REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Sammconn on May 19, 2015, 12:08:57 AM
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Just a teaser.
Spent the long weekend with the blue light sabre, grinders, welder and even some snow.
I need to upload the pics from my phone, so with any luck I'll be at them in the morning.
I can't say any of the aftermarket bumpers really turn my crank, they all stick out too far for my liking. So what's to come will show a very low profile, as my buddy called it, Urban Assault Bumper build. I too am an owner of HF 12000# Badlands winch, and am shoe horning it into a bumper that is probably only a couple inches deeper than the stocker.
Sorry, it's late, my back hurts and I am something tuckered out.
Yeah excuses excuses I know... 8)
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You know, Ive had a new winch ready bumper in my garage now for a year. As nice as it is, it does go WAY out and from the rear looks flimsy and is why I haven't mounted it. I was going to gusset it up, just never seem to get to it.
Looking forward to your pictures. Just priced a 4x6x250 wall tube for the "base" of my spartan bumpers.
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Added a finish poll in.
I figure I need the week to get it to the finishing point.
Still a lot to do.
I have 200 miles of the ugliest dirt road you can imagine that I cross to get out of the bush. I'm tied with how I want to do it and each has its merit.
So we'll see what yall think. Poll expires in 7 days.
Thanks for your .02.
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Just priced a 4x6x250 wall tube for the "base" of my spartan bumpers.
That is a serious chunk of steel!
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I went with bed liner black, depending on what bedliner.
Do not use epoxy...it gets hard and scratches easily. So far the Raptor liner is the best product I have found that one can spray. Having said that, it scratches so I almost voted to just paint the bumper and touchup as necessary because touchup on a 2-part urethane is a complicated and expensive proposition.
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2nd on the Raptor liner. Nylon bristle brush, soap and water, get someone else to do it, and your bumper will look about the same 10 years later as it did day one ;)
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Can't go wrong with Mr Raptor Liner, especially with 2 coats....rocks will just bounce off of it.
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So I awoke to this to start out my build...
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1508.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1508.jpg.html)
Started on mounts, 3 x 3 x 3/16 wall.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1509.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1509.jpg.html)
Pulled out tha blue light sabre and had this.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1511.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1511.jpg.html)
Cleaned them up, transfer punched, drilled and tapped to use stock mount holes.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1512.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1512.jpg.html)
And now I have a platform to work off.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1513.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1513.jpg.html)
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Being my daily driver, and my only way out of here in the spring, I wanted to maintain the stock bumper mounts as long as I can.
Something about driving around without a bumper that the LEOs don't like.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1514.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1514.jpg.html)
While looking at Don's build up, I had an Ah Ha moment, the flat plate to build off was my mounting solution.
Starting point to mock up winch clearances.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1517.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1517.jpg.html)
Layed out to cut.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1518.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1518.jpg.html)
Cut out, winch holes added.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1524.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1524.jpg.html)
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Bent the ends up about 14 degrees or so, and test the fit again.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1525.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1525.jpg.html)
Was happy with the fit and proceded to start the roller fairlead plate.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1526.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1526.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1527.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1527.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1528.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1528.jpg.html)
And setting in front to get the idea...
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1529.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1529.jpg.html)
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Just sharpen those edge up and run something down!!
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Well, we'll start off plumb.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1530.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1530.jpg.html)
Had some shackle points made up.
These turned out to be AR Plate, so they got scrapped, and mild steel made later.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1498.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1498.jpg.html)
I didn't do any templating at this point, just keeping the top level, all 1/4" plate thus far.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1532.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1532.jpg.html)
And that wrapped up day one.
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Test fit to have a look and come up with the next move.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1534.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1534.jpg.html)
Tried 40 degrees for the rake angle, sees to work.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1535.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1535.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1536.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1536.jpg.html)
Maintaining the stock-ish profile, I added on the lower 'wings'.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1537.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1537.jpg.html)
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Then completed the 1/4 plate lower vertical face.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1538.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1538.jpg.html)
In an effort to not warp everything all out of whack once done, I've elected to weld everything solid as I move along.
So far it's working, time will tell if it was right or not, and I'll regret it if I need to cut anything out to change.
Moving forward onto the raked back face, I've now switched to 3/16 plate.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1539.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1539.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1540.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1540.jpg.html)
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Somewhere in the last few pics day two ended, and we are now into yesterday afternoon.
I have reached the point where eyeballing will no longer work.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1541.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1541.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1543.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1543.jpg.html)
Transferring into steel now.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1549.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1549.jpg.html)
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And the last of this row all tacked in.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1550.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1550.jpg.html)
I clearly forgot to transfer a few last pics, but its all welded solid, and we'll see how it fits tonight.
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Good work
Reading this I'm having a deja-vu moment all over again!
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It's definitely trying...on the back...on the patience...well you understand.
Pushed on again tonight and have most of the welding done.
I have a dilemma, created by not wanting a fat lip bumper, I'm not sure what to do with the center portion. I've been in conversation with couple buddies and had suggestions to leave it open, hinge a lid, or extend the free spool handle. I'm scared of a hinged lid for a variety of reasons. Can't extend the free spool handle as it is beneath the grill. In these chats, had the idea of a 20 something inch light bar to fill and leave open in the rear for access to the handle. I was planning on two or four lights like Don and Ken have used, but with the real estate I now have, I am leaning to a pair of 7-8 inch bars if they can be found in a flush mount.
I'm open to thoughts and suggestions.
Will update some more pics tomorrow I hope.
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So here is the test fit after adding most of the upper steel.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1552.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1552.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1553.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1553.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1555.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1555.jpg.html)
Everything stayed straight and it fits pretty good!
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This is the space i still need to address.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1556.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1556.jpg.html)
And here is the dilemma with the free spool handle.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1559.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1559.jpg.html)
I think I'm leaning to the light bar, but it is going to seem 'unfinished' with the hole.
Just so I could see, right aroung 4 1/2 inches from the grill.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1557.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1557.jpg.html)
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Finishing up the top edge.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1558.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1558.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1560.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1560.jpg.html)
Now I've got a whole lot of grinding to do.
I plan on a lower skirt swept back at a 45 degree or so angle.
I'm going to be putting a receiver on the bottom as well.
That will come once I clean up the welds and see where I want stuff.
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It's definitely trying...on the back...on the patience...well you understand.
Pushed on again tonight and have most of the welding done.
I have a dilemma, created by not wanting a fat lip bumper, I'm not sure what to do with the center portion. I've been in conversation with couple buddies and had suggestions to leave it open, hinge a lid, or extend the free spool handle. I'm scared of a hinged lid for a variety of reasons. Can't extend the free spool handle as it is beneath the grill. In these chats, had the idea of a 20 something inch light bar to fill and leave open in the rear for access to the handle. I was planning on two or four lights like Don and Ken have used, but with the real estate I now have, I am leaning to a pair of 7-8 inch bars if they can be found in a flush mount.
I'm open to thoughts and suggestions.
Will update some more pics tomorrow I hope.
This perhaps:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1863.html
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I really like how the upper blends with the cab lines.
I say extend the handle but make the top bolt on so you can get to it with relative ease. Plus you may have to help the cable spooling clean after use and access is a must.
Good idea on the front receiver, but don't hang to much off the lower end (jmhi)
Are you going to reinforce the rear or box it in?
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I really like how the upper blends with the cab lines.
I say extend the handle but make the top bolt on so you can get to it with relative ease. Plus you may have to help the cable spooling clean after use and access is a must.
Good idea on the front receiver, but don't hang to much off the lower end (jmhi)
Are you going to reinforce the rear or box it in?
It was an adventure keeping it in line.
Turns out my weld it solid as I wen worked out for me.
Was talking with the guys at work this morning, the latest thought is to close it up flat to make a step of sorts.
I'll still have to extend the handle, but I completely forgot about a step.
