Author Topic: M715.9 (Read 175607 times)

cj7ox · « **Reply #500 on:** August 08, 2016, 06:00:12 PM »

Looks good! Like the console...may have to come up with something like that on my Scout, once I get to where I can work on it again.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #501 on:** August 08, 2016, 07:55:30 PM »

I can hook you up with a decent scout console.. hahaha

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #502 on:** August 08, 2016, 08:02:18 PM »

what do you do with a perfectly good Reese trailer ball wrench?

..cut it in half. hahah
new transfer case shifter

and alittle engraving work. had to put the shift pattern somewhere..

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #503 on:** August 08, 2016, 10:17:11 PM »

nice touch

cj7ox · « **Reply #504 on:** August 09, 2016, 10:52:25 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on August 08, 2016, 10:17:11 PM

nice touch

x2!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #505 on:** August 09, 2016, 01:52:18 PM »

Quote from: swbhobie16 on August 07, 2016, 10:04:20 PM

got some work done on the truck this weekend

new 'black out' light.. hahah

That is

NOT

a Black out light ;-)

Creative!...Love it!

KensAuto · « **Reply #506 on:** August 09, 2016, 01:53:03 PM »

Looks pretty black from here! :P

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #507 on:** August 09, 2016, 02:46:17 PM »

I mean.. the back side is black?? :-[ hahah.

plus.. it's gonna get a red film over the lens to dull the bright white. make it alittle easier on the natural night vision too. the 40" light bar will get 50% window tint on it to kill the shiny silver backing but not diminish the brightness too badly..

AND.. we just moved it from the house garage to building. all on its own! the tcase shifter works fantastic as well. placement is great. shifts with ease. perfect clicks. now to install an indicator light in the dash and all is well (already tested the switch..)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #508 on:** August 09, 2016, 02:55:44 PM »

Love it!

cj7ox · « **Reply #509 on:** August 11, 2016, 04:02:01 PM »

Fantastic!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #510 on:** August 11, 2016, 09:40:51 PM »

this weekend/next week inner fenders will be notches to accept batteries (one on either side), prepped, painted and hung. might do quarters as well. I'd really like to pull the front off and replace the front crank seal and timing case seal again. I reused the crank seal and think I kinked it putting it back on last time. (my 1st gen one slipped right on and hasn't leaked a drop.. not so lucky with the PPump) and I only patched the timing case leak with RTV for testing purposes, so I'd love to fix it finally. drain and refill with anti freeze before the winter.. etc.

with front inner fenders and quarters on, fans can be wired with adjustable relay and headlights as well. along with running lights to the front.

bed will be line x'd soon, which means it can be bolted down and have lights run rearward (running and tails) so it's almost down to wiring at this point. need to make sure the solenoid I have is indeed a latching one and not a starting solenoid.. then I'll be on the clear. will have a part number to be run tomorrow.

can't wait to have the bed and can reunited after almost a year!! pics will be coming soon.. I promise. hahah

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #511 on:** August 14, 2016, 05:43:48 PM »

driver side battery tray. there will be an identical one on the passenger side as well.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #512 on:** August 15, 2016, 11:59:08 AM »

exhuast shield: 5" ceramic coated stainless steel tube with a cap on the top. going to run the 4" pipe up to maybe 6-10" from the top to keep it from flowing out of the lower holes..

sits just inside the fender flare. the tires will sit ~1" outside the flare with 2" spacers (hummer rims have lots of positive backspacing..)

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #513 on:** August 15, 2016, 12:00:59 PM »

and the passenger side battery tray. still needs to be welded in place but that should all come together this week

JR · « **Reply #514 on:** August 16, 2016, 01:15:57 AM »

Is the wood for sound deadening??? 8)

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #515 on:** August 28, 2016, 07:42:42 AM »

of course it's for sound deadening. hahah

disassembly stuff.. just cause. hahah. but really.. has to replace the timing cover gasket.. and since I was in there, replaced front crank seal

the speedy sleeve is the ticket..

and done..

well.. now that it's done. we can continue putting the front together. my dad got the battery tray/inner fenders welded, seam sealed and painted. so hopefully it'll start falling back together soon

JR · « **Reply #516 on:** August 28, 2016, 12:25:16 PM »

I don't see the killer the killer dowel pin fix on there. Did you do that?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #517 on:** August 28, 2016, 12:44:44 PM »

there wasn't a KDP present..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #518 on:** August 28, 2016, 12:53:27 PM »

I seem to be having some difficulty with the latching solenoid. it's working, but i can't seem understand why. (I know that sounds dense.. hahah)

i have battery in/battery out correctly. and 12 volts to the S terminal. but.. it didn't work that way. I had to ground the I terminal to make it close. and now that it does.. it seems to be warming up. too much. and all it seems to be running is the gauge cluster at the moment. no fans, lights etc.

