Well I can speculate. We were manning a checkpoint and providing SAR for a dogsled race. Our primary comms were sat phones. They did not work so good, not at all on the eve of these pics, and very sporadic the next two days. So I'd assume there is a lot of energy envolved.

Ok, here are a few shots from "up North".

Start with the selfie...



Part of our camp.

Supposed to be around 5 here, wait all this weather talk and it was a picture of a skillet filled with BACON!!!! Bacon make everthing better!

Well just got back from a trip up north. I had one of the best shows I've seen ever one night. I need to sift through them and I'll pop a few more up.

From what I've been led to believe, you and three buddies would be able to remove the bed fairly easily.

That is one thing that I found out too.
That the smart chargers are too dang smart.
There have been a couple times I've had to dig out an old one to get a 'bit' of charge on a battery for the smart charger to take over.
Good to see you have it sorted, and can't wait to see how the hubs turn out.

Now there is a must try it out. Thanks!

Welcome.

We lost another fine man last week across the pond.
Seen this and though how appropriate.

John 15:13

Greater love has no one than this: to lay down ones life for ones friends.

Rest easy Sgt. Doiron.

Man, that truck looks real good Kyle. You'll be happy with it.
Never thought to snap a pic of mine this weekend, it got it's annual bath...lol.
Not quite that bad, but it's sure showing its mileage on gravel compared to how yours looks.
I'll grab one tonight if I remember.

Do most saws have an similar oiling system?

Without knowing for sure I'd say some fasion of similar. Would be a similar drive set up I would think but I'm not sure if it would be the same. Not a lot of options for the different manufacturers to do the same job.
I've never had problems with my Stihl, best bet is to see if YouTube has anything.

Funny story about mine too.
A friend in town liked our old couch that we were selling.
he wanted to make a deal, so I said sure.
I got the saw and cash to boot. I was expecting to give the cash, not receive.

I've used up a bar and a lot of chains on it. It has been to all corners of the north in my sleigh or quad.
By far my favorite saw, just hope it doesn't come to an end like yours.

Good info here!

You boyz had me all konfuzed with front (Sam) going to rear (Nate) back to Sam...

But I hung in there.

I don't have a ton of faith in those wheel bearings especially with a setup like mine where I have slightly offset (to the outside) wheels and larger tires.  So far, so good, but I'm only at like 46,000 miles

That was one thing that stands out, the lifted and larger offset seems to load up the steering a lot.
I'm stock, and after all these years and miles, probably lower than stock, and this has probably maximized the life of my front end stuff.

Cleaned everything all up, reassembled the oiling system and saw enough to start it to test.
Well, I have oil again.



Finished up the assembly and put it away to return to the cabin.

I go through a fair bit of wood each year (3-4 cords), I'm no lumberjack, but I do spend a fair bit of time on the saw.

I have mixed feelings on this saw, it is very heavy compared to my Stihl 025, but I like the power.
My 025 is a bit cranky with temperature changes, but typically is my go to saw.
I think it is 2 1/2 to 3 pounds lighter, and at the end of the day that does matter.

The clutch is removed by unthreading, then the drive sprocket comes off with a roller bearing.

The drive gear for the oil pump is next to come off. This is one of the failure modes for the oiling system on these saws. Mine was still good, and indicated a possible blockage to the inlet side of the pump.



The pump drive and cover off. Oil pump is secured by this allen screw.



Here is the oil pump removed. A quick rotation of the drive gear pushed residual oil out, so pump appears good.

And a handful of random others.

An aside for anyone who is having troubles keeping axle seals, ie: blowing on a regular basis, check your diff vent.
On mine it is tucked away safely by the fuel fill hose, and likely is still on the NBS trucks.



This is the second and third time I've had seals go, but this time was both, so I checked my vent. It was clear, so may have just been that it was a lot of miles on them.

Here it is, dropped down to clean up. There was a bunch of dirt on and around it, but not plugged up.

New vs old wheel bearings. Clean up the spindle if you collect mud/dirt like I do, transfer the dust shield over to the new bearing and install.





I think I torqued the four bolts to 140 ft/lbs.
Then torqued the axle nut to 230 ft/lbs.

Installed the new pads and rotor and buttoned it all back up.

So on to the front, jack, support, pull wheel.
The caliper is removed, split in half and resting on the upper control arm, and rotor is off in this picture.



Here is the new and old rotor, and the other half of the front caliper.
This is why the fronts are being replaced.

So, first up break wheel nuts free, jack and support the rear axle.
Remove rear tire, and you're ready to begin.



Most likely you'll need to spray the rotor/hub mating point, as they'll be fused together with rusty goodness.
Let the PB Blaster soak while you remove the caliper, set on rear leaf, or if they are being replaced it could be removed.
If you have the annoying "clunking" sounds over bumps, it may be your caliper pins are worn. This is a common problem, and the re-pin kits I used did not last very long. I picked up remans for a very reasonable price a couple summers ago while on vacation in Ohio, and they are holding up well.
You can then begin trying to get the rotor off the hub. \this is where the hammers come into play. I smacked around over under etc to shock the rust free. Then used pry bars as a striking face for hitting outwards against, as the dust shield covers much of the rotor.



And here is the ugly proof of the required axle seal change.

Maybe consider replacing the wheel bearings as well while you have it all torn down????

Did one last fall. The other was on my list too. Just got to sort out all the pics and I'll be putting a few up.

I'm thinking to do the whole lot under this one thread.
Thoughts?
And if so we'll need to rename it to cover brakes, axle seals and wheel bearings.

So I managed to get a whole lot done today.
Did second axle seal and rear brake replacement.
Changed front rotors/pads and drivers front wheel bearing.
Rear diff oil change.
Power steering hose replacement and oil change.
And was done by 15:00 this afternoon.

Whew!   Needless to say I was busy.

So, at 296,xxx kms, 184,xxx miles my factory brakes have finally started to say we're done. I'm amazed how well they have stood up. Guess it shows I use the go pedal far more than the whoa pedal.
I've gathered all my parts I hope, and began the task tonight.

More to follow with pics through the weekend.

Have bad axle seals as well as it turns out, and one more wheel bearing to change, so I'm going to lump everything together as it all happens together.

The water/alcohol tank has this 1/4NPT outlet which I plugged up with the correct fitting

It seems you have some frame rust at the alchy tank that mustn't have been caught/coated on the frame prep. 
I'm sure you saw it as you took the picture or posted it and have plans for some more undercoating.
Looks like you are only a few short days...hours...from firing it up!
Press on and START IT for us all! :)

Well that will keep the not so properly fitting fender straighter than the welded one did!
And they'll look good. Using the same hardware for the Louvre vents?