Hello Guest

Author Topic: Pulley's 2006 lbz  (Read 2846 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Pulley

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 83
    • View Profile
Pulley's 2006 lbz
« on: March 27, 2017, 11:10:29 PM »
So I figured I should start a build thread to keep up with what I've done and so everyone can get their fix until a certain green truck starts moving. I found this white 2006 ccsb 4x4 lbz in Mesquite, Tx just east of Dallas which was about a 200 mile drive 1 way so I got to drive it a lot right away. I drive about 90 miles a day so most the stuff I'll do for now will be for reliability and fuel economy.

List of mods planned:
Exhaust, haven't decided between 4" or 5" and if i want a down pipe back or cat back
Lift pump
Egr block/delete, leaning towards block for now
Probably pcv reroute
Efi Live probably Idaho Rob
B&W turnover gooseneck hitch
Some subwoofer setup not sure what yet, really loved the way my 2 10's in the dually sounds that fires into the floor but it takes up all under seat storage
Spray in bed liner

That's all I can come up with off the top of my head but I'll add to it as I go along.

The day I picked it up 3/24/17


Mileage after I got home


Buying my first tank of diesel, $45 for 19 gallons


They had the oil changed the day before I got it so I didn't have to worry about that but the fuel filter was at 43% so I figured it couldn't hurt to change it. The filter change was fairly easy but getting the dang wheel well liner off was a pain. Took well over 45 minutes and put me in the dark changing the filter. Pro tip: the water sensor unplugs so you can unscrew that after removing the filter, I didn't notice until I was putting the new filter on.

Finally got the booger off after destroying all the plastic body pins


Old filter before I took it off, had to use channel locks to unscrew it right above the water sensor because apparently the hulk himself screwed the last one on. Forgot to take a picture of the new one.


That was my first fuel filter change on anything but a tractor but I guess I did a good job priming the engine because it fired right up and idled for a minute before I shut it off. Figured if it had a leak it would lose prime. Didn't get to pour the fuel from the filter back into the tank as I had it in a styrofoam cup which proceeded to dissolve a hole in it and leak out. Next thing I did was get my remote key fob in the mail and program it to the truck. It has electric locks but didn't have a remote, the dealer said they were about to get one but I showed up before they could.

Bought this from amazon for about $15 and programmed it in literally 2 minutes but the dealership wanted $74 for the remote, $52 to program, and 30 minutes to an hour to program.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2017, 11:17:11 PM by Pulley »
2001 Silverado 3500 Drw Crew Cab 2wd 6.0 Gasser High Flow Mufflers and S&B Intake
2006 2500 ccsb 4x4 lbz

Offline Sammconn

  • Just A Guy in the Sticks
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 3894
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2017, 02:33:10 AM »
So just an FYI for your next fuel filter.
You don't need to remove the fender liner.
It can all be done from above, you'll need a strap filter wrench.
FWIW, I cut the wires off of the WIF sensor, as it has never done anything for me. I should just get one of the billet plugs the various places sell and then the whole business would be a lot cleaner.
The filter will fit up beside and between the AC line and fender.
Depending on who has done it in the past, it may already have the tweak for extra space.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2017, 02:38:39 AM by Sammconn »
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline Atkinsmatt

  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 2765
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2017, 06:28:25 AM »
I  cut a flap in my wheel liner about 4 inches  wide and 6 tall. Pull out and reach in.
Matt
16 GMC Denali 2500 HD

Offline Farmer Jon

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 2346
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2017, 07:40:44 AM »
The first time I changed my fuel filter I took the fender liner out too. Now on the newer ones you do have to take it out.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk

Father, husband, farmer, trucker, mechanic, equipment operator, ect

Offline Pulley

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 83
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2017, 10:17:40 PM »
I thought about changing it from the top but I figured it would be easier to take the liner out so I'll try from above next time. What is the recommended change interval for the fuel filter? 5k? 10k? Or should I wait until the percentage is near 0%?
2001 Silverado 3500 Drw Crew Cab 2wd 6.0 Gasser High Flow Mufflers and S&B Intake
2006 2500 ccsb 4x4 lbz

Offline Pulley

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 83
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2017, 10:39:57 PM »
So Chevy makes a great truck but their door speakers are pretty lousy. So I went by Walmart and picked up these Sony speakers that my dad has been using for the last 2-3 years with zero problems because my front driver speaker rattles and the rears don't even put out sound. It's about $45 for a box of 2 and you can get a 2 year warranty on them for like $4. Door panels are pretty easy to take off but the plugs for the switches can be a little tricky to unplug, helps to have someone hold the door panel while you unplug them. Ran out of daylight before we got to the back so I'll be changing those tomorrow.





You will have to drill new holes for screws to mount the speakers, self tapping screws work well.



If you don't have one of these tools for removing plastic pins then you need to get one. I also found it works on the liner pins after I destroyed all but one



Also some useful info telling you which wires are + and -

« Last Edit: March 28, 2017, 10:40:47 PM by Pulley »
2001 Silverado 3500 Drw Crew Cab 2wd 6.0 Gasser High Flow Mufflers and S&B Intake
2006 2500 ccsb 4x4 lbz

Offline CHEVSILVER1500

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 84
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2017, 06:37:36 AM »
Front doors have 2, maybe 3, 7mm hex head screws to remove and then you just lift up slightly on the door panel and it pops right off after unplugging switches of course. Rear doors are just as easy if not easier. Remove door lock slider (orange indicator) and the trim ring around the door handle. Remove said screws and gently lift up... worked at Best Buy for a few years as a car audio installer in my late teens and up to 21ish. Could do 4 speakers on that body style crew cab chevy in about 45 minutes. Have had the door panels off of my 2003 more times than I can count... the switch plugs on the front doors are the trickiest part.

