The Oracle...Jared's Corner

[Flyin6]

Folks,

Jared did not start this, I did. I did because it is my custom to recognize intelligence and at times brilliance (No, not you Tex, Shawn,Ken ;-) And push them into the limelight.

So Jared has shown himself worthy of advising men who, have questions about building techniques, has shown himself to restrain the DOT in him (Unlike others here) and I believe is capable of herding cats (Managing the men here).

Therefore by the authority vested in me (Cause I pay the bills!) here on this noble web site, I hereby knight thee, Sir Jared, and declare he be from this day fortwith

"Knower and Sayer of All Things Buildith" (NATB)

So let it be written, so let it be done.

Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the twelveth month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.










Now get your butt busy!

[TexasRedNeck]

Jared

Your advice has been very helpful on my build.

Would appreciate a discussion of window installation since there is much conflicting information and that is where a lot of leaks occur.

Wood frame construction with tyvek. Fiberglass windows.

I’m planning on using the flex flashing seal on the bottoms and up the side about 6 inches. Cutting house wrap flap at top. Caulk three sides and flash tape sides then top. Going to try to beat the sill up and use shims to make the slope outward since I didn’t plan it when I Built it.

Why the extra housewrap/moisture barrier apron below the window when tyvek is already in place??? 

Help a novice please.


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[Jared Herzog]

It sounds like you are on the right track with your installation plan. I have installed both vinyl windows and aluminum. I will give some installation thoughts.
I go back and forth in the debate over aluminum vs vinyl. Each group swears their chosen type is best. They both have strong points and weak points. Here are some of my personal pros and cons for each. Personally i have no preference and just install what a customer has chosen.
Aluminum
Pros:
Cheaper
No rot
Easy to replace glass and other parts
Cons:
Transfer of hot and cold
Prone to sweat in the winter
Status as a cheap window

Vinyl
Pros
Easy nail flange for installation
Easy to replace glass and parts
Much less transfer of hot and cold
Less window sweating
Better r value due to thermal transfer
Cons
Cost
Shrinkage
Deterioration. This is supposed to be fixed with new formulations.  But, most windows we have to switch out are vinyl due to hail breaking the brittle vinyl. Plastics vs the sun in Texas and the sun wins. 

When purchasing standard windows aluminum and vinyl have different rough openings. Usually***** For discussion I will consider a 3’0” X5’0”. Vinyl rough opening would be 3’1/2”X5’1/2” where the aluminum would be 3’X5’ even. This can change and to get around this if the openings were done backwards would be to special order or alter the rough openings.
Here is a brief rundown of how i install a window. If using the zip system use their tape on the sill and window. I have used the zip system once now and there are good and bad sides to the product. I am not a fan yet.
The house wrap system has a bit different process and that is the one i will spend the most time explaining.
Before i start i cut the tyvek to wrap into the window opening. The top can be cut without wrapping it inside the opening but i wrap it in. This gives me a layer between the window and wood to provide a moisture barrier for the sweating that may occur.
Then i use the moist stop product to wrap the sill and sides up six inches. I am of the opinion that the moist stop product helps because when windows sweat the moisture runs down hill. Due to wrapping the tyvek in you end up with a triangle in the corner that is exposed. It is this corner or corners that will see the most moisture due to gravity and if the window is not perfectly level the water will favor one side. Also, i have had water pass through tyvek. I do not think it should but when we use the stuff to cover holes in roofing or to use as a tarp temporarily water passes. The moist stop will not pass moisture. But, it will not breathe either. Hence why it is used in smaller areas. Just a different product with a different purpose.
The moist stop gets lined up on the inside and extends out. The corners get cut and the product folded over the outer edge. Staple the horizontal piece to the sheeting. Then the sides get folded over but not stapled. I then cut two 6” by 12” pieces one for each corner. This piece goes over the horizontal piece and under the side piece then everything is stapled. These pieces end up pretty diagonal for best coverage. Just do your best to layer the products and shed water out. Any exposed or bad areas then can be taped over with window tape.
The next step is to read the installation instructions for the window you are putting in. They all vary in small ways. Some will want the perimeter siliconed before install. Some will not. Some will require some site applied silicone for best performance and the instructions list these areas. They are usually the upper corners. Some will have a fastener pattern that must be used to retain warranty as well. Then fasten the window to the opening. Most manufacturers will void the warranty if a nail gun is used. They are brutal in their impact of the fastener and this leads to windows which bind. The vinyl windows have a fastener flange. The metal windows need pilot holes drilled. I find the hole is best to drill because it minimizes the risk of damage to a window when you try to hammer a nail through or force a screw to bore through the metal mounting flange.
I use two speed squares to lift the window off the sill which aids in leveling it. Center the window in the opening from side to side. Level the window. Make sure the gap at the top is neither too large or too small. If it is too large add lumber to close the gap at this time. If it is too small use paint stir sticks to reduce the bottom gap. I use a mix of one gallon and five gallon sticks for spacers. This pattern of spacing and gapping should be consistent with all the windows so they do not end up at different levels. This is important if windows are close to each other and trimmed out as a unit.
From here i check everything about the window and its function. Once fastened i window tape the sides and top. There are different thoughts on taping the bottom. Here is what i do since i use moist stop. I tape the bottom leaving a small gap in the center which lacks tape. About 1/2” so water can get out. This keeps it sealed up well for air penetration. Moisture will be able to get out between the moist stop and tyvek already since the window tape does not reach that horizontal area.
These are the steps I use. I have had good luck with them but there are other methods as well that are correct.

