Author Topic: Topic: 2002 Suburban 2500 build thread, Part 4 (Read 52790 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #550 on:** July 30, 2020, 05:24:12 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 30, 2020, 03:06:36 PM

Now theres an idea that doesn't break the bank. Not cheap, but doable.

Now, what about the overheating issue?

I purchased a generic fan controller. That kit supplied by LS1 Trucks just does not work. Over and over it just keeps popping the circuit breakers.

The new controller just arrived. It goes on pdq. Then I drive it to see if the fan motors are working properly. But in all instances before when the fans were working the temp was good. Hopefully that will cure that

Second issue: The chinaman throttle body is a mess. It whistles and howls and roars. I am told it is due to improperly machined idle air passages. I just ordered a new Edelbrock TB to fix that

When she is up and running well, I'll have the 37" tires mounted and it will be completed in its new configuration, well sort of

Next, I am going to have it dynoed, then take that dyno sheet to John at SS transmissions so he can have a billet 3 disc converter built for the truck. While the trans is out, he will rebuild it even though it doesn't need it and get that zero-timed.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #551 on:** July 30, 2020, 07:05:26 PM »

Your $20k number is silly soft. I added about $37k.

All I ever wanted was a Smokey tire burnout video and I still don’t have it!!!!
I’m going to start burning down court houses

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #552 on:** July 30, 2020, 07:12:43 PM »

Maybe he can light the mulch on fire first,,,,,,,,,,,

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #553 on:** July 30, 2020, 09:15:10 PM »

Don did you get it dynoed to see where the tq curve is? Gear selection when towing is as much about keeping the tq in the right spot as anything. I’d start there and see if you can alter the ratio to lower rpms and put it in the fat part of the curve at 70mph

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #554 on:** August 01, 2020, 09:28:52 AM »

Quote from: JR on July 30, 2020, 07:12:43 PM

Maybe he can light the mulch on fire first,,,,,,,,,,,

Did that for sure

Power company had to come out and redo the underground electricity feed to my house. BIG, BIG blue sparks!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #555 on:** August 01, 2020, 09:33:49 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2020, 09:15:10 PM

Don did you get it dynoed to see where the tq curve is? Gear selection when towing is as much about keeping the tq in the right spot as anything. I’d start there and see if you can alter the ratio to lower rpms and put it in the fat part of the curve at 70mph

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure did. Went over 500 RWTQ at just north of 2500 and stayed there until 5600.

Talked to Nick. We're going to drive it next week, tune some more, then do a pull or two. He wants to stick some more boost into it. Maybe with sorting out the transmission shifting program some more, then adding another 100 ft lbs will get it done.

Putting together solutions looks like, canning the blower and setting up twin turbos, or blower and tossing in a 408 or 427" short block. Figure 2 HP per inch, another 30-50 cu in and it really should solve my dilemma.

I might even take some weight out too. Have some thoughts about how to do that.

JR · « **Reply #556 on:** August 01, 2020, 01:50:12 PM »

Just think, you will be the best friend of every oil company. Yep, just don't throw $$$ at it, make it the best it can be. I don't see a bigger short block doing that.

Yes, weight AND drag are the biggest mileage killers. Load it up when traveling, lean it out around town. I don't do that, all my spares and tools are in the back. (which needs a good cleaning!)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #557 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:44:25 PM »

Quote from: JR on August 01, 2020, 01:50:12 PM

Just think, you will be the best friend of every oil company. Yep, just don't throw $$$ at it, make it the best it can be. I don't see a bigger short block doing that.

Yes, weight AND drag are the biggest mileage killers. Load it up when traveling, lean it out around town. I don't do that, all my spares and tools are in the back. (which needs a good cleaning!)

Copy that!
Coming up on a garage re-do
Included in the plans are a hoist to pull that roof tent up closer to the roof of my house.

That will get a few hundred pounds off the thing and lower the total drag number fo-sho
Also adding a two-post lift and maybe try and squeeze in a smaller mezzanine...

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #558 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:45:26 PM »

My calculations are that with 37s, 4.88s and a .75 final drive you are 2562 at 75mph which is right at max torque for your motor.

If you want lower rpms and still pull a lot of weight. Gotta go diesel.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #559 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:45:43 PM »

Wanted to add in a permanent battery tender that traveled along with me. I chose this "Genius" 5 amp unit.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #560 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:47:24 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on August 01, 2020, 05:45:26 PM

My calculations are that with 37s, 4.88s and a .75 final drive you are 2562 at 75mph which is right at max torque for your motor.

