Author Topic: Zombie Ford F-350 (Read 70210 times)

husker77c · « **Reply #200 on:** February 03, 2016, 01:56:03 PM »

I'm taking advantage of the 60* temps here in PA.

I got my boost leak fixed. Had an ill fitting clamp on the compressor outlet. A quick drive got me 18# of boost which is right where it should be in a stock configuration.

I moved on to mounting the rest of my gauges. I decided to make a fiberglass pod to sit on top of the dash.

I started by masking off anywhere I didn't want resin going.

Add plastic so it doesn't run

Then draw the rough outline of the size of the base.

Next is laying the resin and mat. I always seem to be off on the ratio of resin to hardener so it either dries before I get it layed up or takes forever to dry. I got it pretty close.

I pour some resin on the piece, brush it even then lay the mat on top of that. Then add more resin to soak into the mat and make sure all the edges stay down.

Then wait

After it dries pull it off the dash and remove as much tape as you can. Then cut on the line I made a few steps before.

Final bottom piece t will need some more trimming but it's close.

Now decision time. I can't decide if I want to use 2" PVC for the actual pods or if I want to cut a piece of wood and drill out the gauge holes. I'm leaning towards the wood that way I can add an indoor outdoor thermometer to the pod.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #201 on:** February 03, 2016, 04:23:27 PM »

That's looks like as many gauges and those death traps that Don flew!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #202 on:** February 03, 2016, 04:51:12 PM »

Yeah it's a bit obnoxious. I wish I could put them in the actual instrument bezel but I haven't figured out a way without a complete dash rebuild, which is not high on the priority list. None of the factory gauges work since the swap so it's all the basic needs to monitor.

The fuel gauge and speedometer are the only factory gauges that work and there's no way to put them down further below without blocking the fuel gauge or speedo.
This will work for now. But a full dash rebuild will come in the future.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KensAuto · « **Reply #203 on:** February 03, 2016, 05:32:06 PM »

Cool idea. Simple, check. Effective, check.

husker77c · « **Reply #204 on:** February 03, 2016, 06:19:08 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on February 03, 2016, 05:32:06 PM

Cool idea. Simple, check. Effective, check.

Thanks. I'll try to get it finished in the next day or two. Still have to wrap the whole thing in a t shirt and cover it with resin. Then paint it up and wire it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #205 on:** February 03, 2016, 09:31:04 PM »

Kinda like it so far...Watching you develop this idea...

husker77c · « **Reply #206 on:** February 08, 2016, 10:06:34 AM »

Had to put the gauge pod on hold to work on running gear before the rain.

Which way should this muffler go? Should the opening of the louvers face towards the front of the truck or the back?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #207 on:** February 08, 2016, 10:31:21 AM »

Quote from: husker77c on February 08, 2016, 10:06:34 AM

Had to put the gauge pod on hold to work on running gear before the rain.

Which way should this muffler go? Should the opening of the louvers face towards the front of the truck or the back?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya know, I have placed them facing either direction. When I pulled the thing off afterward, I couldn't see where one direction "Clogged" vs the other. If a muffla' has a directional arrow, OK, that's it, but if not...???

husker77c · « **Reply #208 on:** February 08, 2016, 01:50:46 PM »

I installed it just like the picture with the louver opening facing towards the back of the truck. A little googling and that was kind of the consensus. So I got the exhaust as done as it can be right now. It is sooooo much quieter with the muffler and a 4' straight pipe off the back of the muffler. It took some experimenting to get my heat and wire speed right when I welded up the few pieces I had to weld but I'm happy with it.

Now if I get the hole in the floor patched up you might be able to carry on a conversation in this beast.

Unfortunately though my front driveshaft isn't going to be long enough. So I'm going to have to plunk down the money to get it lengthened. The cardan joint needs rebuilt anyway but I was hoping I could use what I had to get me by until I went back to work. No such luck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #209 on:** February 27, 2016, 09:09:53 AM »

Well I worked on the truck a bit the last few days. I took a couple weeks off and got married so now that that whole situation is normalizing I found a little time to tie up more loose ends.

I had to pull the intake off to put a gasket on the intake horn that I forgot so I took the opportunity to do a little tuning of the AFC.

I removed the fuel plate, I will probably grind the stock plate to a more aggressive profile and re install but I'm going to run it without the plate for awhile till I can get around to that.