Now with your mention of spooling issues, I may go flat, but bolt on for access.
The receiver will basically only be for pulling stuff onto the car hauler, not for a lot else.
As for the back side, I still plan on some gusset plates inside and a few other random reinforcements.
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It's definitely trying...on the back...on the patience...well you understand.
Pushed on again tonight and have most of the welding done.
I have a dilemma, created by not wanting a fat lip bumper, I'm not sure what to do with the center portion. I've been in conversation with couple buddies and had suggestions to leave it open, hinge a lid, or extend the free spool handle. I'm scared of a hinged lid for a variety of reasons. Can't extend the free spool handle as it is beneath the grill. In these chats, had the idea of a 20 something inch light bar to fill and leave open in the rear for access to the handle. I was planning on two or four lights like Don and Ken have used, but with the real estate I now have, I am leaning to a pair of 7-8 inch bars if they can be found in a flush mount.
I'm open to thoughts and suggestions.
Will update some more pics tomorrow I hope.
This perhaps:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1863.html
Yep! That would be what I'm after I think.
At least I know they're available, and can cut holes before I get to coatings.
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Talking about finishing at work also.
Color matched Line-X came up.
I'm not at all familiar with how close they can get so I'm a little on the fence with that.
Added option 6, change your mind if you need to.
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I voted painted because its much easier to touch up. What ever you put up there will get damaged in some way or fade. Paint is easy to touch up and keep looking good. Liner will look good for a while then after a few years be a real hassle to re-do or touch up.
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Well it's been a slow week on the bumper.
I'm building a cedar chest for one of my niece's graduation and it needs done soon.
I've been picking away at grinding the outside and fixing any voids that turn up.
While adding in some gusset plates I noticed that the cable was going to run on the lower roller all the time. I made up some 1" thick spacer plates to raise the whe winch.
Once I trial fit everything it became obvious that my free spool handle issue was no longer there. That inch put it above the plane of the open center portion.
I've since added in closures on the sides and flat plates to fix the cover to.
It will double as a step which I neglected to add in anywhere else.
Redneck, I believe I am going to start with paint for now. I'm not going to have time to do any bodywork to it at the moment so it's going to be a bit rough.
If I go with how the masses are voting it will end up with Raptor Liner on it. I don't have access to that here, and will have to pick up from the city.
It may turn out I like it and if that's the case I'll do it up right.
I need to have it on the truck when I head out next week to have an allignment done with the new heavier front end.
I have some updated pics to get posted up once I make time to sit.
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So at the moment I'm waiting on the base coat to flash for 30 mins and then on with the clear. All I can say is I wish I had a bit more time to do the body work on it. It looks real sharp in paint, here's hoping that it does match. Will know in the morrow.
I'm going to get the pics up tonight I hope as it's not that late yet, and I only need a couple shots of clear.
Going to check on the ice after. We may have water this week, and if so the bumper will be done just in time.
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Color match in regular paint or liner?
If the truck was red or something I think it would tacky, but silver should look good.
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So I'm working off my phone at the moment. So we'll see how this goes and if it annoys me too much. Have no wifi where I'm staying so the puter is not working.
So I began the grinding process to clean things up for my initial option of paint.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1561.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1561.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1562.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1562.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
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Then a pre-positioning of the winch to check clearances with the new spaced blocks.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1563.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1563.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1564.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1564.jpg.html)
Now the drum is up in the window of the rollers, and should not run exclusively on the lower roller.
Chief, not sure if you had caught this or not. I can't take credit, a buddy was over looking at things and made me aware. Without the inch riser the cable would have run every foot on the lower roller.
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(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1565.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1565.jpg.html)
And lookie here. The spacer fixed one of my other problems too!
Now the free spool handle is above the face plane and I can work with it.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1566.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1566.jpg.html)
The said spacer blocks.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1567.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1567.jpg.html)
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Added in some gusset plates.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1568.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1568.jpg.html)
Permanizing the spacer blocks and the mounts.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1572_1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1572_1.jpg.html)
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While I was at this I needed to look after another problem I had. My factory hitch was plain wore out and was replaced with a nice Curt unit.
I kept only two pieces from it. This one, and the trailer plug cutout plate.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1571.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1571.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1575.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1575.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1573.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1573.jpg.html)
And with that all of the 'major' pieces are present.
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So on to the first round of finishing.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1576.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1576.jpg.html)
A little polishing with a flap disc to remove grinder bites!
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1578.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1578.jpg.html)
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And on with the acid etching primer.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1579.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1579.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1580.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1580.jpg.html)
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The primer showed off all of the imperfections, and out came the bondo.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1581.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1581.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1582.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1582.jpg.html)
And sanded out.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1583.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1583.jpg.html)
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With that, it was on to finishing.
I started with the bottom and inside of the bumper.
They got several good coats of rubberized undercoating.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1584.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1584.jpg.html)
After about a half hour of dry time I laid it down and shot the first of four coats of paint.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1585.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1585.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1586.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1586.jpg.html)
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Added a whole lotta clear to it and let it sit for the night.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1587.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1587.jpg.html)
Come morning I had a buddy come over to give me a hand installing it.
I'd put the bumper sub 200# but I could be off. I could handle it fairly easily alone but didn't need to scuff the paint.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1594.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1594.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1595.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1595.jpg.html)
The ice is finally starting to go, this was early Sunday morning, by evening there was considerably more sinking and failing.
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Onto the wiring of the winch. I seem to have missed the connections at the bumper but it is all ran up through the core support and in under the hood.
This is the circuit breaker bank that comes with the Badlands winch.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1596.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1596.jpg.html)
Covering up the exposed bus bars and terminals with two layers of heavy heat shrink.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1597.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1597.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1598.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1598.jpg.html)
And all tied in to the battery.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1599.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1599.jpg.html)
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Well the winch works unloaded.
Snugged up onto a carribiner temporarily as I need to get a shackle.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1603.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1603.jpg.html)
The color worked out as a very close match.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1601.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1601.jpg.html)
I'm quite impressed for rattle can paint.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1600.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1600.jpg.html)
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And that's about it folks.
I drove out to the city today, and with the amount of bugs that have become a fixture I'll be switching over to Raptor liner or some variant. The paint didn't take the few stones that it met very well either.
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That looks great. Color, workmanship and time!!!
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Very nice job Sam, very nice.
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Very nice, another example of building a heavy duty bumper. Don and Kyle just might have to have another subsection showing off the bumper builds on here.
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Great work.
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Thanks guys.
It's been a very tiring couple weeks.
I intend on doing the rear as well, but am taking a break.
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That's nice work! Bringing back the art of building things in lieu of buying things. I like it for a variety of reasons. Unique, you own it from the start, strong, personalized, meets your needs, and you learned from building it.
Great job!
Oh, for a quality bumper like that consider these Warn premium clevis D rings
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Those are pretty awesome looking.
Will have to look into them.
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So I spent the week down south in the city.
It seems anyone that comes upon my truck is scared of it.
I had space where there normally wasn't, had people waving me on, steering out of the way. I had no idea the bumper would cause utter fear in some.
Now don't get me wrong, I am now wishing I'd have done this years ago.
Now my thought is do I want to make it black? Is it the color match that makes it stick out? Why are the all so scared of this "little" in comparison to some aftermarket bumpers?
Anybody else with some for of aftermarket bumpers have the same results?
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So I spent the week down south in the city.
It seems anyone that comes upon my truck is scared of it.
I had space where there normally wasn't, had people waving me on, steering out of the way. I had no idea the bumper would cause utter fear in some.
Now don't get me wrong, I am now wishing I'd have done this years ago.
Now my thought is do I want to make it black? Is it the color match that makes it stick out? Why are the all so scared of this "little" in comparison to some aftermarket bumpers?
Anybody else with some for of aftermarket bumpers have the same results?
Are your windows tinted
You sure it's the bumper they're worried about??