If you want lower rpms and still pull a lot of weight. Gotta go diesel.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm gonna live with it, that is after another round of mods which will include a freshened 4L80, billet converter, different supercharger pulley, new throttle body, maybe another cam change, but likely not until the bigger short block, and some dyno time.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #561 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:48:53 PM »

I noticed these two nailhead studs just hanging around and decided to fashion up a bracket that would slide onto them and could be lifted out if needed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #562 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:49:52 PM »

And that captures the battery minder/charger

Flyin6 · « **Reply #563 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:50:38 PM »

The plug stores for now in a bumper recess made for rock lights which I have never installed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #564 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:55:03 PM »

So next I got after the constant cooling system failures. The fan assembly and harness I got from "Just Chevy Trucks" has been a problem from day one. I can't say for certain why the thing is so unreliable, but it has caused me to pull off the road several times now and wait until the truck cooled with time, then make a sprint to get up to speed and let the slipstream carry me home and provide cooling. The circuit breakers are forever popping and it will happen in stop or go traffic, at the Micky-D's line awaiting my morning quoffee, and places like that.

I will be replacing it with a high quality fan controller made by Davies Craig of Australia

Flyin6 · « **Reply #565 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:56:07 PM »

So, out with the old control unit that only worked when I didn't need it!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #566 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:58:31 PM »

Funny, when I ripped it out, both circuit breakers had popped again!

So I made another bracket from some angle aluminum and affixed it to the side of the electrical circuit center and fastened it with plastic push locks.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #567 on:** August 01, 2020, 05:59:24 PM »

I created my own electrical harness from a kit left over from the SquareD sort of build.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #568 on:** August 01, 2020, 06:02:53 PM »

I still have to loom everything up, but I am awaiting the arrival of my new throttle body before I call all that business done.

I set the fan relay temp to 190, started the engine and allowed it to climb to temp. The instant the motor hit 190, the first fan kicked on, and not slow, but helicopter rotor system-on! ten seconds later the second fan started. In about 20 seconds the temp fell into the 170's and the fans cycled off! WHOA! That thing works!

JR · « **Reply #569 on:** August 01, 2020, 06:12:15 PM »

Think I am going to add a solar panel to my truck. Just like a tender, but no plugging it in!

I got a 12v fridge that keeps shutting off, truck starts fine though.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #570 on:** August 02, 2020, 10:39:41 AM »

Quote from: JR on August 01, 2020, 06:12:15 PM

Think I am going to add a solar panel to my truck. Just like a tender, but no plugging it in!

I got a 12v fridge that keeps shutting off, truck starts fine though.

I have a small 5W solar panel mounted on top of the dash in the D-Max truck. Keeps things nice and topped off

JR · « **Reply #571 on:** August 02, 2020, 01:25:51 PM »

Thinking of something around 50-100 on the shell. The newer flexible ones are nice, have a couple 30watt panels already.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #572 on:** August 02, 2020, 07:22:14 PM »

Well, got the thing all loomed up today. Can't figure out where to get an AC on reference signal just yet. The two wires that were spliced into the ecm are dead for some reason, but the AC is operation marvelously. I'll just run it as is for now, seems to be functioning well.

Still haven't reinstalled the intake tube. Waiting on the new TB to show.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #573 on:** August 02, 2020, 07:25:30 PM »

Then for some unknown reason, the electric steps stopped working. I unplugged everything, then plugged it back together and I'm back up and running once again.

I am now decluttering the thing some. The weight is way up as we all know and some things like the electric/battery distribution is a bit busy. So I decided to clean that way up over its modified state.

First step was to remove that heavy stainless battery box from its perch above the rear axle and chuck the box. I won't be reusing it.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #574 on:** August 02, 2020, 07:27:58 PM »

I removed a long, extra hot lead, and rerouted the main cable and placed the battery into the drawer thing I built some years ago in the rear of the burb

Flyin6 · « **Reply #575 on:** August 02, 2020, 07:28:44 PM »

And a quick check of things up front and I am happy to report everything is operating as it should

JR · « **Reply #576 on:** August 13, 2020, 03:31:54 PM »

Just mount a flexible solar panel up top and never worry about plugging it in.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #577 on:** August 14, 2020, 11:50:29 AM »

Finally got rid of the noisy Chinaman throttle body and replaced with an Edelbrock piece.

Notice the milling for the idle air bleed between the two. Chinese (black) was so noisy it was ridiculous.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #578 on:** August 14, 2020, 11:52:08 AM »

It went right on like it was meant to reside on that blower snout.

