LML Duramax build part 6

[Flyin6]

Only one cable for the new unit!

[Flyin6]

Better display!

[Flyin6]

Next I decided to try out one of those pedal commander things. I have long thought the pedal is sluggish getting this big diesel to respond. For a couple hundred, I thought it would be an interesting test.
Installation is simple, but getting the controller to connect blue tooth is not.

[Flyin6]

Unplug the pedal and plug in the new controller

Then hook up the controller and adjust for which ever setting you want

[Flyin6]

Now, finally, I have a new "Issue" with my truck.

Following the trip down to North Carolina and back the truck has started a louder ticking sound under acceleration. You'd think it was spark knock if it weren't a diesel engine. I've read the posts about Duramax typewriter sounds being normal, and I'm not sure if that may be it. Oil pressure is good, essentially unchanged since new so it has me mystified. So I checked out the injector balance and saw this:

Who can tell me what it is I am looking at?

[JR]

Really, those rates do not look all that bad. Non are more than over/under which seems to be OK. I cleaned mine a couple years back as I had a couple over that. Couldn't hurt it at all and not hard.

Funny, I have the CTS, tried the CT3 and didn't like it (returned) It did not have some of the things I liked and I didn't like the screen layout. Plus the mount to the window is ugly. I was told when I called it would mount in the older bezel, but it does not. I like the mount on the A pillar they just came out with though.

Can't we just "tune" the peddle to our liking?

[Flyin6]

JR, this pedal commander actually allows you to "Tune your pedal and save three different "Tunes!"

I'm not there. That's kid stuff. What I thought was the factory pedal relationship to git-up-n-go wasn't correct.

Now I know that is true. I set this thing to 150% over stock (Stock being 100%) and bingo...Love it. The truck has a bunch more acceleration right out of the stop sign. It will boost pretty quick, so let's not overdue it pretty please!

150% was the lowest setting and I think its perfect the way it is. Mark me a satisfied customer!

Now about the new visitor, the engine ticking under acceleration. I have an appointment tomorrow morning at a nearby diesel performance shop. I'll let them put it through the diagnostics scan to see if anything is going on. I sort of doubt it, but I think I'll opt for a professional fuel injector cleaning at a minimum.

More than anything else, I want to just make sure I am not about to have to spend a chunk of change I wasn't expecting. Later on when it's warmer, I'm going to do that painting I spoke of earlier and I want to put a new interior in the truck to update it. I also plan on a new interior in the Burb as well...

[JR]

I think my older tune had that in it, seemed to jump a little better.

Injector cleaning is really easy, just check youtube!

[KensAuto]

Only under acceleration sounds more like an exhaust leak.

Those numbers aren't crazy, but could still be an injector knock also... same as "Spark knock". It's the same issue... fuel lighting off before it's supposed to.
Typewriter tick doesn't just happen on acceleration and usually happens right after a fresh oil change.

[Bigdave_185]

Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?


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[rpar86]

I put a Banks Pedal Commander on my truck a few months back and it really does make a nice difference in acceleration from a stop.

[Flyin6]

Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?


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Dye/paint is not sticking everywhere. Creases are flaking it off, so I'm going to do it right

[Bigdave_185]

Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?


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Dye/paint is not sticking everywhere. Creases are flaking it off, so I'm going to do it right

What’s that all gonna involve ? Ya doing new leather?


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[Flyin6]

Ya, it's easy. Just spec out new leather seats for that year from LS Seats.com. You have to decide on color/colors, stitching and even how much leather. No seats are 100% leather. THe sides need to be vinyl because leather sides would stretch causing a poor fit down the road. Anyway, decide, write the check, and it all shows up. You can install it yourself or take it to a shop and let them do it.
While it's apart I think I'll add some sound deadener and replace anything I don't like. I am just going to drive this thing forever so might as well keep it nice

[Flyin6]

So, today I went over to Max Rail Diesel for a diagnosis. The guy there was really digging. The scanner didn't show anything wrong at all. Injectors are good, really good, actually. All systems were perfect. He crawled onto the motor and had me brake torque it, but you could hardly hear anything wrong. He finally said he felt a hole in the turbo hot pipe, so that was that.
I went home and checked it out. The hot pipe was resting on the hydro-boost brake booster. That was transferring a lot of engine noises to my Mark-1 ears. The problem was that the thing was shoved aft into the brake booster, so I removed it.
First of all, there was no  hole in it, only in the abrasion rubber patches I built up there to act as an anti-chaff barrier. Well, it worked! I peeled all that off and behold there was no damage to the pipe. So I shortened the Intercooler and mid pipe boots and reassembled everything. I now have 3/4" clearance, almost no engine noise and ready to get back out there and try it all again.

