Author Topic: OverLanding Camper Build (Read 74696 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1200 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:12:27 PM »

The two sections of wood are cut to 36" length and represent the opening of the wheel well

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1201 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:13:23 PM »

Next the center beam was added in

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1202 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:16:34 PM »

There's a lot going on here.

The sections of pine are positioned where the two longitudinal frame rails will go that fit to the inside of the wheel wells. Since the suspension will attach to these, I extended the rails forward where they are captured by some more lateral beams. This should stiffen that area up to accommodate the forces of those big tires moving about and against the weight of the camper

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1203 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:18:27 PM »

Next some intermediate cross sections were added in such a way as to catch the weight of the main body where the front storage box attaches. That attachment is brute strong, and I plan for it to remain that way for a long time!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1204 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:19:41 PM »

Next the 45 degree sections were tacked in that tie the outside rails into the main pulling center beam

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1205 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:22:57 PM »

I didn't have any pine welding rod, only some old Oak rod, so I couldn't weld the 2X4 fir pieces to the steel (Shucks emoji!!!)

Anyone interested in buying eastern Kentucky?

If you believe the pine welding rod thing, you may be in the market for half a state!

When those two 36" sections get delivered and welded in, I'll cut away the outer longitudinal rails where indicated, freeing up the wheel well space

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1206 on:** March 30, 2020, 06:24:00 PM »

And that's where I left it after this pretty productive day!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1207 on:** March 30, 2020, 07:51:34 PM »

Looking good Chief

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dave945 · « **Reply #1208 on:** March 30, 2020, 09:47:29 PM »

Frame is looking good, but I noticed you have the hood open on the Burb, you doing a fluid change? ;)

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Nate · « **Reply #1209 on:** March 30, 2020, 11:00:06 PM »

Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1210 on:** March 30, 2020, 11:06:12 PM »

Quote from: Nate on March 30, 2020, 11:00:06 PM

Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......

It takes over a year to actually catch the virus

I should have it sealed up well before then

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1211 on:** March 30, 2020, 11:07:24 PM »

Quote from: dave945 on March 30, 2020, 09:47:29 PM

Frame is looking good, but I noticed you have the hood open on the Burb, you doing a fluid change? ;)

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Charging the battery, reworking some of the wiring I did. SOmething is causing the battery to drain, so I'm eliminating things until I find that happee place

Nate · « **Reply #1212 on:** March 30, 2020, 11:08:40 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on March 30, 2020, 11:06:12 PM

Quote from: Nate on March 30, 2020, 11:00:06 PM
Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......
It takes over a year to actually catch the virus

I should have it sealed up well before then

stlaser · « **Reply #1213 on:** March 30, 2020, 11:52:06 PM »

Don, you keep that up we might be able to get you a job in an Elkhart IN rv manufacturing facility!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1214 on:** March 31, 2020, 10:41:04 AM »

Nooo thanks!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1215 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:10:13 PM »

I picked up the two 36" sticks and tacked them in place

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1216 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:10:58 PM »

Then I welded one side, flipped it, then finished welding the other side

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1217 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:12:09 PM »

Then some quick work with the plasma torch and the wheel wells were opened up. I left the edges unfinished for the time being, but those areas will be addressed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1218 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:13:58 PM »

Those Timbren axle assemblies are no joke. Very heavy and made from thick steel. Just take a gander at the steel and the hardware:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1219 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:16:05 PM »

Even the spindle is massive and made up of super thick steel as well

It bolts to the trailing arm with 4-9/16" fine thread bolts with locking nuts...Again, no joke!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1220 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:18:15 PM »

Their mounting surface is so wide I had to weld in a sideways piece of 2" X 4" just to accommodate the mass of those arms. I liked doing that, as it added a lot of strength where the business will be taking place

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1221 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:19:44 PM »

I decided to just weld them to the frame. Heck, I'm never going to remove them, and they should outlast peanut butter.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1222 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:20:52 PM »

Picked up the lunette ring and mount, along with the safety chains and the wiring harness connector

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1223 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:22:11 PM »

I took one parting shot, then set down the camera while I closed down the shop. I turned around to find a grand daughter with my camera.

She'll need some practice... ;-)

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1224 on:** March 31, 2020, 08:23:38 PM »

I think she handled the camera well keeps that mug out of view lol

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EL TATE · « **Reply #1225 on:** April 01, 2020, 11:40:46 AM »

I like the "welding-hoodie".

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1226 on:** April 01, 2020, 01:38:12 PM »

Quote from: EL TATE on April 01, 2020, 11:40:46 AM

I like the "welding-hoodie".

You sent it to me some years ago, remember?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1227 on:** April 01, 2020, 07:55:28 PM »

Fuzzy pic of the suspension hanging with the frame sitting on portable welding tables ;-))

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1228 on:** April 01, 2020, 07:56:27 PM »

Amd I skip welded everything suspension related to the frame

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1229 on:** April 01, 2020, 07:57:09 PM »

I tidied up the wheel opening corners with some angle

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1230 on:** April 01, 2020, 07:58:16 PM »

Next the lunette ring mount was given a home at the front of the frame, just where you'd expect to see it!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1231 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:00:57 PM »

^^^ After I figure out the exact height, I'll shorten that front mount by a couple of bolt holes. That thing hanging down serves as a great "Wait-a=minute" device

I threw up the front leg/stand here on the outside of a frame rail while I sort all that out.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1232 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:04:10 PM »

The saw horses are holding the frame about 5" too high, so here you can see the aft stabilizing legs will fit fine without modification.. I cannot, however mount them to the side because they would have to stick out too far to be able to use the handle. I can't mount them directly to the rear frame, as the camper structure comes off that point at a 45 degree angle.

