REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: longball on November 09, 2017, 01:16:18 PM
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Like most of my machines, my 89 Chevrolet is in serious need of some TLC. It spent the first 22 years of its life in Missouri being covered in road salt before moving down south so its a rust bucket. The truck itself is pretty bare bones. 350, 4x4, 6" lift and 35s is about the extent of the fancy stuff. SM465 manual and no power locks, windows or other do dads.
We have an 8 week old that I keep on my off days from the fire dept and I am a tight wad so whatever improvements are made to this thing will take a while.
So, with these tires the truck is 75" wide. The 16' tandem trailer my back yard is 73.5" wide. Once again, I'm about an inch and a half short. :facepalm:
Waiting on the rollback this morning:
(https://i.imgur.com/paeCBNQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YhV1Xif.jpg)
First order of business, Brakes. Last December while bleeding the brake lines I had a blow out above the fuel tank. Other than in the parking lot of a trustworthy mechanic, sitting in the driveway is about the best place I can think of to blow a brake line. I ordered a complete new set of stainless lines from Inline Tube and they arrived about 3 days later. That is not a job I can tackle myself at the moment so I am farming it out to my neighbor, along with a steering gearbox replacement. The truck has always had a slight whine coming from the power steering pump but I've burned through 3 power steering pumps in the last 5k miles (7 years). Hopefully the steering box will fix that problem.
(https://i.imgur.com/PCpKiHC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OU1aM7A.jpg)
As soon as I get it back I have a Sunforce solar charger waiting to keep the Exxide AGM topped off.
(https://i.imgur.com/44rCP0V.jpg)
Initial List:
Stainless Brake Lines Done
Power Steering Gearbox On standby for now
Windshield Washer Motor Done
Replace/Upgrade Shocks Bilstein 5100 Done
Upgrade Steering stabilizer
A/C (this is Alabama afterall)
I also need to figure out what to do about a rear bumper/hitch option. The previous owner buggered up the mounting holes for the one that is on it so it gets out of whack every so often and has to be adjusted. I dont plan on towing much with this truck but I want the option should the need arise.
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nice
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Nice looking truck. Not near the rustbucket I initially imagined.
For the bumper, if you're even half good at applying sparks to metal I'd build one.
Make it mate to the messed up holes, or weld it solid if needed.
Other than time and patience (time is against you) it's an easy job so to speak.
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I tried to weld one time, about 20 years ago. It did not go well. I may give it another shot when it comes time for a bumper though. I have a 0% chance of learning if I don’t try. I know that for sure.
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Me likey Cant wait
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Me likey Cant wait
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And it is red....
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Exactly!, Bob
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Nice project
I use that same solar battery charger
I'm into year 7 on my two Silverado batteries,so far with no problem
I'm these modern times where new trucks approach the cost of a starter home, rebuilding makes so much sense
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Nice project
I use that same solar battery charger
I'm into year 7 on my two Silverado batteries,so far with no problem
I'm these modern times where new trucks approach the cost of a starter home, rebuilding makes so much sense
Reading about your batteries a couple weeks ago is what reminded me that I needed one. Do you leave yours hooked up all the time? Some reviews said it should be unplugged when starting the truck.
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Bumpers and gearing?
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JR, his trans, MUNCIE SM465 6.56 3.58 1.70 1.00. even if he had 3.42's he'd be OK w/ those tires. I'm betting he's got 3.73's or 4.11 though. a look at the RPO codes would tell the tale. Longball, if you have an intact Code sticker in the glovebox, see if you can post up a pic.
That's a great looking truck. Reminds me of Blaine's.
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Gearing is one thing this truck has plenty of. It would probably be a lot better off with a NV4500 but I don’t know if that’s in the cards anytime soon. Although I’d probably be better off trying to find one now rather than later. They’re getting more rare every day. If memory serves me right this truck has 3.73’s. It’s done so hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow and I’ll check for a code sticker. I believe it’s still in there.
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Sm465, heavy granny 4spd
I had a couple, stout trans......
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My 77 had the 465 and 4.11s. Was great with big tires but an OD would have been great. The 465 is bullet proof!!
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I always wanted a gear vendors overdrive unit but could never bring myself to drop the coin on it.....
465/205 was a great combo
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I always wanted a gear vendors overdrive unit but could never bring myself to drop the coin on it.....
465/205 was a great combo
Yes it is!!
