Author Topic: M715.9 (Read 146489 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #400 on:** May 19, 2016, 02:24:51 PM »

Quote from: swbhobie16 on May 19, 2016, 01:58:44 PM

mocked up.. notice the straps suspending it. hahah

And while using weld quality precision wooden blocks!

JR · « **Reply #401 on:** May 19, 2016, 02:50:09 PM »

That is a man sized drive shaft!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #402 on:** May 19, 2016, 06:18:21 PM »

it was modeled after my.. never mind.

stock CUCV rear shaft shortened with a splined slip shaft welded in. front is a factory CUCV axle that's been lengthened

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #403 on:** May 19, 2016, 06:49:06 PM »

so.. since the previous post, welded on front and rear brackets to the tank, slung a rear crossmember between the frame rails, and drilled a couple holes. going to clean the inside of the tank and line it with tank liner. then, it'll get cleaned, primed and painted on the exterior. bungs, ball valve and plugs will go in and hooked up. (supply and return lines) going to get the sending unit heading this way as well.. along with a fuse panel of sorts. and a headlight switch. once that's here, can put the dash in.. hook the gauges up and see what happens.

e fans, trans cooler and power steering cooler will also be heading this way via brown Santa soon too.

OldKooT · « **Reply #404 on:** May 20, 2016, 07:22:59 AM »

Brown Santa is on my "bad list" this week... they keep running two-3 days late on delivery. Why the tank sealer? Guarding against welding pin holes or?

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #405 on:** May 20, 2016, 05:00:48 PM »

Quote from: OldKooT on May 20, 2016, 07:22:59 AM

Brown Santa is on my "bad list" this week... they keep running two-3 days late on delivery. Why the tank sealer? Guarding against welding pin holes or?

He probably owned a Ford Pinto once........actually saw one in beautiful condition here recently owned by a father dropping of his children for school!

JR · « **Reply #406 on:** May 20, 2016, 06:33:09 PM »

Hey, we had one of those and loved it. Got us to Yosemite and taught me to drive in it.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #407 on:** May 20, 2016, 08:53:09 PM »

Quote from: OldKooT on May 20, 2016, 07:22:59 AM

Brown Santa is on my "bad list" this week... they keep running two-3 days late on delivery. Why the tank sealer? Guarding against welding pin holes or?

tank sealer just to ensure that nothing seeps through any of the smallest pin holes. and protect against rust. Red-Kote is what we used. looks like blood running through the inside of the tank. but, I think after the 12-24 HR dry time, it'll be hard as a rock and keep things from oozing out.

Hope to get some pics of the tank painted and hung on its own weight/bracketry tomorrow.

any guesses on the tank color..?? hahah

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #408 on:** May 21, 2016, 01:45:42 PM »

y'all are no fun

red. the color is red

keep in mind, the upper line is just slipped in the bung (return) just so we could put fuel in it and crank it up. there will be a brass fitting on the top pointing down.

JR · « **Reply #409 on:** May 21, 2016, 01:51:57 PM »

Thought the red was for the inside?

Are those other tanks for,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #410 on:** May 21, 2016, 10:24:47 PM »

someone say RED?? I like it!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #411 on:** May 22, 2016, 10:07:53 AM »

Quote from: JR on May 21, 2016, 01:51:57 PM

Thought the red was for the inside?

Are those other tanks for,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?

red is/was for inside as well. the tank liner is called Red-Kote, and it looks like blood. hahah. but.. works very well. it's advertised as only having 200 mishaps in tanks in over 1 million applications since 1985.. and some of those first year tanks are still riding around today on the original coat.

there is fuel sitting in the lower sump section now, just making sure it the bung doesn't leak and to keep fuel in the supply line. once we pick up some elbows, we will drain the fuel to check volume (to know what is below the sending unit) and discoloration to make sure the Red-Kote adhered properly.