;-)
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No tint...
Hmmm, never thought of that, but never been like this before. :D
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Ok so I'm waiting for the lake to break up, so rear bumper here we come.
I have spent no time on a plan, so really going in blind. Plan is to match the front sort of.
Debating a rear winch provision, and will have the corner steps of the new rear stockers.
So off with the stock.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/30283206-341B-4B34-8476-7900FB034AF2.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/30283206-341B-4B34-8476-7900FB034AF2.jpg.html)
Man that hitch looks beefy from this angle.
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So I dug through the metal pile and found a 2' x 4' chunk of 1/4" plate. Seems like a good start, checked with the front and needed eight inches.
Zipped it off with the plasma, set it on the hitch and said well this is it...
Then found some 3/8" x 4" flat bar, and lopped two eight inch pieces for the mounts.
The blue light sabre made quick work of the 3/8.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/CD641BE5-186D-48F1-86C3-C48AEFB639B3.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/CD641BE5-186D-48F1-86C3-C48AEFB639B3.jpg.html)
So lined everything up square and straight and tacked the mounts in place.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/8727FBF2-FE2B-47B6-B43E-DFB6AE410187.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/8727FBF2-FE2B-47B6-B43E-DFB6AE410187.jpg.html)
Since I'm starting outside and mainly because I'm too lazy to switch I'm running flux core wire tonight.
Here's the final glue job for the bottom.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/FB62AED7-7CFD-4B8A-9541-3440536A1820.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/FB62AED7-7CFD-4B8A-9541-3440536A1820.jpg.html)
And with nine bells ringing and young kids next door I shall stop making noise for the night.
Bolted in place to start again in the am.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/0448C447-4039-4386-8EC5-26C3ACD131E8.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/0448C447-4039-4386-8EC5-26C3ACD131E8.jpg.html)
Hopefully it doesn't snow again...
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So with a new day upon me, I added in the end wings to see how things lined up.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/457AF69B-6993-45A8-AB0A-EB97212ACFBA.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/457AF69B-6993-45A8-AB0A-EB97212ACFBA.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/B3B42E43-F4D2-4F79-B930-232013203621.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/B3B42E43-F4D2-4F79-B930-232013203621.jpg.html)
This works as a start point.
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Then a lot of fussing and bending ended up like this.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/E7BBBBA1-87C2-4EAB-A0A5-213A49CF914C.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/E7BBBBA1-87C2-4EAB-A0A5-213A49CF914C.jpg.html)
Happy with how things were looking I added the corner steps in.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/BD1713DC-5E6E-41F8-A951-6F4330969D55.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/BD1713DC-5E6E-41F8-A951-6F4330969D55.jpg.html)
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Then a whole bunch of fitting, a consult from a buddy, it lost an inch off each end.
Fitted some angle iron to the contour if the quarter panel and test fit again.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/BBCEA4A6-6C5B-47B6-B3CD-1F1D751971E8.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/BBCEA4A6-6C5B-47B6-B3CD-1F1D751971E8.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/44D8D5FA-9EB8-4AFB-B02B-E339026785B6_1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/44D8D5FA-9EB8-4AFB-B02B-E339026785B6_1.jpg.html)
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Then boxed in the other side of the corner step.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/48AB9C56-A112-4587-B0FC-CEA86842F9B3_1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/48AB9C56-A112-4587-B0FC-CEA86842F9B3_1.jpg.html)
Finished out the side and test fit again.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/381D67AF-07A6-46BB-8CF5-E488C0BEB207_1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/381D67AF-07A6-46BB-8CF5-E488C0BEB207_1.jpg.html)
It's still surprisingly not too heavy, but the 50 odd times it's been off and on are starting to take their toll not to mention the hunched over welding.
Decided to sit down for a bit and have a break and a quoffee, and get these up.
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Looks fantastic
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Coming along very well.
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So by pure luck I remembered to put the shackle mounts in.
A whole lot further along and it would have sucked.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/013B37D3-0870-4C8E-BBFA-97D7C9A59158.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/013B37D3-0870-4C8E-BBFA-97D7C9A59158.jpg.html)
Then tied the skin to the frame mount.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/05861AF4-D965-407D-900B-8A682C2BCF91.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/05861AF4-D965-407D-900B-8A682C2BCF91.jpg.html)
Spent as long as my back could stitching seams together, and gave up for the day.
Made some good progress, but my back has spoken.
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Like the corner steps. What is the plan for the flat center?
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I've got some 1/2" od pipe, I'm going to make a roundover area with, then double up a second layer of 1/4 plate. May do the same in the corners too.
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I like how that sounds,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Man, you rocked that thing today. Looks great!
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Looking good!
You build some strong stuff!
Like the foot wells...
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Looks great! Nice work.
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Thanks guys. I may have pushed a bit too hard though. My back is a mess, I'll soldier through it but likely not to be as productive today. If only I had a metal chair...they don't catch fire.
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Nice and QUICK work there Sam! Try making a chair of cardboard and wood, seems to work for Don!
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Nice and QUICK work there Sam! Try making a chair of cardboard and wood, seems to work for Don!
It does...For awhile!
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So this morning I started out with getting a couple essentials cut in.
My goal was to retain the spare tire lock part, so with some careful measuring I blasted that hole in. I also had the premonition when I replaced my hitch to cut off the trailer plug plate. This was also cut into the centre section.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/336ABC3E-A681-443F-AC5C-EC738F34196C.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/336ABC3E-A681-443F-AC5C-EC738F34196C.jpg.html)
Given how light gauge that metal was, I knew it wouldn't worn in 1/4 plate so I was glad to have it.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/DE7863C4-749E-4371-81F0-BEAEB3B2354F.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/DE7863C4-749E-4371-81F0-BEAEB3B2354F.jpg.html)
Back on the truck again, and voila it lined up first time!
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/77E6CFF1-75EE-4FD2-98A6-9D9A6203935A.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/77E6CFF1-75EE-4FD2-98A6-9D9A6203935A.jpg.html)
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On to closing up the top side. Once the top is on, it will be a lot more difficult to do any mock ups as up to now I've been slipping the bolts in from the top. This is as close to templating I got on the rear bumper.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/03D7070A-545F-4B09-BF6D-65C13221EC04.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/03D7070A-545F-4B09-BF6D-65C13221EC04.jpg.html)
Once I cut the first side out, I checked it on the other, and to my surprise it fit, so I made another one. Semi permanized I fit in an upper bevel to try to eliminate the 'sharp' that would otherwise be.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/0A7EBA9E-1427-453C-BE88-E14C8FC0E59E.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/0A7EBA9E-1427-453C-BE88-E14C8FC0E59E.jpg.html)
I then joined the two wings with a centre piece of flat bar.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/6FF92216-8FE6-4E26-A3BD-18F9929C6154.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/6FF92216-8FE6-4E26-A3BD-18F9929C6154.jpg.html)
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I decided to move inside to do all of the seams. The wind was up and blowing the gas away. I switched back to gas this morning, flux core wire ain't cheap.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/C6EC03D0-747B-4157-AF2C-3A8D6143DD44.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/C6EC03D0-747B-4157-AF2C-3A8D6143DD44.jpg.html)
So a welding and a grinding I go...
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/6C84DF89-4571-4209-BF1D-DE5B4C8012AE.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/6C84DF89-4571-4209-BF1D-DE5B4C8012AE.jpg.html)
I broke down and started using a plastic chair. My back is almost spasming every time I bent down, so I thought heck if Don can get away with a cardboard welding table I should be ok on a plastic chair.
At this point I was finishing up all of the last welds on the back side.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/14BE5C42-54B1-47CC-A8C0-5057B6472029.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/14BE5C42-54B1-47CC-A8C0-5057B6472029.jpg.html)
Still have a bunch of little bits to close in the foot holds on the back side. Want them sealed up so as not to collect unnecessary mud.