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First and foremost. Who doesn’t have a soft spot in their heart for a regular cab short bed pickup. Add a step side to it and I am drooling. Red is an absolute bonus and the lift and tire size lol I it
Idea for your bumper hitch. Maybe cut some plate steel out to the right hole size and use it as a guide or washer type on the inner C portion of the frame. Should locate holes well enough, keep your hitch removable which is s big bonus vs trying to grind around leaf springs ask how I know ;) and it wouldn’t cost much $
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I still think a reg cab short bed is the best looking truck there is. Sadly, like the girlfriends I had in college, the best looking ones are the least functional.
I’ve been thinking more about the bumper and my desire to keep cost low for the time being. For the time being I may go to the LKQ (pick yourself) salvage yard and see if I can find a factory bumper and 2” receiver hitch. That would give me the ability to tow something if needed while keeping cost low until all the other problems are sorted out. I like the bumper that’s on it now, but I don’t think it will allow the use of a 2” receiver hitch.
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I still think a reg cab short bed is the best looking truck there is. Sadly, like the girlfriends I had in college, the best looking ones are the least functional.
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And there you have it, the truck quote of the decade........
As far as the bumper, if it were mine I would have a fabricator or welding/hitch place fab up a 2” receiver to come out under the bottom of that bumper. With lift & tires it should be doable not being too low. It will probably be less than new bumper and factory hitch.
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Nice project
I use that same solar battery charger
I'm into year 7 on my two Silverado batteries,so far with no problem
I'm these modern times where new trucks approach the cost of a starter home, rebuilding makes so much sense
Reading about your batteries a couple weeks ago is what reminded me that I needed one. Do you leave yours hooked up all the time? Some reviews said it should be unplugged when starting the truck.
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I just plug it in and forget about it. I don't know for sure if the solar cell is doing its job. Its the kind of thing that only time will prove out.
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Got the truck back last night. Brakes worked great on the way home. Still have the sticker Tate. (https://i.imgur.com/VAUqPVw.jpg)
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you've got 3.42 gears, NON limited slip there sir. You could change out to 3.73, not sacrifice too much top end and get a little more oomph out of 4th, but there really is no need to re-gear with that trans/motor/tire combo. unless you want to use it to tow on the regular.
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Is it one of the G codes Tate?
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Huh. Sure didn’t see that one coming. Thank you sir.
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yeah, GU6 indicates 3.42. GT4=3.73 GT5=4.10... G80 posi as you all know, which I didn't see on the sticker.
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Non limited slip? Bracket lift? I should change the title of this thread to 89 Pavement Princess.
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you'd need more chrome trim around the doors, windows, handles, tire valve caps, nuestra señora de la virgin de Guadalupe Francisco hanging as an air freshener from the rear view, but you could make that dream come true! I believe in you.
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Non limited slip? Bracket lift? I should change the title of this thread to 89 Pavement Princess.
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Beware of the mulch beds, if questions ask Don......
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Non limited slip? Bracket lift? I should change the title of this thread to 89 Pavement Princess.
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Beware of the mulch beds, if questions ask Don......
So true!
Down at my farm, I dug around the pond into the old road. It is a straight 12 foot drop off into icy water. Around the other pond, I removed the perimeter of trees which served as a protective barrier between the farm path/road and the water. That's gone, and the slippery road surface slopes right into the water. And I just mucked out that side, so, one inch into the water is a 6 foot drop off
And know what?
Those are not the most dangerous places on my farm!
It's the cedar chipper clippings I have piled up here and there!
Number of people/dogs/cars/trucks/motorcycles/side by sides, opossum/deer/turkey/coyotes/mexicans who have fallen in the pond: Zero!
Number of small boys who flipped over a pile of mulch: 2
Mulch actually causes the most injuries on my farm!
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There's finally some movement on this old truck. Not much, but some. This morning I ordered a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks to replace the wore out trailmaster junk. They are long past the end of their service life.
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Non limited slip? Bracket lift? I should change the title of this thread to 89 Pavement Princess.
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Beware of the mulch beds, if questions ask Don......
...Like quicksand!
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That is not a rust bucket. LOL that is a pretty nice truck.
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She’s a 50 footer Jon. I’ll get some pics up close pretty soon so y’all can see the damage. It’s worse than you’d think.
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She’s a 50 footer Jon. I’ll get some pics up close pretty soon so y’all can see the damage. It’s worse than you’d think.
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Aren’t we all fifty footers?
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Got some goodies in the mail. (https://i.imgur.com/9jIHsd2.jpg)
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That’ll help for sure
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What do those do?
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heavy duty door lock actuators
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Are the the hydrologic hood lifts?
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You are both wrong. They’re for the rear hatch.
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Beefed up intermediate steering shaft? ;)
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Rear hatch? They the awesome new tailgate slow open set up? Or maybe like the new ford push button tailgate latch?