Also pulled the AFC apart and loosened some things and tightened some things to start turning up the fuel. From what I've read it's a painstaking process to get it all set just right so I marked down what I did, number of turns, etc so I can see if it went better or worse.

Once it warms up a bit I'm going to start it up and go for a drive to see where I'm at.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #210 on:** February 27, 2016, 09:30:26 AM »

Congrats on getting married. Marking down what you did is a good idea.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #211 on:** February 27, 2016, 09:56:12 AM »

Congrats- marriage is like your AFC, little changes and keep track of what you do and if something isn't working right.....FIX IT!

BobbyB · « **Reply #212 on:** February 27, 2016, 11:27:27 AM »

Congrats on getting married.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #213 on:** February 27, 2016, 11:48:54 AM »

Congratulations!

Marriage advice, since I am the "father time" about this place

Marriage is all about compromise...

You do all the compromising, all the time...and things will work out just fine! ;) ;)

stlaser · « **Reply #214 on:** February 27, 2016, 01:48:00 PM »

What he said ^^^^ Congrats!

cj7ox · « **Reply #215 on:** February 27, 2016, 01:55:43 PM »

Congrats! What BD said, is truth! That, and when in doubt, apologize. You may not know what for, but asking her will just make it worse. LOL!

Sammconn · « **Reply #216 on:** February 27, 2016, 02:15:09 PM »

Congrats. Big D is definitely right!

And the only two words that matter now...Yes Dear.

rpar86 · « **Reply #217 on:** February 27, 2016, 02:45:21 PM »

Something I've heard my in laws say a lot...

Dad: I'm the head...
Mom: I am the neck that turns the head!

husker77c · « **Reply #218 on:** February 27, 2016, 06:45:51 PM »

Thank you everyone. I will be sure to heed everyone's advice lol. It was a borderline shotgun wedding. We decided to do it right after New Years. My dads health is good and I'm still laid off so it worked out. Small ceremony in San Antonio right on the riverwalk.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cj7ox · « **Reply #219 on:** February 29, 2016, 08:59:44 AM »

Nice! Congrats, again!

husker77c · « **Reply #220 on:** February 29, 2016, 12:45:10 PM »

Well my "wife", still weird saying that lol, is in TX for work so I took the Ford out to fill it up with diesel and check my mods. It is a completely different truck. Builds 30#s of boost and runs like a scalded dog. If it was an auto I'd say it's close to keeping up with my 6.7. Crazy that a few tweaks can yield that kind of gain. My tune is pretty close to perfect too. A little black smoke when u get on it and a pretty good haze when it's pulling. From what I've read you want just a light haze when getting on it. Im Not going to mess with it anymore for now though. I need to concentrate on getting the hole in the floor patched up and getting it to be a livable truck instead of a project. Going to start driving it a lot more to figure out any bugs.

On a side note we had a bunch of fuel perks from groceries so I got 30 gallons for free. I had intentions on filling both tanks and putting some in bed mounted tank but since they shut me off at 30 gallons I'll save that for next time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BobbyB · « **Reply #221 on:** February 29, 2016, 12:49:09 PM »

How's the homemade gauge pod working out?

JR · « **Reply #222 on:** February 29, 2016, 01:55:23 PM »

Congrades on getting married, it will never be the same again,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Mine used to like toys, now she doesn't understand at all.

What is you setup? I am stating to get a few pieces based off Norms recommendations but like to hear others.

husker77c · « **Reply #223 on:** February 29, 2016, 04:23:47 PM »

Quote from: BobbyB on February 29, 2016, 12:49:09 PM

How's the homemade gauge pod working out?

I screwed it up. When I glued the pvc onto the fiberglass it ended up all crooked. I need some nail polish remover to remove them from the base and start over. That's one of my goals for the next few days, get the gauges wired up neatly and permanently installed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BobbyB · « **Reply #224 on:** February 29, 2016, 04:37:30 PM »

Quote from: husker77c on February 29, 2016, 04:23:47 PM

I screwed it up. When I glued the pvc onto the fiberglass it ended up all crooked. I need some nail polish remover to remove them from the base and start over. That's one of my goals for the next few days, get the gauges wired up neatly and permanently installed.