And with that I'm calling it a night.
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Excelente ! (excellent in English :) )
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I like the shape and the attention to detail. Going quick too and I hate the wind for more reasons than just welding.
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Have you thought about raising your working surface to a height where you can stand vertical and not hunch over? I found years ago all the saw horses in the world were ten twelve inches to short. I am only 5'11" and a paint can was about the right height to add, or you fancy guys and welder a why not build a saw horse with adjustable legs ?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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That's looking great Sam... I myself use a portable adjustable work bench. Most people call it a skid loader LoL I swear it's greatest value around here is a work platform for welding heavy stuff and fitment.
I guess it's also handy for flipping trucks over which makes removing running gear simpler.
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That's funny Norm. I don't have to mobile work stand.
Dave, that's a really good idea, just not sure how I'd go about it.
Also there comes a point where you can't curl what you're working on.
Dead lift yes, curl no. None he less a good solid idea, and I'd agree on the 10" higher being about right.
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Skid loaders are great, I always used mine with forks to pull drivetrains and as a mobile welding bench. They kinda suck getting in and out of them with arms up but there are worse things I suppose. I always called it my 4 wheel drive forklift........
That's looking great Sam... I myself use a portable adjustable work bench. Most people call it a skid loader LoL I swear it's greatest value around here is a work platform for welding heavy stuff and fitment.
I guess it's also handy for flipping trucks over which makes removing running gear simpler.
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Looks like two inch square tube? Cut the ends off and make them adjustable like small jack stands ( the ghetto ones with holes that go through the middle) (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/185da9d872f7d386514fcda0bf5765ea.jpg) similar to this ?
A few holes and you would be able to change the working height depending on the project
Don could even build some out of cardboard and ductape I guess
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Nice attention to detail Sam. Looks good
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So I closed in the corner pockets around the rear of the steps. I figure they'd hold a lot of muck and crap so I pieced them shut.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/28D855E9-1005-4598-8370-B160C0B67E88.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/28D855E9-1005-4598-8370-B160C0B67E88.jpg.html)
Then it was time for one last fit check. I welded the whole thing at the end this time and was a bit worried about it as Ken remembers. Well whatever I did it worked out. Still fits the mounts, and still looks straight to me.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/2749AA57-DCB1-4294-AFCA-8577B03D488D.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/2749AA57-DCB1-4294-AFCA-8577B03D488D.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/27D64369-4F92-4970-98EE-5CC59E742E3C.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/27D64369-4F92-4970-98EE-5CC59E742E3C.jpg.html)
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I then built up the centre step section. Some 1/2" od pipe and another layer of plate.
I hope this works out, but will certainly ease banging shins and knees.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/8A808058-937D-43FC-88CD-A9441DCBBE0E.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/8A808058-937D-43FC-88CD-A9441DCBBE0E.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/435B175B-1168-4FEF-9A7E-82C010B4AFBD.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/435B175B-1168-4FEF-9A7E-82C010B4AFBD.jpg.html)
And with that last piece added, the build portion was done. I still think I'll add some diagonal braces back to the frame, but at the moment am thinking they will be a bolt on for ease of installation and removal.
Then the arduous task of cleaning it up began.
Still have another night on the grinder I think or part of anyhoot.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/4D549A9F-F1BD-4E00-A6D8-0B83E2C12D6B.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/4D549A9F-F1BD-4E00-A6D8-0B83E2C12D6B.jpg.html)
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That looks great Sam... very functional and pleasing to look at.
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Looking very nice. One thought, anywhere you "boxed" it completely in I would drill in a small weep hole near the bottom. This will allow any interior condensation to trickle out. Won't prevent rust but should limit it to some degree & give you longer life.
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Great job Sam!
Amazing to me watching all the talent on this web site.
People would pay good money for stuff like this bumper. Men here just build it themselves!
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Yes I plan to add a weep hole to the pockets for that reason.
With the constant rock blasting the undercarriage gets, real rust doesn't seem to happen.
For the record, this is getting black bedliner, and the front will be coming off for a similar treatment at a later date. Even with the acid etching primer the stone damage and salt from the city did a number on the front. That must change, as it looks aweful at the moment.
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Very nice work and the step turned out great.
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I agree^^^^
Not to shabby for a canuck. :)
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Hey Ken...I'm an electrician...
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So with too many hours on the grinder, I said finito!
My hands and arms are still vibrating. Lol.
Into primer it goes. Depending on my ambition, we'll see how much further tonight gets.
But I'm on a time crunch and a day late already. We have up to a foot of snow on the way in the next 24 hours. Yes, including the snowfall warning...
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/34E07989-B556-4A22-BB6C-C3FB99886DDF.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/34E07989-B556-4A22-BB6C-C3FB99886DDF.jpg.html)
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snow.. in May?
uhh.. I think it might be time to move. hahah
awesome looking bumper by the way. diggin the corner steps. would love to toss one of these together for the f250
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Ah, it's only May...I've seen it every month but August. And that's because generally speaking we've been out for most of August. Not that it doesn't.
There are times that I'd like to move, but would be further north likely.
I'm real happy with how it's looking at the moment, we'll see in the next day or so if I get it on.
I had no clue it would come together so fast either. But it was 2 1/2 days of basically uninterrupted go at it.
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Hey Ken...I'm an electrician...
I slept at a Holiday Inn, does that count?
Looks really good. I still have my Ruenel to bolt on, but I want to reinforce the back. I just never liked the open ends and the full length catch all.
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Back on the topic of adjustable height sawhorses... I have a pair of these and they're great.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620)
That bumper looks awesome!
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Those look pretty good.
Got what bedliner on it that I had.
Needed more... >:(
I'll post up some pictures once I can stand the aroma in the garage again.
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lookin good sam.
I got me a set of these and I screwed a 4x4 on the top.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Blue+Hawk+36-in+Steel+Sawhorse
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Those look good too Nate.
Well, we are still under a snowfall warning.
Here's the view from the office.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/16727E34-BDB4-4156-A2A5-14DEA1B1711D.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/16727E34-BDB4-4156-A2A5-14DEA1B1711D.jpg.html)
In the back yard have an honest 6-8 inches according to the quad. Still coming down and winds are blowing. Sheesh, why is our biggest snowfall of the winter in the spring...
Oh yeah, the bumper.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/403FE0C7-56E2-4937-B7F2-7A1FFD86CE86.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/403FE0C7-56E2-4937-B7F2-7A1FFD86CE86.jpg.html)
Only had enough for one coat on the outside, grr.
Have to get a buddy to pick more up I guess. I really don't want to have to clean it back up, but may just hang it to see, and leave it till I have more liner.
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Back on the topic of adjustable height sawhorses... I have a pair of these and they're great.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620)
I have a set of those & they're ok imo, every time I unfold them the hinge tries to come apart at one end.
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I have a set of metal ones I got a long time ago. They adjust are are stout. In fact they are holding a couple sheets of OSB up I use for a table right now. They are a pain to adjust and cost about $50-60 a pair now.
I have several plastic ones. Great for fast work but not very strong and they fall apart sometimes.
This I like and use this all the time. A little pricey but versatile and strong and the clamp works both ways.
https://www.rockwelltools.com/en-US/Jawhorse_RK9003.aspx?mkwid=sYcMvkGRL&crid=53590330195&mp_kw=rockwell%20jawhorse&mp_mt=e&pdv=c&gclid=CLSRpcGU1swCFRCRaQod-l0BKA
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Back on the topic of adjustable height sawhorses... I have a pair of these and they're great.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620)
I have a set of those & they're ok imo, every time I unfold them the hinge tries to come apart at one end.
Yeah one of mine has a busted hinge on one end too.
