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Topics - Dfarm01

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1
Tech/Electronics / nvgs
« on: May 05, 2019, 02:20:46 AM »
I don't see anyone talking about wizard eyes here. I'm sure that some folks have them. What do you guys use to play in the dark?

After lusting after a pvs14 for many years, the funds finally became available about a month ago so I found a deal on parts and built one. Tonight was only the second time I've been out for more than putting the chickens away.  I took my dog out to a park and walked around a bit. I think I'm going to bring a ball for the dog next time and try to play fetch with her. Lol



ETA: is there anything I can do to rotate the picture?  It is right when you click on it, and it's right on my phone. Lol

2
Some of you fine folks have seen my other thread about this.http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=2610.0

I figured I'd start one in here, because I'm getting work done,  plus I'm hoping that posting here helps me stay motivated.

My goal is to have this thing driving by June. I'm sick of it being in my garage, and having to rent a trailer when I need something moved.

I've reached a point where I don't know what to do so I'm putting it back together. This will probably bite me at some point, but I need to be making some kind of progress.

I'm sorry my first post in the build thread is a question, and I don't have many pics.  I'll try to get better about taking pics as I work.

I'm getting ready to set the body back down on the frame, but I'm using new body mounts from prothane.  The directions that came with the kit are either wrong or terrible, so I'm not really sure what goes where.

I'm hoping someone here is familiar with these and can point out where each one goes.

I'm thinking the tapered ones are for the cab and the thin ones go under the frame on those.  I have no idea where the other 4 go.  Any help is appreciated.

3
Tires, Wheels, and Suspension / 2001 suburban 2500 active suspension
« on: January 22, 2017, 11:51:14 PM »
Have any of you guys dealt with the "active" suspension system on these things?  I'm having trouble finding much good information about how to deactivate this system without having the suspension message in the dic. 


This truck has had a lift kit on it since before I got it, and as far as I know, the message has been on since the lift kit was installed.

 
There's a bit of info out there about using resistors in place of the shocks.  I ordered some of the resistors, but my truck doesn't seem to match the info that's out there.

The stuff I've read all said that the connectors at the shocks had 2 wires in them and to just stick the resistors between the two wires.  On my truck, the only connectors Iwas able to find near the shocks have 3 wires.  The Chilton manual I have is about useless in the wiring schematic department, so I wasn't able to figure it out that way either. 

Hopefully I'm just not finding the correct connectors, and I plan to look again, but I figured I'd ask the pros here as well.

Thanks for all the help!

4
I finally got my truck back in the garage, and got the 318 swapped for a 360 and got my transmission and transfer case installed. (Truck is/was a 74 dodge crew cab x200, 2wd/automatic.  Donor vehicle was an 86 w250 with a 360/manual trans.)

I ran Into a problem with the rear drive shaft.  My truck had a 2 piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing on a cross member toward the rear of the cab.  The donor truck had a one piece shaft.  The output for the rear on the t-case points straight at the pinion on the rear axle, but the cross member for the carrier bearing is in he way, and it looks like a one piece drive shaft would be about 8' long.  I originally planned to have the front section of the two piece drive shaft modified to fit but the carrier bearing is higher than the output on the t-case, so the drive shaft would go up then down to the axle.  The cross member that the carrier bearing bolts onto is riveted to the frame, which isn't a huge deal, but I think I want to keep a cross member in there, instead of cutting it out of the way.

I'm guessing that from the factory this truck would have used a divorced transfer case that bolted to that cross member.

Any tips or help would be appreciated, any pictures of running gear on converted or factory 4x4 crew cab dodge trucks of this vintage would be awesome. I'm a little over my head on this project, but that's what keeps it fun.  The suspension is all done, steering is done, and after I get driveshafts figured out, I'll be over the hump and back into areas that I'm more comfortable with.

Thanks!

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