M715.9

[JR]

Thats why I went back to the VE as I have the 518/205 and I think it is good too. It had a torn flexplate telling me it was still working well.

20mpg in the burb should be easy with that setup.

[JR]

Shots fired!

Heck, we are strafing now!!!!!!!!!!!

[stlaser]

I'm not entirely convinced he even knows that there IS a brake pedal in that truck. hahah

I believe he's aware of it being there I just don't think they work is all!

[cudakidd53]

That was probably his cousin then who knocked Kay outta the truck - that Ford had no brakes too I bet!

[OldKooT]

My brakes work very well. Patch even has a new used caliper (not painted) on the right front even, complete with better used pads.
It will lock up 3 wheels at 60mph no problem, just did it yesterday dragging 15K behind it with no trailer brakes. I should fix those....

I will let you in on a secret. The Cummins doesn't care if you have a lock up or not. Mileage changes little to none in real world situations.
A tighter converter is nice on the freeway... they suck in ice and snow city driving as the cummins trys to and succeeds in powering through the converter. I hated the last "low stall" Huges converter so much I took it out and made it into a stand for a bench grinder. Bet no one else here has a $700 bench grinder stand LoL

As for the Military rotary dash switch. It's just 24V circuit breakers on a rotary switch. I'd just wire the entire truck like a OEM M715 and motor along happily LoL They even make wiring harnesses for them and everything =P

[swbhobie16]

so, what you're saying is.. it can handle all the current being pulled through it and doesn't need relays and such??

I was planning on isolating each lead as it comes out of the switch and having it run relays for dash lights, headlights, and running lights. but what I think you're saying is that each lead can just be run straight to the accessory..?

[swbhobie16]

brown Santa showed up today!
only one missing is the fuel, and it should be here next week.



any suggestions on a sending unit? having an in-bed slip tank built that will be 18" tall at its deepest, and I know they are length-dependent for resistance readings..

hopefully showing up next week will be air intake box and crossover/high steer. then, it should just about be down to putting it all together and seeing if it'll drive down the road (brake lines and hooking up accel cable and PS/hydro boost)

.. but there is an end in sight!!

[JR]

It depends on the gauge I believe. There are universals or just adapt an OEM in the correct spot.

Hope you got all the steering items on sale, lots of emails lately for that. I have to watch as many big names are here in Kali and I have to pay tax on top.

[swbhobie16]

i think I found the correct sending unit. just need to check my order to see which z series gauge I got.

and I believe I got a decent price on the steering, it's all components, no DOM. which I can get locally for cheaper.

[swbhobie16]

alittle side tracked on the 715 yesterday to help some friends get an LS back going.

http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/AC873C0E-CEDF-49B5-B7AF-395CB4064BA0.mp4.html

05 Chevy tahoe motor and trans (36k miles on engine, rebuilt trans) and rebuilt Dana 300 attached to Dana 44s in a 1979 international scout II

I believe the steering showed up to my grandfathers house yesterday, now just waiting on fuel gauge, sending unit and air filter housing. We'll be back to work on it in a week or so. fuel cell should be getting built this upcoming week, then taking the bed down to have the bungs welded on in the correct locations. what do y'all think about having an 8"x 12" removable plate where the sending unit, fill and fuel pump (for either pushing out or sucking in) bungs are located? (mostly for accessing the inside should the need arise)

[stlaser]

Good planning is what I'd call it.

[Sammconn]

I agree as well.

[JR]

Sounds good. Thought of doing the same for the burbs.

[swbhobie16]

fuel gauge and air filter/box are in.

next question on the sending unit (about to be ordered) is: do you think it'll be ok for the top of the sending unit to be out in the weather? (there will be a debris shield.. or 'skid plate' if you will. but not weathertight) that ok..? it's just a couple ground leads.. no?

[JR]

Just spray them with a marine sealer or battery sealer. Actually that is good for any connection not sealed up.

[OldKooT]

Shouldn't hurt the sender... people do it all the time on auxiliary tanks that are bed mounted. I'd probably seal up the connections well but otherwise it should be fine.

[swbhobie16]

Shouldn't hurt the sender... people do it all the time on auxiliary tanks that are bed mounted. I'd probably seal up the connections well but otherwise it should be fine.

Just spray them with a marine sealer or battery sealer. Actually that is good for any connection not sealed up.

that'll work for me. hopefully have the tank back relatively soon and bed painted=bed on and tank in.

just need to get an injector looked at (leaking from between the body of the injector and it's hold down nut in the head) and then the front can start to be put together. which means it can get exhaust. and then run to temp to get an idea of any other leaks and how the radiator will do. which reminds me that we need slim fans and a trans cooler

[swbhobie16]

small update while I'm out of town.