[Jared Herzog]

Here are two images of a window i did recently. The tape on the bottom runs the length but does not show the slit in the center for any moisture to drain out. You can see how i did the moist stop, tyvek, and tape.

[Bigdave_185]

Welcome to the team Jared

Good luck herding the cats  around here


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[Jared Herzog]

Thanks. This is pretty intimidating for me. I looked up the definition for oracle and it is one who gives advise that is ambiguous or obscure so it took some of the intimidation factor away.
Really though i do enjoy construction and would like to help others if possible. I am certain i will also be learning from everyone else at the same time.

[BobbyB]

Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the eleventh month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.

I believe that December 3rd is in the twelfth (12th) month of the year. Day 337 on the Julian calendar.

[Flyin6]

Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the eleventh month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.

I believe that December 3rd is in the twelfth (12th) month of the year. Day 337 on the Julian calendar.

Frickin' NCO's

[Flyin6]

Good job J 

And you looked up "Oracle"...Outstanding! 

^^^This one is gonna work out (Unlike some others around here)

[BobbyB]

Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind. 

[cudakidd53]

Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind. 

That’s correct Bobby; such conduct doesn’t “Warrant” a response! 

[Flyin6]

Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind. 

That’s correct Bobby; such conduct doesn’t “Warrant” a response! 

Bravo!

[Jared Herzog]

So what do you guys want me to do with this thread? I am not certain what to do. I have builds and such i can post. But, should those go in a different build thread? A build thread for each one? Or should i start posting stuff we are doing in the hopes it promotes conversation?
How would it be best to proceed? What is the vision for this section? What would be most helpful to the membership?

[OldKooT]

Jared... welcome to the forum

My advice is to not have any real goal here in this forum. What will happen is topic deviation, due to assorted causes. It's just a matter of time.

Since your the oracle I do have a question. Any thoughts on why Tyvek prints their name all over EVERYTHING that will be covered up?

I just once want to see a house wrapped that says "this side out"

[Bigdave_185]

You could start a builder tips portion,  I know when I framed with different guys we all did things a little different, from how each person sheeted a wall before standing it, or what method they used to put in a header over a door, things of that nature might be helpful or tools that you use and review good or bad than buy more new tools


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[TexasRedNeck]

I’d like to see tips on common mistakes that builders make that we should look out for if we are building or checking over someone who is building for us.