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That would go along with the manstep,,,,,,,,,,,,
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That would go along with the manstep,,,,,,,,,,,,
I thought that was what helped H every time she stumbled? Calling Ken! :tongue:
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That would go along with the manstep,,,,,,,,,,,,
Bazinga!
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I’ll be ordering new shock mounting hardware. I bent a wrench trying to take once of the lower rear bolts out. It was a cheap wrench but the nut didn’t show any signs of budging.
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Finally got the Bilsteins put on while at work the other day. The only thing I don’t like about them is how much beating it takes to get them in the mounts. The ones I put on my LB7 were the same way.
(https://i.imgur.com/zlbWFUM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/At3ORQ6.jpg)
Also, I’ve got some good coworkers. I walked away to get something and came back to this. That’s my captain and one of our drivers.
(https://i.imgur.com/E9ccu9e.jpg)
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I sure hope you save those billet wheels. Man those wheels were the baddest things out when I was a kid!
What’s the plan for frame and rust stopper
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Funny you should mention wheels Dave. Yesterday I picked up these that I found on Craigslist. The tires don’t have much left but when I lower it down I’ll need smaller tires anyway. I don’t know what I’ll do with the old wheels yet. The offset puts tires way outside the fender wells which I’m not a fan of anymore. But when I bought them in 98 they were the coolest thing ever.
(https://i.imgur.com/8v7K75D.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eUj9gLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ok5MuOB.jpg)
As of now I plan to treat the rust with Por 15 or 3X Chemistry rust converter and put a set of fender flares on it. Not sure what to do about the lower cab corners. I’ll probably farm that task out to a body shop.
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️ I wanted to seem them all polished and pretty.
The black does look really good. I need to find a set of 18’s in Black because I can’t keep anything shining anymore
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I guess I could send them to you and you could polish to your heart’s content. :beercheers:
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Think they would bolt on to the traverse? Lol I might take ya up on it
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The new used wheels got mounted today. Unfortunately as I was making the swap I noticed a stamp on the back that says “made in China”. What a disappointment. I will probably leave them on for now but in the mean time I’ll be exploring other options. Maybe I can drop it down enough to throw some 285s on an original set of steel wheels and make it look right. In the mean time...
(https://i.imgur.com/W0lBWO4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QFlr1np.jpg)
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/mgdG4yP.jpg)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/mZ8N7WM.jpg)
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/qVzY3rL.jpg)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/lb70OVj.jpg)
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I think it looks perfect just how you have it!!
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Take those alum mags & have them powder coated black.....
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Don't feel bad. The stock 20" wheels on my 2500 are marked china.
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Unless you buy some billet weld wheels or high end wheels. I am sure they all come from chinavile
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I know a lot of crap comes from China these days but I just flat don’t like it. I’ve spent a lot of time and money over the past few years seeking out things made in the USA and there’s no reason to change that now. I’ll leave them as is for the time being but also be keeping my eyes peeled for a made in USA option.
I was going to work on the wipers tomorrow but it appears I’ll be taking the little one to the doctor again instead. She’s had 4 ear infections in the last 4 months and my wife thinks she has another one. If she does she will get tubes ASAP. We expressed concern to our pediatrician over how many antibiotics she’s had to take and he agrees that we should take a different approach.
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Or just by older wheels.
I hear you your daughter, drugs are used for a quick/cheep fix over cause many times.
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Tubes are the only way to go!!! Just bite the bullet and get them for her. Most dr will agree to it.
Helped my kids so much when they were small
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When he was around 4 years old our son had more than plenty ear infections, one right after the other. Finally the dr. put him on a low dose of penicillin for extended time like 30 days. Ear infections not so much any more, but to this day if he gets water in the ears he has problems. Hope the tubes help, kids in pain are no fun.
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We made an appointment with an ENT today after discovering her 5th ear infection. These last two have been less than 20 days apart.
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Baylee had like 5 sets of tubes, no joke. She was & still is a pain in the wallet.....
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My kids have all fallen out and I think they are doing well. It’s like the youngsters aren’t old enough to cough right or something
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If they could put tubes in tomorrow I’d be game for it. We don’t like the amount of antibiotics she’s had to take but unfortunately the first available appointment isn’t until June 26. I’m hoping I can talk our dr into calling the ent and moving this along a little more quickly. The nurse said that happens occasionally.
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just make sure you shop around cost varies greatly and some have ownership in facilities they'll try to send you to.
