REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Vehicle Related Discussion => Topic started by: stewie on April 07, 2018, 07:26:48 AM
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Yep. My granola burner (subaru forester) is paid off, in great shape, but some [expletive] in a vehicle with a bumper that would have bashed my head felt the need to almost t-bone me yesterday for whatever reason... he felt the need to gun his HEMI and not let me merge right at the last minute. (we can discuss what i really think of the guy and his truck later). I knew once i told her what happened that would be the straw that broke the camels back. She's been wanting me to upgrade since we moved, but I don't want to take on ANYMORE debt especially since we're adopting.
Anyway. We have the Suburban 2500 which we love. It's my wife's truck, but i use it alot for towing and hauling. It gets ALOT of mileage due to this.
If i did go into a larger vehicle, i need to make sure what I am going into
1) does not put me in debt
2) is mechanically sound
3) fits my needs
I WOULD like a diesel, but am open to a 6.0 gas, etc... I don't care for mods or any of that stuff. I am VERY utilitarian. Need 4wd out here on my farm and since this will replace my daily driver, it has to ride nice and be comfortable.
I don't want to trade in a near perfectly working car for some junker with 300,000 miles on it just to say i have a larger vehicle.
So, what i am looking at are these:
Silverado 2500 - 2002 +
Silverado 1500 - 2009 +
Possibly a Ford 250 with the 6.0 powerstroke if i know the header issues were addressed (i see these pickups everywhere out here)
I need 5-8000 lb towing, dual/quad cab
I'm leaning towards the Silverado 1500, but need to know what years to avoid and what to look for.
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Before I bought my recent Jeep I was looking around at something bigger. The 6.0s kept popping back into my mind due to the same reason there are a lot of them around my area. I tend to think of how easy parts are to come by without going to a city if I can avoid it.
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Stewie, I don’t care what has been fixed on a 6.0L ford I would not take one if you gave it to me & that’s after having towed with an 2004 flawlessly pulling a 16k enclosed trailer for over 150K before it started to try & put me in the poor house. Buyer beware
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Before I bought my recent Jeep I was looking around at something bigger. The 6.0s kept popping back into my mind due to the same reason there are a lot of them around my area. I tend to think of how easy parts are to come by without going to a city if I can avoid it.
the suburban has the 6.0 vortec and out here, you cant swing a cat w/o hitting 10 of those and possibly 15 silverado 1500's with the 5.3.
This is kind of the basis for my searching but i would like 4wd (very hard to find here)
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/730871062/overview/
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Stewie, I don’t care what has been fixed on a 6.0L ford I would not take one if you gave it to me & that’s after having towed with an 2004 flawlessly pulling a 16k enclosed trailer for over 150K before it started to try & put me in the poor house. Buyer beware
i've since elimited the 6.0 powerstroke from my searching.
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Stewie, I don’t care what has been fixed on a 6.0L ford I would not take one if you gave it to me & that’s after having towed with an 2004 flawlessly pulling a 16k enclosed trailer for over 150K before it started to try & put me in the poor house. Buyer beware
I concur with the bonehead!
that 6.0 truck is not a good one.
Had nine, I think in Kandahar. One got all blowed up, so that one doesn't count. During the first 1,000 miles, one experienced a trans failure. ANother lost the turbo. Several had a mysterious electrical issue which was traced to dust particles migrating into the electronics. Only three, I think made it the whole three years I was sown there working that project, and those truck almost never went outside the wire. Sad, sorry, sorry trucks. Bu comparison, we also had a fleet of 8.1 Suburbans. Only RPG's, pressure plate IED's and 7.62 stopped them, never a mechanical failure, not once!
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ok, let's bring it back.
so the mrs. stewie and i talked more. Since it will be a daily driver, too. it's going to be a 1/2 ton pickup. leaning towards the silverado.