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[OldKooT]

Ok TRN.... I can take pictures of my home remodeling if you really want to see all the things not to do. 

I have learned this week that you shouldn't use a chainsaw to remove plaster and lathe. Even with a fan running your wife will smell the chain-saw fumes and declare you a "neanderthal" otherwise it works very well.

On a very less serious note: The proper way to hang a pre hung door would be handy. I need to replace the front door some time in the near future. And I don't want yet another door hanging fiasco like the last one I clearly did something wrong with.

[TexasRedNeck]

Norm me too. I have three 6’0 double doors across the back of my house in the living room and I want to remove and install better quality doors so a primer on installing door would be awesome.  Also should I leave the 2x6 baseplate at the bottom of the rough opening of the entry door in the casita or does that get removed?


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[Flyin6]

Just thought of something

Jared is the Oracle of building

You could say "Oracle Jared"

or "OJ" for short

       That's no good!

But if he is the Oracle of Building

Could he be the, "JOB"

Jared, Oracle of building

or

Jared, Oracle of construction, "JOC"

Yea, that's it, JOC

So if you want to ask a question about buildin' something, then, "Ask the JOC"

So let it be written, so let it be done!

[TexasRedNeck]

Pulled over from JRs room addition thread:

Regarding PEX, which is simply the type of cross linked polyethylene tubing, there are several ways to connect it.

There are crimp rings and barb shanks, of which there are hard copper (?) rings that get crushed with a circular crimp pliers, crimp hose clamps that get pinched on one side like a hose clamp. 

There are tool less shark bite fittings where the hose is pressed into a retention and o-ring sealed fitting.

There are fittings over barbs where hard plastic rings are expanded mechanically and then allowed to shrink back to size to secure the joint.

It appears that the tool to crimp the hose clamp style, side crimp are much more affodable than the circular crimpers, and expanders for the plastic rings.

For the occasional use, small job DIY, which is the best system and why?  I am leaning towards the side crimp hose rings because one tool works on 3/8 up to 1 inch

https://youtu.be/Ltu1RdArHAM

[Jared Herzog]

I have started looking at other systems also. I think they will all do fine. The key is removing steps which someone could skip which may lead to a leak. When we have guys working for us we try to make it idiot proof or it will get messed up. Too many guys just do not care and when dealing with plumbing this could be expensive.
I use Viega. I just happened into it when my supplier recommended the stuff. The parts are impossible to get last minute on a weekend as they are not readily available like the systems at Lowes and Home Depot.
If i had to do it all over i would do Viega or the sharkbite kit with copper compression rings. I do not trust the barbed fittings with o rings. No reason other than i just wonder how long the o ring will last in the different water quality areas. With some wells around here we have a lot of sulfur and i have seen water eat parts up until properly treated.
The two size tools to stick with for normal installs is 1/2” and 3/4”. The 3/8” in my kit has never been used. The 1” is rarely used and the 1” parts are expensive. I have found it better to design my system using only 1/2” and 3/4”. When i need more flow i feed my manifolds from each end with 3/4” rather than 1” from one end.
The clasp pinch type kit would be ok if you are careful not to over or under tighten it. I think Apollo does that type.
Uponor is the heat stretch/shrink system. I have not used this one yet. I do know our supplier will not carry it because as part of the deal with Uponor they can not carry any other system. When we do repairs or remodels and come across pex we must make sure not to use any other system with the stretch system. I do not know if this has changed yet but that is what we were told a year ago. The plastics act differently so they can not share fitting type.
When we rough in slabs we use a grey pex with memory. It is made by Viega. It has a metal layer that retains shape. When we make connections inside we have a stripper that goes over the outer grey layer and the second metal layer and exposes the inner layer where the fitting crimps.
Here is one manifold i did last week. I fed the manifold on the cold side with 3/4”. It then runs to all my cold drops. After the last drop i feed it again with another full 3/4”. This ensures the water heater gets good flow and the second feed can back feed the manifold if needed to retain balanced flow. The grey pile near the slab is the memory pipe.   