After some driving the engine settled right in with its new companion.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #579 on:** August 14, 2020, 11:59:03 AM »

I drove it over to have the 37" Kanati trail Hog tires installed. That went well, but on the drive back the temp gage started to soar again!!!!!!!

I am getting a little tired of messing with this cooling system. Now here's the weird part. The gage cluster showed the water temp over 240F. But when I opened the hood and saw the reading on the fan controller, it said 198F.

I turned it all off, waited a few minutes then switched it back on. Water temp gage now over near 260F (engine off) but the fan controller showing like 203F

So who is correct???

Then the fan controller kicked on one fan...and then the second fan DID NOT COME ON

What the fark! You tellin' me this fan controller has failed too?

So here's what I did to correct so far. I ordered the parts to convert the fan controller sensor to be a direct fluid contact probe, changing from the temp sensor that is shoved into the radiator fins.

And I purchased a Flowmaster series super 50 muffla'

More on that later, but I am now honing this thing getting it ever closer to what I want it to be, a little bit at a time. The current Magnaflow muffla, although their largest, is still too noisy.

rpar86 · « **Reply #580 on:** August 14, 2020, 01:53:03 PM »

Don, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #581 on:** August 14, 2020, 03:31:55 PM »

Yep. Get a mechanical auto meter gauge and use that as a baseline

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #582 on:** August 14, 2020, 05:58:36 PM »

Quote from: rpar86 on August 14, 2020, 01:53:03 PM

Don, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.

Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?

I have long suspected it

When Nick was tuning the truck, he noted that within minutes the gage marched right up to 210 and stayed there no matter what. He checked it against ECM coolant temp and found it to be way off.

I think I may just install a mechanical gage, and rely on the digital fan controller until then, then during the winter send the cluster off for a rebuild while I install that new 427...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #583 on:** August 14, 2020, 05:59:43 PM »

I think this is the first time I actually washed the truck since I purchased it a couple years ago! It was dirty so I gave it the treatment

Flyin6 · « **Reply #584 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:02:11 PM »

I have developed a process for waxing my trucks over the past few years. After a good scrubbing and rince, I pull out the buffer, well, orbital and some meguiar's with a bit of wax added in.

I compound the entire thing out while its still wet, then rinse off the buffer residue panel by panel. I give it a good rinsing and wiping down, then usually leave it right there

Flyin6 · « **Reply #585 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:05:24 PM »

While its still dripping wet, I lay down some Armor-all on the vinyl, plastic, bedliner, and rubber surfaces and just allow it to sit.

This time I sprayed some Mothers ceramic water-rollin'-off in a hurry, stuff while the truck was still wet, then rinsed it again, and wiped it down with a towel. After spraying on the water dispersing stuff, there wasn't very much water to wipe off, frankly,

And I got a beautiful shine from this original 2002 Chevrolet factory paint.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #586 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:08:22 PM »

To the tires. I am really diggin' these Kanati 37" tires. They look right on the truck. They are practically inaudible compared to the earlier Cepeks they replaced, and I was happily surprised with the new gear spacing that makes that 4L80E work less, not more. The truck stays in 1st a bit longer, and second is where it needs to be. Anyway, the 37's with the 4.88's are perfect.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #587 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:10:05 PM »

Looks so much better and well sorted. It does not look to be lifted too high any more to me, but appropriate to that tire. The proportions look correct to me.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #588 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:11:26 PM »

Tomorrow the temp probe should arrive along with the quieter Flowmaster 50 super series.

Little bit by little bit...

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #589 on:** August 14, 2020, 07:10:47 PM »

Looks better with the 37s and I don’t have an I told you so bone in my body. Nor do I have the time to go find that post in all the past posts.....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rpar86 · « **Reply #590 on:** August 14, 2020, 08:27:29 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 14, 2020, 05:58:36 PM

Quote from: rpar86 on August 14, 2020, 01:53:03 PM
Don, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.
Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?

I have long suspected it

When Nick was tuning the truck, he noted that within minutes the gage marched right up to 210 and stayed there no matter what. He checked it against ECM coolant temp and found it to be way off.

I think I may just install a mechanical gage, and rely on the digital fan controller until then, then during the winter send the cluster off for a rebuild while I install that new 427...