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In a surprising turn of events, ol red has been pressed into front line service. A guy called me night before last and made me an offer on the F-150. The next day he drove up here and bought it before I even had a chance to clean it out. The strangest part about it is that we met at the bank and he handed me the money before he ever laid eyes on the truck. When I drove away he’d yet to turn the key over. Strange as can be but his money was good so he owns it now.
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Very cool indeed!!
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Can’t argue with money and everything has a price right?
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Indeed it does. My dad called this afternoon because he found what he described as an immaculate 02 Duramax with 116k miles on it. I’d like to get back into a Duramax but I don’t think I want another LB7. I’ve seen a couple 1500 mega cab trucks (2500 chassis best I can tell) with gas engines that are fairly cheap. I may do something like that for the time being and upgrade my wife’s suv before investing another $25k into a truck. Dunno. Gonna sleep on it for a few nights.
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If the injectors have been done on the LB7 and the trans is solid I would think hard on that over 6.0 gas rig. Yep, the HD1500 are a 2500 frame but a lighter 9.5 rear which is not a bad rear for a semi float.
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If you find an LB7 that’s in good shape but needs injectors, you can do a LLY head swap to get out from underneath the LB7 injector problem which would be the only concern. Pretty common mod now where new injector harness is swapped onto the LB7 FICM and then a custom EFI live tune.
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If the injectors have been done on the LB7 and the trans is solid I would think hard on that over 6.0 gas rig. Yep, the HD1500 are a 2500 frame but a lighter 9.5 rear which is not a bad rear for a semi float.
Not 100% positive but I think that chassis still only has 6 inch channel instead of the 8 inch. It’s not the same frame I believe
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If the injectors have been done on the LB7 and the trans is solid I would think hard on that over 6.0 gas rig. Yep, the HD1500 are a 2500 frame but a lighter 9.5 rear which is not a bad rear for a semi float.
Not 100% positive but I think that chassis still only has 6 inch channel instead of the 8 inch. It’s not the same frame I believe
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Does that matter? What I’m asking is will the 6” not hold up to the hp & torque? Or did they go to an 8” because with all that go, torque and upgrades people decided to overload them and with the add ins it was too much for a 6” frame?
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He did say Mega cab.... you guys talking Dodge, or Chevy.
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If you find an LB7 that’s in good shape but needs injectors, you can do a LLY head swap to get out from underneath the LB7 injector problem which would be the only concern. Pretty common mod now where new injector harness is swapped onto the LB7 FICM and then a custom EFI live tune.
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The injectors on that truck have not been done. The truck is in good shape but they want $18k for it and other than power windows it’s a work truck package. Even with a head swap or sacs injectors I could still easily be $22-23k into a 16 year old, base model truck. That’s the way my brain is working anyway.
He did say Mega cab.... you guys talking Dodge, or Chevy.
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You sir are correct. I know they’ll use a lot of fuel but they can be bought in good shape for quite a bit less than a lot of trucks. There’s probably a reason for that though...
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Sorry I was going off Jr and his comments. I missed the make n model
From my understanding was the smaller frame caused more of the bucking or I think the term beaming. But Again I am not on that
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If you find an LB7 that’s in good shape but needs injectors, you can do a LLY head swap to get out from underneath the LB7 injector problem which would be the only concern. Pretty common mod now where new injector harness is swapped onto the LB7 FICM and then a custom EFI live tune.
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The injectors on that truck have not been done. The truck is in good shape but they want $18k for it and other than power windows it’s a work truck package. Even with a head swap or sacs injectors I could still easily be $22-23k into a 16 year old, base model truck. That’s the way my brain is working anyway.
He did say Mega cab.... you guys talking Dodge, or Chevy.
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You sir are correct. I know they’ll use a lot of fuel but they can be bought in good shape for quite a bit less than a lot of trucks. There’s probably a reason for that though...
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Hell I’ll sell you mine for $15k right now. Not much hasn’t been replaced on it. Depending on where you are I’ll deliver it if you fly me home.
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If you find an LB7 that’s in good shape but needs injectors, you can do a LLY head swap to get out from underneath the LB7 injector problem which would be the only concern. Pretty common mod now where new injector harness is swapped onto the LB7 FICM and then a custom EFI live tune.
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The injectors on that truck have not been done. The truck is in good shape but they want $18k for it and other than power windows it’s a work truck package. Even with a head swap or sacs injectors I could still easily be $22-23k into a 16 year old, base model truck. That’s the way my brain is working anyway.
He did say Mega cab.... you guys talking Dodge, or Chevy.
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You sir are correct. I know they’ll use a lot of fuel but they can be bought in good shape for quite a bit less than a lot of trucks. There’s probably a reason for that though...
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Hell I’ll sell you mine for $15k right now. Not much hasn’t been replaced on it. Depending on where you are I’ll deliver it if you fly me home.