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I would say that's a no go on the plastic horses. Mine made it through the deck rebuild then trashed,
They still all stand to low for guys with lower back issues.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I had a set I bought at Lenard's years ago. The top had a place that would allow you to slip a 2x on edge in. This way if you were cutting plywood etc you just cut into the wood not the plastic saw horse & they worked great. For taller guys you could use a 2x6 or possibly a 2x8.......
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So a small non update.
I neglected license plate lights intentionally, and have the LED bulb bolts en route.
As well, a set of 24 watt flush mount LEDs to amplify back up lighting.
I hope they arrive before final installation, which has been delayed to to lack of bedliner.
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So new poll up. Thoughts on blacking out the whole front end.
I have a 4 quart raptor liner kit to do the bumpers and expect to have some left.
For a refresh on how it is...
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/IMG_1594.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/IMG_1594.jpg.html)
I'm willing to do all of the front I think...
What's everybody think?
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bumper only.
I kind of like it the way it is
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X2. Bumper only, and your poll appears to be inop, or I'm an idiot, or both (see what I did there...3 options)
Poll is working now..
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Not sure what happened with the poll.
Anybody know if I can shoot it over the other liner, or should I strip it?
The front will be stripped and cleaned up.
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I know linex guys don't strip when they recoat because mine's twice as thick as before. They may use an adhesion promoter though. You can buy it in a spray can, and used for door jambs and anything else a painter is too lazy to sand. lol
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Good I feel there.
Also debating a colour matched kit to do the rockers and other heavily stoned areas depending how this turns out.
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Take lots of photos. I need to spray that on all rock chip areas of mine
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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X2. Bumper only, and your poll appears to be inop, or I'm an idiot, or both (see what I did there...3 options)
Poll is working now..
Hillary math.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Between a front and rear bumper you are not going to have much if any left. I've sprayed raptor liner on a couple of the bumpers I have built and plan for two courts for a front bumper minimum. Usually I am doing front and rear together so the front gets a little more than 2 quarts and the rear gets a little less than 2.
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Thanks bear. With that tidbit I'll shoot both at once, and likely use the whole kit.
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Sam, I gotta say, that Raptor Liner material out of the England is extremely durable.
Remember that I sprayed a part of Sarge with it? Well now after slinging a bunch of fuel cans across it, having a bunch of KY trees falling on it, grand kids and pre-rangers fighting imaginary battles from it's flanks, it is little more than scuffed
I think it might hold up to rock impacts, maybe...
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do the bumpers and from the body line down all the way around the truck, maybe the flares too if you like that look. my last 05 Chev 6.0 had that done (line-x) cost me about $800 to do the rockers and the flares with some running boards. ill see if I can dig up a picture.
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couldn't find mine- it looked just like this. other than my truck was gray.
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/attachments/exterior/38675d1328251066-line-x-rocker-panels-daves-truck.jpg
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I like that look. Was going to do mine like that but didn't trust the linex shop at the time.
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Some are better than others, that's for sure. After 2 failed Rhino Liners, first in my 85 Toyota project and then my chevy. I found a guy that does line-x for our dealership. the real trick getting the body edge straight and cut just right.
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Is there a specific place you guys are buying this raptor liner online from? Thinking the rear of the JK needs carpet pulled & bed liner added. Between golden retriever shedding & me using it as a truck it needs an upgrade. The rear tail gate is getting a little beat up at this point.
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That's the line I was thinking about going up to.
I don't want to go two tone, hence try the tinted variety.
Shawn, I went to an auto body supplier, by chance the sold raptor.
I was going to get whatever they had, and was very pleased it was this.
Not all sell to public, as I found out as well, but these guys did, Chase Autobody Supply not sure how global they are.
I did find a couple places on Amazon that carried it, but at over $300 a kit... :o
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Copy, saw it online several places maybe I'll do some local research
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Local is fine. Ebay has it in all colors for good prices, where I got mine.
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Thanks JR
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I just did a front bumper last night. Sand blasted it, primed it and sprayed it ended up using all 4 bottles on just the front bumper. I probably could have got by with just 3 but I figured I might as well put another coat on the bumper. This bumper was a front with brush guard so it does take an extra bottle or so to cover the brush guard good. There is more surface area there than one would think on all that tubing and there is also a lot of over spray/ waste.
I generally purchase my kits through amazon with prime to get free shipping. $120-$130 per kit depending on if it is tintable/ black and if you need a gun or not.
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Also, I like to spray a clear over the liner. The clear adds a bit of a gloss to it. Just the raptor is a flatter color but adding the clear seems to bring the gloss closer to the vehicles level. Also I think it helps with cleaning. The bare liner traps a lot of dirt in it. The dirt seems to release from the clear better. You can just spray the liner down to clean instead of getting a brush out in a lot of cases I think.
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Good info Bear. I had not considered clear, but may now just for cleaning purposes.
So having heard what you used, I'm hopeful that I'll have enough to do both with the one kit.
No tubes, just a lot of surface area.
My supplier gave me the kit for 166, which was far better than anywhere else I found it. Stupid weak dollar, and price gouging on the most part. I'd seen them over 300 at some places, and was like NO!
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Good info Bear. I had not considered clear, but may now just for cleaning purposes.
So having heard what you used, I'm hopeful that I'll have enough to do both with the one kit.
No tubes, just a lot of surface area.
My supplier gave me the kit for 166, which was far better than anywhere else I found it. Stupid weak dollar, and price gouging on the most part. I'd seen them over 300 at some places, and was like NO!
You will be fine with 1 kit for front and rear. There is almost as much surface material on that tubing as there is on the actual bumper and there is a lot of waste. I would advice you to prime the back really well, making sure you get into all the nooks and pockets you might have from any framing members/ gussets. That way you don't need to waste a bunch of the liner product trying to cover those areas. Using all 4 bottles I basically have 3-1/2 coats on all of the bumper including the tubing.
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Good info Bear. I had not considered clear, but may now just for cleaning purposes.
So having heard what you used, I'm hopeful that I'll have enough to do both with the one kit.
No tubes, just a lot of surface area.
My supplier gave me the kit for 166, which was far better than anywhere else I found it. Stupid weak dollar, and price gouging on the most part. I'd seen them over 300 at some places, and was like NO!
You will be fine with 1 kit for front and rear. There is almost as much surface material on that tubing as there is on the actual bumper and there is a lot of waste. I would advice you to prime the back really well, making sure you get into all the nooks and pockets you might have from any framing members/ gussets. That way you don't need to waste a bunch of the liner product trying to cover those areas. Using all 4 bottles I basically have 3-1/2 coats on all of the bumper including the tubing.
The back actually already has a coat of liner on it. Ran short of multiple coats, brushed into the corners etc so should have a good base as long as it sticks.
The front is going to be a complete strip and start over, as the rocks and salt did a number on the paint.
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Question for all y'all that have used Raptor Liner.
What did you use to clean the gun?
Was just going to get set up to shoot and yeah I read the instructions...
They are saying acetone to clean.
I don't currently have any.
But I do have:
Lacquer thinner
Toluene
And DuPont TX6712 gun wash (near as I can tell a paint thinner/cleaner)
10% acetone
Do I need acetone?
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I use laquer thinner.
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Thanks Bear.
So how much fresh air do I need while shooting it?
I don't have a cherry picker at my disposal, so debating doing it inside garage.
Good idea or no?
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Question for all y'all that have used Raptor Liner.
What did you use to clean the gun?
Was just going to get set up to shoot and yeah I read the instructions...
They are saying acetone to clean.
I don't currently have any.
But I do have:
Lacquer thinner
Toluene
And DuPont TX6712 gun wash (near as I can tell a paint thinner/cleaner)
10% acetone
Do I need acetone?
Lacquer thinner works well
You don't have but an hour or maybe a bit longer or that stuff will start to set up.
Acetone might work as well, but you don't need it...
I have even used brake cleaner in the spray cans
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Thanks guys.
If the stars align properly I'll be at it tomorrow afternoon.