36" free goodyears mounted on rims and truck. (spacers on front, none in the rear yet)




how about that custom fuel tank..  ;D





and with a fender mounted. I dare say.. it needs bigger tires. hahah

[stlaser]

Think you can let Don borrow that custom tank for SQ D? :D

[swbhobie16]

Think you can let Don borrow that custom tank for SQ D? :D

I suppose I can lift the patent and release the design.. just this once

[Sammconn]

Shots fired!

[JR]

Looks good but it does need bigger tires.

Why would SD need a fuel tank???

[stlaser]

Looks good but it does need bigger tires.

Why would SD need a fuel tank???

We're thinking it might just need an unobstructed one like above......

[Flyin6]

Looks good but it does need bigger tires.

Why would SD need a fuel tank???

Ya know!!!!

I'm gonna stick the fuel line in a bucket of diesel tomorrow and see if it starts...I'm tired of all this fussin'

[Bob Smith]

Looks good but it does need bigger tires.

Why would SD need a fuel tank???

Ya know!!!!

I'm gonna stick the fuel line in a bucket of diesel tomorrow and see if it starts...I'm tired of all this fussin'

Only because we care Don. Of course the fact nothing has been done on it forever counts too.

[JR]

Get r done!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[KensAuto]

That's the same da&^*&** tires I took off my 73 gmc...those things were miserable!!!!! the "original" Humvee tires.

[TexasRedNeck]

Looks good but it does need bigger tires.

Why would SD need a fuel tank???

Ya know!!!!

I'm gonna stick the fuel line in a bucket of diesel tomorrow and see if it starts...I'm tired of all this fussin'

Pics or it didnt happen.....

[stlaser]

Can we get a video & maybe a notorized report verifying this took place? :o

Look at the upside Don, you now hold the record outside of any of your builds for the most comments (posts) about any single subject on this site. Hands down, no one is even close!

[swbhobie16]

That's the same da&^*&** tires I took off my 73 gmc...those things were miserable!!!!! the "original" Humvee tires.

believe me.. not my first or second choice. but.. they were free and at least give us a better idea of how it will sit. ultimately, I'd love to see some 18" bullethole rims with 37-40" terra grapplers or open countries. or.. possibly a set of patriots that the diesel brothers now have..

[swbhobie16]

I just want to get the thing running down the road. hahah

[OldKooT]

Yah Ken those tires are "special" to drive above 30 mph LoL 

[swbhobie16]

Yah Ken those tires are "special" to drive above 30 mph LoL

it's only for a short time..

sheesh.. Don, I know what you feel like and it's only been a day. hahah

[KensAuto]

Hey, a day is actually 24 whole hours!

[swbhobie16]

Hey, a day is actually 24 whole hours!

I stand corrected.. hahah

[Bigdave_185]

That's the same da&^*&** tires I took off my 73 gmc...those things were miserable!!!!! the "original" Humvee tires.

believe me.. not my first or second choice. but.. they were free and at least give us a better idea of how it will sit. ultimately, I'd love to see some 18" bullethole rims with 37-40" terra grapplers or open countries. or.. possibly a set of patriots that the diesel brothers now have..

I stopped in at the shop they have here in my neck of the woods tires look like s solid idea. I might try a set in the coming fall

[swbhobie16]

small ish update:
passenger side high steer arm on, TRE sitting in place


driver side
 

and we got slightly sidetracked on Saturday by the oldest continuous flying display in American history.. amazing those planes are over 30 years in service





tie rod was fitted today, slightly bent down 1 pipe width offset from spring to spring to better clear engine oil pan. drag link will mimic this on the passenger side as well. (to get down on the same plane as tie rod)

question is.. how far in should the TRE be placed initially in the weld bung/DOM end?

I'm thinking 3/4" in initially, with 3/4" adjustment in and out and still keep the TRE at least 1" inside the weld bungs.

thoughts?

[swbhobie16]

ohh.. and we picked up the correct pedal for the wagoneer body/firewall, along with an accel cable from a '97 PPump. fits perfectly.. both in the firewall and attached to the pedal. doesn't give me full lever movement on the PPump.. but it's close for now. can shorten the pedal inside the cab is needed. and, the FSJ pedal came with a kickdown switch which I can wire to take it out of OD when passing.

[JR]

Actually the F18 Super Hornet was introduced about 20 years ago (square inlets and still to old) and still being produced today.

It was based off the original Hornet built in 1978.

On your crossover I am interested as the burb gets it too. Not sure on the tierod yet but I have all that too.  I understand the center tierod is less stress, but the high steer gets less damage.