So, I'm going to have to come up with some sort of folding leg apparatus that tucks away for travel, but folds out when we hit the campsite

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1233 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:05:34 PM »

Here's the 8-lug brake stuff which is big time overkill for this 3500-4000 lb camper

I sprayed the cosmoline type preservative on the inside face of the brake drum in an attempt to fight off rust and corrosion.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1234 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:08:40 PM »

THose brakes mounted up in a jiffy quick

Obviously the bearings were packed with the gooey stuff, and the whole thing bolted together

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1235 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:10:09 PM »

I took a short break and created the emergency chain mount from a 9/16" bolt

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1236 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:12:08 PM »

Two points

I have seen people weld on the rear stabilizers to a pipe that is removable. Think receiver hitch and hitch mating.
Pull a pin and the can be out of the way Easy

Second

Granted my trailer is lots lots lower then yours but it does have some built in skid points on corners and it drags them regularly. Almost need to replace them. But I think I would benefit your build to add some departure angle plates that can be sacrificed if need be
Thinking Moab trail rig and trailer in my mind

All else looks great in my book

Do You have spots to run wire under the trailer that the wires will be protected from shrubs in the mulch beds? Seen some trailers with pipe welded in.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #1237 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:13:02 PM »

Rutt-Roo, Houston, we have a problem

I guess this setup does not like the modern inward spaced wheel offsets.

This dog right here won't hunt

There is an easy enough fix, just install some wheel spacers and I should be cookin' with bacon grease!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1238 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:16:54 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 01, 2020, 08:12:08 PM

Two points

I have seen people weld on the rear stabilizers to a pipe that is removable. Think receiver hitch and hitch mating.
Pull a pin and the can be out of the way Easy

Second

Granted my trailer is lots lots lower then yours but it does have some built in skid points on corners and it drags them regularly. Almost need to replace them. But I think I would benefit your build to add some departure angle plates that can be sacrificed if need be
Thinking Moab trail rig and trailer in my mind

All else looks great in my book

Do You have spots to run wire under the trailer that the wires will be protected from shrubs in the mulch beds? Seen some trailers with pipe welded in.

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Good points!

I'll look into armoring it up IAW our earlier discussion

As for the routing of wires, I have an idea to punch a 2" hole through the frame front to back, then weld in some 2" OD tubing to allow me to place the wiring and the propane line way up inside the frame

I'm undecided, but I could also hang an aux water tank beneath it, or even tuck one or two partially up inside the frame to give more H2O capacity

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1239 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:17:51 PM »

Spacing of the tire in the wheel well looks g-t-g

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1240 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:19:07 PM »

And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1241 on:** April 01, 2020, 08:30:36 PM »

I approve! Also that inner tire clearance is fine. Think of it as a mud scraper.

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rpar86 · « **Reply #1242 on:** April 01, 2020, 09:14:03 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 01, 2020, 08:19:07 PM

And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red

I think you painted it red to match your shin after bashing it on the ring.

How about stabilizer jacks like this? Just make sure they’re tucked up high enough like Dave says.

CLEMON · « **Reply #1243 on:** April 01, 2020, 09:16:36 PM »

What about replacing the stabilizer jack handle with a nut you can power with a cordless impact?

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1244 on:** April 01, 2020, 10:30:01 PM »

I like this power tool idea

The Jack’s in the above photo would need some added length. I am not sure the height of dons caboose and to my understanding those don’t fold down that far. But I imagine he could add some length to them to reach out

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #1245 on:** April 01, 2020, 10:34:38 PM »

Quote from: CLEMON on April 01, 2020, 09:16:36 PM

What about replacing the stabilizer jack handle with a nut you can power with a cordless impact?

That's not a bad idea at all!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1246 on:** April 01, 2020, 10:36:47 PM »

Quote from: rpar86 on April 01, 2020, 09:14:03 PM

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 01, 2020, 08:19:07 PM
And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red
I think you painted it red to match your shin after bashing it on the ring.

How about stabilizer jacks like this? Just make sure they’re tucked up high enough like Dave says.

Ryan, I am familiar with that system, I have one on my camper.

It wouldn't work for several reasons. First it is flimsy. Second it cannot accommodate or adapt to uneven terrain like I would have to deal with on the trail.

But thanks for the suggestion...keeping the gray matter stirred up

rpar86 · « **Reply #1247 on:** April 01, 2020, 11:41:13 PM »

What happens if the drill battery is dead? Ratchet?

The pic I posted - do those type operate in tandem from the single crank point, hence your comment about not confirming to uneven terrain? Agreed, flimsy is not good.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1248 on:** April 01, 2020, 11:41:55 PM »

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Stallion/288-01892-2.html

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rpar86 · « **Reply #1249 on:** April 01, 2020, 11:45:18 PM »

Saw those pop up too, Dave (see what I did there?? Pop up camper...). Doesn’t look like they really ratchet?

(Ps saw them cheaper on amazon).