[Jared Herzog]

I am going to go through the steps i use to set doors. This is very hard to teach someone without being with them. There are many steps which are hard to put into words. I will do my best to walk everyone through it. Please ask for clarification if needed.
I can not even begin to describe the pain i feel when i see a door thrown in with no care or concern for looks and function. Sometimes they are in so poorly that they do not even latch. Or so out of wack that the knob and lock are hard to use and snag.
Most of my doors are installed into a hole I framed. Having a properly sized hole and a level/plumb/square hole makes hanging a door much easier. On my current home i am framing it with my daughter. We did the whole frame just the two of us and my wife which included hanging all the beams. I was under no time constraint or budget on the framing so i opted to make my threshold for acceptability be 0-1/8” on everything. I did this because i wanted her to see the correct math and how to apply it. I used ratchet straps and come alongs to hold my walls exactly where i wanted them. This will make installing doors easy.
When you rough in a door (i will assume a 3’0” door for these purposes) you go 2” over the door size. So the rough in width is 3’ 2” or 38”. A 6’ patio door would be 6’2” wide or 74”. I have had some framers go 2 1/2” over because the holes are not square. This leaves a more difficult job as now you have to downsize the hole to center the door.
When i approach an install i check everything about the opening. Use the longest level you can fit. Some doors have bows in the frame that are not easily worked out with short levels. I prefer a 6’ level especially on 8’ doors but a 4’ is fine for setting doors. I check all four ends. If the floor is not level i must know so the reveal on the top is good and the threshold works. I check wall lean. If it leans in the door will want to open and stay partially open. If the wall leans back the door will want to either fully open or fully close. On interior doors there is no threshold but there is a reveal on the top that must be taken in to account. For today i will explain how to install an exterior door.
So i check the floor. The hinge side must be set up with a level floor or the hinge side must be the high side. If it is the low side raise it now before attaching the hinges. This is where most people mess up and by the time they realize it the door is done and they must start over. I set doors with two people for speed and less complexity.
I dry fit the door to get a general idea of what is needed. Then i remove the door and silicone the threshold to the floor.  Do not use liquid nails or any other adhesive that makes it hard or impossible to remove it later. Silicone is pliable once cured. Place a level on the frame hinge side and starting at the top install a 3” screw. This holds the door in place now. Check all door to frame gaps now. If they are close proceed. Add one screw near the hinge on the outside for the second and third hinge. Now raise the knob side if needed to properly gap the top between the door and frame. Hold the frame in position on the wall and put one screw on the top corner side outside first. Then make sure the door properly touches the exterior door frame gasket and attach the remaining two exterior screws. Check door for function and clearance now.
There are five wedge points on a hinge side. These five points can be used to move and adjust a door. They are top corner, hinge one, hinge two, hinge three, and threshold. 
Top corner: use this to pull or push the top.
Hinges all three: these can be wedged to push a door towards the knob side or a screw can be added in place of a hinge screw to pull the door over.
Threshold: you can shim one end or the other to adjust reveals here. Most thresholds are made with a sweep adjustment. Once the door is fully set remove the covers and expose the adjustment screw. This raises or lowers the top of the threshold. Ideally you want the sweep to contact the threshold in such a way as to get a good seal. Too loose and air and insects get in. Too tight and the door is hard to swing and the threshold will prematurely wear out.
A shim placed anywhere else on the hinge side only serves to move the immediate area.
I always remove at least one screw per hinge. I remove the one with the most grab on a stud and replace it with a like colored 3”-4” screw for strength.
On the knob side any shimming only acts locally unless at the top or bottom corner where the threshold or top can force the door to move.
If i like the door i then finish fastening the knob side. I use three more 3” screws mirroring the ones used outside. Use shims to keep the screws from pulling the door and opening up the reveal.
I have seen many improperly installed dead bolts. I like to use screws to grab framing so the door is secure. The rod that extends from the lock must click and lock down. If the hole is too shallow the rod does not lock in the proper position and a flat tool can walk it back in and unlock the door.
I am a fan of jigs. I have jigs for everything. On my doors i use a 1/2” thick jig to simulate sheetrock thickness. This will place my frame into the room in the proper position for sheetrock.
Patio doors and french doors use the same techniques to install. They just have an extra hinge side to adjust. I have stopped installing french doors on my personal homes.  They are not secure as shipped. You can press the door at the top and bottom on the knob side to reveal the keeper of the fixed side. A screw driver then lifts the stops and the door swings in with the deadbolt still in the locked position. Two of my homes have been broken into this way. We ended up putting floor pins in to keep this from happening.  I also like to install reinforcement in the form of metal straps placed between the frame and wall or placed on the outside of the stud under the sheetrock. Anything added to make it take longer to kick in is a good thing. It buys you more time to prepare for an intruder.
It is important to make sure the door works with flooring and is not a trip hazard so sill plates are removed before doors go in.
I know i have probably left more questions than i answered. The variables are many when setting doors and you just take your time and work through them. So please if anyone wants to add anything please do. If there are questions or if clarification is needed please ask.
Here is a photo of my rear door installed. There is a strap near the lock to help make it a bit more secure. The lock is only the construction lock.

