Ken, I think he meant you were quick feeding this guy a line of bull. And then signing it with the names of the two battling brothers. Or is it three now with you in there too?

Welcome Seth!

Thank you. I will check that out and see if I can make it happen. I was good at $39, but $35 is even better.

Did you buy them all, or is there more to be had there. I am on my first trip out of Galveston this week. I could make a few hour detour on the way home. The best I can do is $85 around my house. I did pick up a few 80% for $29 on a Black Friday deal, but too many is not something I believe in.

With that weapon, you only need a dry box full of matches...........find a field full of steers and drop your roastbeef right there!  Much more mobile, and with this group of stretched out pea shooters, not much will be left.  One of us boneheads will be your coffee holder, so just put a quality optic on top, soft tipped bullets in the mag and some salt in your pocket to either sprinkle over the roast or rub in our "wounds".......jesh......overthinking, over tricked out Ofsir types!

I got a few Stanleys for just such an occasion so that part is covered. We can keep the predators off with the pea shooters while Nate does the cookin. Sounds like a great plan.

Oh, nice gun too.

No problem. Make sure you get familiar with what needs to be engraved on it as well. I think it is just like a gun. Trust name (manufacturer), city and state, caliber, serial number, maybe model number too. I ain't positive on the last one. I will have to go look tomorrow. Sorry, but I ain't getting out of bed for that.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiLhpqu3MPJAhXC7iYKHfSjBWAQFggdMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.atf.gov%2Ffile%2F58221%2Fdownload&usg=AFQjCNFgAla8vEeY3YapC34pzTYKm4HTGQ&sig2=ni40eNUudcCu7VVhYFOXDA

This may help.  I would have called you crazy had I not gone back and done some more research.  Curious to see how your conversations with the fine folks in Atlanta go during your build process.

It would be interesting to make a can with a removable end plate and baffle stack.  Then replace the end plate and baffle stack with 30 cal or 22 cal components to have a single can with good sound attenuation on both sized projectiles.

That last part ain't legal. You can only have one completed set of internals per serial number. That number is specific to a certain caliber. You can always screw it on a smaller caliber gun and run it, but it needs to be built to the caliber you specify. If you want to build a second set the first must be destroyed first. You ain't supposed to build extra baffles during the process for testing set ups with spacer and such.

Most 22 cans are not built to take the pressure of 5.56.

I would highly recommend a trust. With that you can complete what is normally referred to as a "Form 1" online with the ATF, pay your $200 with a card and they email a electronic stamp copy. That same form can be used for short barrels also. You can't do it online without having a trust. The trust costs a few hundred to set up, but trust me this won't be a one time thing.
Link to E forms
https://www.atfonline.gov/EForms/faces/userProfile/login.jspx?_afrLoop=80431798485318425&_afrWindowMode=0&_adf.ctrl-state=62rzlaym0_4


As far as why anyone would do this. The answer is simple. You can buy parts to complete a titanium tubed and capped 8" can for less than $200. Add about $50 worth of freeze plugs that you drill and press into a cone and you have a can that works great. I know that's long for a pistol can, but it makes an M&P 40 comfortable to do a mag dump without hearing protection (not what I normally do, but I had to try it). Buying that size can would be $800 - $1200. Of course you have to add the  stamp price to all the above. There are several places to get solvent trap parts online. You can have as many of those as you want. As soon as you drill the end cap or a baffle it becomes a supressor part. You have to have the stamp in hand before doing that. From what I have found, you can hire someone to complete the parts. You must be present and supervising the work being done. I would not take that as legal advise. I did a lot of research though and that was my understanding of it. I will post a link to where we buy parts from. If there is any issue with it someone please remove it.

http://www.sdtacticalarms.com

Richard

Near Hammond, La
PM here if needed

Without being there it is hard to be much help. From your description it sounds like more like an air issue than fuel to me. If the air ain't getting there and the fuel is when you try to accelerate then the engine won't rev up and the unburned fuel will just go down the pipe. I don't remember what you said boost pressure was or where you are measuring. Something as simple as a rag left in the IC pipe or a roll of duct tape left in the turbo air inlet (seen both happen) could really throw you for a loop. I would go through all the air side too before spending more money fixing things that you ain't sure are broken.