A little late to get at it tonight.
Zero 6 comes quickly.
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I've sprayed it in a relatively small garage before in winter with little air flow. Probably not one of my brightest decisions but I didn't think the fumes were to bad. If you can open a door and get a little air exchange you should be fine.
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..just be prepared to have everything else in the garage coated unless it's covered up. That stuff can shoot quite a ways if the pressure is turned up.
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..just be prepared to have everything else in the garage coated unless it's covered up. That stuff can shoot quite a ways if the pressure is turned up.
So a few donor disposable tarps/poly is a good idea then.
I can open the door so I can get fresh air.
I was planning on it being messy, and Ken has confirmed it.
Thanks again, hope to have the rear done tonight.
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So here's why I'm at where I'm at.
Between all the rock chips and salt from winter the paint had to go.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/42047849-EBC1-453F-B13E-8A4D55BF7E3A.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/42047849-EBC1-453F-B13E-8A4D55BF7E3A.jpg.html)
I liked the colour match, but not the apparent upkeep.
Here's hoping the Rhino lives up to its reputation.
First up was disconnecting batteries from winch and unwiring.
Then removal from truck. I then took to it with a quick wash and scrub, then one of these stripper wheels. It made quick work of the paint filler and surface rust.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/DACC663B-9AA3-4286-AF0E-FB5E9F180060.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/DACC663B-9AA3-4286-AF0E-FB5E9F180060.jpg.html)
Then it was into garage for a wipe down and primer.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/A94A2177-21F3-45E2-B28C-DA70A2E4FFF9.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/A94A2177-21F3-45E2-B28C-DA70A2E4FFF9.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/1DD843C6-3F6D-4B5E-AD03-B8F47A46A9A2.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/1DD843C6-3F6D-4B5E-AD03-B8F47A46A9A2.jpg.html)
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Then the rear was shot with its first coat. I set my flowing air pressure to 40 psi, and it shot well so that's where it stayed. I was able to get a good coat on the rear and a bit of the inside of the front done on the first bottle.
As I poured the hardener into my 250 ml measure, the white frost that immediately occurred tipped me to hurry. I thought, that ain't right, and quickly filled the cup and added it to the liner bottle.
As I shook it to mix, I realized my rush was indeed warranted.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/EB96604E-F749-466A-A5F3-2B3A1C5CA1B4.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/EB96604E-F749-466A-A5F3-2B3A1C5CA1B4.jpg.html)
Within 20-30 seconds the bottom of the cup melted out.
So here's the state of affairs as I sit for another 40 odd minutes.
I need to decide how I'm going to proceed from here, I may call the back 'done-ish' until I have the front done. Only have three more bottles, and don't want to sell the front short.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/8B8094EE-0D8A-4ADF-88BA-84214B45359B.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/8B8094EE-0D8A-4ADF-88BA-84214B45359B.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/16116C28-7F0A-48D4-BBB0-0769804D825C.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/16116C28-7F0A-48D4-BBB0-0769804D825C.jpg.html)
I've got to add, this stuff sprays really easy compared to paint!
Now, the orange Peel is part of this, and it doesn't seem to run either.
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Looks like you have good coverage
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Looks nice. I have painted whole cars one side at a time outside the big door.
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Looks nice. I have painted whole cars one side at a time outside the big door.
I'm debating quite seriously now a colour matched kit or two to do the rockers.
It would be a debadge demould and from the doorline down.
It shoots really easy and seems quite even, so it may happen to prolong the life of the panels some more.
I would have done it outside but there is rain in the forecast.
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Looks like you have good coverage
Raising boys into RealMen!!
It covered really well. I'm going to have to look real hard to decide if it needs more on the rear.
I'm certain that there will be one more coat on the front, simply to beat down the rocks better.
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So my hour passed, and I could evaluate the first (maybe only) coat on the rear.
It looks good for now, so on to the front we go.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/EAEB8E2F-36AC-4950-89A1-CE3C3B7C8EFA.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/EAEB8E2F-36AC-4950-89A1-CE3C3B7C8EFA.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/F0EF022A-0C9E-49A4-A8A4-D724EA4FC6C1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/F0EF022A-0C9E-49A4-A8A4-D724EA4FC6C1.jpg.html)
Now I'm no expert, but they say 45 square feet per bottle. I did the outside of the front, and maybe 1/3 of the inside. So I must be putting it on pretty thick.
I'm really liking how this is looking.
And for the record, I tried the gunwash solvent I had, and it cleaned the gun quite handily.
So it seems that any of the usual suspects will do the job.
I'm going to shoot another coat in the morning on the front, and do any touch up work on the rear that may be needed.
How long does this really need to cure before I can put them back on.
I did the not 'manly' thing and read the instructions.
They say 72 hours before water contact...
Any thoughts from experience?
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I usually wait atleast 48 hours before I do anything with them. Wait for as long as you can as it will get harder the longer it dries.
As for the rockers I would do them if you just want to clean them up and make them look a little nicer. I wouldn't count on it prolonging there life much. Around here in WI anyway rockers generally rot from the inside out.
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I don't have a cancer problem yet. I get what you mean about WI.
It was an odd winter for me last year to get stuck in the salt as ad as I did.
It's more stone chips that need dealt with.
I was actually quite shocked the last time I rolled around underneath how good of shape everything still was. Now with these chips, if I don't get after s few of them now they will cause problems later.
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I think you could handle that after 48 hours of "Warm" drying time. I've moved my SquareD bumpers the very next day with no issues. And I think one coat is enough, although two coats would be super durable.
Finish looks great, Sam!
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That was my suspicion, went out this morning and added one more good coat to front of front bumper. It will likely see the worst of life. It was probably good, but heck I still had a couple bottles left. Totally forgot about my shackle until I hit the bottom of the bottle... ::)
So it got schmoo'd up with the little burps at the end. I guess I'll fix it with undercoating.
Very happy with how it shot and the finish looks really good.
Thanks all for using this, I'd never heard of it till it showed up here whenever that was.
I think I'll have to set the stocker back on front for a couple days.
I think I'd settled on 48 hours, and yours and bears comments confirm the need to wait at least that long. Wonder how long the stank will pollute the garage air for. Seems a tad bit thicker than spray bomb for a wuick job. Lol.
Thanks again all for the answers to the questions.
Will update when there is one.
Cheers! I'm on vacation finally!
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Why not spray the inside of the rockers with the stuff Don uses? Prevents rust. Or get the encapsulating stuff from eastwood I got the burb, come with a wand to get it the hard spots.
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Why not spray the inside of the rockers with the stuff Don uses? Prevents rust. Or get the encapsulating stuff from eastwood I got the burb, come with a wand to get it the hard spots.
Yea, concur
That Amber stuff is great
Gotta say, works pretty good on guns as well. Like your fav old shotgun. On that rare occasion when you pull the rear stock off. Coat all the steel with that goo-funkus and as the naw yarkers say, "Fa-get-ah-bout-it"
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For inside I'll use something else.
Need to look back at what was used to see if I can source it.
When I do wash the truck, which is not really all that often it's just beat with stone chips.
I need to address that on the outside with Raptor I'm thinking, and inside will definitely be something else. I know I can get the POR15, did see it somewhere on my travels.
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So small update.
In my haste to get the liner on, I neglected to do the cutouts for the additional backup lights.
Oh well, probably better in the timeline anyhow.
So I templated the lights in heavy cardstock, transferred it to the bumper.
Took a shot in the dark and used my 1/2" transfer punch to locate the corners, and drilled to 1/2" on the marks.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/B1916CC4-87DE-4104-8DED-0BA1929DD1A1.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/B1916CC4-87DE-4104-8DED-0BA1929DD1A1.jpg.html)
I then knocked the holes out with the jig saw. 1/4" plate is hard on blades.
If anyone else was wondering how thick two coats are as I was, it quite thick.