[Jared Herzog]

Jared... welcome to the forum

My advice is to not have any real goal here in this forum. What will happen is topic deviation, due to assorted causes. It's just a matter of time.

Since your the oracle I do have a question. Any thoughts on why Tyvek prints their name all over EVERYTHING that will be covered up?

I just once want to see a house wrapped that says "this side out"

I invite all forms of conversation including all deviations from the material currently discussed. I think tyvek printed their name everywhere so they could see my head explode when i drive around and see it upside down.  If that was not bad enough now the retailers have their name all over it as well. Mine reads Lowes about every 12” also.

[TexasRedNeck]

good stuff Jared.  thanks for sharing.

[Jared Herzog]

I found a good chart on the pex universe website describing the three different types. From the look of it i am using type b and should keep doing so.

[OldKooT]

Interesting reading....ty

I found with my door install it went much simpler one I started "machining" my framing lumber. My home is built of Fir... if you try to use modern pine while remodeling it ends poorly. The shrink/swell rates are much different.

You couldn't give me a modern "pine" home.

Interesting trivia: I have enough reclaimed oak/fir/white pine/ash in my lumber racks to build a 2800sq ft home. This includes 3/4 x10" tong n groove planks for the outside walls/roof. Oak/maple hard wood flooring....main floor joists (3x12) you name it. Between all that wood, the pella windows, copper pipe, and about 40 oak doors I have $1700 invested. I figure since I can dig my own hole for the foundation...I should be able to build it for $30k.  If I ever get the ambition and time LoL

[Jared Herzog]

You are fortunate to have access to such great materials. I would be tempted to find the time just to see something like that get built and last way into the future when we are all gone.
I have a large surplus of materials since i use to keep all the leftovers from jobs to carry forward to the next. Before i knew it i had forgotten what i had. I inventoried most of it when i sold my home and am using it on my new home to cut costs. I have since gone to a keep nothing policy and return what i can. What i can not use i give to friends and family to use.

[KensAuto]

Wow Jared, you have great timing. I'm helping my brother install doors next weekend, 5 exterior and a truck load of interior. I've done a couple in the past, but you laid it out in a way that should help greatly Thank you.

We are doing all copper in his house, no pex. Call us old school, but the idea of all those crimp connections, (along with using plastic in Az) makes me feel like J. Comey...all queasy.

Sidenote: had a professional plumber (30+years), and a good friend, replace the shower mixer that failed in my old casa recently. He doesn't ever use o-ring, Sharkbite style fittings for copper or pex. He said the o-rings can, and will, fail eventually. Mine was right at 10 years old and was starting to leak....I had installed a high dollar Kohler and used Sharkbite fittings on a couple lines.