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Solid opportunity
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Out the way long ball !!
. I'd take that truck for 15 any day, only because I know how Charles takes care of his rides.
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Do I hear a bidding war going $15500 anyone?
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Gosh that’s tempting Tex. Wasn’t one of your daughters supposed to drive that truck though?
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Gosh that’s tempting Tex. Wasn’t one of your daughters supposed to drive that truck though?
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Moment of weakness. Might want to take advantage
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Do I hear a bidding war going $15500 anyone?
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$15,500...
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...And exactly whose truck are we bidding on?
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Charles' old beast.
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Don, I saw a nice dodge down the road from the office this morning in Florence at a shop. It’s already olive green, all lifted and has all sorts of accessories on it, even had the name of this website stenciled on it. If you talk to the owner nicely, he might work something out with you.
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:popcorn:
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:knucklehead: :likebutton:
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Gosh that’s tempting Tex. Wasn’t one of your daughters supposed to drive that truck though?
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Moment of weakness. Might want to take advantage
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If you’ve got a few free minutes maybe we can talk this weekend Tex?
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Tried to PM but says I can’t send you message? Sat between 4-8
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Tried to PM but says I can’t send you message? Sat between 4-8
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I sent you a pm that looks like it went through. Not sure why it wouldn’t let you send me one.
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The windshield wipers on this truck started acting up when I was still in high school, so at the latest 2002. I’ve put 4K miles on it in the last 16 years so it wasn’t really a big deal. Now that it was forced back into primary duty I had to remedy that.
This is the old wiper motor that is no longer made. I had no luck finding anything that matched and wasn’t sure what to do about it. Finally I found this thread where someone explained that those motors were used for a very short amount of time and weren’t made anymore. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=492998 Fortunately any motor from a 90’s model truck/Tahoe/Yukon/suburban is a direct replacement. Same bolt spacing and plug.
Old motor
(https://i.imgur.com/laDTeIu.jpg)
New motor
(https://i.imgur.com/nfjXHDU.jpg)
All the rubber tubing from the washer reservoir to the spray nozzles was rotten so it got replaced while I was in there. Everything works as it should now.
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Have you ever had to replace the fluid pump yet?
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Have you ever had to replace the fluid pump yet?
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Knock on wood, no I haven’t. But after 16 years of not being used I wouldn’t be surprised if it goes soon.
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I have wondered about it on my other vehicles because of a weak spray but not enough to dig into it
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Surprised there was not even a crossreff with the amount of those trucks built.
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I didn't know you could interchange those motors longball...thanks for the info.
Those older motors are still available from A1 cardone, but they don't come with the pulse module (the part that the harness plugs into...it unplugs from the motor to transfer over)
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I didn't know you could interchange those motors longball...thanks for the info.
Those older motors are still available from A1 cardone, but they don't come with the pulse module (the part that the harness plugs into...it unplugs from the motor to transfer over)
Wish I would’ve know that sooner. I tried several local places and a bunch of online places but not A1cardone. I bought a pulse board first but it was for the new style motor so didn’t even come close to fitting. When I bought the new motor I told them it was for a 97 model. All I had to do was reuse the grommets and time the wiper position.
Surprised there was not even a crossreff with the amount of those trucks built.
I’m sure there is somewhere but nobody at the parts stores I visited had the info. I spent hours searching and reading just to find the page where they had a picture of the style of motor in mine.
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Don, I saw a nice dodge down the road from the office this morning in Florence at a shop. It’s already olive green, all lifted and has all sorts of accessories on it, even had the name of this website stenciled on it. If you talk to the owner nicely, he might work something out with you.
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Funny!
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I’m looking for a steering shaft replacement and the only ones I can find are factory style or $200 Borgeson units. http://zoneoffroad.com/borgeson_steering-upgrades_chevy_1500-pickup?yr=1989
Anybody know of a middle ground between the two?
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Wow, lmc it was $319.
Tries LKQ and they show a rack and pinion which is wrong.
Dorman #425185 is still $180 at rock auto.
Have a pick n pull nearby?
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The borgesen unit I have been told on multiple occasions is worth the cost!!! While I have yet to put one in. It is on my list. Ffriend has had the same borgesn unit installed in a 2005 lifted and 14 wide tires for going on eight years now. No issues no clunk no rattle. Solid unit my friend.
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Thank you for the input gentleman.
We have an LKQ near work but I don’t think l that’d be worth the time for another used shaft. Another factory unit is just under $100 while one of the Borgeson units is $175 and their extreme duty shaft is $222. I can see where the Borgeson would be worth the additional $75 over the factory junk. Then again it’s only another $45 for the extreme duty unit so I’d be crazy not to go with that one right? Guess I’ll sleep on it.