I'd put it around 1/16 or better.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/A2DC1C07-1DBA-4DE5-B23C-924766F96F2D.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/A2DC1C07-1DBA-4DE5-B23C-924766F96F2D.jpg.html)
Test fit the lights in the holes and transferred mount bolt locations.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/7ABBD7FC-9074-47B4-99BB-80640A76450A.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/7ABBD7FC-9074-47B4-99BB-80640A76450A.jpg.html)
And installed.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/C387FB0E-8BE0-40FD-8221-CA66948ED5F2.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/C387FB0E-8BE0-40FD-8221-CA66948ED5F2.jpg.html)
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The liner is still quite soft, and just noticed all of my monkeying with it has scraped a few spots off. Something to do with sliding it on steel sawhorses. Don, they don't catch fire FWIW, but are a hard surface on a finish. So your wood welding table may have been a better plan. Certainly the cardboard would have been more easy on it.
I'm sure I'll have a few more touch ups before install. Hope not, but they're just getting a rattle can undercoating at this point.
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Looks sharp Sam!
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Now I need patience to wait another day to start installs.
I'm going to piece together a harness for the added back ups, and tie it into the trailer harness when I redo the plug. I think that will be the simplest for the install.
I've got a bit of wiring mod to do on the front. I'll be removing the HID ballasts now in preparation for light bar. It's still on the slow boat from China, literally, I ordered in late May. I know, I know...but I wasn't sure on straight or curved. So for about sixty bucks I have both coming.
I'll modify the fog lamp circuit to power a harness and relay that was included, to power the light bar.
It would just be too much 180 watts, to add to the OEM harness.
I also have a high current plug to install on the winch power leads. Even with the breakers in line I'm still nervous about the cables shorting.
At the back, I have a ton of various sizes of wire loom to repair and add to for rock protection.
All this and HH6 is coming back from cabin when I can get her and her bestie. Our son comes home for a couple weeks tomorrow if the dang plane comes, and more company on the weekend.
So I'm taking advantage of a couple days at home to get stuff done.
Unfortunately the stock front will have to make an appearance for today, as I need the truck to transport to and from the cabin. Lots of laundry I suspect, a garbage run, dogs, etc.
Good news is, I won't install it all that well, as it will be off again tomorrow.
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So I've roughed in the backup lights.
I started by cutting off the bullet connectors, stripping back more jacket and then twisting the strands together.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/BC2B975E-6EA9-4E06-839C-F531B2F89AA2.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/BC2B975E-6EA9-4E06-839C-F531B2F89AA2.jpg.html)
Then soldered the connection.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/C8F897BF-0FCF-4025-8E12-F0F079938BA2.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/C8F897BF-0FCF-4025-8E12-F0F079938BA2.jpg.html)
I applied some dielectric grease to the bare section and added individual heat shrink.
Then two additional layers placed over the joint.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/BFAE70AE-1E5C-4BAB-85CE-90B8F8F7861A.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/BFAE70AE-1E5C-4BAB-85CE-90B8F8F7861A.jpg.html)
Then covered the works in split loom tubing to add some armour to things.
The smaller section taped in first at the joint, then the larger taped on overlapping a couple inches.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/CB4EE18E-45A8-489A-82C3-D87362B17503.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/CB4EE18E-45A8-489A-82C3-D87362B17503.jpg.html)
Then routed the wiring up and towards the trailer plug hole, where they sit until the install.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/8D7ED092-86F8-4431-A8C7-436CB0FC92FF.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/8D7ED092-86F8-4431-A8C7-436CB0FC92FF.jpg.html)
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The liner is still quite soft, and just noticed all of my monkeying with it has scraped a few spots off. Something to do with sliding it on steel sawhorses. Don, they don't catch fire FWIW, but are a hard surface on a finish. So your wood welding table may have been a better plan. Certainly the cardboard would have been more easy on it.
I'm sure I'll have a few more touch ups before install. Hope not, but they're just getting a rattle can undercoating at this point.
Cover top of saw horses with 2x4's and or carpet both work just fine.
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Should have, too late now. Just not dragging them around anymore.
If I was thinking I could have put cardboard or something under them after a few hours. Likely would have worked too. Oh well, can't win em all.
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If your luck is like mine, it would've stuck to the cardboard. Permanently .
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Sam. Good work. And I love heat shrink. It fascinates me.
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If your luck is like mine, it would've stuck to the cardboard. Permanently .
Ken, I believe we have the same luck. Lol.
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So today being another day, off came the rear bumper out came the hose to rinse off the mud.
I found an issue on the passenger tail light, and had to address it.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/7A105174-33A5-44FA-B70F-9EDB1336A130.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/7A105174-33A5-44FA-B70F-9EDB1336A130.jpg.html)
Pulled the harness down and out to work on it. One broken, another on its way out.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/B5EE9C8D-26DB-4117-B5B7-A4A831AA009E.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/B5EE9C8D-26DB-4117-B5B7-A4A831AA009E.jpg.html)
Soldered heat shrink and extra wire loom, back in the hole and done.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/6C0D2C41-E286-465E-BEC4-7182A1FAD34D.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/6C0D2C41-E286-465E-BEC4-7182A1FAD34D.jpg.html)
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Then it was on to the trailer plug. I found his guy broken when I built the bumper, and knowing it wasn't going on soon, ordered up the parts to replace the broken up connector when i installed.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/1019BCE2-E93A-4817-A199-083F14A7ADBC.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/1019BCE2-E93A-4817-A199-083F14A7ADBC.jpg.html)
Mouser electronics for the win again. I missed a couple part numbers, but was able to reuse the wire seals from the old plug.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/DDDEB8B8-9671-43CC-BA9C-1A3B902220A7.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/DDDEB8B8-9671-43CC-BA9C-1A3B902220A7.jpg.html)
Was a simple release the crimp in the seal and slide it off.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/B459448C-84C7-46A3-BBEA-BF90F7183E02.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/B459448C-84C7-46A3-BBEA-BF90F7183E02.jpg.html)
Did that seven times, and voila the new plug is in its place. Armoured up the harness and cleaned up everything that needed fixing.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/C0455981-0967-4A7E-AC0F-77028D3CB8E6.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/C0455981-0967-4A7E-AC0F-77028D3CB8E6.jpg.html)
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I then neglected to take any pictures, phone was dead, but added the wiring in for the reverse lights out of the trailer harness, and reused the liscence plate wiring for the bolt lights.
Bolted it on and was done!
I wasn't sure I liked the black last night, but today, I like it.
Here's the new rear.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/B81F335A-4FE7-465C-AF62-0E45D0807695.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/B81F335A-4FE7-465C-AF62-0E45D0807695.jpg.html)
And the refinished front.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/DF7B6E15-DF78-40E5-98AC-6C0B7374D685.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/DF7B6E15-DF78-40E5-98AC-6C0B7374D685.jpg.html)
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So next up is the discussion and decision process on how to maintain useable life in the panels.
I don't have any real rust issues per se, but have a lot of stone damage to put at bay.
One thought a buddy had was to do the flares black, and run the body line also black.
Not sure that I want that much black, but like the idea of the flares.
So now I'm thinking body line down colour matched, flares black, and under the doors black.
Going to have to do some work with photoshop to see it.
But man, am I happy to have head out of the garage.
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Darn good looking bumpers there mr Sam!
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Thanks Ken!
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Looks good. Yes address the chip issues before they become repair issues.
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That rear end looks great!!!
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Turned out real nice!
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Looking really sharp Sam!
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Ok now we just need you to make some for the Group. I'll take one
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Ok now we just need you to make some for the Group. I'll take one
Raising boys into RealMen!!
You don't know how many times I've already heard that...
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Ok now we just need you to make some for the Group. I'll take one
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Dave, there is a member of this forum that had a business and probably still makes bumpers for our trucks on a professional level. I wont dime him out, ill let him offer that info up.