[Jared Herzog]

Copper is great. We still use it at the customers request. The issue is with its quality. It is not like it use to be. It is thinner than the stuff from 20 years ago. It has also gotten very expensive. I find that i have to shape it to get it round again.
One good quality that is rarely talked about with copper is that the fittings go on the outside of the pipe. This allows for greater flow than any of the pex fittings i have seen which go in the pipe and choke flow.
Just make sure it does not touch different metals especially galvanized pipe. Also make sure it does not contact any rebar in the slab. When we run copper in concrete i use utility sleeve to protect it. It is the heavy low pressure black stuff you see run on ranches for troughs and drip irrigation systems and such. No rebar can reach it now and it is safe from the concrete and rebar guys. Then if it pops a leak you can see which conduit it is in and pull another piece of copper through.
We had one house with a metal roof get hit by lightning. It actually caused the solder joints to start leaking. Almost as if the solder melted. I have always wondered exactly what happened before it failed. But, lightning messes stuff up and pex would be damaged as well.  It was just an odd situation.
I use sharkbite o ring fittings for emergency repair work. The type of repair where i do not have my tools and need the water on right away. I come back and remove the sharkbite and pinch another pipe or fitting in.
Thinking about it i can remember why i switched to pex. No salvage value. I had two spec homes going in in New Braunfels and there was a crime wave. This was in 05 ish. The thieves would rip the copper out the night after it was installed. Right before rebar went in. I had to switch to pex so they would leave it alone. The black utility sleeve may have hid it but i could not risk it.

[KensAuto]

Yeah, copper thieves were really bad around here a few years back, when new construction was hot and heavy. Some were hooking trucks to service panels and ripping out the underground power feeds from the transformers, not to mention the plumbing. The police got together with the salvage yards and got them to start documenting scrap copper. If you go there now, better have a fake ID and a great story as to how you came up with 5 wheelbarrows full of #002 cable with the insulation burned off! lol

[TexasRedNeck]

well in Dallas some thieves got burned (literally) when they tried to steal some live wire

[Jared Herzog]

 Not sure what to say. I hate thieves but that is terrible. Thinning the gene pool.

[OldKooT]

I will agree quality thick copper is not as easy to buy as it use to be. I got lucky, a local city tore down a old school. I bought the gym floor and the copper boiler pluming for $300. I have been using that stash for 10 years now and haven't hardly dented it LoL

[TexasRedNeck]

Norm, you been featured on an episode of “Hoarders” yet?? :stickpoke


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[OldKooT]

No TRN.... much like they won't allow me on Naked and Afraid because.... skills =P

[KensAuto]

^^^^Oh boy.

I'm waiting for American Pickers to show up. I have a feeling they would need counciling afterwards!

[Flyin6]

I see Norms place as a kind of Sanford and son setup.

Norm always trying to do the right thing and a lot of loud complaining and of course thousands of square feet covered in junk!

I mean that boy has everything under the sun. Wouldn't be surprised is when he removes some pile of wood, he finds another crew cab dodge sitting there!

[JR]

I had a buddy in Santa Rosa who had stuff like Norm. Mostly outside but I could walk for hours looking for vehicles and parts. Alway bought everyone lunch and nothing but cash.                                 