the 6"x6" square hole is where the sending unit will be mounted on a seperate plate. it's an 11" long internal float so sloshing won't effect it's reading. figured, that once it read 'empty', that really just meant the large 10"x24"x32" upper section was empty, leaving a 'reserve' if you will, in the lower section. (obviously, once to E, refuel). there will also be a 5 gal Jerry can mounted in the factory location (forward of fuel fill) that will hold what I'm hoping is an additional 100 ish miles worth of diesel. there is a drawing in the works for a 10" deep x 16" tall x 62" wide slip tank that will be bed mounted and has a fuel pump mounted to it for either delivery or pickup of fuel from various tanks/vehicles if needed. may also be plumped in to the lower under bed tank and transferred via ball valve should the need arise, or simply pump it in with the fill nozzle.

as it stands, there is ~33-35 gal usuable fuel under the bed. another 4ish on the exterior.. which I'm hoping will land us somewhere in the 6-700 mile range. closer to 800 is the goal, but it just depends on how the automatic likes those 4.56s and 37/39s

and the additional 40 gal slip tank should push us way into the 1500 mile range.. or some I'm hoping.

stlaser · « **Reply #412 on:** May 22, 2016, 10:19:43 AM »

Flyin6 · « **Reply #413 on:** May 22, 2016, 05:41:25 PM »

This thing is just beautiful!

JR · « **Reply #414 on:** May 22, 2016, 11:13:30 PM »

He is way farther ahead than I am for sure!

KensAuto · « **Reply #415 on:** May 23, 2016, 04:28:29 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on May 22, 2016, 05:41:25 PM

This thing is just beautiful!

Completely agree!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #416 on:** May 23, 2016, 06:44:30 PM »

thanks guys.

and.. it looks like im going to be replacing an injector line. there is a 'step' in the bevel where it mates to the top of the injector.. hence the leak.

hydro boost bracket has been mocked up, just need to clean and paint the assembly and bolt it to the firewall.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #417 on:** May 23, 2016, 09:56:01 PM »

What I also like about this build is that you get to do it under supervision and with help of your father. Years from now, Lord willing you outlive him, you'll look back on this and really relish those memories.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #418 on:** May 25, 2016, 07:53:58 AM »

got a visit from brown Santa yesterday. only lacking the cooling fans, silicon boot for the intake, shifter and whatever we decide to do about steering. trying to get him to go with borgeson components to link the old steering shaft to the gear box. 2 needle bearing universal joints and some 3/4" DD rod would make for a clean, simple and durable fix.

JR · « **Reply #419 on:** May 25, 2016, 10:45:35 AM »

Brown boxes are always good. You gonna use the pull through mounts or make something solid.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #420 on:** May 25, 2016, 12:46:38 PM »

for now.. just going with pull through mounts on the fans. the trans and PS cooler will most likely get hard/solid mounts. the trans cooler is going to be a booger to get between the IC and rad.. we shall see

rpar86 · « **Reply #421 on:** May 25, 2016, 09:26:37 PM »

Quote from: swbhobie16 on May 25, 2016, 07:53:58 AM

got a visit from brown Santa yesterday.

Funny you say that... old neighbor never did much in the way of christmas lights, but he did have a plastic blow-mold Santa that he'd put in the front window... he had somewhat of a brown tone to him...lol

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #422 on:** June 01, 2016, 09:40:43 PM »

thinking this may be fuel leak issue..

new on the left, old (hopefully faulty) one on the right.

a friend of mine here told they were non reusable lines which is why there is a shoulder on this one. is that true?

I'll have a progress report in the morning after I fire it up.. sure hope this fixes it

KensAuto · « **Reply #423 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:39:42 PM »

Never heard of them being non reusable.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #424 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:51:51 PM »

nor have I. I'm hoping it was leaking due to the shelf cut into the line. or from being misaligned. anything. and that the new line will solve my fuel leak.

fingers crossed. will know in the morning

JR · « **Reply #425 on:** June 01, 2016, 11:21:57 PM »

I would suspect the little channel as a problem. But they should be reusable.