Yay projects.

husker77c · « **Reply #225 on:** February 29, 2016, 04:37:54 PM »

Quote from: JR on February 29, 2016, 01:55:23 PM

Congrades on getting married, it will never be the same again,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Mine used to like toys, now she doesn't understand at all.

What is you setup? I am stating to get a few pieces based off Norms recommendations but like to hear others.

What I've done so far is pull the fuel plate out and turn the smoke screw (pre boost fueling screw) in 3/4 of a turn. I also have a boost elbow and it's pretty close to being all the way in, fully in would essentially close the wastegate and would allow a few more pounds of boost but from what I've read that's not the best idea. As is pulling the fuel plate out can have some negative side effects as well. There is a pin inside the pump that can break off because of it. It's a rare occurrence from what I've read but can happen and it's a $1200 bill when it breaks.
I also slid the AFC fully forward.

I am planning on grinding my fuel plate to a 100 profile and reinstalling it. I'm also going to mess with the smoke screw to see if I can get the turbo lit a little sooner, it has a touch of lag. I will also play around with the star wheel to see what role that plays in this dance. I haven't been able to lock down an exact plan from researching online so I'm just going to learn as I go. I was hoping to find a recipe such as turn smoke screw X amount of turns and spin star wheel Y amount of turns etc but it's just not that simple I'm finding.

I will tell you the few things I've done is amazing. Truck pulls so much harder. Pulling the fuel plate and sliding the AFC is good for 100hp from what I've read and I would believe it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #226 on:** March 02, 2016, 09:28:43 AM »

Well I had a couple beautiful days so I started something that absolutely should have been put off till a later date lol. Paint

I started out just painting my mirrors black but I had some leftover spray paint from painting a rifle so I decided to see how it would look. Then went to lowes and picked up several more cans and figured what the heck I'll see what it looks like.

I've got some tiger striping from the spray paint but I was never going after the show truck look. It turned out decent I think.

I just think the louvers painted black stands out to much on the tan.
I thought about painting od green but nothing else is green. Not sure what I'm going to do about that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BobbyB · « **Reply #227 on:** March 02, 2016, 09:30:08 AM »

I like the black and tan scheme.

JR · « **Reply #228 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:38:04 AM »

100 hp would be good and Norm likes the S300 turbo better so it is all open.

Yep, tan is cool, different.

cj7ox · « **Reply #229 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:40:07 AM »

Looks good to me!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #230 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:50:37 AM »

Tan and black...X2 or X3 or ...

husker77c · « **Reply #231 on:** March 02, 2016, 01:30:39 PM »

Tan it is then.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #232 on:** March 02, 2016, 01:47:31 PM »

Quote from: JR on March 02, 2016, 10:38:04 AM

100 hp would be good and Norm likes the S300 turbo better so it is all open.

Yep, tan is cool, different.

S300 is a good turbo. Factory equipment on some Caterpillar engines so you could possibly find a wrecked truck and get a cheap upgrade if you have the patience. Or buy a new one. Or I believe a super B is an s300 that's been tuned up.

If I decide to get stupid with my truck I'm going to do an HT3B/HX35 twin setup. Towing twins is what it's sometimes referred to. Reliable and late model 6.7 type linear power. In all honesty though I don't see myself needing that anytime soon. I'm looking forward to taking the truck as it sits out on the pipeline ROW and see how it does. It has plenty of power now to run down the highway and as long as it can climb adequately that's all I need.

The next purchase for the truck will probably be some sort of locker for the rear end. Having to be pulled out of 6" of snow when my 4x4 was out is unacceptable for a truck with this intended purpose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #233 on:** March 02, 2016, 05:28:51 PM »

I was close to a HX35 but the 300 sounds better. Sounds like you have not touched the injectors at all.

I just wish someone made a better set of head bolts vs studs.

husker77c · « **Reply #234 on:** March 02, 2016, 06:26:14 PM »

Quote from: JR on March 02, 2016, 05:28:51 PM

I was close to a HX35 but the 300 sounds better. Sounds like you have not touched the injectors at all.

I just wish someone made a better set of head bolts vs studs.

HX35 turbo is good for up to 35ish psi then it starts to blow hot air. S300 should get you closer to 50#. 45-50 anyway. At that level from what I've read studs might be good insurance. With a properly torqued head and good gasket you should be able to run up to 40# with stock bolts. Anything over that and studs might be a good idea. It's just such a process to stud the engine. Having to machine parts for them to fit etc.