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I don’t know about the new Silverado’s but the last 5.3 I had got 14-15mph around town and 18+ on the highway. By comparison, the 2016 5.7 hemi I had and the 2011 5.0 I currently own get 13-14 around town and 16-17 on the highway. Doesn’t sound like much of a difference but the Silverado was a 2001 model. Ford and dodge seem to be at least 10-15 years behind GM on fuel mileage.
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^^^true story
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If you don't care about having carpet and a cd player get a work truck package. They are way cheaper. It is hard to find a good used one tho. They are usually all beat up.
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I had a 2005 Silverado 1500 HD Crew Cab 4x4 with the 6 liter before my Duramax and it was a great truck with no issues other than it wasn’t a Duramax.
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If that doesn’t sum it all up, it wasn’t a duramax lol
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Trying to find a 4wd in central texas is rough. we found the only 4wd suburban 2500 in texas and had to drive 3 hours to get it. I have a feeling this search will be a long one.
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Would recommend avoiding the 5.3L engines from 2007 to current. The failure rate appears to be high. I think I already posted about this on here somewhere, but the active fuel management system has some design issues. 2006 and prior they were very reliable.
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Chevrolet K1500 99-00.5 rear end problems galore. 01-06, 07.5 I think, prior to fuel management BS and it's associated issues is the way to go. 246 t-case w/ possible pump rub issues w/ all of them, but that's an easy fix, and the front end will need going through, but dad had an 01 with a 5.3L and we threw 4.11 gears at it and he tows 30ft bumper pull over the cascades without issue and gets 15-18 without towing. the 6.0L in my wifes Yukon 2004 gets around 13-15 all the time, and about 10mpg towing, but power is a lot more apparent. if it were me, doing everything all over again, I'd have a 4 door 2005-2006 reg bed w/a 5.3L and be done with it. the ride quality in the Silverado is just so much better, even when the whole front end was wasted it rode better than the competition.
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I thought I read somewhere that the active fuel management on the 5.3L could be turned off via some aftermarket programming.
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Well KBB is telling me upwards of 11K for my subaru. I want to do an even trade, but i know that's not realistic.
4wd is going to be the hardest thing to find.
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this F150 is of interest. it seems there are more 4wd ford's out there...
https://rogerbeasleyused.financing.dealer.com/used/Ford/2010-Ford-F-150-8f62ddb10a0e0a170ad7499583221b8b.htm
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If you get that you’ll have to buy some bulls for the farm to push around!
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I had a 1500HD and liked it, but the mileage sucked even with a programmer. With the 6.0 and the 4L80E, I never got over 16 and that was all highway driving like an old man.
Now the 1500HD has the nice 9.5 rear which is way better than the 8.6 the regular 1500's have. And if you want towing, the 1500HD is basically a 2500 frame with the lighter rear.
I wish they offered a 5.3 in the 1500HD. Most years offered both the 6.0 (367hp) and the 6.2 (403hp) in the 1500hd with better mileage and the 6 speed trans since 2007.
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Chevrolet K1500 99-00.5 rear end problems galore. 01-06, 07.5 I think, prior to fuel management BS and it's associated issues is the way to go. 246 t-case w/ possible pump rub issues w/ all of them, but that's an easy fix, and the front end will need going through, but dad had an 01 with a 5.3L and we threw 4.11 gears at it and he tows 30ft bumper pull over the cascades without issue and gets 15-18 without towing. the 6.0L in my wifes Yukon 2004 gets around 13-15 all the time, and about 10mpg towing, but power is a lot more apparent. if it were me, doing everything all over again, I'd have a 4 door 2005-2006 reg bed w/a 5.3L and be done with it. the ride quality in the Silverado is just so much better, even when the whole front end was wasted it rode better than the competition.
I had an '02 Chevy 1500 with the 5.3 and that thing did everything I asked it to and then some. The only (memorable) issues I ever had were the power brake booster and knock sensors.
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What about a Honda ridgeline? And before you laugh I like them and the ones around here go forever without issue. I mean he does own a lesbaru so at least it's not affiliated with the gay community...... :tongue:
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What about a Honda ridgeline? And before you laugh I like them and the ones around here go forever without issue. I mean he does own a lesbaru so at least it's not affiliated with the gay community...... :tongue:
lezbaru. hahaa, ive heard that one a few times. I call my car the granola burner because hippies love 'em too. Y'all can make fun, but that car is hella capable and been problem free for over 6 years.
the ridgeline is on the same platform as the pilot. we used to have a pilot. it was a great car for years for us. we traded it in for the suburban.
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If you get that you’ll have to buy some bulls for the farm to push around!
im on the fence with this one. it has the 4.6 3V V8 with the 3.55 axle. Kinda under powered IMO, but loaded for a good daily driver.
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im going to go see this one tomorrow as its 15 mins from where i live
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/726689201/overview/
key call outs are the heavy duty towing features and it's in my price range.
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What about a Honda ridgeline? And before you laugh I like them and the ones around here go forever without issue. I mean he does own a lesbaru so at least it's not affiliated with the gay community...... :tongue:
lezbaru. hahaa, ive heard that one a few times. I call my car the granola burner because hippies love 'em too. Y'all can make fun, but that car is hella capable and been problem free for over 6 years.
the ridgeline is on the same platform as the pilot. we used to have a pilot. it was a great car for years for us. we traded it in for the suburban.
My mom has an outback and my daughters are the ones who call it lesbaru..... sorry! :beercheers:
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what the tow rating on that one Stew?
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17k for a 6 year old truck with 125k on it?
I looked at carmax and they are way over priced. Should be rust free in your area at least.
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Stewie, any brokers down there local? We didn't have them back in Indiana but they are all over here and I've had neighbors use them with great results. They find what you want and keep things reasonable.
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what the tow rating on that one Stew?
12,500 i am seeing. it has the tow package which is a must have for me.
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17k for a 6 year old truck with 125k on it?
I looked at carmax and they are way over priced. Should be rust free in your area at least.
pickup market is hot here in TX. im blown away by the resale values of these vehicles.
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Stewie, any brokers down there local? We didn't have them back in Indiana but they are all over here and I've had neighbors use them with great results. They find what you want and keep things reasonable.
not sure. i rely on good ol fashion sleuth work and my spidey senses. they've never let me down.
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what the tow rating on that one Stew?
12,500 i am seeing. it has the tow package which is a must have for me.
Lol. That’s more than my 2001 2500HD gasser.
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what the tow rating on that one Stew?
12,500 i am seeing. it has the tow package which is a must have for me.
Lol. That’s more than my 2001 2500HD gasser.
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sorry, 10,700.
http://assets.cobaltnitra.com/teams/repository/export/bbc/86440139b10058fdb00146efa6b30/bbc86440139b10058fdb00146efa6b30.pdf
everything in TEXAS is bigger.
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im going to go see this one tomorrow as its 15 mins from where i live
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/726689201/overview/
key call outs are the heavy duty towing features and it's in my price range.
so i test drove this one earlier. it drives amazing. rancho shocks, additional after market leaf springs, but missing the running boards so hard to get in/out of. the dealer said they'll install 'em for me.
so... right at the end of the test drive, the low oil pressure light came on and it started to beep alot, but it DROVE FINE. no clunking or stammering, etc. Their service guy said it's probably a sensor and they're going to swap it out. What are the chances the actual oil pump may be bad?
next, upon inspection, i saw no issues except some older oil around the in/out pipes going from the radiator to a pump of sorts. i think it was power steering? i asked them to look at that and told them if it was from the oil pump, it needs to get fixed.
the handle on the driver door is cracked, but that's the ONLY cosmetic issue with the truck.
I'm on the fence with it until they give me some no BS response on the oil pressure sensor.
Can anyone guide me on this with further info?
