3+3 2500

[JR]

I got my last 40gal tank for around $200 on amazon. Was a nice tank to for the 91 sub. Plus it is setup for FI pump.

You will need to fab upper mounts since it is a wrap around cradle with straps. Not hard though.

[Flyin6]

I got my last 40gal tank for around $200 on amazon. Was a nice tank to for the 91 sub. Plus it is setup for FI pump.

You will need to fab upper mounts since it is a wrap around cradle with straps. Not hard though.

I'm listenin'

[JR]

Wish I still had all the pics, long gone. Just used a couple 1/8 straps over the top of the tank to conform. Yours will be harder, my bed was off when I did mine. I ran the fill straight up through the bed. Run yours to the wheel well.

Just be sure to get a FI tank when ordering. Replace the cheapo TPI 14psi pump with a hp FI pump (same size) and you still have all the right lines on it.

You can see the tank and straps in this pic.

Here is a teaser of the inside

[Flyin6]

JR, I think mine would be dirt simple.

Just run the same fill line that is already there, and drop the fuel transfer pump from the burb stock aux tank into the new tank. Hang it and motor on

Easy Peasy!





I hope

[KensAuto]

King of DOTs ^^^

[JR]

King of DOTs ^^^

Yep, maybe we should be in the Suburban thread,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,me bad

[Flyin6]

Sorry!

[swbhobie16]

Sorry!

apology accepted

[swbhobie16]

big things are happening..









so far.. no broken bolts, curse words, lost (thrown) wrenches or more dents than we started with..

[JR]

Time for a swap! (and paint)

[stlaser]

Is it finished yet? 

[swbhobie16]

Is it finished yet? 

Time for a swap! (and paint)

believe me.. it feels like it already. been sitting for at least a year untouched. and to have moved shops, pulled it inside and starting to disassemble all in a week feels amazing

[JR]

Is it finished yet? 

Time for a swap! (and paint)

believe me.. it feels like it already. been sitting for at least a year untouched. and to have moved shops, pulled it inside and starting to disassemble all in a week feels amazing

I have so many things going I get overwhelmed sometimes.

[swbhobie16]

[KensAuto]

Worried about losing your chains?

;)

[swbhobie16]

Worried about losing your chains?

;)

hahah. it’s a friend of mines setup. he actually pulled for motor without me. i’m on a trip to VA in the pete at the moment.

[JR]

I like the single headlight fronts better. What I have on the 91 gasser. Way more room for cooler and lights.

[swbhobie16]

pretty clean frame



no tanks, brake lines, fuel lines or wiring

[JR]

Sure wish I had the 1/4 frame like yours. 2500 subs are .180.

[swbhobie16]

not sure exactly how thick it is. but i want to say it’s shy of 1/4”. but def not .180

[KensAuto]

You're sure the longer tanks won't fit?

[swbhobie16]

You're sure the longer tanks won't fit?

yessir. 14” coming out of the frame. and there’s a cab mount right in front of where the long bed tanks currently sit. and a channel in the middle of the tank that goes under a cross member on the body if i’m not mistaken.

biggest thing is the cab mount 1” in front of the front the tank.

[KensAuto]

Makes sense

[JR]

Cool, factory is always better for fuel tanks.

Found this for 40 gallon tank, had mine all the way back.

https://youtu.be/lppl_ONgzLA

[JR]

This is better, more like I did.

https://youtu.be/z7u6dKOg2mk

[swbhobie16]

Cool, factory is always better for fuel tanks.

Found this for 40 gallon tank, had mine all the way back.

https://youtu.be/lppl_ONgzLA

going to explore this for sure. can’t wait to get to that point.

[JR]

Recall it was pretty easy and I had the bed off too. Same time I added a crossover for filling.

[swbhobie16]

tentative cut marks for the short bed swap

[JR]

Think you need all the room in the rear. Can't you just cut the center?

[swbhobie16]

Think you need all the room in the rear. Can't you just cut the center?

no sir. gotta cut the back too. short bed is 6’6” long. long bed is 8’. 14” from center leaves around 4” that has to be had from somewhere. from what i can tell, different year model long beds require different lengths to be removed from the back. some are ~2”. some as much as ~5” if i’m not mistaken.