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I think he also did the weld it yourself kits.
I remember looking at them back when he started posting info about them.
They were pretty sweet too as I recall.
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I still need a trans build before I go for fancy bumpers.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I want a bumper for my dually that doesnt look like a mad max bumper. Doesnt seem to exist.
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I've intended to document a bumper build for you guys here but haven't had time to do so. I thought I would start with the 3D modeling and throw in some design factors and other things a lot of people may not generally consider. Been to busy finishing up projects on the house to build any bumpers lately even though I think I have the steel for 4 fronts and a rear sitting on the bench right now though. I've shipped out fully welded bumpers, the afore mentioned weld kits and for those people I deem trustworthy and have access to a fab shop I have emailed them the .dxf files to take directly to a cnc plasma or laser table to have cut out.
This is not my full time gig. I just do this as a side job/ hobby. I've always enjoyed fab work and it helps me to better afford my expensive hobbies(trucks and guns). You can check out my website/ some examples of work on my website. www.bearclawbumpers.com
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I want a bumper for my dually that doesnt look like a mad max bumper. Doesnt seem to exist.
And this is how I ended up where I'm at.
I think I succeeded, at least I like how they turned out.
I'm also certain that I'm frame bending in a frontal impact of any significance.
Which is the thought process Bear eluded to, it did cross my mind, but that was about where it stopped. I did find some of Bears info somewhere in my travels on the interwebz, and look forward to when you have time to do a write up.
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So was pulling the boat out the other night, and it's finally starting to get dark up here.
Got to see the backup lights at work.
Wow
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/56C72DA5-C1C9-4CD5-BB9E-F0DF6E64E4BA.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/56C72DA5-C1C9-4CD5-BB9E-F0DF6E64E4BA.jpg.html)
I now wonder if 2 x 24 watts is a little much. It lights stuff up about 150 feet away quite well. The red outhouse is about that from the truck.
I'm also glad they are on the reverse circuit only also.
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Nice!! You can't have too much light!
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Besides a good rear bumper, those will be nice for tailgaters too.
Nope, not to much.
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So, light bar round two. Ordered a 24" as it was cheap, but waaaayy too small.
So found a 50" that looks to fit real good.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/65D02DED-E4F3-420F-A7D1-D4B1E53CED3A.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/65D02DED-E4F3-420F-A7D1-D4B1E53CED3A.jpg.html)
Will do the install in the next day or two.
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I will bet the price of those will really come down. Even wally has em now.
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Got the light bar finally installed.
Started by drilling the mount holes with front end together.
Then stripped off the grill and drivers signal assembly.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/ACABC20B-D1D9-44EF-ABAE-37B0BA895481.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/ACABC20B-D1D9-44EF-ABAE-37B0BA895481.jpg.html)
I did the all on mod years ago, so being the bumper didn't have fog lights, I used that circuit to drive the power relay for the light bar. Cut up the HID harness to maintain the plug on the truck, soldered in the relay base and brought power in from an under hood fuse block I installed. It was a four spot fused block rated for 100 amps...I don't and won't go there. Tied it off of the boosting bolt by the power steering pump. Ran a 10 AWG to the relay, and on to the light bar. Grabbed a ground off of a body bolt and was done.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/6D962B5C-4648-49C4-9B11-92F8DB782D27.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/6D962B5C-4648-49C4-9B11-92F8DB782D27.jpg.html)
Forgot to take any pics of it inside where it likely would make a better picture.
But snagged this blinding one in the road. Man is it bright.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/bumpers/F60F5F3D-3AEE-42EB-905A-1C9AEFD7EBC0.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/bumpers/F60F5F3D-3AEE-42EB-905A-1C9AEFD7EBC0.jpg.html)
Now time will tell if I should have spent more money for a name brand...
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Very nice. I have so called 80w bulbs for low beam and can't see a thing. Driving lights help but there has to be better!
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I went to 35 watt HID's in all my lights back in 2007.
They were and are still pretty bright.
I didn't see the need for 55's with the all on mod done.
But I'll tell ya, I've sure missed my fog lights.
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Post a photo of down the road view.
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I'll try and get one that does it justice.
The auto white balance and darkness don't play well together.
The phone pics sucked or would have been included.
May have to pull out the real camera, but if that's what it takes I will.
The light output is nothing short of fantastic.
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My wife's travers is in desperate need of some extra lighting. I have given thought to a light bar in the lower grill but that might be a little to bright
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Dave see if the 9011/9012 mod will work on her traverse. They replace the 9005/9006 by trimming the guide tab on the bulb so they go in the stock housing and the light output is significantly higher.
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Looking good Samm... FWIW I tried the Raptor liner on the nose of my equipment trailer to help with stone chips. It's better than paint, but it's still all chipped up. The gravel here ruins paint quickly..asI am sure you know.
"Fluid Film" is what we use to coat steel against corrosion. Inside rocker panels, fenders, under floor boards you name it. The stuff flat works. I have bare steel that has sat outside for over a year that hasn't rusted. I get mine by the gallon at John Deere but it's available many places.
The areas of Patch that have no paint on them due to the gravel I just spray with fluid film once every few months and they are still bare steel, no rust.
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Sounds like good stuff for inside frame rails and such.
Guess TSC should have it.
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Dave see if the 9011/9012 mod will work on her traverse. They replace the 9005/9006 by trimming the guide tab on the bulb so they go in the stock housing and the light output is significantly higher.
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I switched them out with a set of H9 s. The factory bulb is a 9012 I think. The housing has the little shield in it so figured I would try it. Works well until I can get her some proper Hid and projector retrofit. Still like the idea of a small light bar in the bottom of the grill for the long lonely drives into work
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Tell me a little more about the 9005 to 9011 bulb conversion? I have 80 watt lows now but need more (darn ol eyes) Are these an HID and just better bulbs?
On that note with all the cool stuff we have why not a forum on just lighting? Between auto, building and utility light, this is wide open.
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Longshot lighting sold me a killer kit for my headlights. I love them,
That being said lots of guys really like this set up
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/81-electrical/447624-legal-headlight-upgrade-here-better-bulbs.html#/topics/447624?page=1&_k=d8y78y
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So I e got a question for rpar86. Ryan, what holds the fender flares on, is it just the push pins, or is there more to it?
I'm in the city for likely the last time before break up, and have the delusion that I'm going to find time to Raptor the bottom of the body.
My plan is to pull the flares to get everything cleaned up good, do some de-molding etc.
If things work out might pull the box as well and do some frame cleanup.
Any advice on what I'll need to accomplish this?
Thanks in advance, hope you see this today as well...
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So I e got a question for rpar86. Ryan, what holds the fender flares on, is it just the push pins, or is there more to it?
I'm in the city for likely the last time before break up, and have the delusion that I'm going to find time to Raptor the bottom of the body.
My plan is to pull the flares to get everything cleaned up good, do some de-molding etc.
If things work out might pull the box as well and do some frame cleanup.
Any advice on what I'll need to accomplish this?
Thanks in advance, hope you see this today as well...
Push pins around the inside edge and double sided tape on the outer edge around the flair iirc.
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Well, I've never had mine off so I looked it up over on duramaxforum -- yes, just some pushpins underneath and then doublestick tape behind that holds them to the body.
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Also just saw your PM Sam.
I don't have much experience with rust cleanup and de-badging. I had the de-badging done by the body shop when I had my bedside replaced. Also starting painting my frame last year with POR-15, but still have a lonnnng way to go. Hoping to pull the bed off sometime this spring and tackle the rear end.
Sorry if this doesn't help much
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I've de-badged my black 03 back in the day. Also helped my cousin de-badge a white 08. That included removing chrome rockers. A heat gun and a 3M eraser wheel is what you want.
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My debadging experience is in my dually build thread. Monofilament eraser wheel goo gone
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