With any luck she’ll get an oil change, new rear diff fluid and gasket, and a set of spark plugs tomorrow.
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Have you ever had to replace the fluid pump yet?
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I used a lot of washer fluid this morning trying to get rid of the old stuff in the reservoir and the pump seems to still be strong. It was throwing fluid onto the top of the cab.
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Clutch in the ol red truck lost pressure as I rolled up to a stop light on the way to daycare Tuesday morning. Almost pushed me and our 9 month old into an intersection before I stood on the brakes. That killed the engine but it’s better than the alternative. Since it’s the only vehicle I have it’s currently at the shop in the hopes of getting it fixed quickly. Talked to the mechanic yesterday and they replaced the slave and master cylinders but he thinks the new master cylinder is bad. Clutch still won’t hold pressure.
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They can take a REALLLLLLLLLY long time to bleed out since you can't really get a power bleeder on them.
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They can take a REALLLLLLLLLY long time to bleed out since you can't really get a power bleeder on them.
The mechanic said they bench bled it and it still didn’t act right. I’m on Daddy daycare duty today but I’m going to go by there and get an update as soon as the baby wakes up. I’m starting to worry about what this bill is going to look like since they’ve had it so long.
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I had to bench bleed the GM master on my wagoneer for several hours... then got the power bleeder hooked up and still watched bubbles for another 1/2 hour until it was cleared. Older masters just aren't as well engineered and there's a lot of space for air pockets.
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You can't bench bleed a clutch master. It either has to be bled as a unit, off the vehicle, or on the vehicle. Sometimes it takes raising the slave above the master to get them to bleed. Not fun. (the air will travel back up to the master between pumps, when not using a vacuum bleeder)
..then once they're bled, it takes 50-150 pumps to finish them off, then sometimes let sit overnight, and start over. (worse case)
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yeah, what the smart guy there said.
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Got the truck back tonight and walked outta there $398 lighter because of it. New master and slave cylinder. As far as I can tell it’s working as it should although the clutch feels like it’s not adjusted properly. It feels like nothing happens until the top couple inches of travel. Is a clutch adjustment something a commoner like myself could do or does it take some uber special tool or skill?
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I don’t think there is an adjustment on it, if I recall correctly my 89 Camaro was the same way & my jk is currently (I know for a fact there is no adjustment in the jk version).
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You mean it doesn't engage until the last couple inches? Or it doesn't disengage until almost on the floor?
..no adjustment
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You mean it doesn't engage until the last couple inches? Or it doesn't disengage until almost on the floor?
..no adjustment
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Nothing happens until my foot is almost off of the pedal.
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That usually means the clutch itself is worn out.(the disc is thin)
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That usually means the clutch itself is worn out.(the disc is thin)
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X2
That signals a clutch problem, not the release mechanism
Sorry if that is bad news...
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That could be the case but that clutch only has 20-25k miles on it and it wasn’t that way before the work was done on it. That’s what made me think there might be an adjustment on these.
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If it’s a couple inches from the top & not slipping drive it......
I don’t like them there (near top) either but some genius decided it’s ideal. If you really don’t like it rip all that crap out and fab up a mechanical setup, reason my left knee gives me trouble some days being those old school heavy race clutches.
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I'm guessing it wasn't that way before because it had air in it or the master was weak, so by fixing it , it actually made it worse so to speak...or...
They might have somehow shifted the clutch fork to a different position (not resting on the pivot ball properly)..or..
...Longball used up his clutch in 25k. :)
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I think I’m with you on just driving it the way it is Shawn. My wife was against me driving this truck every day saying she didn’t trust it to be reliable without throwing a bunch of money at it. Knowing better than to do so, I still disagreed with her. Fast forward a couple weeks and she’s starting to give me those “I told you so” glances. Haha
Ken, you could be right but it’s unlikely. I drive like an old man that has nowhere to be but doesn’t wanna go home.
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I finally changed the engine oil in ol red today. It had 3,800 miles on the old oil but it was due in October of 2003. Then I changed fluid in the rear differential. Whoever though the cover didn’t need a drain plug needs a good kick in the scrotum. Reading online I saw the cover bolts need to be torqued to 29ft lbs so that’s what they got along with a new Fel-Pro gasket.
(https://i.imgur.com/5UrF5Cn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5zdyx9T.jpg)
We’re required to train every day on something related to the fire service. Since I work hazardous materials we have access to more tools than a standard fire engine. Check small tools training off the list.
