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I'm having a hard time getting momentum going, I keep running into roadblocks. For example, I wanted to mount the aux fuel tank fuel level gage, but didn't have a cup, and I couldn't find a spot I liked to mount the thing.So I moved to the drivers door panel. The plywood I purchased a year ago for the project has warped slightly, but worst of all, it was too small a section to make a full panel! ERRRRRR>>>>I initially wanted to get the brake lines reinstalled, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to adapt the new 3/16" brake lines to the factory proportioning valve.I am holding to the plan to get the brakes working, the transmission showing a desire to move and the thing generally ready to pull onto a trailer, then take it to a specialist to get the engine sorted.
Quote from: Flyin6 on March 04, 2017, 07:56:22 PMI'm having a hard time getting momentum going, I keep running into roadblocks. For example, I wanted to mount the aux fuel tank fuel level gage, but didn't have a cup, and I couldn't find a spot I liked to mount the thing.So I moved to the drivers door panel. The plywood I purchased a year ago for the project has warped slightly, but worst of all, it was too small a section to make a full panel! ERRRRRR>>>>I initially wanted to get the brake lines reinstalled, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to adapt the new 3/16" brake lines to the factory proportioning valve.I am holding to the plan to get the brakes working, the transmission showing a desire to move and the thing generally ready to pull onto a trailer, then take it to a specialist to get the engine sorted.Don if you can wait until Monday I will send a list of everything you need
Realistically the dash could be last, or I guess would be if it was my project.
Quote from: wilsonphil on March 04, 2017, 11:06:03 PMQuote from: Flyin6 on March 04, 2017, 07:56:22 PMI'm having a hard time getting momentum going, I keep running into roadblocks. For example, I wanted to mount the aux fuel tank fuel level gage, but didn't have a cup, and I couldn't find a spot I liked to mount the thing.So I moved to the drivers door panel. The plywood I purchased a year ago for the project has warped slightly, but worst of all, it was too small a section to make a full panel! ERRRRRR>>>>I initially wanted to get the brake lines reinstalled, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to adapt the new 3/16" brake lines to the factory proportioning valve.I am holding to the plan to get the brakes working, the transmission showing a desire to move and the thing generally ready to pull onto a trailer, then take it to a specialist to get the engine sorted.Don if you can wait until Monday I will send a list of everything you needPhil,Great, I'll wait.And here is the power of this site. I don't have to experiment, when knowledgeable members abound!
Get one of these, or go to the parts house and sift through theirs with valve and line in hand. You have a flaring tool don't ya?https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-00048?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-k-tool-international&gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0_9bsXsOLA25fIqBvW3JIXtdbmYwj1PuTuMMilvu-GhoC5Vnw_wcB
On all my off road trucks I swap the lines & fittings to AN, it's just good insurance. If you blow a flex hose etc on the trail you can disconnect, pull a spare cap from the tool bag to isolate said line & keep on going with a three brake motion.......Being that this is supposed to be bug out vehicle it should get the same treatment, granted it may never get finished in time but that's not the point here now is it?
Quote from: stlaser on March 06, 2017, 09:48:36 PMOn all my off road trucks I swap the lines & fittings to AN, it's just good insurance. If you blow a flex hose etc on the trail you can disconnect, pull a spare cap from the tool bag to isolate said line & keep on going with a three brake motion.......Being that this is supposed to be bug out vehicle it should get the same treatment, granted it may never get finished in time but that's not the point here now is it? Not any more!If the end comes I think I'll just stand outside and get nuked like everyone else!
Hey Don, couple thingsI would go with the prop valve you have for the time being, you can always use the fittings even if you go to a different prop valve you can reuse the fittings, are you just going to convert those areas or the whole system down stream of the valve?Don't forget AN fittings are 37degree flare, ALSO remember the valve you installed for the rear is not a prop valve its a metering valve, there is a big difference so be aware of how you think and what it actually dose.For your IP PLEASE check the oblivious first, get some gauges and make sure you have good pressure AND flow going to the IP. Don't make your life more difficult than it already is. it took me a long time to get my RC correct but now I would have no problem jumping in and driving cross country or Alaska again.
Don, summit has some really cool push together type lines that might work well on that. You don't need high pressure, just fuel lines.I have some myself for the new coolers on the dmax.
I meant the fuel system you keep working on since D isn't up yet.Of course not big AN for your power brakes, unless you go air brakes!!
So, the shotgun will be mounted so when you open the door you can shoot it right WOuld work great for driving too, just crack the door and let go
Quote from: JR on March 16, 2017, 10:04:14 PMSo, the shotgun will be mounted so when you open the door you can shoot it right WOuld work great for driving too, just crack the door and let go Grab and goMuzzle fits into lower mountI'll cut an access into the elbow rest and create some apparatus to hold it in place. When the door is opened on exit one could simply pull it out to deploy...simple
I bet it runs too,,,,,,,,,
Lol well i am a cummins mechanic....i would hope so.I drive it everyday to work. Shes my baby.
Lol sorry Don.What going on with the Cummins? Does it run or it runs rough?
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.