[Bigdave_185]

Pull the motor ad put it in the burb, sell the parts left over, buy a new powerstroke.


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[Flyin6]

Pull the motor ad put it in the burb, sell the parts left over, buy a new powerstroke.


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You're fired

[Flyin6]

Time to clean the fuel injectors

I believe I have one ticking fairly loudly under boost. Sounds to be on the drivers side and its noticeable.

I've looked everywhere for the AC-Delco X66-P stuff, but it is no where to be found. I planned to do the disconnect of the fuel lines and idle through 1/2 gal of diesel, but now that I can not find that stuff, what else do folks use to do this specific procedure?

Another thing, who uses 2-stroke oil in their fuel to lube the injectors? What's the correct mixture?

[JR]

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-88861803-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B00BK7LR36/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1FTDLYPBCJLCE&keywords=gm+injector+cleaner&qid=1650851658&s=automotive&sprefix=gm+injector+cleanor%2Cautomotive%2C140&sr=1-3

I use wally 2 stroke, pint per 25 gallon and I think we filter about the same.

[Flyin6]

JR-I found that link earlier.
Did you notice the price?
$185!!!!!!!!

Normal price is under $25

So, there must be a shortage and some people are taking advantage of we the people

[JR]

Ouch, obviously no.

[Flyin6]

So, with no additional input, I started experimenting.
I have long known that automatic transmission fluid makes for excellent diesel fuel and I personally know folks who use it regularly.
Then I came across a diesel mechanic who services many an oil burner. When changing fuel filters on customers vehicles, he will fill them up with trans fluid first, then pour the rest of the bottle (quart) into the fuel tank. He cites one customer he has serviced well beyond 400K that he started when it had 90K.
So, I decided to do some experimenting
To start with I pulled and drained both fuel filters from the truck and refilled them with dex-3 and fired up the engine.
There is no question at all. My motor wend dead smooth, like smoother than I have ever heard it before.
Now, that filter thing took a full quart since I use a larger CAT filter. So I poured another quart into the fuel tank and went for a drive.
I couldn't tell if it made any more power, who could with a 9,000 lb truck????????
But I will say that the clacking lifter sound diminished over about 20 miles, but remained. I wouldn't know how to explain what it sounds like, but I'd attempt by saying the clack sounds "more refined"  Almost like the part was fitted together to clack in that manner.
The thing still emits the tick/clack sound under boost and is directly related to engine RPM.
Next step:
Next I added a small bottle of marvel mystery oil with the thought of really going after a lubrication related issue, After a drive I cannot say there was any change at all.
Next up, in goes a full bottle of Diesel-Kleen followed by a 10 mile drive. The bottle treats 50 gallons and I had about 55 gallons in the tank.
Whoa, the thing got over 100 MPG and had flames blowing out of the tailpipe! I set seven miles of Kentucky farmland ablaze, but other than that, didn't notice anything.
When they get the fires under control, I'll find some unscorched earth, maybe a hippy commune to drive around to rack up some more mileage.
^^^Some of the above is true^^^^^^^^^^^

[KensAuto]

Hope I'm not too late... Did you eliminate the cp4 and convert to cp3? I don't remember.
I wouldn't use home remedies on an LML personally. I've been using optilube since truck was new but not sure if it would work fast enough for your issue.
I'd save trans fluid and similar for mechanical injection only.

[KensAuto]

Well I'm too slow... missed your last post by a few minutes.

[Flyin6]

Hope I'm not too late... Did you eliminate the cp4 and convert to cp3? I don't remember.
I wouldn't use home remedies on an LML personally. I've been using optilube since truck was new but not sure if it would work fast enough for your issue.
I'd save trans fluid and similar for mechanical injection only.

Ya, its had a CP3 on it for years

[JR]

Ken, I tried the "good stuff" a couple times, never noticed a thing. I run 2 stroke and have run 10% soy also and bio when I can get it. I do think it runs smoother on the bio fuel all else being the same.

[Flyin6]

Not 100% sure, but I want to say it runs smoother now after the second test drive

Maybe I'll put some peach schnapps I've had for too long in the cupboard in there next...

[Sammconn]

Not 100% sure, but I want to say it runs smoother now after the second test drive

Maybe I'll put some peach schnapps I've had for too long in the cupboard in there next...

Just don’t light a match with the concoction you’ve got brewed up. Lol.

[Bigdave_185]

I say light a match just make sure the boy is getting it on video for the YouTube


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[TexasRedNeck]

How To: DIY - Injector cleaning
 https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=90745&share_tid=83493&url=https://www.duramaxforum.com/index.php?threads/How-To%3A-DIY---Injector-cleaning.83493/&share_type=t&link_source=app

GM stuff has been DCd so there is a BMW substitute but your ‘Mercian truck might start sprechen se Dutch


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[Flyin6]

How To: DIY - Injector cleaning
 https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=90745&share_tid=83493&url=https://www.duramaxforum.com/index.php?threads/How-To%3A-DIY---Injector-cleaning.83493/&share_type=t&link_source=app

GM stuff has been DCd so there is a BMW substitute but your ‘Mercian truck might start sprechen se Dutch


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Well, that explains why I kept seeing that BMW stuff popping up!

[Flyin6]

I took the truck to Zack, the local wizard diesel mechanic.
It took him three minutes and he found an exhaust leak!
The rear driver's side manifold is leaking at the head.
I didn't want to fuss with it, so I scheduled him to put new gaskets in it on the 30th

I'm so relieved!

[JR]

Aftermarket manifolds you put on, right?

[Flyin6]

Aftermarket manifolds you put on, right?

Yes
I had to routinely tighten bolts. Had some fall out. I haven't looked over them for some time...I suppose this is the price

[Sammconn]

Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?

[Flyin6]

Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?

PPE
I installed the allen head bolts they supplied, but a third of them came out in the 10 years those manifolds have been on that engine

[JR]

Use any type of paste on them? Seems funny the stocks stay fine but these came out.

[Sammconn]

Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?

PPE
I installed the allen head bolts they supplied, but a third of them came out in the 10 years those manifolds have been on that engine

Oh boy… I’ll need to keep en eye on them then.
That’s what I used as well.

[Flyin6]

Talking to the mechanic, he said he will coat both sides of new gasket with RTV black (I think he said RTV). He says he does this on every job. He said the gasket will hold forever by doing that.
When I talked to him about injectors, he pointed out that he has never, not even once replaced an LML injector. His D-Max has hundreds of thousands of miles. One thing he does and recommends is to add a bottle of auto trans fluid to every fillip. He claims he has on his truck since new.
I'm going to continue doing that on mine.

[Flyin6]

Alrighty, I am beginning to experiment with running this engine on WMO. I'll start a new thread and just make observations as I get further into this process. I believe the changing times demands it

[Flyin6]

The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!

So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck

So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.

It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.

Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.

The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.

The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.

I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.

Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.

When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...

The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.

The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.

I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.

[Bigdave_185]

Where are your tires rubbing?

Can you post a photo of the dash cracked areas? Curiosity on why gm is having dash panels crack?

Did you not have a dash mat in there?


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[JR]

All plastic dash panels crack. Thats why we run covers (or I do) I dropped the $$ for a new dash on the Sub, but got a cover too.

I like the 35 Don, another OD gear would be nice but towing is great and never rubs. Don't even think about it now.

My drivers seat bottom just started to rip. I need to find the new bottom I have for it, foam seems great.

[DDS]

The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!

So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck

So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.

It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.

Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.

The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.

The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.

I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.

Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.

When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...

The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.

The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.

I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.

You'll be very pleased with Leatherseats.com. I ordered all new foam & leather seats from them for my C6 a few years ago. Pricey, but you get what you pay for.

[Flyin6]

Where are your tires rubbing?

Can you post a photo of the dash cracked areas? Curiosity on why gm is having dash panels crack?

Did you not have a dash mat in there?


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They hit the rear of the wheel well...And I did the mod some time ago. Either needs to get taller again (No) or get 35's (Likely permanent solution)

[Flyin6]

The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!

So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck

So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.

It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.

Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.

The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.

The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.

I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.

Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.

When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...

The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.

The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.

I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.

You'll be very pleased with Leatherseats.com. I ordered all new foam & leather seats from them for my C6 a few years ago. Pricey, but you get what you pay for.

Under $1200 for all the leather

[Sammconn]

I looked at factory replacement for mine, and fell over with the price.

Looking at this site,
I can get 100% leather and custom for only a few hundy more than the OEM would be.

Gonna cost me some money now but thanks for the motivation. Lol.

[Flyin6]

I looked at factory replacement for mine, and fell over with the price.

Looking at this site,
I can get 100% leather and custom for only a few hundy more than the OEM would be.

Gonna cost me some money now but thanks for the motivation. Lol.

My pleasure ;-)

[Flyin6]

Man, I spent hours today working on that driver's side exhaust manifold. I had forgotten all about how hard that one is to work on.

So, first the diagnostics. When I pulled the wheel well liner out, I still couldn't even see the manifold. So next I pulled the hot side intercooler piping out. Then it was still a bit of a jungle, and I could see the steering shaft was going to be in the way, so that came out next.

Having forgotten all about the misery of installing the performance manifolds and up-pipes, I was thinking I would be in there a couple hours.

No such luck. But after the steering shaft was partially removed, I could see a nice black patch on the cylinder head at the rear, so that confirmed the strange sound I was hearing was, indeed an exhaust leak.

I wrestled with that manifold and the up pipe bolts for a couple of hours, but eventually, it yielded.

The up-pipe gasket showed zero signs of leakage

The manifold gasket told the story. Although it was intact, the rear port was nearly black all the way around. The lower aft bolt was missing. The top aft bolt was very loose. The next two forward bolts were also loose, so I'll bet if I just tightened the bolts and installed one where the other one had fallen out, I would have very likely fixed it. But since the manifold was detached, and I had a new gasket, I was installing it for sure.

So, I glued the gasket to the manifold with some copper high temp RTV and allowed it to cure for about an hour. Then I reinstalled the manifold. I was fussing around trying to find some way of just feeling where that bolt fit in the lower rear hole when I looked at the up pipe. I remember I had a stud on the lower manifold to the up-pipe hole and use the standard 12 pt. special bolts in the other two. Well, guess what? The up pipe could not be pushed aft far enough to get it to slide over the stud. So around hour five of this debacle I had to pull the manifold off the truck a second time. And, yes, it was another major pita!

After installing a fresh gasket on the rear of the manifold, I slid it over the up pipe, then wrestled it back into place. I tightened all bolts except for that problematic aft lower bolt. I started around 1230 and finished around 2000. 7.5 hours of misery. I was greasy and black all over and it took a lot of scrubbing to get me back to normal.

I still have to somehow get that aft lower mani bolt in and tightened and everything else reassembled.

I'll bet it takes me half a day tomorrow, but on the upside, I will have fixed an annoying issue. This is the start of a bumper-to-bumper-fix everything effort that will conclude with a new interior and a third of the vehicle repainted.

[Flyin6]

I got that fixed. New gaskets and no pist-pist-pist sound from a leaky manifold.

That wasn't easy! Getting to a couple of those bolts was challenging

The wheel well was pretty oily, or greasy feeling. It turned out to be that cavity wax I had liberally sprayed in there last year. I soaked it with diesel and then hosed it all off, and now it's squeaky clean. When it dries, I'll recoat and spend some retying up and taping the web of wiring bundles draped everywhere.

This was a good start to the reconditioning of my trusty classic Chevy truck