, 2015, 03:39:25 PM »
I stumbled upon this extensive list of different kinds of shops people built all over the US (even Australia), its really extensive and has a lot of good ideas. plenty of dos and dont's as well as the usual DOTs we have all been accustomed to. Just thought this would be a good place for anyone looking to build or help in setting up their shop. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/652356-pbb-shop-build-links.html
77
« on: December 11, 2015, 08:01:09 PM »
Haha.... tool was the word.. there a lot of right ways to be a reputable dealer. its also difficult to sell a lot of vehicles and not have any problems. You have to know that its coming and be ready, ready to make it right and stand behind your product and your name 100%, that will set you apart from the sleazy dealers and keep your customers coming back.
78
« on: December 10, 2015, 07:41:15 PM »
I think I know what dealer you speak of..... being @ a WA state based dealership myself I happen to deal with them every so often :-X. Excited to see the transformation nonetheless!
79
« on: December 10, 2015, 01:32:36 AM »
I thought the same, either way my intention was to stop the seep that GM has acknowledged as a problem but will have no part in making right.... And it's even more strange "working" for them and listening to all the jibber jabber about safety being #1 but once you're out of the new car warranty it's like pulling teeth to get goodwill from them.. Anyways I'm happy because I won't have a small pink puddle in my driveway every other week and all over the suspension
80
« on: December 09, 2015, 11:52:12 PM »
Just finished the trans cooler lines. DRP product from alligator performance. Gave her a bath since I dumped almost 10 gallons of coolant and some trans fluid here and there. Found a bulging battery covered in blue fur on the pass side last night.... Installing now as we speak.[/img]
81
« on: December 05, 2015, 08:50:49 PM »
Anyone ever hear about Federal tires?
They have a 37/12.50 R18 selling for just under $300
That is outstanding
I'd like to know if I'd be out-standing in the cold on a trail somewhere due to tire failure if I used them???
JUNK!! ABSOLUTE JUNK!!! Believe me when I say I have handled way to many cases here at the dealership with crap tires and these are one of my #1 culprits. Other dealerships and wholesale flippers around the area buy base model Rental trucks and jeeps @ auctions I attend. Spend 5k on lift, wheels, tires, exhaust, aftermarket leather, gawdy chrome crap and dvds, navigation...blah blah blah.... Then they offer them for sale to the public for BLOOD MONEY....(5-10K over retail)..only because they "look cool".... Then people finance a mortgage payment on said vehicle and come to my dealership to trade said vehicle complaining that they just bought it and it rides like crap and cant hear themselves talk.. AND THEY HAVE NO IDEA WHY THEY ARE 15-20K UPSIDE DOWN!!!! I Just replaced a set of "NEW" Federal 37's on a jeep that we took in trade. Could not get to balance. on every damn special machine in the area.... obviously out of round (if you can call a square tire that), but of course myself not being the original purchaser of said tires. Federal will not warranty the issue. Id rather buy Nittos through discount tire any day of the week. I can usually get a 35" mounted and balanced for $1200 out the door (no tax for re-sellers) in the case of 37's its about $1450. This isn't the first time nor the last, I just know when I take a vehicle like that in trade that I will inevitably replace the tires or send straight to auction. Just an insight into the dealership life and friendly reminder to not waste your money. ;D
82
« on: December 02, 2015, 07:13:32 PM »
Matt
Tri-Cities Washington
(Richland, Pasco, Kennewick)
PM me if you need help- I work for a large family of Dealerships in the area if in need of mechanical assistance.
83
« on: November 25, 2015, 11:53:30 AM »
Probably a few things in it future- full skid plates, couple lighting upgrades, winch & new tires/beadlocks soon. Ive already changed all the fluids....multiple times... these v-twins can be touchy if you miss the maintenance. the computers on them are ridiculous, they know exactly what s going on inside that engine...never thought I would see they day when I could plug my scanner into my quad.
84
« on: November 24, 2015, 08:51:06 PM »
heres a pic I got the other night, pardon the mess. still trying to arrange and move. Just trying to make it mine, and undo some weird stuff the previous owner did.
85
« on: November 24, 2015, 08:47:09 PM »
I stole this from a friend last year for a song and a dance. Its a 2011 Can-Am Renegade 800r. I've been riding every other weekend with the boys (8 and 10) since they were old enough to ride 50cc dirt bikes and we have gradually moved them through different sized bikes/quads. Ive had my fair share of bikes/quads/SXS but I had the chance to ride one of these years ago and always told myself that if the opportunity presented itself I would own one. Hands down this is the best quad I have ever ridden, comfortable, nimble, fast as hell and torque for days. It will pull wheelies at 30-40 mph....ridiculous. its 4WD but acts like its a sport quad, its heavy (>700lbs) but doesn't feel like a blocky, awkward utility quad. Once I get some pics ill let you see the rest of it.
86
« on: November 24, 2015, 08:30:48 PM »
Ive seen this in a couple local small shops, the "FastPipe" looks like a simple product to use. although it looks like the unions would cause you to go broke @ $10 each. this is on my to do list after insulating shop in the spring.