I would say have at least as much thread as the tubing diameter for max strength. 3/4 adjustment is OK, but a little more won't hurt.

[swbhobie16]

im sure norm will fill in all the blanks. and the pros and cons of each. after we got the kit (by then my dad had up his mind.. mostly bc of the $$ spent on it ~$75 more than just crossover arms) that we were going to keep the high steer and do away with the lower tie rod location. (it'll look cleaner, just more complicated to build and align. if it gets too far out of hand, we will just get another piece of DOM and put it back down in the original location with new TREs.

but, I said all that to say that there doesn't seem to be a 'need' to go full high steer on these. a simple crossover arm on the passenger side and new springless cap for the drivers side, built drag link and new tie rod in factory location will be just fine on a Dana 60.

what lift are you running on yours.. do you know yet? I have no idea how far down in the engine bay the cummins sits in a square body Chevy..

[JR]

Yep, that is what I have too. I am looking now for the adapter to move the axle forward and inch. It will help with clearance for the tall wheels which the GMs are not famous for.

Running 6 inch springs in the front and moving it all forward some will help with wheelbase and when the cummins goes in. I understand the steering and the pan get close.

Funny thing is when I just got my interior parts the guy had 2 drivers drop dana 70s. My mind when wild for a few moments about those.

[swbhobie16]

with 6" springs up front you should have no problem running the tie rod straight across the top of the springs (for high steer) and only doing a slight 'down and level' bend combo for the drag link. we are only running add a leaves on factory CUCV springs, which only put them slightly in the 'positive arch) position. (and not in the negative that 80s models Chevys are known for. hahah)

I'll take a look today at how far past the frame rails the cummins oil pan sits. I think it's only 1-2" max. and I'd imagine yours being the same.. or at least close.

and driver side Dana 70s? didn't even know you could get front Dana 70s..? hahah

[OldKooT]

I think there are a dozen ways to steer a Dana 60 equipped truck. Every chassis is a bit different. There is not room to high steer a Dodge with less than 6" of lift IMHO. But you can run a crossover with as little as a inch or two of lift if your creative.

Jr on yours I'd talk to the boys at ORD in Co and see what they have found to be the hot ticket. They have done about every possible conversion known. Another guy that does some cool stuff with Chevy's is Kurt at DIY 4x4 he has a "b52" front bumper/spring mount you may want to look into...both businesses have a "easy inch" type of deal that will allow you to move yr axle forward also if using OEM spring lengths. Building a Chevy is easy peasy.... the hardest part is deciding how, there are so many available options already worked out.

US Dodge guys we have to do tings all on our own LoL

[stlaser]

Someone a little closer who is a Chevy full size nut is Randys 4x4 out of Azusa, ca. He's a good friend give him a call & tell him Shawn w/glo sent ya.....

[swbhobie16]

US Dodge guys we have to do tings all on our own LoL

do i get to be lumped in to that.?! hahah

my drivetrain is dodge.. if that counts for anything.

..and the suspension is Chevy. lol



I stand by (well.. behind in years) to norm on his 'dozen ways to steer a Dana 60'
and with a square body Chevy, just about everything under the sun has been used, upgraded, broken
and rebuilt bigger and stronger. just gotta pick  ;D

[JR]

The GMs have a little issue with the 6BT and the firewall so moving the axle solves a few problems. My springs are Tuff Country which searching showed the best bang for the $$$. They are made for a SB or BB, but I had a military wrap spring done local to assist with the 6BT 1000lbs.

Azuza, my old stomping grounds. Thx Norm. I have both Suspension connection and Ruffstuff an hours away. Many parts from DIY are waiting here now.

[OldKooT]

LoL I didn't say I was going to part it out. I have a standing offer or three for the truck complete, if I decide I will part with it.

[swbhobie16]

LoL I didn't say I was going to part it out. I have a standing offer or three for the truck complete, if I decide I will part with it.

ohh I know. I was just messing. hahah.

can't wait to see the crew come together

[OldKooT]

Yeah I'd like to see the crew done about last week. Problem is I need a long box pickup for daily use so that,s going to be the first "issue" at hand until resolved.

[swbhobie16]

gauge cluster coming together. may look alittle crammed, but we/I was trying to make it fit in the original hole in the dash and mimic the factory cluster in size and shape. I think it's going to end up cummins beige since the dash is gray and gauges are black face.



just don't have a trans temp gauge yet. figured we'd forego that until it was running back down the road. hahah



high steer tie rod



driver side



diff cover/oil pan clearance. at full lock it misses the top of the diff by 1/8", with tie rods 'wobbling' as much as they can.