VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > Build Threads

LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]

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KensAuto:
                                                                                                             (2288)
Holton from Alligator called me last night when he got my email about the missing block off plate.
He's a good guy who cares about his customers and stuff exactly like this shows it.
He is sending me a coated block off plate 2nd day, so I'll have it by Friday

Here's some photos of what the EGR delete looks like
Missing are 4 hose clamps and the block off plate.
Of course the down pipe is a part of my installation since it will have to come out anyway, then why not replace it with the good stuff.






Quote:
Originally Posted by L****
"What is the hose for in the 2nd post?"

First of all, my caveat
I have not installed this before and am no expert, in fact I am yet to reach novice status.
However
Over several conversations with Holton at Alligator who worked on development of this kit, with what I have and will shortly receive (the actual block off plate) can completely eliminate the EGR system. Those rubber hoses must (Speculation) be a part of the re-route of engine coolant that used to go to the EGR coolers, which have or will shortly find their way to the scrap metal recycler. You actually remove all that stuff in lieu of just blocking off and retaining the now unused components.

Posted by Guyton:
on the LMLs there's 2 coolant lines, one for the 1st cooler and one for the 2nd cooler. the blue line is for the 2nd cooler when it gets removed. the larger black line is for the first one that resembles the LMM EGR cooler if you was to delete it, almost the same as the LMMs but still way different.

as for your plate Don, you'll have it tomorrow buddy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto 
"so you delete both coolers with the kit? that would sure free up some space!

and don, is that an 'uppipe' in the pic? u said something about a down pipe...or is that just part of the delete kit "

Yes, Ken you completely remove both coolers
And
Yes that is the supplied up pipe, passenger side
I mentioned a down pipe, because I will be removing the stocker and replacing it with the Alligator pipe at the same time, since I would have to remove it anyway.
The down pipe is not included in the kit, but something I've had for a month or so awaiting install.

KensAuto:
Update time gentlemens                                                                                               (2334)
(I know gentlemens is not proper, but I's using it anyway)
(I know I's is improper as well!)

Holton sent me this really cool looking block off plate. I will say that powder coating has gotten much better!
I haven't been able to get started on the EGR delete this week yet because of a rash of appointments and prior commitments. I think I am going to have to rent a car so that the truck can be down over a few days while I grab an hour here and there to get this stuff installed.
I ordered a bunch more stuff today so the projects are still coming at a good rate.
I will be installing the EGR block off
Then I decided to install an AMP Research step. However in keeping with my "fix everything even if it works fine" approach. I am going to modify the step. I plan to plate the underside with 3/16" steel to allow it to scrape ofer Kias and Daewoos and construct a steel support structure that the step can fold up against that will support the vehicle weight.
I finally decided to go with the electric step instead of my proposed rock rail/step system after suffering from a significant hearing loss in my right ear. That's the ear closest to my wife!
I also purchased the Cognito upper control arm, and Holton was able to source me some Rare parts tie rods which just came out as well. THe idea here will be to increase the front suspension travel. All those parts will allow significantly more droop-out.
Holton sold me some neat front sway bar end links which are super beefy.
Finally, I stepped up to the plate and purchased the Hypertech speedo in line calibrator. No one can tell me if it will work with the H&S XT Pro I run, so I'm going have to be the guinnie pig. At least when I get that sucker installed, we will finally know for sure.
Lastly I didn't order them yet, but I am looking at either some exhaust manifolds and up pipes or H2O/Methanol injection to keep things safe.
So that's the plan for the fall.
Oh
Forgot to mention
Road Armor finished the new rear bumper build minus the frame brackets. They will be shipping that to me and I'll finally be bolting that puppy on!
YIPPEE
So lots of good stuff on the horizion as long as I don't get lazy and slow down even more! 

KensAuto:
OK, boys and girls here we go again, day 1 of the EGR delete and Alligator down pipe install.
Day 1 because with all the appointments I am working around, it will probably take me until Saturday to finish everything.
This is a medium difficulty task which is very laborous. It's a case where there is quite a bit to do and it seems almost every fastner is a bear to get to. There are some I will need to remove tomorrow which I can't even see. I will have to remove them totally by feel.
I started by removing the right wheel well splash liner again and worked in that area for awhile.



In this area you basically remove everything you can get a wrench on.





And then the passenger up-pipe lower flange bolts



With the bolts and the fuel injector removed, I moved up to the engine bay area. Beginning with the air filter inlet duct, my plan was to "work to uncover things." That meant getting the air duct out of there then move to the aluminum inlet "S" pipe



Next I went for the turbo inlet assembly. That plastic elbow is held in place by another V-band clamp. It is very difficult to see so when I loosened it, I was not able to remove the elbow. So I then decided to remove the EGR hot air pipe to see if that freed up some room.



The elbow was still loose but stuck so I thought I would try to remove the front of the two EGR coolers. I first removed the EGR valve motor assembly. None of these parts will be reused 



That didn't help, and upon further examination, I could see that removing that front cooler was going to be pretty difficult, so for the second time I called Holton at Alligator. He clued me in to the fact that the V-band clamp needed to be loosened all the way, which I did. After having done that, and removing the PCV valve from the inlet, the elbow came right out!


Right about then the UPS guy showed up with a couple of boxes. I opened them to find these cool parts all oiled up and bubble wrapped inside. These parts are for the build up of that bump-fire M4 I am going to put together soon.


OK, back to the business at hand. Next I started removing everything connected to the downpipe, and the turbo heat shield as well.
I purchased a special double hinged ratchet and already had the O2 sensor socket which is shown here and makes removing our sensor a snap. THat O2 sensor will not be reused.






KensAuto:
Next the actual heat shield is removed



With the heat shield out of there the down pipe remaining sensor and V-band can be removed. I actually removed the down pipe with the heat shield still attached by persuading it downward with a length of steel pipe and a rubber mallet.



Back to the top side, I went after the rubber coolant lines, disconnecting and removing them as well.




More hose removal:





I noticed that not very much dexi-cool anti freeze actually leaks when removing all this stuff so the mess is not too much to handle.
Here's a shot of the bed of the truck which is serving as temporary parts storage. It's filling up! Most of the rusty iron stuff will not be reused!

KensAuto:
                                                                                                                                             (2394)
The plan is to resume the EGR removal tomorrow morning. It will be the most difficult part of the whole delete procedure. Every bolt I have to go for can not be seen directly. Take a look at the two engine pics Holton sent me. When you're looking ath your engine that plastic hat is about a foot above the turbocharger. The turbo is also well aft of that hat with all of the exhaust part of it located well under the cowl and firewall...Yea, starting to get the picture?
So while doing the contortionist thing you will have to remove 8 bolts which are really on tight totally from feel. The only time you will ever be able to see them is when you finally get them out.



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