Yup the stepper motor is the little motor behind the needle that moves it up/down. Lots of people out there that can rebuild those clusters in their sleep for not too bad a price either. I think you’ve got a good plan goin. :thumb

My ONE critique looking at the pics is that the rear axle/wheel isn’t centered in the wheel well. But I guess when you lift something, unless you get a longer drive shaft, that is inevitable.

Bob Smith · « **Reply #591 on:** August 14, 2020, 10:56:57 PM »

The temp thing, I went through that with a 1984 Bronco. Kept taking it back to the dealer, they would ask if it got hot and I said no cause I paid attention to the gage and didn’t let it. He said, well it is only a gage, we can tweak the needle if that would make you feel better.

KensAuto · « **Reply #592 on:** August 15, 2020, 08:19:05 AM »

Definitely get that gauge sorted boss. Hopefully it's not working correctly. But if it is.....need to know for sure one way or another.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #593 on:** August 15, 2020, 09:46:59 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 15, 2020, 08:19:05 AM

Definitely get that gauge sorted boss. Hopefully it's not working correctly. But if it is.....need to know for sure one way or another.

Already on it Doc.

I think I'll just purchase the mechanical gages I need all at once, figure our where to place them and drive on

I remember that the truck was running great when the temp gage was headin' to the right, and no hint of "boiling over."

Flyin6 · « **Reply #594 on:** August 15, 2020, 09:53:09 AM »

Quote from: rpar86 on August 14, 2020, 08:27:29 PM

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 14, 2020, 05:58:36 PM
Quote from: rpar86 on August 14, 2020, 01:53:03 PM
Don, the stepper motors on the cluster are notorious for going bad. If you have a way to monitor the temp digitally (scan tool, etc) that may provide more insight.
Stepper motor? Do you mean the actual Temp gage?

I have long suspected it

When Nick was tuning the truck, he noted that within minutes the gage marched right up to 210 and stayed there no matter what. He checked it against ECM coolant temp and found it to be way off.

I think I may just install a mechanical gage, and rely on the digital fan controller until then, then during the winter send the cluster off for a rebuild while I install that new 427...
Yup the stepper motor is the little motor behind the needle that moves it up/down. Lots of people out there that can rebuild those clusters in their sleep for not too bad a price either. I think you’ve got a good plan goin. :thumb

My ONE critique looking at the pics is that the rear axle/wheel isn’t centered in the wheel well. But I guess when you lift something, unless you get a longer drive shaft, that is inevitable.

Ryan,

I have long noticed that, the forwardness of the wheel in the well. The only way I could possibly fix that would be to drill another spring pack hole further aft. Problem with that is the drilling of spring steel...nearly impossible

Another solution, and one I am considering is to have a custom spring pack built by Atlas or similar with that hole relocated to center the axle. As for needing another drive shaft, I doubt moving it aft one inch is going to matter at all. Now having said that, I kept the driveshaft out of Square D which was built from a 1.5 ton service truck core. The driveshaft guys had a pile of them they purchased brand new to cut down and install in all these 1,000 HO diesel trucks that are popping up. It has been on my mind to eventually get into that shaft in this truck. So we'll see. But for now the temp/cooling issue is on deck.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #595 on:** August 15, 2020, 09:55:55 AM »

Looking for some opinions here gents

Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?

Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #596 on:** August 15, 2020, 09:56:06 AM »

Sure is one of GMs better color choices. Looks really good Don

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

longball · « **Reply #597 on:** August 15, 2020, 11:16:11 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 15, 2020, 09:55:55 AM

Looking for some opinions here gents

Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?

Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on

Wheels are perfectly fine in my opinion.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

longball · « **Reply #598 on:** August 15, 2020, 11:18:47 AM »

Quote from: longball on August 15, 2020, 11:16:11 AM

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 15, 2020, 09:55:55 AM
Lookingz
for some opinions here gents

Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?

Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
Wheels are perfectly fine in my opinion. I had stepper motor problems in my 2001 1/2 ton. Gauges were forever acting up. I think in those years that was common.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

longball · « **Reply #599 on:** August 15, 2020, 11:19:43 AM »

Quote from: longball on August 15, 2020, 11:18:47 AM

Quote from: longball on August 15, 2020, 11:16:11 AM
Quote from: Flyin6 on August 15, 2020, 09:55:55 AM
Lookingz
for some opinions here gents

Are my wheels dated? I am not motivated by style for the most part, but do I have that right, or is there a better idea?

Looking at it, I may have too much of the mono-chromatic thing going on
Wheels are perfectly fine in my opinion. I had stepper motor problems in my 2001 1/2 ton. Gauges were forever acting up. I think in those years that was common.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk