LML Duramax build part 6

[Flyin6]

And I have another opinion question...

Should I lose the door trim or leave it?

Reason I ask is that one piece is starting to peel back and I don't see any value in keeping it. Tall truck is not all that subject to door dings from the Miata's cruising around...

[JR]

Loose it. Did you see I have a rear axle seal leaking? Front diff a little too.

Kinda wish I'd done the true trac in mine. Yukon posi is doing fine though.

[Bigdave_185]

After the many miles and sun shine I’d say replace it. You are gonna pull it and get some major shadowing where it once was.

Unless you spray the bottom rockers with some type of rock chip stuff to cover where the moldings were


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[Flyin6]

After the many miles and sun shine I’d say replace it. You are gonna pull it and get some major shadowing where it once was.

Unless you spray the bottom rockers with some type of rock chip stuff to cover where the moldings were


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That's two to lose it
and
I think its time to come in with some rock chip guard product
Probably a good time to do that right now

Oh, and Dave,
Is my paint black/clearcoat
or just black single step stuff?

[Bigdave_185]

You should have a quality clear on the year and model of your truck,
Should be good for a scuff sand and spray


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[Flyin6]

You should have a quality clear on the year and model of your truck,
Should be good for a scuff sand and spray


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OK, thanks!

[Flyin6]

So, collecting up all the stuff to do this next oil change.

For the transmission, I think I am staying with the GM recommendation of Dexron VI. There is a lot of discussion about the transynd and some others, but GM uses Dex 6 if you take it to the dealership. So plan will be to drain and fill with 7.5 quarts, then when it is all finished up, drive it for an hour, then pull it back in and drain once again then top up with more fresh fluid.

Transfer case??? Dex 6 as well? Haven't looked yet.

As for the rear axle, with Sean's super large rear cover, with the fill plug located way up high, I am forgetting how much fluid I added last time I changed it. I want to say three quarts at least, but I'll buy 4 of the Valvoline 75W-90 synthetic and add until I get to a point 2" - 2.5" below the fill plug

Getting new U-bolts for the sway bar mount, new sway bar bushings and new bolts.

I know Shawn likes the studs to hold down the rear cover, but was thinking about allen head screws because darned if I didn't bend one of the studs up from the last time I installed them!

[JR]

Many say to use 30w synthetic in the Tcase. My builder said stay with tranny fluid.

He recommended and filled my trans with dextron/mercon saying it holds better. When I had the trans done I had switched to transynd at 50k, tranny actually looked good at 200k when rebuilt.

I use the same oil in my axles.

[KensAuto]

Dex 6 in the tcase... probably closer to 5 in the rear diff. I personally use 75-140. Holds up better for towing.

[Flyin6]

OK, gentlemen.

Confirming my suspicions.

Dex 6 for the win, trans and T-case

Rear diff 75W-90, 5 quarts (Because it gets colder here than in the desert, so perhaps the 140W is not all that necessary). Just look at how good that old diff fluid looked after 50K or more miles.

I use the Valvoline fluid for the gear boxes

[Flyin6]

That leak was worse than I first thought.

All I could find is coolant on the two heater hoses extending from the firewall. One clamp was downright loose, so I cut off a bit of hose to make a new connection, reattached and tightened the clamp properly

[Flyin6]

I drained the transmission of almost 3-gallons of fluid and topped it back up. Magnetic drain plug on the PPE pan looked about normal

[Flyin6]

Air filter looked good.

I sucked all the old brake fluid out of the master cyl, then refilled and pumped the brakes. I sucked all that fluid out as a sort-of flush, then topped back up with fresh DOT3.

Same-same with the PS reservoir. Drained, refilled then ran the vehicle and cycled the steering and brakes a bunch of times, then drained that and refilled once again.

[Flyin6]

I was going to bolt on a MA Allison tail shaft brace, but decided the undercarriage was a bit dirtier than I like, so I degreased all of that with a mild detergent and sprayed it all off.

Now all i have to do to is:

1. Reinstall the parts sent out for powder coating
2. Remove those door trim pieces
3. Scuff off and coat the lower forth of the door with Raptor

This time I am going to thin the Raptor some and spray at 65psi which makes it much lay down much smoother, then after it cures a couple of hours top coat it with a two-part clear gloss urethane. That will help the rock chip protection mimic the factory finish a bit more closely...I think

[Bigdave_185]

Please take good photos of this process on the paint.   I have never seen it documented well, I think it’s a great product for applying a clear over.   Glad you are giving it a go!

What color?

Does your rig have fender flairs?


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[Sammconn]

Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.

[Flyin6]

Please take good photos of this process on the paint.   I have never seen it documented well, I think it’s a great product for applying a clear over.   Glad you are giving it a go!

What color?

Does your rig have fender flairs?


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No flares
I have used this product many times (5-6 times I think) and have learned a bit about it. \Pressures are important. 45psi from a shutz gun = lumpy, 60-65 psi = smoother. A little thinner = a lot smoother. A bit more thinner and you can shoot from an HVLP gun and get a near factory appearance

I ordered a case of black (Black truck/no brainer)

I ordered a case of the two stage UPOL 368 cleat. Punch in a plunger on the bottom of the can to release the activator, then shake for awhile. Pot life is something near 12 hours, but as short as a few hours in the warmer temps. It bonds well with the Raptor and should yield the near factory appearance I am looking for

[Flyin6]

Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.

Good tip!

I'll go back in after it again. PS fluid is cheap enough. What is it btw, I'm guessing AW-46 hydraulic fluid???

[Nate]

don, here is the original write up that one of the admin did on DF.....(if you need to reference it?)

https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/how-to-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.9081/

[Sammconn]

Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.

Good tip!

I'll go back in after it again. PS fluid is cheap enough. What is it btw, I'm guessing AW-46 hydraulic fluid???

Because of my extreme cold temps, I use synthetic ATF.
Now, the Amsoil PS fluid did work for me too.
AW-46 may work too.

[Farmer Jon]

If you do a proper flush of the power steering you will be amazed how dark that fluid really is. Mine only had 100,000 miles and it looked like used engine oil.

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[Flyin6]

I had the wheels powder=coated white.

I may have made a mistake picking white, but was going for a utility/retro look. Seeing them on the truck, I am not sure.

The finish is amazing and super high quality. Another job well done by Killer Koatings of Covington KY.

I used brand new spline lug nuts and obviously cleaned everything up

[Flyin6]

I chose a basic silver for the rear sway bar and Shawn's diff cover. More utility than for looks, I just don't want anything rusting.

[Flyin6]

I greased the snot out of everything, using most of a tube of the red sticky stuff. I poke a small hole in boots then pump to purge old grease. I'll get a couple tablespoons out then consider it done

The tires on extreme flex have been nipping at my inner wheel house tubs. So I heated them up and bent them backward, then went over with gorilla tape

[Flyin6]

I managed to tip over a gallon jug of 75W-90 so I get to buy some more tomorrow!

I still have a couple odds and ends to do to finish it up, but I am approaching done

It has been so cold that sanding down the chips and coating them is out of the question. I need a torpedo heater to get it warm enough in there and that, unfortunately can put microscopic oil droplets all over the surface you really want the urethane to stick to...

So I wait, probably for spring...

Oh, and I spent the morning tuning the Burb, just to make it more driveable, and I lucked onto a sweet spot with the trans tuning. It is much. much better and now holds OD meaning the RPM's dropped drastically, like almost 1000RPM! That should really wake up the mileage...

That's another thread

[JR]

1000 rpm will make all the diff in the world, nice job. Is your heater kerosen? Looking at a propane myself, plus they are safe for inside use. I hear guys who use oil type heaters indoors fly for the arme?

I liked the grey wheels. Not common and went with the black nice. Reminds me of the 70-80s look with wagon wheels,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Speaking of oil, it has really gotten pricy. I just did my Dmax (3gl now) and 2.5 jugs are close to $50 now. I always like to have a change on hand. So replacing used stock.

[Sammconn]

I’m with ya on not sure on the white wheels.
 It comin along good tho.
A normal oil change this time.

[TexasRedNeck]

I think Stevie Wonder would love that color scheme …..


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[KensAuto]

JR, I run the diesel torpedoes all winter, in a 600 sqft shop. Maybe that's what's wrong with me?
I had a propane version but it ate gas like crazy.

[JR]

Well, you could ask H?

[dave945]

Didn’t you have one of your heat exchangers in the garage from the outdoor boiler?  Or is that in your wife’s garage?


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[Flyin6]

Didn’t you have one of your heat exchangers in the garage from the outdoor boiler?  Or is that in your wife’s garage?


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I do, but I don't have any wood
Things have been crazy and I haven't gotten any wood cut, nor any help to get any of that done. Remaining pre-ranger has sports all the time and most weekends spoken for. I don't get down to the farm on rainy days +2 because of all the mud, so, this year, we haven't had much wood up here...Have tons of it farmside.

[Flyin6]

I think Stevie Wonder would love that color scheme …..


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Eb-o-ney and I-vo-rey live to-ge-ther in per-fect, har-mo=neeee

[Flyin6]

1000 rpm will make all the diff in the world, nice job. Is your heater kerosen? Looking at a propane myself, plus they are safe for inside use. I hear guys who use oil type heaters indoors fly for the arme?

I liked the grey wheels. Not common and went with the black nice. Reminds me of the 70-80s look with wagon wheels,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Speaking of oil, it has really gotten pricy. I just did my Dmax (3gl now) and 2.5 jugs are close to $50 now. I always like to have a change on hand. So replacing used stock.

Heater runs on diesel

well, 70-80's white wagon wheels look was what I was shootin' fer

And then I remembered I was glad we finally moved on... YIKES!

[Bigdave_185]

I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house

Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys


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[KensAuto]

I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house

Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys


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Refer to post #532.

[Bigdave_185]

I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house

Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys


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Refer to post #532.

Ah I see


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[JR]

 

[Flyin6]

Come on JR. it's ten degrees below really cold out there. Gimme a break will ya! ;-)

[JR]

I think working in the garage is great and you have 2 heater types. Heck I run a little dish heater but have no room to work in the garage.

Right now I am in a push to get the BC up to the ridge, this weekend I hope!

[Flyin6]

I didn't like the wheels powder coated white

So I changed it again:

[EL TATE]

Big thumbs up!

[JR]

Way better than white


 

[TexasRedNeck]

Rattle can or did you break them down and send them off again?

Looks sharp.


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[oklawall]

I like them

[Bigdave_185]

Million times better then white. 


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[KensAuto]

Mucho better!!

[Flyin6]

Rattle can or did you break them down and send them off again?

Looks sharp.


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Dun rite

$800...Ouch

[Flyin6]

Shot a couple matching vehicle pics

[Flyin6]

So I decided to replace the failing Edge CTS with a new one