I was looking at studding but I'm just not gonna turn it up that much right now so I did the mighty diesel head bolts. And the only reason I did those was because they are the same price as factory cummins bolts and they are a touch stronger. If I get a garage put up this year I may pull the engine next winter and rebuild it and I will probably stud it then. But I'll also do fire rings and such.

My injectors are stock. I had them pop tested and flowed before I put them back in so I know they're good to go. They are the largest dodge put into an auto 12 valve and should be good to go for awhile.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #235 on:** March 02, 2016, 08:40:21 PM »

I thought going over 30 and you start looking at studs?

New 35s and 300s all start about $600 from what I am seeing. Finding used 35s is easy.

OldKooT · « **Reply #236 on:** March 03, 2016, 09:26:59 AM »

I run right around 45psi on "Patch" in sustained foot to the firewall running it will tag 48psi and puff a little antifreeze on the windshield. I usually find this a good time to lift off the throttle a bit and turn on the wipers.

So... given that engine has never had a head gasket and is North of 400k miles...I'd say head studs are not required unless you intend to run above 40psi for extended duration's. Those stretchy OEM cummins head bolts keep it sealed fine under 45psi in my trucks anyway.

husker77c · « **Reply #237 on:** March 03, 2016, 10:07:25 AM »

Quote from: JR on March 02, 2016, 08:40:21 PM

I thought going over 30 and you start looking at studs?

New 35s and 300s all start about $600 from what I am seeing. Finding used 35s is easy.

Yes a used 35 is a dime a dozen, lots of people changing them out for bigger turbos. They are also popular with the Mitsubishi 4G63 crowd for a larger replacement turbo for their cars.

Ive read about people running 60# on factory head bolts, Granted life span is severely shortened, and they don't live hundreds of thousands of miles at that level, but it just shows what is possible.

Quote from: OldKooT on March 03, 2016, 09:26:59 AM

I run right around 45psi on "Patch" in sustained foot to the firewall running it will tag 48psi and puff a little antifreeze on the windshield. I usually find this a good time to lift off the throttle a bit and turn on the wipers.

So... given that engine has never had a head gasket and is North of 400k miles...I'd say head studs are not required unless you intend to run above 40psi for extended duration's. Those stretchy OEM cummins head bolts keep it sealed fine under 45psi in my trucks anyway.

How many of those miles did you run 40+psi? Just curious of longevity. Do you have an S300?

OldKooT · « **Reply #238 on:** March 03, 2016, 10:34:51 AM »

Patch runs a modified (wheel n gated) OEM turbo. (62mm I think) It would have a S300 on it but I had this Turbo laying around off a different project so I tossed it on there long ago. As for miles... no clue, over 75K I am sure in it's present combination. The head gasket has leaked since the first day I put the Turbo on the truck. It only leaks coolant at full boost, and other than topping off the coolant on occasion if using it hard, I have seen no reason to change it.

I figure for a 400K+ engine I am not going to invest time/money in a head job when I have a few fresher engines laying around waiting for a home. That said it leaks no oil to speak of, has great compression and no blow by....so it may be in there a while yet LoL

JR · « **Reply #239 on:** March 03, 2016, 10:47:01 AM »

I have 2 oem turbos, neither with a WG. I thought about just doing the wheels but a S300w sounds better. Say keep it around 35psi and I will be good.

Extra motors laying around, must be nice.

husker77c · « **Reply #240 on:** March 03, 2016, 11:27:32 AM »

Quote from: JR on March 03, 2016, 10:47:01 AM

I have 2 oem turbos, neither with a WG. I thought about just doing the wheels but a S300w sounds better. Say keep it around 35psi and I will be good.

Extra motors laying around, must be nice.

No kidding on the spare engines.

I thought about building up the 35 but when u add up a new exhaust housing, upgraded wheel, and the machining to upgrade said wheel you're in it ~$600 already for gains that would still leave you needing more air when you upgrade injectors.