Offline Farmer Jon

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 2346
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2017, 07:04:46 AM »
I thought about changing it from the top but I figured it would be easier to take the liner out so I'll try from above next time. What is the recommended change interval for the fuel filter? 5k? 10k? Or should I wait until the percentage is near 0%?
I change mine every fall no matter what the percentage is. Unless it get to zero % first.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk

Father, husband, farmer, trucker, mechanic, equipment operator, ect

Offline Pulley

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 83
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2017, 11:07:48 PM »
Been pretty busy lately and haven't had time to update but I finally got the rear speakers in. Forgot to take pictures but its much easier than the fronts and takes 10-15 minutes. The rear driver side speaker has a little rattle which could be the plastic in the door or a loose screw, I'll have to find some time to check. I was asked to pull a float in a parade the weekend after I got the truck so I figured why not.





Few days after that I clocked over 80,000 miles and as of today I'm at about 81,100


This past weekend I made a trip to Bryan, Tx to the producers feed mill to get 1 ton of feed which is about a 200 mile round trip for me but lost a tire coming out of College Station


Since I didn't have a spare I just went back on 3. It made the trailer sway a bit but not enough to make me feel unsafe doing 70 back


Whats everyone's opinions on the chrome along the side of the truck? It strikes me as a grandpa truck but I'm wanting to do a white and chrome truck this time but it is kinda growing on me. Also trying to decide on straight pipe or muffler on probably a 5 inch down pipe exhaust. I like some noise but I have been enjoying the quiet one I have now.
2001 Silverado 3500 Drw Crew Cab 2wd 6.0 Gasser High Flow Mufflers and S&B Intake
2006 2500 ccsb 4x4 lbz

Offline Farmer Jon

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 2346
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2017, 07:50:20 AM »
I like the chrome. But I am a 44 year old grandpa.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk

Father, husband, farmer, trucker, mechanic, equipment operator, ect

Offline TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 11314
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2017, 08:14:52 AM »
Chrome should go. I have an 01LB7 and a build thread. Might see some ideas there. 

I'd add a lift pump for extra filtration if nothing else.

I'm with you on EGR block. Never know when EPA may strike.

5 inch flo pro is the way to go. I run Flowmaster hushpower mufflers in both by trucks. Great sound but not loud.

I bought sound deadening and rolled it on all the doors. Made a big difference in the interior noise level.

Also look for some XTC foam speaker baffles in Amazon. Cheap and help the mid base in your door speakers. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline cudakidd53

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 3142
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #11 on: April 14, 2017, 09:07:29 AM »
Truck looks like an earlier clone of mine - NOT a Grandpa yet, 53, and like the White/Chrome combo......also like TRN's Big Red trucks, but don't need 6 tires in city/liberalville.  Go where your heart leads you......it's your truck!  :popcorn:
2012 Silverado LTZ - Duramax
Christian since 1975 - Field Trial Brittanys - NRA Lifetime Member

"When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. Hence, dealing with this fact is not difficult. It is only hard for those still living around you.....It's the same when you're stupid."

Offline Sammconn

  • Just A Guy in the Sticks
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 3894
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #12 on: April 14, 2017, 11:50:41 AM »
Fuel filter, I wait till near zero, unless towing indicates a change is needed.
I'm with Charles on the chrome, but Mike is right, your truck, your decision.
Exhaust, I have the 4" Pro Fab down pipe, fits great and I would recommend a down pipe upgrade, the rest is your call on the amount of noise you want. I have 4" with a muffler, if you can call it that. Not at all terrible for cab noise, but mash on it, and it's got quite a bark.
4" fits real easy all the way back, not sure on 5".
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 11314
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2017, 01:00:01 PM »
5 inch is fine.  It's actually 4 inches from the DP to about mid cab and transitions to 5. I have a 4 inch on the Dually and 5 inch on the LB7. I don't like they way any of them bolt together so I always take mine to a muffler shop to have additional hangers installed and weld the joints except for two so I can take it apart if needed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 11314
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #14 on: April 14, 2017, 01:06:55 PM »
14020100 or 15020100 are the Flowmaster part numbers. Either 4 or 5 inch.

http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/pro-series/

They also have it in stainless


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline Sammconn

  • Just A Guy in the Sticks
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 3894
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2017, 02:50:13 PM »
I don't like they way any of them bolt together so I always take mine to a muffler shop to have additional hangers installed and weld the joints except for two so I can take it apart if needed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Solid advice.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline Bigdave_185

  • Raising Boys into Real Men!
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 7686
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #16 on: April 16, 2017, 09:28:42 PM »
As long as the metal behind the chrome is sound, keep the chrome.  It doesn't chip, you can easily polish it,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline Bear9350

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 893
    • View Profile
Re: Pulley's 2006 lbz
« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2017, 01:17:47 PM »
I forget what brand it was but I was rather happy with the fit and the clamps that came with the brand exhaust I purchased for my LML.  Much nicer then some of the other brands I had seen.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.6 © 2008-2014, SimplePortal