(https://i.imgur.com/bF8waxj.jpg)
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Get a hold of ol tater, he has some great lube locker gaskets for that rear diff.....
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Get a hold of ol tater, he has some great lube locker gaskets for that rear diff.....
That is true, but knowing he's already been through that wonderful experience, maybe we'll save that LubeLocker gasket for the next oil change :wink:
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That’s right, next time. Of course next time I’ll probably try to search out an aftermarket cover with a drain plug built into it.
On a good note, the last couple of days the clutch seems to have gotten better. On a bad note, I haven’t gotten to the air conditioner yet and we’re already in the mid 90’s with 75% humidity. Luckily my 2-55 backup air conditioning still works.
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Only 55?. Need that 1/2 in the rear.
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Only 55?. Need that 1/2 in the rear.
Utilizing the 1/2 causes the dust and dirt in the bed to be sucked into the cab so it usually stays closed. Suppose I could clean that out today....
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I've got a cover coming for the GM in a few months w/ fill and drain magnetic plugs when you're ready.
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I've got a cover coming for the GM in a few months w/ fill and drain magnetic plugs when you're ready.
Thanks Tate. I'll get one next time I have a reason to break into it.
I ended up with an unexpected $500 into that slave and master cylinder so I probably won't spring for the Borgeson steering shaft. This truck wont be my daily driver for long and I am dead set on paying cash for my next vehicle so I dont want to invest money that isn't necessary. What is necessary to address short term is the strange sensation this truck has when hitting bumps at speeds >30mph. As the suspension compresses the truck will yaw to the right and as it rebounds it yaws back to the left. I noticed last night that there was slight movement in the outer tie rod ends if I grabbed the tie rod and twisted it. I'm not sure if that is the cause for the strange sensation but both boots also leak grease so they need to be replaced anyway. I thought it was caused by 3 of those junk trailmaster shocks failing before the 4th but I still have the twisting after installing the Bilsteins. Anybody have another idea?
Both ends look about the same.
(https://i.imgur.com/wkNyXSw.jpg)
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After tie rods and steering the next order of business will be lowing this thing down a little. There are a few reasons I want to do this.
1. The Nitto tires that came on the 17' black wheels are bout shot. I have a good set of 285/70R17E Cooper AT3s in my garage that I'd like to use instead of spending $1,000 on tires to put on a truck I've driven 3,800 miles in the last 14.5 years.
2. The truck rides like crap and I think lowering it a little will help.
3. The truck is right at the limit of the recommended height for the Bilstein shocks. I don't want to overextend and damage them.
4. The CV angles are steeper than I'd like for them to be.
5. The thing is darn hard to get into and I don't like steps.
Right now the front is lifted 6" and there is a 4.25" block in the rear which makes the truck sit roughly level. I would like to run a 3" block and lower the front 1.5 inches. I'd rather have a slight forward rake than that stupid looking and pointless California lean. *side note: around here they call it bulldogging which is even more dumb. At least when its called a cali lean you can blame the influence on the goobers in hippie land.*
I don't know if there is 1.5" of movement there without a different torsion key but it will come down some.
(https://i.imgur.com/NbOwqAn.jpg)
This is a little better view of how much space I have to work with.
(https://i.imgur.com/oOJwXU9.jpg)
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I am about at the same lift with basically the same geometry. Mine rides OK, but it is a 2500hd with diesel, so more front, well all around weight.
Upper ball joints go bad fast when lifted. Anything past level is not the nest for these IFS front ends. Travel and shocks are the big key for a good ride.
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I am about at the same lift with basically the same geometry. Mine rides OK, but it is a 2500hd with diesel, so more front, well all around weight.
Upper ball joints go bad fast when lifted. Anything past level is not the nest for these IFS front ends. Travel and shocks are the big key for a good ride.
That's one more I should have mentioned in my list. I think the truck has very little down travel left. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't have put this particular kit on the truck when I lifted it. Actually, I would've taken my dad's offer to pay the difference for a 350hp crate motor and automatic and not lifted it at all.
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Yeah but the lift / tire & wheels were cool..... :likebutton:
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Yeah but the lift / tire & wheels were cool..... :likebutton:
For sure it was. And when young ladies grow up in a place with nothing but cattle and trees for 100 miles in any direction they dig lifted trucks. Truth be told that's probably why I did it.
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I put the wrong shocks on mine the first time and tore the front mounts off the solid axle!