Your idea of holding back the s300 so it isn't working hard is by far the better plan, power wise and money wise. That leaves you a ton of headroom for bigger injectors, delivery valves etc in the future. And you won't run out of air with the bigger turbo. An S300 will get you into crazy power numbers. 500/1200 isn't out of the question on the high end with that turbo.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OldKooT · « **Reply #241 on:** March 03, 2016, 11:36:28 AM »

The 62MM S300 on my wife's Ramcharger runs and drives fine with the fuel set at 250HP or 450+ Then again it's also a $1700 Ball bearing turbo. But it's flexibility has always been impressive.

Keep in mind the P pump engines have a different taste in turbos than a VE size wise.

husker77c · « **Reply #242 on:** March 13, 2016, 06:05:05 PM »

I got a few more things done.

Sound deadened and sealed up the front doors and installed my new eBay door panels.

I also got the hole in the floor taken care of. Still have to put the transfer case shifter back in.

Also installed some new speakers in the front door. It's starting to be livable again and not a completely tore down truck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #243 on:** March 15, 2016, 10:33:22 AM »

Time for a fun project.

Bumper/bombproof tow hooks.

Mounts will be out of 1/2x4 flat bar with two 5/8" bolts holding it to the frame. I may add a third bolt in between but two grade 8 5/8 should be sufficient.

These will come through the front plate of the bumper and will be where I attach the shackles.

Then I will attach the 1/2x4 cross piece to the frame mounts kinda like this. Only on the bottom side. Then I will probably pick up a prefab winch plate to attach to the cross member.

I'm debating on what to use for the actual bumper. I've considered a piece of channel iron that I could wittle down and section to give it some bends or just getting some 3/16 plate and building it like Square D. It will be a lot better going that route but I've never done anything similar and the channel I think would be easier.

I also don't know what I'm going to eventually do for tires but in case I want to use Hummer tires I scored these on Craigslist. $25 for a set of rims with three bald tires. Had to pay $40 to get them dismounted but at least I have options. And for the price I couldn't pass it up. 16.5 wheels are getting hard to find.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #244 on:** March 17, 2016, 05:59:45 PM »

I got a little done on the winch bumper.

I decided that by the time I bought the bits and hole saws etc that I would need to drill the mounts that I would be money ahead to have a machine shop do it. I drop them off in the morning to have the holes punched.

The back mounts of the winch plate will go like this. I'm using the factory angle iron bumper mount as a stop for the winch to pull against. It should be sturdy enough. Grade 5 bolts are just for mock up. Once I know what I need I'll go get the grade 8s

Then I have some 4" angle iron going to cut a couple pieces of and run them from the mounts down to the plate kind of where my finger is curled in this pic. I'm going to weld the angle to the mount and bolt it to the plate. That way the whole mount will drop down from the bottom to add the winch easily (as easy as bench pressing a 100# over my head while simultaneously trying to line up bolts). Or if I need to replace the winch I don't have to take off the entire bumper.

I also got a quote on the 3/16 plate to finish it. $125 for the steel and I will have about $225 in materials and machine shop labor in it not including a winch obviously. That will wait till I go back to work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

husker77c · « **Reply #245 on:** March 22, 2016, 03:51:11 PM »

More progress. Slow but steady.

Got my mounts from the machine shop. They tigged in a sleeve for the shackle. It's speced for a 7/8" shackle. 6.5 ton working load limit on the standard and I think 8.5 ton on the alloy if I think I need more strength.

Bolted up

I also got the angle iron cut and drilled for the winch plate.

I have been having second thoughts though. I could just trim my bumper and stick the shackle mounts through the factory bumper and save quite a bit of time and money. I wouldn't have a winch, but I would have solid recovery points. I really want to build a bumper and brush guard to save the front end in the event of a deer impact or Prius attack. Grand scheme it's only a couple hundred bucks and if I don't do it now and I go back to work I won't get it done till next winter. Have to decide tonight though cause I need to get the plate tomorrow if I'm going to build. Decisions.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cj7ox · « **Reply #246 on:** March 22, 2016, 07:52:58 PM »

Build it! :D

JR · « **Reply #247 on:** March 23, 2016, 12:59:45 AM »

Quote from: cj7ox on March 22, 2016, 07:52:58 PM

Build it! :D

Ditto, do it now!!

Atkinsmatt · « **Reply #248 on:** March 23, 2016, 08:42:02 AM »

How long do you think it will take for you to say "I wish that I had a winch" if you don't do it now?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #249 on:** March 23, 2016, 08:44:12 AM »

^^^ Three wise men there

I'd take their counsel!