KensAuto · « **Reply #426 on:** June 02, 2016, 09:35:12 AM »

Don't be shy when you tighten them....they have to seat in.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #427 on:** June 02, 2016, 07:17:34 PM »

well I cranked it up. let it run for a bit and it didn't seem to have any weeping. turned it off, rolled it back in the garage for the night and it seemed alittle damp. so i put the wrench on it and gave it a 'bump'. felt like it settled and that was it. sprayed with carb cleaner and let it sit for the night. will crank again tmrw in hopes to find a bone dry injector. the line on the pump is perfect. only the injector end, but it might have been bc I was skidish of over tightening. that's what I'm hoping for..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #428 on:** June 03, 2016, 10:19:06 PM »

got the E fans mounted. still not wired yet. going to figure out a fuse block location, mount it and run a main power wire on a relay for it. then start the task of wiring what little needs to be done on the truck.

hoses everywhere!

hydroboost all plumbed. there is some order to it once it all gets its final placement. just need a new coupler for the steering shaft to be able to bolt the wheel/column and brake pedal in place. hopefully running some brake lines next week and starting to put some fenders on!

there are all kinds of coolers on this thing. trans cooler. (above) radiator (duh). intercooler and a PS cooler (first 2 pics). the only cooler it doesn't have as of yet is a Sidney cooler (my dad.. no HVAC right now) hahah

JR · « **Reply #429 on:** June 03, 2016, 11:38:56 PM »

Looks good. I am still debating if I want to use electric fans or the stock belt drive.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #430 on:** June 04, 2016, 06:42:58 AM »

I think if you can squeeze the belt drive in, do it. it's going to flow more air than the E fans.. and as norm said, they don't always need cooling, but when you push them hard you're gonna need all the cooling you can get. sure it's gonna sap some HP from the motor, but they still do this day use mechanical fans on them from the factory, so I can't see it being a huge deal. and you're not building a race truck.. if I could have fit the mechanical one in there, I would have

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #431 on:** June 06, 2016, 07:44:25 PM »

picked up some brake line today, hoping to have it all run this week. once the steering is addressed and brakes are plumbed, front end can go back together. center console to house the shifter will need to be built, then it can be put in gear and creep around!!

JR · « **Reply #432 on:** June 06, 2016, 09:23:30 PM »

Sweet, before SD even!!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #433 on:** June 06, 2016, 10:22:31 PM »

don't say that! it's still a long way from done, and not nearly to the level SqD is. I feel like I'm in the short rows now, which is both good and scary..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #434 on:** June 08, 2016, 01:21:21 AM »

tonight's project

starter relay re purposed to run my fuse block (seen underneath the relay.. will make a plate to cover that I believe)

wire running up and left through the firewall is the ground strip on the fuse block. 12 or so ground spades on the block as well. makes things convenient. both the 12V and ground wires are run from the starter.. which is where they will stay. going to put a main battery kill switch in place as well (like on industrial generators. to completely cut off power to everything (it'll be hidden as well)

and below is the dash. (only a fraction of all the switches that will be in place eventually hahah)
left is going to be the starter relay interrupter. which will be powered off of the fuse block, so the relay can't close until the block has power and ensuring the cooling fans will come on when needed. it's going to control a relay that passes power through the foot switch (common in old military vehicles apparently) its on the trans tunnel. I wanted to ensure that you couldn't drops something on it going down the road and engage the starter, hence the interrupter relay. (and anti theft lol)
the right toggle is the control voltage for the main relay on the outside of the firewall.

Sammconn · « **Reply #435 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:41:57 AM »

A note of caution on the solenoid you are using. Make sure that it is a 100% duty cycle unit. Not all are, and not sure how you could tell if you don't have the info. It looks new, so you may.
A buddy has dual winches on his quad, and until he had the 100% units they would get real hot and burn out.
Just an FYI so you do t run into problems later.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #436 on:** June 08, 2016, 01:13:24 PM »

this particular one did not have whether it was 100% in the book, but it was identical to a model for a mid 80s dodge that was 100% duty cycle. this one just looked better (finish) and seemed idential to the one labeled 100%. if something happens to it, it is set up the exact same way, so I can swap it out for a less visually appealing one that will absolutely work..