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Send Kensauto a pm & ask him, he’s the resident mechanic with his own service shop
If you’re worried about the oil pump going out have them write in a 3 month clause they will cover it if it does go out. Guessing if they are pulling sensor they will put a mechanical gauge on it to check actual pressure reading versus the electrical sending unit
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Send Kensauto a pm & ask him, he’s the resident mechanic with his own service shop
If you’re worried about the oil pump going out have them write in a 3 month clause they will cover it if it does go out. Guessing if they are pulling sensor they will put a mechanical gauge on it to check actual pressure reading versus the electrical sending unit
ok. well, i brought my wife back and we drove it again. ran fine and pressure was fine. ill ask him to do a mechanical reading, too.
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For that price some warranty should be no issue.
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For that price some warranty should be no issue.
ill be having further discussions with the clueless salesmans, today.
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Speaking from experience on a check engine light after purchasing a used vehicle, get a warranty! And get it in writing, a dealerships word is truthfully worth nothing I have recently learned, as in I signed a document that said as much!
Well it said “only offers in writing have to be honored” meaning an offer from their sales rep verbally does not have to be honored. While I believe this is punch to the face of the integrity of a dealership, it sadly is to protect them.
Another thing, maybe take it to another mechanic you trust? Have them inspect it.
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Speaking from experience on a check engine light after purchasing a used vehicle, get a warranty! And get it in writing, a dealerships word is truthfully worth nothing I have recently learned, as in I signed a document that said as much!
Well it said “only offers in writing have to be honored” meaning an offer from their sales rep verbally does not have to be honored. While I believe this is punch to the face of the integrity of a dealership, it sadly is to protect them.
Another thing, maybe take it to another mechanic you trust? Have them inspect it.
i hate car dealerships. buying a car is one of the most stressful things in the world to me.
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Stewie,
I’d wager you’re not alone. I loathe it simply because the majority of dealerships have zero integrity and zero transparency. However that might just be my experience.
As with all big purchases, take it to the Lord in prayer.
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I hate dealerships, they want to take a half hour deal & turn it into a day long event.
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and once the purchase is wrapped they parade you through the even higher pressure accessories, warranties sales guy masquerading as the "paperwork guy" that you HAVE to go through. Kinda like refusing rental car insurance, you don't have to get it, but they don't have to give you the keys either. I'm in sales, in two jobs, and these guys twist my stomach.
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Tate, when I bought my F150 I had to tell them no 5 times to the extended warranty. Each time he knocked it down several hundred dollars......
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First rule is to always be willing to walk away.
Second. I negotiate everything over the phone and get a drive out cost sent and all commitments sent via fax or email.
And when I walk in it’s a matter of signing on the line and driving off. Usually and out in less than an hour.
Anything looks off when I get there and I walk. Plain and simple.
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I tend to play dumb in dealerships even though i know exactly what i am looking for and everything about it. in this case, it's a dodge dealership trying to sell me a GMC. i had to go in there with my guns cocked because i knew they'd be clueless.
I managed to get them to throw in running boards and up the trade value. Tomorrow i plan to go back there, look over the truck again and take it for an extended test drive.
First rule is to always be willing to walk away.
Second. I negotiate everything over the phone and get a drive out cost sent and all commitments sent via fax or email.
And when I walk in it’s a matter of signing on the line and driving off. Usually and out in less than an hour.
Anything looks off when I get there and I walk. Plain and simple.
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im under no compunction to buy and i can walk away if i dont like something. I'm not desperate.
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It definitely could be the sensor, but, GM 5.3s have a history with oil pressure issues. The #1 cause is the o-ring on the pick-up tube in the oil pan. Most shops will replace the oil pump, when it's usually only a 5.00 o-ring that's shrunken, and cracked, allowing air into the system. I would NOT buy that truck until they prove that they fixed it, sensor, or whatever. They need to manually test the pressure cold, and hot. If it can't build 60psi, or the gauge flickers, something is wrong.