87
« on: November 22, 2015, 06:26:34 PM »
+1 love it, I have one for my 40. after wearing out a foxx IWB hybrid in less than a month this one has far surpassed it.
Although I recently switched to fulltime kydex IWB for a s&w shield.
88
« on: November 11, 2015, 06:02:43 PM »
I'm 5 mins from there now. I grew up in Benton city (Red Mountain), small town feel. Long story short I decided to insulate first, it will make the most sense long term. Wife has determined that I might never come into the house and might stay out there forever! Kids love the new space and it been fun so far. pics to come In a 40x40 uninsulated, i'm guessing pole/metal building... until you insulate, a wood stove and a fan on the ceiling to push the heat down sounds like the best bet.
Prob no nat gas where you are if i'm guessing right, and propane to heat that will cost ya a fortune.
In Benton City, my uncle's got a shop a little longer than yours, about 40x60 I would guess, but he's doing the wood stove and ceiling fan system and it works well. Late November pheasant hunts will often turn into hanging out in the shop, resting the dogs, playing pool and swapping stories and we're always in t shirts after an our or so.
89
« on: November 06, 2015, 06:52:27 PM »
Thanks for all the replies gentlemen! I have a friend who owns a body shop and he recommended some wall mounted units he uses in this shops over here. Ill link those up once I find something comparable. Ive given some serious consideration to the wood burning stoves, I regularly have a cord or two of wood on hand from camping trips. I think it makes the most sense to spend the coin and insulate, but wife doesn't see the need. >:( Once I organize and settle a bit more into the shop I should have a better idea on my real needs, but it might be next spring before I get around to it.
Yes its true about the wildfires up here this year, I have many firefighter/volunteer friends who went to help out. The whole east side of the state had a California like haze to it for a few weeks. enough for the state to issue a public health warning about air quality.
90
« on: November 03, 2015, 10:20:54 PM »
Hey all,
Finally moved into my new place and earned my self in my opinion a perfect sized shop (40x40). Growing up my parents built a shop on land well before we ever had a house on it so my dad took his time and did it right, fully insulated, lights and outlets everywhere. It was huge but was set up right and gave me a place to get away and grow up wrenching, welding and learning a ton of skills.
Fast forward 25 years and I'm now in a position that I wanted for so long, big lot, big shop and a modest rambler far enough away from the neighbors I can make noise. So back to the meat of the post:
The shop is not insulated and has tall ceilings, I'm trying to get the most bang for my back as far as heating it during the winter. My area (eastern Washington) wont see sub zero temps often but it is possible. I would just like to be able to take the chill out of the air without my eyes burning or going deaf from a propane "jet engine" my 7 year old calls my current set up.
Any ideas, suggestions? what is everyone else doing right now for heating their space?
Pictures to follow
91
« on: June 02, 2015, 10:07:17 PM »
[/quote]
Thanks guys
JR, I did think about screws, but I'm trying to make it look original, in case I ever sale this thing. As long as the liquid nails hold, I shouldn't ever have an issue.
As far as the roof. it looks worse than it is. I cleaned where the a/c goes, and it was barely starting to weather crack. Regardless, I have 8 gallons of high dollar EPDM coating coming, and once I replace the vents, it will get coated.
[/quote]
Make sure you write up the roof re-coat, I plan on doing mine this year and would love to see how a "REAL MAN" does it. Long story short I had a buddy pay an RV dealer here $500 to re coat his roof and it already peeling up. Dealer has pushed back on repairing it because they said there must be some sort of coating on the original roof that wont allow it to stick... pure BS.. he bought that thing new in 2008 and hasn't even been on the roof... from this same dealer....
92
« on: May 29, 2015, 07:47:50 PM »
I have the goodyears on my 08 , leveled with 295's and they were fine for the first 500 miles then they started getting noisy. honestly thought I had 2 bad wheel bearings. just because I could I put the old wheels and tire back on to verify and sure enough, just noisy tires. although the tread shows no wear after about 15k and 2 rotations. but they hold gravel--- forever!!!! >:(
93
« on: May 05, 2015, 09:20:37 PM »
Don where did you order the led lights from. And whats the new verdict now that they have been in for a bit.
Well, it hasn't been very long but they are a solid A+ thus far. Lots of light and a hint of blue (6000K) just like the HID's. I like bluish hues because of my NVG night flying days. Less eye strain IMHO.
They have a smallish control box/power supply or whatever that thing is. About 1/4 the bulk and clutter as those junky chinaman HID's
Comment here, anybody notice that the low quality Chinaman junk is actually of an even lower quality these days? Chinaman brake rotors require turning to true them out of the box. Chinaman rubber like my HF air hoses and A-zone ball joints boots fail in about a year as opposed to firestone and Goodyear stuff still good after 10 years. Chinaman electronics are all temporary.
-------------------REALLY LONG POST-------------
( I edited down the above post for the reply) Maybe I missed the response in the post, but I never saw where you got the LED's from....
94
« on: April 21, 2015, 05:59:06 PM »
Love this thread. Just like Don's attention to detail and pictures! Excited and cant wait for more.
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