I know I know.. shouldn't matter what it looks like. but it matters to me :( hahah

JR · « **Reply #437 on:** June 08, 2016, 01:42:37 PM »

Looks are always important unless jerryrigging!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #438 on:** June 08, 2016, 01:56:33 PM »

I'm trying to stay away from that. hahah

this one is a Borg Warner S63, but can't seem to find the specs on it online. any way one of you guys can cross reference it..?

KensAuto · « **Reply #439 on:** June 08, 2016, 03:32:30 PM »

Hmm, that won't even cross to the brands I use.

KensAuto · « **Reply #440 on:** June 08, 2016, 03:48:34 PM »

Wait, it back crosses to another number, that can cross to a Standard #, and Standards version is Not 100% duty (as with most starter solenoids)....and Standard/BWD are the same company.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #441 on:** June 08, 2016, 04:58:36 PM »

so.. sounds like a I need to order a 100% duty cycle solenoid that has the same comfiguration as this. the heaviest thing it's going to run is 2 cooling fans..

KensAuto · « **Reply #442 on:** June 08, 2016, 05:31:34 PM »

How many amps? You can get regular relays that will handle up to 40 amps. You using a fan controller/thermostat?

I've used these with success. Pretty cheap considering the adjustability:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3647/overview/

...oops, I think i misunderstood why you were using the solenoid. I would still consider that fan controller tho.

If you want a solenoid that is meant to stay engaged for long periods , you can get a latching relay like motorhomes use for switching batteries. It looks like a solenoid, but works differently. The duty cycle numbers of a starter solenoid pertains to the coil inside, as well as how many amps it will hold. The coil gets hot from holding the contacts closed, no matter the amp draw. A latching relay doesn't use hardly any current to hold it closed (sometimes none), therefore has a 100% duty cycle.

example:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/77025/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhN-6BRCJsePgxru9iIwBEiQAI8rq8xLP5jZlUTkoFnRrPikjyn2GL3gQeHTs7pwZZdAYipkaArVU8P8HAQ

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #443 on:** June 08, 2016, 11:47:00 PM »

yep. that's exactly the latching solenoid I need. and that's the exact same fan controller I have too. adjustable t stat, 2 fan, AC over ride (ours will be 12V toggle for the moment.. to keep ahead of any rising temps)

guess I'll keep going as is for now, and get that solenoid ordered or see if they have one at O'Reilly's or Napa and return the current one.

thanks for the info

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #444 on:** June 09, 2016, 12:13:16 AM »

what I managed to get done tonight in between putting paint and poly on a set or cornhole boards..

pyro (top right) seems to be alittle dim. maybe it's from whatever mechanism drives it. I noticed that when I turn power ON, it pegs to 0, very faintly hums for a sec or so,
then pops to the temp (which was about 70 in the garage). and when I turn power OFF it stays on the temp. maybe some sort of memory card or something..? going to hook up the tach tmrw and crank it up to see what it looks like. volt meter, fuel and water temp all seem to work just fine (already tested water temp gauge previously) trans temp gauge bumps but doesn't have a sensor as of yet (need a deep trans pan, if any of y'all have one laying around ;D ) oil and boost are as of right now untested. hoping it all comes to life tmrw morning ish..

JR · « **Reply #445 on:** June 09, 2016, 12:53:37 AM »

Looks good and I would like to see a video of that!

cj7ox · « **Reply #446 on:** June 09, 2016, 10:10:06 AM »

Looking good!

KensAuto · « **Reply #447 on:** June 09, 2016, 10:40:58 AM »

Very sharp sir. Well done.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #448 on:** June 09, 2016, 10:51:44 AM »

I just love this project.

I have to admit, talking to SquareD the other day, it admitted to me that "It" was a bit jealous of this M715.9 thing...
I'm thinking of gettin' it some counseling.

Will involve sparks, leaks, steel, new and old parts...

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #449 on:** June 09, 2016, 12:56:44 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on June 09, 2016, 10:51:44 AM

I have to admit, talking to SquareD the other day, it admitted to me that "It" was a bit jealous of this M715.9 thing...
I'm thinking of gettin' it some counseling.

maybe let em move in together. I have a stepdeck I can come get it ;D