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on December 01, 2015, 09:49:14 AM

yep.  and deleting a modern duramax motor gains 30% in mileage....or so I've heard

On that subject- nearing the magic 100,000 mile mark and looking to start a deleted parts assembly.  Are there still tuners available to do so?  Last I was on Dmax site, before we went live hear, it was the talk that they were gonna dry up and blow away.  Anyone know of or have recommendations what path to head down?

I just did my 2013. you have to use EFI Live. There are several tuners building tunes for it though. Mine is throwing a check engine light for high EGR flow. The cooler is removed and everything is unplugged so I aint real sure why that's happening. I need to get back with them when I get home from work to get that taken care of.

That's a concern I have too. Still looking. The price jumps up pretty quick from this point from what I see.

I have been researching some bench top mills. The Grizzly ones look pretty good for the money. Are you happy with yours so far? I know you have had a couple issues, but it seems they made it right. Would you buy that brand again?

Sorry, I put the wrong name in there. I actually went with the No-Spill systems plug. It works the same as the Femco. It's been a couple years, but I think I ordered the one I could get the quickest. It's a plunger type contraption that replaces the drain plug. A cap with o-ring in it screws on for normal use. To drain remove the cap and screw on piece with hose that pushes plunger up and drains oil. I got the compact one and with the cap on it sticks down the same amount as the factory drain plug. I just put a piece of twisted up paper towel in both ends of the hose and throw it in my toolbox. I just put the cap on by hand so an oil change involves no tools.

https://www.nospillsystems.com/index.cfm

That confirms it, they're all the same.
But man she sure is purty, and she ain't killed me yet.

I'm with RN on this.
Bout the only thing I do is split some firewood so I have something to snuggle up with the wife by. Oh, I did put new wipers on my truck. It does rain a little more in the winter down here sometimes.

I believe you stated somewhere that you don't have any experience with a weapon such as this. For that reason I would not recommend building your first one. A lot of guys here could throw one together blindfolded with spare parts thrown in a box at the bottom of their safe. For folks like that not much thought has to go into it. It really is easy if you know where everything belongs and how it goes together. For someone like yourself, I would recommend purchasing a cheaper model to learn the weapon system and see what you like or dislike. It's common to over build or over accessorize these things. Simple and functional is better to learn with. I would recommend something like the M&P sport in the link below. I know several guys who own this gun who haven't had any issues with it. It gets criticized a little for not having the forward assist or dust cover. I believe in your's and most other's situations that is not an issue. It was removed to save cost and lower price for an entry level weapon. When you run a few thousand rounds through it you can sell it for $500 and finish building what you want with the parts you have been picking up along the way when you found a deal. I understand the gratification of knowing you built it plays into this also. I think most here are the same way. It will be real hard to build one for below the price of this though.

http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/smith--wesson-model-mp15-sport8482%3B-556mm-nato-semiautomatic-rifle?repChildCatid=733516
I am not endorsing this store or saying this is the cheapest it can be purchased. It was just the easiest to find and link.

Academy is another place to check out som Magpul stocks. At least around me it is. They seem to be everywhere.

For the sake of full disclosure, before I started tearing this thing apart I had another truck to use if needed. I wound up using an 08 2500 duramax for the weekend so I was fine. It belongs to a family member who is out of town working.

I got the tunes loaded Monday after a few phone calls and emails. Something about the efi update affecting the autolock security settings. I ain't real sure how all that works and I really don't care. The tunes are loaded and the truck is on the road. There is still a couple issues they are working on. After two starts I got a check engine light. The code that shows up is "ECM P0401". I have been assured it is nothing to worry about. They had me check to make sure I had everything unplugged that I was supposed to. Not sure how that will turn out and I have not had time to research it any. The other issue is real minor, but annoying. The speedometer is high when compared to GPS. (55 on speedo = 53 on GPS) When I ordered the tunes I gave them the metric size of the tires as well as the actual measured height which is 32 3/8". I was informed today that they can only do whole number tire sizes, no decimal places to get it more accurate. Apparently they set the tunes up for 33" and I think I am going to change them to 32". I would rather have the speedo show low instead of high. I have only driven probably 30 miles or so, but so far I am pleased with the truck'a performance. I loaded the tow tune And plan on just leaving it that way. The sound ain't much louder than stock with the 4" with muffler Flo-Pro exhaust. That is unless you get on it, then it is a noticeable difference. There is a loud air/whistle noise under hard acceleration. I thought something was leaking. A couple people who have ridden with me say it's just the turbo noise from the exhaust. I'm still not convinced, but I don't have another deleted LML to compare it to.

Don,  With the Senister EGR delete kit you don't pull the up pipe. It comes with a plate for that flange that gets anchored to that support you cut off of yours.

Well here is the update. All the hardware was swapped out or removed and ready for the road in about 12 hours. It all really went pretty smooth. I didn't even shed much blood. I had to stop for a while this morning to help the wife with a few things, so that all wrapped up around 3:30. What happened next is Redneck's fault. You guessed it, tune issues. The simplest part of all this had to be the only thing that gave me problems. Just one more reminder why I like wrenches and hammers better than electronics. I have been on the phone with the vendor I went through and a very very helpful guy he got me in touch to try and help me out. We played with this thing for about 5 hours with no luck. Of course the guy at the tune company "who normally handles these issues is out of the office today". I guess now is the time where I Admit I should have followed my instincts and some wisdom. Either that or just try to tune it first.

He's stuck up on that loft in the garage because the ladder fell over. Don't worry, his wife will get him down when she quits laughing.

Think of it as fractional ownership.  No need to employ mechanics/pilots/administrators, eat depreciation, pay for insurance.

Those companies like PHI and ERA are well run machines and it really does work out to be cheaper in the long run.

I understand that completely. It makes a lot more sense and we contract the majority of our services and labor now. I guess when you consider that these are about the least efficient (cost/mile) mode of transportation that I know of it aint too bad. Going from turning wrenches to pushing paper and paying bills has really opened my eyes a lot. There is a whole lot of money flying around, literally and figuratively, in this oil patch.

I'm sure Don has already drawn up the plans for some modifications to fix that problem. If not on paper, at least in his head. You know he needs one of these down at the farm for observation and scouting missions. First order of business when it gets in the garage will be a "fluids change".

I liked that idea too until my wife saw the contraption. I just hope yours does not hit as hard as mine does. I think I still have that knot on my head and it was almost 3 years ago.

ERA Helicopter service?

We use PHI. We had our own up until this year. They were all needing to be replaced, so we contracted it out instead. The prices for the flights are crazy.

Quote from: JR on November 10, 2015, 02:16:30 AM

I would have just drilled through the beam. Coming off on both sides is better, but the weight needs to be off the set screws.

Contemplated drilling, however those beam clamps are rated at like 700#+ each so those sets screws ain't going anywhere. Never had the need for an inspection camera but yeah it would have been handy I will admit.

That rating is with them installed the other way. The squared off part of the clamp opening is supposed to on top of the beam. The screw is not supposed to support the weight, just hold it in place. We use several thousand of those things all over this platform at work. They work great and are easy to hang stuff just about anywhere. It may never fail the way you have it, but I would not leave it that way. You should be able to cut out the sheetrock under the beam where the clamps are. Then cut a notch in that 2x to make room for the part of the clamp with the screw in it under the bottom of the beam. Finish it back off with some mud and slap the unistrut back up there.