it's a BWD S5052 if that means anything to anyone.

can't seem to find a solid diagram on how it's supposed to be wired.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #519 on:** August 28, 2016, 02:11:54 PM »

current (hahah.. get it) situation

left large red wire to large lug: from starter/battery
left small red wire from large lug: 12V to switch
bottom small red wire: S terminal/other side of 12V switch
right large red wire from large lug: to fuse block
top small black wire from I terminal to ground
left small black wire going through firewall: fuse block ground

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #520 on:** August 28, 2016, 02:43:02 PM »

well.. according to Murphy's law (or whose ever it is that says once you buy/say something you either A: find the original part or B: find the bit of info you were missing)

apparently I have it right. just wondering about the temp it got to. I could put my had one it so it was scalding.. but it was warmer than I was expecting I guess is what I'm getting at..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #521 on:** August 29, 2016, 08:40:35 PM »

alittle bit of progress today. the front end it mostly back together. both passenger and driver inner fenders and quarters are on. as well as the hood hinges.

real tailgate has been cut in to..

these are halo stop/turn/tail lights just like my first gen cummins. with 3 LED white reverse lights

once the intercooler secured in place, the front facia will go on and then the all important grill. hahah. I'm waiting on most of the body to be together before I start wiring the headlights and tail lights so I know what/where I can go with runs

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #522 on:** August 31, 2016, 08:17:36 PM »

progress!!

JR · « **Reply #523 on:** August 31, 2016, 09:12:17 PM »

And nice progress it is!!

stlaser · « **Reply #524 on:** August 31, 2016, 09:40:11 PM »

Nice!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #525 on:** September 01, 2016, 08:45:13 PM »

That grill just makes that front end.

Sammconn · « **Reply #526 on:** September 01, 2016, 09:27:24 PM »

Yes that is awesome.
Looks great!

KensAuto · « **Reply #527 on:** September 01, 2016, 10:49:39 PM »

Very cool sir.

I remember this solenoid conversation from before...I think you still need something like this:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/77025/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhN-6BRCJsePgxru9iIwBEiQAI8rq8xLP5jZlUTkoFnRrPikjyn2GL3gQeHTs7pwZZdAYipkaArVU8P8HAQ

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #528 on:** September 02, 2016, 07:50:28 AM »

thanks all.

and I agree with you on the solenoid Ken. I'll most likely get one ordered in the near future. about to head to NYC for a few weeks for work. so the 715 will have do wait a bit for some more parts :/

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #529 on:** October 09, 2016, 08:47:45 PM »

stuff has been happening.. i've just been lazy on the updates (and my phone keeps telling me that it's full. silly little thing. hahah

top it getting there (more pics to come on it)

also, the bed and body are reuniting.. after nearly a year!

and DONE!!

fully line-x'd bed, tool holders and top (for insulation.. both sound and thermal)

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #530 on:** October 09, 2016, 08:56:18 PM »

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #531 on:** October 09, 2016, 09:16:06 PM »

breather

set of deep cell opimas we picked up used for $92.. total 8)

and.. here is the exhaust shield. i'll work on adjusting the storage i have to get all the pics on here. it's getting down to the short rows now.. just need to wrap it up. can't wait!!
http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/F40C49C8-6E13-4769-81BE-9CD0471A8E81.mp4.html

also.. after the exhaust was on and diverted further south, i was able to hear the engine cleanly. and i always noticed a funky thumping sound.. but couldn't place it bc the exhaust was right there. but it sounded and felt like it was coming from the oil pan. sure enough.. pulled it off (to change the gasket as well) and there was a knick-ish in the pan from the 2nd cylinder connecting rod cap. the pan was pushed in alittle causing it. so.. put a sand bag under it and knocked it back out with a dead blow, put it back on and fired it up. all the difference in the world. there was some slightly unsettling stuff in the pan.. but it runs so good to be anything major. it was copper ish stuff. but it could be from a rebuild or something (caps were marked 1-6) im not going to worry about it at the moment since it seems to be just fine otherwise. oil pressure it good. doesn't knock (hahaha) but sounds normal. for a 12 valve. 2 of the rod caps had alittle.. and i mean a little.. front to back.. movement. i just can't believe that it's something bad with how it runs. some of it could have been from the gouge in the oil pan.. but the copper is the only thing that really concerned me. we shall see i suppose

any and all input will be appreciated.. as always

JR · « **Reply #532 on:** October 09, 2016, 10:04:27 PM »

I love the stack and you were smiling more than the kid. Wait, you are the kid!!

Could you get a feeler gauge between the rods?

Maybe send out the oil to see what it really is??

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #533 on:** October 09, 2016, 10:21:07 PM »

that's my dad and his grandson/my nephew. hahah. i didn't try to get a feeler between it. but it definitely wasn't much. there were 4sq/ft of dripping oil on me.. so i was just feeling it all without trying to look directly into oncoming oil. hahah.

i would love to change the oil and send out the oil for testing. but don't even know where to start. it's hard for me to think that it's major.. just bc of how it runs. maybe it'll blow apart tomorrow.. but i highly doubt it. hahah.

what i really want to do is to get another oil pan ($116 from cummins) and have a bung welded to the back of it so i can put a quick drain/lock on it AND get all the oil out of it as well. cummins pans won't let you get the last 3/4" out of the bottom (which i'm thinking might be the cause of the copper in it.. maybe from the oil pickup tube that back drained after new caps..? i really don't know.) so with the back oil bung.. it protects tre quick drain and lets me get it all out.

we shall see soon i'm hoping. i always like changing the oil. hahah

JR · « **Reply #534 on:** October 09, 2016, 11:06:37 PM »

Still bet you were smiling big,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Just $120 huh? Mine is flattened on the bottom from sitting there. Think they would have used wood to the block base, it is so easy!!

I too like getting ALL the oil out, that sounds like a plan.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #535 on:** October 10, 2016, 06:19:24 AM »

yes sir. i called the local cummins place and they quoted me $116 for the pan and another $16 for another gasket. not terrible i didn't think. i'll have the new bung welded to the back so that the quick drain will be protected and not hanging straight down. and the thought was to have it completely done on a new pan, cleaned and painted before we pulled the old one off.. so it would just be a swap and not have to do all that to the old one

stlaser · « **Reply #536 on:** October 10, 2016, 10:03:05 AM »

Coming together......... nice!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #537 on:** October 12, 2016, 10:30:24 AM »

I really like this build!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #538 on:** October 12, 2016, 08:14:57 PM »

glad i have SDs approval. however.. i think hes getting jealous and wondering why the M715.9 is running and moving around and hes not. just sayin.. hahaha

JR · « **Reply #539 on:** October 12, 2016, 11:50:31 PM »

I think he is busy with turkeys,,,,,,,,,,,,

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #540 on:** October 16, 2016, 01:22:43 PM »

exhaust shield in place. spaced off correctly to have it plumb.

one optima temporarily hooked up to see how it would do. fired right up the first time. snagged some 2/0 cable from a jobsite to custom cut/make the cables. they'll be paralleled and each having a jumper coming off to cam lok lugs on the front just inboard of the headlights (won't have to open the hood to jump or be jumped)

JR · « **Reply #541 on:** October 16, 2016, 04:35:33 PM »

I am jealous for sure. Maybe a little heat shrink on the cables?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #542 on:** October 16, 2016, 07:13:23 PM »

Quote from: JR on October 16, 2016, 04:35:33 PM

I am jealous for sure. Maybe a little heat shrink on the cables?

ohh yea.. these are just the ones we had around the house. i'll make some correct length cables to run across to the pass side/jumpers to the cam loks and all will be heat shrinked.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #543 on:** October 16, 2016, 08:07:21 PM »

How much did you pay for them batteries. I asked on Friday and they said I'd be $ 189 for the red tops

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #544 on:** October 16, 2016, 08:49:12 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on October 16, 2016, 08:07:21 PM

How much did you pay for them batteries. I asked on Friday and they said I'd be $ 189 for the red tops

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

don't shoot me.. $92 total. :o

street side auto has red tops for $147 with free shipping

JR · « **Reply #545 on:** October 16, 2016, 09:54:03 PM »

Thats good, summit has em for 156 with FS, but sometimes you find a coupon.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #546 on:** October 19, 2016, 01:57:45 PM »

dual battery setup

and alternator wired. sitting just at 14 volts. metering 14.15V at the batteries

and poll time. where to put the emblem (not in finalizes locations.. just areas. i'm thinking about having an 'M715.9' CNC out of 11 gauge metal in old school jeep font. it would go behind the fender/in front of the door. (if the emblem doesn't go there)

and alittle walk around.. just for fun hahah
http://s620.photobucket.com/user/swbhobie16/media/B24440FB-1F77-42DB-9365-D8175C65A415.mp4.html

stlaser · « **Reply #547 on:** October 19, 2016, 02:27:13 PM »

You probably stated already but what size tires are going to fill up those fender wells again?

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #548 on:** October 19, 2016, 03:02:22 PM »

Looks and sounds amazing!

JR · « **Reply #549 on:** October 19, 2016, 03:42:07 PM »

Up front, be different.