[swbhobie16]

got alittle done last night. just temporary fitting to make sure we did it right. hahah









had to set the turnover ball plate on to see what it looked like



just have to clean up the welds some more and get alittle bit of reinforcement done on the inside.

thinking of through bolting some 5” x 1/4” plate on either side with graded hardware. thoughts??

[TexasRedNeck]

Looks good. I’d just weld a box section in that spans 12 inches each side of the cut.


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[JR]

Box section or plate it at least.

Wish they had really made that.

[swbhobie16]

thanks everyone.

and yes, would have been awesome. this is going to be a crew cab short bed 4wd 1 ton running gear ‘89 3+3. took just 9 calendar days from pulling it in the shop to having it ‘roughly’ done. hah

still needs considerable clean up and reinforcement. but should be good to get 4wd swap stuff on there next week (scheduled delivery is monday..)

[swbhobie16]

rolled her outside for the first time.



then started pulling stuff off. doors and glass are completely removed.



if you look at the side shot, it looks like the bed is alittle downhill. but i think what’s going on is the cab body mounts are deteriorated some up front and causing it to look like it’s ‘bent’ some.

we measured the frame after chopping it down and the section under the cab is parallel to the very rear section of frame behind where the spring hangers mount. and it’s < 1/16” cross taping from front bed bolt hole to rear bed bolt hole.

could anyone else with a c/k series truck confirm the parallel frame sections for me? (bottom of main section under cab, top of frame over the axle, and bottom of rear section of frame behind spring hanger. all of mine are parallel)

[swbhobie16]

and of course this just popped up close by me.

im really tempted to figure out how to pick this up..

[TexasRedNeck]

I like. What are they asking?


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[swbhobie16]

I like. What are they asking?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

way high. thanks to mecum and barrett jackson. lol. but it is a really cool and rare truck.

that being said. 6800 for basically the shell and frame. would obviously need 8 lug conversion and engine/trans. new rear axle. but all i see when i look at it is COOL!

also, i ive hit a snag on the rear tank swap. i believe the 10 series and blazer/burb trucks all had shocks outboard of the frame. mine are inboard. does anyone see an issue with moving the shocks outboard? between frame and leaf springs. i think i can source the mounting tab from either my dads old junk K5 or scrap yard. and then just get some nice clean weld on tabs for the axle. can anyone with a burb get some measurements of the tank itself and where exactly it sits?

[KensAuto]

It's welded? Might have to start shimming.
I remember having a similar issue when I body swapped my 73. I think I had to shim the core support but honestly don't remember the details.

Still need measurements? Anything I can get with the bodys still in place?

[swbhobie16]

It's welded? Might have to start shimming.
I remember having a similar issue when I body swapped my 73. I think I had to shim the core support but honestly don't remember the details.

Still need measurements? Anything I can get with the bodys still in place?

just angles of the main section under to cab and the tail end of the frame just before the bumper. doesn’t need to be level.. just need to know if they’re in the same plane (if that makes sense..)

[JR]

Looks good, looks like you have the full tach dash to. Getting hard to find.

[swbhobie16]

Looks good, looks like you have the full tach dash to. Getting hard to find.

yessir. that’ll go away with the dakota digital dash that’s going in with the LBZ

[JR]

If you go with the Dakota, that stock dash will fetch a nice penny.

Still have one for my Sub, but need to figure the tach drive out.

[swbhobie16]

If you go with the Dakota, that stock dash will fetch a nice penny.

Still have one for my Sub, but need to figure the tach drive out.

what’s a reasonable price for it?

[JR]

When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.

[swbhobie16]

When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.

ohh man. that would be great. just about cover the engine mounts or trans mount for the LBZ/allison


i’ve heard back from another friend of mine who has a crew and all the ‘flat’ spots on the frame are all within .5° of each other. so i’m good to go from here on i think.

[KensAuto]

When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.

I converted mine into a tach. Iirc, it was from an 80s Camaro. Not going to work now.

[swbhobie16]

When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.

I converted mine into a tach. Iirc, it was from an 80s Camaro. Not going to work now.

what’s not going to work..?

[KensAuto]

The conventional tach we talked about.

[swbhobie16]

ahh. i gotcha. well.. i’m sure it can be sorted out

received a package in the mail today.









not my work.. but look at that tig skill. amazing.

i can’t wait to get it coated and bolted in to place.