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Get someone to sit in the truck, running w/ the tires on the ground and get low enough to see the steering under the front end. have them gently move the wheel back and forth without moving the tires and watch the movement in the tie rod ends, pittman arm (out of the steering box), idler arm and drag link ends. most likely all of those ends are shot. https://www.amazon.com/Steering-Suspension-Chevrolet-1988-1991-Adjusting/dp/B074Q38KKK/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=K1500%7C454&Year=1989%7C1989&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=9&vehicleType=automotive super cheap, I'm sure there are higher quality out there, but this is the 1st one I came upon. Knowing what I know about Chevrolet IFS, I would just do it all. you're experiencing bump steer and wander from worn out steering, most likely pittman arm and idler are shot. you should have very little to no movement in any of those connections.
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Get someone to sit in the truck, running w/ the tires on the ground and get low enough to see the steering under the front end. have them gently move the wheel back and forth without moving the tires and watch the movement in the tie rod ends, pittman arm (out of the steering box), idler arm and drag link ends. most likely all of those ends are shot. https://www.amazon.com/Steering-Suspension-Chevrolet-1988-1991-Adjusting/dp/B074Q38KKK/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=K1500%7C454&Year=1989%7C1989&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=9&vehicleType=automotive super cheap, I'm sure there are higher quality out there, but this is the 1st one I came upon. Knowing what I know about Chevrolet IFS, I would just do it all. you're experiencing bump steer and wander from worn out steering, most likely pittman arm and idler are shot. you should have very little to no movement in any of those connections.
$85 for all that? Kinda worries me just thinking about people running down the road with parts that cheap. :facepalm:
The truck has some bump steer but it is different than the twist I feel when the suspension compresses. I'll slowly start acquiring steering parts. The poor ol thing needs it.
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yeah, that was just the 1st search result. spicer or moog would be better choices
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Very common for the idler to be bad also that is included in that kit.
If you are going to drive it like you have. That kit is the way to go.
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Guy at work was having his windows tinted today so I had him do mine while he was here.
(https://i.imgur.com/imiSpLD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JCxrQYq.jpg)
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Looks good.
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Nothing much to report here except a few maintenance items. Thermostats, spark plugs, new filters and such. Still trying to decide what to do about the rust but haven’t made a decision yet. You can hear the bedsides crack and crunch when you lean against them and that got me to thinking about a flatbed. I’d be unique and just plain handy to have. The search is on but they’re hard to find in decent shape that aren’t $1,500.
Since buying the wife a 4runner I’ve been driving her old GMC Terrain until I find another truck. Had a few prospects but I can get anybody to take my money. Latest one was an 04 LB7 extended cab. An extended cab is not what I need but this one just hit 49k miles and the owner wants $16,500 for it. I had the money in hand last weekend when I drove it but he said his girlfriend’s son in law is trying to get a loan for it. He’s been trying for a month and that sounds like more than enough time but I don’t reckon that’s any of my business.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZEJUBM5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a5N0HUV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6CkD9Q3.jpg)
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That is a nice truck and price. Just be sure the injectors have been done or get a warranty for that.
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The only thing that’s been done to that one is new batteries. It’s 100% stock, including the 245 factory size tires. I don’t think I’ll get that one bought. I get the feeling that his girlfriend (he’s 84) is calling the shots.
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Between work, Thanksgiving, mom’s cancer, Christmas festivities, and a 15 month old I haven’t had time to touch the truck. Decided I want to get rid of that cowl induction hood and go back to a factory looking front end. That hood was cool when I was 17 but I am tired of looking at it from the cockpit. It obnoxious. I’ve found some original hoods in good shape but they are all 3+ hours drive from here. Same goes for the flad beds. Also considering removing the grill guard. It’s a cheaply built unit that’s basically just for decoration anyway.
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Truck started running rough recently. To the point that it will barely move out of its own tracks until I (eventually) get it to roughly 3k rpms. Then it picks up and accelerates at what feels like a fairly normal rate. Started today with some simple stuff. New plugs and wires, then coolant temp sensor. Started bending wrenches trying to pull the old 02 sensor out. It’s been salt welded so I moved on to fuel filter. Once I look closely I start thinking that the lines are so rusted I’m not sure they wouldn’t give up before the connections at the filter so I had to put that off until I get some time at home. Can’t take the chance of having a broken down and rusted out POV taking up space in the truck bay at the station.
(https://i.imgur.com/zrzfEgn.jpg)
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Its a little better once it gets to operating temp but still not fixed. I’ll go after the fuel filter next. When I bough this truck back in 1999 I put exhaust on it with hollowed out catalytic converters. I see part number for both upstream and downstream 02 sensors but I do not have a downstream sensor. Over the course of the last 20 years I’ve had several 02 sensors replaced. Wondering now if going back to an exhaust with both sensors would help?
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