[Jared Herzog]

I thought i would take a second to write about a couple of items that would be helpful to those doing construction. Recently we got a job to help finish a home another builder had started and semi abandoned. The home is about 6000 ft and custom. I had forgotten how helpful a couple of my tricks are that this home does not have.
1) BEFORE sheetrock go around each wall and make a pencil/sharpie mark on the floor to show all hazards. Then mark each and every stud. If the home is going to have stained concrete where marks can not be made do them in such a way that the trim will hide them. This makes installing cabinets and trim MUCH faster and easier. There is no guessing where studs are and no damage to wiring or plumbing. After sheetrock/tape/float/and paint transfer the marks to the wall but under where the trim will be. If the room gets carpet just leave them on the floor. This makes doing trim exponentially faster and the trim holds better when nailed to the studs. This particular home has 5/8” sheetrock on all walls and most are insulated. This makes the use of a stud finder more difficult and inaccurate. Right before insulation and sheetrock video tape the entire home. This along with your marks will help locate any boxes that the sheet rockers fail to cut out when hanging the drywall. 
2) Do not use compression type shutoff valves for plumbing fixtures. If the stub outs are too short and a valve needs to be replaced you will be doing demo of the cabinet or wall to get to the pipe to add another valve. Once a compression ring is pressed on it will no longer slide off the pipe. What i do is use 1/2” male adaptors soldered on. This makes it easy to install a brass cap to pressure test then just screw on the valve after walls are painted. If it ever fails just unscrew it and add another. 

[JR]

Good ideas. Did that on my add on with the studs plus I had wiring that were in other spots. All marked. Blue/green tape on the floor works good to and you can write on it so no floor issues.

[OldKooT]

I always predrill and use loose fitting nails for base trim because the person who built our home used 5" long structural nails to hold on the trim. He's lucky he's already dead....

[TexasRedNeck]

When using that wide butyl tape to flash windows be extra careful and don't let ANY of the butyl tape touch its self.........

It instantly welds itself to itself....

Don't ask me how I know.....

[KensAuto]

I found that out also ^^. We must have wasted 10 feet of that crap.

[Jared Herzog]

If you ever want better adhesion of window tape to window tape or window to tape use a heat gun. 
This house we are doing is a mess without any markings or photos of any kind. The builder skipped ceiling boxes, light boxes, no care or concern for a quality build.

[Flyin6]

I'm thinking of capturing these pearls and putting them in a sticky

Who's moddin' this area?

[JR]

Jared, Adding 1 inch foil backed foam to a wall that gets lots of direct summer heat. Wall is standard 2x4 and will have roxul r15 batt for insulation.

Plan on spacing the wall out for the 1in foam as not to compress the roxul. Foil side goes out vs in like on a roof?

[Jared Herzog]

JR, yes the foil faces out when installed on a wall. Your project is looking great. I do not know the science behind this but would imagine on a roof that the foil facing out would make for a very slippery surface. Years ago, when the manufacturers started adding this shield to roof decks, i read about why the foil faces in on an attic and there was another reason discussed. Now you have me curious also. I will look it up. Great question.

[Jared Herzog]

JR, i looked this up and am seeing different answers. The foam board we have installed always had two foil sides. The side with the writing was more reflective and went out. On roofing the foil faces in because the foil is more effective when facing an air space and is installed in such a way as to minimize dust staying on it. When installed on a wall neither side has a better air space as it will touch either insulation or siding/facade. With the foil facing out any condensation that forms on the foil layer could be weatherproofed to shed water out. Whereas if that layer was facing in waterproofing would be a bit more difficult.
Does the manufacturer of the product you have chosen have a specific installation procedure?
Does anyone else know the best way to install the product?

[Jared Herzog]

JR, i think i am turned around. Your home and addition has siding on if i remember correctly. Is the foam going on the inside of the wall under the sheetrock? If so i would face the reflective side out. You will need to make sure the sheetrock screws to wood and not the foam as the screw will be difficult to keep hidden under joint compound. The material would pop off of the head exposing the screw on a finished wall. It is not a hard enough surface between the sheetrock and stud wall.
There are other products that look like reflective foil bubble wrap that might be better suited for an installation between the sheetrock and wood stud. Just make sure that the product you use can be installed in the manner you want to install it.

[TexasRedNeck]

My understanding is that the foil is only effective if it does not touch anything. It blocks radiation but is still conductive. If anything is touching it, like insulation then it’s better just to use plain foam.  It must have an air space to keep the radiation from transmitting


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