Author Topic: Deere 2320 tire swap issue (Read 11000 times)

moto123 · « **on:** June 10, 2016, 05:55:51 PM »

Guys I need some opinions or ideas on how to get these wheels mounted.

A little background, I am sick of getting punctures in the 4 ply turf tires and I have basically no traction. The tires were shot anyway. So I found these wheels for cheap. They are the same height, a little wider and a lot heavier duty. So I want to mount them up. I originally was thinking cut out the center of the rim and weld in a solid round plate. Then drill holes where I need them. Until I did a test fit. I need about 2 inches more offset. So now I am thinking I need someone to fabricate a spacer to go from 6x150mm on the hub to 6x8" on the rim. Thoughts, suggestion or solutions?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2016, 10:23:00 PM »

can you cut the mounting pad out of both and weld the old into the new with the correct offset?

moto123 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2016, 11:39:59 PM »

That's a really good idea. But I would still like to keep the stock rims for when I sell it someday. And keep them as extra if I somehow manage to damage these.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

stlaser · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2016, 12:39:57 AM »

You need to order a set of custom wheel centers, cut the stock ones out on new wheels & then weld in newly cut centers. Pm me what thickness you want them cut from, od & id measurements along with wheel mounting pattern & lug stud diameter. I can then get you a quote.

Edit: after looking at pics maybe just weld new ones in & leave old centers there as it does not appear there would be any issue doing so.....

Farmer Jon · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2016, 08:20:37 AM »

There is a company near me that custom makes wheels and adapters. Give them a try. They ship all over the USA.

http://dstiresales.com/default.htm

JR · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2016, 01:08:12 PM »

http://adaptitusa.com/

I have made my own. Still run em on the elky.

moto123 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2016, 10:11:16 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on June 11, 2016, 12:39:57 AM

You need to order a set of custom wheel centers, cut the stock ones out on new wheels & then weld in newly cut centers. Pm me what thickness you want them cut from, od & id measurements along with wheel mounting pattern & lug stud diameter. I can then get you a quote.

I definitely like this solution. The stock wheel center thickness is 0.2 in. The thickness on the new wheels is 0.32 in. So maybe split the difference and use 1/4 in thick steel.

OD 13-15/16 inches
ID 4-5/8 inches
Lug hole Dia 0.48 inches
Lug pattern Dia 6 x 6 in

stlaser · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2016, 10:49:32 PM »

Where am I shipping these too? Sorry forgot that part.....

Flyin6 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2016, 11:45:37 AM »

Quote from: moto123 on June 10, 2016, 11:39:59 PM

That's a really good idea. But I would still like to keep the stock rims for when I sell it someday. And keep them as extra if I somehow manage to damage these.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Naw, cut them up. Never going to get much from them anyway and you'll wear out the "New" tires
Cut the centers out of the yellow wheels, and either cut out the center disc and weld over the new wheel, of try and fit the whole center. But DO NOT cut or weld on those wheels with the tires on them!

moto123 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2016, 11:59:34 AM »

I assumed I should remove the valve stems to let the tires breathe and was planning to weld about one inch each night over a week until they were done to avoid heating up the tires. You think this is sufficient or is there another reason you say to remove tires? I agree welding them fully in one shot might melt the tire to the rim.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

moto123 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2016, 12:01:27 PM »

Oh and the yellow wheel centers are smaller than the new wheel centers. So it becomes complicated.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

KensAuto · « **Reply #11 on:** June 13, 2016, 12:14:58 PM »

Take the tires off...how pee'd would you be if one of them didn't hold air when you were done? I know how I'd feel.

...wait, you sayin that the yellow section would fall through the center hole, even if you cut it on that line outside of the holes? That sure would be the simplist way, like Don said.

moto123 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 13, 2016, 12:23:14 PM »

That was my first hope for a solution. But I need 2 inches more offset. So I can't just weld the old center directly to the new center.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Flyin6 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 13, 2016, 12:26:16 PM »

Quote from: moto123 on June 13, 2016, 11:59:34 AM

I assumed I should remove the valve stems to let the tires breathe and was planning to weld about one inch each night over a week until they were done to avoid heating up the tires. You think this is sufficient or is there another reason you say to remove tires? I agree welding them fully in one shot might melt the tire to the rim.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Removing the valve stems might relieve the pressure buildup, but with the rapid increase as suddenly a large area of metal heats, it might not be enough. Goggle "bonehead (substitute idiot, or redneck, or moron, recently deceased,or whatever...welds wheel with tire still installed...Kills himself and damages nearby toolbox!

Why mention the toolbox, you ask? It was obviously the only thing of value remaining after the act.

Yea, thinking about it, I'd pull the tire off there.

moto123 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 13, 2016, 12:58:17 PM »

Wow ... Bridgestone has a pretty good safety video covering this issue. I didn't find the video you mentioned but the Bridgestone one clearly indicated that removing the valve stem and welding short bursts still has a high level of danger.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

KensAuto · « **Reply #15 on:** June 13, 2016, 02:51:25 PM »

Sorry Shawn for stepping on your toes, just throwing my $.03 in.

stlaser · « **Reply #16 on:** June 13, 2016, 03:41:52 PM »

That's ok, I'll send you the bill for that outburst!

moto123 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 14, 2016, 10:33:45 AM »

So if tires are so prone to exploding when heat is applied to them, why are so many people able to use a hot knife to reshape the tread? Wouldn't this set off the same reaction? Maybe it has more to do with electricity flowing through the tire than the heat applied. Not sure, just thinking out loud.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

moto123 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 14, 2016, 12:00:39 PM »

Here are all the answers to questions about why a tire could explode.

http://www2.worksafebc.com/PDFs/investigations/IIR2005108320019.pdf

In summary, heat applied to rubber can cause it to break down and release highly flammable gasses. These flammable gasses fill the enclosed cavity between the tire and the rim. When mixed with oxygen and a heat source they can explode. The explosion is so violent that whether or not the valve stem is installed appears to be irrelevant. That opening is so small it would have very little reduction on the explosion.

The reason tires do not often explode when tread is reshaped appears to be due to the minimal amount of heat applied. However the danger is still possible.

Nate · « **Reply #19 on:** June 14, 2016, 03:22:57 PM »

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tire+cage+explosion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKlJJqHFfoQ

moto123 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 21, 2016, 12:42:17 PM »

Minor update: New wheel centers are in progress and the tires were dropped off for removal from the rims. The tire guy said his machine was too small but that he would just do it by hand .... he is either very strong or highly skilled. Or just has a big ego and might end up fighting with these extra heavy sidewalls for a while. We shall see.

moto123 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 21, 2016, 04:27:30 PM »

The tire guy was successful!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #22 on:** June 21, 2016, 08:17:32 PM »

Impressive

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sammconn · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2016, 10:48:36 PM »

^what Charles said.
Serious dedication to hand bomb those off!

moto123 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 22, 2016, 12:41:45 AM »

That's what I was thinking as well. But he made it sound like it wasn't too bad. He may have left them in the sun to soften, it was like 90 here today. So maybe that helped?

JR · « **Reply #25 on:** June 22, 2016, 12:46:05 AM »

With the right tool and lube, most tires are not that bad.

Who is the happy kid in your pics? On a rack of some type.

moto123 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2016, 01:03:02 AM »

Thats my son. I think I posted a pic of him on top of our ranger if that's what you mean.

JR · « **Reply #27 on:** June 22, 2016, 12:23:21 PM »

I figured. Funny how climbing on something puts smiles on them.

moto123 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 16, 2016, 12:22:27 AM »

Finally an update to these wheels. I received the freshly cut wheel centers a few weeks ago. Thanks to stlaser for sourcing the wheel centers. The precision is incredible. They fit exactly as tight as the OEM wheels!

I was planning to add some pictures, but it seems I have saved them off to my computer already since they are no longer on my phone. I will check the pc tomorrow.

stlaser · « **Reply #29 on:** July 16, 2016, 09:04:08 AM »

Good deal! Glad I could help.....

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #30 on:** July 16, 2016, 09:56:10 AM »

Can't wait to see it. Turbo next?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

moto123 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 16, 2016, 11:23:09 AM »

That would be fun...

moto123 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 18, 2016, 11:00:17 AM »

Pictures of the new wheel centers that were test fit on the tractor axle.

Bolts tightened down. A very precise fit!

moto123 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 18, 2016, 11:03:31 AM »

Now lets see how the rims line up using the new center.

Here the rim is just friction fit onto the center. Clearances look good between the rim and the tractor frame.

Unfortunately it is clear that my impact sockets don't have enough clearance to access the lug bolts.

stlaser · « **Reply #34 on:** July 18, 2016, 11:27:12 AM »

Can you just buy ten studs & loctite them in the hub then use tall lug nuts?

KensAuto · « **Reply #35 on:** July 18, 2016, 12:45:23 PM »

Nothing a carbide bit wouldn't fix

moto123 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 18, 2016, 12:57:53 PM »

Both those solutions and also just using an angle grinder could have worked. But I wanted to have some fun with it. You see recently I helped my in-laws clean out my wife's uncle's garage. I ended up getting to keep many fine tools. One of which is an oxy acetylene torch. I have never used one before, so this was a good excuse to melt some metal. Fair warning ... I am not very skilled at it, but in the end accomplished what I needed to.

Test fit confirmed that I now have enough room to use a normal impact socket.

Then after some cleanup with a grinder and wire wheel.

moto123 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 18, 2016, 01:20:26 PM »

Now that I was confident that it would work, I started welding in the centers. First I just tacked them in. Mounted it up and spun the wheel to measure for true. Luckily setting the wheel on the concrete floor and just using a small level was enough to get them square. The outer lip of the wheel wasn't perfectly true, but was very close, within 2mm left to right and also up/down. I think it will work just fine for a low speed off road vehicle. I started welding small sections across from each other to avoid warping it. Then over the course of many days as time allowed, they finally became completely solid.

The red in the background is primer that was sprayed on the backside of the stock wheel center. I know this area will be hard to paint after it's complete so I wanted to get it primed well.

I was concerned about using a 110v mig welder for this application. But after the first tests, the heat pattern on the back side of the rim appeared to indicate that I was getting sufficient penetration. So I continued with it.

KensAuto · « **Reply #38 on:** July 18, 2016, 01:44:17 PM »

Nothing wrong with that!!

Sammconn · « **Reply #39 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:45:46 PM »

Looks pretty darn good.

Heck, you gotta start somewhere with the new tools,seems like a good start.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 18, 2016, 06:37:59 PM »

That weld is W A Y good for a tractor wheel. Prime-paint-mount those suckers!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #41 on:** July 18, 2016, 07:41:15 PM »

Well done !!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

moto123 · « **Reply #42 on:** July 21, 2016, 12:58:58 AM »

This paint was available at my local farm and fleet, so I thought I would give it a try.

It was mixed at 8 parts paint to 1 part each hardener and naphtha. Sprayed at 25 psi with a cheapo harbor freight gun. Yet I was very happy with the spray pattern and consistency. The paint layed down smooth and thick. My second coat had one run near the valve stem, my fault. Otherwise I am happy with it. Pics don't show well but it ended up very shiny.

moto123 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 21, 2016, 01:02:32 AM »

moto123 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 21, 2016, 01:03:39 AM »

I forgot to note that I did prime it all first.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #45 on:** July 21, 2016, 08:34:24 AM »

Those look great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BobbyB · « **Reply #46 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:15:31 AM »

Looks good

Flyin6 · « **Reply #47 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:58:58 AM »

Ready for 20 years of hard work!

moto123 · « **Reply #48 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:23:41 AM »

Or maybe they would only last a few days down at your farm?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #49 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:47:31 AM »

Quote from: moto123 on July 21, 2016, 10:23:41 AM

Or maybe they would only last a few days down at your farm?

Well, that's good too, right?