If it's been run for a while with air in the oil (say 5-10k miles), and possibly low-to-no oil pressure, the roller lifters are the first to be damaged (may not completely fail until a few months after you sign the papers)
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It definitely could be the sensor, but, GM 5.3s have a history with oil pressure issues. The #1 cause is the o-ring on the pick-up tube in the oil pan. Most shops will replace the oil pump, when it's usually only a 5.00 o-ring that's shrunken, and cracked, allowing air into the system. I would NOT buy that truck until they prove that they fixed it, sensor, or whatever. They need to manually test the pressure cold, and hot. If it can't build 60psi, or the gauge flickers, something is wrong.
If it's been run for a while with air in the oil (say 5-10k miles), and possibly low-to-no oil pressure, the roller lifters are the first to be damaged (may not completely fail until a few months after you sign the papers)
thanks. i observed the pressure around 40 when driving, which is about the same as my 6.0 when driving.
they're replacing the sensor and i should get word on it later today.
Edit to Add: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t33921_ds539247
found this interesting. I messaged the sales guys about it all requesting hot/cold readings.
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I've read that discussion before and it made my head spin.
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I've read that discussion before and it made my head spin.
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watched a handful of youtube videos and it makes sense and is an easy fix. im going to have them ensure this is taken care of.
i also want to get the oil system flushes and will be using synthetic going forward. I always change oil at regular intervals and see that dirty oil makes this issue occur.
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Which part makes sense? The screen under the sensor, the pressure regulator on the oil pump, pressure valve for the DOD system, oil filter issues, or the o-ring i mentioned? lol
Out of a hundred or so we've done (2-6 a month), including an 05 suburban today, only a few had a dirty screen under the sensor.
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Ken, I'm switching pans on my 5.3 swap (CTS pan) that has a new pickup. Is the oil pump up front on the LS motor alone with the relief?
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The pump has the relief built in and on the DOD motor, a separate regulator (60psi) screws into the oil pan, on the inside by the filter. (it can be plugged off)
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Which part makes sense? The screen under the sensor, the pressure regulator on the oil pump, pressure valve for the DOD system, oil filter issues, or the o-ring i mentioned? lol
Out of a hundred or so we've done (2-6 a month), including an 05 suburban today, only a few had a dirty screen under the sensor.
all of it. so, i did a little research and txt the sales guy a novel. he followed up with a "panic" phone call that people are calling about the truck 3 hours later. I told him i'm game for the truck if they fix the O-ring and the filter and the sensor. Told him to google it. So... go forth and do as i command.
fast forwards to 4pm friday.
The dealer is eating the cost for all mentioned above. He claims he showed the mechanic my txt and they confirmed with a GM dealer down the road that i was 100% right. Per my request, 2 hoses, sensor, filter and o-ring are being replaced on the truck.
Sold.
I take delivery either this evening or monday.
First order of business is getting it to my guys for some general maintenance.
Tires has about 15-20k left on them. Rancho shocks seem to be 1-2 years old. Checked all fluids and they look good.
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I’d either be there when the drop the pan or make them take pictures. Trust no one
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I’d either be there when the drop the pan or make them take pictures. Trust no one
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What Charles said, I’ve found most legitimate shops have no problem letting you in to see what’s going on & taking place. Documenting the process is a good choice for both parties.
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I’d either be there when the drop the pan or make them take pictures. Trust no one
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What Charles said, I’ve found most legitimate shops have no problem letting you in to see what’s going on & taking place. Documenting the process is a good choice for both parties.
ill ask for pictures for sure. I would like it documented for my own purposes. also will ask them to save the parts they pulled.
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I’d either be there when the drop the pan or make them take pictures. Trust no one
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ill do my best. i was in the garage area with him yesterday looking over some stuff
He knows i am no idiot and i doubt they want hell risen over such a trivial issue.
I do plan to get it into my regular mechanic for a synthetic oil change etc this coming week and i can also have them verify.
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**DONE**
So i took delivery of the truck yesterday. They installed running board for me n/c, replaced a handful of hoses, O-ring and pressure sensor.
Yesterday's joy ride was nice, smooth and quiet. the truck drives like a charm. Oil pressure holds steady about 35 psi when driving.
Thanks for all who guided me on this.
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Nice ride, good luck.